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When they say "the AC just needs a recharge". This tells me that, as well as other things about their car, they don't know are broken or don't care to fix them.
One of my biggest red flags are phrases like “my baby” “my pride and joy”. 9 times out of 10 it’s a car that’s been beaten on and poorly maintained and the seller is trying to wring as much sentimental value out of it as possible.
Or maybe just maybe they loved there car and took Great care of it and yes sometimes drove it hard because it's meant to be driven... just a thought...
@@gamingeuphoria7928 Yeah, these red flags aren't meant to be taken as the be all end all for buying a car. Just something that should put you on your toes. No one's saying you should always disregard someone if they call the car they're selling their "baby"
I fell for that one in high school when I bought my fc. Mf told me needs a diff swap and he gave me a spare diff. Opened the diff up after buying it to find out it was blown to pieces.
@@EX7RUD1CON shit I bought a is a month ago haven’t been able to drive it because it’s overheating and people I call and describe it to can’t figure it out. If I end up having to buy a new motor so be it it’s only 1000$
@@Mozetty odds are the motor is done for if it’s constantly overheating. Try changing the thermostat and radiator to see if that resolves the issue, but if it doesn’t then that means that the motor is done for and would most likely need the heads to be redone or just a complete motor swap. I know this because I had to learn the hard way when my 2003 Acura 3.2tl type S would always overheat to the red line everyday after 30 minutes of driving it. Even after changing two temperature sensors, the thermostat 4 times, the radiator twice, the hoses, and even the radiator cap. I tried everything before it came down to buying a new motor, now it never overheats after flooring it countless times because the old motor had its block messed up after ir overheat countless times. Oddly enemigo the head gasket never gave out on the old motor too, so it was a weird car to drive for a while.
@@emanuelaragon6203 im getting the thermostat changed in the morning, and the previous owner changed the thermostat with receipts of it and game me the old radiator but if its not just the thermostat or one of the temp readers ill get a motor
A big red flag for me is when the clock on a car is in a default - -:- - zero position like that as they unplugged the battery to try and clear any messages or it has a battery drain issue where they leave it disconnected or where they haven’t driven it because of a underlying issue and had to jump start it. It’s a big one on 2000s volvos because the clock is super easy to set so if they didn’t even take the effort to set the time after it’s been disconnected or jumped from a dead battery then who knows what else is wrong. Also a super clean engine bay on an older car that you know was scrubbed hard. Often times it was to hide a leak or something. When checking on a car on person and the engine is hot before you get there then often times they could be trying to hide a cold start issue. Always ask to have it be cold so you can check the cold start.
@@SiFuNatice well on some cars it’s in the middle of the gauge cluster. I can understand leaving the one that’s located on the canter vent area but it would bother me a bunch to not have it set if it’s in my view all the time in the gauge cluster
@@rex_s80 yea mines on dash, but i understand you. For me its opposite, i hate seeing clock and time changing so i just let it be. Once mechanic disconected battery and after returning it he returned clock aswell. I had to ask him nicely to remove battery again so i dont have clock :D
@@SiFuNatice lol I gotcha. People have their own preferences but I see a bunch of volvos that you can tell have issues with the clock on zero and it’s just a big red flag for those because people try to clear lights using that but when they take a picture of the dash they will have the orange or red triangle saying there is an error but done show the side parts where it shows the check engine light or messages. So at least on those cars it’s a big red flag.
@@rex_s80 Yea i mean what you said can indicate about issues with cars i agree 100%. No idea why i commented anyway i do it rarely but thanks for convo
Definitely the biggest red flag is how the owner talks. If you do a little research before buying a car and you ask them questions about the car and the most common answer they say is "I don't know" then you don't even gotta look at the car.
Hey... that may be a lot of us, but not all of us, some of us still need a car to get us to work and cant afford for the car to fail so it is maintained properly
Not a red flag but more of a general rule: Never fall in love with a car until you own it. It will most likely hurt either your wallet or your ego or both A LOT when you let your emotions drive you to buy a car that you are just looking at.
@@eurosonly when they call people with cash in hand "joy riders" when in reality to them cash in hand means you are buying it no matter what. People r sooo dumb
@@eurosonly despite the Previous owner of my saturn ion redline supercharged not letting me go WOT i still bought the car. But soon found out the reason for no WOT driving was because of failing timing chain assembly parts. She still drove mostly fine and went 9 months knowing it had issues before i got the whole assembly fixed. Luckily it never jumped timing and shes been doing great otherwise for a 14 year old tuner car
@@wanderbread4217 for me, when i tell someone cadh in hand it means im very interested, but that the amount of cash leaving my hand to go to theirs depends on the condition and test drive once i see it. Just cuz i show up with 2k doesnt mean im spending 2k
@@barthalemewnut7809 as someone who is both married and has kids, yeah, but it's not sudden lmao you got 9 months to organise more appropriate transport, and if you only got married why would that make you need to get a shit fucking SUV or something
I bought a heavily modded ap1 s2000. It has ap2 motor and trans. Buddy club coilovers Berk 3" exhaust with test pipe and tuned on an aem ecu. Stern mags with a bit of camber in front and rear. Zero receipts but I was able to drive it before making a decision but kind of fell in love with the burble tune on it and the way it handled. I bought the car and is still running super healthy to this day. I had to take care of a couple leaks (vtec solenoid, tct) and the car is still running super strong. Guess I got lucky!
Oil. Leaks, flakes, shavings, shimmer and how black it is. A little burning or leaking is normal on most older cars, but an excessive amount is a sign of issues. Oil is the easiest way for anyone to get a decent idea of the health of the motor if you know nothing else about cars. It can also be a red flag if the oil is too clean, that’s a potential seller hiding something.
Old school muscle buyers. Do research on the car. Check all the panels and if there are any patches check to see if they’re from the right model year. I’ve seen ‘70 Duster’s ‘74 body panels. Check that or ask the owner
"Lady driven/Grandma Driven/Grandparents car." Usually means that the owner was absolutely shit and they are trying to sell their car using boomer selling tactics
One of the things I got got with when I bought my Mk7 GTI was title washing. One good way to check for it is to see if the car still has its manufacturer stickers on the inside of the doors, the hood, and the trunk lid/hatch.
I live in Illinois and nothing frustrates me more than when I’m going to go look at a car that was made before the 2000s just to find a giant rust hole in the car they avoided telling me
One time I went to look at a 2001 Subaru Legacy, and there was no oil on the dipstick. Everything else looked, and sounded fine, and it ran/drove fine. But the moment I saw no oil I ran for my life.
Its hard to say Alex I bought a 94 300zx 92,000miles on it because it looked cool and the seller told me it just needed a timing belt. I spent over 2yrs trying to get it right and took it to a mechanic to let him try it in the end the car never ran the same before I sold it. Overall I think its just a challenging platform to work on and its not for everyone seller didn't mention it needed suspension and new trim as well. I luckily was able to break even and sell the car for what I bought it for plus the money I put into it because of the inflated used car market right now
Red flag would be when the owner list on the description a c5 corvette and says “ oh I know what I got it’s a 1-400 from the factory with these options “ or when they say not joyrides
For anyone wanting to buy a Subie with an EJ engine. If there any mods make sure it got a tune by a reputable tuner. Even if it’s only an intake. While the car is on open the oil cap and check for white smoke coming out. If you see white smoke run. Head gaskets are obviously notorious on EJs and no matter how much people tell you “iTs OnLy A pRoBlEm On Na EnGiNeS”, its not. It’s hard to know when a hg is out on a subie because the car will feel perfectly fine. Highly likely that you wont see any coolant in the oil or any of the typical head gasket signs. The way to check is go WOT and then right away check the coolant reservoir. If it is bubbling, looks foamy, and/or is overflowing the hg is out. Sure, it can be air in the system but chances are the seller already replaced the coolant, thermostat, did a coolant pressure test, and who knows what else. It’s the head gaskets. When the hg blows on the perfect stock well maintained subie you got, get some ARP head studs. The stock ones fail even at stock levels it’s fucking stupid. Ask me how i know. If you want to make decent power and more reliability get an FA subie. With e60, fuel pump, and a good tune you’ll easily make an extra 100awhp. Can’t get that from an EJ. Subies with the EJ engine are fun cars, but unfortunately it’s not the best platform for performance. I got my 2012 wrx last year and a month later the hg went out. Completely stock. Rebuilt and added some supporting mods for future power mods i had planned. I went stage 1 then stage 2 and all was well. 2 months ago I went stage 3+ E85. Making some fun power, but once again hg. I learned my mistake and i didn’t get the best of tunes when I knew I should’ve. Am i giving up on the car? Fuck no, I have an IAG block sitting in my garage right now ready to be put inside my subie. This has been a dream car of mine since I was 12 so my emotions blind my judgment but I sure don’t care. It brings me happiness. So if you get a subie just make sure you also get an extra engine while you’re at it.
appreciate this advice I've got an 04 wrx, not really chasing power, it was already somewhat heavily modded when I got it. But it was 3800$, so a new motor really isn't that big Big concern is just trying to not need a motor as I'm trying to not spend all my money on this car. Ya got any ideas for what this returning misfire code could be? I'll run you some details real quick, It's only in cylinder 4, I've done plugs, coils, checked for vacuum leaks, nailed down a pretty reliable tune, determined if it was a hg issue or not, it's not. Even your test methods from above, it passes those. I'm thinking it's a wiring harness or fuel injector issue now. If not that, maybe the cylinder is cracked or something that causes it to lose compression. If it's that, I'm getting a new long block but I do want the internals out this motor.
@@Tachyon836 what mods are on the car currently? Who is it tuned by? To rule out the injector just swap it out for the one on Cyl 2. If the problem moves over to Cyl 2 then you found your problem. Have you performed a compression test? A leak down test would tell you more about the condition of your engine. But if anything is cracked you should see lower compression on Cyl 4. What spark plugs did you use and what did you gap them too? Any specific reason you want to keep the internals instead of just picking up another engine? If you’re not chasing power then a stock motor with ARP head studs, catback exhaust, downpipe, if you want the cool noises an intake, and a good pro tune and you’ll have a pretty reliable car tbh. I wouldn’t keep the internals out of that block unless they were forged.
@@mr2loverboy So the official mod list is unknown, previous owner claimed it was a built motor that had been swapped in at one point. Only mods I can tell are, K&N air filter, straight pipe w/ cat delete, cobb accessport, and a mishimoto radiator and hoses The motor MIGHT actually be built, I've owned it for a few months now and it is able to put down power that I'm just not sure a stock WRX motor would be happy with. I've hit 18 psi and minus the issue of the vacuum leaks I've had to fix, it handles it beautifully. You asked what spark plugs I used, I used NGK Premium Iridium plugs, they were pre gapped 0.30" I think. It was pre gapped out the box to whatever specification NGK had. Could that cause a misfire? Haven't done a compression/leak test yet, need to have that done next. I work at a firestone, but frankly we're backed up to all hell that there isn't anyway I'm gonna have time to bring my car in. I definitely need to do that. The name of the place that did the tuning is called Boosted Performance Tuning.
@@Tachyon836 yeah incorrectly gapped plugs can cause a misfire. It’s worth checking sometimes they don’t all come pre gapped correctly and should be checked before installing them. Are you having any oil consumption?
Seller (16 yo kid) posted his car at a decently lower price with Low miles. States that ‘car runs fine with no issues’. Sent me a list of mods. Agreed on viewing and I flew down to visit him (it’s an 8 hour drive). When I visited the car, his dad drove it. Told me ‘the ignition switch is iffy’. Car was missing the factory strut bar and beauty cover, and reverse gear doesn’t stick sometimes. Barely drove WOT, didn’t allow me to drive because ‘his insurance is still under mine’. Worst part? There was no damn AC. Was not too pleased when the ad said no issues with car. Dad told me ‘the son drives this car on the weekends at night, windows down’. ‘Car enthusiasts don’t need AC due to the load on the engine’. Immediately walked away and rented a car to drive home. I should have noticed the biggest red flag was when the kid couldn’t pronounce ‘eibach’ and didn’t know what brand it was. Said ‘I am not interested in any negotiations, and 15 people have already texted me regarding the car, one person offered 16k cash’ Can’t believe someone would sell a car without AC without staying on the ad. This is wrong.
Oh God did this hit home. So last year I went from homeless to semi homeless. Trying to take care of my family that became homeless too. Sold my 93 Suburban and 03 Jetta to buy a 04 Scion xB. Everything looked good, took it around the block. Great car. Project car but working for 2.5k. Head was blown and they'd just patched it up for the sale. They vanished of course and I was left going through the whole cooling system praying it was something easy. It wasn't. So I was left with a complete loss on the car with nothing to drive and no money.
First cars should be as close to stock as you can get barring teenagers with mechanical families. They can often save a car. But as "my very first car" avoid mods you didn't do or pay to have done.
My favorite is just need a family car now. I saw a STI hatchback marketplace with car seats in the back. Checked his Facebook profile was a 22 year old in college with no kids. Staged the photos with car seats bc he "needs a family car"
My car journey started when the previous owner said it just has a exhaust leak and needs a AC recharge needless to say cars been sitting for about a year and has a flat and failed clear coat 😂😂
the age of a car as well. you cant fix a car you cant find parts for. I've got an 87 Fiero and most part suppliers at garages don't carry parts for them anymore. if anything breaks i have to supply my own parts to be fitted which takes time to be delivered then over to the garage to be put on so its this big hassle whenever anything goes wrong.
Just needs "fill in the blank" because almost every time it needs more. Oh and I saw a kid put windshield washer fluid in a coolant resevoir. Then when I asked about it he got mad and asked me if I was going to buy it or not.
Red flag when the buyer thinks they are buying a new car when buying a project car. Research research research and buy knowing you'll eventually have to do maintenance and other stuff.
I'm gonna buy a Subaru Impreza for 5k CAD (about 4k USD), can I get y'all's thoughts Mileage 70000km / 44000 mi No mods done to it, good service record, no secrets to really worry about . So what do you think. Also I'm from Canada so that AWD comes in handy
*the biggest red flag I could think off would defintly be when a car looks to pristine on the out-/inside and the owner recommends to not test drive.* I never had that happen to me, I don't own a car and driver license for long but I'm sure there are people who blindly bought their cars without test driving them first. Because the owner said it worked fine. Also here's another tip based on experince of some of my friends and others I heard. Check every dang function in a car if it works, most importantly check the lights, check the brakes, check air and tire profiles, check the coils, check for the existence of airbags and security features such as ABS, ESP, ASR seat belts working important one! Check for fluids, check for energy, check every damn button on the dashboard/infotainment system check the climatronic/climate controls check for lights in the driver dashboard kinda obvious but people tend to ignore warning signals. Because otherwise you'll regret it. That's your money, time and value being on the line. Check the service history inside the manual- glovebox of the car. Check the owner history if it checks out as said in the video. Here's a tip if you're purchasing a car keep a neutral guideance with you someone you can trust or preferably who has knowledge with cars and the technical side in general. This might be a friend or a buddy of a buddy with deep technical mad skillZ, just pick yours wisely I luckily had my older brother with me who knows the ins and outs of his cars and regularly helps other troubleshoot issues with theres also he's one of the founders of the car crew that I'm with double win. Pretty much a non-brainer at that point. Here's someone I would not wanna take on the ride of buying a car for me, someone who previously had bad decisions on his record regarding cars having big project cars which are not finished yet. OK let me explain that, I'm talking about someone so dang sure saying as a negative example hey this car just needs a tune, someone who already bought the cars with flaws but still paid to much for it and didn't bother trading with the owner. Someone who tries and promote a certain type or brand of car to you. Someone who might say has knowledge but knows jack' shit about the actual technology or type of car you wanna buy for example you might wanna own a RWD car though the person that helps you has only ever had FWD cars.
Pretty much well summed up. My first car, a Honda Civic, was a blind buy. The funny thing is, my dad, who´s a really good mechanic, was with me at the time, but for some reason, he didn´t check anything. Only if it starts and runs and if the AC works. No test drive, no nothing. Now, that I know so much more about cars, I asked him what that was about, but even he couldn´t give me an answer. Weird story for sure
sometimes its a girlfriend that bought a car for their now ex boyfriend and they really dont know sht about the car but i agree with you that is 90% of the time
A big one is if they keep repeating the same few things that they "replaced". Like really trying to hammer it home that they JUST did a full maint check on the vehicle and everything is sound, but they can't exactly name the specific parts that they changed/replaced besides easy things like Spark Plugs and wires and belts.. I unfortunately fell for the "you can do anything you want to it!". It's basically their subconscious coming out and telling you there's gonna be a lot of work to make it nice. Basically, I bought a neglected 95 Civic 4dr. O2 was unplugged so the engine would run rich enough to produce a pop in 1st/2nd. Oil and clutch fluid had not been changed in who knows how long, the Spark Plugs were fried, and it leaked oil on the INSIDE. The mechanic that fixed everything told me it actually upset him to see the condition of the vehicle, as it was very apparent that the previous owner basically polished a turd. The plates it came with turned out to not even belong to a current registered vehicle. So far about $1500 in repairs. Moral of my TL;DR, don't be afraid to negotiate! All in all, I should've payed $400-$500 less than I did. But because I'm a shy little b--ch I'm paying the price.
Drove 15 hours to pick up an s13 out of country, had a good price, looked pretty nice, ran a stage 3 chip and just had a full engine built and rust repair (with paperwork) a few years but only about 500 miles ago. 'just runs a little rich so could use a tune'. I couldnt test drive it because of 40cm snow in the mountains of austria amd it had no plates, but it started fine and we drove it up the trailer and headed home. Back home i wanted to do a small test drive, 2 minutes in it died due to intercooler piping blowing loose. Fast forward: its been 8 months and i was able to drive it about 10 miles during the time. No bolts were tightened, lots of cables not connected, brake failure, wouldnt start, misfired, turbo failure and it just keeps on going. LESSON LEARNED
A big red flag is trying to buy a car that has been sitting "for a while". Most of them cost very little but can end up costing more in the long run. From rotten tires, blown engine, the owner no remembering what was wrong with it or the notorious "it just stop running".
To be real.. any car I go for I ask to check the oil and do a almost full diag lmao and ask to hear it run.. and see if it leaks and runs hot as well as see what it sounds like.. most the time ppl don't want you to test drive so I ask them to take me on a short ride along. But for everything you spoke on in the vid I didn't know
If you buy it from a dealership or owner that mean independent civilian make them sign a contract, stating that this motor is not damaged and any possible body damage, accident or suspension issues or exhaust problem and wiring issues... leave columns on a contract that way the owner or dealership kaput what is wrong with the vehicle.. that way you are aware of any problems and y'all both signed and dated with a witness and then going to get it notarized at the courthouse and give copies of contract to each party... problem solved so now you want to worry about no one ripping you off... I start doing it back when I turn 16 back in 2001 and found out that the dealership in Johnson City Tennessee rip me off because somebody called be a bright idea to put sand in the motor I had that car for 3 days I took it back and get my money back and ever since then I start making for sign a contract cuz I feel if they want you to sign a contract of ownership of a vehicle they go sign a contract stating there's nothing wrong with that car and give you a Carfax this is nothing personal this is business
I always pull radiator cap (when the cars cold!!) and let the car run for a minute with the cap off. If you see a bunch of bubbles coming up, probably bad news.
Private sellers are the scum of the earth. They all think the pros are con artists so they try to one up the competition. The #1 rule of buying a sports car is - Pay a little more for the cleanest car you can find. Looking at a $3000 280zx? Find one that's worth $5-6000 and try to get a bit of a deal. Looking at a $7500 350z? Find one that's worth $12,000 with a catback, low miles, an owner who doesn't know how to drift and a life in a garage. Do not buy someone else's forced induction performance mods. They didn't do all that work and pay all that money to hand you a problem free car and trust me, they didn't out grow it. They just can't afford to keep it alive anymore. Try to find cars that have fallen out of favor. BMW Z3, and Z4 often shows up with an owner who has moved on. 986 Boxer is dirt cheap now, you can be picky about shape. GT86/BRZ/FRS is available used with 40,000 miles for nearly the same as all the 100k miles plus cars. Avoid 90s turbo cars. They were miracles of the age and now you need to be a rocket scientist to revive them. NA is your friend. And, don't make speed a priority. Speed costs money. Either that, or buy the $30k sub 50k miles car from the used section of a new car dealer's lot and get a pre purchase inspection.
What Red Flags do YOU watch out for when buying a car? COMMENT BELOW! Burnout season is upon us! Ditch those old rubbers and save $80 on a brand new set of Yokohama Advan Apex tires today! www.fitmentindustries.com/todaysdeals
If the car has been wrecked (made that mistake before)
Sheesh
@@tylerbanks2652 damn
@@jockey101 It's not terrible, just make sure you know the history b4 you buy something
@@tylerbanks2652 yep
"Is it a Land Rover?"
"Yes."
... Red Flag
😂😂😂😂😂
this needs a heart
Biggest red flag: "No low ballers, serious buyers only, I know what I have".
I can't blame them for saying "Serious buyers only"
You would be surprised how many people waste your time when you sell your car lol.
@@thunderocker343 i think that's just a given when selling cars on the internet...
was selling my 2005 997 porsche for 90k usd someone wanted it for 60k usd I live in the PH so its prob more expensive with all the tax and shit
@@thunderocker343 not really lmfao you're shopping for a car. You're not buying the first thing off the shelf. That's why it's a Test Drive lmfao
Low ballers
No interior pictures is a huge red flag for me.
When they say "the AC just needs a recharge". This tells me that, as well as other things about their car, they don't know are broken or don't care to fix them.
JuSt NeEDs nEw ApEX sEalS.
especially a cracked windshield too. if its a nice car with a cracked windshield it showers the owner didnt care enough to fix a 200-300$ item
@@nottobay6768 Bruh, that's almost like saying blown engine. Lol!
@@naseeb46 that's kinda the joke. 🤣
@@Werk4Cash "I dOnT hAvE fUlL CoVeRaGe"
One of my biggest red flags are phrases like “my baby” “my pride and joy”. 9 times out of 10 it’s a car that’s been beaten on and poorly maintained and the seller is trying to wring as much sentimental value out of it as possible.
Or they have a higher price because there "baby" is very important to them
Or maybe just maybe they loved there car and took Great care of it and yes sometimes drove it hard because it's meant to be driven... just a thought...
@@gamingeuphoria7928 Yeah, these red flags aren't meant to be taken as the be all end all for buying a car. Just something that should put you on your toes. No one's saying you should always disregard someone if they call the car they're selling their "baby"
Red flag when buying a car?
“Price is firm.” “I know what I have”
😭😭
I’m planning on selling a bike that I don’t use anymore and it has nothing wrong just a small scratch on the side and I’m using “price is firm” lol
I hate it when they say “ needs ________ it’s a quick fix” if it’s so quick then why haven’t you fixed it?
I fell for that one in high school when I bought my fc. Mf told me needs a diff swap and he gave me a spare diff. Opened the diff up after buying it to find out it was blown to pieces.
@@icouldntthinkofaname3055 I bought an IS300 that ended up needing cam gear seals
@@EX7RUD1CON shit I bought a is a month ago haven’t been able to drive it because it’s overheating and people I call and describe it to can’t figure it out. If I end up having to buy a new motor so be it it’s only 1000$
@@Mozetty odds are the motor is done for if it’s constantly overheating. Try changing the thermostat and radiator to see if that resolves the issue, but if it doesn’t then that means that the motor is done for and would most likely need the heads to be redone or just a complete motor swap. I know this because I had to learn the hard way when my 2003 Acura 3.2tl type S would always overheat to the red line everyday after 30 minutes of driving it. Even after changing two temperature sensors, the thermostat 4 times, the radiator twice, the hoses, and even the radiator cap. I tried everything before it came down to buying a new motor, now it never overheats after flooring it countless times because the old motor had its block messed up after ir overheat countless times. Oddly enemigo the head gasket never gave out on the old motor too, so it was a weird car to drive for a while.
@@emanuelaragon6203 im getting the thermostat changed in the morning, and the previous owner changed the thermostat with receipts of it and game me the old radiator but if its not just the thermostat or one of the temp readers ill get a motor
A big red flag for me is when the clock on a car is in a default - -:- - zero position like that as they unplugged the battery to try and clear any messages or it has a battery drain issue where they leave it disconnected or where they haven’t driven it because of a underlying issue and had to jump start it. It’s a big one on 2000s volvos because the clock is super easy to set so if they didn’t even take the effort to set the time after it’s been disconnected or jumped from a dead battery then who knows what else is wrong. Also a super clean engine bay on an older car that you know was scrubbed hard. Often times it was to hide a leak or something. When checking on a car on person and the engine is hot before you get there then often times they could be trying to hide a cold start issue. Always ask to have it be cold so you can check the cold start.
honestly i just dont like having a clock in a car and --/-- is more appealing then whatever real world is
@@SiFuNatice well on some cars it’s in the middle of the gauge cluster. I can understand leaving the one that’s located on the canter vent area but it would bother me a bunch to not have it set if it’s in my view all the time in the gauge cluster
@@rex_s80 yea mines on dash, but i understand you. For me its opposite, i hate seeing clock and time changing so i just let it be. Once mechanic disconected battery and after returning it he returned clock aswell. I had to ask him nicely to remove battery again so i dont have clock :D
@@SiFuNatice lol I gotcha. People have their own preferences but I see a bunch of volvos that you can tell have issues with the clock on zero and it’s just a big red flag for those because people try to clear lights using that but when they take a picture of the dash they will have the orange or red triangle saying there is an error but done show the side parts where it shows the check engine light or messages. So at least on those cars it’s a big red flag.
@@rex_s80 Yea i mean what you said can indicate about issues with cars i agree 100%. No idea why i commented anyway i do it rarely but thanks for convo
If only I had a dollar for every time Alex said “people like you and people like me” or “couple two tree things”
You’d be doin well fam 👀😂
“at the end of the day”
@@FitmentIndustries 😂😂😂
"Platform"
"Inherently"
Definitely the biggest red flag is how the owner talks. If you do a little research before buying a car and you ask them questions about the car and the most common answer they say is "I don't know" then you don't even gotta look at the car.
Some people are just really stupid but if its a dealership then yea thats a scam
My car had all the FLAGS . still bought it xD
Biggest red flag for me is "mechanic owned" that's when you know it's been absolutely beaten on
Hey... that may be a lot of us, but not all of us, some of us still need a car to get us to work and cant afford for the car to fail so it is maintained properly
@@nimbleryan735 couldn’t agree more just because we know how to fix its doesn’t mean it is feasible at the moment.
Not a red flag but more of a general rule: Never fall in love with a car until you own it. It will most likely hurt either your wallet or your ego or both A LOT when you let your emotions drive you to buy a car that you are just looking at.
Anything with “707hp from dodge”, guaranteed to be abused like drift wheels.
Hell, a brand new Dodge is a red flag.😆
If the seller wont let you drive it briefly at wide open throttle thats a huge red flag
"no tire kickers or joy riders, or low ballers".
@@eurosonly when they call people with cash in hand "joy riders" when in reality to them cash in hand means you are buying it no matter what. People r sooo dumb
@@eurosonly despite the Previous owner of my saturn ion redline supercharged not letting me go WOT i still bought the car. But soon found out the reason for no WOT driving was because of failing timing chain assembly parts. She still drove mostly fine and went 9 months knowing it had issues before i got the whole assembly fixed. Luckily it never jumped timing and shes been doing great otherwise for a 14 year old tuner car
@@wanderbread4217 for me, when i tell someone cadh in hand it means im very interested, but that the amount of cash leaving my hand to go to theirs depends on the condition and test drive once i see it. Just cuz i show up with 2k doesnt mean im spending 2k
My favorite red flag is when people put $10+k into a car and are suddenly looking for a "family car".
And half the time they're selling a fucking wagon saying they need a family car lmao
People suddenly have children or get pregnant lmfao is this news to you?
is this sarcastic? that shit happens all the time lmfao. People do get married/get pregnant you know
@@barthalemewnut7809 as someone who is both married and has kids, yeah, but it's not sudden lmao you got 9 months to organise more appropriate transport, and if you only got married why would that make you need to get a shit fucking SUV or something
@@taliesinpotter4097 i mean different people, different situations
The people that thumbs down are the ones selling these cars.
I bought a heavily modded ap1 s2000.
It has ap2 motor and trans.
Buddy club coilovers
Berk 3" exhaust with test pipe and tuned on an aem ecu.
Stern mags with a bit of camber in front and rear.
Zero receipts but I was able to drive it before making a decision but kind of fell in love with the burble tune on it and the way it handled.
I bought the car and is still running super healthy to this day. I had to take care of a couple leaks (vtec solenoid, tct) and the car is still running super strong.
Guess I got lucky!
"Mechanic special" always gets me
Oil. Leaks, flakes, shavings, shimmer and how black it is. A little burning or leaking is normal on most older cars, but an excessive amount is a sign of issues. Oil is the easiest way for anyone to get a decent idea of the health of the motor if you know nothing else about cars. It can also be a red flag if the oil is too clean, that’s a potential seller hiding something.
Thanks for the info. Definitely gonna keep this in mind when buying a car.
Or maybe just maybe he did an oil change which is what I would do when selling my car... lmaoo yall reach far
Old school muscle buyers. Do research on the car. Check all the panels and if there are any patches check to see if they’re from the right model year. I’ve seen ‘70 Duster’s ‘74 body panels. Check that or ask the owner
"Lady driven/Grandma Driven/Grandparents car." Usually means that the owner was absolutely shit and they are trying to sell their car using boomer selling tactics
Summed it up pretty good "If it sounds to good to be true it most likely is.." 😅😂😂😭
When they say anything like “runs like butter” “runs smooth needs nothing” and then the car will be a 160k mile 325i
to be fair they run like butter even with highmilage when well maintained.
i'd rather get a maintained 200k mile bmw than a 100k car that had 3 oil change records and nothing else.
Literally in the market for a car under 20k and these guys keep putting out sick videos that I need to see haha thanks guys
“Just needs a tune” is followed closely by “just needs a fuel pump” for project cars.
TL;DR they don’t know why it won’t start
One of the things I got got with when I bought my Mk7 GTI was title washing. One good way to check for it is to see if the car still has its manufacturer stickers on the inside of the doors, the hood, and the trunk lid/hatch.
huge red flag is wiring, if it looks scuffed, the car is a ticking time bomb
When it's "too clean". If anything with fluids in it is freshly cleaned, it means that it was leaking yesterday and will be leaking tomorrow.
I live in Illinois and nothing frustrates me more than when I’m going to go look at a car that was made before the 2000s just to find a giant rust hole in the car they avoided telling me
Wow, 2 evo clips right in the intro.. okay i'm invested
I check all of the panel gaps to see if they are all even.
Factory gaps are very close and good shop will get them even.
If they have multiple listings that are all over the world. most people only list there car once, where they live
One time I went to look at a 2001 Subaru Legacy, and there was no oil on the dipstick. Everything else looked, and sounded fine, and it ran/drove fine. But the moment I saw no oil I ran for my life.
Its hard to say Alex I bought a 94 300zx 92,000miles on it because it looked cool and the seller told me it just needed a timing belt. I spent over 2yrs trying to get it right and took it to a mechanic to let him try it in the end the car never ran the same before I sold it. Overall I think its just a challenging platform to work on and its not for everyone seller didn't mention it needed suspension and new trim as well. I luckily was able to break even and sell the car for what I bought it for plus the money I put into it because of the inflated used car market right now
Just assume everyone selling is a bigger liar than you when you sell your car
"I wish someone had told me about red flags on the b7 A4 that was a terrible choice..." 🤣🤣 I'm dying. B8 S4 all day baby
Red flag would be when the owner list on the description a c5 corvette and says “ oh I know what I got it’s a 1-400 from the factory with these options “ or when they say not joyrides
Yea when you test drive drive it like you stole it! And go at least 10 miles if the seller is hiding an engine light it’ll pop up within 10 miles
For anyone wanting to buy a Subie with an EJ engine. If there any mods make sure it got a tune by a reputable tuner. Even if it’s only an intake. While the car is on open the oil cap and check for white smoke coming out. If you see white smoke run. Head gaskets are obviously notorious on EJs and no matter how much people tell you “iTs OnLy A pRoBlEm On Na EnGiNeS”, its not. It’s hard to know when a hg is out on a subie because the car will feel perfectly fine. Highly likely that you wont see any coolant in the oil or any of the typical head gasket signs. The way to check is go WOT and then right away check the coolant reservoir. If it is bubbling, looks foamy, and/or is overflowing the hg is out. Sure, it can be air in the system but chances are the seller already replaced the coolant, thermostat, did a coolant pressure test, and who knows what else. It’s the head gaskets. When the hg blows on the perfect stock well maintained subie you got, get some ARP head studs. The stock ones fail even at stock levels it’s fucking stupid. Ask me how i know. If you want to make decent power and more reliability get an FA subie. With e60, fuel pump, and a good tune you’ll easily make an extra 100awhp. Can’t get that from an EJ.
Subies with the EJ engine are fun cars, but unfortunately it’s not the best platform for performance. I got my 2012 wrx last year and a month later the hg went out. Completely stock. Rebuilt and added some supporting mods for future power mods i had planned. I went stage 1 then stage 2 and all was well. 2 months ago I went stage 3+ E85. Making some fun power, but once again hg. I learned my mistake and i didn’t get the best of tunes when I knew I should’ve. Am i giving up on the car? Fuck no, I have an IAG block sitting in my garage right now ready to be put inside my subie. This has been a dream car of mine since I was 12 so my emotions blind my judgment but I sure don’t care. It brings me happiness. So if you get a subie just make sure you also get an extra engine while you’re at it.
appreciate this advice I've got an 04 wrx, not really chasing power, it was already somewhat heavily modded when I got it. But it was 3800$, so a new motor really isn't that big
Big concern is just trying to not need a motor as I'm trying to not spend all my money on this car.
Ya got any ideas for what this returning misfire code could be?
I'll run you some details real quick, It's only in cylinder 4, I've done plugs, coils, checked for vacuum leaks, nailed down a pretty reliable tune, determined if it was a hg issue or not, it's not. Even your test methods from above, it passes those.
I'm thinking it's a wiring harness or fuel injector issue now. If not that, maybe the cylinder is cracked or something that causes it to lose compression. If it's that, I'm getting a new long block but I do want the internals out this motor.
@@Tachyon836 what mods are on the car currently? Who is it tuned by?
To rule out the injector just swap it out for the one on Cyl 2. If the problem moves over to Cyl 2 then you found your problem. Have you performed a compression test? A leak down test would tell you more about the condition of your engine. But if anything is cracked you should see lower compression on Cyl 4.
What spark plugs did you use and what did you gap them too?
Any specific reason you want to keep the internals instead of just picking up another engine?
If you’re not chasing power then a stock motor with ARP head studs, catback exhaust, downpipe, if you want the cool noises an intake, and a good pro tune and you’ll have a pretty reliable car tbh. I wouldn’t keep the internals out of that block unless they were forged.
@@mr2loverboy So the official mod list is unknown, previous owner claimed it was a built motor that had been swapped in at one point.
Only mods I can tell are, K&N air filter, straight pipe w/ cat delete, cobb accessport, and a mishimoto radiator and hoses
The motor MIGHT actually be built, I've owned it for a few months now and it is able to put down power that I'm just not sure a stock WRX motor would be happy with. I've hit 18 psi and minus the issue of the vacuum leaks I've had to fix, it handles it beautifully.
You asked what spark plugs I used, I used NGK Premium Iridium plugs, they were pre gapped 0.30" I think. It was pre gapped out the box to whatever specification NGK had. Could that cause a misfire?
Haven't done a compression/leak test yet, need to have that done next. I work at a firestone, but frankly we're backed up to all hell that there isn't anyway I'm gonna have time to bring my car in. I definitely need to do that.
The name of the place that did the tuning is called Boosted Performance Tuning.
@@Tachyon836 yeah incorrectly gapped plugs can cause a misfire. It’s worth checking sometimes they don’t all come pre gapped correctly and should be checked before installing them.
Are you having any oil consumption?
I see a genesis coupe in the thumb nail, I instantly click because I have one
But then he doesn’t talk about it 😂
This is the comment I was looking for because I wasn’t sure he talked about it
Same reason I clicked lol
Saaaamee
The the only reason why I clicked it 😭💀
Seller (16 yo kid) posted his car at a decently lower price with Low miles. States that ‘car runs fine with no issues’. Sent me a list of mods. Agreed on viewing and I flew down to visit him (it’s an 8 hour drive).
When I visited the car, his dad drove it. Told me ‘the ignition switch is iffy’. Car was missing the factory strut bar and beauty cover, and reverse gear doesn’t stick sometimes. Barely drove WOT, didn’t allow me to drive because ‘his insurance is still under mine’.
Worst part? There was no damn AC. Was not too pleased when the ad said no issues with car. Dad told me ‘the son drives this car on the weekends at night, windows down’. ‘Car enthusiasts don’t need AC due to the load on the engine’. Immediately walked away and rented a car to drive home.
I should have noticed the biggest red flag was when the kid couldn’t pronounce ‘eibach’ and didn’t know what brand it was. Said ‘I am not interested in any negotiations, and 15 people have already texted me regarding the car, one person offered 16k cash’
Can’t believe someone would sell a car without AC without staying on the ad. This is wrong.
Oh God did this hit home. So last year I went from homeless to semi homeless. Trying to take care of my family that became homeless too. Sold my 93 Suburban and 03 Jetta to buy a 04 Scion xB. Everything looked good, took it around the block. Great car. Project car but working for 2.5k. Head was blown and they'd just patched it up for the sale. They vanished of course and I was left going through the whole cooling system praying it was something easy. It wasn't. So I was left with a complete loss on the car with nothing to drive and no money.
First cars should be as close to stock as you can get barring teenagers with mechanical families. They can often save a car. But as "my very first car" avoid mods you didn't do or pay to have done.
And...DON'T CUT THE G' DANG SPRINGS!!! Lowering springs are super cheap.
@@gopherchucksgamingnstuff2263 also, j
Keep the oem parts to put it back to stock if you ever decide to sell it
@@lynnmckenney1987 Indeed. that's a big one. You lose your pants if you mod it and do not have OEM parts for the next owner.
My red flag : When someone says they take very good care of the car and they are "car guys" and the engine bay is absolutely filthy.
Finally put on verde wheels I bought from you guys on my Lexus is350, they came in around a week and packaged really well, would recommend for anyone
My favorite is just need a family car now. I saw a STI hatchback marketplace with car seats in the back. Checked his Facebook profile was a 22 year old in college with no kids. Staged the photos with car seats bc he "needs a family car"
Yall should do a video on elkhart lake, road america, and nascar this year since they are going to be here close in wisco on the 4th
my n54 needs an oil change thanks for reminding me
Those wheels on the hoonigan autofocus car 🔥
Look at the underbody. It tells a whole lot of the car. Pinch welds. Tire wear, and oil pan and engine for any signs of wetness
My car journey started when the previous owner said it just has a exhaust leak and needs a AC recharge needless to say cars been sitting for about a year and has a flat and failed clear coat 😂😂
the age of a car as well. you cant fix a car you cant find parts for. I've got an 87 Fiero and most part suppliers at garages don't carry parts for them anymore. if anything breaks i have to supply my own parts to be fitted which takes time to be delivered then over to the garage to be put on so its this big hassle whenever anything goes wrong.
Just needs "fill in the blank" because almost every time it needs more. Oh and I saw a kid put windshield washer fluid in a coolant resevoir. Then when I asked about it he got mad and asked me if I was going to buy it or not.
bouta go look at a mk4 jetta gli in 2 hours and you posted this. Big W
Red flag when the buyer thinks they are buying a new car when buying a project car. Research research research and buy knowing you'll eventually have to do maintenance and other stuff.
Let me tell you about the time I bought a 240 out of state, in Socal during FD weekend at night! :D
I'm gonna buy a Subaru Impreza for 5k CAD (about 4k USD), can I get y'all's thoughts
Mileage 70000km / 44000 mi
No mods done to it, good service record, no secrets to really worry about . So what do you think. Also I'm from Canada so that AWD comes in handy
1:24 the way that synced up
*the biggest red flag I could think off would defintly be when a car looks to pristine on the out-/inside and the owner recommends to not test drive.*
I never had that happen to me, I don't own a car and driver license for long but I'm sure there are people who blindly bought their cars without test driving them first. Because the owner said it worked fine.
Also here's another tip based on experince of some of my friends and others I heard. Check every dang function in a car if it works, most importantly check the lights, check the brakes, check air and tire profiles, check the coils, check for the existence of airbags and security features such as ABS, ESP, ASR seat belts working important one! Check for fluids, check for energy, check every damn button on the dashboard/infotainment system check the climatronic/climate controls check for lights in the driver dashboard kinda obvious but people tend to ignore warning signals. Because otherwise you'll regret it. That's your money, time and value being on the line. Check the service history inside the manual- glovebox of the car. Check the owner history if it checks out as said in the video.
Here's a tip if you're purchasing a car keep a neutral guideance with you someone you can trust or preferably who has knowledge with cars and the technical side in general. This might be a friend or a buddy of a buddy with deep technical mad skillZ, just pick yours wisely I luckily had my older brother with me who knows the ins and outs of his cars and regularly helps other troubleshoot issues with theres also he's one of the founders of the car crew that I'm with double win. Pretty much a non-brainer at that point.
Here's someone I would not wanna take on the ride of buying a car for me, someone who previously had bad decisions on his record regarding cars having big project cars which are not finished yet. OK let me explain that, I'm talking about someone so dang sure saying as a negative example hey this car just needs a tune, someone who already bought the cars with flaws but still paid to much for it and didn't bother trading with the owner. Someone who tries and promote a certain type or brand of car to you. Someone who might say has knowledge but knows jack' shit about the actual technology or type of car you wanna buy for example you might wanna own a RWD car though the person that helps you has only ever had FWD cars.
Pretty much well summed up. My first car, a Honda Civic, was a blind buy. The funny thing is, my dad, who´s a really good mechanic, was with me at the time, but for some reason, he didn´t check anything. Only if it starts and runs and if the AC works. No test drive, no nothing. Now, that I know so much more about cars, I asked him what that was about, but even he couldn´t give me an answer. Weird story for sure
sometimes its a girlfriend that bought a car for their now ex boyfriend and they really dont know sht about the car but i agree with you that is 90% of the time
Can u make a video of a ctsv and w211 e55 amg kn who you’d think would win in a drag race
I fuck with y’all videos mane❗️
💙
Uploaded as I’m about to go buy a car
😎
You should be the only one hosting this channel!
A big one is if they keep repeating the same few things that they "replaced". Like really trying to hammer it home that they JUST did a full maint check on the vehicle and everything is sound, but they can't exactly name the specific parts that they changed/replaced besides easy things like Spark Plugs and wires and belts..
I unfortunately fell for the "you can do anything you want to it!".
It's basically their subconscious coming out and telling you there's gonna be a lot of work to make it nice.
Basically, I bought a neglected 95 Civic 4dr. O2 was unplugged so the engine would run rich enough to produce a pop in 1st/2nd. Oil and clutch fluid had not been changed in who knows how long, the Spark Plugs were fried, and it leaked oil on the INSIDE. The mechanic that fixed everything told me it actually upset him to see the condition of the vehicle, as it was very apparent that the previous owner basically polished a turd. The plates it came with turned out to not even belong to a current registered vehicle. So far about $1500 in repairs.
Moral of my TL;DR, don't be afraid to negotiate! All in all, I should've payed $400-$500 less than I did. But because I'm a shy little b--ch I'm paying the price.
At least you admit it but seriously if the plates were not a match I would have noped myself out of there.
Biggest red flag, especially in the Midwest, "No rust on the car" and there are no pictures of the underside
"Slight rust" the inside of the doors are completely rusted
Drove 15 hours to pick up an s13 out of country, had a good price, looked pretty nice, ran a stage 3 chip and just had a full engine built and rust repair (with paperwork) a few years but only about 500 miles ago. 'just runs a little rich so could use a tune'. I couldnt test drive it because of 40cm snow in the mountains of austria amd it had no plates, but it started fine and we drove it up the trailer and headed home. Back home i wanted to do a small test drive, 2 minutes in it died due to intercooler piping blowing loose. Fast forward: its been 8 months and i was able to drive it about 10 miles during the time. No bolts were tightened, lots of cables not connected, brake failure, wouldnt start, misfired, turbo failure and it just keeps on going. LESSON LEARNED
Prob karma for what ever bullshit you put someone through
I bought my mk4 vr6 12v and it actually only needed a tune for the cams 👌🏾 but the guy was a legit Volkswagen shop owner
I usually take it having less than 4 wheels as a red flag, unless it's a Reliant Robin, but I wouldn't buy one of those..
Love this channel so damn much yo🙏🔥🔥
💙
A big red flag is trying to buy a car that has been sitting "for a while". Most of them cost very little but can end up costing more in the long run. From rotten tires, blown engine, the owner no remembering what was wrong with it or the notorious "it just stop running".
The boys at Fitment Industries helping me buy a 350z
DUDE SAME
I've had mine for nearly 8 years and still love it, I bet you guys will too!
My entire project was a red flag. Pulling codes. White smoke in the exhaust missfire. Pulling codes. Oil leaks. Struggled on startup
To be real.. any car I go for I ask to check the oil and do a almost full diag lmao and ask to hear it run.. and see if it leaks and runs hot as well as see what it sounds like.. most the time ppl don't want you to test drive so I ask them to take me on a short ride along. But for everything you spoke on in the vid I didn't know
I need information about that beautiful white civic at like 6:58.
6:53
A big red flag for any car is when it takes 10 minutes to start. Still bought it. Was a 10 buck distributor fix. idk what point im trying to make
I would say it is a great negotiation point if your willing to risk it.
Planning on buying a 2017 or 2018 c43 amg. What should I look out for? Thank you
If there's maintenance receipts and good service history that should be a great car!
Biggest red flag, this is specific to Facebook marketplace. “Listed price is not real price, Facebook won’t let me put price”
Wow this is the earliest I been to a video
It’s wasn’t just a 3000gt…it was the vr4
All those red flags suddenly looked like the entrance to a carnival 🙃😭😬
…. 11:57 i own a B7 a4. it’s currently getting a motor replaced. 310,000 kms. i’ve owned it for less than a year
high temps upon starting
I just walked away from an otherwise almost perfect 350Z today because a couple panels were clearly repainted and the rear tires were worn out
Better safe than sorry- be patient you won’t regret it
@@naliinsuthakaran2967 I ended up paying the extra couple grand for a mint 370Z
Always look for rust!
That can kill your car without you really noticing
I was really hoping for “ we don’t have bread aisles we have tread aisles “ 🙃
If you buy it from a dealership or owner that mean independent civilian make them sign a contract, stating that this motor is not damaged and any possible body damage, accident or suspension issues or exhaust problem and wiring issues... leave columns on a contract that way the owner or dealership kaput what is wrong with the vehicle.. that way you are aware of any problems and y'all both signed and dated with a witness and then going to get it notarized at the courthouse and give copies of contract to each party... problem solved so now you want to worry about no one ripping you off... I start doing it back when I turn 16 back in 2001 and found out that the dealership in Johnson City Tennessee rip me off because somebody called be a bright idea to put sand in the motor I had that car for 3 days I took it back and get my money back and ever since then I start making for sign a contract cuz I feel if they want you to sign a contract of ownership of a vehicle they go sign a contract stating there's nothing wrong with that car and give you a Carfax this is nothing personal this is business
I always pull radiator cap (when the cars cold!!) and let the car run for a minute with the cap off. If you see a bunch of bubbles coming up, probably bad news.
Private sellers are the scum of the earth. They all think the pros are con artists so they try to one up the competition. The #1 rule of buying a sports car is - Pay a little more for the cleanest car you can find. Looking at a $3000 280zx? Find one that's worth $5-6000 and try to get a bit of a deal. Looking at a $7500 350z? Find one that's worth $12,000 with a catback, low miles, an owner who doesn't know how to drift and a life in a garage. Do not buy someone else's forced induction performance mods. They didn't do all that work and pay all that money to hand you a problem free car and trust me, they didn't out grow it. They just can't afford to keep it alive anymore. Try to find cars that have fallen out of favor. BMW Z3, and Z4 often shows up with an owner who has moved on. 986 Boxer is dirt cheap now, you can be picky about shape. GT86/BRZ/FRS is available used with 40,000 miles for nearly the same as all the 100k miles plus cars. Avoid 90s turbo cars. They were miracles of the age and now you need to be a rocket scientist to revive them. NA is your friend. And, don't make speed a priority. Speed costs money. Either that, or buy the $30k sub 50k miles car from the used section of a new car dealer's lot and get a pre purchase inspection.
Only time I've skipped maintenance.... Apex seals + rebuild
How long has the car sit without running
Maybe I should have went with silvers instead of waiting almost 3 months after ordering function and forms from FI
What about new subarus sti. Should I stay away 🤔
What car is that at 9:23.
Biggest red flag I can imagine is you show up to meet the seller, you pop the hood, and the car's already warmed up.
Why would I want a random dude driving my stick shift car when it's cold and has hard shifts... sorry don't feel like getting my gears grinded..
Was watching the tophers review on the 2021 jetta
Where were you when I got shafted by drivetime on a 2010 awd acura tl that had odometer fraud.
Or my f20b 5spd swapped prelude. Never buy a swapped car that doesnt feel over priced af. I shoulda known the fresh paint was a distraction.
Red flags when watching a video - if it takes >3 min (and 2 commercials) to get into any actual context….
A good red flag imo is if you pop the hood and its already warmed up, be wary. Probably has a really hard cold start
Is it a first Gen RX8?
Yes...
RED FLAG DON'T BUY IT! EVER
Wish i would have seen this before my i bought my STI 😢