Thank you! I was reading about how to adjust alignment and I was thinking "well that won't work, that would just move the sleeve up and down the threads of the tie rods, unless they have opposite threads!" Nobody mentioned that in any other videos or write ups I've found. So thanks!
About time I came across something that can help me. I have a 79 c10 that has a bad toe out issue. Took it to numerous shops and got all kinds of results. Looks like I can do it myself. Thanks.
My 1988 ranger is toed in like crazy and this is the only video online that shows these kinds of sleeves and how to fix it... THANKS FOR MAKING THIS VIDEO!!!
Pro tip: Keep in mind many/most vehicles have slightly different tracks in the front and back. i.e. the front wheels may be a few millimeters closer or farther than the back wheels are to each other. As a result the string method will get you close, but you could still be toed in or out slightly. An alternative to using a string from front to back involves making your own assembly that measures the distance between the center lines of the front tires. Another method involves more math, but uses a string that is parallel to the wheels, and you measure the distance between the string and the front/back of the front wheel rims. Do that on both sides and compare the measurements. If you have a digital caliper you can get pretty accurate measurements, too.
+Ryan Hill Thanks for sharing that tip. I just used the string for a refrence point to get the wheels straight parallel. Then I took front to back measurements off the rim to set the toe. Takes a few times to get it just right. That should good. If it pulls to one side I take it to the shop they test drive it two or three times to get camber, castor, and toe just right.
already did that...i put in new bearings and sway bar links...this caused my driver side to be toed out alot...other side was fine...got it driving straight but still saw some feathering on the tires...didnt see any play in the ball joints
I'm a landscaper string is key trying to find square and making things straight I use the string on mine evertime f150 ..works like a charm u can also measure your inner toe with a tape on the front of ur tires and measure the back of the same tire just too see how much your toed in after u have gotten your aligning done then toe in and measure cheers
You dont have to remember really. Just imagine you're screwing on a milk jug cap. To tighten the cap (to bring the tie rod inwards), you have to turn to the right, clockwise. So to bring them in, turn the sleeve clockwise, or turn the top of the sleeve to the back of the truck. If you have to spread it out (unscrew the milk jug cap), turn the sleeve counter-clockwise, or the top of the sleeve to the front of the truck. Hope you understand my analogy :D
Hey folks, remember the Ford torque spec on those F150 adjuster sleaves is 41 foot pounds. Some adjuster sleeves on other vehicles is a lot less. I have seen those sleeves get loose on F150's and it doesn't end well!
I have found loose adjusters after a wheel alignment by a shop. The same goes for my trucks with IFS suspensions. The lower control arm adjusters are never torqued to factory specs.
I have had a kick watching your vids. My son's 92 blew out the transmission. That is a job as you know. We did the R&R but I had it rebuilt. After watching all your vids on that, I thought NO WAY! Now the spider gears in the rearend have let go. I laughed when I saw this vid thinking, I guess this will be next!
So the tie rod ends are left hand thread but the bolts on the adjusting sleeve are normal right? I cant get the bolts to loosen on my adjusting sleeve.
what do you do if each side is not toed the same way to start with...do you still do even turns on both sides...my mazda b2300 is giving me issues...the driver side always seems to be 1/4" toes in and my no matter what I do
dam steering wheel is at a 45 degree angle to the left, so my right turn signal turns off before turning and I have to hold it on :( what do I need to adjust? my wheels are aligned really well and drives straight, all steering parts are brand new including the gear box.
After this string method to get you close, use a grease pen and draw a straight line on the tread of your front tires vertically all the way around. You can spin the tire all the way around (jacked up off the ground and in neutral with rear tires chocked) while your grease pen stays stationary using a guide like a triangle or another 90 degree angle piece of material. Then take a measurement of the distance between those center lines you drew on your tire treads starting with the front of the tires, then the back side. 99% of wheel alignment charts state the max is usually 1/4" difference on the front vs the back or vice versa. Remember all roads have a crown and your vehicle will always pull to one side while driving, but it is minimal. Bad wheel alignment will pull you to one side or the other more aggressively and is noticeable ;)
I have a 69 F 250 on my passenger side I don't have a ajustment sleeve I only have one on the driver's side I can't seem to find a video on that style with only one ajuster on the driver's side .
So if the sleeve rotate on a stationary rod , how do you see that is moving in ? It’ll only shorten the shaft if the outer balljoint can rotate . The sleeve rotating doesn’t do anything besides giving one end less or more thread
It gives both ends thread or takes thread from both. One side is rh thread, the other is lh thread, so turning the sleeve one way will tighten both rods into the sleeve.
eeerrr. Ok. First off, good job explaining the mechanics of the adjustment. Its not really too hard, just make sure you have a 6 point socket to undo the bolts on the adjustment collars, and hit them with pb or wd for a couple days before trying them. But I have to disagree with your method, for a couple of reasons. You are correct about the pitman arm and steering wheel needing to be lined up..but heres where our opinions part ways. Unless you have had a THRUST ANGLE ALIGNMENT, your rear end could be up to 5 degrees out of alignment, depending on the condition of your u-bolts, or if the truck has ever been in a wreck and needed the frame straightened. Using the string method in this case would cause dog-tracking, which would cuase excessive wear on all four tires. The best way Ive found is, just line the pitman and steering wheel up, and then make sure the front end has MATCHING tires and rims, and use the tire tread to your advantage, get a tape measure, and measure from the center tread across the front of the tires. write it down. measure again but this time go behind the tires, using the same tread point. write it down. subtract the smaller measurement from the larger one. split the result in half. Thats how far in inches it needs to come in on EACH SIDE. Make them so..recheck pitman and steering wheel. once the measurements match, bring each collar in 1/4 turn, and tighten them down. this gives you a slight toe-in, which is what you need to keep the road crown from yanking on your wheels. no strings, no markers, no tape. One last thing. Do this with the truck's weight on the front tires!!! If not, it will be out of whack when you let it down. Especially on a ford ttb. Which I must say, ttb is great, but it will eat tires no matter what you do. Inherent in the design.
After your tires are toed in correctly at center of the steering lock, they will turn with correct proportion realitive to each other in both directions, instead of having oversteer one direction and understeer the other. The string method is a good way to blow 800 bucks on tires because too cheap for an 80 dollar alignment.
I just use the string to get the tires close enough, then I measure front to back and adjust the toe. Go for a drive and readjust. I get it close enough and if there's any type of pull to right or left I'll take to aliment shop. So this video is from 2012 and just took it in the shop last month. They adjust the castor, welded up the cross member to the frame, and adjusted the steering box. Good to go!
@@rudedogii I just checked mine after replacing a tie rod end. I put the string on my jack stands keeping it a couple inches away from the back rim and I set the string parallel with the back rim. The string extended all the way to the front rim to the second jack stand. Then I measured from the string to check the side I changed for toe in. Didn't have to adjust because I used a 12'' calipers to take accurate measurements before removing the old tie rod end.
good vid. thanks for the info. makes sense. i read the comments and people acting like thier auto mechanics. duh, this only to show people that dont know how to do this a few tricks. everybody does know its only till you get to a shop. give the guy a break. lets see your vids. love to read the comments.
also..i measured the distance between the wheel well and the center of the hub and one is a half inch longer distance than the other if that tells you anything....checked the hood, bumper and tailgate with a level and its sitting level...go figure
If I replace inner and outer rods (together, it is a set), and I remove the old ones, after that if I matched the total length of the set (put together) to the old rods set, will it be sufficient alignment to go to the professionals to do alignment there? Thank you for the film.
@@Hiram33 Thank you, you were right, mechanic said it was pretty good alignment (I think bcs I counted accurately turns of the nut, which keeps the Outer Tie Rod).
Nah... he’s just trying to explain how to do something in a dumbed down version for those who have no idea what all goes into fine tuning steering controls. I have a 78 F100 and I can tell you how much of a pain the steering components are to align.
Kinda' petered out there mumbling something about the weather.. Ha ha It's because you're old dude. face it. I recognize that sorta' thing, cause I'm old too.
When you have25 beers on a sunny weekend, then decide to shoot a video about alignment.
🤣🤣🤣
lmaooo
Thank you! I was reading about how to adjust alignment and I was thinking "well that won't work, that would just move the sleeve up and down the threads of the tie rods, unless they have opposite threads!" Nobody mentioned that in any other videos or write ups I've found. So thanks!
I have done this many times but can never remember which way to turn the sleeves.
@@rudedogii I read an idea to put a piece of tape right next to the sleeve so I could be certain which way it was moving. Worked pretty well.
About time I came across something that can help me. I have a 79 c10 that has a bad toe out issue. Took it to numerous shops and got all kinds of results. Looks like I can do it myself. Thanks.
Ez too adjust. I just hope you dont have other problems like worn or bent parts.
Haha I always do the same thing when adjusting those sleeves. I can never seem to remember which way to turn the damn things. Great video man!
just aligned my wheels, thanks for the video, very helpful
well that was one of the best tricks I've seen with the string so far
Thanks man, really handy video to learn from. Good work
Thank you very much for this video.
Awesome truck. Awesome video. Awesome dude. Thanks.
Thanks for the video man. Pretty helpful
thanks, nice simple explanation!
Fine video. Great information. Thumbs up!
You're a good man.
Thanks for the video, you clarified some things for me.
Youre welcome!
Thanks - Nice stuff
My 1988 ranger is toed in like crazy and this is the only video online that shows these kinds of sleeves and how to fix it... THANKS FOR MAKING THIS VIDEO!!!
Pro tip: Keep in mind many/most vehicles have slightly different tracks in the front and back. i.e. the front wheels may be a few millimeters closer or farther than the back wheels are to each other. As a result the string method will get you close, but you could still be toed in or out slightly. An alternative to using a string from front to back involves making your own assembly that measures the distance between the center lines of the front tires. Another method involves more math, but uses a string that is parallel to the wheels, and you measure the distance between the string and the front/back of the front wheel rims. Do that on both sides and compare the measurements. If you have a digital caliper you can get pretty accurate measurements, too.
+Ryan Hill Thanks for sharing that tip. I just used the string for a refrence point to get the wheels straight parallel. Then I took front to back measurements off the rim to set the toe. Takes a few times to get it just right. That should good. If it pulls to one side I take it to the shop they test drive it two or three times to get camber, castor, and toe just right.
great job i think old school never gone bad
thanks dude preciate it
Perfect explanation
already did that...i put in new bearings and sway bar links...this caused my driver side to be toed out alot...other side was fine...got it driving straight but still saw some feathering on the tires...didnt see any play in the ball joints
I'm a landscaper string is key trying to find square and making things straight I use the string on mine evertime f150 ..works like a charm u can also measure your inner toe with a tape on the front of ur tires and measure the back of the same tire just too see how much your toed in after u have gotten your aligning done then toe in and measure cheers
You dont have to remember really. Just imagine you're screwing on a milk jug cap. To tighten the cap (to bring the tie rod inwards), you have to turn to the right, clockwise. So to bring them in, turn the sleeve clockwise, or turn the top of the sleeve to the back of the truck. If you have to spread it out (unscrew the milk jug cap), turn the sleeve counter-clockwise, or the top of the sleeve to the front of the truck. Hope you understand my analogy :D
thanks im doin my ttb explorer tomarrow
Hey folks, remember the Ford torque spec on those F150 adjuster sleaves is 41 foot pounds. Some adjuster sleeves on other vehicles is a lot less. I have seen those sleeves get loose on F150's and it doesn't end well!
I have found loose adjusters after a wheel alignment by a shop. The same goes for my trucks with IFS suspensions. The lower control arm adjusters are never torqued to factory specs.
I have had a kick watching your vids. My son's 92 blew out the transmission. That is a job as you know. We did the R&R but I had it rebuilt. After watching all your vids on that, I thought NO WAY! Now the spider gears in the rearend have let go. I laughed when I saw this vid thinking, I guess this will be next!
So the tie rod ends are left hand thread but the bolts on the adjusting sleeve are normal right? I cant get the bolts to loosen on my adjusting sleeve.
what do you do if each side is not toed the same way to start with...do you still do even turns on both sides...my mazda b2300 is giving me issues...the driver side always seems to be 1/4" toes in and my no matter what I do
I got a 91 Ford f350 7.5 crew cab. Is this the same thing?
So the adjuster sleeves tighten to the vehicle. That's an easy way to remember it. It's like your'e tightening it to the vehicle.
Both sides drive into the vehicle?
Good educational video. Merica
That rope trick is pretty nifty
Thats not very accurate but you need something for a point of reference. Get it close enough for a drive over to the alignment shop.
dam steering wheel is at a 45 degree angle to the left, so my right turn signal turns off before turning and I have to hold it on :( what do I need to adjust? my wheels are aligned really well and drives straight, all steering parts are brand new including the gear box.
After this string method to get you close, use a grease pen and draw a straight line on the tread of your front tires vertically all the way around. You can spin the tire all the way around (jacked up off the ground and in neutral with rear tires chocked) while your grease pen stays stationary using a guide like a triangle or another 90 degree angle piece of material. Then take a measurement of the distance between those center lines you drew on your tire treads starting with the front of the tires, then the back side. 99% of wheel alignment charts state the max is usually 1/4" difference on the front vs the back or vice versa. Remember all roads have a crown and your vehicle will always pull to one side while driving, but it is minimal. Bad wheel alignment will pull you to one side or the other more aggressively and is noticeable ;)
You may have some worn parts? Check for front end play.
Jack the wheels off the ground and check for play. Up down and side to side.
I have a 69 F 250 on my passenger side I don't have a ajustment sleeve I only have one on the driver's side I can't seem to find a video on that style with only one ajuster on the driver's side .
Kinda makes sense , to me . I am after changing tie rod ends . but to be real ? why not a wheel alignment center ? How much ya saving ?
So if the sleeve rotate on a stationary rod , how do you see that is moving in ? It’ll only shorten the shaft if the outer balljoint can rotate . The sleeve rotating doesn’t do anything besides giving one end less or more thread
It gives both ends thread or takes thread from both. One side is rh thread, the other is lh thread, so turning the sleeve one way will tighten both rods into the sleeve.
Ha ha Good old 'merican 'splainin' right there..
Lol I'm gettin a slight macho Man Randy Savage vibe from this dude
I just sold that Bronco after twenty years. In twenty years I replaced the tie rods twice. Each time I need to refresh on how to adjust.
You cannot use the rubber side walls to reference. You must use the wheel metal rims to reference.
That's just for a rough measurement to get things pointed in the right direction. Finale measurements are taken off the lip of the wheels.
How do you do it with a dually use inside tire ?
The string is just for refrence, "straight line" off the rear wheels. Doent matter wich wheel.
So you loosen both nuts and turn that thing to adjust toe?
Yes, that's the adjuster sleeve.
@@rudedogii What if one rod is screwed in more than the other though
@@xzx4020 Start all over so there even!
eeerrr. Ok. First off, good job explaining the mechanics of the adjustment. Its not really too hard, just make sure you have a 6 point socket to undo the bolts on the adjustment collars, and hit them with pb or wd for a couple days before trying them. But I have to disagree with your method, for a couple of reasons. You are correct about the pitman arm and steering wheel needing to be lined up..but heres where our opinions part ways. Unless you have had a THRUST ANGLE ALIGNMENT, your rear end could be up to 5 degrees out of alignment, depending on the condition of your u-bolts, or if the truck has ever been in a wreck and needed the frame straightened. Using the string method in this case would cause dog-tracking, which would cuase excessive wear on all four tires.
The best way Ive found is, just line the pitman and steering wheel up, and then make sure the front end has MATCHING tires and rims, and use the tire tread to your advantage, get a tape measure, and measure from the center tread across the front of the tires. write it down. measure again but this time go behind the tires, using the same tread point. write it down. subtract the smaller measurement from the larger one. split the result in half. Thats how far in inches it needs to come in on EACH SIDE. Make them so..recheck pitman and steering wheel. once the measurements match, bring each collar in 1/4 turn, and tighten them down. this gives you a slight toe-in, which is what you need to keep the road crown from yanking on your wheels. no strings, no markers, no tape. One last thing. Do this with the truck's weight on the front tires!!! If not, it will be out of whack when you let it down. Especially on a ford ttb. Which I must say, ttb is great, but it will eat tires no matter what you do. Inherent in the design.
After your tires are toed in correctly at center of the steering lock, they will turn with correct proportion realitive to each other in both directions, instead of having oversteer one direction and understeer the other. The string method is a good way to blow 800 bucks on tires because too cheap for an 80 dollar alignment.
I just use the string to get the tires close enough, then I measure front to back and adjust the toe. Go for a drive and readjust. I get it close enough and if there's any type of pull to right or left I'll take to aliment shop. So this video is from 2012 and just took it in the shop last month. They adjust the castor, welded up the cross member to the frame, and adjusted the steering box. Good to go!
Good stuff!!
Is this thread still getting responses?
Chances are the rear wheels width from side to side is less than the front. That puts the string at an angle.
Yes it does. Get the angle even on each side and you will be close enough to drive it to an alignment shop.
@@rudedogii I just checked mine after replacing a tie rod end. I put the string on my jack stands keeping it a couple inches away from the back rim and I set the string parallel with the back rim. The string extended all the way to the front rim to the second jack stand. Then I measured from the string to check the side I changed for toe in. Didn't have to adjust because I used a 12'' calipers to take accurate measurements before removing the old tie rod end.
good vid. thanks for the info. makes sense. i read the comments and people acting like thier auto mechanics. duh, this only to show people that dont know how to do this a few tricks. everybody does know its only till you get to a shop. give the guy a break. lets see your vids. love to read the comments.
also..i measured the distance between the wheel well and the center of the hub and one is a half inch longer distance than the other if that tells you anything....checked the hood, bumper and tailgate with a level and its sitting level...go figure
what tool do i use to turn the sleeve?, its tight still after loosening screws, pipe wrench didnt work
Outdoor Whistler
There is something they rent at auto zone called an adjustment wrench something like that it’s on the place mat at the register
Yeah. Ford Bronco... the predecessor to the Explorer.
Yeahhh
If I replace inner and outer rods (together, it is a set), and I remove the old ones, after that if I matched the total length of the set (put together) to the old rods set, will it be sufficient alignment to go to the professionals to do alignment there? Thank you for the film.
Yup.... might not even need alignment... up too you how steering feels
@@Hiram33 Thank you, you were right, mechanic said it was pretty good alignment (I think bcs I counted accurately turns of the nut, which keeps the Outer Tie Rod).
Probably not a good idea to drink a 12 pack before filming
7:25 there's a beer above his right shoulder
Here in Ohio it's a state law that you are required to drink beer when working on a vehicle. Cheers brutha.
Good video. You could make money as a George W. Bush impersonator.
is it just me or is this guy a little on the crazy side
Your post shows you sat in the back of the class on the days you went at all.
Sorry, this was meant for Rob Wag.
Nah... he’s just trying to explain how to do something in a dumbed down version for those who have no idea what all goes into fine tuning steering controls. I have a 78 F100 and I can tell you how much of a pain the steering components are to align.
Kinda' petered out there mumbling something about the weather.. Ha ha It's because you're old dude. face it. I recognize that sorta' thing, cause I'm old too.
Some videos go too fast. Some go too slow....
I'm an amateur!
Why is this guy more worried about being in the video than making an informative video
Big deal
or just take it up somewhere and get an alignment...... or listen to this drunk guy who has nothing better to do