I changed the radius arm bushings and it changed my toe-in by nearly 1/4"! (each tire!) This is the video i needed so see how to adjust it closer to straight so I can drive to the alignment shop.
Good video. I may look into this. Mines 1996 f250 2wd. Lots of tire noise after new tires installed without an alignment. I'm wondering of this will assist on removing that noise?
Thanks!🤙 Nice! So if your front end is misaligned you could have a little extra tire noise. In general it’s a good idea to make sure that your front end alignment is good.
Hope you still see these. I have a 1988 f350 with the same set up minus one slight difference....THE SWAY BAR!!!!! Was that to fix a problem or just to upgrade the system entirely? Would love to see a video on that.
I see you turned the passenger steering, ill call it counter clock wise to turn out, do you also turn the driver side in same direction to make it come in, or opposite direction??? my truck has this exact issue.
I know it's been a minute, haha, but if my steering wheel is sitting too far left, I'd adjust forward on the drag link on the passenger side for "in" and adjust rearward on the driver side for "out?" Does that make sense?
I can’t remember the direction of rotation on the tie rod adjustment sleeves but sounds about right. I made a newer video about toe alignment that might help ya.
That can be fixed with a proper alignment. If your caster gets adjusted correctly, your steering wheel (with input from the wheels) will return to center. Think of grocery cart from wheels. They always face back when you move forward.
Technically you need to adjust both sides to make sure you maintain the proper toe. At the time of filming this, I didn’t mind having a little more “toe in.”
F150XLT.. lots of tire noise..when I turn the steering wheel to the right it goes away..the steering does not shake.. just noisy.. What do you think I should adjust..Thanks Pedro in Texas..
@@TheMinuteMasters in 95...drag link with steering box ...same set up....and being in Canada, those nut and bolt on the sleeves...tend to seize or snap...so have some handy for replacement. Just in case 😉. GM didnt switch to rack and pinion till 2007
Leatherkid01 Gotcha! I didn’t think about that! Mine only need a little penetrating oil to free up. Damn! GM came a little late to the party. I think around 97-98 Ford switched to rack and pinion.
So I would only have to adjust one side ( there's one on each end) and not both of them right? I just installed a Redhead steering gear and my steering wheel is off about 5-10 degrees now. Truck is a '94 F-150 XLT 4x4. Thanks in advance!
Jim You’ll need to adjust both ends for both wheels to be straight and lined up in the same direction. Nice! I hear Redheads are good! Good year! No problem man!🤙
I wonder if you could help me out with the concern I have. My Tacoma’s lower control arm hit the bump while was doing off road, Since then it pulls to the side that hit the bottom. I have done the alignment and they adjusted the camber castor bolts which were loose. It fixed by 50% I could say but the steering goes mild to the right position. They says it’s alignment is perfect but I don’t feel the way it use to be. Can you shed some light. Thanks
My left tire on my F150 2007 Triton four-wheel drive is kind of like bouncing up and down when I drive I can't really go fast and I haven't really went for but I just put a new control arm on the bottom and a new control arm on the top I would just do my alignment and it should be fine right
I’d make sure everything is bolted correctly and there are no cracks in the frame or mounts. It sounds like a really bad shock or a really bad alignment. I’d try to check both. With your truck sitting level on the ground, push down hard on the bumper and release quickly. If the front end bounced a lot, it’s a bad shock.
Joe Dirt I actually have! Most guys will and probably have told you just to buy a 4x4 truck. The reason they say this is 1) it’s a ton of work. 2) It costs more to do the conversion than to buy another. I’ve estimated it to be between 2k and 3k without a donor truck. 3) the biggest hurtle to overcome is the 2wd frame is different from 4wd. So you have to cut and weld a 4wd frame into your truck. (This could be different from solid axle trucks.) After I learned all of that, I just had to settle for my 2wd. I would like to buy a 4wd in the future though. In the meantime, I’m going do a prerunner mid travel suspension.
I'm a class b tech for a suspension company. If you have seen what I've seen with rock auto parts u wouldn't have them. Dont bet your life on them I've seen almost every type of suspension part fail in brand new condition including tie rod ends ball joints control arms sway bar etc. I also have pictures of their failed parts. You can go off a 1 time experience if you want I've been seeing there failures for almost 20 years straight.
@@mikemiller5565 well my career has gone everywhere from the auto wreckers to installing Detroit 92s in a diesel buses along with the associated suspension work and if you keep it Factory stock the way the engineers intended it unless you're buying made in China junk which I don't I buy more the other known Brands I've never had a failure the only failures I've ever seen on any vehicle is they were modified lifted and taken away from the stock engineering and that's always a big problem I will never buy a vehicle that's been modified or lifted like that a truck that's just trashed everything from the bearings to all the steering Knuckles so it's called a little bit of experience brother keep it stock the way the engineers intended it
@@mikemiller5565 PS Dodge did have a bunch of steering parts they met they manufactured in '05 that actually went bad and they had to recall quite a few trucks and change his drain Parts due to bad casting on the steering parts but that's a real rare item they're heavily tested when they're manufactured
@@mikemiller5565 Out of curiosity, what would your recommendation be for brand/source then? I’ve got an ‘86 F150 and all the local junk lots have toasted tie rods I can’t salvage.
My top of steering wheel is at about 2 oclcock maybe 2:30. Would that be able to fix it? And I was wondering my front end vibrates after like 50mph new wheel bears and I bought ball joints and axle pivot bushings and radius arm bushing where replaced last year. Any idea what could be causing it.
Jon Zidek Yeah you should be able to correct that. It’s at east worth a try. So vibrations are a hard think to pin down. It sounds like your front end is good. There isn’t much to the back end. How old are your tires and when were they last balanced?
@@TheMinuteMasters Oh duh lol I forgot you had mentioned that it's 2x2 before. Yeah from what I'm seeing I should be able to do pretty much everything up top from the hole already there. I literally just bought this rough 95 f150 beater and your videos have been super helpful! Definitely appreciate them since I've never worked on cars/trucks at all lol.
That sucks, but it’s not too bad. If you turned the adjusting knuckle in the tire rod and turned with it the only thing you’ll end up doing is putting your tire rod at an awkward angle which may cause premature wear of the rubber boot.
Just drop tie rod and turn wheal straight put string rear front keep on rear front tire adjust rods put on keep joint straight y axels straight any rig with front 4x4 tow in and are straight inner outer s period
If you want to set neutral toe then with both front wheels set on turn plates (you can't adjust toe with the tires on the ground) turn the steering wheel left and right and return it to center. get out and jounce the frond end to unload the suspension. Take a tape measure and measure the distance between one tread groove one the front of left tire to the same groove on the front of the right tire. Write down your measurement. Then bring your tape to the rear of the front tires. Using the same grooves you used in the front measure the same distance groove to groove. Write that down. If the two measurement are exactly the same then the toe is 0 degrees. There is equal distance b/w the front and rear of the front tires. This will give you no toe wear on your tires but vehicle manufacturers don't set vehicles up this way. They like to have like .25 degrees toe in. Meaning the front tires are closer in the front than they are the rear. /\ This helps cornering the tiniest amount or if you are drag racing it helps make the car go straight down the track. For trucks they set them .25 toed out \/. This increases handling stability. These are just general numbers and not vehicle specific. You have to split the difference in half and adjust each side by that much so if its one inch then you need to adjust the left side half and inch and the right side half and inch. This is how you keep your steering wheel straight. If you adjusted the difference all on one side you would end up with a crooked steering wheel when going down the road. Camber and caster have more to do with how a vehicle handles than does toe. If you have a truck like this or any vehicle that has an actual steering box you can "tighten" up the steering some by loosening the top nut on top of the steering box with a wrench while using a flat head screwdriver to hold the screw in the center of it. Turn the screw an b/w a 16th to no more than an 8th of an inch (1/16 - 1/8) to the right then lock down the nut while holding the screw in the same location never letting it turn any direction any further. That screw places pressure inside the steering gear box. If you turn it too tight you can't turn the steering at all which sound like you can just loosen it up but it not that simple. That screw is supposed to have so much torque. Too much and you might be able to turn the steering wheel but the steering gear box could break internally and you lose control of the vehicle b/c you just lost physical connection with the steering from your steering wheel to the part the steering box moves. It's better to have it too loose than too tight. Just keep it the change withing the amount I suggest and you should be fine.
James J Beuerlein Good to know man!🤙 So when I filmed this video I only adjusted one side on camera. Once, I was finished filming, I adjusted both. I had the alignment done at a shop but they never get my steering wheel exactly centered. So more of a steering wheel adjustment then an actually suspension alignment fix. But again, thanks for the info.
@@TheMinuteMasters crgllc.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Hunter-DSP-600-Alignment-Machine.jpg This is the last alignment machine I ever used a Hunter DSP 600. As far as your steering wheel being crooked I could set your steering wheel 90 degrees turned and have your toe set perfect. When the tech gets out of the vehicle he is supposed to center the steering visually then put a steering wheel lock which hold the wheel in position by puttign pressure b/w two arms that are against the bottom of the steering wheel and a pedestal that sits pressed into the drivers seat. That way when you start moving toe settings you are going to move them so that the toe is parallel to the straight steering wheel. If the wheel is slightly crooked. You will have a crooked steering wheel but the tires won't wear. ***Some crooked shops will show you a spec sheet with the wheels turned and the toe on the left and right will show red or out of alignment. DISREGARD that.*** What you look for is total toe which is the allowable range b/w the two toe settings. If that is red then the toe is actually out and you really need an alignment. If the steer ahead is red and the total toe is green then the steering wheel is just crooked and they should ask you if you want the alignment or not. Some shops will just say you agreed to an alignment but I say a crooked steering wheel is not an alignment. Its cosmetic and doesn't affect tire wear. www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xk8-xkr-x100-17/55627d1379849494-hunter-alignment-checks-any-good-kwikfit%25203.jpg
Thank you for the comment. I'm in the process of doing just this on my 1994 f150 4x4 and I'm clueless. I'm in the process of replacing tie rods, axle pivot bushings & radius arm bushings. Thanks for the information.
So an alignment will get you straight. If your expedition likes to veer/pull to one particular side I’d say that’s an alignment issue. If your expedition will veer to either side there’s a couple of things that affect that. If alignment is straight and you have play to either side, I’d look at your ball joints and tie rod ends. If they are worn, you will have some play. If those two fixes don’t do it, you might have too much “toe in” and need more “toe out” (think pointing you toes inward or your toes out ward. “Toe in”makes turning fast and or dodgy. It takes more work to keep the vehicle pointed straight. “Toe out”will make steering less responsive and make you stay straighter. An ideal alignment for a DD is slight negative camber, slight toe out, and slight positive caster.
So to adjust my steering I had to turn it 1 quarter on both sides. You may need more turns. But you definitely have to adjust both sides if you want both wheels to be parallel (assuming they are parallel already).
My steering has always had too much play in it. The garage said they could figure out where it was loose. When I'm driving, the wheel is back and forth as I constantly correct it to keep it in the lane. It's a '96.
Jason Anders So I think the drag link steering isn’t terribly precise. However I’ve seen the most improvement from my new steering box and new ball joints. The rag joint in the steering column can get worn too. It’s honestly a process of elimination.
Trex264 I know right! It makes sense though. The I beam suspension pivots almost dead center under the truck. So the pivot point for the steering can only be located in one location.
@@TheMinuteMasters sorry I was a jerk. I was in a hurry, got some serious pressure on me right now, just got a truck I need on the road now, I replaced the steering linkage, thought my alignment was way off, but I put my steering stabilizer bracket on the wrong way. I make some videos too, not the best for sure, I know how hard it is to do the job and make a video too, I have respect for you for doing it.
@@artamus73 Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate you commenting back. We’ll all had moments of pressure. I totally get it. Videoing is tough while working. I was just saying the other day that podcasting must be so nice because there is no video. Lol
This should be somewhat similar to newer vehicles too. However, newer vehicle, sometimes have you on install the end of the tie rod to make adjustments.
What a pain in the dick. They couldn't just design a steering wheel spline shaft so that the wheel could be removed and replaced at any position, they had to make it so that you have to jack up your front end and fuck up the alignment just to move the wheel a bit. Forget it I'm ok with a crooked steering wheel.
56 years is quite an impressive résumé, but I have a hard time believing this is 100% bad advice. Every time I brought my truck back from the alignment shop the steering wheel never pointed in a straight direction. So every time it was my job to get the steering wheel to point straight. Once I was finished, I could be going, high speeds and let go of the wheel and it will still drive straight and the steering wheel would point straight as well. So what exactly did I do wrong?
@@TheMinuteMasters it really is a good video but if you learn how to edit whenyou work, and explain at the same time that would be awesome, you might want to watch other videos that do that and while explaining they go and say what they're doing with a separate audio... I hope I was able to explain myself lol. I guess my point is that you talked to much while I waited for you to make a move every time.
@@toronjanahera1143 Good point Toronja! I actually planning on redoing this video and my style has changed. I use a tripod now and I try to do the work as I’m talking.
Really clear, straight to the point and well explained. A reshreshing change. Nice job!
Christian Nicholson Thanks man!🤙 I’m glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
I've been sharing these videos, very helpful. Thanks
Thanks so much Bobby! I really appreciate you doing that!🤙
HOW did I miss this video. I have watched all of them!
Well I’m glad you found it!🤙
Thanks Stevie. Will try to put new tie rod end, and adjust my alignment tomorrow on my old 83 F150.
No problem Gary!🤙 Good luck!
Perfect video thank you now I can fix my truck subscribed and liked
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it!
good presentation! good tips- thanks Mister !
Thanks Bucky! I appreciate it!🤙
Quick an simple. Thanks.
Thanks man!🤙
I changed the radius arm bushings and it changed my toe-in by nearly 1/4"! (each tire!) This is the video i needed so see how to adjust it closer to straight so I can drive to the alignment shop.
Wow!! That’s quite a bit! Glad I could help!
Awesome thank you sir. Great help
You’re welcome Mike!🤙
Good video. I may look into this. Mines 1996 f250 2wd. Lots of tire noise after new tires installed without an alignment. I'm wondering of this will assist on removing that noise?
Thanks!🤙 Nice! So if your front end is misaligned you could have a little extra tire noise. In general it’s a good idea to make sure that your front end alignment is good.
Ty brother....dig it...
No problem man!🤙 Thanks!
On the drivers side would you spin the other direction to pull the wheel in board?
A Bustamante I kind of forget. I always have to remind myself but you might be correct.
Hope you still see these. I have a 1988 f350 with the same set up minus one slight difference....THE SWAY BAR!!!!! Was that to fix a problem or just to upgrade the system entirely? Would love to see a video on that.
Hi Dustin!
Sway bars are definitely an upgrade for sure. Looking back I would have added one to the rear first.
Thank you sir 👍
No problem man!🤙
I see you turned the passenger steering, ill call it counter clock wise to turn out, do you also turn the driver side in same direction to make it come in, or opposite direction??? my truck has this exact issue.
If I remember correctly, I think the driver side is the opposite direction. You can always look at it and see which way it’s turning.
Amused. Guy says he’s afraid his Bronco won’t come back in one piece. I’d be afraid for the other guys, bro! Haha!
Hahaha! That’s definitely a way to look at it. I guess I always knew they would live. Lol
I know it's been a minute, haha, but if my steering wheel is sitting too far left, I'd adjust forward on the drag link on the passenger side for "in" and adjust rearward on the driver side for "out?" Does that make sense?
I can’t remember the direction of rotation on the tie rod adjustment sleeves but sounds about right. I made a newer video about toe alignment that might help ya.
I have an 1989 Ford Bronco full size, What would cause the steering wheel to not return when turning a corner ???
That can be fixed with a proper alignment. If your caster gets adjusted correctly, your steering wheel (with input from the wheels) will return to center. Think of grocery cart from wheels. They always face back when you move forward.
was your truck pulling to the right or left? mines pulling to the right so Iam think i have to do the opposite adjustment your doing
My truck drove straight. The steering wheel just didn’t point straight with the wheels.
But that sounds like the correct fix for you.
You only needed to adjust the right side if it takes off to the right?
Technically you need to adjust both sides to make sure you maintain the proper toe. At the time of filming this, I didn’t mind having a little more “toe in.”
Does this work in a FORD f150 4wd Twin Beam suspension?
Fabrizio Lanata It sure does!🤙
Hey nice video but didn’t you turn passenger side on wrong direction? I think for passenger side you turn counterclockwise to toe out…
I can’t remember exactly but I did correct the steering wheel orientation.
F150XLT.. lots of tire noise..when I turn the steering wheel to the right it goes away..the steering does not shake.. just noisy.. What do you think I should adjust..Thanks Pedro in Texas..
So you have tire (rubber rubbing on something) noise when you are going straight?
I did that on a 95 suburban 2500....fun stuff 😁
Leatherkid01 Nice! Is a suburban drag link or rack and pinion?
@@TheMinuteMasters in 95...drag link with steering box ...same set up....and being in Canada, those nut and bolt on the sleeves...tend to seize or snap...so have some handy for replacement. Just in case 😉. GM didnt switch to rack and pinion till 2007
Leatherkid01 Gotcha! I didn’t think about that! Mine only need a little penetrating oil to free up. Damn! GM came a little late to the party. I think around 97-98 Ford switched to rack and pinion.
@@TheMinuteMasters nice... Never had a 97+ ford full sized truck ( other than explorers)....cause of their popping spark plug issue
Leatherkid01 Yeah me either for the same reason and the tritons have the cam phaser problem.
So I would only have to adjust one side ( there's one on each end) and not both of them right? I just installed a Redhead steering gear and my steering wheel is off about 5-10 degrees now. Truck is a '94 F-150 XLT 4x4. Thanks in advance!
Jim You’ll need to adjust both ends for both wheels to be straight and lined up in the same direction. Nice! I hear Redheads are good! Good year!
No problem man!🤙
Thank you very much for the info my friend!
Jim No problem man!🤙
Did you already have the steering wheel straightened during the process? I've heard many things about the wheel being set straight or turned
I had the steering wheel turned straight. However, from driving around, I remember which direction I needed to make an adjustment.
@@TheMinuteMasters awesome, thank you!
I wonder if you could help me out with the concern I have. My Tacoma’s lower control arm hit the bump while was doing off road, Since then it pulls to the side that hit the bottom. I have done the alignment and they adjusted the camber castor bolts which were loose. It fixed by 50% I could say but the steering goes mild to the right position. They says it’s alignment is perfect but I don’t feel the way it use to be. Can you shed some light.
Thanks
When does the steering wander to the right? While accelerating or braking?
@@TheMinuteMasters on acceleration. When I leave the steering wheel it tilt slight to the right angle.
My left tire on my F150 2007 Triton four-wheel drive is kind of like bouncing up and down when I drive I can't really go fast and I haven't really went for but I just put a new control arm on the bottom and a new control arm on the top I would just do my alignment and it should be fine right
I’d make sure everything is bolted correctly and there are no cracks in the frame or mounts.
It sounds like a really bad shock or a really bad alignment. I’d try to check both.
With your truck sitting level on the ground, push down hard on the bumper and release quickly. If the front end bounced a lot, it’s a bad shock.
If it's bouncing, I would guess it's wheel balance, not alignment.
It's my work truck and I need it in the morning so in the morning for me would be 4 hours from now I've been working on it for 3 days
Hey steve have ever thought about converting your truck to four wheel drive?
Joe Dirt I actually have! Most guys will and probably have told you just to buy a 4x4 truck. The reason they say this is 1) it’s a ton of work. 2) It costs more to do the conversion than to buy another. I’ve estimated it to be between 2k and 3k without a donor truck. 3) the biggest hurtle to overcome is the 2wd frame is different from 4wd. So you have to cut and weld a 4wd frame into your truck. (This could be different from solid axle trucks.) After I learned all of that, I just had to settle for my 2wd. I would like to buy a 4wd in the future though. In the meantime, I’m going do a prerunner mid travel suspension.
I'm a minute master also, but in a different subject...lol...great video, thanks!!!
😂😂😂
U put both tire rod and same dimension of separation?
Somewhat. I matched the existing tie rod setup.
so my steering wheel turn left so do front wheels got to be adjusted to left
Yup, adjust the wheels left and that should get them lined up. 🤙
I'm assuming you tighten those bolts back up before the test drive? Thanks,
Yup
@@TheMinuteMasters Does it have to be on jackstands to do it?
@@gsschneck technically no. You can just rack up one side at a time and make an adjustment.
All very good content and info, but a string line helps it go by faster so you don't have to drive after every quarter turn.
Very true!
So if my front tires are toed in, I need to adjust the tie rods and spin them towards the back of the truck, correct?
Ethan Price You got it man!🤙
Trust me about $300 with shipping RockAuto was able to replace all those parts and my steering feel nice and tight now
Yup! I’ve seen that package. I may do that to freshen up the drag link steering parts.
I'm a class b tech for a suspension company. If you have seen what I've seen with rock auto parts u wouldn't have them. Dont bet your life on them I've seen almost every type of suspension part fail in brand new condition including tie rod ends ball joints control arms sway bar etc. I also have pictures of their failed parts. You can go off a 1 time experience if you want I've been seeing there failures for almost 20 years straight.
@@mikemiller5565 well my career has gone everywhere from the auto wreckers to installing Detroit 92s in a diesel buses along with the associated suspension work and if you keep it Factory stock the way the engineers intended it unless you're buying made in China junk which I don't I buy more the other known Brands I've never had a failure the only failures I've ever seen on any vehicle is they were modified lifted and taken away from the stock engineering and that's always a big problem I will never buy a vehicle that's been modified or lifted like that a truck that's just trashed everything from the bearings to all the steering Knuckles so it's called a little bit of experience brother keep it stock the way the engineers intended it
@@mikemiller5565 PS Dodge did have a bunch of steering parts they met they manufactured in '05 that actually went bad and they had to recall quite a few trucks and change his drain Parts due to bad casting on the steering parts but that's a real rare item they're heavily tested when they're manufactured
@@mikemiller5565 Out of curiosity, what would your recommendation be for brand/source then? I’ve got an ‘86 F150 and all the local junk lots have toasted tie rods I can’t salvage.
Ty ty ty.
Christopher Prado No problem man!🤙
My top of steering wheel is at about 2 oclcock maybe 2:30. Would that be able to fix it? And I was wondering my front end vibrates after like 50mph new wheel bears and I bought ball joints and axle pivot bushings and radius arm bushing where replaced last year. Any idea what could be causing it.
Jon Zidek Yeah you should be able to correct that. It’s at east worth a try. So vibrations are a hard think to pin down. It sounds like your front end is good. There isn’t much to the back end. How old are your tires and when were they last balanced?
Tires are alittle old. 33x12.5x15’s on a level kit
I haven’t replaced the axle pivot bushings or ball joints yet. Just got them in the mail from mooj
Jon Zidek How old would you say? Did you ever rotate them? Are they worn weird?
Jon Zidek Gotcha. Then definitely replace those and see what happens.
If u wanna get technical the name of the steering is HALTENBERGER LINKAGE
Really? Now that’s so good million dollar trivia!🤙 Thanks for sharing man!
Do you lnow what size socket this needs? To loosen?
Good question. I don’t remember exactly. Probably 3/4 or 13/16.
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks! You should totally make a video showing how to replace the transfer case shifter 😂
@@Broncosfan008 you’re welcome! So my truck is 2wd. But…I am converting to 4x4. So I probably could make that video in the future.
@@TheMinuteMasters Oh duh lol I forgot you had mentioned that it's 2x2 before. Yeah from what I'm seeing I should be able to do pretty much everything up top from the hole already there. I literally just bought this rough 95 f150 beater and your videos have been super helpful! Definitely appreciate them since I've never worked on cars/trucks at all lol.
I use string from rear tire to front tire..
Works good too...
classic287 I have seen that method. It definitely works!🤙
Uuuh ig i messed up, i didnt hold the tie rod end in place i just turned it, what will happen if i dont hold it in place? Its a 2018 f150
That sucks, but it’s not too bad. If you turned the adjusting knuckle in the tire rod and turned with it the only thing you’ll end up doing is putting your tire rod at an awkward angle which may cause premature wear of the rubber boot.
@@TheMinuteMasters oh dam idk how it goes, it has to be leveled? The tie rod end
@@mrbimbo3917 It’s not too hard. Just level it as best you can with eye sight. It doesn’t have to be perfect.
Just drop tie rod and turn wheal straight put string rear front keep on rear front tire adjust rods put on keep joint straight y axels straight any rig with front 4x4 tow in and are straight inner outer s period
If you want to set neutral toe then with both front wheels set on turn plates (you can't adjust toe with the tires on the ground) turn the steering wheel left and right and return it to center. get out and jounce the frond end to unload the suspension. Take a tape measure and measure the distance between one tread groove one the front of left tire to the same groove on the front of the right tire. Write down your measurement. Then bring your tape to the rear of the front tires. Using the same grooves you used in the front measure the same distance groove to groove. Write that down. If the two measurement are exactly the same then the toe is 0 degrees. There is equal distance b/w the front and rear of the front tires. This will give you no toe wear on your tires but vehicle manufacturers don't set vehicles up this way. They like to have like .25 degrees toe in. Meaning the front tires are closer in the front than they are the rear. /\ This helps cornering the tiniest amount or if you are drag racing it helps make the car go straight down the track. For trucks they set them .25 toed out \/. This increases handling stability. These are just general numbers and not vehicle specific. You have to split the difference in half and adjust each side by that much so if its one inch then you need to adjust the left side half and inch and the right side half and inch. This is how you keep your steering wheel straight. If you adjusted the difference all on one side you would end up with a crooked steering wheel when going down the road. Camber and caster have more to do with how a vehicle handles than does toe. If you have a truck like this or any vehicle that has an actual steering box you can "tighten" up the steering some by loosening the top nut on top of the steering box with a wrench while using a flat head screwdriver to hold the screw in the center of it. Turn the screw an b/w a 16th to no more than an 8th of an inch (1/16 - 1/8) to the right then lock down the nut while holding the screw in the same location never letting it turn any direction any further. That screw places pressure inside the steering gear box. If you turn it too tight you can't turn the steering at all which sound like you can just loosen it up but it not that simple. That screw is supposed to have so much torque. Too much and you might be able to turn the steering wheel but the steering gear box could break internally and you lose control of the vehicle b/c you just lost physical connection with the steering from your steering wheel to the part the steering box moves. It's better to have it too loose than too tight. Just keep it the change withing the amount I suggest and you should be fine.
James J Beuerlein Good to know man!🤙 So when I filmed this video I only adjusted one side on camera. Once, I was finished filming, I adjusted both. I had the alignment done at a shop but they never get my steering wheel exactly centered. So more of a steering wheel adjustment then an actually suspension alignment fix. But again, thanks for the info.
@@TheMinuteMasters crgllc.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Hunter-DSP-600-Alignment-Machine.jpg This is the last alignment machine I ever used a Hunter DSP 600. As far as your steering wheel being crooked I could set your steering wheel 90 degrees turned and have your toe set perfect. When the tech gets out of the vehicle he is supposed to center the steering visually then put a steering wheel lock which hold the wheel in position by puttign pressure b/w two arms that are against the bottom of the steering wheel and a pedestal that sits pressed into the drivers seat. That way when you start moving toe settings you are going to move them so that the toe is parallel to the straight steering wheel. If the wheel is slightly crooked. You will have a crooked steering wheel but the tires won't wear. ***Some crooked shops will show you a spec sheet with the wheels turned and the toe on the left and right will show red or out of alignment. DISREGARD that.*** What you look for is total toe which is the allowable range b/w the two toe settings. If that is red then the toe is actually out and you really need an alignment. If the steer ahead is red and the total toe is green then the steering wheel is just crooked and they should ask you if you want the alignment or not. Some shops will just say you agreed to an alignment but I say a crooked steering wheel is not an alignment. Its cosmetic and doesn't affect tire wear. www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xk8-xkr-x100-17/55627d1379849494-hunter-alignment-checks-any-good-kwikfit%25203.jpg
Thank you for the comment. I'm in the process of doing just this on my 1994 f150 4x4 and I'm clueless. I'm in the process of replacing tie rods, axle pivot bushings & radius arm bushings. Thanks for the information.
Do I need to have my steering wheel locked or unlocked?
It can be locked. You check have to remember how much of an adjustment you are trying to make.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thank you! Your video really helped
@@nikkodelacruz9275 You’re welcome Nikko!🤙
Adjust both tie rods, correct?
For minor corrections, you can adjust one side. If you are doing large corrections, I would adjust both.
thanks for the help gonna try this when all the snow is melted off my truck LOL
Scott LaVine No problem! 🤙 That’s why I was able to do mine! Lol
I do electronic alignment on my ford expedition 2006 and still play right and left on highway i cant go straight
So an alignment will get you straight. If your expedition likes to veer/pull to one particular side I’d say that’s an alignment issue. If your expedition will veer to either side there’s a couple of things that affect that. If alignment is straight and you have play to either side, I’d look at your ball joints and tie rod ends. If they are worn, you will have some play. If those two fixes don’t do it, you might have too much “toe in” and need more “toe out” (think pointing you toes inward or your toes out ward. “Toe in”makes turning fast and or dodgy. It takes more work to keep the vehicle pointed straight. “Toe out”will make steering less responsive and make you stay straighter. An ideal alignment for a DD is slight negative camber, slight toe out, and slight positive caster.
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks
@@soufyanedz9688 No problem man!🤙
Will it work on ford econoline
I can’t remember exactly but I think the E-series vans had the same steering setup.
Yea mine looks just like it cool
1 quarter on both sides?
So to adjust my steering I had to turn it 1 quarter on both sides. You may need more turns. But you definitely have to adjust both sides if you want both wheels to be parallel (assuming they are parallel already).
My steering has always had too much play in it. The garage said they could figure out where it was loose. When I'm driving, the wheel is back and forth as I constantly correct it to keep it in the lane. It's a '96.
Jason Anders So I think the drag link steering isn’t terribly precise. However I’ve seen the most improvement from my new steering box and new ball joints. The rag joint in the steering column can get worn too. It’s honestly a process of elimination.
Thanks. I'll get help checking them. @@TheMinuteMasters
Jason Anders You’re welcome Jason!🤙 Good luck!
Camas try box loosen but and hold tip tire iron twerp stem 1/4 in mice mental and relighted
@@davyboybunkia4586 Como?
Good video but I think you have your Out and In marks backwards.
Scott Harrison Thanks! I probably have the marks backwards but I definitely turned it the way I wanted too. Lol
Im suprised these trucks dont have an idler arm
Trex264 I know right! It makes sense though. The I beam suspension pivots almost dead center under the truck. So the pivot point for the steering can only be located in one location.
Spray some PB Blaster Surface Shield under there and up in Rear Fenderwells. Rust Fighter and Prevention, UA-cam it
That’s a good idea! I have several cans of fluid film that I typically use.
MY truck only has an adjustment on the driver side ?!~
Really?? I wonder how they came up with that idea.
Lots of different f150s
I wish it was this simple on my 2014 F-150
I think you have rack and pinion steering. So that’s definitely a little more complicated.
You need a new ball joint.
Why do you say that? Those ball joints are fairly new.
@@TheMinuteMasters 😂Hah , ha, ha,hah... you're a riot!
let me tell you my life story, then I will give you a very brief explanation.
Yep I hear ya. All my new videos have cut out the life story. I also show the work and explain while doing the steps.
@@TheMinuteMasters sorry I was a jerk. I was in a hurry, got some serious pressure on me right now, just got a truck I need on the road now, I replaced the steering linkage, thought my alignment was way off, but I put my steering stabilizer bracket on the wrong way. I make some videos too, not the best for sure, I know how hard it is to do the job and make a video too, I have respect for you for doing it.
@@artamus73 Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate you commenting back. We’ll all had moments of pressure. I totally get it.
Videoing is tough while working. I was just saying the other day that podcasting must be so nice because there is no video. Lol
This is not the linkage on a 2006 so why would you show this video it's not a 2006
This isn’t a 2006 and nowhere does it say it’s for a 2006.
I don’t even have the same truck to copy what ur doing that trucks old
This should be somewhat similar to newer vehicles too. However, newer vehicle, sometimes have you on install the end of the tie rod to make adjustments.
What a pain in the dick. They couldn't just design a steering wheel spline shaft so that the wheel could be removed and replaced at any position, they had to make it so that you have to jack up your front end and fuck up the alignment just to move the wheel a bit. Forget it I'm ok with a crooked steering wheel.
I know right! If you install the Borgeson steering shaft, you can make the adjustment at the steering shaft.👌
@@TheMinuteMasters I didn't know about that, I'll have to check it out, thanks
56 years of front end alignment. This is total bs. Please don't make any more videos till somebody teaches you front end alignment.
56 years is quite an impressive résumé, but I have a hard time believing this is 100% bad advice.
Every time I brought my truck back from the alignment shop the steering wheel never pointed in a straight direction. So every time it was my job to get the steering wheel to point straight. Once I was finished, I could be going, high speeds and let go of the wheel and it will still drive straight and the steering wheel would point straight as well. So what exactly did I do wrong?
Bla bla bla bla bla
This didn’t help you?
@@TheMinuteMasters it really is a good video but if you learn how to edit whenyou work, and explain at the same time that would be awesome, you might want to watch other videos that do that and while explaining they go and say what they're doing with a separate audio... I hope I was able to explain myself lol.
I guess my point is that you talked to much while I waited for you to make a move every time.
@@toronjanahera1143 Good point Toronja! I actually planning on redoing this video and my style has changed. I use a tripod now and I try to do the work as I’m talking.