I consider this fine craftsmanship,..it is therapeutic, a distraction from the craziness going on in the streets of America. Finding the water line is the same eyeballing, as taping a car for two tone or pinstripes. The eye knows lol.
I'm just noticing the moving camera shots for the first time (25:00min). New? Whether it's the choice of music or non-verbal description of older videos, your quality productions are always a great compliment to the amazing content and craftsmanship that you share with us. This is is great stuff!
I've been experimenting with a slider. Some of editing choices are just a matter of what I had available for video, when I missed the shot with my primary camera.
When you sleepin? Many folks take a week to get their edits done, and you're working on a boat and cranking out the videos daily wow! Just sold a Stanley Side Rabbit like that. But I had two.
I am doing the barest minimum of editing. With the Petrel Play series, it was taking me 2 to 3 days per video to get them into shape. That was using too much of my time out of my boat building schedule. With these, I'm giving myself about 3-4 hours, previewing as I go. So, there is a loss of production values, but I'm I have time to work on the kayak which is really the priority. If I start slipping on the delivery schedule of the boat, the videos will have to wait. But, I'm getting into the swing of it a bit, so it is getting easier. Now, I just need to remember to check the microphone batteries so I don't record an hour of silent video.
Hey Nick. Do you have a favorite masking tape brand for banding/clamping and covering your forms. When I use the hot melt glue, the masking tape often tends to pull off the forms. Great job on the videos.
Chuck Knott I’ve tried a variety of solutions for protecting the form edges when hot-gluing. Like you say tape can peel up. I’ve also used no tape and just coated the edges with shellac. This worked OK, but doesn’t really keep glue/epoxy from sticking. The trick is to make sure you don’t use too much glue between strips, and with tight joints epoxy won’t seep through. If you do use tape, I think the green 3M tape I use works well because it sticks well. The trick is also to be sure the strips don’t have much desire to pull away from the forms buy pre-twisting strips with a heat gun if necessary.
how thick are the stripes you use? i believe you got 3/4 wide by 17ft, but how thick do you make them? I must have missed the explanation somewhere ...
On my accent strips, that I used light WRC, in time they darkened quite a bit. I've switched to Aspen now, and they stay light colored. Have you tried Aspen
Western red cedar does change color with time. The lights get darker and the darks get lighter. I have not tried aspen. The Alaskan yellow cedar works very well.
My first side rabbet was the Veritas. I like it a lot. I still use it. As we speak, I am editing a video where I discuss my rabbet planes. The only downside to it vs the Stanley #79, is I need to switch the fence over from side to side if I want to switch directions. But, it works great.
Could you use purflings for accents like the ones guitarbuilders use ? Thats plastic and would surely stop any bleeding from the staining.....or is it heresy ;-)
senocon had the same idea. I think it would probably work. 32 feet would be required for this boat. I'm not exactly sure the process that would be needed to install it, but, I'm sure it could be done.
In the guitar building world, these strips are called purfling. Nick, you might want to check with Gurian Instruments, as they are one of the big suppliers to the lutherie industry, and they will make up custom purflings for marine use. Hope this is helpful! www.gurianinstruments.com
One thing that is different with purfling from what I am doing is, they are thin veneers intended to be inset into the surface. The stripes I made are going all the way through the kayak shell. As such I have the reference lines on the strongback to guide my work. While I really like the look of many of the purfling and banding options available, cutting a straight groove on a 3D compound is non trivial. By doing what I have done with this waterline, I don't need to make one exact cut, I can continue to remove material until it is straight. By easing in on the line, I don't need to do anything very tricky, just cut until its right. My reference lines are consistent and easy to find. To do an inlay, you do it after the surface is stripped up. You are left with no reference on the surface to guide in the placement of the inlay. Any groove created is dependent on the accuracy of the placement any guides you must create. Without the reference of the forms on the strongback, you need to come up with some other guidance system. I'm absolutely positive it could be done. I have several ideas on how to do it, but what I have done here is actually relatively trivial to accomplish. 20 minutes with a jig made from plywood scrap and rabbet plane. To see what can be done with this kind of work check out ua-cam.com/video/qra_1r9Yx1M/v-deo.html (I just would not have bothered with the cove and bead)
Nick Schade Another idea could be to inlay the purfling strip into one of your normal strips before putting it on the boat . Would be easy enough to cut the slot on a table saw. 😁
Of course, then I would have to be careful to not chew through it when I fair the surface. The whole surface will be scraped, planed and sanded. Keep the ideas coming, it is great to have some cross fertilization with other crafts.
I consider this fine craftsmanship,..it is therapeutic, a distraction from the craziness going on in the streets of America. Finding the water line is the same eyeballing, as taping a car for two tone or pinstripes. The eye knows lol.
I really like this series of videos. It's helping me with the craftsmanship and artistic aspects of boat building.
I'm just noticing the moving camera shots for the first time (25:00min). New? Whether it's the choice of music or non-verbal description of older videos, your quality productions are always a great compliment to the amazing content and craftsmanship that you share with us. This is is great stuff!
I've been experimenting with a slider. Some of editing choices are just a matter of what I had available for video, when I missed the shot with my primary camera.
Hello Nick.Very interesting plane. And as it is called. Thank you.
Side Rabbet Plane. It is a Stanley #79.
OK.Thank you
Looking for my revel bevel. I sent my info and paid for it. Do you know if you received it
When you sleepin? Many folks take a week to get their edits done, and you're working on a boat and cranking out the videos daily wow! Just sold a Stanley Side Rabbit like that. But I had two.
I am doing the barest minimum of editing. With the Petrel Play series, it was taking me 2 to 3 days per video to get them into shape. That was using too much of my time out of my boat building schedule.
With these, I'm giving myself about 3-4 hours, previewing as I go. So, there is a loss of production values, but I'm I have time to work on the kayak which is really the priority. If I start slipping on the delivery schedule of the boat, the videos will have to wait.
But, I'm getting into the swing of it a bit, so it is getting easier. Now, I just need to remember to check the microphone batteries so I don't record an hour of silent video.
Hey Nick. Do you have a favorite masking tape brand for banding/clamping and covering your forms. When I use the hot melt glue, the masking tape often tends to pull off the forms. Great job on the videos.
Chuck Knott I’ve tried a variety of solutions for protecting the form edges when hot-gluing. Like you say tape can peel up. I’ve also used no tape and just coated the edges with shellac. This worked OK, but doesn’t really keep glue/epoxy from sticking. The trick is to make sure you don’t use too much glue between strips, and with tight joints epoxy won’t seep through.
If you do use tape, I think the green 3M tape I use works well because it sticks well. The trick is also to be sure the strips don’t have much desire to pull away from the forms buy pre-twisting strips with a heat gun if necessary.
@@NickSchade Thanks for the tips, Nick. I'm learning.
how thick are the stripes you use? i believe you got 3/4 wide by 17ft, but how thick do you make them? I must have missed the explanation somewhere ...
These are 3/16" thick
@@NickSchade thank you, happy new year
Could you use banding from guitars, like herringbone for the ascent strips? thank you for the video series.
Yes, you probably could. I haven't tried, but I'm sure its possible. Of course, for this kayak you would need 32 feet of it.
On my accent strips, that I used light WRC, in time they darkened quite a bit. I've switched to Aspen now, and they stay light colored. Have you tried Aspen
Western red cedar does change color with time. The lights get darker and the darks get lighter. I have not tried aspen. The Alaskan yellow cedar works very well.
Aspen is available to me, I haven't seen any Yellow Cedar around here.
Any thoughts on using the Veritas® Side Rabbet Plane?
My first side rabbet was the Veritas. I like it a lot. I still use it. As we speak, I am editing a video where I discuss my rabbet planes.
The only downside to it vs the Stanley #79, is I need to switch the fence over from side to side if I want to switch directions. But, it works great.
Could you use purflings for accents like the ones guitarbuilders use ? Thats plastic and would surely stop any bleeding from the staining.....or is it heresy ;-)
senocon had the same idea. I think it would probably work. 32 feet would be required for this boat.
I'm not exactly sure the process that would be needed to install it, but, I'm sure it could be done.
In the guitar building world, these strips are called purfling. Nick, you might want to check with Gurian Instruments, as they are one of the big suppliers to the lutherie industry, and they will make up custom purflings for marine use. Hope this is helpful!
www.gurianinstruments.com
One thing that is different with purfling from what I am doing is, they are thin veneers intended to be inset into the surface. The stripes I made are going all the way through the kayak shell. As such I have the reference lines on the strongback to guide my work.
While I really like the look of many of the purfling and banding options available, cutting a straight groove on a 3D compound is non trivial.
By doing what I have done with this waterline, I don't need to make one exact cut, I can continue to remove material until it is straight. By easing in on the line, I don't need to do anything very tricky, just cut until its right.
My reference lines are consistent and easy to find. To do an inlay, you do it after the surface is stripped up. You are left with no reference on the surface to guide in the placement of the inlay. Any groove created is dependent on the accuracy of the placement any guides you must create. Without the reference of the forms on the strongback, you need to come up with some other guidance system.
I'm absolutely positive it could be done. I have several ideas on how to do it, but what I have done here is actually relatively trivial to accomplish. 20 minutes with a jig made from plywood scrap and rabbet plane.
To see what can be done with this kind of work check out ua-cam.com/video/qra_1r9Yx1M/v-deo.html (I just would not have bothered with the cove and bead)
Nick Schade Another idea could be to inlay the purfling strip into one of your normal strips before putting it on the boat . Would be easy enough to cut the slot on a table saw. 😁
Of course, then I would have to be careful to not chew through it when I fair the surface. The whole surface will be scraped, planed and sanded.
Keep the ideas coming, it is great to have some cross fertilization with other crafts.