I decided that with this series I wouldn't try to make a how-to instructional. Instead, I'm just documenting what I'm doing. I'm not necessarily doing it the best or easiest way, and that means I'm making lots of mistakes.
Master!... Master!... you certainly live in Wonderland!... the land you have created for your own in the realm you live is a bit easier than plenty other places in this world... but not many fly so far in creativity. Congratulations from my heart, I cannot but admire your work
Hi, I watch everone of your videos although I am building an Adelie 14 sail boat. But my next project might be a Bateau Mi round chine row boat and I want to strip plank the round part with plywood strips. Thats why I have ordered your book already and with this videos I am thinking staining the wood looks so nice I might also try that. But what fascinates me the most are the lot of small tricks you show us that a retired white collar worker turned hobby boat builder could never think out. This time it was how to cut a rod with a running electric drill just by holding the handsaw against it. Next time I need to cut a threaded rod I will try this trick. Good luck with the finishing of this kayak and I am looking forward to seeing the next episode. Greetings from a sunny Austria
I really enjoy watching you work. it is very informative and does not need a lot of comment. I did give out a curse word when the edge snapped. so you did not have to.
Can't begin to tell you how we appreciate your making the effort to create these videos! Precious as gold! Just a question, a couple of times you're warming the wet epoxy with a heat gun. Is that to drive out the bubbles?
Nick - I really appreciate the care and effort you put into your boats and your videos - thank you for sharing your passion and knowledge! I have a question - when you cut the hole in the hull for the skeg box, why didn't you use the router and a jig like you did for the hole in the deck for the skeg slider?
You may have noticed that I didn't locate the skeg on the center line. It is offset to one side a bit. However, the skeg box is still vertical (Not perpendicular to the bottom where the hole is cut). I cut the hole with a saw so I could make the cut parallel to the sides of the box. A router would have cut perpendicular to the surface, not at the angle needed to keep the box vertical.
Hi Nick, love all the videos! I just received my copy of your Retractable Sea Skeg. I have a couple of questions if you don’t mind. You place the skeg off to one side slightly, some other people I’ve watched place it in the centre, why to the side? Why use the 3 layers of 4mm plywood for the box spacers instead of one piece of 12mm plywood. P.S. the pictures are a little dark in the book, a little lighter would be great! Thanks for any advice you can give!
I offset the skeg to one side because that greatly reduces the chances of rocks getting jammed up into the skeg box. This is a common problem with most skegs because being right on the centerline means that any time you drag the kayak across the ground, it is likely that the skeg is taking the brunt of that abuse. You can use 12mm plywood instead of 3 pieces of 4, if you have it. I didn't want to require that you buy a whole sheet of plywood for a huge amount of money just to make one piece.
There are times when you need to slide a kayak up or down a beach. The center keel line takes the brunt of this abuse. If the skeg is on the keel line it will likely get packed full of sand and gravel, causing the skeg to jam. Offsetting the skeg from the keel by about an inch does a good job of eliminating this issue.
I know that's simply the practical answer, and the attention to function as much as form elevates this from just a wall-mounted piece of art to a beautiful, useful kayak, but... just the thought of this one dragging across gravel makes me incredibly uncomfortable.
Hi Nick, The devil is in the detail isn't it! thanks for showing it, the little details helps a lot! in understanding where the strengths are needed and how to get there. When you glassed the skeg box and the coaming you overlapped the tape a little... are you going to trim the glass at the tape edge ?? Thank you again for the great informative videos.
Noticing, Nick, how you use the squeegees on the inside/outside of the deck and hull (I believe to get the glass right up against the wood strips and to eliminate any excess epoxy), but on the not-so large or flat areas (like the coaming) you only use the paint brush and tamp it down with the epoxy. Is there any difference as to how the glass behaves in either application? Any advantage or weaknesses to the final product that either method produces? Thanks and beautiful work.
It is hard to effectively squeegee the shape of the coaming. I do it sometimes, but didn't bother this time. It is a small area, so it won't effect the weight significantly, but squeegeeing can help the clarity of the layer.
Really enjoyed the episode Nick. I use a white board in the shop to remind me of all the small bits that need epoxy, so I don’t forget something and add Another day to the job. Where do you get your squeeze bottles for the alcohol? Thx
People have been telling me to use a whiteboard for 30 years. It is probably a very good idea. Somehow, I just have never taken to it. Solvent bottle: amzn.to/2r5x1OI
Great series really enjoyed it and learned a lot just a quick question concerning the skeg box is there a reason you didn’t put it dead center in the Hull instead of offset as you did?
Using hot melt glue to hold down the router template looks like a huge timesaver, especially once you're routing all the deck fittings. Have you done it enough to be confident in the strength? Packing tape is reliable, but time consuming and sometimes tricky.
Please excuse my ignorance on some of the nautical nomenclature, the “skeg” box is something I am not familiar with. I have been enjoying the journey of the build, and my one experience in a kayak was a plastic walmart special on a pond. Me being landlocked in the midwest that is. There was no skeg on my banana, now I realize this comparing a dixie cup to a work by Michelangelo, so no slur intended by any means. More or less a fixed rudder that is retractable? Is it something more for open water on the ocean? Thanks again for sharing!
The skeg is like a fixed rudder thats retractable. It provides an added dimension of control to the boat. With the skeg deployed the kayak will track straighter. In windy conditions this can make the boat easier to control. With the skeg retracted the kayak is more maneuverable.
Thanks for showing the breaking of the edge banding on the cheek plate; it happens even to the masters! Sand it down and start again. Just out of curiosity, is that maple? How thick are those bits of wood?
Quick question regarding the skeg control slot, and it may be a dumb question at that. I didn't see you glass the inside of that slot. You did glass over the back side. I assume the control slots are pre made (by you?). Is the fiberglass already on the inside or do you rely on epoxy alone? And do you have a video on how to make them?
I used a skeg box I had already made. I glassed the interior when I made it. I have not yet caught the birth of a skeg box on video. I do have plans and instructions available: www.guillemot-kayaks.com/guillemot/catalog/accessory_plans/sea_kayak_retractable_skeg_plans?UA-cam&E47
Nick just a question about fillet when you have applied it how long are you leaving cure before you do any overcoating with matt and resin? is it still soft or semi firm?
I applied the cloth while the fillet was still wet. While I need to be careful not to mess up the fillet, it just saves some steps and keeps the project moving.
hi nick. my name is Shane Blankenship. im from Newnan Ga, 40 miles south of Atl. im a 35 year carpenter and i really love the video`s. im going to build my son one of these. he`s a war veteran and works for the core of eenginers. my question is what is the function of the skeg box?
The skeg is a little fin that can be deployed at the back of the kayak to help it track straighter. It can also be retracted for more maneuverability. The box contains the skeg when it is retracted.
One thing I really like about these videos is that you also show when things don't exactly go as planned and show how you remedy it. Thanks Nick!
I decided that with this series I wouldn't try to make a how-to instructional. Instead, I'm just documenting what I'm doing. I'm not necessarily doing it the best or easiest way, and that means I'm making lots of mistakes.
Master!... Master!... you certainly live in Wonderland!... the land you have created for your own in the realm you live is a bit easier than plenty other places in this world... but not many fly so far in creativity. Congratulations from my heart, I cannot but admire your work
Hi, I watch everone of your videos although I am building an Adelie 14 sail boat. But my next project might be a Bateau Mi round chine row boat and I want to strip plank the round part with plywood strips. Thats why I have ordered your book already and with this videos I am thinking staining the wood looks so nice I might also try that. But what fascinates me the most are the lot of small tricks you show us that a retired white collar worker turned hobby boat builder could never think out. This time it was how to cut a rod with a running electric drill just by holding the handsaw against it. Next time I need to cut a threaded rod I will try this trick. Good luck with the finishing of this kayak and I am looking forward to seeing the next episode. Greetings from a sunny Austria
I really enjoy watching you work. it is very informative and does not need a lot of comment. I did give out a curse word when the edge snapped. so you did not have to.
Thanks for your assistance.
Nick, good afternoon. Great, this video helped me a lot. Great job. Beautiful music. :-)
Looks sharp Nick.
Can't begin to tell you how we appreciate your making the effort to create these videos! Precious as gold!
Just a question, a couple of times you're warming the wet epoxy with a heat gun. Is that to drive out the bubbles?
Hi Bill, Thanks for your support. I use the heat gun to pop bubbles and sometimes to help level the epoxy.
Nick - I really appreciate the care and effort you put into your boats and your videos - thank you for sharing your passion and knowledge! I have a question - when you cut the hole in the hull for the skeg box, why didn't you use the router and a jig like you did for the hole in the deck for the skeg slider?
You may have noticed that I didn't locate the skeg on the center line. It is offset to one side a bit. However, the skeg box is still vertical (Not perpendicular to the bottom where the hole is cut). I cut the hole with a saw so I could make the cut parallel to the sides of the box. A router would have cut perpendicular to the surface, not at the angle needed to keep the box vertical.
Ah! Nice. Thanks!
Details, hate doing them, love looking at them..
Hi Nick, love all the videos! I just received my copy of your Retractable Sea Skeg. I have a couple of questions if you don’t mind. You place the skeg off to one side slightly, some other people I’ve watched place it in the centre, why to the side? Why use the 3 layers of 4mm plywood for the box spacers instead of one piece of 12mm plywood.
P.S. the pictures are a little dark in the book, a little lighter would be great! Thanks for any advice you can give!
I offset the skeg to one side because that greatly reduces the chances of rocks getting jammed up into the skeg box. This is a common problem with most skegs because being right on the centerline means that any time you drag the kayak across the ground, it is likely that the skeg is taking the brunt of that abuse.
You can use 12mm plywood instead of 3 pieces of 4, if you have it. I didn't want to require that you buy a whole sheet of plywood for a huge amount of money just to make one piece.
Excellent as usual!!! Just curious! Why did you place the skeg box off center? I don’t see how it would affect tracking but it looks -off center-...
There are times when you need to slide a kayak up or down a beach. The center keel line takes the brunt of this abuse. If the skeg is on the keel line it will likely get packed full of sand and gravel, causing the skeg to jam.
Offsetting the skeg from the keel by about an inch does a good job of eliminating this issue.
I know that's simply the practical answer, and the attention to function as much as form elevates this from just a wall-mounted piece of art to a beautiful, useful kayak, but... just the thought of this one dragging across gravel makes me incredibly uncomfortable.
Hi Nick, The devil is in the detail isn't it! thanks for showing it, the little details helps a lot! in understanding where the strengths are needed and how to get there. When you glassed the skeg box and the coaming you overlapped the tape a little... are you going to trim the glass at the tape edge ?? Thank you again for the great informative videos.
Yes, I trimmed the glass at the tape after the epoxy had set up for a while. I didn't set up the camera for that so no video.
Noticing, Nick, how you use the squeegees on the inside/outside of the deck and hull (I believe to get the glass right up against the wood strips and to eliminate any excess epoxy), but on the not-so large or flat areas (like the coaming) you only use the paint brush and tamp it down with the epoxy. Is there any difference as to how the glass behaves in either application? Any advantage or weaknesses to the final product that either method produces? Thanks and beautiful work.
It is hard to effectively squeegee the shape of the coaming. I do it sometimes, but didn't bother this time. It is a small area, so it won't effect the weight significantly, but squeegeeing can help the clarity of the layer.
Hi Nick, one question how do I calculate the right position of the skeg on the kayak
Really enjoyed the episode Nick. I use a white board in the shop to remind me of all the small bits that need epoxy, so I don’t forget something and add Another day to the job. Where do you get your squeeze bottles for the alcohol? Thx
People have been telling me to use a whiteboard for 30 years. It is probably a very good idea. Somehow, I just have never taken to it.
Solvent bottle: amzn.to/2r5x1OI
Hi Nick, I'm struggling to find the SS tubing in Australia. Are the ones you are using 304 or 316 marine grade?
Either would do. Saltwater will attack 304 a bit faster, but if you can rinse it regularly, it will take a long time to do actual damage.
Great series really enjoyed it and learned a lot just a quick question concerning the skeg box is there a reason you didn’t put it dead center in the Hull instead of offset as you did?
I offset the skeg from the centerline so it is less likely to get jammed with sand if the boat is dragged up the beach
Using hot melt glue to hold down the router template looks like a huge timesaver, especially once you're routing all the deck fittings. Have you done it enough to be confident in the strength? Packing tape is reliable, but time consuming and sometimes tricky.
The template wiggled a little, but I've done it this way before. Like the tape, you don't want to push too hard on the template.
Please excuse my ignorance on some of the nautical nomenclature, the “skeg” box is something I am not familiar with. I have been enjoying the journey of the build, and my one experience in a kayak was a plastic walmart special on a pond. Me being landlocked in the midwest that is. There was no skeg on my banana, now I realize this comparing a dixie cup to a work by Michelangelo, so no slur intended by any means. More or less a fixed rudder that is retractable? Is it something more for open water on the ocean? Thanks again for sharing!
The skeg is like a fixed rudder thats retractable. It provides an added dimension of control to the boat. With the skeg deployed the kayak will track straighter. In windy conditions this can make the boat easier to control. With the skeg retracted the kayak is more maneuverable.
Nick Schade thank you!
Here's a fun fact: Your last name means Damage, in Dutch... Great work though! Looks really good!
Thanks for showing the breaking of the edge banding on the cheek plate; it happens even to the masters! Sand it down and start again. Just out of curiosity, is that maple? How thick are those bits of wood?
The edging strips are 1/16" Alaskan yellow cedar. The same material I used for accents on the deck.
Quick question regarding the skeg control slot, and it may be a dumb question at that. I didn't see you glass the inside of that slot. You did glass over the back side. I assume the control slots are pre made (by you?). Is the fiberglass already on the inside or do you rely on epoxy alone? And do you have a video on how to make them?
I used a skeg box I had already made. I glassed the interior when I made it. I have not yet caught the birth of a skeg box on video.
I do have plans and instructions available: www.guillemot-kayaks.com/guillemot/catalog/accessory_plans/sea_kayak_retractable_skeg_plans?UA-cam&E47
Nick just a question about fillet when you have applied it how long are you leaving cure before you do any overcoating with matt and resin? is it still soft or semi firm?
I applied the cloth while the fillet was still wet. While I need to be careful not to mess up the fillet, it just saves some steps and keeps the project moving.
hi nick. my name is Shane Blankenship. im from Newnan Ga, 40 miles south of Atl. im a 35 year carpenter and i really love the video`s. im going to build my son one of these. he`s a war veteran and works for the core of
eenginers. my question is what is the function of the skeg box?
The skeg is a little fin that can be deployed at the back of the kayak to help it track straighter. It can also be retracted for more maneuverability. The box contains the skeg when it is retracted.