Really appreciate you showing all the details to get the proper fit of the strips. Time spent here makes the finish step go much easier. It is my belief that it is the Fit and Finish that is the hallmark of a true Craftsman. Thanks for sharing.
Love the 'on the water' intro and outro. I enjoyed fitting the end of the strips. It's a nice challenge, and the cedar is nice to work with. Definitely time to build another boat, as those good memories were from 20 years ago!
The inner stem doesn't go all the way back to the first station, on your Bootlegger. So you are stripping the ends like I strip my Stemless canoes !. I'm glad you took the time to demonstrate this , As I have a hard time explaining it to others ! I'll now just refer every body to your video ! Incredible series ! Thanks again !
You've got a Scandinavian longboat on your apron, they went across the Atlantic in those a thousand years ago. You cross a lot of waters to, sharing your skills and work.
Hi Nick, excellent work and great tutorial. One thing that I don't understand to - why is there a gap between strip added at 25:04 and the strip on the other side?
Nick, great work as usual! Will have to sign up for your fine strip building class at wooden boat school! Question - how many man hours does it take to apply all the strips?
It depends on if I am trying to capture it on video or not... If I were building this kayak for myself I could probably have it stripped up in 2 or 3 days, using staples. As I'm doing it now for a customer, 5 to 6 days.
Yes, I'm wearing a drysuit. I'm wearing insulating fleece layers underneath. Just the day before there was ice on the river, so the water temperature is still very cold. While I have no expectation of ending up out of my kayak, in the water it is important to dress appropriately for unplanned mistakes. I also find a drysuit and fleece layers to be the most comfortable option. The drysuit is designed with paddling in mind. It allows freedom of motion and just keeps off the general splashes and drips associated with kayaking, so I stay dry and comfortable. The drysuit is goretex so it breaths fairly well.
The earlier videos in this series go over the selection of the woods for the various parts of this boat. And all to a level of detail that is astounding. Nothing has been stained yet, apparently that's coming later. Check them out.
Really appreciate you showing all the details to get the proper fit of the strips. Time spent here makes the finish step go much easier. It is my belief that it is the Fit and Finish that is the hallmark of a true Craftsman. Thanks for sharing.
Love the 'on the water' intro and outro. I enjoyed fitting the end of the strips. It's a nice challenge, and the cedar is nice to work with. Definitely time to build another boat, as those good memories were from 20 years ago!
The inner stem doesn't go all the way back to the first station, on your Bootlegger. So you are stripping the ends like I strip my Stemless canoes !. I'm glad you took the time to demonstrate this , As I have a hard time explaining it to others ! I'll now just refer every body to your video ! Incredible series ! Thanks again !
Looking really good!
Getting fancy with the editing there Nick, nice work.
You've got a Scandinavian longboat on your apron, they went across the Atlantic in those a thousand years ago. You cross a lot of waters to, sharing your skills and work.
that is the logo of WoodenBoat Magazine. They also have a UA-cam Channel with some nice info: ua-cam.com/users/WoodenBoatVideos
Sooo excellent (as usual).
Hi Nick, excellent work and great tutorial. One thing that I don't understand to - why is there a gap between strip added at 25:04 and the strip on the other side?
That last strip on the right side will actually get trimmed down to follow the sheer line, so the end where the gap is will get cut off.
@@NickSchade Hi Nick, thanks everything got clear when I got to the video actually showing how you doing the sheer line :-)
Nick, great work as usual! Will have to sign up for your fine strip building class at wooden boat school!
Question - how many man hours does it take to apply all the strips?
It depends on if I am trying to capture it on video or not...
If I were building this kayak for myself I could probably have it stripped up in 2 or 3 days, using staples. As I'm doing it now for a customer, 5 to 6 days.
How are you liking the skin on frame boat that has been in a couple of the intros? Any conclusions yet?
I have not gotten it out in anything but very flat water yet. The proof will be in rougher water. So, far so good.
Hi Nick thank you for the instructional videos there very good, could you tell me about the gear your wearing ? it looks like a dry suit ??
Yes, I'm wearing a drysuit. I'm wearing insulating fleece layers underneath. Just the day before there was ice on the river, so the water temperature is still very cold. While I have no expectation of ending up out of my kayak, in the water it is important to dress appropriately for unplanned mistakes.
I also find a drysuit and fleece layers to be the most comfortable option. The drysuit is designed with paddling in mind. It allows freedom of motion and just keeps off the general splashes and drips associated with kayaking, so I stay dry and comfortable. The drysuit is goretex so it breaths fairly well.
It is good to warm up with an oar. The ice melted away. And we have -26 С. Laik. :-)
We have been alternating from just below freezing to just above. Last time I went out I needed to break some ice.
Lookes like the darker wood is stained, correct?
Did I miss something, When did you stain the wood?
The earlier videos in this series go over the selection of the woods for the various parts of this boat. And all to a level of detail that is astounding. Nothing has been stained yet, apparently that's coming later. Check them out.
As Andrew said, the darker wood is its natural color. While I do intend to eventually stain it, I have not done so yet.