In place of the tape, have you considered using the spring clamps with a piece of rubber from an innertube? In instances where you are using the tape to align the strips, I think the tape will still be best, but for just applying downward pressure, the innertube trick works rather well. I often used it when applying solid wood to edges of plywood panels when you can not clamp across the entire panel
I have thought about using the bandy clamps. I figured I would need about 70 of them and at $14.99/pair that came out to $525 so I thought about something else. I know some people have made similar clamping systems with spring clamps and pieces of inner tube. I should try something along those lines, but I haven't gotten around to it yet.
It would be interesting to try a couple to see if they have the clamping pressure of the tape. If they work then compare the cost of a clamp to the cost of how much tape you use over the lifetime of a clamp. Factoring in things such as cost to ship/pick up the tape, cost to dispose of the tape, etc.
I use regular Titebond. I find the standard carpenters glue such as TiteBond tacks up more quickly than Titebond II or III which is good when you are trying to work quickly. I am not concerned about it not being waterproof because it will be protected by fiberglass and epoxy when its done.
I think I heard you mention using yellow glue. Is this the standard wood glue that isn’t water resistant? Is this because you later cover the boat in fiberglass so water resistant glue is not a requirement? I was thinking a water resistant glue might be required, but that may be overkill given the overall construction you use. Just curious.
Because the wood is encapsulated in epoxy and fiberglass, it does not get wet so the glue between the strips does not need to be waterproof. I use the standard carpenters glue over the more waterproof options because it works better. It has long open time but tacks up quickly and is stronger than the wood itself.
Hi Nick, using the Robot Bevel , you do not seem to jam with the plane against the forms. it happens to me all the time, as i am using 4,5 mm strips and the rabbit at the Robot Bevel is 6mm. So if i press not only down but also against the form I run into each form a little bit taking away the tape of it at the edges. I was already thinking of putting little shim in the rabbet or am i just using to much pressure. Axel
Make sure the blade itself is centered in the shoulder plane. The tiny thumb screws on the shoulder plane can be hard to tighten, if they come loose, the blade can shift. I do end up scraping some of the tape off sometimes. I don't mind losing a little bit of tape here and there.
I have a question about the Robo-bevel. I got the plane for Christmas, but I cant figure out... Is the robo-bevel so precisely cut that the sole of the veritas plane is aligned to the sole of the robobevel ? Or do I adjust the plane so that the Iron on the plane just prudes further out ?
The bottom of the shoulder plane should ride along the edge of the strip you are beveling. The rest of the tool is really a guide to help you get past the forms and to hold the little shoulder plane tightly down against the strip. I use my hand that is holding the handle closest to the little shoulder plane to drive the tool, pulling it down so the plane is engaged on the strip. My forward hand functions as a guide, lightly pulling the whole tool down the length of the strips. Look through the window where you can see the blade of the shoulder plane and adjust your pressure so the blade is engaged in the wood. I hope this helps.
Man, that robo bevel tool is sheer genius!
That bookmatching is looking terrific. Splendid.
Learning to use your robo bevel...this video helped....still building with bead and cove....I think I'll be ready to use it on the next boat....Thanks
Brilliant strip edge bevel fit solution 👍🏻
I am beginning to repeat myself, Excellent as usual.
In place of the tape, have you considered using the spring clamps with a piece of rubber from an innertube? In instances where you are using the tape to align the strips, I think the tape will still be best, but for just applying downward pressure, the innertube trick works rather well. I often used it when applying solid wood to edges of plywood panels when you can not clamp across the entire panel
I have thought about, I just haven't tried it yet.
Have you considered trying the bandy clamps from Rockler instead of the tape?
I have thought about using the bandy clamps. I figured I would need about 70 of them and at $14.99/pair that came out to $525 so I thought about something else.
I know some people have made similar clamping systems with spring clamps and pieces of inner tube. I should try something along those lines, but I haven't gotten around to it yet.
It would be interesting to try a couple to see if they have the clamping pressure of the tape. If they work then compare the cost of a clamp to the cost of how much tape you use over the lifetime of a clamp. Factoring in things such as cost to ship/pick up the tape, cost to dispose of the tape, etc.
I agree. I don't like taking such a big hit all at once, but if they work well they would probably be worth it.
as a new builder should i buy the robo bevel or cove and bead each piece?
Hello Nick. I use glue Titebond III Ulimate . And you. Thank you. :-)
I use regular Titebond. I find the standard carpenters glue such as TiteBond tacks up more quickly than Titebond II or III which is good when you are trying to work quickly.
I am not concerned about it not being waterproof because it will be protected by fiberglass and epoxy when its done.
Thank you very much
I think I heard you mention using yellow glue. Is this the standard wood glue that isn’t water resistant? Is this because you later cover the boat in fiberglass so water resistant glue is not a requirement? I was thinking a water resistant glue might be required, but that may be overkill given the overall construction you use. Just curious.
Because the wood is encapsulated in epoxy and fiberglass, it does not get wet so the glue between the strips does not need to be waterproof. I use the standard carpenters glue over the more waterproof options because it works better. It has long open time but tacks up quickly and is stronger than the wood itself.
Hi Nick,
using the Robot Bevel , you do not seem to jam with the plane against the forms. it happens to me all the time, as i am using 4,5 mm strips and the rabbit at the Robot Bevel is 6mm. So if i press not only down but also against the form I run into each form a little bit taking away the tape of it at the edges. I was already thinking of putting little shim in the rabbet or am i just using to much pressure. Axel
Where on the tool is it jamming?
not on the robot bevel but at the edge of the blade
Make sure the blade itself is centered in the shoulder plane. The tiny thumb screws on the shoulder plane can be hard to tighten, if they come loose, the blade can shift.
I do end up scraping some of the tape off sometimes. I don't mind losing a little bit of tape here and there.
I have a question about the Robo-bevel. I got the plane for Christmas, but I cant figure out... Is the robo-bevel so precisely cut that the sole of the veritas plane is aligned to the sole of the robobevel ? Or do I adjust the plane so that the Iron on the plane just prudes further out ?
The bottom of the shoulder plane should ride along the edge of the strip you are beveling. The rest of the tool is really a guide to help you get past the forms and to hold the little shoulder plane tightly down against the strip.
I use my hand that is holding the handle closest to the little shoulder plane to drive the tool, pulling it down so the plane is engaged on the strip. My forward hand functions as a guide, lightly pulling the whole tool down the length of the strips.
Look through the window where you can see the blade of the shoulder plane and adjust your pressure so the blade is engaged in the wood.
I hope this helps.
robo bevel=genius!