Coconut Oil as a Cutting Board Finish???
Вставка
- Опубліковано 7 вер 2018
- Organic Coconut Oil (good stuff!) amzn.to/2MUFi65
MCT from Coconut Oil: amzn.to/2MYppeZ
Fractionated Coconut Oil (massage oil): amzn.to/2MVbnKS
(buying from these links helps support this channel, so thank you!)
Have you ever considered using Coconut oil as a cutting board finish? Paul Mayer looks at 3 different types of coconut oil and evaluates their ability to serve as a cutting board finish. - Навчання та стиль
Thanks for both your videos on cutting board finishes. I'm just finishing my chopping board and this really helps. Thank you
You are welcome! Thanks for the feedack. Cheers, Paul
Old hippy here..I use coconut oil to wipe in my flyway dry hair after showers and it absorbs right in never leaving an oily look.. But..back to wood..It's great for use on wood, even morning wood.. ;)
Great tip!
Thanks alot for the information süper helpfull ... :))
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the video. Just FYI: MCT oil and fractionated coconut oil are the same thing. Fractionated simply means a process where all the long chain fatty acids (triglycerides) have been removed and only the medium chain triglycerides (MCT) in the coconut oil remain. It's the long chain fatty acids that give coconut oil its distinctive aroma and make it go rancid over time.
Great info; thanks for sharing, Joe!
Everyone points out the high toxicity of mineral oil but yet Mineral oil is approved for food contact and even consumption by the US FDA.
I’m open to better sources of information but so far I haven’t seen any, and haven’t looked for anything because it’s been used as an ingested medication for over 100 years. I guess I haven’t worried too much about wiping down my cutting board with it. Lots of emotion from the internet echo chamber and no data. What data sources do you use that cause you so much concern? And which organization governs the production of beeswax throughout the US to ensure its safety and consistency so that none of the dangerous manufacturing processes are happening here?
thank you for the responce,I am subscriber to your channel
Thanks for subbing Eldon. Cheers, Paul
Great videos, in my restaurant, I used pure citrus oil that I bought from an essence company in Manhattan. It is expensive but really protects the wood and is an edible oil and it does have some natural citrus wax in it. I also used it on stainless steel as nothing sticks to it and it drys clean. Smells good too.
Do not buy box store or hardware store lemon oil. Its mineral spirits with a tiny bit of lemon essence.
That sounds like an interesting product. Is it available to consumers, or only in the commercial markets? You're right about box store lemon oil (and orange oil as well); it's not food safe. They generally do not make food safe claims on the packaging, but many people make an assumption that they are food safe. Thanks for watching, and for sharing your thoughts here. Cheers, Paul
Hi Paul,
Citrus oil is distilled from the skins and pulp of citrus fruit. It does contain some wax. I have only found it commercially in 3 gallon containers. Like all oil it is flammable. It is about a 2 or 3 wt oil, so it is very thin and penitrates quickly. There is a little evaporation or drying. If I find a vendor, I will post it to you here.
Thanks fir this! I love coconut oil and my brother made me a cutting board. How do I know what kind of board it is? I use my cutting board mostly fir cheese 🧀 nuts 🥜 and fruit display when guests come over. Every 1-2 months.
Hi Jenn, Thanks for the feedback. As far as what kind of cutting board you might have, I assume that you mean end grain vs. long grain. Long grain boards are usually either a single piece of wood, or a combination of strips that run from one end to the other. I'd SWAG that probably 95% of cutting boards are long grain. End grain cutting boards have a noticeable checkered pattern to them. Usually the maker will combine contrasting wood species to accentuate the pattern, but sometimes they are made with a single species. Either way, you can see that there are a bunch of small squares or rectangles glued together to make up the board. And if you look closely, you can see the trees growth rings. If those are on top, you have an end grain board. If they are on the ends, you have a long grain board. Hope this helps. Cheers, Paul
Hi,Paul. Never heard about Coconut oil! My go to for endgrain is. M.O. Then follow up M.O./beeswax. It also smells great! That is my reapply routine also. Your thoughts?
Gary- BarkWorks.
Hi Gary, yep, I agree with you. That's the best way to go in my opinion. Let the Mineral Oil soak all the way though the board, then hit it with beeswax. I did another video on this where I picked that approach as the winner. ua-cam.com/video/uUyQIn6tmFQ/v-deo.html. I think that coconut oil might be a good option for people who cook with it and have it on hand, but then you have to be committed to washing the board regularly to avoid having it go rancid.
idk about wood but the melting point of coconut oil is really low. id guess around 80 degrees. so if you if you apply with your fingers and no rag it will start melting before you make to board. And it is good for dry hands. you will be surprised at how well it all soaks in to your skin leaving very little greasy feel. if that helps
Thanks for sharing your input!
Hey there! Thanks for this video. I'm happy to use coconut oil that I already have. I'm wondering, if using coconut oil for a finish is heat safe? I have a trivet I would like to polish after wood burning. Thanks for your help.
Hi Natalie, thanks for your question. Coconut oil has a smoke point of 350 degrees, so it can take a certain amount of heat, but not a crazy amount. But if it gets beyond that point, any oil that is at the surface will probably turn brown. I haven't tried using it for this application, but my guess is that it would probably be ok. I'd suggest washing it after finishing it to remove any coconut oil from the surface. High heat might draw some of the embedded oil up to the surface. The only type of oil that wouldn't be susceptible to that would be a curing oil such as tung oil or boiled linseed oil.
ToolMetrix thank you for your help! It's much appreciated.
Happy to help. 👍
This is a great tip!!. I saw your previous video too, and I think are great!. I will use my Coconut oil (traditional), but i have a question: ¿what about a brand new cutting board i made? I mean, ¿should I treat it (base coat) with coconut oil too?. ¿What about coconut oil and beas wax combo?.
Thanks!! subbed.
Thanks for your comment, and for subscribing! My first recommendation is to use mineral oil, and/or a mineral oil & wax mixture as I showed in the other video. Coconut oil works to preserve wood and repel water, but I would only use it if I had it on hand, and did not have any mineral oil on hand. This is due to the potential for the coconut oil to go rancid over time. But if you wash it a lot you should be ok. As far as a coconut oil and beeswax combo, I haven't seen this as a commercial product, and if you were going to go to the trouble of making it, I would suggest making it with mineral oil rather than coconut oil. Its a safer bet.
@@ToolMetrix Thank you very much for your time!
About Tung oil, I thing it takes weeks to completely cured and months if you apply thick layers. Anyway, I was wondering if you have tested hemp oil?
Hi Bob, you might be right about tung oil. No, I’ve never tried using hemp oil on a cutting board.
Here is a very interesting video about linseed oil but also very informative about all drying oils. ua-cam.com/video/H4PSMx_jHK8/v-deo.html
I use coconut oil!
Greetings from India.
Thanks for your input!
How about using coconut oil food grade on cedar planks for my van ceiling. Have tried stains and also clear coats like the minwax polycrylic that looks decent. I’m doing a Shou Sugi ban burn then then wire brush first. I tried Star Olive oil that looked better than them all then tried the.coconut oil it looking similar. What’s your thoughts long term being it is in a van
Hi Paul, Sounds like a cool van!!! I wouldn't go the food grade coconut oil route as it will likely go rancid at some point. My first preference would be to use an oil that cures, such as boiled linseed oil or tung oil. Another option would be walnut oil as it will cure, albeit a slow process. For an inexpensive non-curing oil, I would suggest mineral oil. Best of luck, Paul.
ToolMetrix thanks a lot for advice. Interesting that I happened to buy walnut oil and gasometer hemp oil at Walmart yesterday. What do you think of hemp oil?
I haven’t used hemp oil. I’ll have to explore that one. Let me know if you end up using it.
Question: I just bought a new bamboo cutting board, do I wash it first with warm water and soap, let it dry then apply mineral oil. Or should I apply mineral oil it first and then wash it after??
I’d wash it first.
Hi Paul, What would you use on an endgrain cutting board, other than mineral oil?
Mineral oil would be my top choice by far for end grain boards because they suck up so much finish. If you fully saturate and end grain board, which you should, you will rarely have to refresh the finish. I can’t think of anything else that I’d use that isn’t mineral oil based.
@@ToolMetrix Thank you
will the coconut oil go rancid like olive or vegtable oil
Yep it will.
MCT oil and fractionated coconut oil is the same thing
Thanks 🙏
I know this is kinda old but I bet if you used the MCT and bees wax it would do better than just the coconut oil and it wont go rancid as quickly. MCT and fractionated will have 5 year life before it might go rancid.
It would hold up better on the board but I don’t think it would extend the shelf life of the oil. But I might be missing something.
I have heard that organic oils are not food for finishing
They can go rancid. I would not suggest using coconut oil unless you use your board and wash it daily.
Microwave it first. Its liquid then.
Thanks.