There's quite a divide on the topic. My hunch is that once the walnut oil is cured there is virtually no risk, but since there seems to be some concern I just steer clear of it for food contact items. It's a shame because its a really nice finishing product.
I thought the walnut oil nut allergy thing was completely ridiculous, but I wouldn't use walnut oil on my cutting board anyways I would use the mineral oil and wax
@@bigdaddyvince182 It might be ridiculous, but with the small bit of doubt, I don't want to risk a customer's life on it, especially when there are other great options.
@@bigdaddyvince182 mineral oil never cures and will remain gummy and leach out on to stuff over time. walnut oil works great, especially after many cured layers. it acts as a nice polymerized coating.
Thank you for this great video. So thorough and informative. As a person with a nut allergy, I never would have thought of the type of oil. Great video!
I just sanded down my cutting board from 1960. My old tenants put it to good use, it looked disgusting. After using 60/80/220 grit sandpaper, this thing looks beautiful, can't wait to finish it with the oil you recommend. I might even hit it with 300+ grit sandpaper because I'm feeling frisky ;)
@@Roboboy17 I don't use it that often but it's still in perfect condition. I used an oil and conditioner that's for safe and made specifically for cutting boards and the wood is still flawless after light use.
Oomy word look Watching all these videos and people talking it at the end I never got my answer thank you ur a life saver I'm going to make a cutting board for my mom and I wanted to know what's food safe
Great information I use the same process and it works out great. Love the channel in fact it was your testing on the Laguna dust collection was what made my decision to buy the unit and I must say I'm extremely happy with my purchase I've been using it now for about 2+ months and wow what a awesome job it does. Thank You so much!!!
awesome. I found some wood, extremely hard. not sure what it is. I made a cutting board , turned out great and used mineral oil. just happy to see that's what u prefer.
Thanks for the feedback, Kyle. Yep, that is a great approach. A simple finish that is edible! :) I love it because you can refresh it right in the kitchen and it is ready to go instantly.
If you wouldn’t put it in your food or cook with it, don’t use it on your cookware or anything that comes in contact with food. Can’t go wrong with that strategy! Also, the OTC “laxative” mineral oil is the same thing as the “cutting board oil”. They BOTH have vitamin E. If you want it less viscous, warm it up in a hot bowl.
That's great, Bill. I love that finish, but I've felt that cutting boards start to look pretty hacked up if I slice on them when coated with it, and it requires a bit more effort to re-coat. I use it on serving trays and bowls all the time and it is one of my favorite topcoat finishes.
Thanks for the info. I didn't think the beeswax orange conditioner was food safe so I've only used the clear butchers block oil. I'll definitely add this to cutting boards in the future, it makes a great finish.
Hi Sheri, my pleasure. If your son hasn't already made his cutting board, I might suggest a more durable hardwood, as cedar is pretty soft for a cutting board. Maple would be a good option if you have that available.
ToolMetrix ahhh, thank you, I picked it up at a flea market and was hoping that would work as has some beautiful red running through it. I will search for something else, thanks again
I personally use a pure tung oil and citrus solvent 50/50 mix and love the results. The tung oil is sold as food grade. If I didn't do that, I would use a raw linseed. The drying oils are far more durable, in my opinion
Hi Graham, thanks for sharing. Interesting to hear about food grade tung oil. I do love tung oil. I know that some pro cutting board makers use raw linseed oil. It cures, but takes a long time. Cheers, Paul
@ToolMetrix I used to use a beeswax and mineral oil mix and found I had to reapply quite often. The tung oil and citrus solvent has lasted for months now for me. It does have a longer cure time but the results have been great. Thanks for your video and reply🙏
Thanks for your video Paul. I wondered if you would also lightly sand the board surface prior to re-application of oil on a well used board with knife marks.
Hi James, I do not sand during a normal refresh. I have done it on occasion if a board is badly hacked up or stained by strawberries or whatever. But normally just a quick wipe on/off of finish and the board looks great.
Thanks. I prefer plain old mineral oil. I coat it let it sit overnight, then light coat of mineral oil, let dry 1 hourish. Then rub with 50/50 bees wax mineral oil. Buttery finish. Cheers
Nice overview. My experience agrees with yours. Take a look at Doctor's Woodshop sometimes. The author/owner, Mike Meredith, is a retired biochemist who did medical research. He's a member of the NW Woodturners in Portland, OR. As a turner he started making products that he liked better than what was available. He also reviews the performance of the different oils as you do.
Thanks, Mike. I looked at the DW site. Very interesting story, and some great looking products. I'm overstocked on finish products at the moment after doing that video, but when I'm back in the market there are a couple products that he has that I would like to try. Thanks for the tip.
First ToolMetrix video I've watched and I loved it! Thank you for explaining each option so well. I still have no idea which one to choose but I definitely have a better understanding of the pros and cons. I actually purchased a cutting board & cut words into it with a tool. I'm wanting to re-stain or oil the board to seal off where I've cut into. I was going to use a food safe Polyurethane but now feel unsure what option to go with 🤔 Anyway, loved your video! You were made.for the spotlight 🙌🏽😊
Being into cooking I ditched my plastic board for a wood one. I wasnt into wood working then as I am now and wondered why my cutting board has burs. I see now that it isnt finished and I need to sand it and finish it. I got it at walmart for about $20 and I guess the good thing is I washed it and it raised some of the nibs so now it should be good to sand and finish. Not sure if the cheap board is hardwood and I thought about making my own sometime. Thanks for the video, gives me better insight. I did see the laxative min oil for cheap and was wondering if thatd work but i think im gonna get the foodsafe one from HD or Lowes.
Have you ever tried the wipe on poly or the wood bowl finish (they are essentially the same) on your cutting boards, especially end grain, allowing the finish to soak in for 10-15 min, keeping it wet, then wiping off? Both are food safe once cured. The intent being in the end to only have finish in the wood, not a film finish on it. Keep "stuff" from soaking into the wood. Easily "repaired" when needed with a light sanding and repeat the application process. Mineral oil just evaporates with time and has to be added to frequently.
Hi Doug, I haven't tried it but it is a great idea and I will try it. I'll do a video on it if it works well, and I believe that it will. I think I would refresh with mineral oil rather than more poly, however, as it can be done right in the kitchen. I don't think that it would require it very often, however. Thanks for the suggestion.
HI Paul! Could you use the Walnut Oil as a base finish, then apply a MIneral Oil and/or Wax as a final finish? I'm asking about the Walnut Oil because I would like to darken my butcher block before adding the final finish. Thanks for the video, great information.
Hi Carl, I don't think you would have any compatibility problems with that approach, but you might want to just use a product like this on top of your straight walnut oil, rather than switching to mineral oil based products: amzn.to/2lAaBGs
What do you do if you used a stain on your cutting board that is not food safe. I do t use my cutting board for food just storage as it is on a rolling cart. My question is can I seal the stained cutting board with mineral oil or do I need to sand it back down to the orginal cutting board?
In that situation you should sand or plane the board until you are confident that all of the non food-safe finish is gone. Adding mineral oil will not prevent other finish from migrating into the food.
Been using walnut oil on my turnings and charcuterie boards. I disagree on the comment that it takes long for walnut oil to harden (polymerase). It is ease of maintenance makes it my choice. Mineral oil never dries and the poly products can be a pain to maintain the finish.
I use epoxy all the time. I have a large end grain board ( 5.5 ft x 3.5ft) I need to repair, it's broken in half...don't ask. My question is, since the exposed faces to be re-attached have oil on certain areas I'm skeptical that the epoxy will bond to those areas and that the type 3 glue I've used will face the same problem. This piece has taken FOREVER to make, I have now entered the money losing phase and simply want to finish and deliver to the client...any advice might help me to sleep again.
Hi Tom, that's a tough one. I agree with your concern about having adhesion problems, but epoxy should give you a good fighting chance. This is just a hunch so take it for what it's worth, but I think what I would try would be to gently scrub all areas of the joint with warm soapy water, then rinse thoroughly with clean water. Then let it sit for a couple days to let it dry completely. My thinking is that this will remove enough oil from the joint that the epoxy will have the ability to grab pretty well. I would also consider using some biscuits to reinforce the joint. I'd cut the biscuit slots before cleaning the board, because those will need to be cleaned as well. Good luck!
I just finished putting 5 coats of the Howards Conditioner (oil/wax) on my brand new pine butcher block countertops and water still stains it.. I used an entire bottle on just one counter and even let 2 of the coats sit overnight before wiping them off and even though the water drops bead on it, when you wipe it off it leaves a water ring and feels rough when you run your hand across it.. I had to use 0000 steel wool to get the spots out..
Interesting. I've applied this stuff on hundreds of projects and never saw it leave a water mark (there's no water in the product to my knowledge, as I don't believe that it would homogenize with the oil) or make the board rough. Sorry that you have had this experience.
@@ToolMetrix Maybe its the type of wood, mine are birch.. This morning my coffee cup had a little moisture on the bottom and it left a ring that would not wipe off. And if your run your hand across it, it looks and feels like dried up salt water (a white gritty feeling).. I had to use the steel wool again to get it out.. I think im going to the try the poly that you can put over the oil made by John Boos called EZ-DO..
Poly would probably be best in this situation as it would give you the best moisture resistance. I’d suggest applying a good number of coats to build up the protection. Can you please provide a link to the poly product that can be applied over wax and mineral oil? I’d like to learn more about it. Thanks, Paul
@@ToolMetrix Here is the link. Its not cheap at $32 for a pint. I don't want it to look glossy so I will probably need to steel wool it between coats to get more of a light satin look.. www.amazon.com/EZ-DO-Polyurethane-Gel-Pint/dp/B01EI41QRY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
How about refined coconut oil. Clarks sells refined coconut oil for cutting boards and they claim that it won't go rancid. They also claim mineral oil is petroleum based, which is not good for you, even though they are claimed to be food safe by the fda. Any thoughts?
Check out my video on coconut oil as a cutting board finish. As far as mineral oil, I’ve heard that theory before. I’m not authority on toxicity so I follow the FDA guidelines.
for those last 2 oils and the end the butchers block oil and conditioner since the oil is the first coat the other is a top coat well both of them need to be reapplied or just the conditioner
What if you are wanting to darken your cutting boards? I have some old light colored boards and don’t love light wood anymore. I noticed Watco stain has a food grade stain? Do you know anything about them?
Hi Brandi, that’s interesting. No I hadn’t heard anything about that. I just looked at it on Amazon and it looks promising. I’ve ordered a can and will do a video. Thanks for the tip!
Go to wal-mart's pharmacy and buy Mineral Oil Lubricant Laxative. It is 99.9% food grade mineral oil. it works perfect as a cutting board butcher block finish. It's usually about $1.5ish per 16 oz bottle. Same base material as name brand cutting board finishes at a FRACTION of the cost.
Thanks for the recommendation. I’ve done it, but I don’t like it as much because it’s a lot thicker than the cutting board finish and doesn’t penetrate as well into the wood. But it is cheaper.
@@ToolMetrix correct on the thickness. I teach Middle School Tech Ed and churn out about 100-200 10"-14" cutting boards a year. An old woodworker clued me in on this about 15 years ago. Great for volume and cost.
Yep, just keep feeding it oil until it stops soaking in. It will take a couple hours and lots of oil. Once it is completely saturated it won’t have to be reapplied very often.
Hi. I just cut a piece of a tree in my backyard to use it as a cutting board and dont know what to do next. If i have to air dry it first for a period of time. How Long? Indoor or outdoor with sun light? Etc. Thanks in advance. Edith
Hi Edith, slice it up into boards and let it dry for a few months indoors and it should be ready to to. There's another video on my channel where I show how to do this on a bandsaw with a simple jig.
Hi Russel, you bet. Here are a few videos that you might find useful: ua-cam.com/video/aH5JSgPYWRo/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/EDrlTqujgSQ/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/h2vvLnABymw/v-deo.html
Can tung oil be used only when the board is brand new, and if it can be used for maintenance, what needs to be done in order to prep the board for reapplication?
Can you use epoxy? Does it dry hard enough to where it won't scratch or chip and is it food safe? I know people use it on Floors and on countertops just wondering how it would hold up on a cutting board
Most people say to not use oak because oak is a porous wood and foot particles can get stuck down in the pores. There are people who do it, however, and I’m not aware of any deaths. I mostly use maple, walnut and cherry. Personally I wouldn’t hesitate to use an oak cutting board, but I don’t make them because I don’t feel like having the argument.
I’m selling cutting boards for the first time, there’s a jug of mineral oil I’m going to buy from Walmart, but watching videos and looking at stuff on Pinterest, I’ve found that after oil, you should wax it? Is the wax necessary? Can I just use wax? I’m just trying to find the nicest, and most affordable way to finish them
Hi Jorden, thanks for your question. I would say that the nicest, most affordable way to finish cutting boards would be to buy mineral oil in bulk and put it in a large storage bin, then submerge the cutting boards in it over night. They will soak up so much oil that they won't need to be replenished for a long time and your customers will be happy. No need to apply any wax if you do that. Here's a gallon for $25, and it's great stuff for cutting boards: amzn.to/3rzLH6M
Thank you! This was super helpful! We're not making cutting boards but still want non toxic finishes for wood projects that will involve our kiddos... could beeswax be used as a finish or is that more like a last step for polishing like the mineral oil conditioner?
Thanks for the feedback. You can use the beeswax finish products on other wood projects as well. It is not durable like poly but it is easier to repair, and it looks great. I use this sometimes if I am building gifts at the last minute, and I don't want them to stink when I give them to the recipient. For a durable non-toxic finish look at salad bowl finish products. These are generally a non-toxic variety of poly and they hold up great.
Hi Gus, Thanks for asking. End rain cutting boards soak up more oil into the board, and I believe that is fundamentally why. It kind of freaked me out the first time I did it. Large end grain cutting boards can soak up almost a whole bottle of finish. Because of that, they don't seem to dry out as quickly as long grain boards. Long grain boards do not soak the oil in very deeply, so after a couple washings, the oil is almost gone. They look like they need more oil after just a couple washings. With end grain boards, it seems like they look fine, and only need reapplication after 20+ washings, and even then they don't need anywhere near as much oil as they did on the original oiling.
i use the same finishes on utensils as I do on cutting boards. You could use a salad bowl finish if you'd like, and they'll look great for a while, but at some point you'll want to refinish them and it is a hassle. With these oils you can refresh the finish in seconds and they look great again.
beeswax and mineral spirits, done deal. You can forget that last wax, that stuff makes it look all jacked up after you get a drip of water on it. experience.
Hi John, The butcher block conditioner has beeswax in it, with mineral oil as a carrier. You could just melt beeswax onto the board as well, let it cool, and scrape it off. I've never done it, but I saw a video one time. Seems like a very durable finish.
Paul can you try coconut oil please? If you get reductionated coconut oil, which only contains medium chain triglycerides, it also does not go rancid. I use it on my cutting board, very happy with it.
Hi Barwin, thanks for the information. I've avoided it because of the possibility of it going rancid, but I'm interested in trying the formula that won't go rancid.
Hi Barwin, do you mean "fractionated" coconut oil? I couldn't find anything called "reductionated". I have ordered some fractionated and will give it a try. Do you find that it lasts longer than mineral oil between applications?
Thanks, Taylor. I bought a bottle of it, and it says "not for consumption" on it, so I'm a little leary of suggestion that people use it on a cutting board. Having said that, I did apply it on a cutting board, and it seems to hold up slightly better than mineral oil, and not quite as good as the butcher block finish with wax in it. Here's the product that I'm using: amzn.to/2G7ytcV
ToolMetrix I understand being a little Leary about the food safe concern. I probably wouldn't use it on a product I was selling our that was leaking my family just because of that 0.3% chance of someone having a reaction. To bolster your confidence though, many of the essential oils and carrier oils will not print that it is food safe for the same concern. To qualify as an edible product means additional money they have to spend so they can back up the claim, even if they are running a completely sanitary operation. At the end of the day, the vast majority of their clients are using the product as a topical oil, so they don't have to go to the extra effort to say it's safe to drink just to get more sales.
Hi, do you need to add the Howard Cutting Board Oil on first (3 coats) then add the Block Conditioner (3 coats)? or Can I just use the Block Conditioner?
Hi Cindy, Thanks for your question. I haven't left the live edge on a cutting board, but I leave it on bowls once in a while. For those I just use a poly urethane or Watco and it seems to hold up fine. You'll want to use a wood that has very solid bark as a starting point. If it is flaking off easily its probably going to be difficult to find a product that will do a great job of holding it in place.
Reguar coconut oil will go rancid over time. I'm trying a processed coconut oil that supposedly won't go rancid, and I'm planning to make a video on that soon.
A few weeks ago l made my first cutting boards and they look great. But a few weeks later if you run your fingers across you can fell the sims, kind like if the wood swallow is just minimal and the boards haven't come apart on the sims but the weird thing is that thay haven't get wet and l haven't used yet. I treated with mineral oil and beeswax. I use padauk, maple and walnut. Sorry for my english. Thanks in advance.
Hi Marcelo, if I understand your question correctly, you are finding some ridges in the seams of your cutting boards. This can happen when different species are used, due to differences in the rates of expansion and contraction, as well as different moisture levels at the time of glue-up. I'd suggest washing it, planing the board flat again, and let it sit for a week or so to see if the problem reappears before finishing it again.
If you’re talking about regular linseed oil, yes, that’s ok. If you mean boiled linseed oil, that’s a controversial choice. Some would say no because it is toxic, while some say yes because it is food safe after it cures in 30 days give or take. I say don’t bother because it doesn’t offer any more water resistance than mineral oil and the potential risk of toxicity does not bring any reward in better performance.
polyurethane is plastic. have you ever eaten with plastic knives and forks? if you think it's bad on cutting boards you should definitely stop using plastic utensils. once poly is fully cured (about a month) it's perfectly safe on cutting boards. i don't use it but it's not unsafe.
If you’re ok with plastic flakes in your food that’s fine but poly looks terrible when it’s cut up and it’s difficult to maintain. Nobody with experience finishes cutting boards with poly. Serving tray, sure. Salad bowl, yes. Cutting board, never.
All non-hardening oils just penetrate, forever, or slowly evaporate, needed replenishment. The beeswax adds the water resistance, but the inertness makes the mineral oil more stable, nonreactive, and passively filling spaces germs and contaminates would enter. Edible oils go rancid, and also are digestible for microorganisms as well, so not a good choice either. Modern materials are inert and solid, so no organisms can take hold; wood is increasingly scarce, and deserves use in furnishings and cabinetry, and cutting boards aren't a good choice any more.
Hi can you use olive oil on you cutting boards? I’m going to wood burn a new cutting board and I’m not sure what oil I should use . It’s the first time it will be oiled .
Absolutely the best overall impartial comprehensive advice on this topic I've found. Thank you!
Thank you for your feedback!
Thanks Paul, I never would have thought about the possible relationship between walnut oil and nut allergies.
There's quite a divide on the topic. My hunch is that once the walnut oil is cured there is virtually no risk, but since there seems to be some concern I just steer clear of it for food contact items. It's a shame because its a really nice finishing product.
I thought the walnut oil nut allergy thing was completely ridiculous, but I wouldn't use walnut oil on my cutting board anyways I would use the mineral oil and wax
@@bigdaddyvince182 It might be ridiculous, but with the small bit of doubt, I don't want to risk a customer's life on it, especially when there are other great options.
@@bigdaddyvince182 mineral oil never cures and will remain gummy and leach out on to stuff over time. walnut oil works great, especially after many cured layers. it acts as a nice polymerized coating.
Thank you for this great video. So thorough and informative. As a person with a nut allergy, I never would have thought of the type of oil. Great video!
Thanks for your feedback! Cheers, Paul
Great information. I'm making my first cutting boards for Christmas and this is exactly what I needed to know. Thank you.
Awesome. Thanks for the feedback Peter. Good luck with the cutting boards!
I just sanded down my cutting board from 1960. My old tenants put it to good use, it looked disgusting. After using 60/80/220 grit sandpaper, this thing looks beautiful, can't wait to finish it with the oil you recommend. I might even hit it with 300+ grit sandpaper because I'm feeling frisky ;)
How's the board doing after a year?
@@Roboboy17 I don't use it that often but it's still in perfect condition. I used an oil and conditioner that's for safe and made specifically for cutting boards and the wood is still flawless after light use.
I wouldn't sand an old cutting board. Releasing all that bacteria gives me the creeps.
@@Roboboy17 I've only used it a few times... Looks absolutely perfect. I went down to 400 grit, smooth as a baby. 👍
Oomy word look Watching all these videos and people talking it at the end I never got my answer thank you ur a life saver I'm going to make a cutting board for my mom and I wanted to know what's food safe
Thanks for the feedback Frisk. Glad that you found it helpful.
Thanks, you really confirmed what I was thinking about the various finishes.
Thanks for watching, and for sharing your feedback. Cheers, Paul
Great information I use the same process and it works out great. Love the channel in fact it was your testing on the Laguna dust collection was what made my decision to buy the unit and I must say I'm extremely happy with my purchase I've been using it now for about 2+ months and wow what a awesome job it does. Thank You so much!!!
Thank you, Thom! I really appreciate the feedback on the channel. Please tell your friends! :)
awesome. I found some wood, extremely hard. not sure what it is. I made a cutting board , turned out great and used mineral oil. just happy to see that's what u prefer.
Thanks for the feedback, Kyle. Yep, that is a great approach. A simple finish that is edible! :) I love it because you can refresh it right in the kitchen and it is ready to go instantly.
If you wouldn’t put it in your food or cook with it, don’t use it on your cookware or anything that comes in contact with food. Can’t go wrong with that strategy! Also, the OTC “laxative” mineral oil is the same thing as the “cutting board oil”. They BOTH have vitamin E. If you want it less viscous, warm it up in a hot bowl.
good philosophy :)
The Salad Bowl finish works just fine for cutting boards. I have used it for several years with good success.
That's great, Bill. I love that finish, but I've felt that cutting boards start to look pretty hacked up if I slice on them when coated with it, and it requires a bit more effort to re-coat. I use it on serving trays and bowls all the time and it is one of my favorite topcoat finishes.
Thanks for the info. I didn't think the beeswax orange conditioner was food safe so I've only used the clear butchers block oil. I'll definitely add this to cutting boards in the future, it makes a great finish.
The orange stuff is NOT food safe. The yellow stuff is. The links for the food safe products are in the description.
This was helpful. Thank you for your clear and concise information.
Thanks for the feedback, Leon! Hope you'll consider subscribing to the channel. Cheers, Paul
Just bought a cedar slab for my son to make me a cutting board out of! Thanks for this piece of the puzzle.
Hi Sheri, my pleasure. If your son hasn't already made his cutting board, I might suggest a more durable hardwood, as cedar is pretty soft for a cutting board. Maple would be a good option if you have that available.
ToolMetrix ahhh, thank you, I picked it up at a flea market and was hoping that would work as has some beautiful red running through it. I will search for something else, thanks again
My pleasure, Sheri. Really appreciate your feedback. Cheers, Paul
Thank you so much this was very helpful to me. Sending regards from Australia 🇦🇺 😊
Thanks for watching and sharing your feedback. Glad you found it to be helpful. Cheers, Paul
I personally use a pure tung oil and citrus solvent 50/50 mix and love the results. The tung oil is sold as food grade. If I didn't do that, I would use a raw linseed. The drying oils are far more durable, in my opinion
Hi Graham, thanks for sharing. Interesting to hear about food grade tung oil. I do love tung oil. I know that some pro cutting board makers use raw linseed oil. It cures, but takes a long time. Cheers, Paul
@ToolMetrix I used to use a beeswax and mineral oil mix and found I had to reapply quite often. The tung oil and citrus solvent has lasted for months now for me. It does have a longer cure time but the results have been great. Thanks for your video and reply🙏
We appreciate this educational and informative video.. great job!
Thanks Jessica!
I do appreciate this! Will be mentioning you on a video once I finish my diy:) TYFS!
Thank you Ilene!
Thanks for your video Paul. I wondered if you would also lightly sand the board surface prior to re-application of oil on a well used board with knife marks.
Hi James, I do not sand during a normal refresh. I have done it on occasion if a board is badly hacked up or stained by strawberries or whatever. But normally just a quick wipe on/off of finish and the board looks great.
Thanks. I prefer plain old mineral oil. I coat it let it sit overnight, then light coat of mineral oil, let dry 1 hourish. Then rub with 50/50 bees wax mineral oil. Buttery finish. Cheers
Nice approach. Thanks for sharing, Glen.
Very good video full of good advice and truths pleasant indeed .
Thanks, Lance. :)
Nice overview. My experience agrees with yours. Take a look at Doctor's Woodshop sometimes. The author/owner, Mike Meredith, is a retired biochemist who did medical research. He's a member of the NW Woodturners in Portland, OR. As a turner he started making products that he liked better than what was available. He also reviews the performance of the different oils as you do.
Thanks, Mike. I looked at the DW site. Very interesting story, and some great looking products. I'm overstocked on finish products at the moment after doing that video, but when I'm back in the market there are a couple products that he has that I would like to try. Thanks for the tip.
What finish does he prefer for cutting boards?
First ToolMetrix video I've watched and I loved it! Thank you for explaining each option so well. I still have no idea which one to choose but I definitely have a better understanding of the pros and cons.
I actually purchased a cutting board & cut words into it with a tool. I'm wanting to re-stain or oil the board to seal off where I've cut into. I was going to use a food safe Polyurethane but now feel unsure what option to go with 🤔
Anyway, loved your video! You were made.for the spotlight 🙌🏽😊
Thanks Kate, you’ve made my day. 😀
@@ToolMetrix happy to return the favour after you made mine 🥰😊
new subscriber , I do alot of rustic chic, farm house projects to sell. like your channel and your set up . thanks for the knowledge
I appreciate the kind words, Kyle, and thanks for subscribing!
Very helpful and timely for me.....thanks so very much!!
Thanks for the thoughtful comment!
Just the video I've been looking for! Thank you for your great info, and that end grain cutting board on the table there looks awesome!
Thanks Joey!
Excellent video, very informative.
Thanks, Chuck! I appreciate the feedback. Cheers, Paul
hey guy nice presentation which got me thinking howq about poppy seed oil just a thought
Hi Fred, I’ve actually never heard of that. Could be an option.
Being into cooking I ditched my plastic board for a wood one. I wasnt into wood working then as I am now and wondered why my cutting board has burs. I see now that it isnt finished and I need to sand it and finish it. I got it at walmart for about $20 and I guess the good thing is I washed it and it raised some of the nibs so now it should be good to sand and finish.
Not sure if the cheap board is hardwood and I thought about making my own sometime. Thanks for the video, gives me better insight.
I did see the laxative min oil for cheap and was wondering if thatd work but i think im gonna get the foodsafe one from HD or Lowes.
The laxative version of mineral oil will work, but it is thicker and doesn't penetrate as well as the stuff that is marketed as a finish.
Have you ever tried the wipe on poly or the wood bowl finish (they are essentially the same) on your cutting boards, especially end grain, allowing the finish to soak in for 10-15 min, keeping it wet, then wiping off? Both are food safe once cured. The intent being in the end to only have finish in the wood, not a film finish on it. Keep "stuff" from soaking into the wood. Easily "repaired" when needed with a light sanding and repeat the application process. Mineral oil just evaporates with time and has to be added to frequently.
Hi Doug, I haven't tried it but it is a great idea and I will try it. I'll do a video on it if it works well, and I believe that it will. I think I would refresh with mineral oil rather than more poly, however, as it can be done right in the kitchen. I don't think that it would require it very often, however. Thanks for the suggestion.
you did this video very well thank you
Thanks 🙏!!!
Thanks... I was leaning towards mineral oil
Good safe choice.
HI Paul! Could you use the Walnut Oil as a base finish, then apply a MIneral Oil and/or Wax as a final finish? I'm asking about the Walnut Oil because I would like to darken my butcher block before adding the final finish. Thanks for the video, great information.
Hi Carl, I don't think you would have any compatibility problems with that approach, but you might want to just use a product like this on top of your straight walnut oil, rather than switching to mineral oil based products: amzn.to/2lAaBGs
Thanks for the video. Very Informative!
Awesome. Thanks Wes!🙏
Have you tried hemp oil? If so, what was your experience? Thanks, this video saved me lots of time and money!
Hi Carol, no I haven’t. Interesting idea. Why do you feel that it might be a good option?
What do you do if you used a stain on your cutting board that is not food safe. I do t use my cutting board for food just storage as it is on a rolling cart. My question is can I seal the stained cutting board with mineral oil or do I need to sand it back down to the orginal cutting board?
In that situation you should sand or plane the board until you are confident that all of the non food-safe finish is gone. Adding mineral oil will not prevent other finish from migrating into the food.
Been using walnut oil on my turnings and charcuterie boards. I disagree on the comment that it takes long for walnut oil to harden (polymerase). It is ease of maintenance makes it my choice. Mineral oil never dries and the poly products can be a pain to maintain the finish.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts. Cheers
Great video Paul ! Very informative
Thank you!
I use epoxy all the time. I have a large end grain board ( 5.5 ft x 3.5ft) I need to repair, it's broken in half...don't ask. My question is, since the exposed faces to be re-attached have oil on certain areas I'm skeptical that the epoxy will bond to those areas and that the type 3 glue I've used will face the same problem. This piece has taken FOREVER to make, I have now entered the money losing phase and simply want to finish and deliver to the client...any advice might help me to sleep again.
Hi Tom, that's a tough one. I agree with your concern about having adhesion problems, but epoxy should give you a good fighting chance. This is just a hunch so take it for what it's worth, but I think what I would try would be to gently scrub all areas of the joint with warm soapy water, then rinse thoroughly with clean water. Then let it sit for a couple days to let it dry completely. My thinking is that this will remove enough oil from the joint that the epoxy will have the ability to grab pretty well. I would also consider using some biscuits to reinforce the joint. I'd cut the biscuit slots before cleaning the board, because those will need to be cleaned as well. Good luck!
Thanks so much for your quick reply. I'll let you know how things work out, cheers.
I just finished putting 5 coats of the Howards Conditioner (oil/wax) on my brand new pine butcher block countertops and water still stains it.. I used an entire bottle on just one counter and even let 2 of the coats sit overnight before wiping them off and even though the water drops bead on it, when you wipe it off it leaves a water ring and feels rough when you run your hand across it.. I had to use 0000 steel wool to get the spots out..
Interesting. I've applied this stuff on hundreds of projects and never saw it leave a water mark (there's no water in the product to my knowledge, as I don't believe that it would homogenize with the oil) or make the board rough. Sorry that you have had this experience.
@@ToolMetrix Maybe its the type of wood, mine are birch.. This morning my coffee cup had a little moisture on the bottom and it left a ring that would not wipe off. And if your run your hand across it, it looks and feels like dried up salt water (a white gritty feeling).. I had to use the steel wool again to get it out.. I think im going to the try the poly that you can put over the oil made by John Boos called EZ-DO..
Poly would probably be best in this situation as it would give you the best moisture resistance. I’d suggest applying a good number of coats to build up the protection. Can you please provide a link to the poly product that can be applied over wax and mineral oil? I’d like to learn more about it. Thanks, Paul
@@ToolMetrix Here is the link. Its not cheap at $32 for a pint. I don't want it to look glossy so I will probably need to steel wool it between coats to get more of a light satin look.. www.amazon.com/EZ-DO-Polyurethane-Gel-Pint/dp/B01EI41QRY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
@@ToolMetrix Here is a video on it: ua-cam.com/video/yS7WY4ZIeKM/v-deo.html
I use Boos and Clarks
Thanks for sharing!
How about refined coconut oil. Clarks sells refined coconut oil for cutting boards and they claim that it won't go rancid. They also claim mineral oil is petroleum based, which is not good for you, even though they are claimed to be food safe by the fda. Any thoughts?
Check out my video on coconut oil as a cutting board finish. As far as mineral oil, I’ve heard that theory before. I’m not authority on toxicity so I follow the FDA guidelines.
Thanks, Paul! Good info!
Thanks for sharing your feedback, Martin. 🙏
no matter what maintenance to a cutting board is necessary it's just a matter of what u want to use to protect it
Great point, Marcin. There is no bullet proof option.
for those last 2 oils and the end the butchers block oil and conditioner since the oil is the first coat the other is a top coat well both of them need to be reapplied or just the conditioner
You can apply either. I usually just apply more conditioner as needed but if it’s really dry I’ll add some oil occasionally.
@@ToolMetrix ah ok so after you apply both you might only need to reaply like the wax but maybe the oil as well
Exactly. If you wanna just apply one as a maintenance practice I’d suggest the conditioner as you can go longer between applications due to the wax.
Excellent video -- thanks!
You are welcome! Thanks for watching. Cheers, Paul
What if you are wanting to darken your cutting boards? I have some old light colored boards and don’t love light wood anymore. I noticed Watco stain has a food grade stain? Do you know anything about them?
Hi Brandi, that’s interesting. No I hadn’t heard anything about that. I just looked at it on Amazon and it looks promising. I’ve ordered a can and will do a video. Thanks for the tip!
Great video! One question though, what about 1 coating of Sealcoat? This is a Shellac product so it's foodsafe
I don’t use seal coat on cutting boards. I want the oil to penetrate into the wood.
Go to wal-mart's pharmacy and buy Mineral Oil Lubricant Laxative. It is 99.9% food grade mineral oil. it works perfect as a cutting board butcher block finish. It's usually about $1.5ish per 16 oz bottle. Same base material as name brand cutting board finishes at a FRACTION of the cost.
Thanks for the recommendation. I’ve done it, but I don’t like it as much because it’s a lot thicker than the cutting board finish and doesn’t penetrate as well into the wood. But it is cheaper.
@@ToolMetrix correct on the thickness. I teach Middle School Tech Ed and churn out about 100-200 10"-14" cutting boards a year. An old woodworker clued me in on this about 15 years ago. Great for volume and cost.
Wow!!!! That’s incredible volume!
I'm thinking of making a cutting board from black walnut end grain. Would just plain mineral oil by itself do the trick to properly protect the board?
Yep, just keep feeding it oil until it stops soaking in. It will take a couple hours and lots of oil. Once it is completely saturated it won’t have to be reapplied very often.
@@ToolMetrix Cheers
What would you use on a black walnut round end grain cutting board?
I’d soak it completely in mineral oil. Let it soak up as much as it will take. Then coat with butcher block conditioner.
Hi. I just cut a piece of a tree in my backyard to use it as a cutting board and dont know what to do next. If i have to air dry it first for a period of time. How Long? Indoor or outdoor with sun light? Etc. Thanks in advance. Edith
Hi Edith, slice it up into boards and let it dry for a few months indoors and it should be ready to to. There's another video on my channel where I show how to do this on a bandsaw with a simple jig.
Also do you have any videos of how to make and sand cutting boards?
Hi Russel, you bet. Here are a few videos that you might find useful:
ua-cam.com/video/aH5JSgPYWRo/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/EDrlTqujgSQ/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/h2vvLnABymw/v-deo.html
Raw linseed oil will cure(slowly), and is food safe if nothing is added to it.
Thanks for the input, Gareth. I've never tried raw linseed oil, but yes, I've heard that it is food safe. Should be a good option for cutting boards.
Great video & very nice shop too!
What are the names of the last two products that you showed.
I can’t read it on the bootle ?
Hi Russel,
Thank you. In terms of the products, I have sourced all of the products in the video description. Cheers, Paul
You have to let the walnut oil,and others time to cure.at least 2 weeks
Great point. Thanks for sharing.
Can tung oil be used only when the board is brand new, and if it can be used for maintenance, what needs to be done in order to prep the board for reapplication?
Sure it could. Just be sure to wait at least a month for full cure. Light sanding before reapplying would be a good idea.
very helpful thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for your comment, Leslie. Cheers, Paul
I've just begun using Danish Oil. Any comment on this product, please
Hi Ian, I love Danish Oil for some projects but it’s not good safe. Definitely would not use it on a cutting board.
Can you use epoxy? Does it dry hard enough to where it won't scratch or chip and is it food safe? I know people use it on Floors and on countertops just wondering how it would hold up on a cutting board
I would not use epoxy on a cutting board. It will look hacked up very quickly.
thanks for the video
Do you know if there is a difference between paraffin oil and mineral oil and if yes do they both work the same way
Sorry, no, I'm not familiar with the paraffin oil.
Thank you so much for that information!!
My pleasure, Pris!
I have heard not to use red or white oak for cutting boards, is this true?
Most people say to not use oak because oak is a porous wood and foot particles can get stuck down in the pores. There are people who do it, however, and I’m not aware of any deaths. I mostly use maple, walnut and cherry. Personally I wouldn’t hesitate to use an oak cutting board, but I don’t make them because I don’t feel like having the argument.
Well made video.
Thanks Happy!
I’m selling cutting boards for the first time, there’s a jug of mineral oil I’m going to buy from Walmart, but watching videos and looking at stuff on Pinterest, I’ve found that after oil, you should wax it?
Is the wax necessary? Can I just use wax?
I’m just trying to find the nicest, and most affordable way to finish them
Hi Jorden, thanks for your question. I would say that the nicest, most affordable way to finish cutting boards would be to buy mineral oil in bulk and put it in a large storage bin, then submerge the cutting boards in it over night. They will soak up so much oil that they won't need to be replenished for a long time and your customers will be happy. No need to apply any wax if you do that. Here's a gallon for $25, and it's great stuff for cutting boards: amzn.to/3rzLH6M
@@ToolMetrix thank you so much
@@ToolMetrix
16 ounces at walmart for $2
Perfect!
I only use mineral oil and beez wax.
Great approach!
Thank you! This was super helpful! We're not making cutting boards but still want non toxic finishes for wood projects that will involve our kiddos... could beeswax be used as a finish or is that more like a last step for polishing like the mineral oil conditioner?
Thanks for the feedback. You can use the beeswax finish products on other wood projects as well. It is not durable like poly but it is easier to repair, and it looks great. I use this sometimes if I am building gifts at the last minute, and I don't want them to stink when I give them to the recipient. For a durable non-toxic finish look at salad bowl finish products. These are generally a non-toxic variety of poly and they hold up great.
ToolMetrix Thank you so much! Just subscribed!
My friend told me he accidentally put the butcher block conditioner first then the butcher block mineral oil.. what should he do?
That’s not a problem at all. I’d just put another coat of butcher block conditioner and call it good. Nobody will ever know the difference.
Does the mineral oil effect the glue?
Nope. Not much will affect modern PVA wood glues. Mineral oil definitely won’t.
Would you use the same oil on a chacuterie board?
It would work fine for that and is probably what I’d use. I might also use behlens salad bowl finish if there would be no slicing done on the board.
How about for outside use if I had a big table outside
I would use mineral oil and keep a cover over the oiled surface when it’s not in use.
Great vid very informative 👍🏼
Thanks Thunder!
Thank you!
My pleasure. Thanks for watching!
why do you need to apply more often on the edge grain cutting boards then the end grain ones? just curious thanks
Hi Gus, Thanks for asking. End rain cutting boards soak up more oil into the board, and I believe that is fundamentally why. It kind of freaked me out the first time I did it. Large end grain cutting boards can soak up almost a whole bottle of finish. Because of that, they don't seem to dry out as quickly as long grain boards. Long grain boards do not soak the oil in very deeply, so after a couple washings, the oil is almost gone. They look like they need more oil after just a couple washings. With end grain boards, it seems like they look fine, and only need reapplication after 20+ washings, and even then they don't need anywhere near as much oil as they did on the original oiling.
thanks that makes sense
I stained my board, can I still use the food grade top coat.
I wouldn’t use a stained cutting board. Most wood stain isn’t food safe and mineral oil won’t seal it.
What about mct oil? Will that work? I know its food safe.
Yep, it’ll work as long as you wash and reapply periodically.
Odies oil followed up with Odies wax!
Someday I'll try that. I'm still saving up for it...
What's the best finish for butcher block countertops, clear coat.
Mineral oil and beeswax
How about Linceed Oil not the boiled.
Hi John, yep that’s an option as well. It’s food safe and it cures. It cures slowly but it eventually does cure.
what about coconut oil?
Here’s a video on that ua-cam.com/video/7T18-L6J1VI/v-deo.html
What finish do you suggest for wooden utensils? (Spoons and spatulas)
i use the same finishes on utensils as I do on cutting boards. You could use a salad bowl finish if you'd like, and they'll look great for a while, but at some point you'll want to refinish them and it is a hassle. With these oils you can refresh the finish in seconds and they look great again.
beeswax and mineral spirits, done deal. You can forget that last wax, that stuff makes it look all jacked up after you get a drip of water on it. experience.
Thanks for your feedback, Jonathan. Cheers, Paul
How about a beeswax treatment?
Hi John, The butcher block conditioner has beeswax in it, with mineral oil as a carrier. You could just melt beeswax onto the board as well, let it cool, and scrape it off. I've never done it, but I saw a video one time. Seems like a very durable finish.
Good intel thank you
My pleasure, Trish. Thank you for the feedback. :)
Paul can you try coconut oil please? If you get reductionated coconut oil, which only contains medium chain triglycerides, it also does not go rancid. I use it on my cutting board, very happy with it.
Hi Barwin, thanks for the information. I've avoided it because of the possibility of it going rancid, but I'm interested in trying the formula that won't go rancid.
Hi Barwin, do you mean "fractionated" coconut oil? I couldn't find anything called "reductionated". I have ordered some fractionated and will give it a try. Do you find that it lasts longer than mineral oil between applications?
ToolMetrix I'm pretty sure that's what the original poster was referring to. I'd love to hear what you find, even if it's a 1 minute video!
Thanks, Taylor. I bought a bottle of it, and it says "not for consumption" on it, so I'm a little leary of suggestion that people use it on a cutting board. Having said that, I did apply it on a cutting board, and it seems to hold up slightly better than mineral oil, and not quite as good as the butcher block finish with wax in it. Here's the product that I'm using: amzn.to/2G7ytcV
ToolMetrix I understand being a little Leary about the food safe concern. I probably wouldn't use it on a product I was selling our that was leaking my family just because of that 0.3% chance of someone having a reaction. To bolster your confidence though, many of the essential oils and carrier oils will not print that it is food safe for the same concern. To qualify as an edible product means additional money they have to spend so they can back up the claim, even if they are running a completely sanitary operation. At the end of the day, the vast majority of their clients are using the product as a topical oil, so they don't have to go to the extra effort to say it's safe to drink just to get more sales.
Hi, do you need to add the Howard Cutting Board Oil on first (3 coats) then add the Block Conditioner (3 coats)? or Can I just use the Block Conditioner?
Yep, you could definitely do it that way.
Do you ever leave the live edge on, and if so, what do you seal it with?
Hi Cindy, Thanks for your question. I haven't left the live edge on a cutting board, but I leave it on bowls once in a while. For those I just use a poly urethane or Watco and it seems to hold up fine. You'll want to use a wood that has very solid bark as a starting point. If it is flaking off easily its probably going to be difficult to find a product that will do a great job of holding it in place.
Thank you! I’ll try that. It’s not flaking or coming off at lll.
What is the didference if i use coconut oil ?
Reguar coconut oil will go rancid over time. I'm trying a processed coconut oil that supposedly won't go rancid, and I'm planning to make a video on that soon.
Hi Alexander, I have done some testing with three different coconut oils and just uploaded a video on this.
i like using Odies oil and Odies butter for my cutting boards finish holds up well.
Thanks, Mike. I'll check that out!
A few weeks ago l made my first cutting boards and they look great. But a few weeks later if you run your fingers across you can fell the sims, kind like if the wood swallow is just minimal and the boards haven't come apart on the sims but the weird thing is that thay haven't get wet and l haven't used yet. I treated with mineral oil and beeswax.
I use padauk, maple and walnut.
Sorry for my english.
Thanks in advance.
Hi Marcelo, if I understand your question correctly, you are finding some ridges in the seams of your cutting boards. This can happen when different species are used, due to differences in the rates of expansion and contraction, as well as different moisture levels at the time of glue-up. I'd suggest washing it, planing the board flat again, and let it sit for a week or so to see if the problem reappears before finishing it again.
What about engine mineral oil?
Sounds like a bad idea to me.
Is Linseed oil alright to use on a cutting board
If you’re talking about regular linseed oil, yes, that’s ok. If you mean boiled linseed oil, that’s a controversial choice. Some would say no because it is toxic, while some say yes because it is food safe after it cures in 30 days give or take. I say don’t bother because it doesn’t offer any more water resistance than mineral oil and the potential risk of toxicity does not bring any reward in better performance.
polyurethane is plastic. have you ever eaten with plastic knives and forks? if you think it's bad on cutting boards you should definitely stop using plastic utensils. once poly is fully cured (about a month) it's perfectly safe on cutting boards. i don't use it but it's not unsafe.
If you’re ok with plastic flakes in your food that’s fine but poly looks terrible when it’s cut up and it’s difficult to maintain. Nobody with experience finishes cutting boards with poly. Serving tray, sure. Salad bowl, yes. Cutting board, never.
Osmo top oil.
Interesting. I have never heard of that one. Thank you for the suggestion.
How many coats do you apply
Usually 1 heavy coat of oil and 1 coat of oil/wax mixture.
@@ToolMetrix how long in between coats should I wait. Thanks for your help
All non-hardening oils just penetrate, forever, or slowly evaporate, needed replenishment. The beeswax adds the water resistance, but the inertness makes the mineral oil more stable, nonreactive, and passively filling spaces germs and contaminates would enter. Edible oils go rancid, and also are digestible for microorganisms as well, so not a good choice either. Modern materials are inert and solid, so no organisms can take hold; wood is increasingly scarce, and deserves use in furnishings and cabinetry, and cutting boards aren't a good choice any more.
Thanks for sharing your perspectives, z.
Hi can you use olive oil on you cutting boards? I’m going to wood burn a new cutting board and I’m not sure what oil I should use . It’s the first time it will be oiled .
If you watch this video you will get some recommendations.
good info 1
Thanks, Judy! Glad that you found it useful. Cheers, Paul
boiled linseed oil isn't food safe.
After it cures...
Wales oil is best
Thanks for sharing your thoughts here. Cheers