I'm not sure how I ended up here, live in a small condo and will never be doing woodwork, but as others have already said, this video is amazing! I do stained glass as a hobby and this really summarizes all the 'hidden' time and steps that many may not be able to appreciate. Awesome products you're creating there and nice to see Canadian content. Greetings from Calgary.
I'm looking at getting a nice cutting board from a local woodworker. But I wanted to make sure I know how to care for it first. Thanks for the great video!
Exactly Right on the Happiness and Joy! Never knew a Wood Cutting Board would do that for me. So ecstatic that is does this everytime I walk in to my kitchen. Thanks for the tutorial.
Super video!! Might I suggest some feedback for the future, to practice top-down communication? Answer-first with a warm soapy wash + mineral oil and wax, then wax only comparison, and then the don't suggestions. I watched this video sequentially and did the wax first alone, like a dummy. Please make it even easier for dummies like me!
Wow, found this video on my UA-cam home page and remembered that I haven't cleaned nor oiled my cutting board in over two years. Maybe longer! As soon as I get home tonite ...
The next video he was previewing at the end had me hittin subscribe...... 5* on this one. I am about to invest in a good board or two. I'm buying for quality so that I can pass this on down into my family by generations. Thanks Bud.
I just bought a new board and I said to myself let me see if there is any new techniques for boards? Ran across your video. I looked at your sight you do great work! I’m buying one of your boards for my bday in July only cause I just got a new board. But great looking stuff!!
Just received a Ryan Hawkins cutting board as a wedding gift, which brought me here. Incredible work! Absolutely amazing! We cannot even believe we have it lol
Ok, so I'm glad you mentioned the potential harm from serrated blades, bur your advice is a little misguided; you don't need to avoid using serrated knives, you just need to employ them properly. See how at the tip of your serrated bread knife it has that flat spot without any serrations but the tip is still somewhat blunted? That's there for a reason. It's because the proper technique with a serrated knife is to use the serrations as you saw through your bread or what-have-you, and then right before you reach the bottom of your cut, you do one more push stroke, and then ONLY on your final pull stroke through the food should that front 1/4" of the knife drag along the board to complete the slice. The serrations should never touch the board, and that also means they will stay sharp far longer (because they are a bitch to resharpen) :) TMYK But yes, you're right that many people do terrible harm with serrated knives, both to their board and their poor knife. I would also add that part of taking care of your board is using sharp knives so you aren't pressing as hard and make sure you use proper knife technique. I can always tell when my wife has been using my cutting board because suddenly there are all these super deep lines in the board. Somehow I can prep a hundred vegetables and the board still feels smooth, and she can cut just one onion and leave these nasty scars (and it's hard maple). Her knifes are sharp (because I hand-sharpen hers too), but her technique is awful, and she always loves pushing more than she has to, which isn't safe for her, the knife, nor the board. Additionally, I would say that maybe once a month or so, it's nice to just go over the roughest patch in the center of the board with some 1,000 grit and a medium-soft sanding pad just to smooth out some of the rougher ridges left from the knife cuts. Eventually the board will be too chewed up for this to matter, and that's when the countdown starts for when I'm finally ready to completely re-sand it for a fresh surface. Another tip would be to not drag your knife around on the board or use a metal board scraper. It's terrible for your knife edge, and it just damages your hard-earned sanded surface. Plastic scrapers are freaking amazing and an under-appreciated and versatile tool. Not to mention you can get a pack of 10 for like 2 bucks. I've had mine for at least 5 years and I have yet to even come close to wearing one out. Maybe my only other gripes would be some of your cleaning and rejuvenating tips. I would absolutely avoid soapy water on your board. A lot of the residue left behind soaks into the fibers and not only leaves a bitter taste and potential odor, but is potentially harmful for your health (although hard to quantify). It's really just an unnecessary step anyway; a damp rag with some diluted vinegar is more than enough, plus it fights odors. As for how often you suggest to reapply board butter, I would say that most channels greatly exaggerate how long that lasts after use, especially with their "once or twice a month" talk. Realistically, if you are using the cutting board every day, then you should reapply it at the end of the day, or maybe first thing the next morning (if moisture needs to dry out). This is ESPECIALLY true if you have an end-grain cutting board. End grain cutting boards love to give off their oils faster than you can blink, especially after it's had some wear from use. Maybe if you only do light use every day then you could get away with waxing every other day, but realistically you are stripping all of that off with one use/cleaning. When it comes time to re-condition, you don't need to apply nearly as much oil and paste as you are, since most of that is just being rubbed right off. For the mineral oil, just a couple drops in each quadrant is more than enough; you should really more just see the color of the wood change than actually see any shininess on top. And then for the wax right after, just take a microfiber applicator pad and leave the faintest film of swirls along the board. Then with light pressure, drag the pad across the board with the grain to sort of "polish" it up into as smooth as film as can be. Anything else is just wasteful. And the reason you keep dealing with leaching from your boards is because you are oversoaking them, and that's why you're having to wait 48-72 hours between applying paste, which defeats the purpose. Especially for end-grain boards like the ones you build, because they will suck up oil like 8x faster. Even when you opened up that new cutting board form the packaging at 0:31, you could see all that excess oil leaching out in the butcher paper. That is too much A proper care regiment can be done back to back, assuming the board is dry. I personally typically like to give it a quick vinegar spray during cooking cleanup, and then before bed or the next morning I can do the paste, or the oil and paste if it really needs it. But this is another reason that I really can't get behind end-grain boards for your main prep board; trying to keep them oiled without additional problems just becomes a pain, and their surfaces always turn so rough with basic wear. Edge grain will give you a much happier, easier (and not to mention more level) board. Wow, didn't realize I was gonna go on a rant, but there you go, I guess. Hope some of that helps. At the end of the day, you're the one with your own business building these, and you're gonna make them the way you like. But I thought I'd at least offer the suggestion that you don't need to drench them like that when you make them or maintain them.
I have a chinese round chopping board - it's just a slice from a tree, about 10cm deep and about 50cm across. I've watched Chef Wang's video where you soak it in salt water for a week, then he heats oil to 200 degrees, and pours it on the still wet board. But the video is in Chinese and he doesn't say what oil to use. In this video you say 'Food Grade Mineral Oil,' but I've seen loads of people saying that's not good for the round tree boards. I just thought because you know your wood, you might know your oils??? Thanks for the content, love it.
Very informative, thank you! I like the idea of a metal handle on the cutting board (the grooves never work that well for picking a heavy board up, at least not with my arthritic hands). Can you point me to a retail/online source for simple sturdy handles that won't mind getting washed along with the cutting board? Stainless steel or ORB would be good.
I assume it is exactly the same process for a solid oak kitchen worktop? I usually use Danish or Tung oil (not nearly often enough) but this seems a lot simpler. Great channel BTW
I would follow the same process. I like pure tung oil as well but it’s a hardening oil that takes several days to go through the proper application process whereas mineral oil is non drying and is simply quicker to apply
I have a homemade cutting board that my son made in wood shop about 25 years ago. I’ve only recently started actually using it. I’m only using it to cut sourdough bread. Do I need to wash it every time I use it? I’ve been just brushing the crumbs off. Thanks!
I have a little crock at the edge of my board forgot to order it for a while so I guess it happened. How do I fix it? Some people told me to put beeswax help 😢
Ok. So I am frustrated Ryan. Because I have a urethane varnished kitchen counter and I cannot find any video that explains how to get old or new stuck on residue cleans off. I recently moved to this house and stupidly tried to clean some stuck on food with plastic scrubbie and cleaners of various sorts and wound up removing the varnish and the goop and /or stain was still there!!! OMG. Heartbreaking. Can you please advise what to do? Even scaling with plastic spatula takes off the urethane?!
Good video. What do you think of tung oil on cutting boards? Another YT did a comparison with mineral oil and it seemed tung oil was way better and lasted longer. Maybe he or I am missing something.
Any thoughts on using a weak water / bleach solution? I keep a kitchen towel in a1 gallon stainless steal steam table insert pan in the sink with about 1 oz of bleach to 1 gallon of warm water whenever I am preparing meat to clean hands, kitchen utensils and prep surfaces.
This might be a dumb question.. but does new cutting boards that are preoiled need to be washed before using? Im new to wood cutting boards and can't find this answer
I’ve used pure tung oil on furniture and I liked the result but due to the application process (multiple coats, 24 hours drying in between), I’ve never tried it on a cutting board.
@@ryanhawkins good points, I haven't done boards in many quantities and didn't take the dry time into consideration. Thanks for the reply and keep up the great work.
How about beeswax (applied) and then go over it with a heat source such as a hair dryer or heat gun? Obviously one would not want to exercise this method with a board with glue joints, but a solid cypress or paulownia board? To me, I feel that this would really open up the wood fibers, and make thicker natural oils/ waxes less viscous to penetrate deeper. 🤷🏻 just makes sense to me. I’m currently in Tokyo and snagged a nice (one piece) paulownia board for 0.70¢ (tax included 😮). Great board for veggies and softer blades. Gonna lube it up when I get back home. Crazy how much these things sell for on Amazon! 😂 it’s a fast growing wood that is easily milled. I can see the online vendors laughing all the way to the bank.
Any mineral oil sold in the grocery or drug store is food grade. I find commercial preparations for cutting boards to be a ripoff. OTOH, that is a really nice board.
@michellpapayani4643 depending on the severity and location of the split, chances are you can't. Once the wood splits, it's very hard to make it whole again. If it's a tiny split, you may be able to inject some glue in it and apply a clamp to close it up. You're welcome to send me pics through the contact section of my website for further diagnosis.
Not everytime you wash it, no, that would be a little much. But every couple of weeks to once a month depending on use and depending on use you might not even wash it with soap each time. Say you're just chopping some veggies, not really necessary to give it a full soap treatment after.
I think I'll just get a plastic one. I can put it in the sink and bam! Done. This is why my mom didn't want me to make her a wood cutting g board in school I guess
@@anthonyfournier1731 mostly all commercial kitchens use plastic and go way rougher, i honestly rarely do any cutting anyways, been using it mostly just season my raw meats on and cut every now and then, veggies i usually buy frozen already cut veggies, mostly just sausage, tomatoes, cheese, and cooked meats i gotta cut but im lazy and usually just cut while its on the dinner plate.
This is always my go to video to watch every now and again to make sure I'm still doing it right 😊
me rn
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
🙏🙏
I have nothing to say either, but also wish to boost the algorithm
@@darodesme neither. But I hope to boost both his and my algorithm 🙂
I'm not sure how I ended up here, live in a small condo and will never be doing woodwork, but as others have already said, this video is amazing! I do stained glass as a hobby and this really summarizes all the 'hidden' time and steps that many may not be able to appreciate. Awesome products you're creating there and nice to see Canadian content. Greetings from Calgary.
I'm looking at getting a nice cutting board from a local woodworker. But I wanted to make sure I know how to care for it first. Thanks for the great video!
Thanks! Short and straight to the point with no BS....great video!!
Was just gifted my first nice cutting board and wanted to do it justice with the maintenance so thank you! ❤
Exactly Right on the Happiness and Joy! Never knew a Wood Cutting Board would do that for me. So ecstatic that is does this everytime I walk in to my kitchen. Thanks for the tutorial.
Super video!! Might I suggest some feedback for the future, to practice top-down communication?
Answer-first with a warm soapy wash + mineral oil and wax, then wax only comparison, and then the don't suggestions. I watched this video sequentially and did the wax first alone, like a dummy. Please make it even easier for dummies like me!
Wow, found this video on my UA-cam home page and remembered that I haven't cleaned nor oiled my cutting board in over two years. Maybe longer! As soon as I get home tonite ...
Great information and clear, to the point, instructions.
You are always perfectly concise. I love your videos.
Thank you
The next video he was previewing at the end had me hittin subscribe...... 5* on this one. I am about to invest in a good board or two. I'm buying for quality so that I can pass this on down into my family by generations. Thanks Bud.
so pumped to have one one your boards coming to my house any day now!!! I love usable art.
I just bought a new board and I said to myself let me see if there is any new techniques for boards? Ran across your video. I looked at your sight you do great work! I’m buying one of your boards for my bday in July only cause I just got a new board. But great looking stuff!!
JUST love ur chopping boards and now I know how to look after them. thank u.
Great explanation, thanks! Best I've seen so far.
I noticed you didn’t do the comparison between the oil+beeswax versus just beeswax. Which is better?
Just received a Ryan Hawkins cutting board as a wedding gift, which brought me here. Incredible work! Absolutely amazing! We cannot even believe we have it lol
That is a nice huge cutting board. Thanks for the advice.
I was looking to get a wood cutting board, answered all my questions thanks!
Ok, so I'm glad you mentioned the potential harm from serrated blades, bur your advice is a little misguided; you don't need to avoid using serrated knives, you just need to employ them properly. See how at the tip of your serrated bread knife it has that flat spot without any serrations but the tip is still somewhat blunted? That's there for a reason. It's because the proper technique with a serrated knife is to use the serrations as you saw through your bread or what-have-you, and then right before you reach the bottom of your cut, you do one more push stroke, and then ONLY on your final pull stroke through the food should that front 1/4" of the knife drag along the board to complete the slice. The serrations should never touch the board, and that also means they will stay sharp far longer (because they are a bitch to resharpen) :) TMYK
But yes, you're right that many people do terrible harm with serrated knives, both to their board and their poor knife. I would also add that part of taking care of your board is using sharp knives so you aren't pressing as hard and make sure you use proper knife technique. I can always tell when my wife has been using my cutting board because suddenly there are all these super deep lines in the board. Somehow I can prep a hundred vegetables and the board still feels smooth, and she can cut just one onion and leave these nasty scars (and it's hard maple). Her knifes are sharp (because I hand-sharpen hers too), but her technique is awful, and she always loves pushing more than she has to, which isn't safe for her, the knife, nor the board. Additionally, I would say that maybe once a month or so, it's nice to just go over the roughest patch in the center of the board with some 1,000 grit and a medium-soft sanding pad just to smooth out some of the rougher ridges left from the knife cuts. Eventually the board will be too chewed up for this to matter, and that's when the countdown starts for when I'm finally ready to completely re-sand it for a fresh surface. Another tip would be to not drag your knife around on the board or use a metal board scraper. It's terrible for your knife edge, and it just damages your hard-earned sanded surface. Plastic scrapers are freaking amazing and an under-appreciated and versatile tool. Not to mention you can get a pack of 10 for like 2 bucks. I've had mine for at least 5 years and I have yet to even come close to wearing one out.
Maybe my only other gripes would be some of your cleaning and rejuvenating tips. I would absolutely avoid soapy water on your board. A lot of the residue left behind soaks into the fibers and not only leaves a bitter taste and potential odor, but is potentially harmful for your health (although hard to quantify). It's really just an unnecessary step anyway; a damp rag with some diluted vinegar is more than enough, plus it fights odors. As for how often you suggest to reapply board butter, I would say that most channels greatly exaggerate how long that lasts after use, especially with their "once or twice a month" talk. Realistically, if you are using the cutting board every day, then you should reapply it at the end of the day, or maybe first thing the next morning (if moisture needs to dry out). This is ESPECIALLY true if you have an end-grain cutting board. End grain cutting boards love to give off their oils faster than you can blink, especially after it's had some wear from use. Maybe if you only do light use every day then you could get away with waxing every other day, but realistically you are stripping all of that off with one use/cleaning.
When it comes time to re-condition, you don't need to apply nearly as much oil and paste as you are, since most of that is just being rubbed right off. For the mineral oil, just a couple drops in each quadrant is more than enough; you should really more just see the color of the wood change than actually see any shininess on top. And then for the wax right after, just take a microfiber applicator pad and leave the faintest film of swirls along the board. Then with light pressure, drag the pad across the board with the grain to sort of "polish" it up into as smooth as film as can be. Anything else is just wasteful. And the reason you keep dealing with leaching from your boards is because you are oversoaking them, and that's why you're having to wait 48-72 hours between applying paste, which defeats the purpose. Especially for end-grain boards like the ones you build, because they will suck up oil like 8x faster. Even when you opened up that new cutting board form the packaging at 0:31, you could see all that excess oil leaching out in the butcher paper. That is too much A proper care regiment can be done back to back, assuming the board is dry. I personally typically like to give it a quick vinegar spray during cooking cleanup, and then before bed or the next morning I can do the paste, or the oil and paste if it really needs it. But this is another reason that I really can't get behind end-grain boards for your main prep board; trying to keep them oiled without additional problems just becomes a pain, and their surfaces always turn so rough with basic wear. Edge grain will give you a much happier, easier (and not to mention more level) board.
Wow, didn't realize I was gonna go on a rant, but there you go, I guess. Hope some of that helps. At the end of the day, you're the one with your own business building these, and you're gonna make them the way you like. But I thought I'd at least offer the suggestion that you don't need to drench them like that when you make them or maintain them.
What is your preferred choice? Just oil? Or the oil and wax combo?
Hi Ryan, hope all is well!!! Great video and info!!! Thanks for sharing!!! 👌
Life is good my friend!
I have a chinese round chopping board - it's just a slice from a tree, about 10cm deep and about 50cm across. I've watched Chef Wang's video where you soak it in salt water for a week, then he heats oil to 200 degrees, and pours it on the still wet board. But the video is in Chinese and he doesn't say what oil to use. In this video you say 'Food Grade Mineral Oil,' but I've seen loads of people saying that's not good for the round tree boards. I just thought because you know your wood, you might know your oils??? Thanks for the content, love it.
Great video! Answered all my questions. Thank you!!
Awesome video. Thanks for your time and helpful instructions and sanitation tips.
Glad it was helpful!
Great tutorial 😊, I just need to know after I apply the wax & remove it 30min later, do I let it sit like the oil or just use it right away? Thanks
I like this one in video everything you make is sold
You’re boards are spectacular ❤️
Very informative, thank you! I like the idea of a metal handle on the cutting board (the grooves never work that well for picking a heavy board up, at least not with my arthritic hands). Can you point me to a retail/online source for simple sturdy handles that won't mind getting washed along with the cutting board? Stainless steel or ORB would be good.
Великолепный контент и прекрасные изделия.
Удачи.
Always a pleasure to watch great tips to
Lots of useful tips. Thanks!
I really enjoy your videos Ryan
Muchísimas gracias por tu enseñanza. y exitos en tu empresa.
After waxing and staining do I need to wash it before using it or it ready to be used after it dries?
Thanks for the video!
Thank youuuuu for the great video!
thank you for the tricks .
I assume it is exactly the same process for a solid oak kitchen worktop? I usually use Danish or Tung oil (not nearly often enough) but this seems a lot simpler. Great channel BTW
I would follow the same process. I like pure tung oil as well but it’s a hardening oil that takes several days to go through the proper application process whereas mineral oil is non drying and is simply quicker to apply
Great video!
I love that cutting board exactly how do I get that one as thick enough big enough and I love the handles. How much?
@@michellpapayani4643 please send me an email through the contact section on my website or a DM on instagram @westcoastboards
Once beeswax application is done, is it ready to use, or does it need time to set/dry?
Good tips. Thanks
I have a homemade cutting board that my son made in wood shop about 25 years ago. I’ve only recently started actually using it. I’m only using it to cut sourdough bread. Do I need to wash it every time I use it? I’ve been just brushing the crumbs off. Thanks!
Nah, that's totally fine to just brush the crumbs off, that's what I would do!
Awesome!!!
Thank you for the great tips 🙏
Can we use the usual dish washing detergent to wash it after use? Especially cutting raw meat?
Yes, regular dish washing soap should be fine!
If we oil both sides, how should we keep it for 24 hours? Should we put it upright?
How often do you have to treat it with beeswax and oil? After every use?
Thanks!
Thank you so much!
Thanks for sharing! I just watched a video of someone making condition with coconut oil instead of mineral, is that ok?
Nice!
Waa keren banget dan sangat jelas mudah di pahami penjelassnnya
How do you know when it’s time to sand the board back?
Can the rags used to spread the oil/beeswax be washed in the laundry? If not, what is the proper way?
Cool!
I have a little crock at the edge of my board forgot to order it for a while so I guess it happened. How do I fix it? Some people told me to put beeswax help 😢
At 4:12 did you say you can over do it? Or can’t over do it?
You can't over do it 🙂
Thank you! I was Curious too it's my first time@@ryanhawkins
Ok. So I am frustrated Ryan. Because I have a urethane varnished kitchen counter and I cannot find any video that explains how to get old or new stuck on residue cleans off. I recently moved to this house and stupidly tried to clean some stuck on food with plastic scrubbie and cleaners of various sorts and wound up removing the varnish and the goop and /or stain was still there!!! OMG. Heartbreaking.
Can you please advise what to do? Even scaling with plastic spatula takes off the urethane?!
Good video. What do you think of tung oil on cutting boards? Another YT did a comparison with mineral oil and it seemed tung oil was way better and lasted longer. Maybe he or I am missing something.
Great info. Thank you. 😁👍
No problem🙂
So then what do you use as a cutting surface for serrated knives?
I have an inexpensive wooden and “plastic” cutting boards that I use for my serrated knife when cutting bread and meats.
Would you recommend any soaps? Any soaps to stay away from? I’m generally of the mindset that Dawn or any degreaser is a no-go
Clark’s makes a good cutting board soap
Thank you, I was wondering what the best method for sanitizing after cutting meat with a nice wooden cutting board! Appreciate it.
vinegar is usually suggested
if there are deep cut marks can you sand it down to get rid of them?
For sure you can
Can you use Japanese Camellia Seed Oil on a wood cutting board? I use these on kitchen knives.
Hmm, I'm not familiar with that product.
Any thoughts on using a weak water / bleach solution?
I keep a kitchen towel in a1 gallon stainless steal steam table insert pan in the sink with about 1 oz of bleach to 1 gallon of warm water whenever I am preparing meat to clean hands, kitchen utensils and prep surfaces.
I’ve never tried it but I don’t see a more diluted bleach solution being an issue. Straight bleach is what I’d stay away from.
To sanitise my board I use 3% hydrogen peroxide when I wash it up. I use the same oil and wax as you 😊
So after every use, do you re-oil and wax or just re-oil?
I would just re oil, the wax is not needed as often
Is there an alternative to beeswax?
The video is awesome! Your boards are beautiful! Way more expensive than I can afford.
I purchase a really nice wooden chopping board of costco for a great deal they are on special and leansaid oil
Where do I cut my bread on if not a chopping block?
I wondered this too. What he said makes sense, of course, but I don’t know where else I’d slice bread 😅
Is linseed oil okay or should it be Mineral Oil?
You could use linseed oil
This might be a dumb question.. but does new cutting boards that are preoiled need to be washed before using? Im new to wood cutting boards and can't find this answer
Not dumb at all, my answer is no, they are good to start using right away.
Ty
How do I benefit from old plywood panels of different sizes?
I've seen some good results with tongue oil. What's your take on it?
I’ve used pure tung oil on furniture and I liked the result but due to the application process (multiple coats, 24 hours drying in between), I’ve never tried it on a cutting board.
@@ryanhawkins good points, I haven't done boards in many quantities and didn't take the dry time into consideration. Thanks for the reply and keep up the great work.
Food grade mineral oil is petrol, mmm, yum.
How about beeswax (applied) and then go over it with a heat source such as a hair dryer or heat gun? Obviously one would not want to exercise this method with a board with glue joints, but a solid cypress or paulownia board? To me, I feel that this would really open up the wood fibers, and make thicker natural oils/ waxes less viscous to penetrate deeper. 🤷🏻 just makes sense to me.
I’m currently in Tokyo and snagged a nice (one piece) paulownia board for 0.70¢ (tax included 😮). Great board for veggies and softer blades. Gonna lube it up when I get back home. Crazy how much these things sell for on Amazon! 😂 it’s a fast growing wood that is easily milled. I can see the online vendors laughing all the way to the bank.
How often should a person implement this process to a cutting board?
Depends on usage - minimum once a month but if used daily I'd recommend every 2 weeks. You can't really over do it.
@@ryanhawkins
Thank you very much!
wunnerful
You dont need to oil the sides of the cutting boards?
Yes, you sure do, I'm sorry I didn't show that
Any mineral oil sold in the grocery or drug store is food grade. I find commercial preparations for cutting boards to be a ripoff. OTOH, that is a really nice board.
Mantap , pak 🙏🙏🙏 salam sukses ,,, selalu ya 🙏 ❤️❤️
Thank you!
How do I fix a split on my board?
@michellpapayani4643 depending on the severity and location of the split, chances are you can't. Once the wood splits, it's very hard to make it whole again. If it's a tiny split, you may be able to inject some glue in it and apply a clamp to close it up. You're welcome to send me pics through the contact section of my website for further diagnosis.
@@ryanhawkins thank you I will. I’ll send you a picture.
I just shared this with my sister so she doesn’t ruin the boards I’ve given her.
won't soap remove all the oil protecting the board?
Gradually, yes, which is why it's important to routinely oil/wax a wooden board
@@ryanhawkins well yea, but you're not going to do that every time you wash it, no?
Not everytime you wash it, no, that would be a little much. But every couple of weeks to once a month depending on use and depending on use you might not even wash it with soap each time. Say you're just chopping some veggies, not really necessary to give it a full soap treatment after.
How do I buy a cutting board from you?
@@michellpapayani4643 simply head to the shop on my website: westcoastboards.ca
How do I go about buying a board from you?
Simply head over to my website - westcoastboards.ca
Wouldn’t that just make the board soapy without a rinse
Can i ask, are you worried about the soap seeping in? Dont you need to rinse the soap off?
👍👍👍
Great name
I think I'll just get a plastic one. I can put it in the sink and bam! Done. This is why my mom didn't want me to make her a wood cutting g board in school I guess
They’re nasty….and not environmentally friendly
@@DVelez-wz3fe oh boy. Heard another one.
Which is the right side to cut on? My brother in law swears you don't cut on top of the side with the juice grooves??????
Plastic it is, already got enough monthly tasks i have to worry about it, not tryna add stuff that isn’t necessary, i love simple
These are options but the amount of tiny plastic you will eventually cut into your food is going to happen no matter how carful you are
@@anthonyfournier1731 mostly all commercial kitchens use plastic and go way rougher, i honestly rarely do any cutting anyways, been using it mostly just season my raw meats on and cut every now and then, veggies i usually buy frozen already cut veggies, mostly just sausage, tomatoes, cheese, and cooked meats i gotta cut but im lazy and usually just cut while its on the dinner plate.
damn son. you look like a walmart paul rudd.
I will use my custom board like you should use a good car: abuse it and enjoy it.
And use a separate board for chicken!!!
thats not a board its a fucking table top 🤣 but thanks for the tips