For anyone watching this video wanting to do this to their truck. Ford has now stopped running the vacuum line across to the passenger side completely. There is still the nipple that is capped coming out of the axle, but nothing to connect the new small hose to. My truck is a February build and does not have it and I am hearing that is when they made the change. Looks like this video will only apply to Pre-February built 24 non-tremor models, unless you want to run the vacuum hose from across the drivers side of the axle.
That is quite disappointing,I checked my February Build F-250 SD and you are correct! Did not realize that when I bought it. Been weaning the 6.8 over to Premium 91 on Week 1 and noticed about 25% better mileage already with less than 200 Miles on a Positive Note.
For all of you with a '24 Super Duty that has the dummy hub and missing vacuum line, there is a Special Service Message (SSM) from Ford (came out on 10/1/24) on the vibration issue. Ford will install the parts described in this video under warranty. I had a leveling kit installed on Tuesday and that vibration was driving me NUTS. Took me and my shop a lot of research to figure out the issue. Glad I found this video! Thanks, Rocky Rohde!
So, what is the bulletin number? If I got to my dealer and say "hey, I heard there's a service bulletin about the dummy hub", they're undoubtedly say "do you have a number for it?" "We don't know anything about it".
I found SSM52113 earlier than the one your talking about and it says that is the proper function don't do anything to fix it. I'll keep looking for the "right" one
Thank you for posting. On my 2024 F350 I put a 3.5 Carli back country with 2 degree caster shim and had a humming noise. We put the factory shim 1 degree back on and I can’t hear it seemed to resolve the issue. I think I will put this hub on as well. Really appreciate it!!
Enjoyed your viedo, Leveling sensor part #'s are PC3C-3C438-A* (Left) PC3C-3C097--A *(Right) you are spot on but you will see a little difference in trucks built after mid Feb this year the crossover vacuum line will be different in the line that comes to the Left side at the jounce hose bracket will not be there so you will have to also change the crossover vacum line completely or add the hose that came accross to that side.
I just commented as well, my February build doesn't have the vacuum line to connect the small hose to. Do you have any info on adding the hose to run across from the drivers side? I can't seem to find anything. I have the hub and small hose ready to go on, but nothing to connect it to.
Replaced my dummy hub and vacuum line this morning. Took ten minutes. No wheel removal necessary, just replace the hub, crank the truck, turn the wheel full right to give you room to replace the line and shut the truck off so the wheel will remain turned. Ops check was as expected. No more spinning R/H shaft.
Why would Ford do this, and only to the passenger side? Aside from premature wear of the axle components it will negatively affect fuel economy. I've always hated their vacuum actuated hubs due to their unreliability, but at least if/when they failed it was usually in the unlocked state because of a vacuum leak, and I could then manually lock them with the selector on both wheels. Thanks for putting this out, I would definitely swap it if I had a 24!
Assuming it must be cost cutting with the cheaper hub assembly but then it's also an extra part to produce and stock and they lose that tiny bit of average fuel economy so not sure how it's really worth it for them.
Have a 2024 on order and scheduled for week 11/18 build.Have a set of Warn Hubs on order. I plan on plugging off the unplugged (driver's) side.Manual (quality) hubs only.
To answer concerns in a previous comment, I too ordered the hub assy from Lakeland Ford last week. It was not in stock but not discontinued. When I took the part number to my local Ford dealer they assured me it is a valid number for a 2023 R/H hub. No way they'd discontinue a part for a year-old truck. The part is still in production, just backordered. Since our 2024's came with a dummy hub on the R/H side, there never was a valid p/n for a R/H hub assy on a 2024. We have to use the R/H for a 2023.
My 2024 XL STX is a mid-January '24 build and has the R/H vacuum line as well as the nipple on the wheel side. Both are capped. The problem I have is finding the parts. Everyone is out-of-stock and Ford is backordered until 3/28 at the earliest. My dealer tells me to expect that to be bumped back a couple of times at least. FoMoCo really cheaped out on this one for sure. Wouldn't have prevented me from buying the truck but definitely food for thought. Where else did they screw us? Thanks for the video!
Just a heads-up from my comments of yesterday......my local Ford dealer called today and said my hub assembly and vacuum hose have arrived. I'll stop by this afternoon and check that they're correct and if so, pick them up. Good news! I guess they're available after all.
@@keithreinert5835 I used the one that is listed in the video. It's the short one. If the truck was built in February it probably won't have the vacuum line that crosses over from the left side either.
Just took delivery of my 2024 F-350 SRW 4x4 and it does not have the tube run to the passenger side like shown in the video. I've seen that some folks on other channels say you just need to also by part number HC3Z-3C124-A but I would love to see a installation video if anyone does it. I really want to do this change to my truck but worry the vacuum line not being run to the passenger side now is a problem I couldn't tackle myself.
My f350 is a 2/24 build and did not have the long line going to the valve. Had to order Line assembly - HC3Z-3C124-A as well as the other 2 part numbers listed here.
This is awesome! I installed a 2 inch bds level kit and it came with caster shims. I have a 24 model and adding those shims caused a terrible vibration. So I had to go with a lesser degree shim. Unfortunately the steering is wandering and the steering wheel doesn’t return to center very well. If I do this axel swap and then add the higher degree caster shims theoretically this should solve my problem.
Hey Rocky! Really enjoy your videos, and your attention to detail. I know you are busy, but would truly appreciate you opinion on lifting my 24 f250 lariat 7.3. Im honestly only looking to match the height of a tremor so im guessing 1.5-2 front lift and inch roughly in rear. Im scared to develop vibrations and shudders so want to be careful what i do. I ordered the hub to swap passenger side like you did. Rear i assume i will order tremor blocks and u bolts. Would really like to know what you would buy for the front to just gain 1.5-2 inches lift and maintain ride quality and reduce risk of issues. You seem particular like me, so opinion would be valued greatly. Thank you very much.
I did the ready lift 1.5” bottom spring spacer on the front of my 23 platinum and it was great with zero issues. I would 100% recommend this.. I think it’s less than 100 bucks and rides great. Look up my video on 23 platinum
I'll follow up as promised, then I'll shut up. The hub and hose were the correct items so picked them up. Right at $200 from the dealership for both. A bit pricey but they got them quickly and I didn't have to pay extra shipping. It'll be interesting to see if I can feel any difference in the front end.
I really like both brands and have used Carli radius arms in the past. The main reason is Carli is 3.5” and Icon is 2.5". I tow a very large toy hauler that is 13’6" and I need to stay as low as possible. Icons dual rate seems pretty close to Carli progressive but the 3.5" coil will have a slight advantage due to size. The Carli radius arms are more heavy duty than icon in my opinion but will affect my weight and payload. If I was planning to Baja the Carli’s are built like a tank.. The Icons radius arms shine as they are in the middle and provide way more clearance for 37" tires. I have had both kits on my rams and fords.. I have never been disappointed with either kit. Hope this helps with your decision.
Thanks for the reply. The Carli kit is 3.5” lift on a 2020 or newer truck and Icon tells me their kit is 2.5” on a 2020 or newer truck. Do you still use the taller factory rear tremor blocks with the 2.5” Icon kit? Also, do you know the reason Ford is using this dummy hub on the 24 model trucks?
You seem pretty smart. I'm building off road camping truck with my 23 f250 I removed my swaybar for articulation off road. Besides hauling heavy loads at high speeds is it hurting anything?
Prob first thing is going to be is shocks.. The sway bar limits travel so your shocks don’t get over extended. I would look for a disconnecting sway bar if possible. In turns it’s all good until it’s not.. Once that limit is reached you could possibly flex radius arms. If you turn to sharp at speed the trackbar could extend and it’s possible the coil springs could make an exit and radius arms would bend and shocks would break.. I know this sound drastic but a hard turn at speed to dodge something could happen.. front swaybar keeps things in limits.. If you plan to keep it off I would look at Carli radius arms with limit straps.. The stock arms are not extremely sturdy built for side to side inertia… Carli arms have built in limit straps and are built for side inertia..
Great video. I just a July build and I don't have the crossover line. My question is if you buy the whole vacuum (long line), do you still need the short one for the right hub? Don't know if the long one includes that short span like the video shows.
@@RockyRohde Let me ask you about this until I figure out the vacuum lines. If I install new Warn locking hubs and left the vacuum lines alone on my 2024, when I select 4x4 in the cab, I just need to manually lock the right hub only, correct? Locking just the right hub puts it back to how it is now from the factory. Is there something I'm missing?
Did you install the caster shim after installing the lift? I have a 3” BDS and it has 3 settings for caster on the radius arm. The truck vibrates and steers horribly. Can you give me a suggestion?
Did you tape your sensor arms in place or anything? mine had no resistance and feel they would just drop. Great vid, trying to decide weather to move forward on this for my 1.5" Plat level.
@@RockyRohdeDid you use the caster shims on your Platinum with the 1.5" level? My steering feels pretty close now without them but plan to do these upgrades.
Hi Rocky, do you by chance know what your Caster is set at? I have changed the job and vacuum line but I am having vibrations between 70-80 MPh and have adjusted my BDS radius arms to try and help. Currently I am at 6.5 and 6.9. Any info would be great. Thanks
Just bought a 24 so why did ford do this ? Anyway guess it is just like drivers side auto or manual. Do have one question is the front axle a locker or limited slip?
I checked my truck I don't find a vacuum line on the passenger side. Do some trucks not have it? There is the capped line on the hub assembly. But nothing on the truck I can find
@@RockyRohde I bought one,well almost finishing the purchase so I have not signed. 23 and it’s obnoxious. I honestly don’t think I can take it with the noise although it’s a very nice truck.
I appreciate it! I just got a carli 3.5 level on mine 2 and started doing humming noises. I just ordered the hub and line, and will change asap! I’m hoping that it will stop. ? Is will have to go back and change the caster Shims to the Original from Ford…..
Trying this on my new 2024 Lariat and I do not have the vaccum line...so I purchased it, but my truck seems to be different. On the existing vaccum line that comes down from the top of the motor, it branches off into the diff, but the replacement tube does not have this. So confused on how to proceed? Any advice?
@@RockyRohde Thx. I ordered the line, but it does not have the branch that would go into the diff. If I install the new hub w/o the vaccum line attached, I assume it just becomes a manual lock and unlock hub at that point?
@@RockyRohde Yes I have that coming off of the brake, but my vacuum line has a branch that goes into the diff (pumpkin) on the front axle, but the part everyone has been using (vacuum line to connect both driver and passenger) does not have this connection to the diff.
Yes only difference you may see is the crossover vacuum lines if it's built after mid Feb the crossover vacuum line will not go to the left side but the hub plug and hub lock are the same.
Folks, I got some bad news. I had ordered a 2024 F350 Lariat Super Crew Tremor, 6’7” bed, 7.3 gasser. It arrived with the hokey setup for the front axle described in this video. I was only averaging 9.3 mpg. Long story short I didn’t keep the truck because of this issue, …long time Ford customer. I made an assumption, shame on me. Won’t happen twice.
Sir, thank you very much for taking the time to do this EXCELLENT video and sharing with us, PLEASE stay healthy and safe out there!
For anyone watching this video wanting to do this to their truck. Ford has now stopped running the vacuum line across to the passenger side completely. There is still the nipple that is capped coming out of the axle, but nothing to connect the new small hose to. My truck is a February build and does not have it and I am hearing that is when they made the change. Looks like this video will only apply to Pre-February built 24 non-tremor models, unless you want to run the vacuum hose from across the drivers side of the axle.
That is quite disappointing,I checked my February Build F-250 SD and you are correct! Did not realize that when I bought it.
Been weaning the 6.8 over to Premium 91 on Week 1 and noticed about 25% better mileage already with less than 200 Miles on a Positive Note.
There is a $40 complete vacuum hose assembly available, just look it up on a 2023 model. Plugs right in with keepers and clips. 20 minute install.
@@ShelbyvsViperis there a part number you could share?
Hc3z-3c124-a
I had to find another video to ever find it but that is vacuum hose assembly. Let me know if you need other two part numbers. The hub and short line
I have been waiting for some one with a non tremor 2024 to put a video out on how to do this. Thank you for the details.
Thanks for watching!
For all of you with a '24 Super Duty that has the dummy hub and missing vacuum line, there is a Special Service Message (SSM) from Ford (came out on 10/1/24) on the vibration issue. Ford will install the parts described in this video under warranty. I had a leveling kit installed on Tuesday and that vibration was driving me NUTS. Took me and my shop a lot of research to figure out the issue. Glad I found this video! Thanks, Rocky Rohde!
Thanks for watching!
So my dealer will install what this guy did for free!?
So, what is the bulletin number? If I got to my dealer and say "hey, I heard there's a service bulletin about the dummy hub", they're undoubtedly say "do you have a number for it?" "We don't know anything about it".
I found SSM52113 earlier than the one your talking about and it says that is the proper function don't do anything to fix it. I'll keep looking for the "right" one
@@tollav ssm52423 is the tsb you are looking for.
Thank you for posting. On my 2024 F350 I put a 3.5 Carli back country with 2 degree caster shim and had a humming noise. We put the factory shim 1 degree back on and I can’t hear it seemed to resolve the issue. I think I will put this hub on as well. Really appreciate it!!
Enjoyed your viedo, Leveling sensor part #'s are PC3C-3C438-A* (Left) PC3C-3C097--A *(Right) you are spot on but you will see a little difference in trucks built after mid Feb this year the crossover vacuum line will be different in the line that comes to the Left side at the jounce hose bracket will not be there so you will have to also change the crossover vacum line completely or add the hose that came accross to that side.
I just commented as well, my February build doesn't have the vacuum line to connect the small hose to. Do you have any info on adding the hose to run across from the drivers side? I can't seem to find anything. I have the hub and small hose ready to go on, but nothing to connect it to.
@@colinmitchell536. Same problem on mine?
Replaced my dummy hub and vacuum line this morning. Took ten minutes. No wheel removal necessary, just replace the hub, crank the truck, turn the wheel full right to give you room to replace the line and shut the truck off so the wheel will remain turned. Ops check was as expected. No more spinning R/H shaft.
Why would Ford do this, and only to the passenger side? Aside from premature wear of the axle components it will negatively affect fuel economy. I've always hated their vacuum actuated hubs due to their unreliability, but at least if/when they failed it was usually in the unlocked state because of a vacuum leak, and I could then manually lock them with the selector on both wheels. Thanks for putting this out, I would definitely swap it if I had a 24!
Assuming it must be cost cutting with the cheaper hub assembly but then it's also an extra part to produce and stock and they lose that tiny bit of average fuel economy so not sure how it's really worth it for them.
That's very interesting I wonder why Ford would do that they've always been proud of being able to unlock the front end.
Cost cutting. Like de-contenting the 2025 trucks and charging more for them.
@@mojo4376 yeah I seen that That's absolutely ridiculous.
Have a 2024 on order and scheduled for week 11/18 build.Have a set of Warn Hubs on order. I plan on plugging off the unplugged (driver's) side.Manual (quality) hubs only.
Good choice!
To answer concerns in a previous comment, I too ordered the hub assy from Lakeland Ford last week. It was not in stock but not discontinued. When I took the part number to my local Ford dealer they assured me it is a valid number for a 2023 R/H hub. No way they'd discontinue a part for a year-old truck. The part is still in production, just backordered. Since our 2024's came with a dummy hub on the R/H side, there never was a valid p/n for a R/H hub assy on a 2024. We have to use the R/H for a 2023.
My 2024 XL STX is a mid-January '24 build and has the R/H vacuum line as well as the nipple on the wheel side. Both are capped. The problem I have is finding the parts. Everyone is out-of-stock and Ford is backordered until 3/28 at the earliest. My dealer tells me to expect that to be bumped back a couple of times at least. FoMoCo really cheaped out on this one for sure. Wouldn't have prevented me from buying the truck but definitely food for thought. Where else did they screw us? Thanks for the video!
Just a heads-up from my comments of yesterday......my local Ford dealer called today and said my hub assembly and vacuum hose have arrived. I'll stop by this afternoon and check that they're correct and if so, pick them up. Good news! I guess they're available after all.
What part numbers did you use for the vacuum line that is mission on newer trucks post Feb build 24
@@keithreinert5835 I used the one that is listed in the video. It's the short one. If the truck was built in February it probably won't have the vacuum line that crosses over from the left side either.
Just took delivery of my 2024 F-350 SRW 4x4 and it does not have the tube run to the passenger side like shown in the video. I've seen that some folks on other channels say you just need to also by part number HC3Z-3C124-A but I would love to see a installation video if anyone does it. I really want to do this change to my truck but worry the vacuum line not being run to the passenger side now is a problem I couldn't tackle myself.
Thanks Rocky Rhode
Thanks for watching!
My f350 is a 2/24 build and did not have the long line going to the valve. Had to order Line assembly - HC3Z-3C124-A as well as the other 2 part numbers listed here.
This is awesome! I installed a 2 inch bds level kit and it came with caster shims. I have a 24 model and adding those shims caused a terrible vibration. So I had to go with a lesser degree shim. Unfortunately the steering is wandering and the steering wheel doesn’t return to center very well. If I do this axel swap and then add the higher degree caster shims theoretically this should solve my problem.
Yes you can add caster shims after changing hub
I have a 2024 F450 with the dummy hub, but there is no vacuum hose running to the right side unlike your truck. so I will need the hose kit.
Yeah when I did this video they were still building with vacuum line.
Thanks for the video, I will look to do it on mine👍🏻
My 2024 F-250 is at the dealership now having the dummy hub replaced with the manual locking hub and both vacuum lines.
did they do the replacement under warranty?
@@walterhdonnellan3, yes. Well, one of the vacuum lines is on back order so we're waiting for it to come in.
What about on my 24 f250 KR built on 9/24 what is stamped on the door? Do I need to get this replaced?
Great video
Hey Rocky! Really enjoy your videos, and your attention to detail. I know you are busy, but would truly appreciate you opinion on lifting my 24 f250 lariat 7.3. Im honestly only looking to match the height of a tremor so im guessing 1.5-2 front lift and inch roughly in rear. Im scared to develop vibrations and shudders so want to be careful what i do. I ordered the hub to swap passenger side like you did. Rear i assume i will order tremor blocks and u bolts. Would really like to know what you would buy for the front to just gain 1.5-2 inches lift and maintain ride quality and reduce risk of issues. You seem particular like me, so opinion would be valued greatly. Thank you very much.
I did the ready lift 1.5” bottom spring spacer on the front of my 23 platinum and it was great with zero issues. I would 100% recommend this.. I think it’s less than 100 bucks and rides great. Look up my video on 23 platinum
I'll follow up as promised, then I'll shut up. The hub and hose were the correct items so picked them up. Right at $200 from the dealership for both. A bit pricey but they got them quickly and I didn't have to pay extra shipping. It'll be interesting to see if I can feel any difference in the front end.
Can you do a video on your Icon leveling kit and why you chose this kit VS a Carli Kit?
I really like both brands and have used Carli radius arms in the past. The main reason is Carli is 3.5” and Icon is 2.5". I tow a very large toy hauler that is 13’6" and I need to stay as low as possible. Icons dual rate seems pretty close to Carli progressive but the 3.5" coil will have a slight advantage due to size. The Carli radius arms are more heavy duty than icon in my opinion but will affect my weight and payload. If I was planning to Baja the Carli’s are built like a tank.. The Icons radius arms shine as they are in the middle and provide way more clearance for 37" tires. I have had both kits on my rams and fords.. I have never been disappointed with either kit. Hope this helps with your decision.
Thanks for the reply. The Carli kit is 3.5” lift on a 2020 or newer truck and Icon tells me their kit is 2.5” on a 2020 or newer truck. Do you still use the taller factory rear tremor blocks with the 2.5” Icon kit? Also, do you know the reason Ford is using this dummy hub on the 24 model trucks?
What about not having the vacuum line capped. It’s just on my passenger hun side?
You seem pretty smart. I'm building off road camping truck with my 23 f250 I removed my swaybar for articulation off road. Besides hauling heavy loads at high speeds is it hurting anything?
Prob first thing is going to be is shocks.. The sway bar limits travel so your shocks don’t get over extended. I would look for a disconnecting sway bar if possible. In turns it’s all good until it’s not.. Once that limit is reached you could possibly flex radius arms. If you turn to sharp at speed the trackbar could extend and it’s possible the coil springs could make an exit and radius arms would bend and shocks would break.. I know this sound drastic but a hard turn at speed to dodge something could happen.. front swaybar keeps things in limits.. If you plan to keep it off I would look at Carli radius arms with limit straps.. The stock arms are not extremely sturdy built for side to side inertia… Carli arms have built in limit straps and are built for side inertia..
Thanks I'll look into that!
The caster shims are not needed for stock suspension correct?
Correct
My 2024 without a lift needs the constant correction you talk about above 65.
Great video. I just a July build and I don't have the crossover line. My question is if you buy the whole vacuum (long line), do you still need the short one for the right hub? Don't know if the long one includes that short span like the video shows.
Yes you will still need the short line a believe
@@RockyRohde Let me ask you about this until I figure out the vacuum lines. If I install new Warn locking hubs and left the vacuum lines alone on my 2024, when I select 4x4 in the cab, I just need to manually lock the right hub only, correct? Locking just the right hub puts it back to how it is now from the factory. Is there something I'm missing?
Thats what im going to try! I dont mind getting out to lock em in. @williamcone5773
Could you tell a difference in the steering after swapping it out
Although recessed in axle housing, the new '24 F450 has the same Dummy Hub? Can be replaced the same way & numbers?
Good information and i believe this is a good thing to do. So cheap and stupid of Ford to have done this🤦♂️
Did you install the caster shim after installing the lift? I have a 3” BDS and it has 3 settings for caster on the radius arm. The truck vibrates and steers horribly. Can you give me a suggestion?
Did you tape your sensor arms in place or anything? mine had no resistance and feel they would just drop. Great vid, trying to decide weather to move forward on this for my 1.5" Plat level.
I ordered the radius arms brackets from icon today.. my sensors just stay at 90 degrees no issues
@@RockyRohdeDid you use the caster shims on your Platinum with the 1.5" level? My steering feels pretty close now without them but plan to do these upgrades.
@profittj1779 yes
Did you say that you removed the sensors on the radius arms? What did you do exactly?
Just disconnected links.. Keep sensors in stock position..
Hi Rocky, do you by chance know what your Caster is set at? I have changed the job and vacuum line but I am having vibrations between 70-80 MPh and have adjusted my BDS radius arms to try and help. Currently I am at 6.5 and 6.9. Any info would be great. Thanks
I think you have to much caster. I run 3.5 to 4 with no issues but I don’t exceed 5
Just bought a 24 so why did ford do this ? Anyway guess it is just like drivers side auto or manual.
Do have one question is the front axle a locker or limited slip?
I checked my truck I don't find a vacuum line on the passenger side. Do some trucks not have it? There is the capped line on the hub assembly. But nothing on the truck I can find
Ford started removing the line. You will need to order it also..
Rocky, can you hear your 10sp whining at idle and at takeoff?
I have heard it on others but mine has not.. I was walking by a 23 the other day in the drive thru and I could hear a whine from trans..
@@RockyRohde I bought one,well almost finishing the purchase so I have not signed. 23 and it’s obnoxious. I honestly don’t think I can take it with the noise although it’s a very nice truck.
Can you do this with 2024 F-250 gasser?
Yes
I appreciate it! I just got a carli 3.5 level on mine 2 and started doing humming noises. I just ordered the hub and line, and will change asap! I’m hoping that it will stop. ? Is will have to go back and change the caster Shims to the Original from Ford…..
@JoeM1984 hub should fix it
Did they change that back on the 2025
Wouldn’t leaving the dummy in hurt gas mileage?
Trying this on my new 2024 Lariat and I do not have the vaccum line...so I purchased it, but my truck seems to be different. On the existing vaccum line that comes down from the top of the motor, it branches off into the diff, but the replacement tube does not have this. So confused on how to proceed? Any advice?
Will prob need another line.. ford deleted crossover line since I made this video
@@RockyRohde Thx. I ordered the line, but it does not have the branch that would go into the diff. If I install the new hub w/o the vaccum line attached, I assume it just becomes a manual lock and unlock hub at that point?
@@johnbottoms8140 yes.. You don’t have the vacuum stub that is plugged at the knuckle?
@@RockyRohde Yes I have that coming off of the brake, but my vacuum line has a branch that goes into the diff (pumpkin) on the front axle, but the part everyone has been using (vacuum line to connect both driver and passenger) does not have this connection to the diff.
Are the part numbers the same for the 2024 F450?
Should be.. Have ford check it to driver side hub on your truck.
@@RockyRohde Thanks. I will once I get it. I have been waiting for this truck for almost 2 years.
Yes only difference you may see is the crossover vacuum lines if it's built after mid Feb the crossover vacuum line will not go to the left side but the hub plug and hub lock are the same.
@@toddlitton7834 Thank you. It isn't scheduled to be built until the and of March.
@@rich7447 is it a diesel? I like the looks of the 450 box trucks rolling off the line hope it's a great truck for you!
Does this work on a 2024 250 xlt?
It should if it has the dummy hub on passenger side..
Folks, I got some bad news. I had ordered a 2024 F350 Lariat Super Crew Tremor, 6’7” bed, 7.3 gasser. It arrived with the hokey setup for the front axle described in this video. I was only averaging 9.3 mpg. Long story short I didn’t keep the truck because of this issue, …long time Ford customer. I made an assumption, shame on me. Won’t happen twice.
Just tried to order the hub and it says discontinued?
Ya, I got the same from Lakeland Ford
Contact napa auto parts
Great video. But you mean to tell me that Ford charge you more for the truck and give you less now.
Took me longer to take the plastic covers off than to install the hub.
Dodge had a crap setup kinda like that.
Good now I don't have 2 do a video 🫡
Is it worth doing the swap to the auto/lock hubs?