If i'm correct the crankshaft bearing is an PTFE bearing and should NOT be oiled but needs to be placed on dry surface.... they will leak again... but good job anyways on the timing belt and taking the time to replace the bearing. I would change the crankshaft pulley aswell since i've had some who were worn out causing motormanagement issues and hard starts. Also needed to remove the sump to put on bearing but i know its much more time consuming.
I’ve done loads of these and undo the fuel pump sprocket nut too as per manual. I fit the idler before the belt but I know that it’s probably a trait you’ve continued from the earlier Vw Diesel engines where yeah it makes it easier to fit the belt without the idler in place, not so much on these but nice work
Never slackened the pulleys on these ever. Easy enough to do without. When you put the cambelt on pull all your tension around the waterpump and fuel pump. Easiest one you will ever do
That was superb to watch. I've just had my crank seal replaced by the main dealer and a big long life service just before it. I'd asked them to explain the part the were replacing or at least take a photo or video clip (they manage to show you a clip of the fluid levels and spend an age with a tyre gauge, everything I can do myself, but nothing more!). I've found your channel by chance and I've immediately followed you and liked this ...double thumbs up from me. I really appreciate the simple tips that you have blatantly learnt from doing this over and again - like the orientation of taking off bits of trim or the direction to push or pull a clip and the Nm torque settings. Last quick question - when swapping the fuel filter to 'prime' do you just add some diesel from a can into the filter before reconnecting, or is there another neat way to do it? Thank you again - just superb... and if your company is anywhere near me I'll be using you instead of the main dealer!
Crankshaft seal should be fitted when sump is off, because if you don't then u will get the same leak after next 30-40k, which is wrong, the Crankshaft seal should last much longer than that... But still it's a nice video, thanks mate
I did want to ask you a question if I may This is what's happening The coolent tank develops a vacuum so the coolent light comes on and when you look at the tank it looks low on coolent byt when you take the cap of the tank fills uk on its own I am really not sure as to whats happening Any ideas?
Hi guys, I have a T5.1 2,0TDI 2014 engine..replaced the timing belt everything looks fine but when i put the crankshaft locking tool in place.. the locking pin for the camshaft wont go in. aprroxemetly 1 mm out of the middle. is this oke ? the locking pin for the HD pomp goes in smoothly. what do you think. its not a tooth off. impossible.
great video man ! I have a 1.6 tdi EA288 engine and I already replaced 2 times that crankshaft seal , i know that they are prone to fail but I don't get it why . Based on the lip deformation , it looks like the crank shaft isn't centered . I replaced the 2 main seals and clutch last April , the gearbox side was good and dry but I did it anyway , yesterday I saw that the belt side is already starting to leak again , always from the lip\shaft . Can the crankshaft be off balance and only leaking on one side ? I can see a little of deviation\wobling on the v-belt pulley when running at idle .. could a bad sprocket or v-belt pulley throw the shaft a little bit off balance and wreck the seal ? the seal isn't lasting more than 4 or 5000 km , I already used oem and aftermarket seal (elring one)
@@Yaroslav_1_9 you should remove the oil sump if you want to replace the oil seal for this EA288 engines . If you just want to do the timing belt , you don't need to remove it
Does anyone know anything about a updated timing belt COVER for the T5 called a "Robustness Kit" ?? They reckon If the serpentine belt breaks it goes thru the oem cover and gets tangled it the timing belt. Tried a couple of dealers with no luck
Great video! How long does the small toothed belt for the oil pump last? According to VW there is no specified limit, but some saya it is 300K km (180K miles). Does anybody have any experience on it? Thanks!
I can buy a mayle water pump and timing kit more than half price for VW t6 2017 plate would you recommend this brand or stick with VW parts thanks David
is this same engine that's in vw golf 2.0 tdi same year? how many miles has it done ? thanks 👌 i was told for vw golf 2017 its 5 years. and vw said they only replace belt and water pump 😮
Hey, nice video! I want to ask if you need to replace the bolts with a torque+degree rating like 70NM+90° ? Like the accessory belt tensioner? In the original volkswagen shop manual it says that you need the replace every bolt which has a degree rating ??? I wonder if anyone is doing that because it would be pretty expensive on bigger jobs.... Thanks for help ;)
Yes , you should change any bolt with a angle torque rating , i did this job on my car and replaced every bolt . Was 13 in total (if i recall correctly) . The sump was removed because thats what vw say to do when changing this oil seal
@Smithy18 many bolts on a mk7 are one time use and there are some exceptions too , the transmission shaft flange bolts have only a torque rating and they are one time use
this is why i buy cheap simple cars with a timing chain. i've driven 4 million miles in my life and never had a chain fail on any car or bike. had a few belts snap. cant buy cars with this expensive shite. here in sweden franchised dealers charge 400 quid an hour. i would sooner scrap the car than pay those crooks
is that a belt driving the oil pump behind the new crank seal housing? I wonder if that'll last forever? We have the 2.5 TDI in our t5 which had neither belt nor chain... That's the only real good thing about it
@@VAGTechnic It should be replaced with cambelt. Mine broke at 270k km. And if dealeship replaced it at 120k km, then it means that it's lifespan was even shorter.
This is what is called professionalism. Great video man.
I love it when you describe the process in detail, I would like to know better how you determine belt tension better.
If i'm correct the crankshaft bearing is an PTFE bearing and should NOT be oiled but needs to be placed on dry surface.... they will leak again...
but good job anyways on the timing belt and taking the time to replace the bearing.
I would change the crankshaft pulley aswell since i've had some who were worn out causing motormanagement issues and hard starts.
Also needed to remove the sump to put on bearing but i know its much more time consuming.
As far as I know the torque spec for the lug bolts are (unlike passenger cars) 180 Nms.
I’ve done loads of these and undo the fuel pump sprocket nut too as per manual. I fit the idler before the belt but I know that it’s probably a trait you’ve continued from the earlier Vw Diesel engines where yeah it makes it easier to fit the belt without the idler in place, not so much on these but nice work
Never slackened the pulleys on these ever. Easy enough to do without. When you put the cambelt on pull all your tension around the waterpump and fuel pump. Easiest one you will ever do
@@petemechanic8249 easy enough to do it the right way mate, they were made like that for a reason. Too many lazy mechanics
@@reece1308 never ever slacken the pulleys. Easy enough to do without
This is a perfect mechanic for a vw repair video ...... Great video, thanks for the info.
9:27 I’m glad I’m not the only one who uses persuasive language like this when working on my car! 🤣
Great video as always. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Yeah I love watching a master at work
most of that bead of silicon you put on would have been pushed inwards and will eventually end up in the oil pump good video very informative
That was superb to watch. I've just had my crank seal replaced by the main dealer and a big long life service just before it. I'd asked them to explain the part the were replacing or at least take a photo or video clip (they manage to show you a clip of the fluid levels and spend an age with a tyre gauge, everything I can do myself, but nothing more!). I've found your channel by chance and I've immediately followed you and liked this ...double thumbs up from me. I really appreciate the simple tips that you have blatantly learnt from doing this over and again - like the orientation of taking off bits of trim or the direction to push or pull a clip and the Nm torque settings.
Last quick question - when swapping the fuel filter to 'prime' do you just add some diesel from a can into the filter before reconnecting, or is there another neat way to do it?
Thank you again - just superb... and if your company is anywhere near me I'll be using you instead of the main dealer!
Cool, je viens de faire sur un Caddy et ça semble encore plus simple sur le T6.
Great video, really nice to see someone who wants it to be right👍👍
What is the toothed belt for at 16:40 going into the sump? Great vid Thank you
Its a wet timing belt for the oil pump in the sump
And it should be replaced also!
Thanks for the great video. What brand of spanners are you using and can you give us a tool box tour. Thanks.
How does this repair hold up? VW describes that the sump should be removed to seal it properly when replacing the crankshaft seal.
Piekna robota, dzięki za wideo❤
Crankshaft bolt 180 nm/135 degrees.
Počujem dobre žeby Slováci super práca cením spravená tak ako by mala
Aj ja som sa potešil ked som pocul slovenčinu 🙂
tahaj tahaj :D a nebo senzacia v pohybe :D
To sú naši kuaa 😄
Great videos love your channel from a t5 owner
If you want to just change the crank pulley do you need to lock off the cam? I would not think so if it’s just those 4 bolts
Krásná práce chlapy! At se daří v zahraničí :)
Excelente trabajo y muy buena explicación a detalle recuerdo mi juventud cuando era un tigre para realizar reparación de motor
Nice. Could you explain or show how you supported the engine not falling down?
On this ramp there’s hydraulic Jack . Normally you need engine support from
Top
Crankshaft seal should be fitted when sump is off, because if you don't then u will get the same leak after next 30-40k, which is wrong, the Crankshaft seal should last much longer than that...
But still it's a nice video, thanks mate
Could you explain why?
Great job. Хлопці ви молотці.
hello petite question comment l'on change des bougie de préchauffages sur van t6 transporteur 4 motions 2017 svp ? Frédéric
Hi there. What's the procedure for coolant bleeding after replacing the timing belt ? Thanks
I did want to ask you a question if I may
This is what's happening
The coolent tank develops a vacuum so the coolent light comes on and when you look at the tank it looks low on coolent byt when you take the cap of the tank fills uk on its own
I am really not sure as to whats happening
Any ideas?
Don't you also have to loosen the pump nut according to VW instructions? I know it CR pump doesn't really care about timing but..
Great job , is this the CXG engine ?
Big like for your way of work
Hi guys,
I have a T5.1 2,0TDI 2014 engine..replaced the timing belt everything looks fine but when i put the crankshaft locking tool in place.. the locking pin for the camshaft wont go in. aprroxemetly 1 mm out of the middle. is this oke ? the locking pin for the HD pomp goes in smoothly. what do you think. its not a tooth off. impossible.
Hi Mate how long to do this whole job? Also do you have a link for the torque tool you used ? Is it must to use the timing tools ?
Hi, why you don,t renew the oilpump belt as well?
- extra charge sump have to be removed
- costumer didn’t require such a service at the time
@@VAGTechnic I would highly recommend it.
Здравствуйте. Подскажите артикул и фирму набора фиксаторов коленвала, распредвала и шкива ТНВД. Данный набор подойдëт для дизеля TDI (VAG) CXFA, 2.0 л, 150 л.с? Авто - Фольскваген Каравелла Т6.1.
Amazing and quick job, as always, thanks for share, I like the same your special tools, what we doing without inspiration? Good idea
Nice work. How long did this take????
You are great!!! Thanks a lot!
great video man ! I have a 1.6 tdi EA288 engine and I already replaced 2 times that crankshaft seal , i know that they are prone to fail but I don't get it why . Based on the lip deformation , it looks like the crank shaft isn't centered . I replaced the 2 main seals and clutch last April , the gearbox side was good and dry but I did it anyway , yesterday I saw that the belt side is already starting to leak again , always from the lip\shaft . Can the crankshaft be off balance and only leaking on one side ? I can see a little of deviation\wobling on the v-belt pulley when running at idle .. could a bad sprocket or v-belt pulley throw the shaft a little bit off balance and wreck the seal ? the seal isn't lasting more than 4 or 5000 km , I already used oem and aftermarket seal (elring one)
when replacing do you remove the engine pan or do you do as shown in the video?
@@Yaroslav_1_9 you should remove the oil sump if you want to replace the oil seal for this EA288 engines . If you just want to do the timing belt , you don't need to remove it
Love it the way is shown thank you
What's the little torque tool u use seri use it a lot in your videos
is same engine as Vw crafter?
Does anyone know anything about a updated timing belt COVER for the T5 called a "Robustness Kit" ??
They reckon If the serpentine belt breaks it goes thru the oem cover and gets tangled it the timing belt. Tried a couple of dealers with no luck
Haven't heard of the belt, but I have heard of a couple cases of such happening with the serpentine belt!
20:46 Dobre!:)
Thank you for your video, I have decided on the strength of this viewing that it perhaps is not a job that I can do.
Great video! How long does the small toothed belt for the oil pump last? According to VW there is no specified limit, but some saya it is 300K km (180K miles). Does anybody have any experience on it? Thanks!
Seen them go even at 80k
@@VAGTechnic I think it happens if people use oil which is not specified for the engine. I guess it is due to additives.
I can buy a mayle water pump and timing kit more than half price for VW t6 2017 plate would you recommend this brand or stick with VW parts thanks David
what is that belt in the sump how often do you change that
What is the replacement interval for timing belt in 2.0tdi T6?
Think 120.000 miles or 4 years, most of them are due time wise
Great video by the way. Where did you get the locking pins, particularly the Crankshaft one from? Regards Stephen
Loads on ebay, ali express etc
The replacment front crank seal sealing lip should be fitted inwards not pushed outwards from pushing it over the crankshaft
A job very well done sir 👍
I can buy a mayle water pump and timing belt kit a lot cheaper should I stick to the genuine VW or go for the mayle ? Thanks David
Great video and well explained
Looks like lots of work ☹ need to do it on my T6 2015 150k its commin soon at 170k
Thx for the great Video 🤘
Thanks fór watching , its possible in 1 day
@@VAGTechnic good to know 👍 i bet the Dealer here in Holland will work a couple of days on it to raise the Bill 💰💰💰💰💰
@@redstar612 gewoon bij een ervaren volkswagen specialist doen.. ik ben er zelf zo’n 4-5 uurtjes mee bezig denk ik
I believe in UK the belt limit is 4 years. In Germany its 10 years or 210k kms.
Hi.I have VW CC 2.0 tdi 2015 r line.What mileage you recommend change timing belt and water pump?Thanks
10 years or 210.000km ofcours do it before that time ... with the waterpump
Great videos, love this tutorial type style. Does the genuine kit come with new tensioner studs? Should these be replaced?
Hi,
Thanks , no stud in this kit , Don’t need to be replaced if there want any previous damage to it
I think I’ll pass doing mine. I’ll have to pay Vw the £750 they quoted me. Does the aux belt and tensioner get done at the same time?
Great video 😊👌🙌🍀
What make is your battery rachet please I’m currently looking for one but don’t want to pay snap on prices
This was China one for 40£ currently have Milwaukee , very good
Nice video! How much are the costs approx. ?
thank you so much for this.
would you change the belt on a low mileage van, 30k, even if it was past the time range?
Yes
Can you give me the number of the oil pump belt?
What's the engine code, please?
but said for this crankshaft seal no need put oil on seal need instal dry or not?
Slides in essier 😁
All ptfe seal shouldnt be lubrificated , allways dry
is this same engine that's in vw golf 2.0 tdi same year? how many miles has it done ? thanks 👌 i was told for vw golf 2017 its 5 years. and vw said they only replace belt and water pump 😮
Are talking about a mk 7 golf ? If yes , the replacement should be done every 210k km or 10 years
@Smithy18 in wich country ? Never heard about a 5y/50k miles interval , on many countries is 10y/210k km . 1.6/2.0 tdi ea288 gen
Nice tutorial you had some slovak guys in the workshop?
Yes
Hey, nice video! I want to ask if you need to replace the bolts with a torque+degree rating like 70NM+90° ? Like the accessory belt tensioner? In the original volkswagen shop manual it says that you need the replace every bolt which has a degree rating ??? I wonder if anyone is doing that because it would be pretty expensive on bigger jobs.... Thanks for help ;)
Yes , you should change any bolt with a angle torque rating , i did this job on my car and replaced every bolt . Was 13 in total (if i recall correctly) . The sump was removed because thats what vw say to do when changing this oil seal
@Smithy18 many bolts on a mk7 are one time use and there are some exceptions too , the transmission shaft flange bolts have only a torque rating and they are one time use
Now wait a second, does it really have a wet belt going to the oil pump?
Yes
how much would that job cost
Great video, thanks
the oil will run out of the sealant, you need to take off the oil pan
Thank you
Mam aj ja T6. kod mototra CAAC 103kW rv 2016, 6qvalt, knešnemu dnu ma 301.000km ide jak šaleny,
Excellent video
Nice clear detailed information
Thanks for watching hopefully it helped you a bit if you planing to this job your self
great video love the set by step tutorial style but you really need a microphone the audio is abysmal
They say that this no longer needs doing every 4 years
this is why i buy cheap simple cars with a timing chain.
i've driven 4 million miles in my life and never had a chain fail on any car or bike.
had a few belts snap. cant buy cars with this expensive shite. here in sweden franchised dealers charge 400 quid an hour. i would sooner scrap the car than pay those crooks
Perfect
thanks for lesson
is that a belt driving the oil pump behind the new crank seal housing? I wonder if that'll last forever?
We have the 2.5 TDI in our t5 which had neither belt nor chain... That's the only real good thing about it
Yes that’s belt , last long … 2.5 have gears :)
@@VAGTechnic It should be replaced with cambelt. Mine broke at 270k km. And if dealeship replaced it at 120k km, then it means that it's lifespan was even shorter.
Clever man …
What type of dog is that?
I want to work withe you before I day
Hawe to centect you bro
tecioner 20nm +45deg
Could this be done by a DIY mechanic with basic skills?
Hi , yes but you need timing tools
I did on my car at home (without a garage) and I will change the clutch/rear oil seal soon.
A nice video. Won"t be buy VAG though. Ridiculous amount of work on them.
Please fix your sound quality. We cant hear you. Music is great
Hello good evening
❤🎉😊
so these need changing every 4 years?
my work friend rekons every 8 years.
who's right then
Too much back lash, with enth loub degree 😮
Yikes lots of work for a belt and water pump.
OMG what a ball ache
why would you buy one of these who puts a drive belt in the sump OMG
spoiled by abysmal sound, could hardly hear him most of the time.
Sorry for the poor quality of sound , just beginners , but finally have a external microphone so hopefully the sound will approve
For a vwt5. 1 that does approx 6k miles a year.... Would you still change the cam belt /tensioner/water pump every 4 years?
O polak