Due to the popularity of this Van Conversion series, I am relocating it to a dedicated Van Conversion Channel! youtube.com/@mattsvan The Matt Estlea 2 Channel was originally for shitposting and used as a proving ground for ideas we have, without the risk of damaging the main channels (Matt Estlea) ranking in UA-cams search algorythms. Ideally we'd like to continue using it for this purpose, but are concious of clogging up the feeds of people who only signed up for van related content. Hence the dedicated channel. It also means I can use the dedicated channel for travel vlogs and other van related content once the conversion is complete which sounds fun. Go subscribe!
1st of all, this video was straight to the point to the point. N0 non-sense, just pure workable info. I dont think you can ever go overboard with rust removal. I probably would have done the same and more. Nice work
okay I've literally jus watched about 3 hours of van rust removal videos and thank gawd I finally ended up on your video. Exactly the info I needed and a great video to watch to boot. You can be as pedantic as you want so long and you make great content like this! Subscribed & Liked
Amazon, do some new smooth sanding discs that go on your grinder that are about an inch thick of some werid material, and they work great. The only problem is that you need alot my mate used 4 on his narrowboat stern and I think they cost 2£ each
Always a good start to the day to see you've posted a new video, I really like your balance between being informative and human! Glad you're in a position to be posting more again...
thank you lord for this video. I'm on exactly same stage of my sprinter van conversion and I was wondering how I should tackle rust problem. My 2012 sprinter is in good condition but it has a lot of scratches inside just like yours. In my car, rust also collects under the seals at the windshield, but also at the sliding doors. Will you also remove rust in these places?
Great video! If I may ask; I see you removed some rust on the sides of the wheel arches. Did you remove and/or replace the seam sealer in these places?
The abrasive discs are meant to be used at a low rotation speed so you need an angle grinder with variable speed adjustment. They degrade much slower if used at the correct speed. They are better than wire brushes (on an angle grinder) because the wire brushes can quickly become to hot and therefore polish the rust but don't really remove it. Your electric drill has a much lower rotation speed, this is why the wire brush worked a lot better on it.
That's rubbish. The abrasive disks will wear out after the removal of a given amount of material. It'll wear out quicker at a higher speed, but will still remove the same amount of material as it would at a slower speed. It'll just take longer to reach the same state!
These twisted wirebraid brushes are available for angle grinders, too. Most aggressive way to get to it, while actual GRINDING afterwards with 150 grit on the 115 or 125 angle grinder would remove the parts of non-loose rust wire wheels do not address.
Nice work! I would definitely use multiple layers of protection. What's the point of painting over rust when it can get worse over the years and lead to a worse problem down the road? A little prevention now will save a lot of headaches later.
Red oxide needs painting. If not, moisture gets to it quite quickly. It only works as protection against rust underneath so you can paint over with a proper metal paint primer ontop and seal and protect everything.
My van was like a colander after taking the ply liner out. (Some muppet had even gone into the diesel tank with 3" screws. I couldn't understand why it didn't start leaking diesel till I took the ply up) Having wire brushed as per I then sealed up the smaller screw holes with very short self tappers dipped in Hammerite.
They do a twist wire brush for the grinder. The one you had used is just a crappy diy sort of one. Pretty sure screwfix do them. Though mind your body with it. High speed wire is always good fun
Wenn der innen so viel Rost hat , wie sieht der nur von unten aus ? Bei meinen war nur eine kleine Kante vom Rost zu sehen , aber als der Unterschutz ab war 🙈 Unterwandert vom Rost auch die Pfalze am den Radkästen 🙈 Grüße Wolfram
Thanks for not showing your results and not mentioning that this method doesn't work for the exterior because the hammarite paint comes out in streaks from a paint brush. This is the "I don't care what the end result will look like because I'm covering it over with insulation" method.
norton blaze rapid strip --- its a way to go ...last 10+ times longer than this "abrasive disc thing" from 1:02 and works like 5x faster anywhere else u need abrasive materials ,cutting discs etc--- go with 3M Cubitron II or Norton Blaze --- they last 10+ longer than any other brand on the market and cut / grind etc 2x faster tested myself as a someone that really HATE to use abrasive materials (i'm working with composites like carbon fibre etc and metal😅 and daaamn ... 1 piece of cubitron XTRACT for orbital sander last 15x longer than festool where its at least 3x faster) Blaze is like 70% of the 3M cubitron II speed and lifetime....but have way stronger and more elastic glue that last longer when u push it on small parts (nails , screws etc) where cubitron last longer and cuts /grind faster but easily get destroyed when u push it to hard but cost less only one issue with blaze is that it's hard to find and it can be more expensive
@@abytc2023 angle grinder But with speed controll , you cant use it at max speed or it will get destroyed easly on corners etc if you still learning how to use it (if we talking about norton blaze rapid strip /blend or 3m scotch brite) But You can get 3m scotch brite for drill that should work better for begginers Or you can find abrasive brush that should work even better in hard to reach places etc but they super expensive
I can give you a reason you have the rust in the first place......All cars/trucks Get wet outside and inside ...So why in areas And not in others.....Its not what the water is ...Its whats in the water ..It carries Dirt that builds up And forms ...Mud That mud has PH's into Acids that soften the paint And lay under it ......Moldings floors Nice areas out of the view of the sun and take x4 amounts of time to dry out ...Wash your van in the crack and trim 1 time a year check your floors under the carpet if you see signs of rust at other areas ....Clean the needles and leaves out of your wiper area
There is a white male singer with a cane and wears a black suit & wears white makeup sings this song , he has women dances but i can't remember his name , please let me know
hi I thought the same about using an epoxy primer after the grinder. Do you think if using the epoxy you could go straight to hammerite or do you think the kurust and red oxide is still necessary?
Due to the popularity of this Van Conversion series, I am relocating it to a dedicated Van Conversion Channel! youtube.com/@mattsvan
The Matt Estlea 2 Channel was originally for shitposting and used as a proving ground for ideas we have, without the risk of damaging the main channels (Matt Estlea) ranking in UA-cams search algorythms. Ideally we'd like to continue using it for this purpose, but are concious of clogging up the feeds of people who only signed up for van related content. Hence the dedicated channel.
It also means I can use the dedicated channel for travel vlogs and other van related content once the conversion is complete which sounds fun. Go subscribe!
1st of all, this video was straight to the point to the point. N0 non-sense, just pure workable info.
I dont think you can ever go overboard with rust removal. I probably would have done the same and more. Nice work
I tried this method with the twisted wire brush, and it works amazingly
okay I've literally jus watched about 3 hours of van rust removal videos and thank gawd I finally ended up on your video. Exactly the info I needed and a great video to watch to boot. You can be as pedantic as you want so long and you make great content like this! Subscribed & Liked
I like that your video isn’t filled with a bunch of bs music video crap like so many with van videos. Thank you kindly.
I've used one of those twisted wire cups on an angle grinder for removing rust and it worked a charm
Amazon, do some new smooth sanding discs that go on your grinder that are about an inch thick of some werid material, and they work great. The only problem is that you need alot my mate used 4 on his narrowboat stern and I think they cost 2£ each
Always a good start to the day to see you've posted a new video, I really like your balance between being informative and human! Glad you're in a position to be posting more again...
I really like these small episodes
Just like to thank you for these vids these will really help me in my mission. looking forward to your finished van. good luck
One important remark: Rust stabilizer work only on rust area. If the rust has been mechanically removed from the area, rust stabilizer has no purpose.
Yep, you did it correctly 👍🏻
Excellent
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
When you do something, you do it perfectly.
thank you lord for this video. I'm on exactly same stage of my sprinter van conversion and I was wondering how I should tackle rust problem. My 2012 sprinter is in good condition but it has a lot of scratches inside just like yours. In my car, rust also collects under the seals at the windshield, but also at the sliding doors. Will you also remove rust in these places?
Great video! If I may ask; I see you removed some rust on the sides of the wheel arches. Did you remove and/or replace the seam sealer in these places?
The abrasive discs are meant to be used at a low rotation speed so you need an angle grinder with variable speed adjustment. They degrade much slower if used at the correct speed. They are better than wire brushes (on an angle grinder) because the wire brushes can quickly become to hot and therefore polish the rust but don't really remove it. Your electric drill has a much lower rotation speed, this is why the wire brush worked a lot better on it.
That's rubbish. The abrasive disks will wear out after the removal of a given amount of material. It'll wear out quicker at a higher speed, but will still remove the same amount of material as it would at a slower speed. It'll just take longer to reach the same state!
These twisted wirebraid brushes are available for angle grinders, too. Most aggressive way to get to it, while actual GRINDING afterwards with 150 grit on the 115 or 125 angle grinder would remove the parts of non-loose rust wire wheels do not address.
Overkill's underated especially when it comes to rust 😉
great video, thank you... can you follow the same procedure with the rust thats outside the van ?
Awesome video. How’s the rust repairs holding up never later?
Nice work! I would definitely use multiple layers of protection. What's the point of painting over rust when it can get worse over the years and lead to a worse problem down the road? A little prevention now will save a lot of headaches later.
Red oxide needs painting. If not, moisture gets to it quite quickly. It only works as protection against rust underneath so you can paint over with a proper metal paint primer ontop and seal and protect everything.
The rust stabilizer is probably phosphoric acid based. That turns iron oxide to iron phosphate which won't spread.
I think you are right. Heisenburg stuff - it turns the rust into something else👍
Can you use this same technique to remove rust from the external body of the van ?
My van was like a colander after taking the ply liner out. (Some muppet had even gone into the diesel tank with 3" screws. I couldn't understand why it didn't start leaking diesel till I took the ply up) Having wire brushed as per I then sealed up the smaller screw holes with very short self tappers dipped in Hammerite.
They do a twist wire brush for the grinder. The one you had used is just a crappy diy sort of one. Pretty sure screwfix do them. Though mind your body with it. High speed wire is always good fun
Getting a 2010 Mitsu Outlander in a couple weeks. Can not wait to convert into a stealth camper type, hit the roads, no destination.
wheres the video of sealing the exterior of the van?? , maybe i'm blind but can't find it
Wenn der innen so viel Rost hat , wie sieht der nur von unten aus ?
Bei meinen war nur eine kleine Kante vom Rost zu sehen , aber als der Unterschutz ab war 🙈
Unterwandert vom Rost auch die Pfalze am den Radkästen 🙈
Grüße Wolfram
Which Hammerite Paint do you use the Ultima?
Bro, you sound exactly like jackfrags
Mercedes vans are notorious for rust. What was the main factor that made you decide to buy a Mercedes?
Neat
👍🏻
sacrificial anode zinc plate
Thanks for not showing your results and not mentioning that this method doesn't work for the exterior because the hammarite paint comes out in streaks from a paint brush.
This is the "I don't care what the end result will look like because I'm covering it over with insulation" method.
norton blaze rapid strip --- its a way to go ...last 10+ times longer than this "abrasive disc thing" from 1:02 and works like 5x faster
anywhere else u need abrasive materials ,cutting discs etc--- go with 3M Cubitron II or Norton Blaze --- they last 10+ longer than any other brand on the market and cut / grind etc 2x faster
tested myself as a someone that really HATE to use abrasive materials (i'm working with composites like carbon fibre etc and metal😅 and daaamn ... 1 piece of cubitron XTRACT for orbital sander last 15x longer than festool where its at least 3x faster)
Blaze is like 70% of the 3M cubitron II speed and lifetime....but have way stronger and more elastic glue that last longer when u push it on small parts (nails , screws etc)
where cubitron last longer and cuts /grind faster but easily get destroyed when u push it to hard but cost less
only one issue with blaze is that it's hard to find and it can be more expensive
What tool should be used-a drill, an angle grinder, etc? thx.
@@abytc2023 angle grinder
But with speed controll , you cant use it at max speed or it will get destroyed easly on corners etc if you still learning how to use it (if we talking about norton blaze rapid strip /blend or 3m scotch brite)
But
You can get 3m scotch brite for drill that should work better for begginers
Or you can find abrasive brush that should work even better in hard to reach places etc but they super expensive
the volts has nothing to do with power of a tool , power has to do with amps -
Fertan
Combi colour is better
I can give you a reason you have the rust in the first place......All cars/trucks Get wet outside and inside ...So why in areas And not in others.....Its not what the water is ...Its whats in the water ..It carries Dirt that builds up And forms ...Mud That mud has PH's into Acids that soften the paint And lay under it ......Moldings floors Nice areas out of the view of the sun and take x4 amounts of time to dry out ...Wash your van in the crack and trim 1 time a year check your floors under the carpet if you see signs of rust at other areas ....Clean the needles and leaves out of your wiper area
There is a white male singer with a cane and wears a black suit & wears white makeup sings this song , he has women dances but i can't remember his name , please let me know
you should use acid in first step, and after grinder, and after epoxy primer.
hi I thought the same about using an epoxy primer after the grinder. Do you think if using the epoxy you could go straight to hammerite or do you think the kurust and red oxide is still necessary?