5 Best Ways To Remove Rust From Your Classic Car
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- Опубліковано 31 тра 2024
- Car rust removal is never fun which is why you need 5 ways to tackle it. Chemicals (Evaporust), Electrolysis, wire wheels & strip it discs, media blast, and rust converters all have their own PRO's & Cons. I discuss all 5 of these methods while I restore this part for my own Porsche project.
Your classic car deserves the best. #rust #rustremoval
Products needed:
Evaporust - amzn.to/37VuZWS
Washing Soda - amzn.to/3n8jVvV
Wire Cup Brush - amzn.to/39XPgxR
Wire Wheel for drill - amzn.to/3qM1f7p
Makita Sander - amzn.to/375tlmr
Strip it Disc - rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53...
Spot Blaster - amzn.to/39YOhxb
Metal Conditioner - Check with your paint supplier - It's a fancy Ospho Acid.
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00:00 Welcome to Ahh Garage Time
00:18 De-rust Porsche Engine Tin
01:13 Evaporust Rust Remover for small car parts
02:03 Evaporust PRO's and CON's
02:22 Electrolysis for Rust Removal with washing soda
03:05 Use car battery and charger for electrolysis bath
03:23 Cathode goes to negative battery terminal
03:52 Measure electrolysis current flow
04:06 Black residue present from Electrolysis
04:23 Wire cup brush on angle grinder to remove rust & black residue
04:43 Mechanical Rust Removal - Wire wheel and strip it disc
04:56 Strip it disc on Makita sander
05:25 Wire wheel to clean Porsche 912 engine tin
06:44 Wire wheel on non-electrolysis side (not as good)
07:54 Strip it disc in action - woven abrasive disc
08:45 Metal Conditioner -5717S or rust converter
09:40 Metal conditioner applied with steel wool
11:46 Media blasting - demo small spot blaster
14:02 Checking spot blasted area with metal conditioner
15:18 Hammer and dolly bent flanges to straighten
15:36 TIG weld crack closed
16:03 Media blast PRO's and CON's
17:04 Evaporust results after 24 hours
18:35 POR-15 and Rust Converters PRO's and CON's
19:39 Wire wheel on drill motor to clean engine tin
20:01 Paint part with semi-glass black rustoleum
Below is a table of contents of past episodes 1-35. Click the link below for the rest
www.ahhgaragetime.com/TOC
Intro
Stripped Shell Introduction
• Porsche 911 Longhood C...
1
Drivers Fender Backdate, Unfold short hood edge, Make Signal Box Parts From Flat Sheet
• Backdating My Porsche ...
2
Drivers Fender Signal Box, Shape Bottom Portion w/ Bead Roller
• Porsche 911 Metal Fabr...
3
Drivers Fender Side Patch Panel Hammerform, TIG Weld Signal Housing
• CNC Machined Hammerfor...
4
Drivers Fender TIG Weld Side Patch Panel, Add signal housing triangle piece
• TIG Welding Sheetmetal...
5
Passenger Side Fender Backdate, Additional Content From Driver's Side
• Modify Your Short Hood...
6
Shorthood to Longhood Conversion, Form Outer Skin Edges And Weld On
• Project Porsche 911, L...
7
E Wheel and Form Longhood Inner Skin w/ Handormed Strength Rib
• English Wheel Metalsha...
8
TIG Weld Outer and Inner Longhood Extension
• Porsche 911 Restoratio...
9
Longhood Front Seal Custom Bracket
• Porsche 911 Carrera RS...
10
Rear Backdate, Remove Rear Impact Bumper and Valence
• Porsche 911 RS Tribute...
11
Lead Rear Valence Corners, Rear Latch Panel Backdate
• Porsche 911 Outlaw Bui...
12
Hybrid Steel License Plate panel & Fiberglass Rear Bumper, Custom Panel Brackets
• Porsche 911 Build - Hy...
13
Custom Aluminum Rear Bumperettes, Solidworks Design, Cut on CNC machine, Rear Flare Trial Fit
• Old Porsche 911 Resto ...
14
Form and TIG Weld Custom Rear Aluminum Bumperettes, Rear Bumper Complete
• Old Porsche 911 Resto ...
15
SC to RS Flare Comparison, Photoshop & Sheetmetal Conversion to RS
• How to Spot a SC Fende...
16
Tack Weld Passenger Side RS Rear Flare, Remove Undercoat, Align Flare
• How to Butt Weld a Ste...
17
Weld Passenger Side Flare, TIG VS MIG, Planishing, Weld Distortion, TIG Arc shots
• Porsche 911 Build - We...
18
Align Body Panels, Hood gaps, Adjust tub with dumbell, Repair Rocker, gap tool, Windshield fit check
• How to Align Body Pane...
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No one likes rust. What's your favorite method? DIY or send it out?
Hey Tom , the only thing I think you left out is MURIATIC ACID , I love it for cleaning steel oil pans and tanks . From 20 min to 6 hours of soaking .
DIY for me
Wet blasting. Fast and no heat.
@@iancarpenter2334 but how much expensive is it? And how it works?
@@ricardotorres9688 In the usa muriatic acid is about $30 gallon, it is best known for cleaning swimming pools , home depot , lowes
I’m quite late, but I’m trying to learn a lot about classic cars, how to fix them up, and how to maintain them. This video was very helpful. Thank you! ❤️
Welcome aboard!
Came here to learn to remove rust spots on my car and I came out a new man. Lol. Rust removal 101. Thank you for this very detailed rust knowledge filled video. Wow.
Great to hear. Keep that rust at bay!
Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience. I've also had good success with Evap-o-rust on small submersible parts. There's one thing to consider with this battle against rust though. You need to determine how long you want your repair to last; a lifetime or for as long as you are going to use the vehicle. It's a choice that one has to make as to the level of restoration you desire. Some prefer perfection, others wish to enjoy the driving experience. Wishing you success in your future projects.
Thanks for this info. Good very video. One suggestion for those pits is to use Evaporust jelly. Difficult to work with but you can brush it in.
I’ve also had success using Evaporust soaked in paper towels and covered with cellophane. It prevents evaporation. I used this method on my planer and jointer tables that were rusty from sitting for 10 years. You can also spot brush Evaporust into the pits and cover with cellophane.
Hand Tool Rescue’s favorite rust remover!
I've done a ton of experimenting with various methods. Parts that can be taken off and soaked are easy. I bought an entire garbage bin, filled it with hydrochloric acid mixed with water, and then another bin with water and baking soda. I first take off all the surface rust as much as possible with a wire wheel to make the process smoother, then soak it in the acid for a day, then right away over to the bin with the baking soda for 10 or so minutes, dry it with a blow torch and finally brush on a solution of phosphoric acid to remove any surface rust. I would dip it in phosphoric acid straight away but I can't get hold of any larger quantities without having to order it online. Wire wheeling off all the rust for parts that are on the car is much more difficult, but you need a good wire wheel with very solid and rough strains that doesn't fold and can cut into the hard crusty rust. Flap discs work in some areas but not really good on sheet metal since it can burn through. You need something that is hard enough to cut into the rust but soft enough to follow the shape
Thanks and this all sounds similar to my own experiences. My personal preference is electrolysis bath over an acid bath.
Not trying to start a war because everyone's different. Here's my reasons for electrolysis:
Electrolysis is cheaper than acid and it doesn't need to be neutralized. The black film left over actually prevents flash rust to some degree.
Only one tub and about a cup of washing soda. The anodes are consumable, but cheap sheet metal scraps.
Happy Birthday Tom! great content as always. keep up the good work!
Thanks! It was a cheesecake kind of night with the fam.
Tom- as I understand it from their literature, EvapoRust is a chelating agent that is formulated to attach to iron oxide.
You said you don't have the equipment but you sure do get the job done, thanks for sharing and God Bless you
When there is a will there's a way. In this video I tried to show many options, but I have my go-to favorites.
I stripped the majority of my Model A body panels with Molasses. I didn’t believe it when I read about it, but for $25 worth of feed grade molasses and a big stainless steel tub, I soaked the parts for a couple days, and it was amazing how it removed the rust. Other than the smell, it worked amazing!
Wow, first time I heard of this one. Awesome!
@@GarageTimeAutoResto I, too, have been using molasses for about 12 or 13 years. If you're not on a tight time sked (there's no flight schedule on my office wall these days) molasses is the best for getting ALL of the rust out, in my experience. Good to know I'm not the only one using it.
@@aviatorblc wow, sound great. can you describe the procedure a bit more? thnx
@@izoyt , the suggested ratio of molasses to water is 1 part molasses, 9 parts water. I've always mixed mine a little stronger than that because I assumed that would hurry the process. Maybe, maybe not. First time I tried it, I had put a couple of sticks of black pipe outside behind the building where they lay for a couple of years. Black pipe rusts up like nobody's business, so I sliced a couple of 1" rings off one end (this was 2-1/2" pipe), put it in a coffee tub with about a 5 to 1 mix (water to molasses), and let it soak for a couple of weeks, perhaps a bit longer. When I pulled them out and rinsed them off, they were both this lovely, gray bare metal, even where there had been a bit of pitting. Can't knock success, imo. Hope it works for you.
Other channels have suggested that the problem with sand-blasting is that there's always sand left around the part, which inevitably shows up on the paint coat, no matter how thoroughly you attempt to remove it. Using dry ice as the material doesn't present that problem, but obviously would be tricky for DIY.
Sand is messy for sure and cleanliness really matters. However if pitted metal shows through the paint later this can be caused by the wildly different paint thickness. Paint or filler will shrink differently and proportional robots thickness. So iv the pitted surface is uneven then that might be the problem too.
dry ice don´t remove rust
I really appreciate the time and effort you put into this video. Im sure the process alone is super time consuming but to video and edit the whole thing is amazing. I also really enjoy that you are showing real world rust removal for the average DIY guy and not some unrealistic high dollar setup that most perople wont have. Solid work man!
Thanks Kip, I'm just a regular car guy.
I favor electrolysis. I usually leave it in longer and remove the residue with a wire brush then due electrolysis on it again then rust convert it. Puddy the ruff surfaces primer and paint. Seems to work well for me. Great channel!.
Thanks, this is good advice. I have experimented with putting things back in the electrolysis bath after brushing and it keep getting better. I've also left things in the bath overnight and it does keep working.
On the part in this video, I didn't use any filler on the pits, but probably should have. They are still visible in the paint.
Electrolysis looks very nice, like to try out myself. Thanks a lot
Great video! Just FYI I believe POR15 is an encapsulator not a converter. Rust Bullet is another version of an encapsulator. They try to deny water/air to the metal / rust. Its a good idea for pits that you may not have fully cleaned. My favorite place to use it is on interior floor pans that have pitting. I wouldn't try it under exterior paint either!
Thank you! I'm not a fan of por-15. It over-hardens and cracks with time. Then moisture gets underneath it.
Great video Tom. Thanks much.
Nice work, Tom. Informative as usual. Electrolysis is obviously the way to go for removable parts.
Agree. Faster and cheaper than Evaporust.
I'm late to the party. I have had great results with electrolysis buy you have to remember it will only remove rust between the anode and cathode area. If the part has a complex shape it can be difficult to use. Often moving everything around to get good coverage.
Hi Tom, I've been following you since the beginning of your 911 project. I love it. Nice job on the engine tin. Evoporust has jell version that you can apply with a brush for large pieces. I've tried it and it works great. Just rinse with water when done. By the way, over here in Massachusetts that's not rust. That's "MINT" condition.
Cool, I've heard of that. Or people who cover with towels and stuff. Good to know that works! Thanks for watching!
Great video Tom. That had to take a bit to stitch together. Good information! Never tried electrolysis. Always used wire wheels, and for the tough to reach stuff, converter. 👍👍
Thanks, it did take a few days to film and edit this one. Was supposed to be short, but they never are, ha ha.
Great video Tom, showing all the methods of rust removing it all depends on how much money and how big of a budget you have for the equipment you need. I had access to a sandblasting cabinet and a big air compressor at one time and that worked excellent for small parts. now here at home in the garage working on my 911 I don’t have a sandblasting cabinet and I don’t have an air compressor yet I’ve been using evaporate rust on the small parts with a wire wheel. And I purchased some epoxy primer paint and borrowed a friends air compressor to spray paint my small parts with the Epoxy primer which I believe is the best.
Glad you are back at it Marion! Epoxy primer IS the best!
I like that little spot blaster, I need one of those, combine with a rust treatment and etch or epoxy prime
I like it too and it makes total sense to combine a few methods where needed.👍
Vinegar works well, if you're patient - I typically dunk a piece in a sealed bucket for a week or two. Hard to beat the price. A product called "DR X" works very well too if you're not into waiting for results. Cringey marketing aside, it really works, but it's costly to get where I am.
Thanks good tips. Haven't heard of Dr X yet.
Pretty good tutorial/comparison for hobbyists.
I use por15 metal ready, and then marine clean after I have prepared the bare metal , ideal before 2k epoxy primer to seal it off.
That cleaner is good stuff from POR-15. Their paints suck though.
Good video, best part was being able to see how all five techniques worked on the same piece.
Thanks, and this piece is now on my driving car! No issues yet😄
The black that the converter goes on the metal is ferric phosphate and is an inert layer that won't react, it's not rust at that stage once it goes black.
However it only reacts within a few microns so if you don't clean most of the rust off it will not penetrate deep and the rust will return. So basically use multiple methods, start with electrolysis, then wire wheel, clean the metal then use a converter which will seal any missed rust and react with it, wipe clean with water, dry then prepsol and finally etch primer.
Agree 100%. This is what I do except epoxy primer versus etch primer.
On this part, I didn't primer because it's an engine part, but I prefer epoxy.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto epoxy is perfect too. You run a great Chanel, hats off
agree, had good luck this way
Good. Sand blasting could be the best way to erase the rust. Nevertheless, in France, we have something like evaporust we can find in Restom brand, and metal brush on drilling machin, and sand discs. But after the metal is clean, I put quickly PHO from Restom, à phosphate acid liquide, with a piece of cloth to prevent the metal from the rust, that create an oxyde that protects the steel, and also Increase the grip of the paint. I use epoxy primer on thin metal sheet and black epoxy for other parts directly over the treated steel surfaces. Nevertheless, removing the rust always needs tools, lot of time and self-sacrifice. Californian weather is also better to avoid that the rust comes back, than the weather in Paris, that is also truth!
California cars are lucky to last longer if they are well taken of. It seems every epoxy primer manufacturer recommends something a little different. The manufacturer that I used explicitly states not to prime over the phosphate coating. Others I've heard it's ok, but probably doesn't increase adhesion. You probably have better materials in France than we do in California. Thanks for sharing your experience from the other the other side of the pond!
@@GarageTimeAutoResto hi Tom, you are totally right, epoxy paint doesn't need a primer paint, but here is a clear liquid (as fluid as water!) not a paint primer. I put on a cloth directly (like I put acetone for example) and I spread it out the clean steel. I treated some sand blasted parts (from my Simca 1000) with this liquid, and stocked them in my father's barn in normandy for about 8 or 10 years without any kind of paint, and the parts were still clean after all that time, like the first day! Amazing. Good bye to your family and protect yourself well.
Thanks I learned something
Great video Tom. I agree with your methods. Great info. I'm also not a fan of the por15. For the small stuff, you just can beat a blast cabinet.
Hey Russ! I do like blasting for painted parts, but I don't like it for aluminum parts or things that get plated. It changes the appearance too much. Or if the sand is too fine then it doesn't get the rust.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Glass beads on aluminum. Makes it look like new.
Thanks for the info i bought an 85 sura and has minor rust was looking for the best way to remove it before paint
Cool, best of luck! Are strip it discs available bin your area?
Thank you for this helpful information. May you hit UA-cam stardom and be rich beyond your wildest dreams.
You're welcome 😄 Thanks for the kind words.
Hi Tom, great video, Hopefully this one goes viral! I wanted to let you know that I have been using a product from Eastwood called Fast Etch. I think it is similar to metal conditioner but I have not verified. What I like about Fast Etch is that it seems to put a coating on the metal and actually prevents rust from forming. I have been using Fast Etch as my last step before primer. Before I'm ready to primer an area, and I have all visible rust gone I apply the Fast Etch kind of like my last line of defense hopefully taking care of minute surface rust. I work it in with a maroon scotchbrite pad and then I wipe it all off with a towel. And do a final clean with Acetone. Then I do the primer. Maybe I should be using the wax and grease remover instead of the acetone? Or after I use Acetone? Anyway, you may want to evaluate the fast etch if you need to buy anymore metal conditioner.
Sounds like a very similar product. Re-wetting and wiping it off is a good call before paint. SPI says not to prime over the white residue. Not sure if you are using SPI also?
Acetone should work well. SPI recommend their w&g cleaner... no surprise.
Tom, I am surprised you have not 'invested' in a small benchtop blasting cabinet by now and with that huge compressor you have. I have one loaded with medium size glass beads and it is a life saver for all smaller parts that need cleaning, the glass bead don't attack the metal and leave a nice peened surface. The glass bead seems to last a while if you clean the parts before blasting and the cabinets are usually in the 150-200$ range. You would not have fit the back tin (which you probably know but is specific to a 1968 912 - brackets on left with the holes are for the smog pump), but would have worked for many other parts.
I have access to one at the community workshop that I belong to. That's why I don't have one at home I actually sold it! I use the workshop one occasionally.
Dustless blasting will have that part looking new and cost less than those chemicals and labor effort
Good save on that piece😀
Thanks, I've see worse
I noticed you mentioned Vapor honing. I made one out of a sump pump and various parts. A lot of videos on it but it took a lot of guess work. I’m going to buy a 356 project soon and I feel that it’s a must to use it on aluminum like that transmission project you have. It makes the aluminum look like new without harming it. I can imagine what it can do on a engine case. I have made carburetors look like new with almost no effort. It was worth building it and I know you can build one. I live close by in Diamond bar would like to show you what I did if you are interested. Thanks, Andre Tardif
Cool, I'd love to see you vapor honing setup sometime.
I do have concerns about changing the texture though. It's only original once.
I felt the same about hurting the parts. The texture of a part and lettering of it. If you use the finest glass media it doesn’t. It has a cleaning effect. Removing oxidation on aluminum. I don’t like acid products like wheel cleaner because the outcome isn’t always the same and can be blotchy and uneven. It works and I have done it before. The vapor blasting doesn’t hurt good plastic or rubber. The media is suspended in the water and the water is the bearer between the media and the part. I have thrown a couple of scoops of baking soda in the mixture and not sure if it help but what the heck baking soda does clean things.. I’m shocked on how well it works. Vapor blasting has been around for a long time and has been used in aircraft in WW2 to clean delicate parts. If you like I can do a small part for you to see and show you how I built it. If I can build it so can you
Regards
Andre 951-533-1876
Very cool, I'll call you this weekend
Hi Tom - can you use the electrolysis method for parts with some yellow chromate plating still remaining or will it strip the plating also?
I don't think it will remove the plating, but I haven't tried it myself. I know it doesn't remove paint.
I think electrolysis will serve my needs best. No worry with disposal of noxious chemicals. Thanks for the demonstration video.
*_TRUST !!_*
Cool, it's pretty safe. Be careful that hydrogen doesn't accumulate.
I have found a 30L sonic cleaner does a great job as well, just have to make sure to not let flash rust once its out of the tank.
What solution do you put in your ultrasonic cleaner to derust?
@@GarageTimeAutoResto it works with anything, Ive used water with a small amount of dawn dish soap, you just have to stop flash rust afterward and dry it quickly, but it works quite well.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto I haven’t tried it yet but i imagine a mix with vinegar would work even better
Thanks for the video, Tom. You had a nice weld on that sheetmetal, what kind of welder is that?
Thanks,. I'm a big fan of TIG welding for thin sheet metal. Check out Miller diversion 180
This was great! Is that a polycarbonate wheel used after the wire wheel vs electrolysis competition?
Not sure how they are made, but they are like a stiff coral material. Called strip it discs. I'm pretty sure I linked to the ebay guy that I buy mine from. Hard to find in large sizes.
Great content and tips Tom!
See you next month?
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Absolutely, I will be able to update you on everything this weekend and workout some details!
Have you tried naval jelly? It’s my favorite method but not great for huge parts.
Yes Ive tried Naval jelly and it does work well. The important thing with naval Jelly is to make sure it's neutralized before paint or it can bite you back in a few years.
Great video Tom,
What type-grade of sand you use?
Thanks
Thanks Pedro,. I use genuine Huntington Beach sand. It's not recommended for blasting, but I strain it through a perforated sheet metal. Wear a respirator if you do a lot because it's not good for your lungs.
Otherwise, I'd goto harbor freight and get their corse sand.
I use to use a good glass Bead machine.
Tom. On the pits, I use a fordom or dremmel and a fine carbide burr to brighten each pit. Also I found carbide dentist drills on eBay for a couple bucks for 5-10 to the box. They work super but it takes a lot time. On old 356's after we get the paint off, I use a Aspho Formic acid to highlight the pits, then grind them off. Hoods and fenders have allot of old rock chips they will have fine rust pits. It's just as good as a spot blaster and much less clean up.
Nice job on the tins.
Thanks John. Good tips, but now my teeth hurt, ha ha. We are in alignment about using acids to spot rust. Same chemical different name.
hai there... thanks for the time and upload.. nice info.. How do you remove old car paint with rust before pouring new car paint? any suggestion?
I made a video about stripping paint too.
ua-cam.com/video/SJsG0YWmsZk/v-deo.html
@@GarageTimeAutoResto thank you soo much.. already like and sub Rice to your channel👍👍👍
Welcome here😎
What about a piece that you aren't going to repaint and you want to just slow the rust spread? My car has some patina and planning to leave it that way but have noticed some rust bubbles at the bottom of the door. If I remove the door card, should I treat it with a particular product to slow the process?
You can spray cavity wax on the doors interior. If you have bubbles through the paint, then significant damage has already begun. You are most likely looking at cutting out and replacing metal in your future.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Thank you! I'll check that out. Yeah, I'm going to avoid proper repair for as long as possible because given the originality of the car, if I fix one spot I'm going to end up having to do the entire thing or else it'll look weird to have just one repainted section.
Good choice. Enjoy the car now before you go and fix all the patina.
That is what I did with my 356. Owned it for more than 25 years now. I developed a bond and now will never sell it.
I'd like to know more about the electrolysis . What's the anode and cathode made of surface area etc. Thanks. Good video!
It is mostly experimental, electrolysis is very forgiving regarding the setup. The cathode is the part you want to clean, the anode can be pretty much anything conductive, maybe with the exception of stainless steel, doesn't matter much as it'll corrode anyway sooner or later. The bigger the surface area and the more soda you have in the water the faster it will work and the amperage it will draw, depends how big you power supply is...
I agree with everything Sergio said. I try to limit the current to 3A by reducing the anode area or reducing the soda concentration.
The anodes are consumable and get gunked up, so don't spend time making nice ones. I used two, but one will work if rotate the part. No chromium on the anodes as it can be toxic.
Don't let the part touch the anodes.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Ok but what is the anode made of? Thanks
Mild steel sheet metal
Dont know if its a problem in these parts but eletrolisys can give hydrogen embrittlement, that can make parts crack and bend more easily .. maybe something to watch out for in cars? =)
Embrittlement is more of a problem in high strength alloys. Mild sheet metal won't be affected much.
@@GarageTimeAutoRestoAh ok =) well then its all good =) been warned alot on the net about that when it comes to electrolisys =) but great if its not a problem with mild steel =)
DuPont Metal prep probably contains tannin - its reaction products with rust are black. I don't think it can do much to the rust because it is such a weak acid.
I like citric acid for rust removal because it is cheap, fairly safe to use and stronger than vinegar. And most of all it does not stink.
Thanks for sharing. I believe the dupont uses Ospho acid, but not sure how strong. Dupont adds chemicals to prevent flash rust and ensure paint adhesion.
When you use straight acid, you must make sure it's neutralized properly or it may affect the paint years later.
That is why I recommended a product that is engineered to work with paint. Oddly enough they recommend rinsing it off with water.
Muriatic acid or swimming pool acid is also cheap and strong, but boy that metal will rust again in a hurry.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Yes it is very important to neutralize the acid because hydrogen bubbles will form under the pain and eventually crack it. I usually put the parts in a container with washing soda for a day, then rinse them off and blow them dry with compressed air. Citric acid does not attack iron as much as muriatic acid - it usually takes some days until rust showes up again. Sandblasted surfaces are much worse.
Great, thanks for sharing process. Seems like a good one!
If you can find it a product called Ospo Will works wonders for killing rust and preventing its returning. I learned of this when I hung around the piers during shrinking season in Miss. these guys used it . I have been using it on my car resto projects for 30t years . I have one car I started on stored in an shed , metal was completely cleaned then ospo was applied there is no rust after all these years, one of these years I plan to paint that car !
Awesome, the metal conditioner I used has the same primary ingredient osphoric acid plus some zinc phosphate to prevent flash rust. I think ospho is a brand which is much less expensive than the dupont version. Both are great.
Where do you find Ospo?
@@aviatorblc sometimes they will ship it to you but the hazmat charge makes it way expensive. I get it at mfa farm supply, tractor supply may have it . Been using it for years . Read the directions , a gallon goes am l o n g way , use it in a spray bottle ,do not get on concrete
@@thedude4632 good info. Thanks a million.
CHEERS
Thanks for this. Rust converter is a chemical process that transforms the ferrous oxide into another chemical. SO you don't have remove the black residue. That inert black stuff is the sign that you have completed the mission. Maybe a DIY wooden frame during mechanical processes would be an assurance against warping risk,
The problem with leaving the ferrous oxide is that most often there is rust underneath it. That is why I prefer to keep going until nothing turns black.
Tow questions.
1. What kind of welding you used on this video
2. What classic car do you have in your garage XD looks like a big block
faz um mingau de amido de milho com vinagre e duas colheres de óleo cozinha que da certo..
Tom, You like doing this so much, do you want to come over? I have some work for you to do. LOL ;)
Maybe, I'm running out of rusty parts! What will I do?
@@GarageTimeAutoResto lol
I would have thought you would use Rust911.
I like the name😄
OK NO MAGIC BUT THANKS ANYWAY:
DryIce blast.
$$$$
Black iron oxide is not rust. It is similar to gun bluing and the same as is found on machine grade hardware. It is chemically bonded to the steel and forms a protective coating. Just scrub it clean.
True, but can you paint over it with the same adhesion?
por15 is garbage, yes
Well you could paint a trash can with it
Massive fin, yes por-15 is garbage for those who do not know how to use it.
@@Dixler683 lol if i wanted to use something like this i use rust bullet, real pros dont use por 15 sh*t only backyard hillbillies... I also like the wurth products..
@@massivefins2597 thanks for you input. Por-15 is great if you follow all the directions. Rust bullet is a superior product and more forgiving. I have been doing this professionally since the late 70’s and specialize in 50’s style fin cars. Seems like you have a fin up your ass. PS. The chemicals in por-15 are the same as in rust bullet. A former employee for por left and started his own company to produce a better product and he succeeded. What do you have against hillbillies?
Its Poor-15
Why bother with mechanics, Just use a sand blaster with glass beads as ur media.
I love glass media blasting, but it's messy and gets inside hidden cavities. This sand holds water and then bam more rust.
The selective lunchroom perinatally need because mist intraorally found before a second leopard. sour, roasted diving
Not good.
What's not good