To add info and maybe help someone. On my ‘19 turbo 4 seater, you had to remove that heat shield and loosen the 10mm bolt that holds the coolant lines. Once you’ve separated the center it all slides out nicely. The rear came out the rear and the front come out the bottom. I did pull the clutch cover but don’t know if it was necessary. Only plastic that needed removed was the console in the back seat. I also used a 15mm wrench to loosen the drinker side carrier bolt from the bottom.
As long as the mounting housing lines up with the bearing, it doesn’t matter which way bearing is installed. There’s a grease ring on bearing and housing
Do the u joints have a grease zerk, have you guys had any feed back to how long these bearing carriers are lasting, my stock (flex bearing) or bearing carrier just went out with only 1100 miles
Good work. another tidbit instead of removing the pin from the front shaft, you can remove the diff mounting bolts and move it forward just an inch and the front prop shaft comes right out. No banging and Punch work
Really depends on how much you ride the machine and the conditions you ride in. If you ride in a lot of mud/water that comes in contact with the u-joints you'll want to grease more frequently. We recommend anytime doing your general maintenance like checking air filter, ball joints, ect go ahead and throw a couple pumps of grease at them.
I'm confused in this video I thought both opposite ends supposed to be clocked at 90 the one at the transmission would be up and down and the one at the very front at the differential would be up and down that's how the stock setup is
So what do I do when my bearing is stuck half way on because my 400 dollar driveshaft didn’t come with a tool not everyone has pipe laying around lmao especially when retaining liquid is setting up
@@StoL_Deadshot sadly I had to beat it off with a hammer. Bearing is pretty stout and got lucky with no damage. I’m trying to remeber but I think I Ended up using a yz250 tusk crankshaft puller tool to install it
Great video, just not a great product. I have went thru 2 of the "C" series "over 1k price tag" in under 6 months and of course when the second prop shaft failed i was 8 months out of warranty from the original purchase date you think they would still like to help really after spending the money I have with the company, I ended up putting a stock one back in and it has been great ever since.
Dude, everyone makes it look so easy. I’ve been at this the whole day. Damn heat shield
It can be a very tedious task!
You guys did an excellent job with this install video. The video close ups were a nice touch.
Thank you! We try to get better with each video we do!
XMARGH it’s pretty
Much that easy, the hardest part was getting the prop shaft shield out, it’s was kind of a pain.
To add info and maybe help someone. On my ‘19 turbo 4 seater, you had to remove that heat shield and loosen the 10mm bolt that holds the coolant lines. Once you’ve separated the center it all slides out nicely. The rear came out the rear and the front come out the bottom. I did pull the clutch cover but don’t know if it was necessary. Only plastic that needed removed was the console in the back seat. I also used a 15mm wrench to loosen the drinker side carrier bolt from the bottom.
What diameter pipe did you use to knock the bearing on?
What’s the inner diameter of the bearing or what’s the inner diameter of the pipe you used to seat the bearing on the shaft?
How do I aline a stock front prop shaft. Same way?
How do u grease the u-joints
What happens if you put the Bering backwards
Your bearing will not accept grease thru the grease zerk.
Thank u
Good question btother
As long as the mounting housing lines up with the bearing, it doesn’t matter which way bearing is installed. There’s a grease ring on bearing and housing
Do you have a video of doing this on a 2015 ranger crew 900 ?
SATV, Is it easier to get it out through the bottom if the skid plate is off?
Its a 50/50, takes about the same time either way you do it.
I have the rhino rear shaft and the stock front shaft in my xp 1000 how should be shafts be phased in this application?
They will be phased the same as shown in this video.
Do the u joints have a grease zerk, have you guys had any feed back to how long these bearing carriers are lasting, my stock (flex bearing) or bearing carrier just went out with only 1100 miles
Good work. another tidbit instead of removing the pin from the front shaft, you can remove the diff mounting bolts and move it forward just an inch and the front prop shaft comes right out. No banging and Punch work
Thank you Joshua, you are correct that is another way it can be done. Thanks for the comment!
How often do you have to grease the u-joints
Really depends on how much you ride the machine and the conditions you ride in. If you ride in a lot of mud/water that comes in contact with the u-joints you'll want to grease more frequently. We recommend anytime doing your general maintenance like checking air filter, ball joints, ect go ahead and throw a couple pumps of grease at them.
Are these shafts balanced?
Yes they are phased and balanced.
Y’all make this stuff look so easy is it really this easy?
Hell no
I'm confused in this video I thought both opposite ends supposed to be clocked at 90 the one at the transmission would be up and down and the one at the very front at the differential would be up and down that's how the stock setup is
The Rhino driveline should be installed and clocked per this video.
@@SuperATVMedia so you're saying the center U-joint by the carrier bearing should be in the same position as the back one by the motor rzr1000s I have
So what do I do when my bearing is stuck half way on because my 400 dollar driveshaft didn’t come with a tool not everyone has pipe laying around lmao especially when retaining liquid is setting up
Did you ever figure it out? Because I’m in the same position.
@@StoL_Deadshot sadly I had to beat it off with a hammer. Bearing is pretty stout and got lucky with no damage. I’m trying to remeber but I think I Ended up using a yz250 tusk crankshaft puller tool to install it
Great video, I'm in the process of doing one now. Man they dont give you much space to work with for these driveline angles😂
Next time add more light on the video
Great video, just not a great product. I have went thru 2 of the "C" series "over 1k price tag" in under 6 months and of course when the second prop shaft failed i was 8 months out of warranty from the original purchase date you think they would still like to help really after spending the money I have with the company, I ended up putting a stock one back in and it has been great ever since.
👍
The instructions that came with this are contradicting it shows the bearing going on two different ways...but I’ll go with the way this video shows
Thanks for the heads up we will review the pdf instructions.