I purched a new 570 Ranger HD mid size in 2022. Front drive shafts have excessive play on the diff splines from new. These machines from what I see are sub standard for the hard off road use they are intended for. Here in Australia Polaris use the catchfrase Hardest Working Smoothest Ride. Don't get me wrong they are quit capable off road I like it. Just a lot lacking with metal heat treatment and metal fit. From an Indentured automotive mechanic with 60 years experience as of this year.
Thank you very much for this video. I took your advise and did this to mine. Wow what a difference! Took it to Hollerwood for thorough testing. I approve this fix!
If there's play in it & the u-joints are new & or good then this fix will definitely take care of it. Hope this takes care of your issue. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
It has worked perfect for me, I haven't had any issues since, & we ride almost every weekend. I'm hoping to ride with you guys the next time you come to Hatfield, we live in WV, I wasn't able to hook up with you guys on your last trip. Love your channel, you guys ROCK, hope you find our channel intriguing enough to subscribe, Lol. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail, & remember to " Relax & Enjoy the Journey "
I like your fix a lot. A new expansion pin and yolk would help. I wonder if a fine thread bolt would be an improvement..not sure. Great idea.. new spine in the diff, new yolk would be expensive. Wish there was a similar fix for worn hubs and loose front axles.
The axle play is a common issue on all of the RZR's, unfortunately there isn't an easy fix for that one. Mine have had play in them for over 2 years, I will probably look into doing a front diff rebuild this winter, I will do a video on it if I do. Thanks for watching, I'm sorry it took me so long to respond back, I usually try to respond every day.
Great idea on reducing the vibration. I’m having the same issues with my Ranger currently and found your video very helpful. Is the u joint with grease zerk and aftermarket product or Polaris? Thank you
Mine are Spicer u-joints (aftermarket), you can get other aftermarket with zerk fittings but spicer is the best. I bought mine from a local Drive Line shop. Glad this fix helped you out, just make sure you don't pin the back yoke, just let it slip, only pin the front. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail & " Happy Thanksgiving "
Nice vid. By the way first side by side I've owed and trying to do my own maintenance. Got a ranger 800 with the same sloppy yoke on the rear end. Lol thought I had problem solved watching you fix the front. Very ingenious idea by the way. very glad you pointed out NOT to do the rear end like that. . Lol. How can I fix the slop in the rear end part of shaft if it's worn the same way? Or is gonna be a costly fix ? Any help be greatly appreciated.
Jargie pargy if you have the play in the front you do the same as the video illustrates, but if its the rear I'm not sure yet besides replacing the pinion shaft. My rear yoke is loose as well but so far it holding up ok. I think pinning the front helped it some because it helps with the front play which can travel down the driveshaft at certain speeds. If I come up with something different I'll surely post a new video, thanks again for subscribing & the question.
That has to have had some vibration issues being out of balance now. They make a set screw for that. It's only as long as a material that you removed it has an internal Allen head. That way you only replace the steel that you took out with the drill.
There was no vibration whatsoever after the modification you see in the video. It vibrated really bad before that because of the wobble between the driveshaft & the yoke. I understand what your saying but my modification worked perfectly. Thanks for watching.
Evening.. Great video by the way very informative!When you did you feel the vibration most/ as u gave it gas or got of the throttle?I own a Chinese cfmoto 2019 uforce 1000 and hear that clunking noice and vibration upon getting off the throttle up front, do you think this may be the issue?
It possible that's the issue, I'm not real familiar with any driveline issues that CFMOTO has had. You should be able to move the Driveshaft by the front yoke feel if there's any play in it, it could just be a bad u-joint. Unfortunately getting in there & just checking it out throughly is about the only way to know for sure. Sorry I couldn't be of any more help, search the CFMOTO Forums & see if there's anything on there as well. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
Does the rear or front shafts supposed to have any play at all in the gear casing or the differential? Not only does my driveshaft have alot of this play but the rear shaft has a little play in the casing and leaks fluid when moving it a little?
The output shaft coming out of the differential should NOT have any play in it, if if does you have an issue inside the differential, possibly a pinion bearing bad. When it moves around that's why its leaking. Let us know what you find out, Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
So I did put a new output shaft seal in it and helped the leaking alot but definitely needed bearings inside the gear case. Ended up being more problems than I anticipated so I ended up getting rid of it and keeping my highlifter 1000 sportsman lol.
Used a really good drill bit & then a good tap (make sure they are paired together for the correct bolt thread size) using oil to help keep it lubricated & cool while drilling & cutting the threads with the tap. It takes a while, just be patient, it will work, let us know how it works out for you. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
I can't remember exact, but I know I used either 5/16 or 3/8 & it was a Titanium bit. Sorry I'm not much help, that's been a good while ago. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
Yes, it would vibrate pretty bad & make a horrible "clicking/rattling" sound too. Between changing to the Spicer ujoints & pinning the front yoke all the vibrations when away. I try to remember to lube my U-joints after every ride now, it pushes all the water out and keeps fresh grease in that joint, so far the new Spicer joints have lasted almost three years & that is through some very harsh conditions. Hope this helps, feel free to message me back anytime . Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
@@RZRRocks that makes it all good. The sloppy drive shafts are common on both my old ranger and this general. It's just a poor design that can be avoided. Thanks for sharing your repair and now the successful history 👍
Yes, I used the stock pin, any time I have to take the front yoke lose or remove the Driveshaft I always replace the pin with a new OEM pin. The bolts 🔩 I use are Grade 8 bolts, then I use Loctite to help keep them tight. I hope this helped & answered your question. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
No, they were installed when I had a new drive shaft made, I'm not sure what the part numbers are, if I can find out I will let you know. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
Get yourself a roll pin punch. They have a ball end and will Center on the roll pin for you. The lock bolts you installed would be a bitch if they seized in there.
No, it actually made it really smooth. The shaft vibrated really bad before this mod, now it's smooth as silk. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
It could, but it depends if it's play in the Yokes or play in the U-Joints. If it's in the yoke, then there's a high possibility that it will fix it. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
Yes I do, no issues at all, I keep my joints lubed & it's running great, no vibrations & the pining still works perfect. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
jon20m you can't pin the rear, it is designed to be a "slip" yoke. I found this out the hard way, I pinned the rear, it was fine for a short while, but it didn't take long before it started wearing on my "Spicer" ujoint because it could not "slide" on the splines on the transmission shaft & it actually caused the ujoint to go bad. After I put in the new Spicer joint in the rear & did not pin it I haven't had an issue since. Hope this helps & answers your question, Thanks for asking.
The "easiest" way is to use an Air Impact (Air Chisel) & modify your own bit that is the same size as the hole in the yoke. That pin will come put like it has butter on it. Repeat the process to put it back in. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
Thanks for watching, no I haven't had any issues with balance, it is very smooth now since the fix. The hardest thing I think is remembering to grease your u-joints after every ride. Letting water sit in those joints for anything longer than a day or 2 is hard on the joint than anything else. If your having issues with a driveshaft "wobble-vibration" drilling, tapping & adding the bolts will take care of that problem, as long as your driveshaft isn't bent. Thanks again for watching, hit me back if you have any more questions.
not a good idea to put the bolts and nuts in the yoke its going to throw the balance way out and your going to get too much vibration and cause you more problems,instead of the bolt use set screws with some retaining compound(green loctite) and the small set screws are basically going to fill the metal that you drilled out
I drove that machine another 2,500 miles after that modification, there was never any vibration & it was still going strong when I sold that machine. I understand & don't disagree with your logic but I never had any issues at all. Thanks for watching, see you on the Trail.
Wow, I had a new shaft made at a local Off-Road Driveline Shop because the original one was bent, it was $250, but they were able to reuse both yokes at that time because they were still good, but over time the vibration got bad because of wear & that's why I pinned the front yoke. My fix was still running strong after 6,500 miles when I sold the buggy. Thanks for watching, see you on the Trail.
I purched a new 570 Ranger HD mid size in 2022. Front drive shafts have excessive play on the diff splines from new.
These machines from what I see are sub standard for the hard off road use they are intended for.
Here in Australia Polaris use the catchfrase Hardest Working Smoothest Ride.
Don't get me wrong they are quit capable off road I like it.
Just a lot lacking with metal heat treatment and metal fit.
From an Indentured automotive mechanic with 60 years experience as of this year.
Thank you very much for this video. I took your advise and did this to mine. Wow what a difference! Took it to Hollerwood for thorough testing. I approve this fix!
Awesome, glad it worked for you as well, it is definitely a game changer. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
I did this when I did 1000 front diff upgrade to my ranger 900xp high lifter and it works great. Thanks for sharing
Glad it was able to help you out, Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
My 14 800s has a lot of slop. Came with u-joints so I’ll prob do this. Thanks for the info
If there's play in it & the u-joints are new & or good then this fix will definitely take care of it. Hope this takes care of your issue. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
Cool idea! Thanks for sharing! Lookin for a quick fix until my new yoke comes in.
It has worked perfect for me, I haven't had any issues since, & we ride almost every weekend. I'm hoping to ride with you guys the next time you come to Hatfield, we live in WV, I wasn't able to hook up with you guys on your last trip. Love your channel, you guys ROCK, hope you find our channel intriguing enough to subscribe, Lol. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail, & remember to
" Relax & Enjoy the Journey "
Hope everything works out for you with it ,good luck
I did this after watching this video. I used 5/16 set screws though. Been fine over a year now no play.
That's AWESOME, glad it worked out for you. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
How did you drill through the hardened splines? And what kinda tap?
@@joshuaarner2338 the yoke isn’t Hardened
I like your fix a lot. A new expansion pin and yolk would help. I wonder if a fine thread bolt would be an improvement..not sure. Great idea.. new spine in the diff, new yolk would be expensive. Wish there was a similar fix for worn hubs and loose front axles.
The axle play is a common issue on all of the RZR's, unfortunately there isn't an easy fix for that one. Mine have had play in them for over 2 years, I will probably look into doing a front diff rebuild this winter, I will do a video on it if I do. Thanks for watching, I'm sorry it took me so long to respond back, I usually try to respond every day.
If you are afraid of balance issues...use allen head set screw in place of bolts. They will sit flush and pose no vibration issues.
Good idea, I'll try that, Thanks for the info & Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
Great idea on reducing the vibration.
I’m having the same issues with my Ranger currently and found your video very helpful.
Is the u joint with grease zerk and aftermarket product or Polaris?
Thank you
Mine are Spicer u-joints (aftermarket), you can get other aftermarket with zerk fittings but spicer is the best. I bought mine from a local Drive Line shop. Glad this fix helped you out, just make sure you don't pin the back yoke, just let it slip, only pin the front. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail &
" Happy Thanksgiving "
RZR Rocks excellent!
I appreciate you getting back to me!
Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family as well!
Nice vid. By the way first side by side I've owed and trying to do my own maintenance. Got a ranger 800 with the same sloppy yoke on the rear end. Lol thought I had problem solved watching you fix the front. Very ingenious idea by the way. very glad you pointed out NOT to do the rear end like that. . Lol. How can I fix the slop in the rear end part of shaft if it's worn the same way? Or is gonna be a costly fix ? Any help be greatly appreciated.
Jargie pargy if you have the play in the front you do the same as the video illustrates, but if its the rear I'm not sure yet besides replacing the pinion shaft. My rear yoke is loose as well but so far it holding up ok. I think pinning the front helped it some because it helps with the front play which can travel down the driveshaft at certain speeds. If I come up with something different I'll surely post a new video, thanks again for subscribing & the question.
That has to have had some vibration issues being out of balance now. They make a set screw for that. It's only as long as a material that you removed it has an internal Allen head. That way you only replace the steel that you took out with the drill.
There was no vibration whatsoever after the modification you see in the video. It vibrated really bad before that because of the wobble between the driveshaft & the yoke. I understand what your saying but my modification worked perfectly. Thanks for watching.
Right on...
Barrel nuts will work awsome nice job..
Thanks for sharing..........great video
Great video.
Thanks, hope it may have helped you out. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
Right frickin on!...👍
I hope it helped you & others out. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
Evening.. Great video by the way very informative!When you did you feel the vibration most/ as u gave it gas or got of the throttle?I own a Chinese cfmoto 2019 uforce 1000 and hear that clunking noice and vibration upon getting off the throttle up front, do you think this may be the issue?
It possible that's the issue, I'm not real familiar with any driveline issues that CFMOTO has had. You should be able to move the Driveshaft by the front yoke feel if there's any play in it, it could just be a bad u-joint. Unfortunately getting in there & just checking it out throughly is about the only way to know for sure. Sorry I couldn't be of any more help, search the CFMOTO Forums & see if there's anything on there as well. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
RZR Rocks I appreciate the input👍🏽 definitely check that u-joint
matbe use a fine thread set screw with Loc-Tite in place of bolts to lock it in?
Does the rear or front shafts supposed to have any play at all in the gear casing or the differential? Not only does my driveshaft have alot of this play but the rear shaft has a little play in the casing and leaks fluid when moving it a little?
The output shaft coming out of the differential should NOT have any play in it, if if does you have an issue inside the differential, possibly a pinion bearing bad. When it moves around that's why its leaking. Let us know what you find out, Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
So I did put a new output shaft seal in it and helped the leaking alot but definitely needed bearings inside the gear case. Ended up being more problems than I anticipated so I ended up getting rid of it and keeping my highlifter 1000 sportsman lol.
How did you drill and tap the hardened splines?
Used a really good drill bit & then a good tap (make sure they are paired together for the correct bolt thread size) using oil to help keep it lubricated & cool while drilling & cutting the threads with the tap. It takes a while, just be patient, it will work, let us know how it works out for you. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
Hello, can you be specific what drill and tap you used. I have tried cobalt and carbide and cannot get through the hardened splines?
I can't remember exact, but I know I used either 5/16 or 3/8 & it was a Titanium bit. Sorry I'm not much help, that's been a good while ago. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
I know this is an older post but for others reading... You don't drill through the splines of the shaft, just the yoke.
Did u get a bad vibration in the floorboard because of the play or u joint ?
Yes, it would vibrate pretty bad & make a horrible "clicking/rattling" sound too. Between changing to the Spicer ujoints & pinning the front yoke all the vibrations when away. I try to remember to lube my U-joints after every ride now, it pushes all the water out and keeps fresh grease in that joint, so far the new Spicer joints have lasted almost three years & that is through some very harsh conditions. Hope this helps, feel free to message me back anytime . Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
So it's been about 5 years since this video - I'm wondering how well it's holding up and did you need to make any subsequent adjustments??
I sold the Buggy about 1½yrs ago, when I sold it it was still holding up perfectly, no issues.
@@RZRRocks that makes it all good. The sloppy drive shafts are common on both my old ranger and this general. It's just a poor design that can be avoided.
Thanks for sharing your repair and now the successful history 👍
No problem, Thanks for watching.
Why not just use 3/8" set screws.
Did you still use stock pin with the bolts? Or the pin gets eliminated?
Yes, I used the stock pin, any time I have to take the front yoke lose or remove the Driveshaft I always replace the pin with a new OEM pin. The bolts 🔩 I use are Grade 8 bolts, then I use Loctite to help keep them tight. I hope this helped & answered your question. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
Whats the part # for the spicer joints? Did you just pick them up from a auto parts store?
No, they were installed when I had a new drive shaft made, I'm not sure what the part numbers are, if I can find out I will let you know. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
5-103X for a 2016 turbo anyways
Would the balance be off ? I would think it would eat up the front diff, but just asking
Balance was never affected, it was smooth as silk after that, never had another problem with it. Thanks for watching 👀
Get yourself a roll pin punch. They have a ball end and will Center on the roll pin for you.
The lock bolts you installed would be a bitch if they seized in there.
Just take a fat zip tie like the havc guys use for their installs. In between the yoke and the driveshaft. I did and two years now. Three min fix lol
I'll have to remember that, Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
Do you have pics of zip tie fix thanks
@@randyperdue6164 ya here you go .sorry but I had to get to it ..and it looks like I used the inner band for the CV boot . It's been a couple years
@@mikecreeger3148
Hey Mike can I get a picture too. Are you saying to use an inner cv boot clamp instead of zip tie?
@@shawnslife3637 yes I'm trying to load it but it wont let me
Does this off balance the shaft
No, it actually made it really smooth. The shaft vibrated really bad before this mod, now it's smooth as silk. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
you think this would fix the knocking on my 1000? both the front and rear yolks have a bunch of play
It could, but it depends if it's play in the Yokes or play in the U-Joints. If it's in the yoke, then there's a high possibility that it will fix it. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
@@RZRRocks turns out it was the carrier bearing, it locked up and was spinning on the boot itself but thanks!
Glad you found the problem, Thanks again for watching.
Put a real carrier bearing setup like sand crafts..
Doo you still have the pin?
Yes I do, no issues at all, I keep my joints lubed & it's running great, no vibrations & the pining still works perfect. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
Why can't you do the same with the back yoke? It doesn't slide forward or back, it's all fixed
jon20m you can't pin the rear, it is designed to be a "slip" yoke. I found this out the hard way, I pinned the rear, it was fine for a short while, but it didn't take long before it started wearing on my "Spicer" ujoint because it could not "slide" on the splines on the transmission shaft & it actually caused the ujoint to go bad. After I put in the new Spicer joint in the rear & did not pin it I haven't had an issue since. Hope this helps & answers your question, Thanks for asking.
How do u get the dorn pin out
The "easiest" way is to use an Air Impact (Air Chisel) & modify your own bit that is the same size as the hole in the yoke. That pin will come put like it has butter on it. Repeat the process to put it back in. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
Do you have any balancing problems with the bolts installed- vibration, shaking, etc?
Thanks for watching, no I haven't had any issues with balance, it is very smooth now since the fix. The hardest thing I think is remembering to grease your u-joints after every ride. Letting water sit in those joints for anything longer than a day or 2 is hard on the joint than anything else. If your having issues with a driveshaft "wobble-vibration" drilling, tapping & adding the bolts will take care of that problem, as long as your driveshaft isn't bent. Thanks again for watching, hit me back if you have any more questions.
Which model rzr is this driveshaft from?
It's from a RZR570, but this concept can be used on any drive shaft that has play or wear in the splines. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
not a good idea to put the bolts and nuts in the yoke its going to throw the balance way out and your going to get too much vibration and cause you more problems,instead of the bolt use set screws with some retaining compound(green loctite) and the small set screws are basically going to fill the metal that you drilled out
I drove that machine another 2,500 miles after that modification, there was never any vibration & it was still going strong when I sold that machine. I understand & don't disagree with your logic but I never had any issues at all. Thanks for watching, see you on the Trail.
I bought new shaft $800
Wow, I had a new shaft made at a local Off-Road Driveline Shop because the original one was bent, it was $250, but they were able to reuse both yokes at that time because they were still good, but over time the vibration got bad because of wear & that's why I pinned the front yoke. My fix was still running strong after 6,500 miles when I sold the buggy. Thanks for watching, see you on the Trail.