How to Install Polaris RZR Bearing Carrier | SuperATV
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- Опубліковано 9 лют 2025
- See how to install one of SuperATV's two piece billet bearing carriers into a Polaris RZR 1000. Tyler and Matt show you some tips and tricks to help make the install easier for you.
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Just received mine yesterday can't wait to install thanks superatv lol wish me luck
Holy crap that was not easy took along time to do but I did it wow what a difference thanks super atv
@@vikkleocuantas millas tenía su rzr cuando las reemplazó?
How many miles/hours did I have if rzr when I replaced it?
@@ramiroespinoza3939 no issues with stock part just upgraded so I can grease it up
Doing all that work maybe replace u joints while your in there and idk some anti seize on the splines so the next time is easier but your the professional.
Good idea. I wish I had ordered the parts. Maybe it's not too late.
No kidding lots of enthusiasm in this video letting everyone know to mark your slip yoke so it’s not gonna vibrate the hell out of you and grease it and some anti seize you know things not everyone knows
Dude there's only one way the slip yoke can go on so there's no point in marking it lol I never understood that.
@@aceoutdoors7579 you are right! Just replaced my bearing carrier today and freaked out because I forgot to mark the yoke before pulling then apart. Then I realized it does only go on one way 😂😂
Buy a high quality 7/32 cobalt drill bit and drill the center out of the roll pin. This is very hard steel, run the drill slow and use lots of oil, if it binds, back up and oil it, you are catching one of the cutting edges on the roll pin edge and risk breaking the bit. Using a punch is futile and may crack the diff housing.
Thanks for the tips!
Do you put the guard back on and if so how can you get to the grease fitting?
I’m wandering the same thing??? Do you install the guard back in place?
I think not. It won't fit anymore and the holes are now occupied by their carrier.
What size of pipe was used to knock the bearing down, putting mine in today
Let me know! Also wondering
????????
Seems a hole drilled in the cover in line with the zerk would then allow greasing...
Didnt mention if the shafts have to be in phase when putting back together
it kinda looked like they marked them. im was wondering as well
Any concerns with driveshaft phasing? Does the position of the transmission output and the front diff input shafts matter? Or can I connect everything up as you did, then spin the rear tires to rotate the shaft to enable the roll pin holes to line up with the front diff input shaft holes?
Probably way too late to matter, but the center spline next to the carrier should have white paint on it by polaris to indicate the proper phasing. As long as that part goes back together with the paint marks lined up, the front and rear splines can go back on any position.
If my drive shaft is so loose that it clanks when I put it in gear and give it some throttle, is it most certainly the carrier bearing or could it still be something else?
That could be any or a combo of all components in your driveline. Definitely check the carrier and u-joints.
I wonder if it's the same exact process for the 1000 s model
James Pitts it’s not have to go from the bottom.
Do you sell just the bearing? We don't need a new housing
Could a bad bearing cause clunking under the shifter while normal driving?
Yes
I bought wheel SATV bearings for my rzr and the billet carrier bearing.I replaced all wheel bearings.2 of them totally fell apart on the trail with less than 500 miles on them.I Refuse to install their carrier bearing.I wouldn’t trust anything bearing related when it comes to SATV.Just my two cents.
It looks so easy?.. Lol. Funny I cant find a video with a RZR 4 1000. Just did one and it was a bitch. Took a few hours not minutes. One thing you guys have to stop doing is saying crap like "You can install in little as 15 minutes. My ass...
such bullcrap. Im halfway done (Just removed) and it was the biggest b**** ever. did removing your center console work for you? When i removed mine there was still plastic in the way and i had to cut part of my rear floor pan out to access things.
Looks like that wouldn’t stop vibrations like the rubber housing.
The rubber housing masks driveline issues by absorbing vibrations.
@@SuperATVMedia makes sense.
Do you put the old long black dust cover back on or delete that bit with the new bearing carrier setup?
Delete
Do you reinstall driveline shield
Would like to know that as well if you reinstall the shield and the drive shaft hoop
Does this fit the gen 1 RZR?
Give us a call with your year, make, and model so we can verify! 8557433427
Isn't the bearing saposed to be facing the front
I have installed new front and rear prop shafts and new carrier and its terrible ive got loud noises now ive ordered three bearing for the carrier and still loud wtf
How do you get the drive shaft guard back over the new carrier bearing,I can't get mine to fit.
Thanks
It will not reinstall.
Also suitable for rzr 900xp ?
Does it make a clunking noise to know that it's the barrier carrier
Generally you won't hear a clunking noise. If the carrier/bearing is bad, typically you will experience more of a bad vibration and loud hum at higher RPMs
👍👍
Nice
WARNING this is an easy job on a two seater. Four seater is pure misery. I'm really handy and fix almost anything but this was one of the worst projects I have ever done. Polaris suck for working on and longevity.
1. Pull our center consoles and cut hole bigger in plastic to access the carrier bearing and connection between two drive shafts.
2. Remove middle skid plate, only reason is so you can remove the gaurd as it will not be used after the upgrade.
3. DO NOT INSTALL BLACK BEARING CLAMP UNTIL INSTALLED IN VEHICLE. You need every mm to get slip yoke installed.
4. Highly advise changing all the u joints and BE SURE TO KEEP GREASE ZERKS ON NON SLIP YOKE SIDE, again you need every mm for the slip yokes. I installed one.the incorrect direction and made my life pure misery.
5. Find the guy in this video that says "it's that easy" and use your imagination.
This is NOT as easy as you make it look, at least for me. It seemed like every step was a fight to get it apart. First I couldn't budge the roll pin out with a hammer and punch, so I made a trip across town and got a set of roll pin punches for my air hammer, that did the trick. Then I had trouble getting the drive shafts to separate off the spline. I am doing this by myself and another set of hands would have helped, but it took some time and patience. Then it was a fight to get the steel housing off of the rubber sleeve. From there it was not too bad. I did have to cut the drive shaft guard to get it out, but it can't be used anyway with the Super ATV bearing. I expect it will go back together much easier, just waiting to the Super ATV bearing to be delivered.
All machines offer a different battle that's for sure. We are experts and do this stuff daily so that does help make things quicker and easier knowing which tool to grab next or little tricks to use. We offer these videos to give you insight of what needs to take place. Everyone has there own skill set :). If we can be of any assistance don't hesitate to pick up the phone and give us a call, we have a very talented tech team that would be happy to help. 855-743-3427.
The exact same thing happened to me today I even took the bottom cover off but it all worked out at the end of it looks way better then then stock hope it runs better to
@@SuperATVMedia Could you assist with a 4 seater rzr? specifically a 2016 xp4 turbo? Because its not at all like this video...
Wonderful except this is for the turbo model sooo now I have to rip of the bearing that I just put on and flip it
Uavquad this video is for a xp1000. Not turbo
Okay so im confused this videos has the bearing put on the rear prop shaft totally opposite from the video at superatv website so witch way does it go for a 1000 xp
@@jessecourto108 my question exactly.
I just put a sandcraft driveshaft in and believe me it’s not as easy as shown.
L