R Verro Yeah, its pretty old, but it was in very good shape considering, someone must have kept up with oil changes, etc. What I like about it is that it doesn't have the synchro-balancer on the crankshaft. Thanks for Watching!!!
Subbed, good work, I did notice one thing though that I do differently, removing the piston; I find it's easier to bang off the flywheel and remove the whole crankshaft, this lets you check on the flywheel main bushing and the upper main journal too. It's possible to sneak the crank out with the rod disconnected too so having the crank out gives you more room to play with and room to clean the case.
In flatheads like this, i've seen up to 16HP, but in ohv form they go up 17.5 or so HP. They are still making the OHV single cylinders but the flatheads went out of production around 2005/2006 or so. Thanks for Watching!!!
thanks for reply,just getting into fixing small engines ,love to do it full time,problem is not enough people dumping there old mowers like they used to ,money tight I guess
+tigertruckerman No problem, I always answer back, maybe not as fast as i should though haha I know what you mean, I love doing small engine repair work, I'd rather rebuild engines than any other repairs. That is true, alot of people hanging on to stuff anymore, then one year they all decide they need new ones, then look out, its like a cycle haha
VintageOutboardMan Thanks! Really appreciate that! They should be up in the next few days, I should have part 2 done tomorrow and part 3 up by Wednesday. Thanks for Watching!!!
Do all of the connecting rods for the B&S motors connect on that side? I have a 18.5 B&S and I'm looking on which way the connecting rod goes. I can't see the arrow on the top of the piston.
Nicely done video. I had to wait on my Lang 379 valve spring compressor... but it was worth the wait. Don't see anyway possible to remove the valves without one (especially on a chunk of Aluminum). It would be nice if it came with some instructions though. Took me a while to figure out what those thumb-screws were for... I guess all valve springs are not the same diameter... thus the thumb-screws to adjust the diameter of the prongs. Anyway, the question is... your video said your valves would be one type or the other (notched retainer ring vs. sleeved valve stem clips). Well I have one of each (sleeved clip on the exhaust/slotted retainer clip on the intake)... shouldn't they both be the same?? Also, the engine is a 10 h.p. Briggs and Stratton 254707-0124-01... FYI. Oh yeah... mine has the counter-balance part as well. Thanks for the Video... BJ
Thanks. yeah they are a life saver for sure. Its a real pain without them. I should have mentioned about that on the video, on the bigger engines they did that. you would think they would have made them the same but nope, they did one of each. probably to cut costs slightly or something. Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
You can reuse the old valves if they are still in good shape, if they are pitted bad or worn where the rides in the block then you may need new ones, same for the piston, unless its scratched up really bad or the skirt is broke then you should be able to reuse it. But always at least re-seat the valves and put in new rings. Thanks for Watching!
I got a 2003 model on the bench Im looking at. 28r707 It's not pretty on the inside. Full of water for a good while. Owner thinks someone put water in the oil for spite. Full of rust inside on the counterweights and the parts that are not aluminum. At least there was some oil in it so I think I can clean everything up and hope for the best. It will barely turn over even with me putting out on it. When I get the rod bolts off I'll know more. Got it soaking now !!
+Boo luquette Oh wow, water in the crankcase is never good. I'm sure you'll be able to clean it up, we had a 8HP like that, and we got it going. Thanks for Watching!!!
ok but it floods your comment page. I got the piston out and there was rust everywhere but not on the crank journal. Thick rust is cleaning off pretty good. Have some small pitting on the crank journal but I think I'll be fine with that. Counter weights cleaned up real good also the cam shaft. Didn't take the valves out yet I think the exaust is stuck. I'll take a a few pics and post in a day or so !!
Nice.. tks... Mine seeps oil too after 20yrs of use. Now I want to find an old engine to rebuild.. Any suggestions? OH .. recommended tubes for you.. Ive been wanting brighter RiderLawnmower headlights.. Perhaps you could do a comparison between 1156's whatever and LED's. Although they may need circuitry. Another is to mount an alternator on a deck pointing down and pulley from the crank to alternator. Home-brew backup generator. Holding my breath for #2 and #3.. Especially if you discover other good reasons it needed rebuild. It may have been just getting a bit hot from all that grass in the air cool area.
Dan Hitchcock That was the main reason I decided to rebuild it, I had to tear it down to replace the gaskets and seals, so why not re-ring it why it was half tore down. It only burnt a bit of oil, mainly smoked some at startup and you could smell it in the exhaust after it warmed up. The valve guides are worn some too which will cause one to smoke at startup, it still does just a bit. But it has plenty of compression and once its started you can't smell it anymore. I'm uploading part 2 right now, should be up in a hour or so. Thanks for Watching!
Hi mate I just rebuilded my 8hp briggs but I carnt start it I think it has to much compression I've tried a powerful drill and it struggles on the compression stroke is there anything I can do I'm thinking I overset the valve clearance do think that has something to do with it thanks mate
Its possible the valve clearance is to loose to cause that, but also crank it over with the plug out in case there is oil built up in the cylinder/on the piston, sometimes that will happen. Thanks for Watching!!!
That oil slinger, I thought that was the governor, or does the 10HP engine combine the two? Oh, OK, no oil slinger on the rod. I've never tore down anything over 5 hp so far. And as for surfacing the head, a sheet of glass and some sand paper/Emery cloth stuck on the surface should do.
+archangel20031 Yes, it does serve both purposes on the bigger engines, oil slinger and governor, you can see the weights and the plunger that works the governor arm. And on vertical engines, there is no slinger on the rod. I hear ya. That should work fine. A granite surface plate is the best method but some even use 1/2" steel plating. Thanks for Watching!!!
***** Thats the fuel solenoid, what that does is prevent "after fire" which, if you ever had a older mower that when you shut if off and a few seconds after it stops spinning it backfires, these are made to stop that, when you turn the key off, it shuts off fuel going through the jets, kind of reminds you of a fuel injector, so no extra fuel can build up in the cylinder/muffler. Usually when they go bad, they either won't run or will just back fire when you shut it off, depends on if it got stuck on or stuck off. They are expensive too for no more than what they do. Thanks for Watching!!!
Dan Hitchcock Yeah, its similar to that, but the backfire i'm talking about is after the motor stops spinning, just extra fuel built up in the exhaust. car motors sound weird when they diesel.
stupid question coming up,when I'm taking my mower to bits,is there a way I can find out with my torque wrench the correct torque so when I put it back together I know correct torque,without having manuals on hand,hope I make sense
+tigertruckerman Its not a stupid question, its actually a really good one. There's no real good way of doing it, mainly do to friction of the bolt itself (rust or corrosion causing more resistance) the only possibly way to measure it would be the old style (beam) torque wrenches, but its still not accurate enough, best to find the specs, if your rebuilding a motor, the only bolts you would need to torque is the head bolts and crankcase bolts, and if its a briggs I can look it for you (I mainly work on them and have specs handy). I might make a video on this at some point, its a good subject. Thanks for Watching!!!
Your video is super and I have the very same engine and am encountering blow-back from the oil filler tube and have blown two main seals. I assume that it is rings and thanks to your video I'll follow it and have it working again. I have one question though, did you use standard rings or were they oversize by 10?
Thanks. On this engine it had a aluminum bore cylinder so you have to use chrome rings, the oversize rings are for cast iron bore engines, the chrome rings are slightly oversized anyway to compensate for cylinder wear. Thanks for Watching!!!
McCuneWindandSolar Yep, I meant to say something about that on the video but i forgot, alot of the smaller engines, like less than 11 horsepower mainly don't have the sychrobalancer, a crank out of one of these won't work in say a 12 horse power, do to stroke length, the rod journal maybe the same, but the piston wouldn't come up to TDC. If you have a 10HP with a synchro, you might check on ebay for one like in mine. I think its more reliable without the balancer, alot of times the dogbone rod brakes. Thanks for Watching!!!
fnaguitarplayer9 yea I had that problem and had the darn thing shot right out the back of the motor. I have two more I'm rebuilding have all the parts ect and had the lip taken off it would be cool if I could have it milled so I can put a steal sleeve in it. so it would last a little longer. than the aluminium. I love to get rid of the synchro since it is the what I call the week link in these motors and you cant take them over 3600 RPM's other wise they pop. when I put this on back together I will set the RPM max to about 3400 or less to leave some wiggle room in hops it will last longer. but to find the right crank that would fit is probably a pain in the but and be better off just buying one with out the synchro. Your videos is what got me to working on rebuilding the 2 I have.
McCuneWindandSolar heard that! I've seen some pictures before of that. I don't like aluminum bore engines. i like the cast iron sleeves, hold up longer. Yep, your right, it is definitely the weak point. Now they do make a billet steel crankshaft for the 12 horse model 28's, eccarburetors sale them for racing lawn mowers. like 300 bucks last time i checked, but that would solve the problem haha I hear ya!
I have the head off my briggs and stratton engine. When I turn the top of the motor by hand the piston doesn't move like the one in the video did. What does this mean?
If the piston isn't moving up and down at all, the engine probably has a broken connecting rod. Depending on if there is any other internal damage they can usually be fixed. Thanks for Watching!!!
Hi, love your videos. I have a couple of questions: 1. If the cylinder had a scratch in it would you hone it? There's mixed messages out there, some say "never hone an aluminum cylinder" because it removes the coating and others have honed them and say the engine is working fine. So, if I have a scratch that I can catch with my fingernail, should I hone it? The clearances are very good and the scratch is a vertical scratch that runs about 1,5 inches, just enough to easily catch with one's fingernail. 2. I didn't see you put the oil slinger back. I was having trouble getting it in the right position when I reassembled. Thanks for the videos and for any response you can offer.
Appreciate that! If its not real bad it shouldn't take a whole lot of honing so it SHOULD be fine to hone it in that case, and you don't have to hone it until it disappears, just do it until it can't be felt with your fingernail. to avoid taking any more off then is necessary. Because the new rings will seat in and will wear the cylinder wall some too. And make sure you use chrome rings, they are a tad bigger and is the only type that can be used in aluminum cylinders. I may not have showed putting it back, what I do is line up the rod on the slinger (that the weights move back and forth) with the paddle shaped piece on the governor arm, if its lined up with it it should go back together easily. Your welcome, feel free to ask me anything else. Thanks for Watching!!!
Hey. Do you know where I can find piston ring gaps when in the cylinder? Do they need to be ground down? My engine model # 254707 type 0124-01 code 92090230
I answered on your other comment to, on that video on the ring gaps, I mention I try to keep them between .003" and .010", any more than that and it will loose compression and burn oil. Thanks for Watching!!!
Its a small motorcycle / atv battery that goes under the cover plate where the gear shifter is, they don't last very long either, on my other mower i made a small bracket where the hitch is put a standard size battery there. Thanks for Watching!!!
After the place I used to deal with went out of business, I order from a combination of places now, MFGsupply, jacks small engine, and alot off of ebay and amazon. Thanks for Watching!!!
No actually i do not. But it will be very very similar to this, if its a horizontal shaft the carburetor and linkages will be the biggest difference. I will do one when i rebuild one next time, i have one that needs it and probably won't get to it until next summer. Thanks for Watching!!!
I have a 10 hp . I was wondering if anyone knows, If you can use an 8hp Crank? My key way is fucked, So I want to use an 8 crank I have . Just want to know before I proceed
I don't think it will work, you will have to compare model numbers, if it starts with same 2 digits it should work. You will just have to check crank bearing sizes, journal size and stroke length. But right off hand I'm not sure. Thanks for Watching!!!
Hey Bud, just finishing up my 10 hp B&S (254707-0124-01) and was going back over your videos to make sure I don't have any pieces left over (lol). I have a question for you. I have the engine back together except for carburetor and exhaust. When I hand turn the flywheel, the engine spins nice and smooth, but there is a click noise coming from the valves (both intake and exhaust). Is this normal if the engine doesn't have oil in it yet? When I lapped the valve seats, I had to file the exhaust valve to get the right clearance. Have I screwed the pooch? Wish I could send you a video so that you could see and hear better what is happening. Is that possible?
@@fnaguitarplayer9 Hey Bud... thanks for the reply. Decided best to be safe than sorry, so I took the motor back apart. It wasn't the valves at all. It was the oil slinger device. That STP is kinda sticky, and some got on the gear that spins the slinger and the gear teeth on the cam. What I was hearing was the oil slinger tapping against those raised bosses on the bottom engine case. So I took it back out, cleaned it good, and just used a squirt of 30 wt. motor oil. End of tapping issue. So it is all back together again, complete with exhaust and carburetor. Haven't ran it yet (waiting on new carburetor linkages and bracket), but it sparks the plug when it is supposed to... so I am gonna declare VICTORY. Thanks again man (especially for the oil slinger video)... could not of done it without your videos. YOU DA MAN....
I show a little bit of it and talk more about it in my 12.5HP rebuild video, its a 3 part video as well and i go into more detail on certain parts. On aluminum bore engines you use chrome piston rings and you do not need to hone them, some brands actually have a coating on them that will be removed if honed. Other people will say otherwise but i'm going by briggs books/manuals on that, the chrome rings are slightly oversized to make up the difference of the alum cylinder wall wearing. Thanks For Watching!!!
Wish I Was Camping Yes, it is, a 80's model with the 38" cut deck on it. I just posted another video on fixing the deck on it. They are really good mowers, can not be a montgomery ward. Thanks for Watching!
fnaguitarplayer9 yeah i got mine about a week ago at the junk yard for $50 and i got it home and put a pull cup on it because it had no starter and poured some gas down the card and pulled it twice and started and ran fine not i put carb cleaner and starting fluid in it and it wont start its got spark gas and compression but no fire
Wish I Was Camping I hear ya, thats not a bad deal at all. I'd suggest taking the carburetor off and cleaning it, i have videos on how to clean that type of carburetor, thats almost always the problem. Now it is possible that the flywheel key is sheared, it will still spark (unless it has points/condenser) but the spark will be out of time, most of the time when that happens they will backfire, not always. If it has compression and good spark, those are the only 2 things it can be. hope this helps!
fnaguitarplayer9 good news the jet in the carb was all gummed up and dirty i blew all the dirt out and put it back together and hooked up a tank with some gas and poured a little down in the carb and it fired right up and 1 little puff of smoke it seems to be a really strong motor for to age
That is usually the governor needing to be adjusted. if that doesn't fix it (i have a video on it) then its probably the internal governor broke. Thanks for Watching!!!
antonio blocker Thanks, really appreciate that! Parts 2 and 3 will be uploaded in the next few days, I plan to put part 2 up tomorrow and part 3 by Wednesday. They are all done, just have some finishing touches to add to them. I was going to make it one big video, but it would have been 37 minutes long! Thanks for Watching!!!
I think i show it in one of the other parts of this video, but a simple trick is make sure the rod on the end is pointing towards the paddle and it will go together easy. Thanks for Watching!!!
This particular mower doesn't have a fuel pump it's gravity fed, hose from tank goes into filter then into a shutoff valve that I added, then to the carburetor.
No problem, mostly from helping my dad work on the mowers and he taught most of what i know, then he got tired of working on them and turned it over to me and i took it from there and starting making videos around 2009 i think it was. Thanks for Watching!!!
1972FordF150 Nope! Its unusual, i think this is the first riding mower engine i have that don't have it. I meant to say something on the video about it but i forgot. The balancers are good too, but aren't always reliable, those dogbones always break. I've never had one break myself, but i've seen what happens when they do haha And there is a tad more vibration, but its nothing major. I'll have part 2 and 3 up in the next few days. Thanks for Watching!!!
"use the bolts as levers to pry the cap off" this is exactly what i did not do. thanks for the assist
Great start to a fine rebuild ! Going for the Part 2 now ..
ShawnMrFixit Lee Thanks! I'm uploading part 2 now, should be up in a hour or so. Thanks for Watching!!!
For sure , We small engine guys have to stick together ..LOL.. !!
haha I hear ya!
Most helpful videos I could find. Thanks mate 🇦🇺
Wow ! That's an old one for the books (The engine). Thumbs-up !
R Verro Yeah, its pretty old, but it was in very good shape considering, someone must have kept up with oil changes, etc. What I like about it is that it doesn't have the synchro-balancer on the crankshaft. Thanks for Watching!!!
Subbed, good work, I did notice one thing though that I do differently, removing the piston; I find it's easier to bang off the flywheel and remove the whole crankshaft, this lets you check on the flywheel main bushing and the upper main journal too. It's possible to sneak the crank out with the rod disconnected too so having the crank out gives you more room to play with and room to clean the case.
+9102jack Appreciate that, Thanks for Watching!!!
What were Briggs single cylinder engines over ten HP available for sale ??? And what years made these single cylinder made too ??? Thanks
In flatheads like this, i've seen up to 16HP, but in ohv form they go up 17.5 or so HP. They are still making the OHV single cylinders but the flatheads went out of production around 2005/2006 or so. Thanks for Watching!!!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 Thanks for the education fella. Good day too.
thanks for reply,just getting into fixing small engines ,love to do it full time,problem is not enough people dumping there old mowers like they used to ,money tight I guess
+tigertruckerman No problem, I always answer back, maybe not as fast as i should though haha I know what you mean, I love doing small engine repair work, I'd rather rebuild engines than any other repairs. That is true, alot of people hanging on to stuff anymore, then one year they all decide they need new ones, then look out, its like a cycle haha
Build a race kart or mower.
Great video man, I can't wait to see part 2 & 3!
VintageOutboardMan Thanks! Really appreciate that! They should be up in the next few days, I should have part 2 done tomorrow and part 3 up by Wednesday. Thanks for Watching!!!
Excellent Video.Thank you.
John Wilson Thanks, really appreciate that! your welcome, and thanks for watching!!!
Do all of the connecting rods for the B&S motors connect on that side? I have a 18.5 B&S and I'm looking on which way the connecting rod goes. I can't see the arrow on the top of the piston.
Nicely done video. I had to wait on my Lang 379 valve spring compressor... but it was worth the wait. Don't see anyway possible to remove the valves without one (especially on a chunk of Aluminum). It would be nice if it came with some instructions though. Took me a while to figure out what those thumb-screws were for... I guess all valve springs are not the same diameter... thus the thumb-screws to adjust the diameter of the prongs. Anyway, the question is... your video said your valves would be one type or the other (notched retainer ring vs. sleeved valve stem clips). Well I have one of each (sleeved clip on the exhaust/slotted retainer clip on the intake)... shouldn't they both be the same?? Also, the engine is a 10 h.p. Briggs and Stratton 254707-0124-01... FYI. Oh yeah... mine has the counter-balance part as well. Thanks for the Video... BJ
Thanks. yeah they are a life saver for sure. Its a real pain without them. I should have mentioned about that on the video, on the bigger engines they did that. you would think they would have made them the same but nope, they did one of each. probably to cut costs slightly or something. Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
Can u replace the balancer bushings in these older mower engines
They are a replaceable/removable part but i've never found them anywhere. A machine shop may be able to make them though. Thanks for Watching!!!
Hey. I'm new to small engines. Can you put me valve in or do you have to use the old ones? Same with piston?
You can reuse the old valves if they are still in good shape, if they are pitted bad or worn where the rides in the block then you may need new ones, same for the piston, unless its scratched up really bad or the skirt is broke then you should be able to reuse it. But always at least re-seat the valves and put in new rings. Thanks for Watching!
I got a 2003 model on the bench Im looking at. 28r707 It's not pretty on the inside. Full of water for a good while. Owner thinks someone put water in the oil for spite. Full of rust inside on the counterweights and the parts that are not aluminum. At least there was some oil in it so I think I can clean everything up and hope for the best. It will barely turn over even with me putting out on it. When I get the rod bolts off I'll know more. Got it soaking now !!
+Boo luquette Oh wow, water in the crankcase is never good. I'm sure you'll be able to clean it up, we had a 8HP like that, and we got it going. Thanks for Watching!!!
are you on FB how can we communicate other than here ??
On here is fine, I do plan to make a facebook page at some point.
ok but it floods your comment page. I got the piston out and there was rust everywhere but not on the crank journal. Thick rust is cleaning off pretty good. Have some small pitting on the crank journal but I think I'll be fine with that. Counter weights cleaned up real good also the cam shaft. Didn't take the valves out yet I think the exaust is stuck. I'll take a a few pics and post in a day or so !!
Good thing it's a Power Built it's a cast iron sleeve.
Nice.. tks... Mine seeps oil too after 20yrs of use. Now I want to find an old engine to rebuild.. Any suggestions?
OH .. recommended tubes for you.. Ive been wanting brighter RiderLawnmower headlights.. Perhaps you could do a comparison between 1156's whatever and LED's.
Although they may need circuitry. Another is to mount an alternator on a deck pointing down and pulley from the crank to alternator. Home-brew backup generator.
Holding my breath for #2 and #3.. Especially if you discover other good reasons it needed rebuild. It may have been just getting a bit hot from all that grass in the air cool area.
Dan Hitchcock That was the main reason I decided to rebuild it, I had to tear it down to replace the gaskets and seals, so why not re-ring it why it was half tore down. It only burnt a bit of oil, mainly smoked some at startup and you could smell it in the exhaust after it warmed up. The valve guides are worn some too which will cause one to smoke at startup, it still does just a bit. But it has plenty of compression and once its started you can't smell it anymore. I'm uploading part 2 right now, should be up in a hour or so. Thanks for Watching!
Hi mate I just rebuilded my 8hp briggs but I carnt start it I think it has to much compression I've tried a powerful drill and it struggles on the compression stroke is there anything I can do I'm thinking I overset the valve clearance do think that has something to do with it thanks mate
Its possible the valve clearance is to loose to cause that, but also crank it over with the plug out in case there is oil built up in the cylinder/on the piston, sometimes that will happen. Thanks for Watching!!!
That oil slinger, I thought that was the governor, or does the 10HP engine combine the two?
Oh, OK, no oil slinger on the rod.
I've never tore down anything over 5 hp so far.
And as for surfacing the head, a sheet of glass and some sand paper/Emery cloth stuck on the surface should do.
+archangel20031 Yes, it does serve both purposes on the bigger engines, oil slinger and governor, you can see the weights and the plunger that works the governor arm. And on vertical engines, there is no slinger on the rod. I hear ya. That should work fine. A granite surface plate is the best method but some even use 1/2" steel plating. Thanks for Watching!!!
On some mowers they have a thing that sticks out of the bottom carb. Bowl with 2 wires. What is that. And what does it do if it goes bad.
***** Thats the fuel solenoid, what that does is prevent "after fire" which, if you ever had a older mower that when you shut if off and a few seconds after it stops spinning it backfires, these are made to stop that, when you turn the key off, it shuts off fuel going through the jets, kind of reminds you of a fuel injector, so no extra fuel can build up in the cylinder/muffler. Usually when they go bad, they either won't run or will just back fire when you shut it off, depends on if it got stuck on or stuck off. They are expensive too for no more than what they do. Thanks for Watching!!!
fnaguitarplayer9 Yah, I learned long ago. Dieseling, as its called after turning off a car is really an idle mix or idle setting fix.
Dan Hitchcock Yeah, its similar to that, but the backfire i'm talking about is after the motor stops spinning, just extra fuel built up in the exhaust. car motors sound weird when they diesel.
stupid question coming up,when I'm taking my mower to bits,is there a way I can find out with my torque wrench the correct torque so when I put it back together I know correct torque,without having manuals on hand,hope I make sense
+tigertruckerman Its not a stupid question, its actually a really good one. There's no real good way of doing it, mainly do to friction of the bolt itself (rust or corrosion causing more resistance) the only possibly way to measure it would be the old style (beam) torque wrenches, but its still not accurate enough, best to find the specs, if your rebuilding a motor, the only bolts you would need to torque is the head bolts and crankcase bolts, and if its a briggs I can look it for you (I mainly work on them and have specs handy). I might make a video on this at some point, its a good subject. Thanks for Watching!!!
Your video is super and I have the very same engine and am encountering blow-back from the oil filler tube and have blown two main seals. I assume that it is rings and thanks to your video I'll follow it and have it working again. I have one question though, did you use standard rings or were they oversize by 10?
Thanks. On this engine it had a aluminum bore cylinder so you have to use chrome rings, the oversize rings are for cast iron bore engines, the chrome rings are slightly oversized anyway to compensate for cylinder wear. Thanks for Watching!!!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 Thank you for the reply, it was a big help. I enjoy and learn from your videos, they are 1st rate--Vern
I noticed that didn't have a balancer on it were can I get a crank like that with out the balancer on the thing.
McCuneWindandSolar Yep, I meant to say something about that on the video but i forgot, alot of the smaller engines, like less than 11 horsepower mainly don't have the sychrobalancer, a crank out of one of these won't work in say a 12 horse power, do to stroke length, the rod journal maybe the same, but the piston wouldn't come up to TDC. If you have a 10HP with a synchro, you might check on ebay for one like in mine. I think its more reliable without the balancer, alot of times the dogbone rod brakes. Thanks for Watching!!!
fnaguitarplayer9 yea I had that problem and had the darn thing shot right out the back of the motor. I have two more I'm rebuilding have all the parts ect and had the lip taken off it would be cool if I could have it milled so I can put a steal sleeve in it. so it would last a little longer. than the aluminium. I love to get rid of the synchro since it is the what I call the week link in these motors and you cant take them over 3600 RPM's other wise they pop. when I put this on back together I will set the RPM max to about 3400 or less to leave some wiggle room in hops it will last longer. but to find the right crank that would fit is probably a pain in the but and be better off just buying one with out the synchro. Your videos is what got me to working on rebuilding the 2 I have.
McCuneWindandSolar heard that! I've seen some pictures before of that. I don't like aluminum bore engines. i like the cast iron sleeves, hold up longer. Yep, your right, it is definitely the weak point. Now they do make a billet steel crankshaft for the 12 horse model 28's, eccarburetors sale them for racing lawn mowers. like 300 bucks last time i checked, but that would solve the problem haha I hear ya!
I have the head off my briggs and stratton engine. When I turn the top of the motor by hand the piston doesn't move like the one in the video did. What does this mean?
If the piston isn't moving up and down at all, the engine probably has a broken connecting rod. Depending on if there is any other internal damage they can usually be fixed. Thanks for Watching!!!
Do you use rings the same as original part # or upgrade to different style?
Usually use oem or oem equivalent, some aftermarket ring are made different. thanks for watching!!!
Hi, love your videos.
I have a couple of questions:
1. If the cylinder had a scratch in it would you hone it? There's mixed messages out there, some say "never hone an aluminum cylinder" because it removes the coating and others have honed them and say the engine is working fine. So, if I have a scratch that I can catch with my fingernail, should I hone it? The clearances are very good and the scratch is a vertical scratch that runs about 1,5 inches, just enough to easily catch with one's fingernail.
2. I didn't see you put the oil slinger back. I was having trouble getting it in the right position when I reassembled.
Thanks for the videos and for any response you can offer.
Appreciate that! If its not real bad it shouldn't take a whole lot of honing so it SHOULD be fine to hone it in that case, and you don't have to hone it until it disappears, just do it until it can't be felt with your fingernail. to avoid taking any more off then is necessary. Because the new rings will seat in and will wear the cylinder wall some too. And make sure you use chrome rings, they are a tad bigger and is the only type that can be used in aluminum cylinders. I may not have showed putting it back, what I do is line up the rod on the slinger (that the weights move back and forth) with the paddle shaped piece on the governor arm, if its lined up with it it should go back together easily. Your welcome, feel free to ask me anything else. Thanks for Watching!!!
Hey. Do you know where I can find piston ring gaps when in the cylinder? Do they need to be ground down? My engine model # 254707 type 0124-01 code 92090230
My model # is 254707 type 0124-01 code 92090230. I need to know the ring gap when in the cylinder...do you know where to find it
I answered on your other comment to, on that video on the ring gaps, I mention I try to keep them between .003" and .010", any more than that and it will loose compression and burn oil. Thanks for Watching!!!
the crack at 11:50 is a casting flaw. its not a crack just like a superficial mark. :-)
I hear ya, i thought it might be in the casting but looked more like a crack. That might be all it was. Thanks for Watching!!!
What battery goes on that mower and where the hell does it go
Its a small motorcycle / atv battery that goes under the cover plate where the gear shifter is, they don't last very long either, on my other mower i made a small bracket where the hitch is put a standard size battery there. Thanks for Watching!!!
What do you mean by homing it? I have a 12hp Briggs that needs new rings
honing the cylinder, i put a video recently on how to do it, I show it and talk about when to do and when not to, etc. Thanks for Watching!!!
fnaguitarplayer9
Where did you get the rebuild parts
After the place I used to deal with went out of business, I order from a combination of places now, MFGsupply, jacks small engine, and alot off of ebay and amazon. Thanks for Watching!!!
do Briggs engines have keyway on driveshaft?, I ask because boss blade keeps breaking, I know flywheel does
+Womb Smasher Some do, usually the blade adapter though not the blade itself, just depends on the model. Thanks for Watching!!!
Do you have a video like this one, on 8hp Briggs and Stratton
No actually i do not. But it will be very very similar to this, if its a horizontal shaft the carburetor and linkages will be the biggest difference. I will do one when i rebuild one next time, i have one that needs it and probably won't get to it until next summer. Thanks for Watching!!!
hey i have the same motor but cannot find the piston size. Does anyone know a 10 hp b&s L head piston size???
GIve me the model number off of it and I can tell for sure what it is, they used the same HP ratings for different models. Thanks for Watching!!!
I have a 10 hp . I was wondering if anyone knows, If you can use an 8hp Crank? My key way is fucked, So I want to use an 8 crank I have . Just want to know before I proceed
I don't think it will work, you will have to compare model numbers, if it starts with same 2 digits it should work. You will just have to check crank bearing sizes, journal size and stroke length. But right off hand I'm not sure. Thanks for Watching!!!
you can use a 7/8 inch 6 hp crank but not a 8hp
Hey Bud, just finishing up my 10 hp B&S (254707-0124-01) and was going back over your videos to make sure I don't have any pieces left over (lol). I have a question for you. I have the engine back together except for carburetor and exhaust. When I hand turn the flywheel, the engine spins nice and smooth, but there is a click noise coming from the valves (both intake and exhaust). Is this normal if the engine doesn't have oil in it yet? When I lapped the valve seats, I had to file the exhaust valve to get the right clearance. Have I screwed the pooch? Wish I could send you a video so that you could see and hear better what is happening. Is that possible?
I hear ya haha It might just be from them being dry, not sure, they will make a tick sound when closing. Thanks for Watching!!!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 Hey Bud... thanks for the reply. Decided best to be safe than sorry, so I took the motor back apart. It wasn't the valves at all. It was the oil slinger device. That STP is kinda sticky, and some got on the gear that spins the slinger and the gear teeth on the cam. What I was hearing was the oil slinger tapping against those raised bosses on the bottom engine case. So I took it back out, cleaned it good, and just used a squirt of 30 wt. motor oil. End of tapping issue. So it is all back together again, complete with exhaust and carburetor. Haven't ran it yet (waiting on new carburetor linkages and bracket), but it sparks the plug when it is supposed to... so I am gonna declare VICTORY. Thanks again man (especially for the oil slinger video)... could not of done it without your videos. YOU DA MAN....
@@boyettedesign glad to hear it was something simple! no problem!
Will u or can u explain again about honing out the cylinder. U said something about alum. Steel sleeves. ?? I don't understand
I show a little bit of it and talk more about it in my 12.5HP rebuild video, its a 3 part video as well and i go into more detail on certain parts. On aluminum bore engines you use chrome piston rings and you do not need to hone them, some brands actually have a coating on them that will be removed if honed. Other people will say otherwise but i'm going by briggs books/manuals on that, the chrome rings are slightly oversized to make up the difference of the alum cylinder wall wearing. Thanks For Watching!!!
is that a montgomery ward if it is i have one with the same motor
Wish I Was Camping Yes, it is, a 80's model with the 38" cut deck on it. I just posted another video on fixing the deck on it. They are really good mowers, can not be a montgomery ward. Thanks for Watching!
fnaguitarplayer9 yeah i got mine about a week ago at the junk yard for $50 and i got it home and put a pull cup on it because it had no starter and poured some gas down the card and pulled it twice and started and ran fine not i put carb cleaner and starting fluid in it and it wont start its got spark gas and compression but no fire
Wish I Was Camping I hear ya, thats not a bad deal at all. I'd suggest taking the carburetor off and cleaning it, i have videos on how to clean that type of carburetor, thats almost always the problem. Now it is possible that the flywheel key is sheared, it will still spark (unless it has points/condenser) but the spark will be out of time, most of the time when that happens they will backfire, not always. If it has compression and good spark, those are the only 2 things it can be. hope this helps!
il do that
fnaguitarplayer9 good news the jet in the carb was all gummed up and dirty i blew all the dirt out and put it back together and hooked up a tank with some gas and poured a little down in the carb and it fired right up and 1 little puff of smoke it seems to be a really strong motor for to age
I have a 10hp power built and it is a model 28 same as my 12.5hp I/C
I'm not surprised, they were about just putting any HP rating on any engine and still do it today. Thanks for Watching!!!
That oil that was drained appeared to be mixed with gas
I have a 12.5 up b&s model 286707 that suddenly started idling at high speed and doesn't adjust!
!
That is usually the governor needing to be adjusted. if that doesn't fix it (i have a video on it) then its probably the internal governor broke. Thanks for Watching!!!
cool vid !!!
voltron63 Thanks for Watching!!!
Dam good video in detail where's parts 2 and 3 ?
antonio blocker Thanks, really appreciate that! Parts 2 and 3 will be uploaded in the next few days, I plan to put part 2 up tomorrow and part 3 by Wednesday. They are all done, just have some finishing touches to add to them. I was going to make it one big video, but it would have been 37 minutes long! Thanks for Watching!!!
Cool I'll tune in soon as its posted
antonio blocker sounds good! I'm uploading it now, should be up in a hour or so.
Cool I'll be watching very informative video
Thanks!
When replacing the oil slinger, is there a particular way to put it in?
I think i show it in one of the other parts of this video, but a simple trick is make sure the rod on the end is pointing towards the paddle and it will go together easy. Thanks for Watching!!!
i was curious if i could email you i have a question about my briggs engine
Just leave me a comment on a video like you just did or send me a message and I will answer back asap! Thanks for Watching!!!
fnaguitarplayer9 i was just curious about your fuel pump how its set up where the lines go.
This particular mower doesn't have a fuel pump it's gravity fed, hose from tank goes into filter then into a shutoff valve that I added, then to the carburetor.
Thanks for replying to my ?'s. How did u learn all u know
No problem, mostly from helping my dad work on the mowers and he taught most of what i know, then he got tired of working on them and turned it over to me and i took it from there and starting making videos around 2009 i think it was. Thanks for Watching!!!
No synchro balancer in this one? lol
1972FordF150 Nope! Its unusual, i think this is the first riding mower engine i have that don't have it. I meant to say something on the video about it but i forgot. The balancers are good too, but aren't always reliable, those dogbones always break. I've never had one break myself, but i've seen what happens when they do haha And there is a tad more vibration, but its nothing major. I'll have part 2 and 3 up in the next few days. Thanks for Watching!!!
nice
RobsPackanShine Thanks for Watching!!!
Holy shit I have that same mower
I hear ya! Thanks for Watching!!!
I love small engine porn!!! Thanks for the fix. 🤪
haha Thanks for Watching!!!
Wire wheel on a piston 😂
Its fine on the top, it won't hurt nothing, keep it off the sides and don't hit the cylinder walls with it. Thanks for Watching!!!