I had the same engine on the Dune cycle in the '70sIf you would have used bolts for the exhaust you get more area for exhaust flowMine had a header made out of bicycle handlebar and it ran really good
Valve Springs, If you don't have a spring compressor I use an open end spanner aided with a flat head screw driver, place spring and seat on top of the spanner insert into cavity drop valve in maneuver seat into place on valve use screwdriver to hold in place remove the spanner and your done.
Love the old side valve B&S's. Look after them and they last forever........... Mind you, they seem to still last for ever even if you don't look after them. :D I'm actually looking for an old 5hp lump at the minute. I want to connect one up to an alternator to make an emergency 12v charger for if the power goes out for an extended period here and my DIY battery/inverter power banks need topping up. It's a shame I'm somewhere between 3500 and 5000 miles away from you or I might have been asking what you have kicking about that you wanted to sell. :D
It's the valve springs are weakened from over the years of usage is what's causing that issue with the low compression reading's.,or your compression gauge is bad now one of the two. I know that those valve springs do get weak over time from wear and tear. Right along with heat friction and cooling back down repeatedly to over time does it them.,or the engine being ran on low oil causes those same issues as we'll. It's called heat sink friction expansion and contraction. Witch basically means it stretches the valve springs out from the heat inside of the engine from swelling up and shrinking back down when cooled down.
instead of cutting that cam pully of id have made use of it and use it to power a generator for lights and a charging system. i have a 3hp thats on a 60s model tote gote. most reliable thing ive got and its all original parts. ive just refurbished them with homemade gaskets and permatex ultra copper. the exhaust is conduit and a cheap muffler from tractor supply. runs good
I know of Away that you might be able to still get that bolt out of the engine block by using A propane torch lightly heating up around the threaded surface area of the bolt hole that's after drilling it to fit A reverse drill bit witch is similar to A easy out bit to. Tap it in lightly with A small ball pin hammer to set the easy out in good to use A wrench to turn it slowly while it's still warm spray the threads with some PB-blaster oil first. Then proceed to slowly turn the bolt gently wrench straight inline with the bit to loosen it up. Good luck to you. Heat it up enough until it barely starts to kinda let off smoke fumes then try the rest of it all out.
@MechannibalGarage65 I would of welded a nut onto it I'm getting ready to do that with a kawasaki engine side shaft engine I have no choice can't thread in exhaust I paid 20 for it runs great just have to get them out also how would you hook up a throttle cable to this carb for minibike or go kart?
Well this isint exactly a mod you just threw a pipe and carb on what you can do for under 100 bucks is open up your intake and exhaust and shave the head for extra bang for your buck they also do sell racing parts for flathead brigs
I work on these on a daily basis 60psi is normal
I came here to say exactly that.
@@jldwolfeno it’s not 60 psi is quite low
Flathead Briggs, you can't go wrong ! Most reliable motor for lawn and garden equipment ever invented !!!
The auxiliary cam shaft sticking out is for the reverse feature on a tiller
also can use that for a belt fed super charger
I had the same engine on the Dune cycle in the '70sIf you would have used bolts for the exhaust you get more area for exhaust flowMine had a header made out of bicycle handlebar and it ran really good
Love the bloopers at the end.
Valve Springs, If you don't have a spring compressor I use an open end spanner aided with a flat head screw driver, place spring and seat on top of the spanner insert into cavity drop valve in maneuver seat into place on valve use screwdriver to hold in place remove the spanner and your done.
model T had 60 psi compression. ran well enuf... ,just little down on power but burn anything flammable
Love the old side valve B&S's. Look after them and they last forever........... Mind you, they seem to still last for ever even if you don't look after them. :D
I'm actually looking for an old 5hp lump at the minute. I want to connect one up to an alternator to make an emergency 12v charger for if the power goes out for an extended period here and my DIY battery/inverter power banks need topping up. It's a shame I'm somewhere between 3500 and 5000 miles away from you or I might have been asking what you have kicking about that you wanted to sell. :D
nice carb bowl boiler you got there, heat rises
Mine got the same PSI. Thought my tester was bad too lol
It's the valve springs are weakened from over the years of usage is what's causing that issue with the low compression reading's.,or your compression gauge is bad now one of the two. I know that those valve springs do get weak over time from wear and tear. Right along with heat friction and cooling back down repeatedly to over time does it them.,or the engine being ran on low oil causes those same issues as we'll. It's called heat sink friction expansion and contraction. Witch basically means it stretches the valve springs out from the heat inside of the engine from swelling up and shrinking back down when cooled down.
Going to do a PZ19 swap onto my tiller so can empty tank n carb, now to find a throttle, hopefully thumb, twist would be too much fun..
reminds me, still have a new predator engine in box, bought when they first came out at HF..
Really can't follow your monologue with the background music
What did you do to bypass the governor? I see the arm is still in the block. Is it fixed in place somehow?
I just took the arm and linkages off that would have connected to the carb. The gear and other components were left in the engine.
@@MechannibalGarage65 Do you recommend removing the guys of the governor?
Thank you for this vid. I have this same exact engine and mine was free also! Snowblower engine
instead of cutting that cam pully of id have made use of it and use it to power a generator for lights and a charging system. i have a 3hp thats on a 60s model tote gote. most reliable thing ive got and its all original parts. ive just refurbished them with homemade gaskets and permatex ultra copper. the exhaust is conduit and a cheap muffler from tractor supply. runs good
The cam spins clockwise and half the speed of the crank but with the right pully setup it would probably work.
I know of Away that you might be able to still get that bolt out of the engine block by using A propane torch lightly heating up around the threaded surface area of the bolt hole that's after drilling it to fit A reverse drill bit witch is similar to A easy out bit to. Tap it in lightly with A small ball pin hammer to set the easy out in good to use A wrench to turn it slowly while it's still warm spray the threads with some PB-blaster oil first. Then proceed to slowly turn the bolt gently wrench straight inline with the bit to loosen it up. Good luck to you. Heat it up enough until it barely starts to kinda let off smoke fumes then try the rest of it all out.
I tried that... and broke the extractor off haha so I gave up
@MechannibalGarage65 I would of welded a nut onto it I'm getting ready to do that with a kawasaki engine side shaft engine I have no choice can't thread in exhaust I paid 20 for it runs great just have to get them out also how would you hook up a throttle cable to this carb for minibike or go kart?
Can you do one on a Biggs and Stratton 2.5
Sure next time I find one
@@MechannibalGarage65 thanks
These engines have a comp release built into the cam, 60 psi is normal.
What was that intake manifold you used? Can't find the original video for the 3.5hp briggs and stratton.
It's a tecumseh part, and the part number is 28416A
@@MechannibalGarage65 Thanks, it is not available over here, so another great idea lost.
What did you use to clean it ? Awesome vide by the way
Brake parts cleaner
I love your race mower can you finish it I love your videos keep going
What is the carb model number?
It was just a cloned snowblower style carb so no manufacturer or model numbers unfortunately
What carburetor is that that you used
Just a generic adjustable lawn mower carb off ebay
it think that gear on the cam is a reverse shaft.
It is
Why don't you port that head, at least the exhaust 😮
I probably will once I find out it's not enough power for the kart it'll be in
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I will give you 200 dollars for that motor
Definitely install a predator on their I think they're about $150 6 1/2 horse
Well this isint exactly a mod you just threw a pipe and carb on what you can do for under 100 bucks is open up your intake and exhaust and shave the head for extra bang for your buck they also do sell racing parts for flathead brigs
Where do they sell racing parts for a Briggs?
@@Bayareaminibike you buy them used
@@Turles811 ahhh u will look on there just got a Briggs for my mini bike I will be doing work on.
@@Bayareaminibike yes
maybe im missing the point but this isnt a mod its just getting an old engine running. a predator will make more horse power
Music makes this almost unwatchable.
Yeah.. I figured that out the hard way