I’m so glad I found this product. My local auto shops are quoting $400 - 1000 to paint a 1.5 foot bumper corner. There is no way in hell it costs that much to fix a pre-primed and sanded auto part. Can’t wait to use this!
My wife has a 2013 Volkswagen Tiguan. There were scratches on the passenger side from a recent trip to the airport. I was able to buff some out, but one scratch was deep and I over-buffed it, removing the paint. I ordered the touch up spray6 can kit matching the color from the factory. It was a perfect match and the car looks great. Never did that before but the videos showed how easy it was.
There was some uncovered filler when you wet sanded... Also, to prevent that hard line, roll your tape to form a tube and spray down from it: no hardline, ever. Saves you a ton of time
@@bruhyoubogus36 yes, you create a tube with the tape, something like a cigarette if you want and you spray towards it at 45 degrees. This will result in paint getting partially stopped by the tape but some turbulence behind it will "suck in" some. This will result inn no hard line. Practice on some cardboard, it will make sense quickly
Hi! Great video. How many cans of primer, paint, and clear coat will i need to paint a whole Tesla Model Y fender? I have to replace my front driver-side fender and need to paint the replacement.
A day or so dry-time is fine. Be careful with wet sanding though, we do not recommend using any grit less than 4000. We've developed this kit for polishing: touchupdirect.com/shop/accessories/auto-motorcycle-paint-preparation/polishing-kit/. That sanding pads in there are around 5000 grit.
Have a bright white jeep and it is a pain doing bright white. I’ve done the three coats of primer, waited the time. Then I try to sand it down to get rid of the lines. Re tape. Then do three coats of paint let it dry the allotted time. The I do three coats of clear coat. When I take off the tape I see the very noticeable lines. When attempting to wet sand the paint comes off when attempting to blend the lines. I’m really having issues touching this up
Just bought some spray and a kit form you guys it's a bit to cold to do the repairs on my car ATM I'm worried if I wash the car it's going to install freeze 😅and the paint to because of how cold it is so I'll let u know how it goes once it heats up a bit
I wish there was a way to post a video of the sane stuff I use and it matches same color of my car.with the Starter full kit of the 3 spray can kit was able to paint 08 honda civic si coupe side skirts and a Front bumper lip Nighthawk Black Pearl
For PPF I'd wait about a week. It's mostly cured in 48 hours, but depending on the ambient temperatures the part lives in, it can take longer. So a week should be safe.
Anyone catch how long after the 4 coats of color were applied did Boris say he let the color coat dry for, BEFORE adding the final 2 coats of Clear Coat? I read somewhere that it needs to dry for 3 whole days (?). Can anyone confirm or advise please? Thanks! JimS
The dry time prior to Clear is about an hour. You can find instructions related to whichever Kit you have on our website, or let me know what you purchased and I’ll send you a link. Definitely NOT 3 days.
Thanks TUD! I found it in your blog listings on the websites discussion page. My regimen was three coats of color coat, with 15 to 20 minutes wait time between each one, and then, wait 30 minutes after the third coat, following that, I put on three coats of clear, waiting 30 minutes in between each one, and the recommendation is, let it dry for 48 hours! I had a busy night last night, and all just before the LD weekend. Thank you for the reply!
I used your touch up spray paint and it seem to match nice. Then sprayed the clear coat as directed, 3 to 4 coats. it showed a darker area after getting finished and even doing a bit of wet sanding and polishing , although it seemed to help. Should I do more wet sanding with 2000 grit to remove more clear coat as I think that could be the problem.
Yes, you can continue to wetsand, although be very careful not to sand through the clear. You may consider moving up to 3000 or higher grit if you're just working on a small area. It's less aggressive and therefore there's less chance of sanding through. If the color is a metallic, the wet sanding will have an impact on how it reflects light and can create the darker or lighter appearance you mention.
@@frankfeldt The color itself comes directly from the base coat. But the clearcoat can refract light in such a way that it makes the color appear lighter or darker, although the actual color of the clear isn't what is causing the lightness or darkness, it is the film build of the clearcoat doing so. Therefore you can only wetsand so far before the appearance of the color will no longer change because at some point the clearcoat is completely smooth and not refracting differently due to film build. If at that point the color still looks lighter/darker, this is known as mottling. Mottling is an effect that is due to uneven base coat application. Again, it's almost exclusively a metallic color issue.
@@Aaaaaakahfj Oh, that's the putty. That helps fill in the scratches and smooth out the surface before Primer. We do not offer one in a larger size yet, but any reputable brand like Bondo will work fine if you have deep scratches or holes to fill.
Hi! I followed all the directions laid out in the video and I just finished the clear-coat step. After removing tape from my car, I found a hard paint line present in the area that I just painted. Will wet sanding it with 2000 remove the hard-line and allow for an even blend after buffing/polishing? Thanks!
Hello! Yes, you can sand with 2000 grit sandpaper to remove the line. However, this is a delicate process. You need to be careful - sanding too much can cause damage. I recommend feeling the line with your hand after two or three swirls of the sandpaper. I hope this helps!
@@TouchUpDirect great, thank you! Last question, do you recommend sanding the whole area that was just painted or only the the area containing the hardline? Thank you again
@@93until11 You're welcome. It's difficult to say without seeing the actual work, but the general rule I use when sanding is to only sand the areas that need it. If there are imperfections with the rest of the paint work, sanding could be the right thing to do. If the rest of the paint job looks great - leave it alone.
I'm not certain which yellow thing you are referring to? The only yellow I was able to notice in the video is the masking tape around the damaged area, is there something else?
This video saved me 600 dollars, I already bought the touch up paint set, excited to tackle this project myself. Thanks I Do have a question: what's the stuff he's using at 1:22 the stuff he used before priming?
it’s a type of bondo it’s just filling in the dents from the crash once applied smooth it out only reason he added that is because if he didn’t add it after the whole process it will show the dent after the painting process
Hi Cassandra. Great question! Adhesion promotor is an optional step that would be done before spraying primer. The adhesion promoter is designed to create a stronger chemical bond to the substrate helping the primer 'stick' better than without it. Our primer has an adhesion promotor built into the formula, but some may still choose to use the additional step. I don't recommend it for most DIY projects. Our longterm testing has proven that our primer has sufficient adhesion for most applications. So, no, we do not sell it. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Yes in this video it's a filler putty. I do not recall what brand we used specifically, but generally any of them are fine. We've since launched our own putty for small nicks and chips, but for this type of repair you need a more robust filler.
We do not have filler available for sale just yet, although we are working on it. I would recommend a simply air-dry, non-catalyzed filler for the job. I wish we could offer you something immediately, but it's not possible just yet.
Thank you for this question!! I thought the kit included "everything" and then I see him using filler? Can we get Bondo from Autozone or some place similar?
Hellow, I recently bought the primer, base coat and clear coat kit to paint my replacement outside passenger side mirror. It's the plastic piece that on the back of my side mirror I'm painting. Do I treat the painting process for painting the outside side mirror the same as in this video??
Yes, the process is the same. If the part you are painting is bare plastic, or has any bare plastic showing through, then you will need primer. If it's not then you can skip primer, scuff the part with 1000 grit sandpaper and go directly to the basecoat application.
I wish this demo wasn’t on a car that’s the same color as primer and scratches, should’ve been on a red or blue. Made my job really hard and I messed it up trying to Follow this.
Hi Collin, I'm sorry to hear your project didn't turn out as planned. I can assure you the color is not the same as the primer. The primer is a very flat gray, while the color in the video is a metallic gray with gold tones in it. That said, we don't always have a lot of choices when it comes to color when doing a video, so we have to work with what we've got. If you'd like some help getting your project to look great again, please reach out to our support staff by emailing help@touchupdirect.com. Thanks!
Yes, you sure can. We are currently limiting Professional Size orders on our website due to some supply chain constraints, but if you email us at help@touchupdirect.com we can take a look at what you need and get you pricing. Thanks!
Just got the kit from touchupdirect....I will repaint (same color) the side mirrors so here is my plan---Clean, sand 500 grit that was provided , prime 3 times, paint and then clear coat...Please advice if i am missing something
Yes, that is the correct process. However, I will add that once the primer is fully dry, you'll want to assess to see how smooth the primer is. It should look next to perfect at this stage. If there are any imperfections, adding more coats on top will not make them go away. You'll want to take the time to "fix" any blemishes BEFORE you apply the color.
That's a tricky one to answer because what is "regular" clearcoat? There are a lot of different types of clearcoat out there in the world, unfortunately we can't test with them all. This is why we really recommend using ours because we know it will be compatible.
Approximatly how long does it take for primer, paint, and clear coat to dry before re-applying. Trying to plan day/days. Need to touch up car hood Thanks
Hello. You want to plan around 10-15 minutes of dry-time between each coat. The only change from that is the final coat of Basecolor, let it dry around 30 minutes.
@@TouchUpDirect I have many small inch to inch and a half spots across my hood (small fruit from trees). I was thinking od working on small patches at a time across the hood thinking that this would give enough time between applications.
@@lindapietras8 Generally that's not a recommended approach. If the entire hood needs to be refinished you'll achieve a much better paint job by painting the entire hood in one project. It would be smoother, applied better, more durable and overall less work by completing in one project.
Hello, I was wondering if you or any viewer would be kind enough to give me wait times after each step is done according to the video? It will be my first time working on my vehicle getting it back to market looking conditions and purchased this product to do the job... Thank you in advanced!
Each product is slightly different, but here's a link to the instructions for all of our products: help.touchupdirect.com/hc/en-us/categories/4406063583643-How-To
I'm using your kit to paint an unpainted fender flare (plastic). How many coats of primer are recommended and, after I lay down the primer, do I need to sand it at all before I go to color?
Great question! We recommend 3 coats of primer. You will only need to sand if you notice the surface has texture or is coarse to the touch. If everything looks perfect after you spray the primer, there's no need to sand. If you do decide to sand, you can use a fine 1500 grit wet sandpaper.
@@TouchUpDirect Thanks TUD. This is more of a share for others than a question for you. So what I did is I light coated the primer I did about four coats of primer lightly laying it on. When I saw that I had full coverage of primer I also noticed it was very toothy. Using a microfiber cloth I began wiping the primer to see if I could get it to lay down some and I was picking up a lot of primer dust. I then wet the microfiber cloth and did sort of a microfiber wet sand to pick up as much of that tooth in dust as I could that helped a bit next I went and did a wet sand on the primer using 1500 grit sandpaper. That got the primer pretty smooth but exposed the Sim thin areas so I applied a final coat and then wet sand that gently with 1500. After that was thoroughly dry I applied the first ultra light coat of color. I applied four light coats of color, allowing it to dry for 20 minutes in between each coat and I noticed that the color code was very textured. Since I only had one can of color I opted not to sand that, cuz I really did not know if that was going to ruin the project or smooth it out I didn't know if I could send it and get away with it so I left it as is. When the color coat was thoroughly dried to the touch I began lightly applying the clear coat. I once again noticed that my light misting of clear coat was leaving a tooth so for the second coat I went quite a bit heavier on it but still found the surface to be toothy. At this point I was pretty sure I done a horrible job and was demoralized as a human being. But there was no way I could turn back at this point in my project so then I just went very heavy with the clear coat. This seems to really help the overall appearance of the job when I was spraying the clear coat it is a very obvious difference between seeing little particles of clear coat on the surface and going heavy and seeing a nice wet line where're I've applied the coat so for coats 3 and 4 I went pretty heavy making sure it was not dripping in anyway but laying a very glossy very wet coat on the surface. Is drastically improve the outcome of the surface and I feel fairly confident that when the clear coat is cured and I polish it this will look very good. I can still see some texture from when the color went on with some tooth but honestly this texture is pretty on par with the texture I see on my camper shell. It's not a factory perfect candy coat but it's pretty darn good and I can live with it for a fender flare. I hope this helps anybody who's at home trying to save a few hundred dollars on body work. One thing I will say is the color aerosol cans have an incredible tip. I don't think I've ever used a spray paint can that offered a more consistent mottling pattern, nice and wide fan pattern too. The color was a joy to lay down I just wish I could have figured out how to lay it down smooth. The clear coat on the other hand seems to have a very narrow spray pattern I don't know why that is but I found myself wishing the clear coat went on with as wide and as even a pattern as the color did.
@@cadefall9204 @@cadefall9204 Thank you for providing the detailed writeup of your experience. I'm sure this will be helpful to others as they tackle their own projects. I also appreciate the honest product feedback - it's truly valuable to us.
What Bondo is the tech using? I just ordered the aerosol kit Platinum (everything kit), but I don't believe it comes with any Bondo. I'm definitely going to need a small amount of Bondo.
We’re working on a small filler applicator but it’s not ready yet. For just a small amount just look for any 1K filler and it’ll work fine, just follow the directions with the product. Most work very well.
Hello, and thanks for this video. I purchased the Red Platinum Aerosol Kit for my Tesla Y, which comes with the base coat and mid-coat, which were not in your video, but applied them in that order. The end result after completing all the steps *exactly* as shown in this video, shows a big square that is distinctly lighter in color than my original paint. In some ways having the chip was better than this square which sticks out now. Is there a way to darken this area slightly to match the surrounding better? (like add another mid-coat on top of this, or is this a bad idea?) thank you
We have a customer service process to address any issues like this. Just contact us @ help@touchupdirect.com and we'll gladly figure out what's going on and get you the color you need.
It's very difficult to say without seeing the damage you are referencing. You can email us at help@touchupdirect.com with a couple photos and we'll make a recommendation.
Thanks, Mitch! You'll want to wait for at least 24hrs before washing or waxing. I recommend washing the vehicle prior to painting that way there's no rush to get it washed after the repair is complete.
Tough question! Typically it's 800-1000 grit, but not knowing your exact situation it's hard to tell. You can email us at help@touchupdirect.com and we can give more specific help. Send some pictures and we'll be able to drill down for you! 😀 Thanks!
If I have minor rust on the area, should the sandpaper provided in the kit be used to remove it or get that removed first before using any items in the TUD kit?
@@TouchUpDirect sorry. I’m a bit confused on the answer. Which would you recommend? Sanding and using compound after the coat dries or wait 2-3 to sand and compound?
@@bradbaxter3343 Oh sorry, I think I misunderstood. Yes, the clear should dry 2-3 days before dwetsanding and polishing. You can polish before that it if you like, but wetsanding is best after the clear is truly 100% dry.
Hi Dakota, Just a heads up - Most pre-primed parts are done with a black primer and really aren't ready for paint. At a minimum, the part will need to be sanded before you spray to get rid of the imperfections, etc. I recommend sanding the area, then spraying it with a coat of medium gray primer as the black may affect the color match. So for your project, I recommend getting primer, color, and clear coat. You don't have to wet sand at the end if you are happy with the way the clear coat looks. If the finish is at all rough, feel free to hit it with some 2000 grit sandpaper and then polish. Let me know if you have any other questions! Thanks,
@@jameslane5712 Wait for about 10-15 mins, as long as the coats are applied lightly (which they should). A great way to check is by touching the surface with the backside of your hand. If it feels tacky wait.
If you're not down to bare plastic or metal, you do not need primer. Primer is only required for a bare substrate of if you want to build up the damaged area to level it out. Usually for stone chips, the color and clear like you have is what is needed.
I bought the everytbing kit for my wrx in ice silver metallic, and the color does not match at all. I followed all the steps to the t, and the paint is much darker than my original paint. Now what am I supposed to do?
Ok, please send us an email to help@touchupdirect.com. Include a few pictures please. We’ll figure out what’s going on and get the issue resolved for you quickly.
So I feel like I will need to put some filler before priming as well. Do you think I need to use wax and grease remover wipe right before I put the primer, or should I use it before the filler?....also what sandpaper did you use to even it out after you put the filler?...to get the right shape...before you put the primer...Also, which sandpaper did you use to get rid of the lines after you put the primer?
The wax and grease remover should be used before you apply filler. I believe Boris sanded the filler with 500 grit, then finished with 1500 just to make sure no lines were showing. I hope this helps!
We used the ISOPON Scratch and Stone Chip Filler. You can find it on our website here: touchupdirect.com/shop/accessories/auto-motorcycle-body-filler/isopon-scratch-filler/
I bought your aerosol platinum kit, which does not have the putty/filler to use on my bumper. Is it not needed to put filler before primer? Can this part be skipped?
The answer really depends on what your goal is. If a cover-up is ok, then a brush can take care of that. If you are trying to create a factory finish and make the damage disappear, you will need to use an aerosol can. It most cases, you'll need sand and fill the damage, but that will depend on the severity of the scrape. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Hello JoJo, I apologize for the late reply. In order for me to answer this question, I'll need to know more about the project. What vehicle did you order fenders for? Are these fender flairs or just trim? I realize you may have figured this out already, but if not please let us know by emailing help@touchupdirect.com
JoJoThe Official I’m planning to paint my own fender too when i get my TUD order. How was your painting experience if i may ask? I have no experience in painting or whatsoever, and wanted to save some money thats why i wanna do it myself.
Hello Jewell! For wet-sanding, you can simply keep a small bucket of water for cleaning and rewetting the sandpaper. Most hoods will need at least three cans of color to get full coverage. If you attempt to paint your hood with only one aerosol, the color will not match because the paint will be spread too thin. The rest of the kit accessories will be enough, so you can order one Platinum kit, then order the extra cans of paint and clear coat separately. If you have more questions about coverage, I recommend reaching out to our support team by emailing help@touchupdirect.com. Thanks!
Aloha!! I just ordered a FENDER for my nissan sentra s 2015 Gun Metallic. MY QUESTION is how much paint would i need to paint the fender myself? Do i need to bring it to a professional paint job shop? I live in an island where theres no paint shop available and shipping cost is way too expensive. Please help. Thank you
Should i use -Aerosol Essential Kit- or -Aerosol Preferred Kit- for a bare metal Fender part that i ordered for my car????. I need to have it painted before i install it and replace the damaged fender. Please help.
What makes your paint better than duplicolor which is cheaper than your paint?Im interested in buying but trying to see what separates your product from others
That’s an easy one! Our paint is of the same exact quality of the finest auto body repair shops. If you took your car to a reputable body shop and they made a repair (say for something larger than you could ever use a touch up for) you would leave with factory guarantee and warranty. The paint we offer in every one of our sizes is of exactly the same quality. Also, this is all we do. Touch up paint. That’s it. We don’t make tint for tail lights, spray-on chrome, bed liner, or any of these other things. We’re 100% focused on one thing, touch up paint. I’m not going to say Duplicolor is a bad product or anything of the sort. But I know what we do, nobody does it better and we guarantee it. 🙂
@@TouchUpDirect ordered from you today the taffeta white Honda paint kit and also ordered spray nozzle.If I receive your product in a timely manner and it works well I will order from you again for other vehicles
One aerosol can might not cover an entire fender. In most cases, it will take two cans for full coverage. If you have an unusually large vehicle, you may need three.
@@supnacho7454 Yes, you're able to order a single can from our site. Once you've selected the color you'll be presented with kit options - simply select the no kit option and proceed to checkout. I do recommend 2 cans of color, reds tend to take a bit more for full coverage. Thanks!
I hope someone replies. I sent an email and I haven’t heard back. So, I have a small area, the size of a quarter on my hood. Using the method in the video, Can your 1k or 2k clear feather out to blend into the surrounding factory clear, or would I have to repaint the whole hood? I’ve repainted guitars with lacquers, lacquers melt into each other. I would assume 1k and 2k don’t with factory finishes. I have a Toyota Corolla. Any help would be appreciated. My questions are: Will either of your clears “melt” into the original finish? And If not, and I feather it. Will the clear coat sprayed on areas that are not primed and color coated (factory finish areas) eventually peel?
Hello! Thanks for asking, sorry you didn't get an answer prior. Ok, so the short answer is, no, it will not melt into the current paint on the vehicle. I do understand what you're asking though, you want the paint to blend. Any place you apply paint or clear, you will need to scuff with 800-1000 grit. It's not easy to do what you're describing and not have hard paint lines and simultaneously have good adhesion, scuffing will address the adhesion. To avoid the hard paint lines I'd use the tape roll over method shown in this video around the 15 minute mark: ua-cam.com/video/J8XETjo4GiQ/v-deo.html
@@TouchUpDirect Hopefully you’ll reply to this as well. I see a lot of people sand into the primer. Is that on purpose? So, that the layers of primer, color and clear coat feather out to level with the surrounding clear? I have two rock chips in the center of a panel. I’m fairly confident I can blend the clear with a solvent blender. Extra work, but whatever. My concern is the clear in that area being higher than the rest of the panel. Lacquer melts into itself, so I know you can just block sand. I just ordered your putty, primer and color aerosol cans. Should I just fill the holes, sand it level as possible, prime and feather out the clear? Or should I start with a deep sanding area and build up to level with the putty, primer and color? I have experience with lacquers.. but they’re more forgiving. Hope I didn’t convolute my questions. Thank you!
@@AMGL1989 Ok, there's a lot to cover here...let's try to work through the questions. I took a look at your order and do not see Clearcoat, that leaves me assuming you already have some of some type. Check for compatibility prior to actually doing the paint work. Regarding the rest, here is what we recommend. Any place that needs putty, prep sand with 400 first, clean, apply the putty then sand with 800. Prep and prime whatever area needs to be primed, again wetsand with 800 to smooth out the primer. Apply color coats as needed (usually 3-4 coats). Do NOT do any wetsanding. Apply 3 coats of clear. I highly recommend watching around the 15 minute mark of this video to help learn how to eliminate hard paint lines: ua-cam.com/video/J8XETjo4GiQ/v-deo.html I hope that answers your questions!
@@TouchUpDirect damn, you reply via UA-cam pretty efficiently, thank you. I started to get cold feet so I’ve been trying to cancel my order. Reason being, I’ve read a lot of reviews about the color not matching. I also take into consideration that some of these people didn’t follow instructions or do any research. Worst case scenario, with your color match guarantee.. are there refunds like with Scratcher Happen?
@@AMGL1989 LOL, no joke, Scratches Happen wouldn't even have happened as a company if it wasn't for us! Yeah, we've got you covered...we were the first company with a Color Match Guarantee and we stand behind it 100%. I just checked and there are some variants on 1K3 so play it safe and check your color before proceeding with the project. Do the test card, with Clearcoat. Inspect it closely to make sure it looks accurate. If not, hit us up at help@touchupdirect.com and we'll get it sorted. It's a pretty popular color for us, I don't anticipate any issues.
Isocyanates are typically found in polyurethane paints - we use waterborne, so you wont find them in ours. You can find the SDS for our products on our Help Desk if you'd like more information on what is used in our products. This doesn't mean that you shouldn't protect yourself while spraying. Always wear a respirator and be sure to spray in a well-ventilated area.
@@TouchUpDirect thank you! The matte clear coat bottle in the kit is labeled as urethane though; are they not used in this either? Asking as I just learned about these and don't want to use isos even in my open garage. I'd like to order more from you guys, but just wanted to be sure first.
Hi Eduardo! For this repair we used the TouchUpDirect Wax and Grease Remover Wipe - touchupdirect.com/shop/accessories/wax-and-grease-remover-handy-wipe/ I use this for every touch up project to clear the surface of any contaminants. I believe Boris used this after he sanded the damage.
@@aaronpapio1258 The damage Boris was repairing was very deep and we needed some filler before we primed. Here's a link to what we used. touchupdirect.com/shop/accessories/scratch-filler/
No, sanding is not a 'required' step. You will only need to sand if the painted area is rough or uneven. 500 could be too rough for some applications as well. You may want to use 1500 or 2000 grit if you are working with clear coat for example.
I applied touch up paint to my vehicle 4 days ago and it came out fine, now I noticed my car is getting a bit dusty and wanted to know if it's okay to spray it down with a pressure washer? I'm not doing a full wash with soap just a quick spray down with just water, will this affect my paint on the area I touched up? And also would it be ok to dry the area with a microfiber towel or let it air dry after spraying it down? I don't want to damage the paint.
I'm glad to hear your project turned out well! As long as the clear coat has been given at least 24 hours to dry, it's ok to wash it. It sounds like you've waited plenty long. Let us know if you have any other questions.
quick question, the filler you re applying at 1:22, does that come with kit you order from touch up, or is that something i have to order separately (i just ordered the 79 dollar kit for my car), if not , what kind is it, and where can i find, also when you were done applying the filler did you sanded as well with a wet 500 grit? thanks
Hello! That particular filler we used was a product we were previously selling and is a fine product. But we’ve recently developed our own filler that’s packaged in a more DIY friendly size and is a great product. But it won’t be ready to release for a couple weeks yet. Do you need a recommendation in the meantime if you have a project you need to wrap up soon?
@@frrus7327 Ok, you can use Kombi putty or a 1K Bondo putty for really small nicks or scratches. The only issue is it’s not sold in small amounts so you’ll end up buying quite a large tube. If you like, you can email me at uri@touchupdirect.com and I can see if we have any preproduction samples of our new product around.
I have a blue Honda Civic and i plan on spray painting the whole front and roof , the paint is chipped BADLY like the whole roof is gone and the front too and a bit on the sides😭 I just ordered 2 12oz aerosol spray cans do you think that’ll be enough?
Hi Jealy! It doesn't sound like that's not going to be enough to cover completely. I recommend reaching out to our support team - they can better assist you in this case. From my experience, you're going to need about 6 cans of the base color if the entire area needs to be re-sprayed. You can contact our support staff by following this link: touchupdirect.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new Thanks!
Hi Tanya! We used the Isopon Stone and Rock Chip Filler for the deep scratches. It can be found on our website here touchupdirect.com/shop/accessories/filler/isopon-scratch-filler/ It's technically not designed for damage this large, but we've found it to be a very versatile filler that can handle it without issue. Let us know if you have any other questions.
I was all excited to receive my order in the mail until I saw the damage box at my doorstep. When I open the box the Aerosol paint can had been depressed... So much for my plans on fixing the scratchs on my vehicle....
Oh no, I’m sorry to hear that! Did you contact our customer service, we’ll be glad to remedy this! I don’t have any way to look your order up via UA-cam, so please email us at help@touchupdirect.com.
Do you know the difference between 400, 1200, and 2000? Bc that's what I got and only 500 is mentioned in the video. Also, the 400 cut given was cut so it's hard to determine if it's 400 or 4000. Help lol
400 and 500 can be used interchangeably with no problem. You can physically feel the difference between the sandpapers between 400, 1200, and 2000. The 400 will feel the roughest (least smooth), while the 2000 will feel the smoothest or least rough.
@@epic1761 The 400-500 is really for prep before any paint or primer is applied. The 1200 is good for smoothing out the putty and/or primer prior to painting. The 2000, frankly, is probably the least useful in the pack unless you plan on doing some wetsanding to the final finish. If that's the case, the 2000 is fine for wetsanding, but you'll need a buffer to bring the gloss back. We are in the middle of re-working our sandpaper offerings to better suit most people's projects.
Hi! At what stage would i want to use the wax/grease remover? For full context I plan on using Isopon filler before I prime. Damaged area is similar bumper scuff to the one shown here. Also curious if you have any tips for applying the filler? What grade sandpaper should i use after applying filler?
I did the same thing with mine. Clean the surface with the grease remover before you put the filler. Once the filler dries out, use the 500 grit sand paper to begin with to make sure it’s somewhat clean and even, then use 1500 grit sand paper to make it smooth. Clean with paper towel. Then use tac cloth before primer. Hope this helps
In this case we used a 2-part Bondo filler. We also have available a 1-part filler for very small nicks and scratches: touchupdirect.com/touchupdirect-scratch-and-chip-putty-automotive-repair-filler/
Sorry for the delay, I missed this question! No, the putty does not come with the kit...yet. We are working to develop a touch up appropriate sized putty so that we can offer it soon. In the meantime you can use a 1K spot putty if you're working on a job currently.
Yes, I would definitely sand it. Your primer coat should be very smooth to the touch when dry. Any imperfections in the primer will likely show up in the preceding coats of paint!
We definitely blended the paint. The damage was to the bumper's bottom portion, and we sprayed a few inches past that. The line you are seeing is the body line in the bumper. This curve is casting a shadow, making the upper area look darker. This color matched perfectly.
It was because after the primer was applied he wanted to wet sand it. And the wet sanding ruins the tape. So it’s better to remove the tape, wetsand, then retape and proceed with painting.
@@StilmanIIo5 We do not have the putty available just yet. It will probably be another couple of months until it is. But any type of spot putty or bondo would work fine.
@@TouchUpDirect I noticed this putty as well which is not included in your kit. Do you (or anyone else) have a recommendation on a putty to use to fill in gashes that I can purchase, in the meantime? Thanks
@@MrPlasmo You can use a 1k or 1-part Bondo spot putty, that will work fine.We're in the process of making a small tube of spot putty more appropriate for touch up sizes, but won't have it available for at least a month or so yet.
@@isidrobarajasoficial So that's a big wing! I recommend a minimum of 3 aerosol cans, but due to the complexity of the part, I would get 4 to be safe. You're likely to get a lot of overspray when painting the lip and edges. Painting the underside will pose a challenge if it's fixed to the vehicle (just something to keep in mind). Ideally, the part would be mobile so you could rotate as needed to maximize coverage.
Nice Video. I ordered your Aersol Kit. How come the clear coat doesn't have a Hardener in it? Also, how long should you wait from going to Paint to Clear and each layer of clear after? In other videos I see people going from wet paint right to clear as its "bonds better". Then 5-10 minutes between each clear coat pass. What time interval should I use on your kit
Hi Kris, Our standard clear coat doesn't have a hardener for two main reasons. One: To keep the cost down. Two: Most DIY repairs don't need a catalyzed clear coat. While nothing can replace a good 2k clear, it's not always required. We do offer a 2K clear coat which can be found here: touchupdirect.com/shop/accessories/ The recommended dry times between coats is 5-10 minutes. You don't want to apply clear to wet paint. Here's a helpful article on how to use our aerosol paints. touchupdirect.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360015413753-Aerosol-Application
@@CopperStateCorals This all depends on what you're after. There's no question that a 2K clear will get you closer to the professional spray gun type finish, and that it will protect better in the long run. That said, our customers have been using 1k on hoods and body panels for years without issue. The downside to 2k is the price and the short pot life. Once that can has been "activated" you have a small window of time to use it. The 1k you can place on the shelf and use again down the road. If you're ok with spending more for the 2k then I say go for it! I hope this helps.
Of course, we are going to recommend the TouchUpDirect brand primer, which can be found here: touchupdirect.com/shop/accessories/ But any quality 1or 2K primer should work.
I bought the paint/ clear kit which is $49. So technically I payed $16 for a rustoleum finish clear coat!!! I should have just upgraded. I wish touch up direct would input more information on their products. I bought 8 kits.
@@vwbeetle1954 I'm sorry to hear that you're not getting great results with the clear. I can assure you that our clear coat is glossy (you can see in this video). 2K clear will be superior, but it's quite a bit more expensive. Have you tried reaching out to our support team to troubleshoot the issue? I'm sure they can provide expert advise and help get your project back on track. They can be reached by emailing help@touchupdirect.com or by calling 855-6008160.
I’m so glad I found this product. My local auto shops are quoting $400 - 1000 to paint a 1.5 foot bumper corner. There is no way in hell it costs that much to fix a pre-primed and sanded auto part. Can’t wait to use this!
Did you get good result? I didn't
I would love to be an apprentice painter working with Boris. He is a natural teacher and craftsman and gentleman. Nice video.
Yes, Boris is and he is also very talented. You can check out more of his work on his website www.calcycledesign.com
My wife has a 2013 Volkswagen Tiguan. There were scratches on the passenger side from a recent trip to the airport. I was able to buff some out, but one scratch was deep and I over-buffed it, removing the paint. I ordered the touch up spray6 can kit matching the color from the factory. It was a perfect match and the car looks great. Never did that before but the videos showed how easy it was.
I ordered 2014 BMW S1000R Red racing. It's light thin and runs. So patience is key and ITS 100% MATCH. Amazing quality.
There was some uncovered filler when you wet sanded... Also, to prevent that hard line, roll your tape to form a tube and spray down from it: no hardline, ever. Saves you a ton of time
I'm a little slow lol. So basically fold the tape and apply it and spray downward of the fold?
@@bruhyoubogus36 yes, you create a tube with the tape, something like a cigarette if you want and you spray towards it at 45 degrees. This will result in paint getting partially stopped by the tape but some turbulence behind it will "suck in" some. This will result inn no hard line. Practice on some cardboard, it will make sense quickly
@@kailuafrog Awesome appreciate it
So glad I read this comment thanks
What grit do I use to wet sand primer coat before color coat?
Hi! Great video. How many cans of primer, paint, and clear coat will i need to paint a whole Tesla Model Y fender? I have to replace my front driver-side fender and need to paint the replacement.
I would think 2 of each Color and Clear will do it. Probably 1 can of Primer would actually be enough, it covers and builds quickly.
Painting rear panel from car accident, Looks good so far! How long to wait to wet sand? Mazda RX8 velocity mica red
A day or so dry-time is fine. Be careful with wet sanding though, we do not recommend using any grit less than 4000. We've developed this kit for polishing: touchupdirect.com/shop/accessories/auto-motorcycle-paint-preparation/polishing-kit/. That sanding pads in there are around 5000 grit.
Have a bright white jeep and it is a pain doing bright white. I’ve done the three coats of primer, waited the time. Then I try to sand it down to get rid of the lines. Re tape. Then do three coats of paint let it dry the allotted time. The I do three coats of clear coat. When I take off the tape I see the very noticeable lines. When attempting to wet sand the paint comes off when attempting to blend the lines. I’m really having issues touching this up
Just bought some spray and a kit form you guys it's a bit to cold to do the repairs on my car ATM I'm worried if I wash the car it's going to install freeze 😅and the paint to because of how cold it is so I'll let u know how it goes once it heats up a bit
Thanks Boris! Im half way through the process and it already looks great!
am about to do a touch up paint on my car, thank you for posting this video
Thank God bc I was stuck trying to figure out how to bring out the gloss on the clear coat. Mine was all f'ed up😂
that was really a good video I didn't know you could touch up small areas with clear coat, great.
I wish there was a way to post a video of the sane stuff I use and it matches same color of my car.with the Starter full kit of the 3 spray can kit was able to paint 08 honda civic si coupe side skirts and a Front bumper lip Nighthawk Black Pearl
You bought the kit with the primer, clearcoat, and water based clearcoat? Was one can of each enough to finish the job?
what's the time to fully cure after paint and clear is on ?
I need to know to not add PPF too soon on top of the painted area
For PPF I'd wait about a week. It's mostly cured in 48 hours, but depending on the ambient temperatures the part lives in, it can take longer. So a week should be safe.
Anyone catch how long after the 4 coats of color were applied did Boris say he let the color coat dry for, BEFORE adding the final 2 coats of Clear Coat? I read somewhere that it needs to dry for 3 whole days (?). Can anyone confirm or advise please? Thanks! JimS
The dry time prior to Clear is about an hour. You can find instructions related to whichever Kit you have on our website, or let me know what you purchased and I’ll send you a link.
Definitely NOT 3 days.
Thanks TUD! I found it in your blog listings on the websites discussion page. My regimen was three coats of color coat, with 15 to 20 minutes wait time between each one, and then, wait 30 minutes after the third coat, following that, I put on three coats of clear, waiting 30 minutes in between each one, and the recommendation is, let it dry for 48 hours! I had a busy night last night, and all just before the LD weekend. Thank you for the reply!
Can I use this spray can product for my bmw m5 calipers? If so how much spray cans do I need to buy for all 4 brakes
It isn't high heat paint.
Wow! Impressive. Looks brand new!
In Amazon plantinum pack does it also includes sand paper?
Yep, it sure does.
How long does the clear take to dry approximately?
Between coats around 15-30 minutes, depending on conditions. For final drying we recommend 2 days to be sure it's fully cured.
I used your touch up spray paint and it seem to match nice. Then sprayed the clear coat as directed, 3 to 4 coats. it showed a darker area after getting finished and even doing a bit of wet sanding and polishing , although it seemed to help. Should I do more wet sanding with 2000 grit to remove more clear coat as I think that could be the problem.
Yes, you can continue to wetsand, although be very careful not to sand through the clear. You may consider moving up to 3000 or higher grit if you're just working on a small area. It's less aggressive and therefore there's less chance of sanding through. If the color is a metallic, the wet sanding will have an impact on how it reflects light and can create the darker or lighter appearance you mention.
@@TouchUpDirect Thank you for your suggestion Yes it is Metallic , but I thought it was the clear. Does that make sense?
Thank You!
@@frankfeldt The color itself comes directly from the base coat. But the clearcoat can refract light in such a way that it makes the color appear lighter or darker, although the actual color of the clear isn't what is causing the lightness or darkness, it is the film build of the clearcoat doing so. Therefore you can only wetsand so far before the appearance of the color will no longer change because at some point the clearcoat is completely smooth and not refracting differently due to film build. If at that point the color still looks lighter/darker, this is known as mottling. Mottling is an effect that is due to uneven base coat application. Again, it's almost exclusively a metallic color issue.
I am trying to understand what exactly is the brown thing when you said “ prep the surface”
Hmmm...I'm not exactly sure what you mean...can you give me a timestamp and I'll take a look and respond?
@@TouchUpDirect at 1:23 minutes
@@Aaaaaakahfj Oh, that's the putty. That helps fill in the scratches and smooth out the surface before Primer. We do not offer one in a larger size yet, but any reputable brand like Bondo will work fine if you have deep scratches or holes to fill.
@@TouchUpDirect does it come with platinum package?
@@Aaaaaakahfj No, we do not offer it in larger sizes. Only a small tube that is not appropriate for this size job.
How many cans would you recommend for a whole hood 😭 I’m looking into buying the kit but I’m unsure how many cans will be needed
Depending on the vehicle, it's usually 2-3 cans required.
how much time to wait between applying paint coats?
About 10 minutes. More if it’s cold or damp out.
He said 10-15 mins between coats.
Hi! I followed all the directions laid out in the video and I just finished the clear-coat step. After removing tape from my car, I found a hard paint line present in the area that I just painted. Will wet sanding it with 2000 remove the hard-line and allow for an even blend after buffing/polishing? Thanks!
Hello! Yes, you can sand with 2000 grit sandpaper to remove the line. However, this is a delicate process. You need to be careful - sanding too much can cause damage. I recommend feeling the line with your hand after two or three swirls of the sandpaper. I hope this helps!
@@TouchUpDirect great, thank you! Last question, do you recommend sanding the whole area that was just painted or only the the area containing the hardline? Thank you again
@@93until11 You're welcome. It's difficult to say without seeing the actual work, but the general rule I use when sanding is to only sand the areas that need it. If there are imperfections with the rest of the paint work, sanding could be the right thing to do. If the rest of the paint job looks great - leave it alone.
@TouchUpDirect how long to let paint color to dry before Clearcoat??
@@AnthonyW1992 is it 30 mins? And also, did you sand between primer and color coat?
What is the yellow thing you use to prep it- you didn’t tell.
I'm not certain which yellow thing you are referring to? The only yellow I was able to notice in the video is the masking tape around the damaged area, is there something else?
I believe it's their Scratch & Chip putty, but I could be wrong. I was wondering the same thing.
If someone posts a time-stamp, we can tell you exactly what's in the frame.
@@TouchUpDirect 1:21 is what I think they are asking about. It seems to be the putty
This video saved me 600 dollars, I already bought the touch up paint set, excited to tackle this project myself. Thanks
I Do have a question: what's the stuff he's using at 1:22 the stuff he used before priming?
it’s a type of bondo it’s just filling in the dents from the crash once applied smooth it out only reason he added that is because if he didn’t add it after the whole process it will show the dent after the painting process
@diegovarela975 yeah I ended just paying the 600 dollars for new paint job lol
Does touchupdirect sell a adhesion promotor? I only see a primer. What is the difference between the two and do i need both?
Hi Cassandra. Great question! Adhesion promotor is an optional step that would be done before spraying primer. The adhesion promoter is designed to create a stronger chemical bond to the substrate helping the primer 'stick' better than without it. Our primer has an adhesion promotor built into the formula, but some may still choose to use the additional step. I don't recommend it for most DIY projects. Our longterm testing has proven that our primer has sufficient adhesion for most applications. So, no, we do not sell it. Let me know if you have any other questions.
What is that brown stuff you on in video. Us that filler? There’s no mention of it in video??
Yes in this video it's a filler putty. I do not recall what brand we used specifically, but generally any of them are fine. We've since launched our own putty for small nicks and chips, but for this type of repair you need a more robust filler.
How long should this process take from start to finish? Start including the putty end with clear coat.
It's a few hour process, usually 2-3 depending on the size of the project. If you have a Tricoat it adds time as well.
1:20 What did you use here? Filler? Is it included with platinum aerosol kit?
We do not have filler available for sale just yet, although we are working on it. I would recommend a simply air-dry, non-catalyzed filler for the job. I wish we could offer you something immediately, but it's not possible just yet.
@@TouchUpDirect any recommendation?
@@sayemkhan6163 Bondo makes one, that's probably the most popular. Unfortunately the size is rather large, hence the reason we're developing our own.
Thank you for this question!! I thought the kit included "everything" and then I see him using filler? Can we get Bondo from Autozone or some place similar?
Hellow, I recently bought the primer, base coat and clear coat kit to paint my replacement outside passenger side mirror. It's the plastic piece that on the back of my side mirror I'm painting. Do I treat the painting process for painting the outside side mirror the same as in this video??
Yes, the process is the same. If the part you are painting is bare plastic, or has any bare plastic showing through, then you will need primer. If it's not then you can skip primer, scuff the part with 1000 grit sandpaper and go directly to the basecoat application.
I wish this demo wasn’t on a car that’s the same color as primer and scratches, should’ve been on a red or blue. Made my job really hard and I messed it up trying to Follow this.
Hi Collin, I'm sorry to hear your project didn't turn out as planned. I can assure you the color is not the same as the primer. The primer is a very flat gray, while the color in the video is a metallic gray with gold tones in it. That said, we don't always have a lot of choices when it comes to color when doing a video, so we have to work with what we've got.
If you'd like some help getting your project to look great again, please reach out to our support staff by emailing help@touchupdirect.com. Thanks!
Agreed. My car is white and it took about 6 coats of paint to color the primer.
Can I purchase a quart or more to spray through a hvlp sprayer?
Yes, you sure can. We are currently limiting Professional Size orders on our website due to some supply chain constraints, but if you email us at help@touchupdirect.com we can take a look at what you need and get you pricing. Thanks!
Is it possible to get a bundle with 2k clear instead, or get the bundle with only primer and the basecoat?
Hello. No, we do not have the ability on our website to bundle it that way, although I wish we did. It would have to be assembled ala cart.
Just got the kit from touchupdirect....I will repaint (same color) the side mirrors so here is my plan---Clean, sand 500 grit that was provided , prime 3 times, paint and then clear coat...Please advice if i am missing something
Yes, that is the correct process. However, I will add that once the primer is fully dry, you'll want to assess to see how smooth the primer is. It should look next to perfect at this stage. If there are any imperfections, adding more coats on top will not make them go away. You'll want to take the time to "fix" any blemishes BEFORE you apply the color.
can I use regular clear coat on touchupdirect spray paint?
That's a tricky one to answer because what is "regular" clearcoat? There are a lot of different types of clearcoat out there in the world, unfortunately we can't test with them all. This is why we really recommend using ours because we know it will be compatible.
@@TouchUpDirect I meant enamel based clear coat. tried it and it does work.
Approximatly how long does it take for primer, paint, and clear coat to dry before re-applying. Trying to plan day/days. Need to touch up car hood Thanks
Hello. You want to plan around 10-15 minutes of dry-time between each coat. The only change from that is the final coat of Basecolor, let it dry around 30 minutes.
@@TouchUpDirect I have many small inch to inch and a half spots across my hood (small fruit from trees). I was thinking od working on small patches at a time across the hood thinking that this would give enough time between applications.
@@lindapietras8 Generally that's not a recommended approach. If the entire hood needs to be refinished you'll achieve a much better paint job by painting the entire hood in one project. It would be smoother, applied better, more durable and overall less work by completing in one project.
Hello, I was wondering if you or any viewer would be kind enough to give me wait times after each step is done according to the video? It will be my first time working on my vehicle getting it back to market looking conditions and purchased this product to do the job... Thank you in advanced!
Each product is slightly different, but here's a link to the instructions for all of our products: help.touchupdirect.com/hc/en-us/categories/4406063583643-How-To
My kia has paint chips all over the place but there are 3 ares i want to take care of specifically.......in reality the whole car needs to be done
Cool video. Could have done without the Whistling
I like the whistling. It gave a 'this is easy, you got it' vibe. 🎶
I'm using your kit to paint an unpainted fender flare (plastic). How many coats of primer are recommended and, after I lay down the primer, do I need to sand it at all before I go to color?
Great question! We recommend 3 coats of primer. You will only need to sand if you notice the surface has texture or is coarse to the touch. If everything looks perfect after you spray the primer, there's no need to sand. If you do decide to sand, you can use a fine 1500 grit wet sandpaper.
@@TouchUpDirect Thanks TUD. This is more of a share for others than a question for you. So what I did is I light coated the primer I did about four coats of primer lightly laying it on. When I saw that I had full coverage of primer I also noticed it was very toothy. Using a microfiber cloth I began wiping the primer to see if I could get it to lay down some and I was picking up a lot of primer dust. I then wet the microfiber cloth and did sort of a microfiber wet sand to pick up as much of that tooth in dust as I could that helped a bit next I went and did a wet sand on the primer using 1500 grit sandpaper. That got the primer pretty smooth but exposed the Sim thin areas so I applied a final coat and then wet sand that gently with 1500. After that was thoroughly dry I applied the first ultra light coat of color. I applied four light coats of color, allowing it to dry for 20 minutes in between each coat and I noticed that the color code was very textured. Since I only had one can of color I opted not to sand that, cuz I really did not know if that was going to ruin the project or smooth it out I didn't know if I could send it and get away with it so I left it as is. When the color coat was thoroughly dried to the touch I began lightly applying the clear coat. I once again noticed that my light misting of clear coat was leaving a tooth so for the second coat I went quite a bit heavier on it but still found the surface to be toothy. At this point I was pretty sure I done a horrible job and was demoralized as a human being. But there was no way I could turn back at this point in my project so then I just went very heavy with the clear coat. This seems to really help the overall appearance of the job when I was spraying the clear coat it is a very obvious difference between seeing little particles of clear coat on the surface and going heavy and seeing a nice wet line where're I've applied the coat so for coats 3 and 4 I went pretty heavy making sure it was not dripping in anyway but laying a very glossy very wet coat on the surface. Is drastically improve the outcome of the surface and I feel fairly confident that when the clear coat is cured and I polish it this will look very good. I can still see some texture from when the color went on with some tooth but honestly this texture is pretty on par with the texture I see on my camper shell. It's not a factory perfect candy coat but it's pretty darn good and I can live with it for a fender flare. I hope this helps anybody who's at home trying to save a few hundred dollars on body work. One thing I will say is the color aerosol cans have an incredible tip. I don't think I've ever used a spray paint can that offered a more consistent mottling pattern, nice and wide fan pattern too. The color was a joy to lay down I just wish I could have figured out how to lay it down smooth. The clear coat on the other hand seems to have a very narrow spray pattern I don't know why that is but I found myself wishing the clear coat went on with as wide and as even a pattern as the color did.
@@cadefall9204 @@cadefall9204 Thank you for providing the detailed writeup of your experience. I'm sure this will be helpful to others as they tackle their own projects. I also appreciate the honest product feedback - it's truly valuable to us.
My pleasure. Overall I'm very impressed with the quality of your products. Will buy again.
What Bondo is the tech using? I just ordered the aerosol kit Platinum (everything kit), but I don't believe it comes with any Bondo. I'm definitely going to need a small amount of Bondo.
We’re working on a small filler applicator but it’s not ready yet. For just a small amount just look for any 1K filler and it’ll work fine, just follow the directions with the product. Most work very well.
Hello, and thanks for this video.
I purchased the Red Platinum Aerosol Kit for my Tesla Y, which comes with the base coat and mid-coat, which were not in your video, but applied them in that order.
The end result after completing all the steps *exactly* as shown in this video, shows a big square that is distinctly lighter in color than my original paint. In some ways having the chip was better than this square which sticks out now.
Is there a way to darken this area slightly to match the surrounding better? (like add another mid-coat on top of this, or is this a bad idea?) thank you
We have a customer service process to address any issues like this. Just contact us @ help@touchupdirect.com and we'll gladly figure out what's going on and get you the color you need.
what if its in a spot on a harley gas tank not by a corner etc. Do you just tape all around the damaged area and perform same procedure??
It's very difficult to say without seeing the damage you are referencing. You can email us at help@touchupdirect.com with a couple photos and we'll make a recommendation.
Great video! How long after we polish may we wash the vehicle?
Thanks, Mitch! You'll want to wait for at least 24hrs before washing or waxing. I recommend washing the vehicle prior to painting that way there's no rush to get it washed after the repair is complete.
I just bought some paint form you guys for my white kia. What sand paper do I use to sand and feather the paint?
Tough question! Typically it's 800-1000 grit, but not knowing your exact situation it's hard to tell. You can email us at help@touchupdirect.com and we can give more specific help. Send some pictures and we'll be able to drill down for you! 😀 Thanks!
If I have minor rust on the area, should the sandpaper provided in the kit be used to remove it or get that removed first before using any items in the TUD kit?
Yep, the 400 or 500 grit sandpaper included in the kit will work fine for that!
@@TouchUpDirect thank you so much for responding, means alot!
@@epic1761 no trouble at all! Thanks for your business, that’s what means a lot!
Do you wet sand using 2000 and use compound after the clear coat dries or after 2-3 days?
You can, yes.
@@TouchUpDirect sorry. I’m a bit confused on the answer. Which would you recommend? Sanding and using compound after the coat dries or wait 2-3 to sand and compound?
@@bradbaxter3343 Oh sorry, I think I misunderstood. Yes, the clear should dry 2-3 days before dwetsanding and polishing. You can polish before that it if you like, but wetsanding is best after the clear is truly 100% dry.
Hi, just ordered my kit. how long do you have to wait for the primer to dry before sanding it to get rid of the line?
The primer should be dry enough to sand within around 30 minutes.
If I’m intending on buying a pre-primed front bumper and buy y’all’s paint/clear coat, Do I have to wet sand it afterward or should it match?
Hi Dakota,
Just a heads up - Most pre-primed parts are done with a black primer and really aren't ready for paint. At a minimum, the part will need to be sanded before you spray to get rid of the imperfections, etc. I recommend sanding the area, then spraying it with a coat of medium gray primer as the black may affect the color match. So for your project, I recommend getting primer, color, and clear coat. You don't have to wet sand at the end if you are happy with the way the clear coat looks. If the finish is at all rough, feel free to hit it with some 2000 grit sandpaper and then polish. Let me know if you have any other questions!
Thanks,
How long do I wait for my last coat of paint to dry before starting the clear coat process? Also, how long do I wait between clear coat applications?
Actually, I would like to know the recommended amount of time to wait between every application/procedure. Thanks!
@@jameslane5712 Wait for about 10-15 mins, as long as the coats are applied lightly (which they should). A great way to check is by touching the surface with the backside of your hand. If it feels tacky wait.
Do I need primer if I'm just fixing paint chips from rocks on my front bumper? I only got the paint and clear coat.
If you're not down to bare plastic or metal, you do not need primer. Primer is only required for a bare substrate of if you want to build up the damaged area to level it out. Usually for stone chips, the color and clear like you have is what is needed.
I bought the everytbing kit for my wrx in ice silver metallic, and the color does not match at all. I followed all the steps to the t, and the paint is much darker than my original paint. Now what am I supposed to do?
We can help, contact us at help@touchupdirect.com or call 818-600-8160.
Bought the paint from you guys. For my sky metallic Tacoma. Put it on and the paints darker then the car….
Ok, please send us an email to help@touchupdirect.com. Include a few pictures please. We’ll figure out what’s going on and get the issue resolved for you quickly.
So I feel like I will need to put some filler before priming as well. Do you think I need to use wax and grease remover wipe right before I put the primer, or should I use it before the filler?....also what sandpaper did you use to even it out after you put the filler?...to get the right shape...before you put the primer...Also, which sandpaper did you use to get rid of the lines after you put the primer?
The wax and grease remover should be used before you apply filler. I believe Boris sanded the filler with 500 grit, then finished with 1500 just to make sure no lines were showing. I hope this helps!
@@TouchUpDirect Thank you for your advice..How long should I wait after the clearcoat to buff and polish? it says 48 hours on the clearcoat can.....
@@utkarshcj 48hrs is recommended, but anything after 24hrs should be ok too.
What is the brown looking thing he added on the scratch to make it look even. That wasn’t mentioned
We used the ISOPON Scratch and Stone Chip Filler. You can find it on our website here: touchupdirect.com/shop/accessories/auto-motorcycle-body-filler/isopon-scratch-filler/
Yes! Please let me know what he used as a filler in Step 3.
Got it!!! Thank you!
I bought your aerosol platinum kit, which does not have the putty/filler to use on my bumper. Is it not needed to put filler before primer? Can this part be skipped?
It can be skipped, yes. It all depends on how deep the scratch is and if filler is needed or not. It is not required though.
Do you always need to add primer?
What does he mean by feathering it and if you see a straight line at 3:00?
Feathering as in lightly sanding down the line. Blending the two areas, above and below, together to remove any rough edges.
What product is better for a bumper scrape a few inches wide? Brush or spray can?
The answer really depends on what your goal is. If a cover-up is ok, then a brush can take care of that. If you are trying to create a factory finish and make the damage disappear, you will need to use an aerosol can. It most cases, you'll need sand and fill the damage, but that will depend on the severity of the scrape. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.
TouchUpDirect can seems like the better fit thank you !
Ive order some side fenders for my car and also ordered your Aerosol Essential Kit i was wondering if ill have enough for the color?
Hello JoJo, I apologize for the late reply. In order for me to answer this question, I'll need to know more about the project. What vehicle did you order fenders for? Are these fender flairs or just trim?
I realize you may have figured this out already, but if not please let us know by emailing help@touchupdirect.com
The color was enough for the fenders it was for to ht auto wide fenders for the 2015 wrx
JoJoThe Official I’m planning to paint my own fender too when i get my TUD order. How was your painting experience if i may ask? I have no experience in painting or whatsoever, and wanted to save some money thats why i wanna do it myself.
What was the sandpaper wet with? And does the Aerosol Platinum Kit come with enough to redo peeling paint on a hood of a 2012 Nissan Sentra?
Hello Jewell! For wet-sanding, you can simply keep a small bucket of water for cleaning and rewetting the sandpaper. Most hoods will need at least three cans of color to get full coverage. If you attempt to paint your hood with only one aerosol, the color will not match because the paint will be spread too thin. The rest of the kit accessories will be enough, so you can order one Platinum kit, then order the extra cans of paint and clear coat separately. If you have more questions about coverage, I recommend reaching out to our support team by emailing help@touchupdirect.com. Thanks!
Can I use this method if my area of scratches is bigger than that?
Yes. The aerosol can be used to respray entire pannels. Can you provide more details on your specific project?
what if your part is already in primer,is it okay to put few coats of your primer on it or no?
Yes, it should be no issue at all. Make sure to scuff the current primer with 800-1000 grit first.
How long before you can wet sand the clear coat?
48 hours is what we typically recommend.
Aloha!! I just ordered a FENDER for my nissan sentra s 2015 Gun Metallic. MY QUESTION is how much paint would i need to paint the fender myself? Do i need to bring it to a professional paint job shop? I live in an island where theres no paint shop available and shipping cost is way too expensive. Please help. Thank you
Should i use -Aerosol Essential Kit- or -Aerosol Preferred Kit- for a bare metal Fender part that i ordered for my car????. I need to have it painted before i install it and replace the damaged fender. Please help.
How long must you wait before wet sanding/buffing the clearcoat
We recommend waiting for at least 24hrs before buffing or sanding.
@@TouchUpDirecthow many minutes to wait in between each coat of clearcoat?
@@13_Kas Usually 10-15 minutes between coats is fine.
What makes your paint better than duplicolor which is cheaper than your paint?Im interested in buying but trying to see what separates your product from others
That’s an easy one! Our paint is of the same exact quality of the finest auto body repair shops. If you took your car to a reputable body shop and they made a repair (say for something larger than you could ever use a touch up for) you would leave with factory guarantee and warranty. The paint we offer in every one of our sizes is of exactly the same quality.
Also, this is all we do. Touch up paint. That’s it. We don’t make tint for tail lights, spray-on chrome, bed liner, or any of these other things. We’re 100% focused on one thing, touch up paint. I’m not going to say Duplicolor is a bad product or anything of the sort. But I know what we do, nobody does it better and we guarantee it. 🙂
@@TouchUpDirect thank you for the reply I will consider your product for the touch up work I need to my car
@@TouchUpDirect ordered from you today the taffeta white Honda paint kit and also ordered spray nozzle.If I receive your product in a timely manner and it works well I will order from you again for other vehicles
@@Zer0tolerance77 Thank you! If you have any questions, comments or concerns do not hesitate to contact us!
@@TouchUpDirect ok thanks
Could I use this to cover a whole fender
One aerosol can might not cover an entire fender. In most cases, it will take two cans for full coverage. If you have an unusually large vehicle, you may need three.
TouchUpDirect and I could order an extra can off your site right ? It’s a Subaru cross trek one of the front fenders
@@supnacho7454 Yes, you're able to order a single can from our site. Once you've selected the color you'll be presented with kit options - simply select the no kit option and proceed to checkout. I do recommend 2 cans of color, reds tend to take a bit more for full coverage. Thanks!
Can you use 2k primer with your products
Yes, 2K primers work great, as well as 2K clear coats.
I hope someone replies. I sent an email and I haven’t heard back.
So, I have a small area, the size of a quarter on my hood.
Using the method in the video, Can your 1k or 2k clear feather out to blend into the surrounding factory clear, or would I have to repaint the whole hood?
I’ve repainted guitars with lacquers, lacquers melt into each other. I would assume 1k and 2k don’t with factory finishes. I have a Toyota Corolla.
Any help would be appreciated.
My questions are:
Will either of your clears “melt” into the original finish?
And
If not, and I feather it. Will the clear coat sprayed on areas that are not primed and color coated (factory finish areas) eventually peel?
Hello! Thanks for asking, sorry you didn't get an answer prior.
Ok, so the short answer is, no, it will not melt into the current paint on the vehicle. I do understand what you're asking though, you want the paint to blend.
Any place you apply paint or clear, you will need to scuff with 800-1000 grit. It's not easy to do what you're describing and not have hard paint lines and simultaneously have good adhesion, scuffing will address the adhesion.
To avoid the hard paint lines I'd use the tape roll over method shown in this video around the 15 minute mark: ua-cam.com/video/J8XETjo4GiQ/v-deo.html
@@TouchUpDirect Hopefully you’ll reply to this as well.
I see a lot of people sand into the primer. Is that on purpose? So, that the layers of primer, color and clear coat feather out to level with the surrounding clear?
I have two rock chips in the center of a panel. I’m fairly confident I can blend the clear with a solvent blender. Extra work, but whatever. My concern is the clear in that area being higher than the rest of the panel. Lacquer melts into itself, so I know you can just block sand.
I just ordered your putty, primer and color aerosol cans.
Should I just fill the holes, sand it level as possible, prime and feather out the clear?
Or should I start with a deep sanding area and build up to level with the putty, primer and color?
I have experience with lacquers.. but they’re more forgiving.
Hope I didn’t convolute my questions. Thank you!
@@AMGL1989 Ok, there's a lot to cover here...let's try to work through the questions.
I took a look at your order and do not see Clearcoat, that leaves me assuming you already have some of some type. Check for compatibility prior to actually doing the paint work.
Regarding the rest, here is what we recommend. Any place that needs putty, prep sand with 400 first, clean, apply the putty then sand with 800. Prep and prime whatever area needs to be primed, again wetsand with 800 to smooth out the primer.
Apply color coats as needed (usually 3-4 coats). Do NOT do any wetsanding.
Apply 3 coats of clear. I highly recommend watching around the 15 minute mark of this video to help learn how to eliminate hard paint lines: ua-cam.com/video/J8XETjo4GiQ/v-deo.html
I hope that answers your questions!
@@TouchUpDirect damn, you reply via UA-cam pretty efficiently, thank you. I started to get cold feet so I’ve been trying to cancel my order. Reason being, I’ve read a lot of reviews about the color not matching. I also take into consideration that some of these people didn’t follow instructions or do any research. Worst case scenario, with your color match guarantee.. are there refunds like with Scratcher Happen?
@@AMGL1989 LOL, no joke, Scratches Happen wouldn't even have happened as a company if it wasn't for us! Yeah, we've got you covered...we were the first company with a Color Match Guarantee and we stand behind it 100%. I just checked and there are some variants on 1K3 so play it safe and check your color before proceeding with the project. Do the test card, with Clearcoat. Inspect it closely to make sure it looks accurate. If not, hit us up at help@touchupdirect.com and we'll get it sorted. It's a pretty popular color for us, I don't anticipate any issues.
Do these contain isocyanates?
Isocyanates are typically found in polyurethane paints - we use waterborne, so you wont find them in ours. You can find the SDS for our products on our Help Desk if you'd like more information on what is used in our products. This doesn't mean that you shouldn't protect yourself while spraying. Always wear a respirator and be sure to spray in a well-ventilated area.
@@TouchUpDirect thank you! The matte clear coat bottle in the kit is labeled as urethane though; are they not used in this either? Asking as I just learned about these and don't want to use isos even in my open garage. I'd like to order more from you guys, but just wanted to be sure first.
What are you using to prep the surface before priming...it wasnt stated.
Hi Eduardo! For this repair we used the TouchUpDirect Wax and Grease Remover Wipe - touchupdirect.com/shop/accessories/wax-and-grease-remover-handy-wipe/ I use this for every touch up project to clear the surface of any contaminants. I believe Boris used this after he sanded the damage.
TouchUpDirect what’s that yellow stuff?before Boris put the primer?
@@aaronpapio1258 The damage Boris was repairing was very deep and we needed some filler before we primed. Here's a link to what we used. touchupdirect.com/shop/accessories/scratch-filler/
DO we need use 500 grit sand paper all the time?
No, sanding is not a 'required' step. You will only need to sand if the painted area is rough or uneven. 500 could be too rough for some applications as well. You may want to use 1500 or 2000 grit if you are working with clear coat for example.
I applied touch up paint to my vehicle 4 days ago and it came out fine, now I noticed my car is getting a bit dusty and wanted to know if it's okay to spray it down with a pressure washer? I'm not doing a full wash with soap just a quick spray down with just water, will this affect my paint on the area I touched up? And also would it be ok to dry the area with a microfiber towel or let it air dry after spraying it down? I don't want to damage the paint.
I'm glad to hear your project turned out well! As long as the clear coat has been given at least 24 hours to dry, it's ok to wash it. It sounds like you've waited plenty long. Let us know if you have any other questions.
@@TouchUpDirect ok thank you
quick question, the filler you re applying at 1:22, does that come with kit you order from touch up, or is that something i have to order separately (i just ordered the 79 dollar kit for my car), if not , what kind is it, and where can i find, also when you were done applying the filler did you sanded as well with a wet 500 grit? thanks
Hello! That particular filler we used was a product we were previously selling and is a fine product. But we’ve recently developed our own filler that’s packaged in a more DIY friendly size and is a great product. But it won’t be ready to release for a couple weeks yet. Do you need a recommendation in the meantime if you have a project you need to wrap up soon?
@@TouchUpDirect yes please...what would you recommend..thanks
@@frrus7327 Ok, you can use Kombi putty or a 1K Bondo putty for really small nicks or scratches. The only issue is it’s not sold in small amounts so you’ll end up buying quite a large tube. If you like, you can email me at uri@touchupdirect.com and I can see if we have any preproduction samples of our new product around.
@@TouchUpDirect ok sounds good ..thank you
@@TouchUpDirect Do you have this product for selling ?
I have a blue Honda Civic and i plan on spray painting the whole front and roof , the paint is chipped BADLY like the whole roof is gone and the front too and a bit on the sides😭 I just ordered 2 12oz aerosol spray cans do you think that’ll be enough?
Hi Jealy! It doesn't sound like that's not going to be enough to cover completely. I recommend reaching out to our support team - they can better assist you in this case. From my experience, you're going to need about 6 cans of the base color if the entire area needs to be re-sprayed.
You can contact our support staff by following this link: touchupdirect.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new
Thanks!
What's that clay you used?
Hi Tanya! We used the Isopon Stone and Rock Chip Filler for the deep scratches. It can be found on our website here touchupdirect.com/shop/accessories/filler/isopon-scratch-filler/
It's technically not designed for damage this large, but we've found it to be a very versatile filler that can handle it without issue. Let us know if you have any other questions.
Yeah. The clay was not mentioned
How many ounces are your spay cans
They are 13 fluid ounces...that’s a typical, common size spray can.
Is this a water base paint?
Most colors, yes. Some colors are still in urethane.
I was all excited to receive my order in the mail until I saw the damage box at my doorstep. When I open the box the Aerosol paint can had been depressed... So much for my plans on fixing the scratchs on my vehicle....
Oh no, I’m sorry to hear that! Did you contact our customer service, we’ll be glad to remedy this! I don’t have any way to look your order up via UA-cam, so please email us at help@touchupdirect.com.
Do you know the difference between 400, 1200, and 2000? Bc that's what I got and only 500 is mentioned in the video. Also, the 400 cut given was cut so it's hard to determine if it's 400 or 4000. Help lol
400 and 500 can be used interchangeably with no problem. You can physically feel the difference between the sandpapers between 400, 1200, and 2000. The 400 will feel the roughest (least smooth), while the 2000 will feel the smoothest or least rough.
@@TouchUpDirect the other 2 grades are for blending/feathering in primer/gloss?
@@epic1761 The 400-500 is really for prep before any paint or primer is applied. The 1200 is good for smoothing out the putty and/or primer prior to painting. The 2000, frankly, is probably the least useful in the pack unless you plan on doing some wetsanding to the final finish. If that's the case, the 2000 is fine for wetsanding, but you'll need a buffer to bring the gloss back. We are in the middle of re-working our sandpaper offerings to better suit most people's projects.
@@TouchUpDirect thank you so much for responding!!! I appreciate it, def helped out
@@TouchUpDirect Hello. If my car is matte color (factory paint), since I don’t need the “shine”, do I skip the wet sanding and buff/polish steps?
Hi! At what stage would i want to use the wax/grease remover? For full context I plan on using Isopon filler before I prime. Damaged area is similar bumper scuff to the one shown here. Also curious if you have any tips for applying the filler? What grade sandpaper should i use after applying filler?
I did the same thing with mine. Clean the surface with the grease remover before you put the filler. Once the filler dries out, use the 500 grit sand paper to begin with to make sure it’s somewhat clean and even, then use 1500 grit sand paper to make it smooth. Clean with paper towel. Then use tac cloth before primer. Hope this helps
Do we provide our own filler?
What kind of filler did he use?
In this case we used a 2-part Bondo filler. We also have available a 1-part filler for very small nicks and scratches: touchupdirect.com/touchupdirect-scratch-and-chip-putty-automotive-repair-filler/
QUESTION!! What was that beige paste looking stuff on step 3 before the tack cloth and does it come with the kit???? Thank you :)
Sorry for the delay, I missed this question! No, the putty does not come with the kit...yet. We are working to develop a touch up appropriate sized putty so that we can offer it soon. In the meantime you can use a 1K spot putty if you're working on a job currently.
My primer is kinda ruff when I apply it, should I do a light sanding?
Yes, I would definitely sand it. Your primer coat should be very smooth to the touch when dry. Any imperfections in the primer will likely show up in the preceding coats of paint!
@@TouchUpDirect Ok thanks
Is it just me or did you not blend the paint at all and there's a huge line where you can tell it's fresh paint?
We definitely blended the paint. The damage was to the bumper's bottom portion, and we sprayed a few inches past that. The line you are seeing is the body line in the bumper. This curve is casting a shadow, making the upper area look darker. This color matched perfectly.
Also, why did he remove the tape and reapply again at 2:30?
It was because after the primer was applied he wanted to wet sand it. And the wet sanding ruins the tape. So it’s better to remove the tape, wetsand, then retape and proceed with painting.
If i’m doing this for a car with single stage paint, do i need to still apply clear coat?
All of our colors require clear coat. Thanks!
What did you use to prep the surface for priming?
For priming you need to sand with 800 grit sandpaper. Then clean it with soap and water and then our Wax & Grease Remover wipe.
@@TouchUpDirect There is a putty he applies with a scrape tool correct? This doesn't appear to be included in your kits. What was he using?
@@StilmanIIo5 We do not have the putty available just yet. It will probably be another couple of months until it is. But any type of spot putty or bondo would work fine.
@@TouchUpDirect I noticed this putty as well which is not included in your kit. Do you (or anyone else) have a recommendation on a putty to use to fill in gashes that I can purchase, in the meantime? Thanks
@@MrPlasmo You can use a 1k or 1-part Bondo spot putty, that will work fine.We're in the process of making a small tube of spot putty more appropriate for touch up sizes, but won't have it available for at least a month or so yet.
Is it true that your cans paints are waterbase ????
Most colors are waterborne based, the same as most new vehicle finishes. The Primer and Clearcoat are urethane based.
What is the quantity of this can
The base colors aerosol are 13.5oz. The clear coat and primer cans are a bit larger at 16.5oz.
How much cans is needed for like a car wing?
Hi! Can you elaborate a bit? Which model vehicle is it? Are you referring to an aftermarket part? I've seen wings ranging from small to quite large :)
TouchUpDirect 2015+ subaru sti wingg?
@@isidrobarajasoficial So that's a big wing! I recommend a minimum of 3 aerosol cans, but due to the complexity of the part, I would get 4 to be safe. You're likely to get a lot of overspray when painting the lip and edges. Painting the underside will pose a challenge if it's fixed to the vehicle (just something to keep in mind). Ideally, the part would be mobile so you could rotate as needed to maximize coverage.
Nice Video. I ordered your Aersol Kit. How come the clear coat doesn't have a Hardener in it? Also, how long should you wait from going to Paint to Clear and each layer of clear after? In other videos I see people going from wet paint right to clear as its "bonds better". Then 5-10 minutes between each clear coat pass. What time interval should I use on your kit
Hi Kris,
Our standard clear coat doesn't have a hardener for two main reasons. One: To keep the cost down. Two: Most DIY repairs don't need a catalyzed clear coat. While nothing can replace a good 2k clear, it's not always required. We do offer a 2K clear coat which can be found here: touchupdirect.com/shop/accessories/
The recommended dry times between coats is 5-10 minutes. You don't want to apply clear to wet paint. Here's a helpful article on how to use our aerosol paints. touchupdirect.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360015413753-Aerosol-Application
@@TouchUpDirect I have to paint the entire hood and side panels. Would you recommend using 2K vs the normal clear the Kit comes with?
@@CopperStateCorals This all depends on what you're after. There's no question that a 2K clear will get you closer to the professional spray gun type finish, and that it will protect better in the long run. That said, our customers have been using 1k on hoods and body panels for years without issue. The downside to 2k is the price and the short pot life. Once that can has been "activated" you have a small window of time to use it. The 1k you can place on the shelf and use again down the road. If you're ok with spending more for the 2k then I say go for it! I hope this helps.
can i paint my whole car with this?
It wouldn’t be prudent to do so, no.
What type of primer do I need!
Of course, we are going to recommend the TouchUpDirect brand primer, which can be found here: touchupdirect.com/shop/accessories/ But any quality 1or 2K primer should work.
I see no gloss. I’m disappointed in clear coat quality. Will be canceling my order and upgrading it to 2k clear.
I bought the paint/ clear kit which is $49. So technically I payed $16 for a rustoleum finish clear coat!!! I should have just upgraded. I wish touch up direct would input more information on their products. I bought 8 kits.
@@vwbeetle1954 I'm sorry to hear that you're not getting great results with the clear. I can assure you that our clear coat is glossy (you can see in this video). 2K clear will be superior, but it's quite a bit more expensive. Have you tried reaching out to our support team to troubleshoot the issue? I'm sure they can provide expert advise and help get your project back on track. They can be reached by emailing help@touchupdirect.com or by calling 855-6008160.
No ví que se pareciera tanto al color 😔
What if im painting on chrome such as a grill
Chrome needs special preparation and definitely primer. Depending on your project you may be able to scuff it and prime it if it’s a plastic grill.
@@TouchUpDirect just finished coating it all up with your kit looks awesome thank you!