Man you saved me from wasting another day reading smug answers from so called techs online. The button on mine wasn’t pushed on completely. Of course I had to replace the cable pulley that broke from the door going into reverse. Great video and thank you.
After replacing the motor and drive due to two broken rubber mounts, I had the symptoms you described. Your video helped pinpoint the rpm sensor issue. In my case, I found the wire terminals in the connector were not contacting the terminals on the sensor on the new motor. Pulled the terminals out, spread them, reinstalled, and now the rpm sensor works! Thanks for taking the time to make and post the video!!
A big thank you! I couldn’t find a solution anywhere. I finally traced it back to the RPM sensor then saw your video. I had the exact same problem with my opener! That’s a really low tolerance between the rotation wheel and the sensor given the amount of vibration an opener has. I had to adjust the collar, and I even applied some black electrical tape to extend beyond the rotation wheel/counter about another 16th of an inch to make sure it doesn’t happen again.
Hey, Fried Gizzard, you nailed it! Exactly my problem after installing the new worm drive kit. I was so excited to get it fixed I dropped my opener from a 10 foot ladder onto nice hard concrete. Broke one of the plastic covers, but did the fix, got her back together, and she works just fine (a few zip ties for the plastic bit!) Thanks for taking the time - a huge help for the rest of us penny pinchers!
My man! I took everything apart and order new parts and couldn't figure out why it didn't work. This was the exact reason. Loved the Allen screws pushed everything together boom! Doorworks again. Thank you!
Thank you so much for sharing this! I had the same scenario...replaced shredded drive gears and then this behavior. My logic board flashed 5 blinks to tell me it was not detecting RPM, so I replaced the RPM sensor and black cup, but still the same issue. Your description of HOW it works and sensitivity to the motor shaft placement is where I'll focus now and I'm sure I'll get it working finally after I try to seat the lock collar as close to the motor as I can. In the process, I have totally confused the up/down limits and I'm not even sure which way the motor turns first but through persistence will overcome.
Thanks so much Friedgizzard!! I replaced the gears and had the exact same issue. Spent hours trying to figure it out - had the exact same experience as you had. Tightened up the collar and it did the job! 1/16th of an inch! Can't thank you enough. My door works great now - never been better.
I had already order a new sensor when I found your video. I had alot more play in my motor shaft, so I was able to push it through and re-secure the collar. Put the round piece back on and my opener is back to working like it should! Thanks for the help!
Bro, your a legend, I was going mad over this! Just had to press the interrupter cover a tiny bit, heard it click back into place and had worked ever since
Thanks for posting this video. I had the same problem after replacing the plastic gears last week. My door would only move about a foot and then reverse. I checked everything. It appeared to be put back together correctly. After viewing your video I opened up the back of my opener where the RPM sensor is located. I pushed it down on the shaft and made sure it was lined up with the wired part of the sensor. After that my door started going up and down but would go to far and then reverse. It was traveling all the way in each direction. I checked the travel limit adjustments in each direction. I then watched the limiter settings as I raised and lowered the door. The door was not stopping at the limit settings. At this point I thought it must be broken but did not give up. After doing this several times I saw one of the wires had popped of the limiter switch. As soon as I hooked that up all I had to do was adjust the limiter settings and it now works perfectly. I have a 1/2 Craftsman opener that I installed in May of 1988 for my parents. Needless to say this is an excellent opener except for the plastic gears. Considering the gears lasted until February of 2022 I guess they were made quite well. Thanks again for pointing me in the correct direction:) Paul S. Heimers
I had a different problem than this but I needed to see the wiring. This video showed exactly what I needed and I was able to correct my problem. Thanks for posting. Saved me from making a service call or buying a new opener.
Long story short is I pulled a new in the box Craftsman that I purchased in 2010 for the small garage but never installed and it had this rpm sensor problem out of the box. Great information and this solved our problem, Thank You! Friedgizzard!
Actually this is her husband but we would both agree you are awesome sir!!! I had the same symptoms and retightened the collar and moved the sensor back in place, BINGO. Now work!!!! Thank you
Awesome buddy! I had the exact same issue and could not find any solution on internet. But you pointed out exact problem and solution. My RPM sensor's fan looking thingy (black color) was moved/slid out accidentally when I was replacing the gear. Anyway, I just used my 2 fingers to slide in that thing inwards and voila. It worked like it should. THANKS A BUNCH!!!!
Thank you for your video explaining how this worked. My opener had exactly the same symptoms. I found the speed sensor and it appeared to be in its proper place, but as I was moving the chain up and down I noticed one of the plastic tabs had some crud on it. I cleaned off the tab and it began working perfectly again. THANKS!! You saved me a couple hundred dollars and a days work.
You sir are the man. I can't thank you enough for helping me solve this problem. I had the exact symptoms you had and I have the original garage door unit from 97. I've only changed the motherboard once in 15 years. The issue was exactly as you said all I did was literally usually Allen wrench to turn that screw and now it's good as new.. it wasn't the track, it wasn't the sensors, it wasn't the chain, it wasn't lubing it it was simply that one little piece that I would have never found had it not been for your video. You probably won't even read this but I hope that someone else does because it's solved my problem. Thank you again.
Oh I am reading it, thanks for reaching out. This video has saved alot of people from buying new garage door openers. Have a great weekend and God Bless!
Thanks for posting, I had exactly the same issue. Just finished replacing drive kit and.... Wham.... same issue. Went and checked for movment (and there wasn't much) tightened everything up and everything worked as it should! Many thanks!!!!
God bless you for this video. I had the same symptoms following main gear and worm gear replacement. Too much travel in the shaft under load. I had not assembled the thrust cup and washers correctly. Redid that and made sure motor shaft was in the right position. Had I not seen your video I would not have figured it out on my own. Thank you good sir!
Yup, me too ! But my collar was tight, looked for the led in the back panel, 5 blinks, means that the rpm sensor or sensor board is bad, however in my case, the connector was loose, I pushed it in tighter and it worked. That round rpm sensor has to be at least half way into the slot of the sensor board !
Same exact symptoms I'm dealing with. Thanks for posting! Looks like the plastic wheel with the cutouts was broken, some small plastic stubs came off when I pulled on it.
Fred you are a life saver! Just fixed my COUPLER on my Genie screw drive. Put everything back together, EXACTLY as it was and then THIS started to happen. I've been going nuts past 2 days trying to figure out WTF ! I'm really handy. my kids have a saying "DAD CAN FIX IT". But, this has had me baffled! Brother you are awesome! thanks for the post. I owe you a beer too!
Thanks so much for posting. I replaced the logic board & the sensor switch per chamberlain’s tech support and this fixed my problem. Wish I would’ve found this video first.
thank you . that was exactly my problem after replacing the plastic gears. the black round encoder was somehow non longer seated deeply enough to interrupt the sensor beam. i removed the round encoder and ground down its inner plastic shaft about 1/8" all the way to the tightening compression collar, worked like a charm, then simply had to adjust the limit switches for the correct amount of door travel up and down
Today my garage travel about 6 inches or so and returned to the starting position. After watching your video I just cleaned up the LED and my garage is working again. It was so hot here the last couple days and the grease on the turning gears above it dripped down and covered the LED causing the malfunction.
Wow - thank you - I was going crazy trying to figure out what the correct set of Google terms was going to lead me to a solution. Finally got lucky and found your video. I was close to throwing in the towel and buying a whole new unit.
Mine was a bad solder joint on the RPM sensor. Yes it got knocked around cuz of the play on the motor axle. Fixed that and the bad solder point. All good.
The round black thing is an interrupter wheel. The slots in the wheel interrupt the light beam going across the gap in the sensor. The electronics counts the rate that the interruptions are occurring to determine the motor speed. I think what happens is the thrust bearing inside the motor wears as the unit ages. What that does is to allow the interrupter to get too far away from the sensor. When that happens the light beam going across the sensor gap is not interrupted properly and so the electronics thinks the unit is bound up so it stops the motor. Good job figuring that out.
Very good video. For all those who need to change the gear assembly its recommended to double check the RPM sensor wheel in case something gets moved. In my case one of the cables was hanging low enough to get in the way of the wheel causing it to stop and therefore to trigger the stop signal. Thanks for your help.
My door was doing the same thing but when I took the covers off the motor I did not find an RPM sensor. What I found was that I had to re-teach the motor where the up and down end-points were
Thanks for the info ! . By chance did you ( or anyone reading this ) have to purchase any new parts / pieces to fix the problem . Any added info also appreciated .
The problem usually happens after new parts have been installed and things are moved in the unit. The rpm sensor itself, unless it’s is broken, just simply slips out of place.
Fixing my grand mothers garage door opener, having a very similar problem. If you were to hold the door button closed would it still over ride and close the door? Thats what’s happening here. I suspect ether the rpm sensor or the door sensor.
No, the rpm sensor will not allow you to over ride the door, it will only allow a foot or so of movement. If you can over ride the door then in my experience it is a door sensor problem.
My opener will not go down when the outside temperature is below 20 degrees. This only happens when using the remote, if I continuously hold the wall mounted switch in, it will go down. Do you think it could be this rpm sensor or a connection to it ?
I am not a garage door pro, but I personally do not think it is the rpm sensor. If the rpm sensor was a problem it would happen every time. As far as i know, the only thing that holding the keypad button down will override is the sensor that says if something is in the way. I would say that when the temp drops, something is changing the sensor. Is there a chance that the sensor is warm and then the cold air fogs up the lens or maybe something is moving with the temp difference?
@@mikeliu7956 Yep same problem. When I took it apart it did look like the plastic rotating cap for the rpm sensor was not seated fully and so I pressed it on. Ir started to work again but that may be just because the garage warmed a bit while I was working on it. I will have to wait for the next cold snap to be sure.
@@patd2765 thank you for your info. We’ll look for that next time if it fails again (only if we can open the cover and know what I should be looking for).
Mi motor solo gira en una dirección , me parece que es un problema de tarjeta ya que cuando presiono el botón de apertura o cierre, el relay después de recorrer un periodo suena 10 veces tiktak , podría ser algún condensador o algún relay que no le llega corriente , saludos
Cannot use my keypad where I put a new code in since we bought this house which was ony 1 yr. 5 months ago and it worked at first and now I don't know what is going on as I cannot use the keypad at all. Please help me to fix this and get it working again.
I can't help with that problem, but it sounds like you need to factory reset your keypad. You have to get the owners manual to fix your problem unless it is broken then replace it.
HELLO FRED,,,THANKS FOR YOUR TIME AND VIDEO. I'M HAVING THE SAME PROB. I'LL CHECK IT OUT LATER. THESE "BEASTS"BELONG IN A GARBAGE DUMP, ALONG WITH THEIR : DESIGNERS"
Man you saved me from wasting another day reading smug answers from so called techs online. The button on mine wasn’t pushed on completely. Of course I had to replace the cable pulley that broke from the door going into reverse. Great video and thank you.
You should make a new video that would direct us straight to that. I searched and searched. Very helpful.
After replacing the motor and drive due to two broken rubber mounts, I had the symptoms you described. Your video helped pinpoint the rpm sensor issue. In my case, I found the wire terminals in the connector were not contacting the terminals on the sensor on the new motor. Pulled the terminals out, spread them, reinstalled, and now the rpm sensor works! Thanks for taking the time to make and post the video!!
A big thank you! I couldn’t find a solution anywhere. I finally traced it back to the RPM sensor then saw your video. I had the exact same problem with my opener! That’s a really low tolerance between the rotation wheel and the sensor given the amount of vibration an opener has. I had to adjust the collar, and I even applied some black electrical tape to extend beyond the rotation wheel/counter about another 16th of an inch to make sure it doesn’t happen again.
Hey, Fried Gizzard, you nailed it! Exactly my problem after installing the new worm drive kit. I was so excited to get it fixed I dropped my opener from a 10 foot ladder onto nice hard concrete. Broke one of the plastic covers, but did the fix, got her back together, and she works just fine (a few zip ties for the plastic bit!) Thanks for taking the time - a huge help for the rest of us penny pinchers!
My man! I took everything apart and order new parts and couldn't figure out why it didn't work. This was the exact reason. Loved the Allen screws pushed everything together boom! Doorworks again. Thank you!
Thank you so much for sharing this! I had the same scenario...replaced shredded drive gears and then this behavior. My logic board flashed 5 blinks to tell me it was not detecting RPM, so I replaced the RPM sensor and black cup, but still the same issue. Your description of HOW it works and sensitivity to the motor shaft placement is where I'll focus now and I'm sure I'll get it working finally after I try to seat the lock collar as close to the motor as I can. In the process, I have totally confused the up/down limits and I'm not even sure which way the motor turns first but through persistence will overcome.
Yeah i made about every adjustment i possibly could before slowing down and convincing myself the problem was something that i changed out.
Thanks so much Friedgizzard!! I replaced the gears and had the exact same issue. Spent hours trying to figure it out - had the exact same experience as you had. Tightened up the collar and it did the job! 1/16th of an inch! Can't thank you enough. My door works great now - never been better.
I had already order a new sensor when I found your video. I had alot more play in my motor shaft, so I was able to push it through and re-secure the collar. Put the round piece back on and my opener is back to working like it should! Thanks for the help!
Bro, your a legend, I was going mad over this! Just had to press the interrupter cover a tiny bit, heard it click back into place and had worked ever since
Thanks for posting this video. I had the same problem after replacing the plastic gears last week. My door would only move about a foot and then reverse. I checked everything. It appeared to be put back together correctly. After viewing your video I opened up the back of my opener where the RPM sensor is located. I pushed it down on the shaft and made sure it was lined up with the wired part of the sensor. After that my door started going up and down but would go to far and then reverse. It was traveling all the way in each direction. I checked the travel limit adjustments in each direction. I then watched the limiter settings as I raised and lowered the door. The door was not stopping at the limit settings. At this point I thought it must be broken but did not give up. After doing this several times I saw one of the wires had popped of the limiter switch. As soon as I hooked that up all I had to do was adjust the limiter settings and it now works perfectly. I have a 1/2 Craftsman opener that I installed in May of 1988 for my parents. Needless to say this is an excellent opener except for the plastic gears. Considering the gears lasted until February of 2022 I guess they were made quite well. Thanks again for pointing me in the correct direction:) Paul S. Heimers
I had a different problem than this but I needed to see the wiring. This video showed exactly what I needed and I was able to correct my problem. Thanks for posting. Saved me from making a service call or buying a new opener.
Long story short is I pulled a new in the box Craftsman that I purchased in 2010 for the small garage but never installed and it had this rpm sensor problem out of the box. Great information and this solved our problem, Thank You! Friedgizzard!
Actually this is her husband but we would both agree you are awesome sir!!! I had the same symptoms and retightened the collar and moved the sensor back in place, BINGO. Now work!!!! Thank you
Awesome buddy! I had the exact same issue and could not find any solution on internet. But you pointed out exact problem and solution. My RPM sensor's fan looking thingy (black color) was moved/slid out accidentally when I was replacing the gear. Anyway, I just used my 2 fingers to slide in that thing inwards and voila. It worked like it should. THANKS A BUNCH!!!!
Thank you for your video explaining how this worked. My opener had exactly the same symptoms. I found the speed sensor and it appeared to be in its proper place, but as I was moving the chain up and down I noticed one of the plastic tabs had some crud on it. I cleaned off the tab and it began working perfectly again. THANKS!! You saved me a couple hundred dollars and a days work.
That's the way mind worked after I replaced my gears. You are the only person I heard this from thank you so much for the tip you are a life saver.
You sir are the man. I can't thank you enough for helping me solve this problem. I had the exact symptoms you had and I have the original garage door unit from 97. I've only changed the motherboard once in 15 years. The issue was exactly as you said all I did was literally usually Allen wrench to turn that screw and now it's good as new.. it wasn't the track, it wasn't the sensors, it wasn't the chain, it wasn't lubing it it was simply that one little piece that I would have never found had it not been for your video. You probably won't even read this but I hope that someone else does because it's solved my problem. Thank you again.
Oh I am reading it, thanks for reaching out. This video has saved alot of people from buying new garage door openers. Have a great weekend and God Bless!
100 hours of videos. Finally found the answer.
Thanks for posting, I had exactly the same issue. Just finished replacing drive kit and.... Wham.... same issue. Went and checked for movment (and there wasn't much) tightened everything up and everything worked as it should! Many thanks!!!!
I had the same problem and it was dri ing me absolutely nuts. I cleaned the sensor with a q tip and alcohol and now its working fine.
God bless you for this video. I had the same symptoms following main gear and worm gear replacement. Too much travel in the shaft under load. I had not assembled the thrust cup and washers correctly. Redid that and made sure motor shaft was in the right position.
Had I not seen your video I would not have figured it out on my own. Thank you good sir!
You are welcome!
thanks man, i have the same problem, after changing some parts, i had that problem, you rule bro.
Yup, me too ! But my collar was tight, looked for the led in the back panel, 5 blinks, means that the rpm sensor or sensor board is bad, however in my case, the connector was loose, I pushed it in tighter and it worked. That round rpm sensor has to be at least half way into the slot of the sensor board !
SPOT ON that's exactly the problem and you nailed the fix. Saved me from swapping out the entire opener motor. Thumbs UP excellent!!!!
Frederick Dunn if it helps just one person then its worth the time to make the video
@@friedgizzard definitely!
THANK YOU! IT WORKED, MINE WAS ONLY LOOSE.
Same exact symptoms I'm dealing with. Thanks for posting! Looks like the plastic wheel with the cutouts was broken, some small plastic stubs came off when I pulled on it.
Fred you are a life saver! Just fixed my COUPLER on my Genie screw drive. Put everything back together, EXACTLY as it was and then THIS started to happen. I've been going nuts past 2 days trying to figure out WTF ! I'm really handy. my kids have a saying "DAD CAN FIX IT". But, this has had me baffled! Brother you are awesome! thanks for the post. I owe you a beer too!
Thanks so much for posting. I replaced the logic board & the sensor switch per chamberlain’s tech support and this fixed my problem. Wish I would’ve found this video first.
thank you . that was exactly my problem after replacing the plastic gears. the black round encoder was somehow non longer seated deeply enough to interrupt the sensor beam. i removed the round encoder and ground down its inner plastic shaft about 1/8" all the way to the tightening compression collar, worked like a charm, then simply had to adjust the limit switches for the correct amount of door travel up and down
So glad I found this. This is exactly what was going on and the exact issue was with the sensor
Great video. Solved my problem. I had to use some of the original washers to make it work. The new ones were too thick and moved it 1/16”
Today my garage travel about 6 inches or so and returned to the starting position. After watching your video I just cleaned up the LED and my garage is working again. It was so hot here the last couple days and the grease on the turning gears above it dripped down and covered the LED causing the malfunction.
Wow - thank you - I was going crazy trying to figure out what the correct set of Google terms was going to lead me to a solution. Finally got lucky and found your video. I was close to throwing in the towel and buying a whole new unit.
What terms were you using, Let me know and i will update my tags to make it easier for others to find. Thanks for the input.
Best video on internet! Thank you!!! EXACTLY my problem
Mine was a bad solder joint on the RPM sensor. Yes it got knocked around cuz of the play on the motor axle. Fixed that and the bad solder point. All good.
Hey! You just fixed my garage door too! Thanks for posting this!
This actually help fix my issues as well. Really appreciate the post and guidance. Thanks!
The round black thing is an interrupter wheel. The slots in the wheel interrupt the light beam going across the gap in the sensor. The electronics counts the rate that the interruptions are occurring to determine the motor speed. I think what happens is the thrust bearing inside the motor wears as the unit ages. What that does is to allow the interrupter to get too far away from the sensor. When that happens the light beam going across the sensor gap is not interrupted properly and so the electronics thinks the unit is bound up so it stops the motor. Good job figuring that out.
That was exactly the problem i had with mine. :^) The black wheel was not push all the way.
Great job isolating the issue. Thanks for sharing this video
Very good video. For all those who need to change the gear assembly its recommended to double check the RPM sensor wheel in case something gets moved. In my case one of the cables was hanging low enough to get in the way of the wheel causing it to stop and therefore to trigger the stop signal. Thanks for your help.
You are the man! thanks a lot for that usefull information.
Thanks, this worked for me!
Thank you so much! We were able to fix our garage door!
THANK YOU!! I did exactly what did. All fixed now.
The same thing happened to me exactly .... Thanks for the tip
Very awesome video, you were spot on.
thanks i had the same problem , very hard to find this solution!!
Thank You Brother!!!
What a life saving video....thank you....
owe you a beer.
thanks for the fix,, mine just popped fwd and worked perfect
Ur a life saver! Thanks for ur post
Thank you. Same thing is happening for a friend.
It solved my problem, thanks a lot.
My door was doing the same thing but when I took the covers off the motor I did not find an RPM sensor. What I found was that I had to re-teach the motor where the up and down end-points were
thanks bud
Thanks for the info ! .
By chance did you ( or anyone
reading this ) have to purchase any new parts / pieces to fix the problem .
Any added info also appreciated .
The problem usually happens after new parts have been installed and things are moved in the unit. The rpm sensor itself, unless it’s is broken, just simply slips out of place.
@@friedgizzard .. Thanks for the info . 👍 .
fixed thanks to you
Fixing my grand mothers garage door opener, having a very similar problem. If you were to hold the door button closed would it still over ride and close the door? Thats what’s happening here. I suspect ether the rpm sensor or the door sensor.
No, the rpm sensor will not allow you to over ride the door, it will only allow a foot or so of movement. If you can over ride the door then in my experience it is a door sensor problem.
new LM ops have travel modules that eliminate the rpm sensor and interuptor cup
Thank you sir
Great video
Dude i am upside down trying to fix this shit lift master no video on you tube pin pointed like this same fricken problem . Ordered the part now
🤞
I wish this worked for me. I believe mine is related to the sensor as well but I still can't get it to fully cycle.
Me too, did u finally fix it ?
@@yipingrao2766 Did you fix yours? I am now having the same problem.
Thank you!
My opener will not go down when the outside temperature is below 20 degrees. This only happens when using the remote, if I continuously hold the wall mounted switch in, it will go down. Do you think it could be this rpm sensor or a connection to it ?
I am not a garage door pro, but I personally do not think it is the rpm sensor. If the rpm sensor was a problem it would happen every time. As far as i know, the only thing that holding the keypad button down will override is the sensor that says if something is in the way. I would say that when the temp drops, something is changing the sensor. Is there a chance that the sensor is warm and then the cold air fogs up the lens or maybe something is moving with the temp difference?
Following! Our opener also failed to go down for a few days when the temperature was in the 20’s. It returns to normal after the weather warms up.
@@mikeliu7956 Yep same problem. When I took it apart it did look like the plastic rotating cap for the rpm sensor was not seated fully and so I pressed it on. Ir started to work again but that may be just because the garage warmed a bit while I was working on it. I will have to wait for the next cold snap to be sure.
@@patd2765 thank you for your info. We’ll look for that next time if it fails again (only if we can open the cover and know what I should be looking for).
Mi motor solo gira en una dirección , me parece que es un problema de tarjeta ya que cuando presiono el botón de apertura o cierre, el relay
después de recorrer un periodo suena 10 veces tiktak , podría ser algún condensador o algún relay que no le llega corriente , saludos
Thing is a pain in the butt, first thought is to check your safeties. Best bet is to count MAS, 2 flashes is an rpm issue.
Same thing happen to me today 10 hours at it lol still not fix thanks
I had to make a hole in the rpm sensor cap
Cannot use my keypad where I put a new code in since we bought this house which was ony 1 yr. 5 months ago and it worked at first and now I don't know what is going on as I cannot use the keypad at all. Please help me to fix this and get it working again.
I can't help with that problem, but it sounds like you need to factory reset your keypad. You have to get the owners manual to fix your problem unless it is broken then replace it.
HELLO FRED,,,THANKS FOR YOUR TIME AND VIDEO. I'M HAVING THE SAME PROB. I'LL CHECK IT OUT LATER.
THESE "BEASTS"BELONG IN A GARBAGE DUMP, ALONG WITH THEIR : DESIGNERS"
Exact same thing happened to me. Thanks - I was just able to push the speed sensor further onto the shaft and it began working perfectly!