Replacing the RPM Sensor on a Garage Door Opener
Вставка
- Опубліковано 9 лют 2025
- This video from Sears PartsDirect shows how to replace the RPM sensor on a garage door opener. The RPM sensor detects the motor speed. If your door only moves 6 to 8 inches at a time and the LED light flashes 5 times, then the RPM sensor is likely defective. You can replace the RPM sensor using the steps in this video.
Visit us at:
www.searsparts...?sid=soc:youtube:replacing-the-RPM-sensor-on-a-gdo
Or call 1-800-437-1673 to speak with a parts specialist.
The video includes these parts and tools. Look up your model to make sure you get the right parts for your garage door opener.
RPM sensor
www.searsparts...
Find parts for your garage door opener at
www.searsparts...
Or click here to schedule an appointment with a repair technician.
www.searshomes...
Transcript:
The RPM sensor detects the motor speed. If your door only moves 6 to 8 inches at a time and the LED light flashes 5 times, then the RPM sensor is likely defective. You can replace the RPM sensor using the steps in this video. Wear work gloves to protect your hands. Now, let’s get started. Unplug the garage door opener. Or, turn off the house circuit breaker for the garage door opener. Pull the emergency release rope to release the trolley. Shut the garage door if it's not already closed. Remove the fastener ring from the straight door arm connected to the outer trolley. Pull out the clevis pin while supporting the straight arm to disconnect the garage door from the outer trolley. Lower the straight and curved arms down and rest them against the garage door. Open the light cover to access the wall control and safety sensor wires connected to the motor unit. Disconnect the wall control and safety sensor wires from the motor unit. Close the light cover. Remove the nuts, bolts and lock washers that secure the motor unit to the ceiling bracket. Support the motor unit with one hand as you remove the last bolt from the ceiling bracket. Carefully lower the motor unit and rest it on your work table. Remove the fastener ring from the header bracket clevis pin. Pull the clevis pin out of the rail and header bracket while supporting the rail with one hand. Lower the rail and rest it on a rung of the step ladder so the rail is level with the motor unit on your work table. Remove the light covers and light bulbs from either side of the motor unit. Flip the motor unit over, and remove the screws from the motor unit cover. Then pull the cover off. Unplug the RPM sensor wire harness. Remove the interrupter cup from the motor shaft. Release the RPM sensor from the mounting clip and remove it. Push the new RPM sensor into the mounting clip, locking the sensor into place. Connect the RPM sensor wire harness to the new sensor. Reinstall the interrupter cup on the motor shaft. Reinstall the motor unit cover, securing it with the mounting screws. Reinstall the light bulbs and the light covers on the motor unit. Reconnect the rail end to the header bracket using the clevis pin and fastener ring. Carefully set the motor unit on top of the step ladder. Reinstall the motor unit to the ceiling bracket using the nuts, bolts and lock washers. Open the light cover to access the wall control and safety sensor terminals on the motor unit. Reconnect the wall control and safety sensor wires to the motor unit. Close the light cover. Reconnect the straight door arm to the outer trolley using the clevis pin and fastener ring. Re-engage the trolley. Plug in the garage door opener. Or, turn on the house circuit breaker.
If you can solder and desolder, you can take a piece off a modern part that will fit on the little circuit board of the old opener. I did this with 41C4398A. Here I'm quoting my Amazon review:
Hi, I have an old Sears 1/3 HP opener, model 139.53000 I believe, circa 1995. (It's so ancient, the numbers have faded.) The correct rpm sensor part can't be found anywhere.
I mistakenly bought this part and was initially disappointed that it had an additional black plastic mounting piece that wasn't going to fit. Although very similar, the board on the new piece was a bit smaller than my old board, just enough so that drilling new holes wasn't an option.
My old board had two discrete components on the board --an infrared LED and a matching opposing receiver/transistor. The new board comes with these two components packaged in a unified housing. It so happens that the pinouts of both are exactly the same, which meant soldering the new part to the old board would work, and it did, saving me from buying a whole new opener.
If you know how to solder (and desolder) and are going to take this route, make note of the diode (arrow) symbol on the unified part (which is somewhat hard to see). The diode side goes closest to the the 4-pin plug. There are also two little plastic stand-off nubs on the bottom of the unified part that should be cut flush so that the part hugs the circuit board.
Also, I had to keep and reuse my original black plastic rotary interrupter part, as it has a smaller diameter.
I'm hoping the rpm sensor i bought on Amazon for $23 bucks is cheaper than ordering from mouser or digikey, especially if you order the wrong part. I'm perfectly capable of soldering and hot air re-work on smd's. This comment went way above most people's heads lol. They can't even change their own oil most of them lol. But I definitely picked up what you put down! 👌
If the trolley doesn't move at all (whether it's connected or not to the door) is it still the rpm sensor? I can still hear it making a sound even though nothing is moving. It's like an electrical sound that lasts 1 or 2 seconds.
You only need to remove the back cover, not take the whole assembly down from it's mounts.
yeah... I guess that have to tell you to do all that extra crap for safety reasons. It's NOT necessary though.
Thanks! I was wondering why in the heck you'd have to mess with all that when it looks like the sensor is accessible without all the extra work.
Mine was FOUR SCREWS to take off a side cover. It wasn't until I was up on a step ladder risking a fall from trying to support that entire assembly that I thought 'Wait a minute .....'.
EXACTLY what I was thinking! What the heck are they talking about? Thanks for confirming this for me.
I used a Q tip and wiped the RPM sensor several times. My garage door opener is now working. Why isn't this fix on the web as much as it should be.
Wonderful job!
Or you can just get a step ladder take cover off remove rpm sensor then replace it which takes a total of 2 minutes
I did not have to replace the sensor after all. I it was a little greasy so I took a paper towel piece and folded it until it would fit in the slot and wiped it down a little...bam! It worked!
Thanks for letting us know what you found and how you fixed the problem.
Hi, I have a sears craftsman 1/2 HP, it blinks 5 times and motor did not move at all.
I check the old logic board and did not see any burn or cold solder. I just replaced a new Sears Craftsman 41A5021-3M-315 Receiver Logic Board and the light still blink 5 times. Would that be the RPM sensor?
The logic board will typically send current to run the motor and stop the motor after the door moves about 6-inches if the RPM sensor is bad. Although the RPM sensor could be bad, your symptoms don't seem to point to that failure at this point. Unplug the garage door opener and check the wiring between the logic board and the motor because you indicated that the motor doesn't run at all. If the wiring is okay and the new logic board is sending current to the motor, you should hear the motor hum when you activate the opener. If you hear the motor hum, then the logic board is okay. If you have the door connected to the opener when testing the opener, pull the emergency release cord to disconnect the door from the opener's trolley and see if the motor runs and moves the trolley with the door disconnected. If the motor moves the trolley, test door travel by manually opening and closing the garage door by hand. If the door travels smoothly on its tracks and the opener motor moves the disconnected trolley but won't move the door when it's connected to the trolley, then you'll likely need to replace the motor. If the trolley only moves 6-inches when it's disconnected from the door, then you'll likely need to replace the RPM sensor. If the motor hums but doesn't move the trolley, the trolley could be binding up on the rail. We hope that these suggestions help. If you need further assistance, let us know.
Hello, I finally got my trolley moving all the way, replaced logic board and rpm sensor but now the remotes don't work! Since I replaced the logic/rpm sensor do I need to replace the remotes?
If you didn't program the remotes to work with the new logic board, then you'll need to do that. Follow the directions in the owner's manual for your garage door opener to program the remotes. Here's a video/article that shows how to program remotes on common garage door opener models: www.searspartsdirect.com/article/how-to-program-garage-door-opener-remotes-video.html . If you have problems programming the remotes to the new logic board, let us know and we'll try to help you further.
Did the rpm sensor cause your units to move some distance then de-energize the entire unit? then became operable after some short period of time?
When the RPM sensor is defective on most garage door openers, the opener will only move the door 6 to 8 inches then stop. Your symptoms point to a bind in the door or trolley, or an internal short circuit in the control system or motor. View this troubleshooting guide for help with travel problems: ua-cam.com/video/giZuLTMIOzc/v-deo.html.
I recently replaced the gears and sprockets. Now it appears the RPM sensor is bad..Might have been from the interruptor cup hitting the RPM sensor. Not sure if/how this has happened. How do I keep from damaging a new RMP Sensor?
So I think the set screws on on the shaft, just behind the interrupter cup have hit the cream colored (circuit board) part of the RMP sensor...Not sure why that would happen but anyone have ideas on this?
You should see 2 set screws on the shaft collar. Try loosening both set screws and then screw the set screws both back in evenly so one set screw doesn’t stick out more than the other. That may prevent one of the set screws from hitting the RPM sensor.
Don't buy... just extend the interrupter cup with electrical
tape. Just play around with it and you'll figure it out. Double the
thickness for rigidity. Only needs to extend about an 1/8 of an inch
beyond each prong.
I saw on another video that tells you to shorten the interrupter cup
I haven't tried this yet have replaced the senors plus new wires and control panel twice also replaced drive some time ago I could have bought on for what I have spent the unit was made in 2005 installed 2006 that's 17 years in Arizona heat I tnink it's time for a new opener. I'm tired of the wifes complaints.
garage door rpm sensor replacement
Clevis pin, not cleevis pin.