3D Printed Hydroponic Garden: One Month Update
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- 🖨️ My 3D Printing Gear: kit.co/AllYour...
Modular Hydroponic Tower Files: www.printables...
Complete list of parts and 3d models used to create your own Hydroponic Tower: kit.co/AllYour...
It has been almost a month since I setup my 3d printed hydroponic tower. In that time I have printed a second tower, and learned a ton of lessons along the way. In this video I cover water PH, how to add new plants to the system, signs to watch for as far as plant health, and other tips to ensure you have a successful journey.
General Hydroponics Maxigro and Maxibloom Fertilizer: geni.us/BI1hrD
VIVOSUN pH and TDS Meter Combo: geni.us/ZB8V
General Hydroponics pH Control Kit: geni.us/0N8XhRP
Rockwool Grow Cubes: geni.us/bKYaVm
3000 Pre-Fed Live Ladybugs: geni.us/8u8z
Infinite repeat cycle timer plug: geni.us/oAtH
VIVOSUN 800GPH Submersible Pump: geni.us/y8krA
3/8" ID 1/2" OD Clear Vinyl Tubing-25 Ft: geni.us/VgmElP
5 gallon bucket: geni.us/UIAAhJl
OVERTURE PETG Filament: geni.us/g1sC
Hydroponics tower 3d printer files: www.printables...
5 Gallon bucket adapter files: www.thingivers...
The lid uses 18 M3x6 bolts and nuts to fasten everything together.
One piece of advice for preventing sunburn and heat stress on your plants you moved from inside, to outside. Seedlings need to be conditioned and this is usually done in a greenhouse for about two weeks in a commercial nursery. In your case though, All you need to do is have "starter towers" and "finisher towers". The starter towers should have 30% shadecloth draped over them for about a week or two. This allows those plants to acclimate to the sunlight and not get burned. Now move the pots to the "finisher tower" for growth and fruiting. This frees up your starter tower, with shadecloth over it to move your next set of seedlings into for acclimation.
There are so many videos of people who get great results that move their plants directly from inside to outside and have zero problems. Hoocho is one such guy. He lives in Australia and moves his plants directly outside with no "transition" period. I also move my plants directly outside and have been tending a garden for over 20 years and never had an issue doing so. Just a counter point to what you're saying.
I have been doing DIY hydroponics for a few years and have learned a lot. You explain a lot of this very clearly and anyone that watches this will save a lot of time and headache listening to these basic steps. Congrats!
Thank you, I appreciate that. Always trying to learn! Would love to hear any tips you might have as well
Been running tower gardens for a few years now. 15 min on and 30 off works indoors under lights but 15 on and 15 off is the best outdoors. Many plants will extend roots into the bucket but you don't want the roots to excessively dry. Also keep an eye on the nutrient solution temperature. It can get too hot or cold because the bucket size is small.
A video on mixing nutrients & emptying/refilling your water reservoir would be really helpful to see if you have the time :)
I second this! That would be awesome!
this channel seems to have died.. i was thinking of making this video though, but im just starting out and learning myself! @@StephinitelyMaybe
I imagine you could also get a pre grown plant from a nursery and cut different stems from it to grow individually, thus multiplying your yields.
Super dope, great update garden looks great
Much appreciated
to prevent leaking ad staining in the seams of the modular pieces, plumber's tape might help
Nice work clean setup better looking than most hydroponic setup the wife must be happy
Where did you get those giant pots that the whole system is sitting in? I want some just like it for the one I printed.
Would you be interested in providing a new update to this? How were the veggies once you got some from it? Etc.?
more than likely cucumbers and tomatoes failed: they need their own 5gal buckets...
@@romeoneverdies i have made a few of these 3d printed systems the past few years. Tomatoes wont "fail" but they wont do vary well either. A DWC bucket with a guide rope is about all you need for tomatoes. Vary simple setup, black 5 gal bucket, netcup lid and a air stone. About the same with cucumbers just use trellis nets. Towers are better suited for things like lettuce, generally things that would also work in smaller NFT system
Really cool system. Do you still use the 5 gallon bucket? What is the white planter that you are using as the base?
I want to know the same thing :C
Great video follow up! Thanks
Thanks for watching!
love your work, also great idea using a pot
Thank you so much, i'm glad you like it.
You embarrassed those plants by showing everyone their roots publicly on social media!!! 🤯🤯🤯
hahah!
seems to be working pretty well.
Taste is even better!
I live in Denver too and just built this system! Great video, thanks!
That's awesome, hope it is doing well for you (indoors I imagine haha)
in the previous video you mention rockwool, that has a ph of 8.0 which always needs to be counteracted and when replacing water as well. Many people think that it is neutralized permanently, but its just in the water environment.
I would avoid those fully printed locking netcups, root mass will shatter/delaminate them easily and they are just not cost effective. There are a few remixed adapters designed to use normal netcup all over the place. Outside of that, go with black filament for the towers and paint them with white to keep temps down. Light creeping in will cause algae issues after awhile.
Good points to call out. I ended up reprinting the tower in green. Looks better, keeps the light out, and still stays cool. I need to try some alternative netcups.
Hey, Brian. Your design is very cool. Have you thought about printing a pump?)
I’ve definitely thought about it. Maybe my next project :)
What about the plastic leaching into the water and essentially, your food? It happens faster at higher temp. We probably are running on 5% plastic blood content anyway thanks to the invention of plastic drinking storage and cups etc. Should have stuck with glass.
Nice Hydroponic Setup! Continuing to follow your Channel.👩🏾🌾👨🏾🌾🏡🌱🌱🍆🍆
thinking of doing this myself
Hoping for an update on your systems
I can attest that White Vinegar, nor Baking Soda, is a good idea as it has absolutely no buffers to them so you bring down, or up, the pH to 5.8 to wake up in the morning to 7.5. As soon as you use the pH up, or down, it stays around 5.8. I was so hoping that baking soda, and/or white vinegar would work.
you need them to be dilluted into water first... then also mix it again very well into your nutrient solution.
@@romeoneverdies Nope, no matter how you do it they are not a good thing for plants that are longer than just lettuce to maturity. The plants eat and shit out stuff that plays with the pH. I ditched them as fast as I could after reading about them from some university horticultural department write-ups.
Thanks for sharing!
@@ALLYOURTECH3DP
The problem with baking soda is the sodium (Na). After the plant uptakes sodium it takes over the role normally performed by potassium (K), unfortunately these two elements are not the same and the growth will suffer greatly. Its easy to avoid, just make a diluted solution of potassium hydroxide (aka, KOH , caustic potash), you can buy it as flakes. Be aware that most tap water contains sodium, which can causae the same issue especially if you dont replace the reservoir very often. If you are using tap water with a high calcium carbonate ppm, i`d suggest using nitric acid PH down not the more common phosphoric acid. The nitric will react with the calcium carbonate to form calcium nitrate which the plants can use. Phosphoric acid + calicum carbonate will produce calcium phosphate, which is insoluble in water and therefore unavailable to the plants.
I bought an Ender 5Pro in order to develop a prototype for an invention, and then was bitten hard by the 3d printer adventure! I started printing that inferior sytems from Thingiverse before spotting this one. I've already printed half of it in white, but may keep it indoors, so I might not have a green problem. When I look across the internet generally at hydroponic towers built by the 3D folks, I always see everyone mixing up their types of plants! I would think that you'd be much better off growing one type of plant in the entire tower. I'm going to try all romaine lettuce in my first tower, and then try all strawberries in my 2nd. I know that strawberries won't mind the angled opening and will dangle down. Not certain what romaine will do. I went to Ace Hardware and picked up a 5 gallon White Bucket, and will be going to harbor freight to pick up one of their small framed roller stands, so I can turn the tower and move it, if so desired. I bought the harbor frieght 260 g/p/h pond pump for this project. I am going to search for an inexpensive timer as well. I took the part that fits under the lid down to Ace, to get 7 feet of plastic Vinyl tubing, and the nozzle on the 3d printed part broke off! LOL! I'm going to drill out the hole in the center and utilize a threaded tube and keep it in place with a thing nut on both sides. It was a learning curve, moving from PLA to PETG and I've become much better with nozzle and bed temp than I was when I printed some of the early stuff! Yes, I'm using PETG for the tower parts! By the way, before I forget, I really like you video! You should be able to spray over your neighbor's roof with that 800 GPH pump! Matbe you should drain his pool while he's at church? LOL!
What settings did you use for the ender 5 pro?
@@jonathanbunnell2325 I printed PETG at 218-222 and the bed at 80, with PLA 190-200 and 65 PLA is an absolute home run. I find PETG you have to really watch. The biggest problem I've had with PETG is getting it to stick to the bed. I've used multiple layers of glue stick.
I have heard white may let light through allowing algae to grow. It may be better to print black then paint white.
I'm actually printing a new tower in green. I think it looks better, and also blocks the light as you mentioned.
Aeroponics, not hydro. The roots of your plants live primarily in the air and have water thrown at them. In hydroponics, the roots live in water to which we add extra oxygen if needed.
Great job!
Thanks for the correction! I'm just getting started with this type of setup, and learn something new every day :)
Thats interesting, my rodi unit water is at 7.5 ph.
Did you use the standard brass nozzle or did you update to a stainless steel nozzle. I’ve read concerns about the brass nozzle wearing down and not being “food safe”. Seems to me it would be so minor it wouldn’t be a concern?
I just use brass nozzles still. THe high print temperatures should eliminate any potential bacteria in the filament or the printer, so that has never been much of a concern for me.
For your timer settings, you need timing in minutes, or better seconds.
I normally do about 5 minutes on and 20 minutes off. That seems to be sufficient for my climate.
I wish the holes for the net cups were smaller so I can utilize my aerogarden to start my seeds.
Why not stick a pool noodle in the opening and that hole in the middle should adapt it down to the right size
I really love your channel! Please give me the name of the printer filament that you used? Hope it is save for food, thank you for all your advice. Watching from South Africa
Thank you Daniel! I use Zyltech PETG for the most part. PETG is typically used in things like water bottles, so it should be the safest bet for projects like this. It also holds up well in the sun and heat.
@@ALLYOURTECH3DP PETG for the most part is safe depending on developer but the problem comes when using your printer for anything else! A lot of studies have shown the cross contamination of different filaments running through a hot end and leaving behind chemicals that get into other projects. Just a helpful FYI.
This is pretty cool. Have you had any issues with algae on the inside of the towers? Been growing kratky for years - found this video an hour ago, already 1/4 way in printing four of the jiffy pots. Looking forward to getting it going. Thanks.
Asking about algae for petg color. All my kratky tubs are black to avoid algae.
I ended up going with dark green for my towers after these initial prints, and haven’t had an issue so far
Hello Brian, I printed your suggested towers.. The 3/4 pot sections have a SCREEN in the bottom. How did you get those LONG ROOTS in the tower with the screen there?
quick tip ... dont plant tomatoes nor cucumbers in these : their root system will fill the bucket. cucumbers and tomatoes need about 5-10 gal of water to go trough their seasonal cycle. about the same for cucumbers. the problem you get is these towers are too small for their root system. if you want to grow tomatoes they grow well in their own 5gal bucket with the kratky method... you will just need to progressively refill when you get about half way. (in the fruiting period it will start to drain pretty quick. ) these are great for various lettuce and small plants however.
I've done tomatoes for 2 seasons in this now, and they did great. Pulled off at least twice as many tomatoes as my raised garden beds.
@@ALLYOURTECH3DP I was worried about the roots too, but because of the small diameter of the towers. But if they're working for you, great. I've grown tomatoes, eggplant and sugar baby water melons in a Foody hydroponic tower. I've been looking to 3d print my own, so thanks for these videos. Keep growing!
@@ALLYOURTECH3DP Do you have a fence or anything to hold your tomatoes up with? Or do you just keep them in the system as is?
Where did u get those bases from? They look great
Thank you! Picked those up at CB2
hows this stuff going, are you still using it? would be great to see what its like a year on!
Definitely. On my 3rd growing season now. I did just take the towers down because we're moving, but gave one to my friend, and another to my parents. Once they are back up and running i'll do an update.
This seems more like an aeroponic system FYI but nice work.
Where did you get those white planters? Is your 5 gallon bucket just sitting inside of it?
I got them at CB2. They have a white version and a smaller black version I believe. The buckets just sit inside and make it look nicer overall.
In going to the thingaverse site where the part files I am seeing allot of various pieces. Is there of list of which parts and files you built your system from?
I live in a Freedom state so I just collect rainwater for low pH base material.
Hey! I've gathered the materials for this build and plan to start this weekend! Are you able to rotate new seed starters into the pods as you harvest the fully grown pods, or do you only get one harvest from a pod per/ season? What's the harvest cycle time? I'm new to gardening in general so I'm not sure how productive the tower can be so any information is appreciated!
The best answer here is probably “it depends”. Are you planning on growing indoors or outdoors? What types of plants do you plan to grow? What growing or climate zone are you in?
Generally speaking I’ve been able to grow year round here in Colorado (outside in the summer, and inside in the winter). My tomatoes go crazy and produce a ton of fruit when outside. I tend to grow things like lettuce and herbs inside because I don’t have good grow lights yet.
Exciting to see you starting on the journey!
Nice you have a Reef tank too? Do you put the full RODI water or the waste water from the RODI system?
What is you bucket setup? It looks really nice.
The Bucket top Adapter appears to be 1 lid not in sections. Is there a file for the sliced one for smaller print tables?
ever try the copper rod in the water thing?
With moving plants from soil to the pots, did you still put rock wool in the pot? Or did you just thread the roots in by themselves?
Is there a chance we could get an update please?
do you start the water at low ppm and build from there with the Nutreance
Ph question. We have a hot tub. Can we use the same ph up and ph down chemicals ??
I'm a bit late in seeing this and someone may have already asked so I apologize if this is a repeat question but do you still need the rockwool cubes if you get a plant that was started in dirt and is being transitioned to a hydro system like this?
I only use the cubes for seeds, or very small starter plants. Otherwise you are good to just drop the plant right in. (Great question)
@@ALLYOURTECH3DP Thanks for the reply.
What about plastics oxidation over time, entering your food plants?
I will be new to 3D printing, mechanically and electronically savvy, what printer would you suggest? I’m thinking about creating your hydroponic system and wish to have a printer that will last for some time.
fastest best and easiest printer for any filament (for hydroponics I use PETG) is the Bambu Labs X1 Carbon, I have only highest of praises for this machine it is truly a marvel.
everyone says for the 3 part it takes 12 hours. Bambu Labs machine got it down to 6 hours each segment with perfect walls and no holes, absolutely flawless.
I wanted to try print this one but, seeing 1 modules will took 21 hrs to print hold me up for now until I get a 0.8mm nozzles, but cool stuff
Bambu Labs is 6 hours with a .4 nozzle no holes no gaps i can show pics or start a channel to show.
The big white pot that holds the bucket did you 3D print it or buy it... if so what's the brand of it
It looks 3d printed which is why I thought it was cool. It's actually a pot I purchased from CB2. They have them in black and in white. bit.ly/3LxEBKJ
Ooh, that's a pretty bucket, but pricey. Maybe I'll buy a local large cheap planter and place the 5 gallon bucket in it, if the planter can't hold water. Or use silicon to plug or a pond liner.
How many gallons do you normally keep in the bucket?
I noticed there are different set-ups that can be printed, i.e. 1, 2, 3, or 4 plants per piece. And there are 3-4 different pieces listed for each number. Can you tell us what the differences are between the pieces? For example: 1-Way_Planting_Module_Hollow_Without... and then I noticed there are different file sizes. Or what are the differences between OESTLIG_Plant_Pot_12_12_Adapter.... and OESTLIG_Plant_Pot_13_12_Adapter....?
Is the plastic for the 3D printing BPA free? Would the plastic leach into the water and therefore the plants?
Would you mind sharing the (cura?) settings you used for this Overature PETG? I bought the same but have been finding mixed reviews on what settings to use for the Ender 5 pro (w/ 0.4mm Micro Swiss hardened steel nozzle). Any help or test print suggestions are welcomed!
I see oter people have mentioned 2 hours off is probably too much for indoors in the AC. Id do 15min on, 30min off.
Where did you get that planting pot?
What are you using for your 3D printer?
Prusa MK3S
Would lemon or limes juice adjust the PH? I was thinking of doing this system as a gift for my sisters, both who have extra fruits from their trees. SoCal area has 8+PH water. Would UV light in reservoir help or hinder?
How many gallons per hour does the pump need to be
12 month update?
24 month?
Does anyone know how much the power bill goes up to run the the pump? I was looking to make this for Mother’s Day but don’t want my grandma to just have a higher bill due to it.
With a timer this should only cost a dollar or two per year to run.
Nutrient 🔐 out ain't no joke😂
Why not double the height of the towers?
YOu can definitely play around with height. I have one that is 10 segments tall in my home office. Outside I was more concerned with stability with wind, rain, etc. There are models out there with extra side bits you could thread metal support rods though which may help there.
did you print this in ASA ?
PETG
Update to this video?
I'll try to do one this week :)
When the tomatoes set fruit the branches wont be able to support the weight.
I’ve pulled dozens of tomatoes off of the plants so far. It has been completely fine
@@ALLYOURTECH3DP
I`m surprised, gravity tends to win when you have long branches and heavy fruit. I planted one of my towers with 35 dwarf toms that were only supposed to get a foot tall that topped out at 2.5ft. I dont grow tomatoes in the towers anymore :)
Depending on variety you may have to support. I had vining type hit about 13 ft. Try to use bush type variety
@@nicholastaylor8289
A dwarf determinate is the best type for a tower. Determminates fruit tends to ripen all at once over a few weeks where indeterminates provide a steady supply
mmm, look at you in your nice little house! i sure wish i had bought one of these in Denver about three years ago... Thought that the prices were ridiculous back then, was hoping the pandemic would fix something.. Boy, am i stupid!
We live in a 3rd world country now.. If you think otherwise, please, ask your kids! Damn boomers, and their voting habits..
Your audio is out of sync.
Brian: "Be wary of using something like black cuz of heat issues"
Also Brian: Continues to use black net cups
Haha! Fair. In this case I used PETG rather than PLA, so melting is no longer a concern at least. :)
I plan on printing in black PETG for light occlusion, then painting white for light reflectance and reduction in infrared to heat conversion. If I print cups, I'd keep black for the looks. I do like the look of those knobs.
@@GregoryCarrier That is what I tell everyone to do. Paint black to obstruct the light then let it dry to paint white over the black to reflect the light away so less heating effect.