Vintage Sunbeam Mixmaster Model 12 Maintenance and service. Long and detailed
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- In this video we perform maintenance and service on a 1950s'-60's Sunbeam Mixmaster Model 12 that sat for a few years and had multiple repairs that needed to be made. In the end she ran great!
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Thanks for restoring the beautiful mixer for its owner
Appreciate you sharing your expertise with us. I have a 1950 model 12 and found your tutorial most helpful. Being up in the Himilayas technicians are few and far between. Hope my results are as good as your😂
These videos are SO FUNN.
I'm collecting these mixers will be great to know how to restore them!! Thank you!
Yes we must preserve these
thank you for showing the who repair and soldering of the wires as my mom had a old model 3 that died and the replacement is a model 10 that needs a couple of things replaced on it .
We talked about a mixer that just hummed. I'm sorta mechanically inclined and feel I can follow your lead with my mixer. May need a source for a resister, but not that far yet. Thanks for the narrative, it helps a lot as there are a lot of small stuff that need accounting for. My experience with taking things apart started at age 4 when I took apart sdad's alarm clock. Mom stroked out, but when notified of my transgression, dad simply said he could just buy another clock.
Great info !
Thanks so much for uploading!
I would like to thank this gentleman for his videos. I asked about changing the cord on a 1960 sunbeam and he helped me to be able to do so without any problem. I truly appreciate this man and his videos!
absolutely beautiful!! My mother-in-law (96 years old) is going to love the fact that we cared enough to have this done. Thank you!!!
Thank you too! It turned out great :) This is the link to your actual mixer ua-cam.com/video/uaKlUWUvmj8/v-deo.html
I'm semi retired. I'm in charge of small appliances at a non-profit thrift store. I see items that are amasing. I really admire the engineering and design.
I agree, a lot to admire!
Thank you very much. I have two of these to fix. I grew up using one and I want them to use. I hope I can do all these techniques you demonstrated.
Im sure you can!
Your point about mom & pop (local business) is truly correct! Cheapest is not always best!
Thank you for the video right now I'm taking mine apart and I thought there was a bearing toward the rear but it looks like just a bushing that needs oiled hopefully this will take care of my problem if it's slowing down but I'm regreasing everything and taking the whole thing apart anyway. I could not have done this without your videos thank you again.
Hi Paul, that's awesome!! Yes, these just have bushings front and rear, the rear having a bushing with an oil wick and sometimes can get pretty dry. Good luck!!
in the case of cleaning that gummed on stuff, carb cleaner or electrical contact cleaner from the automotive section will work great on that stuff, you will need to reoil/grease when you use that stuff, but dang does it cut through that grime
also trying to source replacement resistors is kind of a pain in the butt for these
Thanks great to see how its done. I love these machines and nice to see them fixed up to live again.
I can't find a model# on mine. Works great. Looking for a meat grinder attachment. Has 10 speeds. Looks just like the one you're working on. I found it at a thrift store.
You should see the model # on the bottom cord connection cover. Nice find!
Great video! What is the name of the reddish synthetic grease that is used here? Thanks
That is Lucas Oil Red and Tacky, very high quality lithium based grease! Thanks!
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 Awesome, thank you sir!
Hi, Rick, I hope you're doing well. I just finished a maintenance detail on a model 12 for my sister for a gift. Thanks again for all the videos!
Hey Jim, thanks! Thats awesome!!!
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 One more thing. How tight do I set the screw that holds the front cover on? the one that pushes against the long spring that goes against the armature with that tiny black plastic cylinder in it. Thanks.
@@JimWatsonTheframingMagician tighten it right up, it will seat fully, it is not an adjustment. Hope that helps!
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 Thanks again Rick.
@@JimWatsonTheframingMagician you bet!
Hi Rick. !33:10 I don't understand how you so easily slide those long bolts through the backplate and are able to line them up so that they are lined up to go into the threaded hole. I line up the oil hole in the backplate with the hole in the body and the bolts will still go on through the backplate and land to the side of the threaded hole. I can't see through there so that I can line them up visually.
Hi Jim, they have to be perfectly straight going in, and if the field coil was removed, it has to be reinstalled with the holes in the coil perfectly lined up with the threaded holes in the housing. Also, a lot of practice lol.
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 I find it astonishing that something could be so piss-poorly designed!! There should be a clear un-obstructed guided path that lines the bolt up with the hole with no way to miss the hole. You don't know you've missed until the bolt won't tighten then you can't get a hold of it because the head set's to far into the recess to get your fingers on it. A rare-earth magnet ought to do the trick. Thanks again and I hope you're getting this health issue figured out. Keep us posted.
@@JimWatsonTheframingMagician Thanks! Almost forgot, a little trick I use is to start the field coil into the housing, then put the screws in then finish setting the coil in the housing. When it is fully seated you can remove the screws and the holes in the coil will be perfectly aligned.
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 Thanks Rick.
@@JimWatsonTheframingMagician You bet!
Hello I know you don’t repair these any longer but I was wondering do you still have any left over stock of them little plastic thrust pieces that go in the front of these model 12’s that sit on the front of the armeture behind that spring? I am servicing my late mom’s machine and it unknowingly got thrown out with the old greese. If so I would like to buy one from you since this machine has allot of sentimental value and I don’t want to run it without that piece in place.
Hi, tell me I have a 220v mixmaster 12. I lost the resistor and the capacitor what values does both the resistor and the capacitor have for my sunbeam I just need the values to make it work. Thanks for your reply.
I do not know if you're still up and running but I have a question if you are. I'm cleaning the front end of a Mixmaster Model 12 and the grease is NASTY. Can brake cleaner be used on the nylon gears to clean them off? Thank you for the two very informative videos that I watched.
Very instructional videos! Much appreciated! I am attempting to restore a Model 10A for my wife. The resistor looks like a piece of charcoal so I want to replace it. Do you have any resistors for a 10A for sale or know a good source for one? Thank you in advance!
Also current reading on resistor is =/= 255 ohms. And mixer just humms when power is applied.
thanks for your excellent video help I would like to ask some model of mixers that fit in this one since my mother has this model 12 works perfect but she lost her mixers and I do not know how to look for them since in Ebay they promote them with another model number although they are physically they look like the ones I used
Thanks! The model 10,, 11, and 12 are all very similar, with some cosmetic differences. Check this link to see the different models of mixmasters ! www.decodan.com/Sunbeam-ID
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 thank you for your help but the problem it's that I only find mixers with another model number like 2372,2472,2471 this mixers fit in the 12 Mixmaster model sorry for my bad inglish
No worries! :) I think the ones you are referring to are all newer sunbeam mixers, far newer than the model 12. When you search ebay, try to search for model 10 or model 11 for models like the model 12. Sometimes you have to be specific, and there may not be a lot listed where you are also, so you may have to search all of ebay. The US ebay always has a lot of the model 12 and the 10's and 11's . Hope this helps!
I was wondering where do you buy the replacement motor brushes for this mixer.
Hi,, You can sometimes find them in your local hardware store if they have bins of assorted items, I order mine from carbonbrush.com , the ones I buy are on this page, scroll down till you see 414 www.carbonbrush.com/nolead.htm
Thanks a great deal for the video. My wife and I were able to repair her sunbeam mixer with ease thanks to you. One question. What is the grease you use for the gears? I thought of using white lithium grease but I'm weary of using that grease in an appliance that deals with food. I'm also wary that it would get too runny and contaminate the food. That would be bad. I live in Canada so I may not be able to find the same brand. I'll take the brand so that I can do a search equivalent but I would like the caracteristics as well (such as compoisition if possible). Again, thanks a whole lot for the video.
Didn't notice that I was using my wife account. Should have written my husband (me) and I. Too funny.
Hi, and thanks! I'm glad it helped you guys out! I use the red grease, which is also a lithium based grease, but I'm not sure about the consistency of the white lithium grease, or how it would hold its consistency when warm, so I cant really answer that. The grease I use is the Lucas Oil brand, red and tacky, and I believe it is available in Canada. Here is the SDS for that brand lucasoil.com/pdf/SDS_Red-Tacky-10005.pdf .
Some people prefer to use the kitchenaid grease which is considered food safe, but I know does break down and lose consistency when warm, here is the SDS for that sds.chemtel.net/docs/Fuchs%20Lubricants%20Co-0002505/Fuchs%20Lubricants%20Company_RENOLIT%20BENALENE%20930-2_Unknown_11-21-2016_English.pdf
In my opinion, the only time it would matter is if it were to run out and into the food your mixing. The older organic based grease sunbeam used would break down over time as well, and would leak down into the bottom of the beater shafts and ejector.
Hope this helps!
I love my Model 12, but I need help with the base. The turntable isn't right.
As in it is not the right turntable? or doesnt turn?
Hi! HELP PLZ!!! I bought a beauty vintage stainless set up from thrift store. Works great..BUT..first use..Insect piece fell out ..ACK!! So Ive partially disassembled to clean any other bodies ..found cple .BUT..My problom..is when tapping/blowing out..a skinny "pin" fell out...I have NO CLUE where it goes! Small, thin..round on one end..flat on ither..PLZ help! Where does it go??
I'm not sure, replying to your message on facebook now!
I did not see a reply for your PIN but I'm taking my mixer apart right now and that flat end round end pin came from the speed control area. I think it came out when I pulled the speed dial off. Did not see a reply I'm sure you already had one from way back when.
these old mixers have served 50 60 years of service where the new Sunbeam mixers are junk I heard a lot of the new ones cannot be repaired.
This is true, the engineers should be very proud of what they accomplished as far as longevity. Today they take pride in planned obsolescence.. very sad.
Precisely the reason why I just purchased one of these oldies and another one for parts that I will get my hands dirty on after viewing this great video, after the newer one I purchased a few years ago, not realizing it was a chinese clone, conked out after a few actual hours of running time.
Thank you for these great videos - I have been replacing all my kitchen appliances with pre-70s era stuff precisely for that reason: planned obsolescence, a phenomenon that started in the 70s when bankers took over our economy.
Love your video love to get mine serviced some day do you service them for a price? Would be nice to send you mine to clean and get new grease and checked if not still love your video
Hi Sam, yes I do, and thanks!!! You can contact me through my facebook page :) link is in the description!
Hi, di you do repairs? My mixer has been sitting for 2 years. The Dough Hooks are stuck and I can't release. Help me...
Thanks for this great video - where would someone look to get replacement gears? I notice with dismay they are plastic so presumably you would see quite a few that are chipped or worn out...
Thanks! Honestly I have only had to replace one gear because it had 1 messed up tooth that caused it to make a knocking sound, they are quite durable. Best bet would probably be ebay to pick up a whole motor assembly for parts, sometimes you can get them pretty reasonable. Also check local auction listings
Thank you for your reply - I was dismayed because the newer 'Heritage' model I had before this machine conked out precisely because of stripped gears that, as you probably know, is part of completely clipped together plastic gearbox assembly obviously not designed to be repaired >:-(
Were there any earlier models that didn't use plastic gears, but perhaps shear pins instead?
In any case, thanks to your great video, I was able to take my 'new' model 12 apart and get it back to working condition - it was sold to me with missing speeds, which required careful bending of the speed regulating spring and contact sanding with of course, oiling and greasing (using semi fluid grease).
It was a great way to spend my birthday, getting the satisfaction to put an appliance about as old as myself back in service and appreciating the great quality that used to be the hallmark of industry back in those days, when things were done with pride than the pursuit of shareholder profit like is so prevalent today.
Yea the newer ones are a different story, planned obsolescence and all that :)
Hi Johnny, sorry I have just seen this comment. Congrats on getting your machine working, that's awesome!! As far as gears, a lot of the earlier models had fiber gears, which I believe is a fiber and resin gear, but pretty durable! I know the HB's use a metal gear in a lot of their machines, but I don't believe I have seen any with a shear pin as the sacrificial part.
Hey, I have a sunbeam mixmaster, it is newer than this one, it's probably from the 80s. It does not start working until probably number 4 or 5. The other problem that's huge is that sometimes when you touch the body (which is shiny silver metal) when it's running, it will actually shock you! Not like a harmful shock, but maybe like one of those shocking pens or something. And it doesn't go away, it stays continuously "electrified" I guess you could call it. Even if you touch the bowl while it's in that shocking mood, it will shock you because the current goes through the beaters and electrifies the bowl as well. I'd really appreciate and suggestions or guidance you could offer me. Thanks so much.
Hi Dominic, it sounds like you definitely have a short somewhere. It could be right at where the cord connects, since that is protruding through the body of the mixer. As far as the speed problem, I would say its one of 2 things.. it is somehow out of adjustment, or it has drag so bad that the motor cant overcome it until the dial is at that speed. Another possibility is the short, I guess current could be taking the path of least resistance and not all of it is going to the motor reducing its power. You could separate the 2 halves of the body and see if you can see anything obvious with it.
I've got another question.......I replaced the cord without any hassle and greased and oiled what needed to be done, opening the casing, cleaning out the old gunky junk, etc....and it seems alot happier! The problem I'm having is (guessing only) with the resister in the back? It's pretty ugly and has some greenish corrosion on both tips and the whitish part is pretty gray/charcoal. The general capacitor appears to be very clean, yet the machine seems like it's running on steroids or something, because it's really fast and then you hear this screeching sound like a mini saw, which seems like metal to metal is hitting inside! As I turn to the speed knob slowly, it's the same sound for all.
So my question is, what other parts, etc....should I check out for this issue?
Much appreciated and thank you once again sir for such informative and learning videos!!
Virginia
So do you mean the speed doesnt change when you turn the knob? If so that is usually the capacitor shorted and needs to be replaced. The resistor may or may not be good, you can clean off the ends with some sandpaper, and test it with an ohmeter, it should be around 180 ohms. If it is more or less, it will arc more than it should, and affect the speed to some degree. Anotehr thing that can cause the speed to not change, and make a lot of noise is the pin on the back of the armature melting through the plastic cup on the back of the speed control assembly. Let me know what happens when you check those things!
I have a model 12 that was my mother's and it's in wonderful shape,but I lost the turn table,do you know where I could get one?
Check ebay, I see them posted there quite often
Thanks for the video.
Where would I find a replacement resistor for the model 12? I'm in the midst of fixing/cleaning one up for an elderly woman in my neighborhood. It's also got a gouged out armature at two points, but she's ok with that.
I think the resistor really needs replacing, but with out knowledge of the ohmage, I don't know where to look.
Could you please help me?
Andy
Hey Andy! The resistor is a 180 ohm 10 watt wirewound resistor. I replace it with a 180 ohm 5 watt, and just adjust the lowest speed up a little bit as they can not handle the same temps as a 10 watt, but the only 10 watt wire wound resistors I have been able to find are just a little too big to fit.
@@vintagemixersandmore1666
Thank you. Once I get things assembled again, I will keep that in mind.
Do you know the approximate dimensions of the small black plastic plug that fits in the threaded internal nose-plate of the machine? Where a clicky-pen type spring fits in, finally to receive another spring and screw...to secures the front.
Do you know what I am talking about?
I lost that tiny bit. I think I can same one, though. Just need the dimensions.
@@fishan435543 I dont recall the dimensions off hand, but I have heard that others have used plastic, bamboo, or brass. I will be working on a model 12 this coming week, if I remember, I will try to get the dimensions of it. If you still have whatever you put the old grease in laying around, check that, a lot of times it will end up in the old grease.
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 Thanks again. About this tiny black thing: What does it rest against? Is it pinched up against the worm-gear/auger dive-shaft of the armature? Or is there a small ledge in the hole? I'm trying to cut a bit off of a chopstick to suffice. Would that work?
PS: My resistor seems fine.
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 Basically, does it fit through the hole on the back of the nose plate? Does it go all the way through?
I have several vintage mixers. I have taken apart and rebuilt 3 of them. How much wpuld it cost to have one repaired and powder coated?
Hi Jennifer, This should answer any questions you have, if not then give me a shout! facebook.com/notes/vintage-mixers-and-more/new-price-list-effective-5162018/2406026369423000/
This is so great. Thank you. We are following carefully even though we have a Model 11, and everything was moving along well when suddenly, around the time we pried out the catheters a little tiny piece resembling what you put the toilet paper roll on fell, much to my husband's dismay. We have no idea where it came from. Any thoughts would be very appreciated.
I don't know but I remember there being a pin involved. He talked about it in one of his videos.
Is there another video that shows the wiring in more detail? Also what tool did you use to adjust the speed control?
I used a small allen wrench to adjust the speed, Im not sure the exact size, I trued a few small ones till I found one that fit. I do show the wiring in more detail in several other videos, I think you can see it clearer in the video titled model 12 maintenance long and detailed.
I am a fan of the bit more modern "MMA" design of these, but I found a model 12 in one of our local thrift stores complete with milk glass bowl and beaters the other day for 5 bucks - I could not pass it up. The outer casing of the cord was hard as a rock and broke when bent, but it did power on and go through all speeds smoothly. I am looking forward to getting it torn down and cleaned up. It has a slightly more heavy-duty feel to it, probably due to a completely metal case. Definitely going to be referencing your video for this one. Thanks again for these videos and your time!
Your welcome, I'm hoping the video will help! That sounds like a great find, unfortunately the cords usually do tend to be shot after this many years. Good news is the model 12's usually have a decent length wire from the coil, so it should be pretty easy to access it for the new cord. Do you plan on doing any video of the project? That would be great to see! They do have a bit more heft than the MMA models, although they don't pack quite as much power. Holler at me if you have any questions, thanks!
Awesome vid. This helped me repair a model 7B. Would you have a source for replacement milk white bowls?
I thoroughly enjoyed watching your instructional video. I have a Sunbeam Mixmaster model 10, and the inside looks the same as the model 11 that you repaired in the video. So far I have cleaned out all the old grease and replaced with a high quality synthetic grease. I'll admit that mine was not full of flour when I removed the back dial! I'd like to know where I can get the carbon brushes, capacitor, and the resistor? I'd like to have the spare parts if ever I need them. Do you get them from mixers that you use for spare parts?
Thank you for great video, I am going to finish cleaning mine.
That's awesome to hear! I get my brushes from my local hardware store, I'm lucky to have one with a good selection. The capacitors I buy from nelsonezy.com , he makes new replacement capacitors. Resistors I have to use ones from parts machines, although I am just about out now. They are the hardest item to source since no one makes them new. You can also get new brushes from nelsonezy if you cant find them locally. I use 3/16 x 3/16 x 9/16 brushes, that size works for the sunbeams and the Hamilton beach.
What about Dave's repair service. I sourced a resistor for my model 12. I'm not sure if it was used but it almost looked like new.
I have a shout out to him in an upcoming video, I just received some capacitors I ordered from him this time. Looks like same quality but a little lower price. I did look to buy some resistors from Daves before but he was out, on his webpage he says he recoated them. I wish someone would make new resistors!
I have just retired and this looks like something I would enjoy doing. I have watched enough of your videos that I think I could do this. Where do you order the feet for the stand? Thank you for the inspiration!
You definitely should! Its quite fun. I get them from ebay, you can usually order them in packs of 10 or 12. They are rubber bumpers, just search for the size you need. Most sunbeams are 5/8 x 5/8. Good luck!
I am wondering where I can order one of those ceramic resistor? (the upper one) My unit smells like its burning when in operation and when I took it apart the smell was coming from that part..
You should test it to see if it is indeed bad, using an ohmmeter you should have 180 ohms (+ or - 10) , if it reads good, it may be getting too hot from the speed adjusted too low. If it is indeed bad, you can check with Dave at www.davesrepair.com to see if he has any good resistors in stock. They are a very hard part to find.
thanks for the reply. Dave does not have any resistor right now, but he doesn't think that is the problem because they can withstand a lot of heat. I haven't tested it yet though. If it is the speed adjusted too low, how would I go about repairing that?
There is a hole in the cap at the back, that lines up with the pin that pushes against the speed control assembly, it lines up when the speed is at #1 , you need a small allen wrench to slip in the hole, engage the adjuster, and turn it until the speed increases slightly. This may not be the problem, but the resistors do get scorching hot if it is adjusted too low. Also if there is a build up of flour on the resistor, it can also smell once it gets hot. These machines should only be run on the lowest 2 speeds for a minute, any longer and the resistor does get hot. If the machine has a lot of drag on the motor, that can also cause the motor to generate excessive heat.
the allen key trick seems to have really helped with the smell, and just using it at a higher speed in general. Thanks so much :)
Awesome, I'm glad it helped! These are great machines, but they are old and getting to the point where they need a little tlc or they may start to protest with smells and sounds lol.
My mom gave me the Model 12 that she got as a wedding gift in 1958. I’ve had it in storage for a very long time. I’ve watched a few of your videos and took apart the front and back and cleaned things up and added the 3-N-1 Oil and everything is running fine. Unfortunately the power cord is no longer flexible. I bought a new power cord but the connections are something I’ve never seen. Your video has a power cord with 3 wires and you are soldering them which is something the average person doesn’t own nor has the skill to use even if they might have one. Can the screw on connectors be used? If so how do you get the blue shrunk on connectors off? Is a 3 wire cord with ground necessary? A video that show this would be helpful for all of us that need new power cords.
Question: I have Model 12C and pulled apart. On your video frame 10:32 you just pulled of the speed control. The pin coming off rotor arbor that slips through the reversed cap is straight. My has a glob of plastic or nylon ball on the end that's chewed up. Yours has nothing but a straight pin & looks longer than mine. Is there a replacement for this?
That's a bummer... that is the plastic piece that is part of the speed control assembly. You can remove it from the pin carefully, without pulling the pin from the armature, and you will have to replace the speed control plate either from a donor machine, or if you can find one on ebay.. sometimes salvagers will list those parts. Whatever you do, don't pull the pin out of the armature
I been thrilled by watching your awesome work on Sanbeam Classic model 12. I have midel 12C in chrome that need restoration as well. If you can please send in your email address. Thanks, Kirill S., Los Angeles, CA
I just discovered your page, and now see you are no longer doing these repairs. Do you have advice as to where to get the replacement parts?
Thank you for your time and instruction. You inspired me to tackle the restoration of a 10A which came out great and is running smoothly in my kitchen. I just picked up a pristine model 11 for $15 that I'm not sure what I'll do with, but I couldn't pass it up. I've found that a good source of these is shopgoodwill.com. The shipping cost is a factor depending where you live, but if someone wants to try a rebuild you can usually get a cheap one there.
Awesome, I'm glad to hear that! Thanks!!
My sunbeam Mixmaster heritage series model no 2351, tilt is stuck and I am helpless. Please help me how to repair it ?
I'm sorry, I am not familiar with that model at all. Is it metal or plastic, and does it tilt freely or do you need to push a pin or lever to allow it to tilt?
What do you use to clean all the grease?
If I am protecting the original finish, I just use dish soap. If refinishing, then you can use a chemical degreaser, or some TSP.
I bought a model 12 c at a used discount store locally for $1.00. It runs fast and I noticed that there is a speed control pin in your video. How can I get parts for this model?
I really liked your video.
Hi Larry! There really are no parts available to purchase outright anymore, with the exception of a new capacitor that can be bought from www.davesrepair.com or www.nelsonezy.com , most other parts will have to come from a donor machine, unless someone has parted one out and placed the parts on ebay. Other items like cords, feet, and brushes can be bought new online as well, but if you need the pin for the speed control, that would have to come from a donor mixer. DId you verify there is no pin? Many times a capacitor with a dead short can be the problem, it makes the mixer run at high speed only.
The pin is missing. When I use a tooth pick to act as the pin , I can vary the speed. The machine has the original power cord and is in like new condition.
The pin is missing. When I use a tooth pick to act as the pin , I can vary the speed. The machine has the original power cord and is in like new condition.
wow that's really strange that the pin is missing. You may be able to find one on ebay since there were a few people that cannibalized these machines to sell the parts, or might find another whole machine to use parts from for a good deal. The pin from any model 10, 11, or 12 will work.
I saw a sunbeam stand mixer newer than yours that only works on the fastest speed no matter where you set the power knob. How do you fix that?
Hi Brian, it is most likely the capacitor in the rear for the speed governor shorted out, replace it and it should have speed control back
So the capacitor is what regulates the different speeds when you turn the power knob to the different numbers? It does not matter what number you set it on since it always runs on the fastest speed. Where do you find the juicer, bowls and beaters for those old stand mixers?
Where do you find parts for the mixer? I also have a sunbeam mixer that does not lock the beaters in their sockets when you raise the black handle to the upright position. Can that be fixed?
I believe what the capactors function does is to filter the current in a way, to prevent excess arcing at the contact points. If it shorts out it acts the same way as connecting the points together, it bypasses them making it run at high speed. Look here for new capacitor www.davesrepair.com/Parts/10-2065Xcapacitor.htm
I order some parts online, others I pull from a collection of parts machines I have in the shop. If I see a cheap machine I will pick it up for parts, unless it is worth restoring. Resistors are very hard to come by, I would like to see someone make a new resistor for these like they do the capacitors.
Did you fix the mixer for the owner or is that yours?
This belonged to someone else, the videos are in part for the owners to see the process on their own machines, and in part for a sort of how to for others.
La mia es esta:www.walmart.ca/en/ip/sunbeam-mixmaster-classic-stand-mixer-2379-33/6000019636405
Pero no se como destaparle el frente, pienso que se va a partir.
eso es una nueva. Model 12 ha hecho en el ano 1960
Handy small appliance'are too complicated for me to even imagine taking apart that' "MANS" work if need be Ill look you up on facebook page
It looks overwhelming, but its really not that bad :)
What kind of grease do I buy and how much do I use (is the grease you use food grade)
Very good video but please try not to repeatedly say AHM AHM.
IT IS VERY BOTHERSOME