1:30 "After a half-hour you should see this thing" For me this part took _2 and a half hours to complete_ *And the rest of the photogrammetry took almost 6 hours* But still great tutorial, and it actually is REALLY addicting
Try 3DF ZEPHYR. It has a free version also which can do 50 images. Meshroom with 107 pics took 8 hrs on my pc while zephyr took 1 and a half. The result was also way better. Try it out, you might like it.
I do a lot of modelling and animating, but I also got into 3D printing. So this video doubles as a way to 3D scan an object and reprint it as a model. I appreciate it!
Virgin 3D scanning: going outside, taking a hell lot of pictures, need hours to render, too many vertices Chad Ian Hubert: just make a cylinder and extrude, add a texture and voilà
true Ian Hubert's tutorials are incredibly easy and useful, but if you want realistic 3d props or models for game scenes, photo-scanned objects are better bc of the details and realism.
Oh wow. I’ve fallen far enough down the Blender UA-cam rabbit hole to arrive at this video and think “I know this voice...oh! It’s Peter from Corridor!” Happy to be here and learn more for my journey through Blender!
4 роки тому+4
I appreciate how you start with a super basic photogrammetry tutorial and follow up with pretty advanced Blender show :D
Wow I was really bummed when I saw the display.land app was closed recently. I’m so glad you made this! It actually seems to be a lot easier than I thought it would be haha. Thanks so much Peter!!
Coltyn Stone-Lamontagne True.... a square marker, a few strategic photos, fSpy, project from view, bake? This one is just for teaching, anyway, I guess..
or maybe you suck at modeling and creating UV textures, and this is your way to go! also there are some retopology tools out there so you can have quads and decent render times. :D
Before starting this tutorial, I had never touched Blender. Nevertheless, I was interested enough to push through and scan my first object. I'm happy to say that I now have a really strange looking cream soda can that I may drop into UE4. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, Peter!
You don't photoscan a can! It's much easier to model/find a can. Photoscanning is better for organic or rough objects that would look worse if you made them from scratch.
Instead of taking photos, I took a video with the same motion and locked settings on my phone. I later edited unnecessary stuff out of the video... Then I REALLY decreased the frame rate because bro, too many frames. Output your video as a JPEG sequence and I suppose you know where to go from here!
Yup that's the only way I've tried it, but now I'm debating switching to photos like everybody else because I wonder if it outputs sharper image textures!
hey man, I find taking a slow video tracking around your chosen object, then using some software that extracts as many frames as you like per second is a neat trick. it's faster than taking pictures. I find it often picks ups more detail because of the smoother camera pan around the object.
You’re amazing!! One of the best tutorials I’ve ever taken! Exactly what I was looking for. I can’t tell you how much you’ve helped me. You earned my subscription
I think you could cut some time out of this process by doing an edge split after cutting the model (vertex group may still be good for safety). That way when you select the model and ctrl-L to select linked parts it will be disconnected from the garbage.
Ohh so YOUR THE GUY Ian Hurbert is trying to be like 👍 WooW ots an Honour of mine to be on your channel Sir. Great Vid man even better attitude. Thanks bro 🙏✌
Also, any images that aren't going into the color socket should be set to "non-color data", so I usually use two copies of the image, one set to srgb and one to non-color :)
Its not an accurate height map anyway... For converting an actual height map into a normal map, you're absolutely right. But this is some arbitrary detail stolen from a colorimage... It's physically wrong anyway, so you cant mess up realistic details..... Just choose what looks better. And Ill tell you, for those color to height conversions it won't 100% always be distance. Especially flat objects that are very colorful dont want to protect the distance. The distance on those heightmap conversions comes from dark/light colors in the diffuse.... They dont resemble distance at all. They dont indicate how far something should appear when you convert them from color... They only provide some microdetail at convenient spots. By using strength (and therefore destroying the distance accuracy) you'll effectively lower the impact of dark regions next to light regions while still keeping the details on both intact. So the wrong height information from different colors gets destroyed while it will still give you the microdetails.... In this case probably exactly what you want. I discovered this on some procedural asphalt that had much lighter asphalt patches on it.... I took height from color and all the light patches looked like they were raised higher - the color tells it to do that. But by putting strength to 1 and lowering the distance to near 0 all those broad height informations got destroyed entirely only leaving the even pore details behind.
@@888marcinb Its a white hydrant with dark rust on it! It will not look better to adjust distance on this. the distance is absolutely wrong for contrastful colorimages. It would bump the rust 2cm in until some microdetail reaches the flat pieces. Adjust strength and it will uniformly transfer microdetail onto both the rust and the flat piece without creating a border around the transition.
If you're just using it for modeling and texture reference, grab an iphone 12pro and 3dscan the same object with that. While you're waiting for the photogrammetry to calculate, you can Probably model the object with decent topology and have it unwrapped by the time Meshroom is finished. Once you get the nicer data, you can selectively merge those. Like, the textures will be much better there. But the UVs suck, so bake those textures onto your new model? You can also grab some of the smaller details that didn't scan with your phone in your crappy, but still very impressive, real-time scan. Seriously, if you don't have one, find someone with one. Get the "3d scanner app" (such a terrible name) and do a scan. If you're Super anti apple, I believe the galaxy note 20, and Maybe the note 10?, has the same kind of liDar sensor. Oddly though, for smaller details, the FaceID camera has better quality, but is limited to small objects. I'm looking into seeing if it's worth it to use both.
I see some plants in your photo collage at the end when you're telling us to see your patreon. I'm interested to see how you were able to scan those since there are so many overlapping and thin objects. I've only tried photoscanning a few times with varying success, but that's one that I never was able to get. Any time I had occluding objects, it seemed to just get one or the other. Tips and tricks for thin and occluding objects would be a sweet video.
If you have access to a DSLR and have some knowledge about it; you might want to try a CPL filter on the lens. These are made to block out 99% of reflection if you use them right
Meshroom is hanging for me all the time. I got it stuck on 3 different places and if your stuck i basically have to redo all of it... it didnt work for 7 Times now and its faster to just model it per hand
No it doesn't work, you can calculate the point cloud which is done by the cpu but the texturing part uses CUDA cards which are Nvidia There's is actually a workaround for using meshroom in the cloud, search for meshroom Google Collab
@@claudius2049 Oh, but I need it for engineering purposes only, textures don't matter in the CAD program.. With creating the pointcloud, does it fill it in with triangles too?
Straight forward tuts like this are multiplying... How lucky the generations today is
👍
I agree!!!
Seriously. Very little excuse nowadays for not knowing how to do the things you want to do.
Straight forward from 1:56
Channelling the Hubert. 🙂
He is iconic.
Hey I mean if you find a better way to make tutorials, let me know. Love to Ian!
@@PeterFrance no criticism intended. As always, love your work. 🙂
@Christian William haha theres a hubert inside you
just need to add Moths the the model now
Holy cow this is so incredibly useful, it’s midnight now and I’m in bed but I’ve never been more excited to jump in blender in the morning
One year later, same. Lol
Two years later, same. Lol
I haven't even realized it's Peter at first, holy
Same
"save your project as something other than flagdlag"
Me: no I don't think I will
Flagdlag? I've never heard of her.
1:30 "After a half-hour you should see this thing"
For me this part took _2 and a half hours to complete_
*And the rest of the photogrammetry took almost 6 hours*
But still great tutorial, and it actually is REALLY addicting
Try 3DF ZEPHYR. It has a free version also which can do 50 images. Meshroom with 107 pics took 8 hrs on my pc while zephyr took 1 and a half. The result was also way better. Try it out, you might like it.
@@shivanshsingh8229 Thanks to your comment I tried it out this afternoon and it worked great! Thanks for recommending
@@AustinThomasFilms Cant see his comment, what did he recommend?
@@Mrcoolagainbuzy I can't see it now either but I believe it was a program called 3DF Zephyr. As opposed to using Meshroom.
These are really good tutorials.
Bro! This was a MASTER CLASS..... I've been using Blender for like 8 years, and never learned so much in one video!...
I do a lot of modelling and animating, but I also got into 3D printing. So this video doubles as a way to 3D scan an object and reprint it as a model. I appreciate it!
10 seconds into the vid and I was like "oh this is Peter from corridor"
wait what
same
Yeah, beeple best friend
Same here 😂😂
Virgin 3D scanning: going outside, taking a hell lot of pictures, need hours to render, too many vertices
Chad Ian Hubert: just make a cylinder and extrude, add a texture and voilà
true Ian Hubert's tutorials are incredibly easy and useful, but if you want realistic 3d props or models for game scenes, photo-scanned objects are better bc of the details and realism.
@@Funatiq If you game models, 3D scanning is probably one the worst options
@@Adem92Foster that's not true, its already being used in a lot of games.
First This guy teaching you Photo scanning not modeling
@@Adem92Foster depends remeshing
Oh wow. I’ve fallen far enough down the Blender UA-cam rabbit hole to arrive at this video and think “I know this voice...oh! It’s Peter from Corridor!” Happy to be here and learn more for my journey through Blender!
I appreciate how you start with a super basic photogrammetry tutorial and follow up with pretty advanced Blender show :D
The mustache and long socks make the perfect man for anything.
@4K Creator Are you a freak or what?
This is some Stark Industry level right there
For anyone not seeing the "load model" option be sure to double click on the texturing node
Nice music 👍
I appreciate the partial tutorial in how to be awkward in social interactions, but I already have that covered.
The step that I did best is being as awkward as possible...
It is addicting, where ever I go im just looking for things to 3D scan now
That intro is gold. What 3D designer hasn't ruined a good date by pausing to take photos of inanimate every day objects?
I definitely didn’t spend like a month on one project like this to 3D print, modeling a house, and thus learned basically all of this the hard way.
Thank you Peter! This is EXACTLY what I needed. I love your content and everything you do at Corridor.
The way you go through the tutorial is both entertaining and highly effective for learning lol good job
loving your humor, so set in reality :)
Wow I was really bummed when I saw the display.land app was closed recently. I’m so glad you made this! It actually seems to be a lot easier than I thought it would be haha. Thanks so much Peter!!
Wait, really? That sucks :(
"." meaning you are on a phone.
@@chickeninabox yet display land was written like display.land
And what's wrong with being on a phone?
@@Raspyx Nothing wrong, Its like being a European or American.
OOOOOOOH Peeeeeeete, Pete from Corridor. Thanks Pete, from one Pete to another.
Ironically selecting the one thing in the environment that could be modelled in 10 minutes ...
Robin Betts exactly what I’m thinking 😂😂😂
Coltyn Stone-Lamontagne True.... a square marker, a few strategic photos, fSpy, project from view, bake? This one is just for teaching, anyway, I guess..
A summation of how my decisionmaking tends to happen in 3D
@@sdrawkcabmiay well u could use a few images and its not that hard
or maybe you suck at modeling and creating UV textures, and this is your way to go! also there are some retopology tools out there so you can have quads and decent render times. :D
Before starting this tutorial, I had never touched Blender. Nevertheless, I was interested enough to push through and scan my first object.
I'm happy to say that I now have a really strange looking cream soda can that I may drop into UE4. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, Peter!
You don't photoscan a can! It's much easier to model/find a can. Photoscanning is better for organic or rough objects that would look worse if you made them from scratch.
Chrysippus I agree. I have scanned a few more objects now, but hand-modeling them would probably be better. It’s all fun though!
You can just press L while hovering over an object to select all linked faces instead of selecting a face and pressing ctrl and l
I'm sure he said that
@@theCreativeSav No. He said Ctrl+L which is slower than L.
Instead of taking photos, I took a video with the same motion and locked settings on my phone. I later edited unnecessary stuff out of the video...
Then I REALLY decreased the frame rate because bro, too many frames.
Output your video as a JPEG sequence and I suppose you know where to go from here!
That's...brilliant.
Yup that's the only way I've tried it, but now I'm debating switching to photos like everybody else because I wonder if it outputs sharper image textures!
@@Leukick but you can sharp the sequence and remove noise
@@LuisSOfficial HDR enabled photo> JPED "Screenshots"
Thank you for sharing. This was awesome! Tutorial suggestion: photo scanning an environment, such as a room or an outdoor scene.
hey man, I find taking a slow video tracking around your chosen object, then using some software that extracts as many frames as you like per second is a neat trick. it's faster than taking pictures. I find it often picks ups more detail because of the smoother camera pan around the object.
yes that's cool and all until you get motion blur, rolling shutter, auto exposure, and god knows how many other artifacts
i tried that with ffmpeg to extract frames, let me tell you, it's not worth it
omfg this is not only perfect but exactly what i was looking for. Thanks my G!!
That's much more simple than I imagined, nice
Peter, you are amazing.
You know how this helps me?
A dammn lot... No one taught me this..
Thank you so much!
Keep the great work up. 👍
This is so helpful! Thanks! You and Blender Guru are my go to people for Blender stuff!
You’re amazing!! One of the best tutorials I’ve ever taken! Exactly what I was looking for. I can’t tell you how much you’ve helped me. You earned my subscription
Thank the algorithm! Thought i recognized that voice from the Crew :D great vid!
I have a DSLR. I have powerful-ish PCs. I have 3d printers.
_My God what have you done to me, Peter_
that people looking at you awkwardly is so accurate ....
This is the video I’ve been needing!
Thank you for such a straight forward tutorial, much appreicated
Yes Peter, it is time you take over the UA-cam Blender community. Take your seat, among the gods.
Damn man, just the tutorial I was looking for! Sweet AF explanation, nice and easy... cheers :D
1:33 That… is SO cool!!!! I’ll do this eventually.
This is great. Concise, a relevant topic, a few extra tips thrown in. Thank you.
Thank you was finding a good photoscan tutorial from a long time. Love your spiderman movie
Watching this video knowing full well i don't have he patience to do photoscans - but it's so cool
I'm so gonna do this now. Then I'll use the Instant Meshes to clean up the objects! This is great!
Love your tutorial style! Much appreciated and super clear and helpful
I was laughing so hard at 1.20. Funny video, great work
I'm always torn between hating people who copy others or not, but then the video is just so good so whatever.
This is awesome Peter! Please make a tutorial about making a custom HDRI with your camera. Thank you! 🙏🏽❤️
ua-cam.com/video/MASbLjQ9S_Y/v-deo.html
@@John-lj7zo thanks lol I've seen that video. I just wanted to see Peter's point of view
Whahhaha ok
@@theCreativeSav It's probably the same point of view. Just a different voice.
Fantastic! Thank you for the no BS tutorial.
Save your object to something other than "asxvzgsh" got me to subscribe right away 😂 amazing work man !
This is a fantastic tutorial mate nicely done!
Btw @3:14 you don’t need to click and then press Ctrl+L if you just hover your cursor over the object and press L it does the same thing
Very cool. Does this work for viscous things like a raw egg?
It works for literally anything
@Tristen Hezekiah it's a bot
@@arcanekelpyg3370 there both bots i've seen them all the time
@@thewatchingeye2378 ah
@@thewatchingeye2378 True, this happens a lot. Freaking scammers lol
I came for the Photoscanning, Leaving *Needing* the bagel. 🍔🍩
this is beyond science
I think you could cut some time out of this process by doing an edge split after cutting the model (vertex group may still be good for safety). That way when you select the model and ctrl-L to select linked parts it will be disconnected from the garbage.
Quick Tip instead of removing vertices use the boolean tool it faster
Ohh so YOUR THE GUY Ian Hurbert is trying to be like 👍 WooW ots an Honour of mine to be on your channel Sir. Great Vid man even better attitude. Thanks bro 🙏✌
i remember you form corridor how did it take me so long to find this channel
Ohh you're that guy, subbed immediately
PETER! I’m glad I found you!
You’re the best, Peter thanks b :)
Also, any images that aren't going into the color socket should be set to "non-color data", so I usually use two copies of the image, one set to srgb and one to non-color :)
4:05
you should always have bump's strength set to 1
and control the intensity by changing the distance
Why?
@@TheKBrosTech try it you will see the diffrence but basicaly you destroy the texture by lowering the strengh
Its not an accurate height map anyway...
For converting an actual height map into a normal map, you're absolutely right. But this is some arbitrary detail stolen from a colorimage... It's physically wrong anyway, so you cant mess up realistic details..... Just choose what looks better. And Ill tell you, for those color to height conversions it won't 100% always be distance. Especially flat objects that are very colorful dont want to protect the distance.
The distance on those heightmap conversions comes from dark/light colors in the diffuse.... They dont resemble distance at all. They dont indicate how far something should appear when you convert them from color... They only provide some microdetail at convenient spots. By using strength (and therefore destroying the distance accuracy) you'll effectively lower the impact of dark regions next to light regions while still keeping the details on both intact. So the wrong height information from different colors gets destroyed while it will still give you the microdetails.... In this case probably exactly what you want.
I discovered this on some procedural asphalt that had much lighter asphalt patches on it.... I took height from color and all the light patches looked like they were raised higher - the color tells it to do that. But by putting strength to 1 and lowering the distance to near 0 all those broad height informations got destroyed entirely only leaving the even pore details behind.
@@benhardwiesner6963 so much talk jeez..and all i need is.. "IT LOOKS BETTER" when you leave strenght to 1
@@888marcinb Its a white hydrant with dark rust on it! It will not look better to adjust distance on this. the distance is absolutely wrong for contrastful colorimages.
It would bump the rust 2cm in until some microdetail reaches the flat pieces. Adjust strength and it will uniformly transfer microdetail onto both the rust and the flat piece without creating a border around the transition.
Awesome tutorial Peter. Thanks a lot. 👍
After watching this tutorial a new subscriber in u r sub list 😀✌
just discovered your videos... nice work mate!
Wait, your the guy from Corridor
OMG!!! super tutorial in a super record time!! Thanks a lot!
liked and subscribed thank you very much for this tutorials man
I learned a lot from this video.
Taking the pictures is like looking at a 10 FPS video
this tutorial is absolutely blalalalala!
If you're just using it for modeling and texture reference, grab an iphone 12pro and 3dscan the same object with that. While you're waiting for the photogrammetry to calculate, you can Probably model the object with decent topology and have it unwrapped by the time Meshroom is finished. Once you get the nicer data, you can selectively merge those. Like, the textures will be much better there. But the UVs suck, so bake those textures onto your new model? You can also grab some of the smaller details that didn't scan with your phone in your crappy, but still very impressive, real-time scan.
Seriously, if you don't have one, find someone with one. Get the "3d scanner app" (such a terrible name) and do a scan. If you're Super anti apple, I believe the galaxy note 20, and Maybe the note 10?, has the same kind of liDar sensor.
Oddly though, for smaller details, the FaceID camera has better quality, but is limited to small objects. I'm looking into seeing if it's worth it to use both.
Thank you very much! excellent tutorial, keep it up!
I see some plants in your photo collage at the end when you're telling us to see your patreon. I'm interested to see how you were able to scan those since there are so many overlapping and thin objects. I've only tried photoscanning a few times with varying success, but that's one that I never was able to get. Any time I had occluding objects, it seemed to just get one or the other. Tips and tricks for thin and occluding objects would be a sweet video.
Lmao I didnt look at the channel name and once I saw your face I was like "Omg thats peter."
Peter 42
I love photoscanning stuff. I was taunt in agisoft but I want to not break bank meshroom will do! Great video.
hey :) for me the "load model" button doesnt even appear - do u know why that could be? great video btw!
you have to double click on the texturing node in the current version
Peter 42! I didn't even realize this was you!
Incredibly useful!😊
this video was a good birthday gift thank you for this !!
Came for the Blender. Left due to mask kuk boi
Me: Yes i can finally scan whole car models!
Peter: NO!
If you have access to a DSLR and have some knowledge about it; you might want to try a CPL filter on the lens. These are made to block out 99% of reflection if you use them right
@@mantenbrink I know about cpl filters. It was a joke. ;)
For a moment the yellow models in the thumbnail made me think this was adventure time...
LIke Jake! What are doing pretending to be furniture?
Is there any software to take advantage of the iPhone Pro LIDAR scanners for this sort of work ?
Meshroom is hanging for me all the time. I got it stuck on 3 different places and if your stuck i basically have to redo all of it... it didnt work for 7 Times now and its faster to just model it per hand
Aaah man …I’m just gonna model a hand pump ❤😂…great info tho , really good for humans
Meshroom doesn't work with AMD cards though, does it?
it does work, but slower. I'd rather switch to nvidia tho 🙃
No it doesn't work, you can calculate the point cloud which is done by the cpu but the texturing part uses CUDA cards which are Nvidia
There's is actually a workaround for using meshroom in the cloud, search for meshroom Google Collab
@@claudius2049 Oh, but I need it for engineering purposes only, textures don't matter in the CAD program.. With creating the pointcloud, does it fill it in with triangles too?
How does it perform with Apple's built in "Metal" GPUs?
hi! great video! just curious, could you use this to photo scan the inside of something?
im trying to mix real footage with an animation, would this be a good alteritive and just scanning my scene insteal of real footage?
AMAZING, yes life can be easy sometimes
4:05 wait how does this step work? I thought bump maps were just b/w? But the image he took was probs in color right?
Sos un capo. In spanish means, you are a great!
This is a very well done tutorial, clear and concise. But I don't think I'll ever get comfortable with Blender.