Love the videos mate! what are you finishing trim with? Ive tried Crown Fast flow satin nd find it rubbish more runners than the grand national! really want to try tikkurila but what do you recomend, also whats your proccess for newbuilds start to finish, might be a long video but would be worth it. site we are on we are spraying ceiling, walls and brusing woodwork with Crown oil Satin .
When your sraying satins and gloss you have to move fast or you'll get runs . I think tickirilla isn't that much better than fast flow it's a tough paint so you'd be able to really wipe it down without paint fade. My mate really likes isolac aqua top coats again that's a paint with enamel in it with makes it tough , so I going to give that one a go next . I haven't really helped you here it's more of a trial and error and go with a brand that gives you a nice consitant finish . The main thing is move quickly when your spraying the top coats the you'll stop the runs I usually give it a second top coat to make it really shine it doesn't take long for the first top coat to dry . Hope this helps.👍
I will make a video on how I spray on site and your right it would be fairly long that's why I haven't made one so far . If I was you I would spray the woodwork with primer undercoat and a straight satin on top , it's a lot quicker than giving it two satins by brush
Personally best way I do a new build house is get in, load kit I need for that time being so not much to move around, get it all filled up woodwork/walls. Tape off bathrooms / kitchens / sockets an whatever else. With tape and 3m hand masker when needed. Sand everything down give it a good clean out cause site never do so. Vacuum tops of skirts an a run along the bottom, around all bottoms of frames… once all cleaned I calk window boards and tops of skirts and frames then do all the fine caulking inner frames an spindles Then go home. Day two will be prime all window boards any bear wood and frames with a brush as the sprayer drinks it an half the time don’t catch so easier to go old school. then get the sprayer out and set up and run though walls and ceiling always over lapping on frames just to make it more solid. You have to be quick tho or you’ll be left with really bad orange peal. I go over the skirting and bring them in with the walls then clean out pack up take tape off everything and go home. 3rd day I’ll undercoat everything and leave again then on the 4th day be light sanding and glossing. Be sure to keep the same sanding pads so they are warn down so it don’t take to much off, the bigger house the longer the process unless you stay late witch then it’s no bother. Just means 2 hard days 2 easy days! I always stay with this plan an it works out nice. Depending on the site when I got free time I’ll undercoat and gloss the door and meter box’s.
A lot of people spray undercoat but I’ve seen a lot of people do it and leave loads of runs unless it’s with the hand held graco then they come up mint! I’ve tried spraying with my graco 390 cordless and the corded version and just can never get it right no matter how much I turn down the psi or how fast I go. Always a run somewhere and you never see it until you gloss then it shines like a fucker. But each to there own, it’s what you learn and what your comfortable with personally I use the sprayer when needed an try not to over milk it.
How is he managing to go over it so slow and give second passes without getting runs and sagging? I've got a graco gx21 ff with the hopper and I have to go over trim so quick like a mad man and still I get the odd run. I know it's probably not the best machine is this why or maybe do I need to wack the pressure up or down I usually spray around 1000psi with low pressure tips any advice would be great. Cheers cam
It does depend on the material your spraying on , the mdf on site really absorbs the paint so you have to put more on . It's hard to give you tips without seeing you spray all I can think of is make sure your spray tips are not blown , don't spray to close to the woodwork , if your spraying over already painted surfaces you will have to move really quick , and I would definitely be spraying around 1400 psi . Hope this helps . 👍
@@camdecorations9779 cheers mate I put up the pressure seems to put on a thinner coat like more atomised.. also stopped using extension until my clean shot arrives as you get quite big drips flicking off so hopefully I shouldn’t have anymore issues. Keep up the good work 👍🏻
Great idea if you want it to fail. Just piss down some acrylic primer and use that on walls and hit wood with it too if you want to do that, contract emulsions wouldn't be putting anywhere near my trim
I said that, load of bollox. Tried it and wont go back. It works. Look on the back of a tub for uses on surfaces, woodwork included. Think about it, its an acrylic paint. Thicker than normal primer. Dont knock it till you ve tried it.
You could buy it mate and see what it's like the cheapest entry model I would go for is the graco 390 , tried and trusted on the building sites. If you buy it let me know how you get on with it . Thanks for watching the channel 👍🏾
On 13 doors you would be looking at 5 litres thinned out to 20% water. A 3 bed house with no doors , spraying spindles , window cills , skirtings and spraying the frames twice your looking at slightly more than 5 litres
Love the videos mate! what are you finishing trim with? Ive tried Crown Fast flow satin nd find it rubbish more runners than the grand national! really want to try tikkurila but what do you recomend, also whats your proccess for newbuilds start to finish, might be a long video but would be worth it.
site we are on we are spraying ceiling, walls and brusing woodwork with Crown oil Satin .
When your sraying satins and gloss you have to move fast or you'll get runs . I think tickirilla isn't that much better than fast flow it's a tough paint so you'd be able to really wipe it down without paint fade. My mate really likes isolac aqua top coats again that's a paint with enamel in it with makes it tough , so I going to give that one a go next . I haven't really helped you here it's more of a trial and error and go with a brand that gives you a nice consitant finish . The main thing is move quickly when your spraying the top coats the you'll stop the runs I usually give it a second top coat to make it really shine it doesn't take long for the first top coat to dry . Hope this helps.👍
I will make a video on how I spray on site and your right it would be fairly long that's why I haven't made one so far . If I was you I would spray the woodwork with primer undercoat and a straight satin on top , it's a lot quicker than giving it two satins by brush
Personally best way I do a new build house is get in, load kit I need for that time being so not much to move around, get it all filled up woodwork/walls. Tape off bathrooms / kitchens / sockets an whatever else. With tape and 3m hand masker when needed. Sand everything down give it a good clean out cause site never do so. Vacuum tops of skirts an a run along the bottom, around all bottoms of frames… once all cleaned I calk window boards and tops of skirts and frames then do all the fine caulking inner frames an spindles Then go home.
Day two will be prime all window boards any bear wood and frames with a brush as the sprayer drinks it an half the time don’t catch so easier to go old school. then get the sprayer out and set up and run though walls and ceiling always over lapping on frames just to make it more solid. You have to be quick tho or you’ll be left with really bad orange peal. I go over the skirting and bring them in with the walls then clean out pack up take tape off everything and go home.
3rd day I’ll undercoat everything and leave again then on the 4th day be light sanding and glossing. Be sure to keep the same sanding pads so they are warn down so it don’t take to much off, the bigger house the longer the process unless you stay late witch then it’s no bother. Just means 2 hard days 2 easy days! I always stay with this plan an it works out nice.
Depending on the site when I got free time I’ll undercoat and gloss the door and meter box’s.
A lot of people spray undercoat but I’ve seen a lot of people do it and leave loads of runs unless it’s with the hand held graco then they come up mint! I’ve tried spraying with my graco 390 cordless and the corded version and just can never get it right no matter how much I turn down the psi or how fast I go. Always a run somewhere and you never see it until you gloss then it shines like a fucker. But each to there own, it’s what you learn and what your comfortable with personally I use the sprayer when needed an try not to over milk it.
Pistol ? What spray pistol and tips
How is he managing to go over it so slow and give second passes without getting runs and sagging? I've got a graco gx21 ff with the hopper and I have to go over trim so quick like a mad man and still I get the odd run. I know it's probably not the best machine is this why or maybe do I need to wack the pressure up or down I usually spray around 1000psi with low pressure tips any advice would be great. Cheers cam
It does depend on the material your spraying on , the mdf on site really absorbs the paint so you have to put more on . It's hard to give you tips without seeing you spray all I can think of is make sure your spray tips are not blown , don't spray to close to the woodwork , if your spraying over already painted surfaces you will have to move really quick , and I would definitely be spraying around 1400 psi . Hope this helps . 👍
@@camdecorations9779 cheers mate I put up the pressure seems to put on a thinner coat like more atomised.. also stopped using extension until my clean shot arrives as you get quite big drips flicking off so hopefully I shouldn’t have anymore issues. Keep up the good work 👍🏻
Colin want do you think about going over your trim with the walls mist coat emulsion
leyland smart matt paint ?
Jonnos durable matt can go on woodwork
Great idea if you want it to fail. Just piss down some acrylic primer and use that on walls and hit wood with it too if you want to do that, contract emulsions wouldn't be putting anywhere near my trim
I said that, load of bollox. Tried it and wont go back. It works. Look on the back of a tub for uses on surfaces, woodwork included. Think about it, its an acrylic paint. Thicker than normal primer. Dont knock it till you ve tried it.
@@putsy1968 wasn't aimed at you bud was referring to original post, I know acrylic matt durables can go on woodwork
Hi colm . Can you recommend a waterbased primer for bare trim . Also same for bare mdf . Cheers mate.
For normal woodwork any water base prime will do . Foe bare mdf I would use zinser shellac base primer , good for bare mdf
Thanks colm
Hello Colin ive been told that the qtech 190 I good for site work survey not its only 700
You could buy it mate and see what it's like the cheapest entry model I would go for is the graco 390 , tried and trusted on the building sites. If you buy it let me know how you get on with it . Thanks for watching the channel 👍🏾
@@camdecorations9779 thinking on the 390 ,I'm using bosses old 495 at mo and he replaces it with Chinese pumps lol,sprayer is 8 years old too 😆
What tip you boys using
He's using a 210 graco fflp tip and I use a 310
@@camdecorations9779 do you ever spray furniture cam and if so what tip do you use?
what nozzle do you use for wood ??
How much primer do you go through on a house like this? And how much would you use on say 13 doors?
On 13 doors you would be looking at 5 litres thinned out to 20% water. A 3 bed house with no doors , spraying spindles , window cills , skirtings and spraying the frames twice your looking at slightly more than 5 litres
Effortless 💪
👍