Muy buen Video Antonio, el último tornillo le pusiste 15 lb y luego 80° para los que no tenemos de ese tipo de torquimetro con grados, cuantas lbs de presión sería al final ?
@@DalilaEnriquez-c1i quiero decir Que son como 35lb pero Nunca Le he puesto atencion. Estoy haciendo otro y este fin de semana monto las cabezas. Y asi te puedo decir con exactitud
Antonio, I’m following your instructions and what you did here. Once I get both heads torqued down, do I need to bring the crankshaft to TDC on #1 so I can start the timing chain process. Your other video didn’t explain that to well where the crankshaft has to be before chains. I just don’t want to screw this engine up and be 180 degrees off. My dad was the mechanic and started working on this 2012 Acadia for my mom. He died and no shop will take it and finish it for her. I’m trying to finish so she can use the car or sell it running. Any suggestions on anything is greatly appreciated.
Don’t worry where the #1 piston is too much because it’s going to move anyway. Start on the left bank with the dots on the phasers. Make sure you timing mark on your crankshaft lines up with the mark on the pump which is located around the 5 o’clock mark
I’m very sorry to hear about your dad. I lost my dad when I was young too I feel your pain. Good luck with your project. You can contact me anytime if you have any questions. Don’t forget to like and subscribe and have happy new year
Not sure what im watching at minute 49. Seems you are manually striking the valves? This evacuates the pressure to the exhaust and intake chambers? What does this test reveal? I am doing this repair myself.
@@CR-rc5ch I am just making sure it passes the cylinder leak down test. Making sure the valves are properly seated and no debris is in between the valves and the valves seat
@antonioaguirre6166 so striking shakes loose or knocks off carbon build up and then let's the valve fully seat? Is that why you said something sounded better because it had less air escaping?
Bro your like the 3.6 Guru😂. I should have the same engine since mine is a 2008. It be cool if you could do the timing chain tutorial on this one incase it's different on 2009 and up. You had me stressing watching you do your final torque 🙈 that popping the bolts make is nerve raking. BTW do you do the same procedure if you were to buy new bolts? Is the 80ft-lbs the correct torque by the book or about what you think based on the instructions of 22ft-lbs then 150 degrees? Lastly you think you busted so many bolts because you like to sit the engine on a table instead of an engine stand with proper support and not moving on you like it was in this video. I'm assuming if it was slipping on you so it be kinda hard to get that extra 150 angle with the new bolts. I know mine will take a dump in the next few years, but so far over 130K miles only thing major I will be dealing with shortly is the dang timing cover oil leak 🤬
thank you for your compliment. surprisingly the timing chain part number is the same on all of them. the installation process is the same as well. if I get new bolts, I will just torque them the same way I did the used bolts. I don't like the 22ft-llbs with 150 degrees, I feel like the cylinder head is not seating evenly. you don't want to do more than 80ft-lbs after that the bolts will break. aluminum is softer than cast iron so no need for more than 80ft-lbs. I don't think I broke the bolts because I did it on the table, I did it on the engine stand too and the same, I did it while the engine sitting on the frame and same it broke. rule of thumb Aluminum block and aluminum heads on engines that are not high performance don't need more then 80ft-lbs. and I really like the 10ft-lbs increments. it pulls down the cylinder head evenly. thank you for watching like and subscribe.
@@antonioaguirre6166 I agree your kinda using the same sequence honda heads are put on, but your going up in 10 pound increments each round nice. Yah I see most V6 aluminum heads are torqued down to 78ft-lbs so I'm assuming that's where u got that 80ft-lbs final torque. Seeing you kinda struggle with the engine on the table and hearing the popping of the bolt rubbing against the threads is a butt cheeks pucker moment everytime 🤣 not planning to ever do this, but if it would come down to it following your advise with 300 plus engines of the same spec under your belt is better than some internet know it all that has only performed this one time or none at all👍🏻
@@johnny4713ify yes if you preferred the engine stand will be better. I’m just so used to the table, that I don’t even look at the engine stand anymore. I have 4 of them and not been used. You are welcome to have one. Yes the popping noise always gets me and makes me nervous every time. Ever since I messed up the other engines I got traumatized with that noise. 🤣🤣🤣 but it always works it self out
@@antonioaguirre6166 Bro I'd take you up on that offer, but I'm in Southern California Lol. Not sure what part of Texas your from, but I'd say the people in that area are lucky to have you as there mechanic 👍🏻. BTW way I watched your Spanish version of the same procedure and you were stressing on those last 🔩 torque specs LMAO!!! I was going to say you need better camera angles to see how you did the sequence, but you made that picture diagram and it made more sense. I don't have a lift like you so I'm going to dig into it while engine is still in the vehicle. I could change the timing chain at that point, but if I don't have codes or issues with it I'm just going to do the reseal of the timing cover only. I figure when it's time to change the timing chains I'll have a better idea as to what I have to do. I have changed the water pump so I have torn it down sorta, but not that crazy yet. I don't mind doing the work since I do like to fix my own vehicles and always willing to learn.
I noticed you put the righ Bank head first, does it matter if you put on the right bank first then the left, is there a difference on which one you put on first?
@@ricgomez1 it makes no difference. Left or right first. Just don’t forget to install the fuel rails before installing the cylinder head. And the sponge that goes in between.
Those were great leakdown numbers, and on a cold engine. Did you touch the lower end? If not, how many miles on this one? Did you clean pistons or upper cylinder walls?
@@MrNebRebew yes, I dissemble the entire engine, clean it, wash it, and inspect it. I hone the cylinders and if the rings are full of carbon I just order new ones.
@@antonioaguirre6166 San Antonio Texas. Do you have a video of you pressure washing this engine and parts? You drying parts with compressed air? Oiling afterwards? Thanks again. Also like how you mentioned not modifying the PCV valve in your other video!
I try new bolts from the dealer and aftermarket too same result. I found this way and I haven’t have any issues. I don’t like the 150 degrees torque specifications. I rather this way
I reuse every single head bolt I remove unless I'm ordering an ARP bolts all ALL aftermarket head bolts that are considered OEM or ching chong are junk I've had 14 lbs of boost on 3 times reused head bolts in my 5.3 LS I will say you do not torq to the same torq spects as factory due to them already being stretched out . But have had No problems .I also reuse my harmonic balancer bolts tiny bit of lock tight
I never had any problems with the way a I do it. And I have done so many of these engines. Every time I want to do it like you said I have problems with them.
Muy buen Video Antonio, el último tornillo le pusiste 15 lb y luego 80° para los que no tenemos de ese tipo de torquimetro con grados, cuantas lbs de presión sería al final ?
@@DalilaEnriquez-c1i quiero decir Que son como 35lb pero Nunca Le he puesto atencion. Estoy haciendo otro y este fin de semana monto las cabezas. Y asi te puedo decir con exactitud
Gracias
Did you work this out
@@brandonlange2104 work what out?
Antonio, I’m following your instructions and what you did here. Once I get both heads torqued down, do I need to bring the crankshaft to TDC on #1 so I can start the timing chain process.
Your other video didn’t explain that to well where the crankshaft has to be before chains.
I just don’t want to screw this engine up and be 180 degrees off.
My dad was the mechanic and started working on this 2012 Acadia for my mom. He died and no shop will take it and finish it for her. I’m trying to finish so she can use the car or sell it running. Any suggestions on anything is greatly appreciated.
Don’t worry where the #1 piston is too much because it’s going to move anyway. Start on the left bank with the dots on the phasers. Make sure you timing mark on your crankshaft lines up with the mark on the pump which is located around the 5 o’clock mark
ua-cam.com/video/HDnOwJaxWwg/v-deo.htmlsi=R5ePqR6TCPHvgQkV
Watch this video I think it’s better on here. I know it’s long but it has good information here
I’m very sorry to hear about your dad. I lost my dad when I was young too I feel your pain. Good luck with your project. You can contact me anytime if you have any questions. Don’t forget to like and subscribe and have happy new year
Not sure what im watching at minute 49. Seems you are manually striking the valves? This evacuates the pressure to the exhaust and intake chambers? What does this test reveal? I am doing this repair myself.
@@CR-rc5ch I am just making sure it passes the cylinder leak down test. Making sure the valves are properly seated and no debris is in between the valves and the valves seat
@antonioaguirre6166 so striking shakes loose or knocks off carbon build up and then let's the valve fully seat? Is that why you said something sounded better because it had less air escaping?
@@antonioaguirre6166 do you have any crankshaft videos with bearing and ring jobs?
@ unfortunately I do not have one
Bro your like the 3.6 Guru😂. I should have the same engine since mine is a 2008. It be cool if you could do the timing chain tutorial on this one incase it's different on 2009 and up. You had me stressing watching you do your final torque 🙈 that popping the bolts make is nerve raking. BTW do you do the same procedure if you were to buy new bolts? Is the 80ft-lbs the correct torque by the book or about what you think based on the instructions of 22ft-lbs then 150 degrees? Lastly you think you busted so many bolts because you like to sit the engine on a table instead of an engine stand with proper support and not moving on you like it was in this video. I'm assuming if it was slipping on you so it be kinda hard to get that extra 150 angle with the new bolts. I know mine will take a dump in the next few years, but so far over 130K miles only thing major I will be dealing with shortly is the dang timing cover oil leak 🤬
thank you for your compliment. surprisingly the timing chain part number is the same on all of them. the installation process is the same as well. if I get new bolts, I will just torque them the same way I did the used bolts. I don't like the 22ft-llbs with 150 degrees, I feel like the cylinder head is not seating evenly. you don't want to do more than 80ft-lbs after that the bolts will break. aluminum is softer than cast iron so no need for more than 80ft-lbs. I don't think I broke the bolts because I did it on the table, I did it on the engine stand too and the same, I did it while the engine sitting on the frame and same it broke. rule of thumb Aluminum block and aluminum heads on engines that are not high performance don't need more then 80ft-lbs. and I really like the 10ft-lbs increments. it pulls down the cylinder head evenly. thank you for watching like and subscribe.
@@antonioaguirre6166 I agree your kinda using the same sequence honda heads are put on, but your going up in 10 pound increments each round nice. Yah I see most V6 aluminum heads are torqued down to 78ft-lbs so I'm assuming that's where u got that 80ft-lbs final torque. Seeing you kinda struggle with the engine on the table and hearing the popping of the bolt rubbing against the threads is a butt cheeks pucker moment everytime 🤣 not planning to ever do this, but if it would come down to it following your advise with 300 plus engines of the same spec under your belt is better than some internet know it all that has only performed this one time or none at all👍🏻
@@johnny4713ify yes if you preferred the engine stand will be better. I’m just so used to the table, that I don’t even look at the engine stand anymore. I have 4 of them and not been used. You are welcome to have one. Yes the popping noise always gets me and makes me nervous every time. Ever since I messed up the other engines I got traumatized with that noise. 🤣🤣🤣 but it always works it self out
@@antonioaguirre6166 Bro I'd take you up on that offer, but I'm in Southern California Lol. Not sure what part of Texas your from, but I'd say the people in that area are lucky to have you as there mechanic 👍🏻. BTW way I watched your Spanish version of the same procedure and you were stressing on those last 🔩 torque specs LMAO!!! I was going to say you need better camera angles to see how you did the sequence, but you made that picture diagram and it made more sense. I don't have a lift like you so I'm going to dig into it while engine is still in the vehicle. I could change the timing chain at that point, but if I don't have codes or issues with it I'm just going to do the reseal of the timing cover only. I figure when it's time to change the timing chains I'll have a better idea as to what I have to do. I have changed the water pump so I have torn it down sorta, but not that crazy yet. I don't mind doing the work since I do like to fix my own vehicles and always willing to learn.
@@johnny4713ify I like that. Yes I’m getting my GoPro soon and some lights and a tripod
Great video 🤙
Glad you enjoyed
I noticed you put the righ Bank head first, does it matter if you put on the right bank first then the left, is there a difference on which one you put on first?
@@ricgomez1 it makes no difference. Left or right first. Just don’t forget to install the fuel rails before installing the cylinder head. And the sponge that goes in between.
Is it possible to replace without taking the motor out?
to be honest I have never tried. I always pull them out to inspected them thoroughly.
Are you in SA by chance?
@@MrNebRebew what is SA? South Africa?
Those were great leakdown numbers, and on a cold engine. Did you touch the lower end? If not, how many miles on this one? Did you clean pistons or upper cylinder walls?
@@MrNebRebew yes, I dissemble the entire engine, clean it, wash it, and inspect it. I hone the cylinders and if the rings are full of carbon I just order new ones.
@@antonioaguirre6166 San Antonio Texas. Do you have a video of you pressure washing this engine and parts? You drying parts with compressed air? Oiling afterwards? Thanks again. Also like how you mentioned not modifying the PCV valve in your other video!
@@MrNebRebew www.tiktok.com/t/ZPRocW4LQ/
You need to get new head bolts every time you take the heads off the old bolts already been twisted 150 degrees that's why you break them
I try new bolts from the dealer and aftermarket too same result. I found this way and I haven’t have any issues. I don’t like the 150 degrees torque specifications. I rather this way
I reuse every single head bolt I remove unless I'm ordering an ARP bolts all ALL aftermarket head bolts that are considered OEM or ching chong are junk I've had 14 lbs of boost on 3 times reused head bolts in my 5.3 LS I will say you do not torq to the same torq spects as factory due to them already being stretched out . But have had No problems .I also reuse my harmonic balancer bolts tiny bit of lock tight
The manual calls for 22 ft lbs the 150 degrees
I never had any problems with the way a I do it. And I have done so many of these engines. Every time I want to do it like you said I have problems with them.
At that point that cars probably not worth saving. 20 hours +
It wasn't that bad. thank you for watching, like and subscribe.
Primo agase uno en espan̈ol
@@kainnaguirre2432 ua-cam.com/video/pPIRs08g1rY/v-deo.htmlsi=fg56QAb-4Fsl3bTg
@@kainnaguirre2432 es este creo
The manual calls for 22 ft lbs the 150 degrees