What’s most impressive is you filming while working 😄 Right side came out pretty ok, I used 3 hours in total. Left side is a fuck up. Bolt snapped, got the head side out. 2/3rds of the bolt is still stuck. Nut is loose, I tried using spanners as leverage and turn the nut to pull the bolt out - no chance. I’m considering buying a second hand knuckle and upper control arms. Price isn’t bad. This much work on a single bolt is insane.
It might not be for everyone, but after I got my original bolt out, I replaced it with a2-70 grade stainless bolt, with mild steel nut. Stock bolt is grade 8.8, so the a2-70 stainless is slightly weaker, but in this application the bolt is not bearing the load of the vehicle directly. A4-80 stainless is nearly identical strength, but hard to find in the length needed. I live in the rust belt, and will say after 5 winters the stainless bolt came out effortlessly.
Well done, I went through this jog, end up damaging the upright, had to buy a new one, it wasn't that expensive here in France. the whole process took me a long time. I think you have done it the right way and by removing the whole unit. I was very worry to discorde the upright with excessive heat. Thanks for sharing your work and congratulation succeeding removing the bolt !
Seen people have luck using an air hammer on the nut side with the nut off the knuckle like you had it. Also seen people use a punch on the nut side as well. An air punch sounds legit too lol
ive had to take mine out on both sides, and live in vT where cars rust out quick, i used same kind of torch u did and also sprayed it a bunch and used a wratchet and had to keep heat on it to get it to spin,, once it would spin decent i put the imapct on it and spun the bolt fast and alot of the corrosion came out, the took bolt out and cleaned up hole then replaced with a new bolt with anti sieze on it ..
@@Maineposted not if you start with light to medium impact level. Before even starting the job, spray it with lots of penetrating lub - a few times and let is sit for about two/three hours before you begin. But it's all about the heat. One good touch with enough heat (you don't really need a welding torch). Then some light/medium impact. Then let it cool down a little bit - the contraction of the metal helps break the oxidation some more (let "thermo-dynamic physics" help you out). Spray it with lot of lub again. The repeat with more heat for a longer time, and impacts in between - you can do some medium hammering at this point too (but don't "mushroom" it). Remember to change the direction of the impact wrench each time (clock-wise, then counter clock-wise). Heat, more heat, and then more heat...., and patience - that is the trick. A really bad one might take 30 minutes (mostly spent on heating/cooling cycles). By "cooling", I don't mean let it cool down completely to room temps.
Who not do it the right way? give it time, a lot of time and gentle hammer it with the impact gun on lowest settings and squeeze the trigger slowly. It may take a 15 minutes or so but never fail. I've done a lot of these as a professional audi mechanic. and I've never fail. Rush it and you fail.
If the pinch bolt is such a PITA, and if you're replacing all of the control arms(big if), why not just cut the control arms in half and not worry about pinch bolts?
I snapped the bolt end of and then put washers on the nut end and used the nut to pull the bolt out just add more washer's as it starts to pull the bolt out eventually you can't get the bolt of just chisel what is remaining of the bolt out took about a hour but was worth it a mechanic tried the other side ended up getting another complete hub of eBay
I’ve learned a lot in the comments and still learn, I was gonna say the same thing to a friend but taking a back seat and just looking at how I do things I hold it up to the blue flame. When you check the instructions manual for this torch it shows various uses and the hottest use is actually up close like this on these mapp gas torches
@@NaptownTuner Fari enough, I sit corrected. Love your channel man. I have a B7 2.0Tfsi, most of your stuff seems to be b8 upwards, but I still love watching. LOVE from the UK bro. 😎
Done a few of these 'bitch' bolts before..MAP gas always works, just make sure to keep the flame on there for a good 5 minutes at a time, then cool it with a block of ice. Repeat a couple of times (heating/cooling) that bolt will start turning i promise you.
Hey Naptown T, I am looking at a 2013 A5 2.0T with 97K. It has had the scheduled dealer maintenance up to the 45k. After that, just regular oil changes every 3-6,000 miles. It runs well, the engine all around is clean (underneath as well) with no signs of leaks. The current owner put a nice ECS cold air intake on it and seems to have taken good care of it. Overall it's a very clean car inside and out. Clean Carfax as well. However, it has had three owners and it is the 2.0 with 97k on it. Is it a gamble with that many miles on it and it being the 2.0? What could I possibly be looking at in the near future with this engine and miles. Any info and advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I have A4 2013 with 2.0 CAEB engine. CHECK THE CHAIN TENSIONER!!! Make sure the chain is the newest version and the tensioner also. google for it. the most common problem for that audies. other than that is less important. you will probably replace turbo soon also.
I realize that I may have been lucky but it is worth trying with LESS heat in the beginning to just expand the aluminum and loosen the corrosion. This is the pull method I used (instead of push) that only took about 15-20 mins to remove this absolute pita pinch bolt ua-cam.com/video/Z3iHasK8h9w/v-deo.html
Maybe using a penetrating lubricant like Knoc er' loose works 100% better. Pickle fork the 2 arms You beat off or a impact hammer with a chisel bit between the pivot and arm.
Why on earth would Audi make a replaceable suspension component without a considering metal corrosion possibility? Why not use an Aluminum bolt? Or a sleeve it with another material?
When the uprights used to be made of cast steel they weren't as bad, but this aluminum/steel corrosion is definitely the worst. My old Passat and A4 had the cast steel uprights still.
If the pinch bolts are seized it can take that long to get them out. Here in the UK alot of garages just straight up refuse the job. I've known Audi dealers replace the entire knuckle instead. It's one of the worst bolts I've come across.
This job is waiting for me.... On both sides... Tried to remove my bolts seized like yours. Thinking about getting an induction heater to heat just the bolt... But not sure if there is one that will work, I seem to remember that there are some that have detachable induction wire...
Maybe a 1000-2000w induction heater, but anything less is not worth trying in aluminum. The high output TS torch and MAPP Pro is slightly better then propane and it struggles but will eventually give with a few heat cycles. Best to accept its stuck and remove the entire assembly like the video, cut off the rubber boots so it smokes less and just torch it and penetrant oil.
What’s most impressive is you filming while working 😄 Right side came out pretty ok, I used 3 hours in total. Left side is a fuck up. Bolt snapped, got the head side out. 2/3rds of the bolt is still stuck. Nut is loose, I tried using spanners as leverage and turn the nut to pull the bolt out - no chance. I’m considering buying a second hand knuckle and upper control arms. Price isn’t bad. This much work on a single bolt is insane.
I had to buy a second hand knuckle and am on round 2 of getting that bolt out 🤣
It might not be for everyone, but after I got my original bolt out, I replaced it with a2-70 grade stainless bolt, with mild steel nut. Stock bolt is grade 8.8, so the a2-70 stainless is slightly weaker, but in this application the bolt is not bearing the load of the vehicle directly. A4-80 stainless is nearly identical strength, but hard to find in the length needed.
I live in the rust belt, and will say after 5 winters the stainless bolt came out effortlessly.
Well done, I went through this jog, end up damaging the upright, had to buy a new one, it wasn't that expensive here in France. the whole process took me a long time.
I think you have done it the right way and by removing the whole unit. I was very worry to discorde the upright with excessive heat.
Thanks for sharing your work and congratulation succeeding removing the bolt !
Im nearby with the drill out kit. I fought one for a whole day before I bought the drill kit. Drill kit gets it done in 30 min.
Seen people have luck using an air hammer on the nut side with the nut off the knuckle like you had it. Also seen people use a punch on the nut side as well. An air punch sounds legit too lol
ive had to take mine out on both sides, and live in vT where cars rust out quick, i used same kind of torch u did and also sprayed it a bunch and used a wratchet and had to keep heat on it to get it to spin,, once it would spin decent i put the imapct on it and spun the bolt fast and alot of the corrosion came out, the took bolt out and cleaned up hole then replaced with a new bolt with anti sieze on it ..
Spent 2 solid days trying to get these bolts out on my 2002 Audi A4. In the end I lost interest in the car & sent it for scrap
ahahahahahhah. this made me laugh
With impact and torch 10 min job no matter how stuck it is. 😊 done it on many Audis
It won’t snap the bolt ?
NOPE
@@Maineposted not if you start with light to medium impact level. Before even starting the job, spray it with lots of penetrating lub - a few times and let is sit for about two/three hours before you begin. But it's all about the heat. One good touch with enough heat (you don't really need a welding torch). Then some light/medium impact. Then let it cool down a little bit - the contraction of the metal helps break the oxidation some more (let "thermo-dynamic physics" help you out). Spray it with lot of lub again. The repeat with more heat for a longer time, and impacts in between - you can do some medium hammering at this point too (but don't "mushroom" it). Remember to change the direction of the impact wrench each time (clock-wise, then counter clock-wise). Heat, more heat, and then more heat...., and patience - that is the trick. A really bad one might take 30 minutes (mostly spent on heating/cooling cycles). By "cooling", I don't mean let it cool down completely to room temps.
Just did this after watching your video and you saved me a lot of frustration. Thanks for the help!
But what about the rubber on the upper arms, now they have to be replaced but I thought you said the upper arm top bolts wouldn’t come undone?
Three steps to repeat over and over again 😅
1.wiggle
2.penetrating oil
3.heat
i used heat and a air-hammer, worked the best for me
did you ever consider using a air hammer?
Who not do it the right way? give it time, a lot of time and gentle hammer it with the impact gun on lowest settings and squeeze the trigger slowly. It may take a 15 minutes or so but never fail. I've done a lot of these as a professional audi mechanic. and I've never fail. Rush it and you fail.
I put hi tensile marine grade stainless bolts and nuts in mine to stop mine from seizing in, my hub carrier is cast not aluminium.
I thought we weren't supposed to use flame on Aluminum spindles/Knuckles.
We're not lol
Right ... for any temperature over 200°C and time you have risk to modify the structure due to heat treatment and you modify strengt and elongation!
If the pinch bolt is such a PITA, and if you're replacing all of the control arms(big if), why not just cut the control arms in half and not worry about pinch bolts?
I snapped the bolt end of and then put washers on the nut end and used the nut to pull the bolt out just add more washer's as it starts to pull the bolt out eventually you can't get the bolt of just chisel what is remaining of the bolt out took about a hour but was worth it a mechanic tried the other side ended up getting another complete hub of eBay
Same situation here it’s backed out using washers but the end snapped off due to seizing again. Now not sure how to proceed
Do you have to bleed the car if you take it out
It says suspension noise repair. What kind of noise were u getting?
If you get the tip of the flame a couple of mm off what your heating it will go quicker. Hottest part of the flame is the tip.👍💙💛
I’ve learned a lot in the comments and still learn, I was gonna say the same thing to a friend but taking a back seat and just looking at how I do things I hold it up to the blue flame. When you check the instructions manual for this torch it shows various uses and the hottest use is actually up close like this on these mapp gas torches
@@NaptownTuner Fari enough, I sit corrected. Love your channel man. I have a B7 2.0Tfsi, most of your stuff seems to be b8 upwards, but I still love watching. LOVE from the UK bro. 😎
Done a few of these 'bitch' bolts before..MAP gas always works, just make sure to keep the flame on there for a good 5 minutes at a time, then cool it with a block of ice. Repeat a couple of times (heating/cooling) that bolt will start turning i promise you.
What about when bolt sides are snapped off 😇
Hey Naptown T, I am looking at a 2013 A5 2.0T with 97K. It has had the scheduled dealer maintenance up to the 45k. After that, just regular oil changes every 3-6,000 miles. It runs well, the engine all around is clean (underneath as well) with no signs of leaks. The current owner put a nice ECS cold air intake on it and seems to have taken good care of it. Overall it's a very clean car inside and out. Clean Carfax as well. However, it has had three owners and it is the 2.0 with 97k on it. Is it a gamble with that many miles on it and it being the 2.0? What could I possibly be looking at in the near future with this engine and miles. Any info and advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I have A4 2013 with 2.0 CAEB engine. CHECK THE CHAIN TENSIONER!!! Make sure the chain is the newest version and the tensioner also. google for it. the most common problem for that audies. other than that is less important. you will probably replace turbo soon also.
No no no , no heat. Aluminum will chang structure and will go brittle
I realize that I may have been lucky but it is worth trying with LESS heat in the beginning to just expand the aluminum and loosen the corrosion. This is the pull method I used (instead of push) that only took about 15-20 mins to remove this absolute pita pinch bolt ua-cam.com/video/Z3iHasK8h9w/v-deo.html
Maybe using a penetrating lubricant like Knoc er' loose works 100% better. Pickle fork the 2 arms You beat off or a impact hammer with a chisel bit between the pivot and arm.
Why on earth would Audi make a replaceable suspension component without a considering metal corrosion possibility? Why not use an Aluminum bolt? Or a sleeve it with another material?
Because they only care that the car lasts the length of a lease.
When the uprights used to be made of cast steel they weren't as bad, but this aluminum/steel corrosion is definitely the worst. My old Passat and A4 had the cast steel uprights still.
They have changed the design of the bolt on newer models it’s much less likely to seize now
This has been their design since 95, it's only gotten worse with each generation
mechanic charged 5h Labour to replace both arms ?
If the pinch bolts are seized it can take that long to get them out. Here in the UK alot of garages just straight up refuse the job. I've known Audi dealers replace the entire knuckle instead. It's one of the worst bolts I've come across.
Mine is in the garage for exact issue fun times
@@jackemery61 have £££fun££
This job is waiting for me.... On both sides... Tried to remove my bolts seized like yours. Thinking about getting an induction heater to heat just the bolt... But not sure if there is one that will work, I seem to remember that there are some that have detachable induction wire...
Mini-Ductor Venom
Maybe a 1000-2000w induction heater, but anything less is not worth trying in aluminum. The high output TS torch and MAPP Pro is slightly better then propane and it struggles but will eventually give with a few heat cycles. Best to accept its stuck and remove the entire assembly like the video, cut off the rubber boots so it smokes less and just torch it and penetrant oil.
my friend you to get your self a proper torch for that bolt
It's called a Turbo torch. But that's a baby turbo.
You destroy your car. Its aluminium.... you cant heat it up that much. You weaken it
Its just cast aluminum, heating it up and cooling doesn't affect the strength. If its heat treated alu, yes doing this would weaken it.
You can go to 450F before there is any weakening. I use a temp gun when I do it to make sure.
@@robertficek7586 That is the point! You take influence and modify the values for strength and elongation!
i have the perfect tool for this, very easy to work with, saves you a lot of time and effort,
Enquiring minds would like to know? Care to share?
I find way it was lot easy first use grinder cut the bolt both sides then snap the bolts then use pinch bolt and hammer then put New bolt 😂
One of the worst designs ever on a supposedly prestige motor car…
What a terrible design.
Please try my way no fire
This is all thanks to german engineering.
take out the rose