F-150 Ecoboost 3.5 Turbo Coolant Connector Replacement (Tips and Tricks)
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- Опубліковано 16 вер 2018
- there are a total of 3 different size coolant connectors on the truck (per side)nBL3Z6A968B . goes into the back of the cylinder head, BL3Z6A968JD goes on the side of the block, BL3Z6A968C goes into the turbo, you will need 2 of these. one for the top turbo postion, another for the side turbo position
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In this video I show you the steps and procedures necessary to replace the coolant fitting on the Ford eco-boost turbo charger. If your vehicle is high mileage or toes a lot in the season severe conditions I recommend replacing the coolant fittings attached to the block in cylinder heads as well. This procedure is relatively straightforward and work on F-150 and expedition model vehicles. Years 2013 through 2017. I hope this video has help you out if it has please like and subscribe. If you have any questions feel free to leave something in the comment section. Thank you for watching and see you next time.
torque specs needed for this repair:
exhaust manifold nuts----------------------
Install new studs 8.8 ft./lbs.
2nd step; Install new nuts 14 ft./lbs.
3rd step; 18.5 ft./lbs.
exhaust manfiold studs, 15 ft./lbs
turbo to manifold bolts 28 ft/lbs.
turbo water snap to connect fitting 8-13 ft/lbs.
turbo oil supply bolts 18ft/lbs.
----------------------PART NUMBERS USED IN THIS VIDEO-----------------------
down pipe gasket-BL3Z-9450-A (1 Req)
amzn.to/2GDOkOD
Gasket - F-150 (1 Req)
downpipe stud-W716667-S900 (1 req)
amzn.to/2XNc3TN
Manifold to Turbo gasket right side-CL3Z-9450-A (1 Req)
amzn.to/2PCEhxL
Manifold to Turbo gasket left side-CL3Z-9450-B ( 1 Req)
www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/...
W715673-S900
Turbo Bolt - (3 Req)
DL3Z-6K682-E
-----Turbocharger - Left Hand - 2013-2015
amzn.to/2GMj6oX
------DL3Z-6K682-F
Turbocharger - Right Hand - 2013-2015
amzn.to/2GyZLY3
top coolant line connector on turbo
amzn.to/2XHTksD
Front coolant connecto on engine:
amzn.to/2IGLRXf
Coolant connector facing motor on turbocharger:
amzn.to/2XCwhiW
Coolant connector on back of cylinder head.
amzn.to/2UWuxnz - Авто та транспорт
Great Vid! Couldn't have ever done it without the level of detail outlined in it.. You saved me big bucks! Thumbs up !
I’m happy to hear that! Thank you!
So it wasn’t too bad eh? I’m gonna be doing this pretty soon
how long did it take you?
One of the most informative how to videos I have ever seen on UA-cam! Unfortunately as Clint Eastwood said: "A man has to know his limitations" And this might be beyond mine.
Awesome explanation very helpful
This crap is definitely difficult to access. The neck pain alone sucks
Best turbo fix video yet. And I have watched a lot of them anticipating mine to start leaking soon. Thanks for the great photography work too. Well done all around.
Thanks for the video. I have a coolant leak on the back passenger side of the engine but couldn’t figure out the precise location without tearing it apart. After watching this video, I can now see that this is exactly where the leak is coming.
Big snow storm heading for Iowa this weekend so I'm going to tackle both turbos this weekend on my 2016.
Would've never even attempted without this video!
tackled this weekend. Really wasn't too bad, definitely a second set of hands made it a ton easier. Will see if this solves my little leak!
Juat did this today in the shop . Your video helped , thanks very much ! Was my first turbo to replace on flate rate and it went well . Appreciate your knowledge ! One thing i wish you would have incuded was getting the back coolant line back on the turbo . Had to have a co worker wiggle it around while i stuck it in the fitting . Thanks again tho my man !
Forgot to come back with my completion update… so, thanks to this AWESOME video I was able to get the job done. I happen to be retired military with access to the Redstone Arsenal auto craft-shop with tools, lifts, drained fluid dump, etc. All these amenities made the job so much easier than trying to do it in the garage. Also, shout-out to Woody Anderson Ford for having everything I needed on hand!!! And shout-out to the auto craft-shop staff, and management.
First off, Thank you for your service. I’m glad you had a real shop to fix this abomination of an engineering failure provided by Ford.
They had everything on hand because they need inventory for all the trucks being worked on in their shop because of this problem. 😂
Shame on them for not stepping up and paying to make it right.
They know their failure, and know it was a failure, because the swapped out materials on the ‘17’s and up.
I understand taking the good with the bad, but these issues are a bit ridiculous.
Beyond the grievances, Congrats on the fix. Feels good to get ‘er done.
I’m going to try and replace just the one back fitting without removing anything. We’ll see how that goes.
I’m actually more concerned that I should be doing more service if I’m getting in there to do these fittings such as new lines and trying to research if there’s a rebuild kit for the turbos I would hate if I do all this work and then the turbos start to fail and have to go right back in there.
Very nice video on how to change those gaskets. I just don't have the tool. But it gave me a sense of relief in knowing that Ford was not just telling me a leaky story. I had several leaks they mentioned it was covered by my extended warranty. Thank you for the video.
Fantastic video. Thanks a lot. I just replaced the leaking fittings on the wife's 2017 expedition and no more leak. Saved me a ton of money even if it did take me a whole Saturday. Had fun with pops helping me though. Thumbs up.
Great Video! No nonsense, just the right info. I was anxious about this leak on my Ford until i watched this!
2015 Expedition w 147K - Leak on drivers side, inside fitting as Aaron describes. Followed his instructions - but could not get outer exhaust nut off; not enough room for socket and wrench. No luck w/open end or gear end wrench. Also, could not break top exhaust manifold nut - with 2 nuts not moving had to find other plan. Followed comment by others and went forward with change of fitting while turbo still installed. Pryed metal coolant line out and pushed up enough to get socket on fitting. Removed, greased and replaced by hand. It was tight, for once glad I have small hands. Replaced outer coolant fitting. Changed oil seal, put all bolts back in and tightened. Had to use 2 pry bars to work inner metal coolant tube into fitting. Reattached all hoses, then filled with anti-freeze and fired up, test drive good - repair complete, fingers crossed!
I have been wondering why the turbos have to be removed especially the one on the driver side. It looks like you can just reach around and remove the connections. I think I’ll give that a try. It seems a lot easier than removing the turbo.
Good video but I haven't been able to unbolt the exhaust due to rust. Actually had to touch the top bolt off and the bottom bolt came out of the turbo. Now faced with having to get the bolt off of the flange. Not an easy repair just due to rust.
Joe
Mine broke. Had to drill and re-tap two bolts @@user-dw8dq9os2m
Great detail in your video. Got 285,+++ on mine. This is going to be my next project in the spring.
Man that's great mileage! I'm hoping my ecoboost last that long. Mines a 2012 with 111,000. I'm planning on keeping it for years. Bought it brand new. How the power at 285,000? Mine still flys
Having the same exact issues and I’ve watched this video multiple times anticipating it will be as easy as you made it seem 😅 wish me luck!
I'm new to the channel but I wanted to tell you thanks for the knowledge. I'm learning a whole lot to save me some labor $$$. I don't have all your tool but at least I understand what's going on now with my 2013 F150.
Fantastic video, super helpful. Wish all tutorials were like this
Awesome! Now I know what to get. Thank you and this video was one of the best straight to the point fixes.
Thank you! Glad u like it
Great video. Will be doing this next long weekend I get off from work.
Thank you for the detailed video was really helpful will be starting project soon.
Amazing, really thanks for this clear video
Great video guide! I was unable to break loose one of the bolts holding the turbo to the frame (with my battery operated impact driver) so I had to change both seals with it on. It was a serious PITA and a great exercise in patience but I got it done! Could have used a pair of smaller hands though. Thanks again for the help!
Next time heat the block in that area with a torch..itle zip right out.
Good God man! If you ever work on a 3.5 ecoboost in a Ford Explorer please post a video. I’d imagine the motor mounted transversely would’ve a nightmare compared to the F150. Great video, thanks
Thanks for the helpful video .
You're doing great !
Simply awesome really great video, thank you, ask for more on f150 3.5 liter ecoboost ,
I just performed this on the drivers side of my 2013 f150. This video was great and helped me a ton. Just to note on the 2013 3.5 I found the exhaust manifold to turbo torx are T50 torx and the oil feed/return underneath the turbo are T45 torx
how long did it take you to do?
Found that out after i stripped the bolts thinking it was 47
@@kevboost probably 4 hours. I got everything back together and the coolant fitting that goes into the side of the block was then leaking. I had to ride my bicycle to the Ford dealer for new parts and gaskets. Haha took the turbo off again and redid the process. Success. I did not change the coolant fitting on the back of the engine because I was running out of patience but I would recommend doing it while you have everything apart. About a year and a half later no leaks.
@@superair05 hi, do you recall the part number for the one going into the side of the block? I got it all back together and now that one is leaking. By chance was it the same as the turbo ones?
@@isaiahgleitz1939 Quantity of 2 (6A968-A) for the BLOCK
Quantity of 2 (6A968-B) for the HEADS
Quantity of 4 (6A968-C) for the TURBOS, two for each.
www.f150ecoboost.net/threads/coolant-leak-near-turbo.48953/page-4
This is gold. THANK YOU. I’m subscribing
I have a 2017 Expedition with a 3.5 litter engine. I had both driver and passenger leaks. I started with the passenger. You will need a really good light, preferably with a rotating magnet. Remove negative battery cable. Jack up car, jack stands for safety, removed the upper inner wheel well...lots of plastic tabs and 5.5 mm socket...maybe even 8 mm...or 10 mm. Remove the engine plastic tabs closest to the front of the car. I also removed one of the air intakes that leads to the turbo and loosened the other one to have more turbo wiggle room later. I had both turbo fittings leaking. I half took off the turbo. Changed both while off. I removed 3 nuts off starter, not the electrical connections. I removed the 2 exhaust bolts. I removed the 3 manifold bolts. You will need to get the 3 manifold bolts and the triangular manifold gasket if you don't want to reuse the old ones. I got 3 manifold bolts and the gasket. Remove the 2 bolts to the oil line. I did not fully removed it. I was able to wiggle the turbo loose to where I could change both turbo fittings. Wear gloves if you don't want finger cuts when handling the exhaust part of the turbo. You will need a 3/8ths 45 torx and 50 torx. Also long extensions and a wobble extensions...and universal joint sockets, both 3/8 and 1/2 inch.... They helped. Be careful with the brake lines as they are near when wiggling the turbo out. Once everything was loose I removed the tang with a long pick from both sides of the turbo. I used a pry bar to gently wiggle both lines out of where it sat. Be patient. I am a novice and it took 1.5 days to do the passenger side. Breaks here and there. The best of luck! Tomorrow I will do the easy side...the drivers side. I only have 1 fitting leaking, closest to the wheel well. So that should take me an hour or so.
Just bought a 2012 f150 with the 3.5L and it's leaking. So thanks to this video I know I can do it myself.
So informative! Thank you.
great info, well presented... thanks for posting this
This is awesome and great details. My truck needs it done with only 45k miles. Wish you lived in Houston, I'd pay you to do mine. Again, great video!!
Mine just started leaking from there with approximately 180,xxx miles 🤦🏻♂️
Great video! Thanks. 3 Housing bolts are actually t50 just fyi
Nicely done. Just think I pulled the cab on my pickup to do that. I did both sides pass and driver. Such a pain
Awesome job man keep up the good work
Hi Aaron, excellent video appreciate the detail explanation
thank you, very well done video, couldnt have even thought about doing it without this help. appreciate it. V
Straight to point and good quality and tips 👌
thank you so much sir. You are awesome. Great detail video. Cheers
thank you!!
Awesome video just well done 👏
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO.
Thanks for the video. First set of fittings I’ve done on these 3.5’s. Had the passenger side out in 30 minutes. 🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻
That’s awesome!
Waited on parts all day. Got both back in before I left today though. Thanks again for the video.
So this video helped you with the passenger side? Mine is leaking from the fitting just under the manifold near the firewall! While I'm in there I plan to do all the connections though.
@@kcoop99 did u replace the one at the block on the passenger side? If so did u have to remove the a/c compressor ? Praying it’s possible without removing compressor that would need to be drained of Freon
@@cologeroanello7852 I did. If you remove the wheel well, you can really see it up there next to the firewall. I used a large crescent wrench to get it out. Not easy but definitely doable.
Just had to have this replaced, but didn't see the video before taking into the dealership. I thought the powertrain warranty through Ford Protect would cover it.. It did not. $1200 repair for one turbo. Insane. Thanks a ton for this video!
Every time I take my truck to dealer for something the bill has been over $1200. Insane...
@@regularguyfixes31424 years later, what's the minimum bill now for basic things... $2100? Ridiculous yea
Just got back from the dealership. They said it's the fitting plus 2 broken bolts. Altogether it'll be 4850. I'll be doing this myself instead
@@butsugen That is a RIDICULOUS price, Ford! They must think we are all idiots. Just because everything has increased 2X to 3X over the last 1-3 years doesn't mean they should 10X the cost of the max this job should ever be! They've absolutely lost a future customer after reading that.
@@ChonkTek 1170 for parts but I got it for 60 on Amazon. I'd be working over a month for free to get this fixed. It would take me nearly a decade of buying a gallon a week of coolant to reach that that repair cost if I left it.
Amazing video. Thanks.
Perfect. Thanks!
Great video! Thanks much!
Thank you!!
Thank you very helpful
Excellent. Thanks.
Nice video!! Thank you! What are the part numbers for the parts needed on 2016 3.5L to get this same job done?
Best video here for this nonsense. What a pain to plan taking the turbo out. Anyone here just removed the fittings and left the turbo in place?
Mine just started to leak on a 2013 thanks for the video you saved me big time.
glad to help, seems to be a common issue on these trucks, i guess the dealer charges big time for it too. cheers!
@@AaronHinesAuto yeah, only like $2500.... lol. At least my recent quote.
@@CB-dl1fx is that to do all 4 lines though?
@@bigpicturethinking5620 Good question, they didn't specify. I didn't get it fixed and am waiting to take it elsewhere when I can find the time. Such an inconvenience.
@@CB-dl1fx Especially because the new ones have a banjo bolt design that just doesn’t leak at all. What a sorry design.
Just wanted to let you all know my progress… I started removing the wheel well lining to verify where my leak was coming from (all my coolant would puddling on the passenger side). What I found was nothing around any of the coolant line fittings on the passenger side. With the skid plate removed I followed the rear/ bottom of the engine with a flashlight to the drivers side… there it was. Residue under the driver turbo oil pressure/ return lines. Also, the white chalky, and wet combination, around the fitting on the inboard side of the turbo; between the turbo and engine. Wow… with all the coolant I’ve found on the driver side I never would’ve thought the origin would be on the opposite side. So check very closely before doing unnecessary work!!!
More to follow… I couldn’t continue as I had ran out of time. Putting the passenger side back together, and tearing apart the opposite side would have made me late for work (would’ve been late even if it were on the right side). So, will jump straight on it tomorrow. Today, I did brakes, and rotation, before I got to the turbos (sufficient time for them to cool while I was doing the other maintenance). I use the craft shop here on Redstone Arsenal (I love this facility), so vehicle has to cool after drive.
Thank you for this information. What I'm gathering from your post is that in order to diagnose where the leak is, you would recommend removing the skid plate rather than each wheel well, right? I know the wheel wells will need to be removed in order to do the actual work, but I'm just talking about diagnosis.
thanks for the video. hoping to tackle this when the weather warms up.... currently around -20° lol so I'm not about to try and do this now.
Yikes! I’d wait too. It’s 41 in AZ this morning and I feel like going home! Couldn’t imagine -20
@@AaronHinesAuto Thanks for the response. I was out today looking at it again since it is warmer. My passenger side is the leaky one, and I am wondering if it is normal to have the coolant and oil lines/fittings leak? I see coolant for sure and also spots with what looks like oil. Also, The lines are dirty/wet all the way up, so while they may be leaking at the turbo, they might be leaking further up. Are the fittings on the other side of those lines the same? I appreciate any insight you might be able to give.
Thank you for the very informative video!! What are the part numbers to that gaskets and fittings needed for this job?
2 years after doing this repair on my drivers side turbo (using this video), I now have a leak on the passenger side turbo coolant fitting. I completed the repair over the weekend and just a word of caution there is quite a bit of extra work involved in the passenger side. The starter needs to be removed which is surprisingly easy. However, the AC compressor also needs to be unbolted which requires removing the stretch belt that goes from the crank pulley to the ac compressor. Removing that belt is not fun but it's doable. Removing the ac compressor is only needed if you are going to change the coolant fitting that goes into the side of the block which i would recommend doing if you are this far in. I did all 4 fittings on the passenger side with the most difficult one being the one of the back of the cylinder head. Working at a decent pace I was in this repair about 10 hours but that also included an O2 sensor and replacing both belts.
Damn, if anyone ever says how these ecoboost engines are no more maintenance than the 5L, I'm send them to this post. I owned a 2011 3.5L and the timing chain stretched 1". Was done with Ford warranty but without warranty that would of been a pricey repair.... Now I have a 2017 5L with the 6R80 trans and couldn't be happier. I'll be driving this one until the wheels fall off.
😅😅 so I'm gonna have to unbolt my ac...that's what I was curious about...was wanting to replace the fitting at the block since I'm already deep into it anyway was curious if the bolts or tools would clear between the motor mount and the lines.. 😂 Hate Ford w a passion anyone who like these junkers has never has to wrk on one.
How did you manage to replace the fittings on the back of the cylinder head?
100% love these guys. The reason I do my own work is because there isn’t enough craftsmen like these out there that I’d trust to pay and do the job right. I’d rather just do it myself.
Great video thank you. I was able to change out the driver side between block and turbo fitting leaving the turbo in place. Drained Coolant, removed clip and used a pry bar to VERY carefully and slowly pry the tube back and push up just enough to get the socket on it. Do not not over extend the tubing or crush. Replaced fitting and reinserted the tubing. The tube will bend just slightly and not want to line so you will have to pry it slightly to line it back up with the fitting. So far so good no leaks and everything looks good. It is very tight to work in so small hands are a plus. Once coolant is drained which took the longest and when you pry the tube the remaining coolant will drain so you have to wait a few. Once coolant was out it took about 30 minutes to remove and replace.
Was this for the fitting on the back or the front? Mine is leaking from the back.
I was able to do the fitting facing the block (driver side) this way as well using a long prybar - HOWEVER my 2012 with 125k then started leaking from the fitting in the block (the other end of that line) so now I guess Im gonna pull the turbo anyway.
Very Good Information, got 2017, should it leak, I know what to do Thanks for the clear instructions
Cool. Thanks 🙏
Great video. How long did it take you from start to finish to fix it
Bro this is it!!
Thanx good job
very good video, I would like you to make a video of how to change the fuel filter of f150 v6
Great video! Any idea on the part number for the oil seals? I have an oil leak around the driver side turbo.
Pretty nervous about doing this on my 2016 passenger side, but thankful I found your video. I'll work slow and hopefully have some success. Thank you.
Any update
@@thomasspringer7184 totally! I'm a little over half-way through. I bought aftermarket manifolds from BD Diesel and they were backordered so it's taken a long time. I've finished my passenger side and am half-way done on the driver side. My truck doesn't have many miles, but before me was up in salt/snow/ice country. Getting most of the bolts off has been a nightmare, but I've been relatively successful so far (knock on wood). Happy to answer any questions you may have, just keep in mind this was all new territory for me.
@@johnnixon thanks for the reply good luck with the rest!
@@thomasspringer7184 FYI finished today. Had a pipe leaking and had to disassemble driver's side. My advice, replace all water pipes and connectors. I tried to go cheap and had two leaks after cleaning them up. FYI the Dorman aftermarket pipe doesn't fit good into the turbo. I had to wear it down by spinning a old connector on it with a wrench. Still wasn't a perfect fit, but I'm hoping it'll work on with the heat and pressure. Anyway, I'll let y'all know how it goes. No leaks so far (knock on wood).
Stripped out one of my torx bolts on the turbo. T50 not t47. Learned that the heard way
This video was beyond amazing I was quoted 1650 to get this fixed but I’m mechanically good enough to be Able to get this done and with how detailed this video was I feel even more comfortable!!
My only question is when I get everything put back together do I just add coolant back or do I have to do a whole coolant flush procedure
you don't need to flush..however you do need to fill the radiator all the way up, turn heat on full then start it with the cap off. fill as needed while it is running and put cap on and you should be good.
I’m about to dive into this project, and i’m gonna try to get to the backside bolt without removing the turbo but if I have to take the full route and go the direction this amazing video went I’m going to flesh the coolant until it’s clean and leave it empty and then I’m going to change the oil and empty it out until it’s empty and then pull the turbo. I know that there will be oil still in the lines but I’m hoping with dropping everything out of the vehicle it’ll be a lot less.
Putting everything back filling up all the fluids and she should be good to go for quite some time.
I’m just so pissed I put on a full exhaust from the cat back and my symptoms started when I was replacing the bolts on the exhaust it manipulated the turbo enough that a small leak became much greater and now I’m forced into making this repair or paying for it, but such is life.
I have a 2015 ecoboost, the peacock is on the driver side of the radiator. Hard to see for sure!
Great Video! Im not seeing the P/N for the oil gasket. Anyone know what it is? Thanks!
Fantastic video, thanks for sharing. I have a 2016 F150 Ecoboost. Every once in a while I find a few drops of coolant on the passenger side near the inside wheel. It’s not consistent, sometimes I don’t see anything for weeks. cannot find anything wet, I’m hoping it’s not the same issue
Inner prongs getting worn, temperature difference of dissimilar metals.
Mine started out like this
Buen video
Do both turbos have to be removed to do this job? Even more detailed question is do the oil lines have to be removed to do this job? I had my coolant line leak fixed by dealer last year and they did both sides and now my oil line is leaking a year later so I’m wondering if that’s something that would be covered under the warranty of work they did.
Thank you sir
Would like to add a little note regarding the T-47 Torx bit he mentioned needed to remove the turbo mounting hardware… it’s actually a T-50 (the new Ford hardware I bought needs a T-50; T-47 fits, but it’s not snug, has play.
Also, removing the spring clip with a screwdriver is potentially bad… the clip may shoot off somewhere it can’t be found. There is a tool for this… A/C and/ or fuel line disconnect tool. Specifically made to wrap around the line, and slide down into the fitting while spreading the spring. Good luck.
Actually, that last statement is kinda not relevant to the point I was making as those parts will be replaced. I work on helicopters, and must account for all things I bring onto, and take off. This helps prevent FOD (Foreign Object Damage). Just a good habit to keep count of all parts, tools, etc.
What all would I need hardware and gasket wise to replace the coolant lines? Do I need to use new bolts for the exhaust manifold and all or can i reuse them? 2014 ford f150 3.5 ecoboost driver side turbo supply and return coolant line replacement
Great video! You had mentioned linking a video with exhaust manifold stud replacement steps but I don’t see it. Can you link it please? Thanks so much!
My turbo coolant line is leaking on the opposite side of the coolant line behind the engine block not at the turbo and it seems impossible to get to even after removing the intake manifold. Any advice please?
Are you saying to replace all of the quick connect fittings or only the 2 on the turbo? They seems to be in pretty hard to reach areas like in between the firewall and engine. Thanks!!
Have you ever had to replace the back fittings , at rear of engine that goes towards turbos? That's my issue right now and I'm so upset I didn't get em done while I did manifolds.
So i have a coolant leak on my passenger side turbo but when i look at the coolant supply line its completely dry and now idk what i need to replace, any other possible places?
I have a 2017 Ford Transit 3.5 eco what do you charge for this repair
Any chance you could update your links? I’m having trouble finding the parts, aside from physically going into Ford and ordering from them
Just did this. Getting white smoke after about 30 seconds of engine running. I’m assuming exhaust from the manifold-turbo connection? They’re torqued to 28ft-lbs... well at least the one I could get my torque wrench on. Crank them down a little more?
I have a 2016 Expedition that started to leak. Passenger side. Looks like the fitting coming form the engine is the cause. Whats the best way to replace that?
Awesome video. How do you get the front coolant line Back into the clip there seems to be not enough play on it to clip it in fully
When your putting the turbo back in do you just force the back coolant fitting back in with pressure and the clip already installed? It looks like a hard place to get to. Good video. Also the 17 is the gen 2 3.5. Do the same fittings and gaskets apply to that motor?
How long did it actually take you? How did you align the rear coolant line and how did you press the rear coolant line into the fitting? Which way does the oil line gasket go in? Did you complete all this by yourself? I have worked on cars all my life, but this (should be a recall) is kicking my ass.
After I change I out the turbos, do I just add coolant until it’s in between the low and high mark and fire the truck up? I removed the top coolant connector of both turbos, in process of changing them out. There was allot thay deqined out. Was just wondering after I get done putting turbos on on how much coolant to add and if there are any special procedures to get the coolant to cycle through the truck or just add… sorry if it’s confusing
My 2015 F150 3.5 Ecoboost has a petcock on the Driver’s side of the radiator. When I drained my coolant only 2 of the 4 gallons of coolant drained out. I could not figure out how to get the rest out to refill with all fresh coolant
Aaron Hines, I've been on top, under and from the side and I cannot figure out how to reach the coolant fitting on the driver's side rear of the motor. I used your video to do both sides headers but have a leak at the back if the block now. Any advice?
Hi, I noticed earlier in the video when you were reviewing the water connectors you mentioned to change all four due to the possible line leak at engine when messing with coolant line. At the end of the video you decided not to replace the water connector at engine. Did you not change it due to it being impossible to reach without lifting body off of frame? Did the engine side water connector leak after fix was complete? Thanks for sharing awesome video!
I'm replacing the driver side turbo quick connect fittings that are notorious for developing leaks, and I noticed that the engine side of one of the lines isn't locking into jiffy clip its the one that has the torx bolt holding it with a larger quick connect fitting is this normal?
Have radiator fluid in oil on 2013 ford f150 ecoboost. Is this common .no overheating ., runs smooth, but also know its diluted the oil which is not good thinking maybe blown head gasket no smoke no hesitation what could it be
If the coolant lines are leaking would it make it all the way back to the back of the transmission pan and exhaust cross pipe mine leaks antifreeze from there I I cant find anything leaking
Did you change the jiffy tite fittings in the block or heads??
I dont know if anyone said this but the 3.5 on the 2015 f150 does have a coolant petcock, its just a screw and pull on the driver side of the radiator, bottom of it below the lower coolant output.
Also another edit. If you don't wanna drain the entire coolant system, ear plugs or coolant cork plug kits work well also for this including rubber hose coolant clamps at the tank and rad hoses help the coolant from flowing freely, the little things can save you ten or so minutes and even a few dollars in coolant, just if you do it this way, get ready to get a bit drenched in sweet toxic water, don't let your animals near it
I have a leakage follow that connector tube water line coonecter to the turbo but from the other end the one that is connected to the back of the engine ... any idea how to fix it.... passanger side
6:11 2015 F150 Ecoboost has a radiator drain. Drivers side with a red cap that loosens and allows coolant to flow out of the radiator.
I replace my passenger valve cover gasket and vacuum pump and i still getting a small oil leak down my exhaust. Any idea what else it could be ? Turbo fittings look fine
You have a part number for the line itself? Mine is leaking at the motor end of that line . I ordered the fitting for engine, but wan to replace the line as well while I’m in there . Can’t find a parts diagram anywhere online
@Aaron Hines in having trouble with your parts list. Is there a way you can message me the parts? Example: your showing 8 exhaust studs. Where would i need 8?
The fittings u put on the turbos are those the same size it can be used on either side of the turbo like 90 degrees?