F-150 Ecoboost 3.5 Turbocharger Replacement (Tips and Tricks)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 16 вер 2018
- If you have found this video helpful, and you wish to donate to me, follow this link!! its easy!!
paypal.me/aaronhinesauto?loca...
Follow this channel on twitter for the latest content updates and weekly Automotive Tips!!
AutoHines?lang=en
In this video I show the steps and procedures necessary to replace the turbo charger on a ford F-150 equipped with an eco-boost 3.5 L engine. Years 2013 through 2017. turbo failure is an issue I have seen with high mileage eco-boost engines. Number one complaint and symptom of a bad turbo is low power, surging power and dtc p0299. And sometimes misfire codes can appear. I hope this video to help you out if it has please like and subscribe. If you have any questions feel free to leave something in the comment section.
torque specs needed for this repair:
exhaust manifold nuts----------------------
Install new studs 8.8 ft./lbs.
2nd step; Install new nuts 14 ft./lbs.
3rd step; 18.5 ft./lbs.
exhaust manfiold studs, 15 ft./lbs
turbo to manifold bolts 28 ft/lbs.
turbo water snap to connect fitting 8-13 ft/lbs.
turbo oil supply bolts Stage 1: 71 lb.in (8 Nm) Stage 2: 30°
----------------------PART NUMBERS USED IN THIS VIDEO-----------------------
down pipe gasket-BL3Z-9450-A (1 Req)
amzn.to/2GDOkOD
Gasket - F-150 (1 Req)
downpipe stud-W716667-S900 (1 req)
amzn.to/2XNc3TN
Manifold to Turbo gasket right side-CL3Z-9450-A (1 Req)
amzn.to/2PCEhxL
Manifold to Turbo gasket left side-CL3Z-9450-B ( 1 Req)
www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/...
W715673-S900
Turbo Bolt - (3 Req)
DL3Z-6K682-E
-----Turbocharger - Left Hand - 2013-2015
amzn.to/2GMj6oX
------DL3Z-6K682-F
Turbocharger - Right Hand - 2013-2015
amzn.to/2GyZLY3
top coolant line connector on turbo
amzn.to/2XHTksD
Front coolant connecto on engine:
amzn.to/2IGLRXf
Coolant connector facing motor on turbocharger:
amzn.to/2XCwhiW
Coolant connector on back of cylinder head.
amzn.to/2UWuxnz
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
OEM part numbers from ford
PART NUMBER PART NAME
DL3Z-6K682-E
Turbocharger - Left Hand - 2013-2015 - F-150/2015 Expedition/Navigator/Transit
DL3Z-6K682-F
Turbocharger - Right Hand - 2013-2015 - F-150/2015 Expedition/Navigator/Transit
CL3Z-6K682-C
Turbocharger - Left Hand - 2011-2012 - F-150
CL3Z-6K682-D
Turbocharger - Right Hand - 2011-2012 - F-150
BL3Z-9450-A
Gasket - F-150/Expedition/Navigator/Transit (2 Req)
W716667-S900
Exhaust Stud - F-150/Expedition/Navigator/Transit (4 Req)
W520514-S440
Exhaust Nut - F-150/Expedition/Navigator/Transit (4 Req)
CL3Z-9450-A
Gasket - Exhaust Right Hand - F-150/Expedition/Navigator/Transit (1 Req)
CL3Z-9450-B
Gasket - Exhaust Left Hand - F-150/Expedition/Navigator/Transit (1 Req)
W715673-S900
Turbo Bolt - F-150/Expedition/Navigator/Transit (3 Req)
BL3Z-6N652-B
Gasket - Oil line - F-150/Expedition/Navigator/Transit (1 Req)
VC-3-B
Motorcraft® Orange Concentrated Antifreeze/Coolant - Авто та транспорт
I'm not a mechanic in any way. I just finished swapping both turbos on my 2013 3.5l. A few tips if you decide to do this. First, I've only done this once on one truck. However , the T 47 bolts were actually T 50. When installing, definitely get all the bolts in before you tighten any of them. You need the play to get many of them in. Last tip, if you can afford it, take it to the shop. It took me 14 hrs, and my hands look like I fought a cheese grater. Great video tho definitely helped me!
the hands 🤣
Bro you replacing your own turbo not being a mechanic is commendable
He ain't lying@@kevinmccalla5135
Great tips, I’ll add a critical tip;
DO NOT loosen the bolts for the oil line flange that bolt to the bottom of turbo until AFTER you remove the upper coolant line and it drains completely even if you think it’s drained from the radiator hose, it’s not and you’ll be draining that all back out of your oil pan.
I think we all can appreciate videos like this helping little guys who are not afraid to take on jobs like this with great information from videos like this.
Thank you for taking time to make video 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Literally saves me time after time with these Ecoboost videos. Part of being nervous is not knowing. He explains it clearly every time.
Outstanding explanations for disassembly. As a tech, I always like to see what other folks are into. I have a 2018 EB and I appreciate what you have done here. Some day both my son, (2012 EB) and i may have to do this. Thanks
Great job!!! That was the best repair tutorial I’ve ever seen! Thank you!
Great video. You convinced me that I need to take my 2012 F150 to the dealer to have my turbo fixed. Thanks. ;)
Hey what were your symptoms? I've got a 2012. I believe one of my turbos is going out. I could hear the turbo bearing kinda screaming one day and power was going in and out(I'm sure loss of oil to it as ive seen a wet leak at that turbo) . My truck normally would stay in 6th gear and pull up small hills easily. Now it stays in 5th and goes all way down to 3rd to get up hills. You can feel the turbos kick in and out and it will throw you back in the seat if it's in 3rd gear when they kick back in. Check engine light coming on and going way. Then Sunday I finally got a wrench. Had to pull over as it lost all power. I turned it off then went to crank. It took a little longer to crank then started up, drove fine again for a bit. Then last night driving I got a wrench again. Turned off then recranked. Drove fine again.
Yea eff that
What did dealer charge?
@@SolomanTiger too much
@@regularguyfixes3142 definitely get diagnostic but really could be turbos and not expensive change i bought a 2017 with 140k miles on it i guess owner before problem but there also small turbos and rated for 150k miles and once fixed not a problem since
Thanks sooooo... much for the helpful video! Had the dreaded turbo coolant fitting leak on my 2012 f150. I was able to knck it out in a little over a day. Only trouble I ran into was the (3) turbo to manifold bolts stripped when removed. I picked up some new bolts from my local Ford dealer and was able to slowly tap the manifold threads back to normal. Thanks again for your very useful videos...Subscribed:)
Honestly there was nothing easy about this twin turbo replacement job. 22hrs to replace both turbos, replace and upgrade to stainless coolant lines, flush radiator, oil change, brake fluid flush, front/rear differential gear oil change. Don't forget the Ford Motorcraft friction Modifier. 4oz per differential. Next month we will do the tranny fluid flush, transaxle fluid flush, PCV valve replacement. The most difficult part of this job was the coolant lines between the firewall and engine. I still have bruises and cuts on my arms. Thanks for the great video and information. Whoever at Ford designed the POS springs that hold in the coolant lines needs to be hung and shot. At the very least they could have put a tab to grab with needle nose instead of a dental pick. The easy part of the job was getting the air out of the radiator. Piece of cake. The Exhaust bolts I recommend soaking in break free for a week/month before you do this job. Soak them bools down like a $2 whore. Use a couple of cans!
I just used PB Blaster for the bolts in which two of them broke. Very fun drilling those out so I can re-tap them.. and yes, about the coolant line.. he definitely needs to be hung by his balls 😡 had to replace mine by the time I got it out.. with that said the engine does have +250k miles
😂😂😂😂😂😂
I did this over the weekend and it wasn't easy, but I was successful. Now after driving it to work, it started smoking. its blue smoke and it does stop after a while of driving. What I've read, it appears to be the turbo went bad. Have you ever ran into this before. BTW thanks for the video, it really helped me. I have a 2013 F150 3.5 ecoboost.
Update: I put the oil return gasket on backwards.
I have a 2014 am about to do same job. Oil leak 118000 mi Should I not think about putting new turbos on?
What would be a average time to do this repair?
@@birneymoore3649if your fast and have Done a few probably could do it in a few hours if not probably take a solid day by the time you get it all buttoned back up and on the ground
Never done it but that all depends on how good you are with tools this to me looks like it woukd take 3 hours tops in mt garage @birneymoore3649
Thanks for the update!!
Good job with your video man, there is a few videos out there but yours is the best, I just change the turbo on the driver side of my eco boost (2011), and I couldn’t do it without watching your video. Thank you.
Did you find the driver side was much different? How long did it take?
Nice video. Very Helpful . You even showed an old dog a new trick on the double nutting to remove the studs. No idea why I never thought of it. Thanks Jerry
Great breakdown and walkthrough on steps required to remove and replace the turbo. Getting ready to attempt myself today, so was helpful to see.
How did it go?
Any Update on how your DIY went?
Great video, thorough explanation and walkthrough. I’m mainly a GM tech but just had a 2014 Ecoboost roll into the shop with a blown turbo. Wanted to see how others went after it, this video was a nice help 👍🏼
Hello What engine a 2.7 or 3.5 ? Can use the waste gate actuator . Thank you
My man! Knowledge is infinite and learning is a process. Great instructions and detailed.
Very informative and generous video. Working class ecoboost owners thank you.
Great video, bud. Simple, informative, and right to the point. Subscribed & liked. Keep it up, man.
Great video brother. Everyone is putting on these spd adapters and having problems pulling the studs. I think your way is the best way.
Thank you!
My dad is about to buy a 3.5 and I'll be the one fixing it so that's why I'm here lol, hopefully he gets a 5.0🤞🏼
Tell him to get a 5.0. This coming from an ecoboost owner.
Seriously.
Very informative, very straight forward well shot video. And clarity of the whole proceedure. Thank you for your expertise. Very well done. Jj canchola.
Thanks for the video. Just wanted to see what I’m up for . a lot of helpful steps from you. Thank you.
Great video! I might have this job to do soon. You sure made it look easy.
to all the HATERS out there...my 2014 f-150's turbo just went out an my truck has ...328,492 miles on it so they ill last an still keep ticking....fingers crossed ill get another 3k out of her.....thanks to your this vid man great job
Update bro? Mines has 250k
Outstanding video, really enjoyed your attention to detail. Just replaced driver side turbo on my 2014 3.5l EB and it helped alot watching this.
I am about to change the turbo on the driver side of my 2017. What was the sign that your turbo was going out?
How did you remove the air intake going into the turbo, I feel like it’s extremely hard to pull out even after loosening the clamps.
@@Headbustaturkeycalls no warning at all
@@zapanimate it will come out with some effort
Heyyy!!! Thanks for the video soo freaking helpfull ¡!¡
This whole video was spot on. Thanks for taking the time. Beers are on me!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very helpful video, I wish you could work on my F-150
Wow, I just found this video after my left side turbo had an oil leak and I had the Stearlership replace it and it cost $2K, luckily I had an extended warranty !
Super helpful and concise, good work!
Great video, 102 K miles and I have the bearing whistling sound too, Replacing both just in case
thanks for the video. great info
Great video! Thanks
and yes i really liked your video on removal of turbo..mine is the left side though...again thanks for a very detailed video...mike
Nice explanation of a very technical job.
Really good video. I've watched a few and this one covers all the issues related to removal very well. Nice quality.
thank you very much!
Wish I would have watched this before pulling both turbos. 😂😂 great video and well detailed. Thank you. Those coolant lines suck if you don’t pull those clips
Nice. Im a mechanic myself and that was 👌
Nice needed your video to replace my turbo thanks.
Dang dude! Great video. Well explained!
Very helpful,,thanks 👍
Awesome video, thanks for the quick education.
So why did you take it out in the first place...just out of curiosity or was this just a how to? Or did I miss something? Good vid man. Thanks for sharing.
Its interesting that ford got rid of the turbo mounting brackets on the next gen Eco, definitely makes lining things up easier. Also idk what they were thinking with the hard coolant lines they are a pain in the ass to force into place.
Team Neudimensions
Agreed, I just did this on a 2011 F150. There’s one more bolt behind the turbo holding it on. Real pain to get to.
just watched very helpful, how much more complex is the driver side seeing the steering shaft is in the wayo on a 2012 f150, thanks.
Thank you, I wish I had you to work on my vehicles
Thank you so much for the information great video
Great video
One thing everyone should do is replace the oil feed screens, it requires removing the oil line when you remove the turbo. It gets clogged when you change the oil at the recommended mileage by Ford...
Those filters are cheap, $30, good advice
Great video it seems like a lot of work
very good video - Helpful!
Just thought I'd tune in to see how you go about this and what's involved with it. I'd imagine it would be similar on my 2010 Lincoln MKS, just probably a little tighter to get into. I'll crawl under there and have a closer look now that I know exactly what to change. Though with 120K miles I'll probably just dish out the dough to replace the whole unit rather than just a few gaskets and seals.
Did you end up doing it? How did it go? My Taurus sho blew the turbos so I'm tryin to see if I should tackle it
@@memolopes1044 I actually have not touched the turbos in all this time... surprisingly. Currently at 165k miles and there's more oil caked up on the outside of the one turbo that was leaking then, just recently knocked some of it off, but still nothing major and the car still functions just fine, so I don't really wanna mess with anything there. I'd say if you have the time and the space, go for it, I would. I recently changed one of my cats fully exposing the turbo and didn't look TOO too bad to tackle if I had to.
Great video thanks.
Wondering whether to replace the turbo oil and coolant pipes on my 3.5L 2016.
The exhaust manifold studs tend to go (turbo's weight and vibration are hanging on one stud) and the exhaust gasket can vibrate like a reed: can sound just like a squalling bearing or bushing. If that's what is happening, might be worth upgrading the exhaust manifolds (similar conditions on both sides, so if one has gone the other won't be long.
Maybe do both sides so you don't have to go back in). Planning on using the SD Diesel manifolds; thicker, with longer studs.
Great video where are you located need this done on my truck.
I'm about to replace both turbos on a 2013, it calls for 4hrs left side and 6.5 hrs right side but it seems to be relatively easy. Considering I just did a head gasket and a piston on a mercedes C230. These turbos are a much more straight forward job.
I have a 2017 Expedition with a 3.5 litter engine. I had both driver and
passenger leaks. I started with the passenger. You will need a really
good light, preferably with a rotating magnet. Remove negative battery
cable. Jack up car, jack stands for safety, removed the upper inner
wheel well...lots of plastic tabs and 5.5 mm socket...maybe even 8
mm...or 10 mm. Remove the engine plastic tabs closest to the front of
the car. I also removed one of the air intakes that leads to the turbo
and loosened the other one to have more turbo wiggle room later. I had
both turbo fittings leaking. I half took off the turbo. Changed both
while off. I removed 3 nuts off starter, not the electrical connections.
I removed the 2 exhaust bolts. I removed the 3 manifold bolts. You will
need to get the 3 manifold bolts and the triangular manifold gasket if
you don't want to reuse the old ones. I got 3 manifold bolts and the
gasket. Remove the 2 bolts to the oil line. I did not fully removed it. I
was able to wiggle the turbo loose to where I could change both turbo
fittings. Wear gloves if you don't want finger cuts when handling the
exhaust part of the turbo. You will need a 3/8ths 45 torx and 50 torx.
Also long extensions and a wobble extensions...and universal joint
sockets, both 3/8 and 1/2 inch.... They helped. Be careful with the
brake lines as they are near when wiggling the turbo out. Once
everything was loose I removed the tang with a long pick from both sides
of the turbo. I used a pry bar to gently wiggle both lines out of where
it sat. Be patient. I am a novice and it took 1.5 days to do the
passenger side. Breaks here and there. The best of luck! Tomorrow I will
do the easy side...the drivers side. I only have 1 fitting leaking,
closest to the wheel well. So that should take me an hour or so.
You will need 1 long pry bar to get the coolant line back into the inner turbo side and 2 pry bars to get the coolant line closest to the outer side of the wheel...one to push it down, the other to align it in place. I put 1 pry bar up against the exhaust manifold for centering while the other pry bar pressed down it into place...both fittings with the tangs in place.
Great video work.
Great video....how do you change the right side return line or the passenger side?
Hi !... Great video... So the purpose of this is because the turbo was leaking coolant? I have the same situation But I didn't know until now that I see your video. I checked my car and leaks some time not in a constant way . Just randomly. thanks!
Thanks for the video I just bought a 2014 3.5 twin turbo and I want to add a little more beef can you please give me information thanks. It already has a cold air intake and a silver bullet throttle
When I did this I found it was easiest to just pull the exhaust down. I also struggled with the forward pointing coolant line, since the new one was just $19 I cut it and replaced it.
Excellent video! Thanks for sharing. 1 question...was this a turbo repair or replacement? If repair, what exactly did you repair and what made you decide not to replace it? Thanks.
Great video, good job explaining every nut and bolt!! I recently bought a 2015 F-150 3.5L Ecoboost, and I believe that I have a small oil leak from the passenger side turbo charger. It is very odd, I looked under the hood and noticed white smoke coming from there, but not a lot and not constantly. Only after running the engine at highway speeds than coming to a stop, also when idling for a while. It is very strange thing. I am 95% sure it is coming from the turboc area but i still can't pinpoint it.I saw in your video that the oil line is located between the turbo and the block, maybe that's why I can't see the leak... Thanks again!
No the line your thinking of is for coolant not oil.
Did you fix your problem? my truck is doing the same thing ..
same problem with my 2014 (smoke on passenger side). Leak was from vacuum pump. Google vacuum pump leak on ecoboost.
@@BodeknockerBrumbill Correct I just changed my vacuum pump. Mine was smoking also. Although Ive noticed I do have a coolant leak at my right turbo. Havent tried to tackle that one yet. Is it possible to just remove the bushing with the two o rings in it with out taking the turbo off?
What was the reason for the service and what was the total time of the job. I'm considering buying a Lincoln MKS with ecoboost. Good idea? Bad idea? Interested in your opinion. Thanks
Oh thank you for the video. I had this job done by a mechanic, The truck was smoking a lot and burning oil. He said that it was a turbo in need of replacingafter he installed the turbo on the driver side the truck started fine but then all of a sudden it turned off and won’t start. It keeps on smoking a lot. Any ideas why this is happening? Thank you in advance
The coolant is leaking from the turbo charger. What do you recommend? Did you actually replace the turbo charger or did you just replace the bolts to stop the leak?
Excellent tutorial. Thank you.
Anybody know the best place to purchase a new turbo?
Ever do the drivers side? Would love a video of that side as well. Thank you.
What is the easiest way to tell what turbo is bad? My car is making racket when revving sounds like bearings but can’t tell which turbo it is? Should I fix both? Car has 110k 2015 might consider trading it in and going back to Japanese lol.
What's the torque specs for the 2 bolts for the oil line?
I’m getting ready to replace my turbo. Have a question. I don’t have a torch but want to make sure I can crack those exhaust bolts off charger. Would a regular propane torch be hot enough to get those cracked loose?
Would love a Gen2 version of this vid. I'm finding it's not quite the same as the previous gen. ☹️ Also, was there a torque for the turbo adapter studs?
I have to do this on a 2016 Explorer Sport. Passenger side turbo oil leak and wastegate is worn and making a constant rattle. There is no access like on the F-150 from the wheel well. Any tips?
@aarron Hines what was the complaint from the customer on this? Just wondering what I should be looking out for on my f150. Thanks
Great vid, thanks. 1 problem that I have come across is the upper coolant tube. Yes you can rotate it upwards to get it out of the way but there is a good chance that it leaks at the back side of the cylinder head when you are all done. Pain in the ass on that year engine as the brake vacuum pump is mounted on the back side of that head and it needs to be removed to replace fitting. Replace that fitting now as it will save you some grief later. The lower coolant line has a bracket attached to it so there is hardly any chance of the fitting leaking on the other end of the line which is behind the A/C compressor.
Duke Pufus is it the vacuum pump that had the fitting?
Hey men I have the the F-150 2015 too and when I test drive they tell me that need this work done in the turbocharged and I can heard the leak when I push the gas pedal. But after they “fixed” I start feeling a vibration on the gas pedal when I’m driving and sometimes in the break. Do you think that can be for bad work on the supercharger? Thanks
can you tell me what will cause the upper hose on the turbo drivers side to blow off on acceleration really need help with this issue
I have a high mileage truck "210k". At idle the driver side turbo sounds like a bucket of rocks, and under acceleration the wastegate is very noisey. Will be parking it soon to investigate further.
I noticed an oil leak on my 14 eco 3.5. Researched and decided to tackle the vacuum pump. Replaced it, but noticed afterwards the burning oil smell still happening, and it’s coming from the gasket on the turbo. Do you think that could be remnants from the oil leaking from the above vacuum pump, or is there something that would cause the gasket area on the turbo to be smoking?
Super helpful video and follow up on all the comments. I’m an occasional DYIer but I only have one vehicle so can’t afford to not having it working the next day. A nondealership mechanic just quoted me $7500 to do both turbos on my ‘13 F150 3.5L Eco. Question: 1) Do I really need to replace both (like the mechanic says? 2) Should I get all new parts like mechanic is telling me (except gaskets of course) 3) How much should I really be paying to have this done? Sounds like I should get a second beater car and try this myself. Thoughts?
Give it a shot. I’m pretty sure I have a coolant leak on one of my turbos.
Sort of a silly question, but i have the 3.5 in my SHO. I think the engine is turned in terms position in the SHO’s. I have a turbo in the front and rear. Which i need to replace my front turbo, is that the right or left turbo???
Hey I have a 2015 2.7 f-150 I am looking at buying a used turbo how do I no that the wast gate is adjusted properly?
To whom may attempt this repair, you can speed up the job dramatically by splitting the turbo housing instead of removing the whole turbo and dealing with rusted downpipe.
where would you split it at?
@Ashley Evans look up splitting a turbo on youtube. I'd show you pictures but I don't think I have any anymore. Basically, you go under the engine, undo the 2 bolts for the oil feed and drain lines, remove the 10mm nut that is also under the turbo and you remove that band. Next you go back up, remove the 10mm nut holding the wastegate actuator, vacuum lines, intake and charge pipes. You then heat up the turbo with a torch where the band was to expand it and you should be able to separate both sides of the turbo with some force. When you put it back, you clean the exhaust side of the turbo and them you heat it up until it's pretty hot. You push the replacement turbo against it and you align the small pin to clock it correctly.
Aroon this turbo system needs to be replaced when and if I want to upgrade what’s the best option?
Can I put a 2012 Ford F150 3.5L eco-boost engine into a 2013 Ford F150 3.5L eco-boost and if so, what modifications must be made? Tia
Is a oil change necessary after replacing the turbo? I literally just got it done less than a week ago before turbo went out.
How do you get the front coolant line over the waste gate when putting it back in? Do you have to remove the waste gate? I have the turbo back in but the coolant line is behind the waste gate and I can’t find a way to get it over it to install into the coolant line fittings I just replaced. Also how much play on the turbine shaft? Under no oil pressure is there a little? Anyone know what’s acceptable and what’s not?
Did your turbo blow off sound like it was under water? Mine started doing this a few weeks back. As long as not under a load or high RPM it’ll drive fine. Once at high speed or rpm, it’ll throw a misfire code and go into low power mode. As soon as I clear the code on the fly, it goes back to normal and drives fine.
I am having a wastegate problem with my 2013 f150 3.5 EcoBoost can I rebuild the turbocharger to fix that?
Could you get to that top of that coolant fitting without removing the turbo?
How can you reach the connector at the back of the engine .... its very diffciult to access there i remeove the uper intake but still not room any video to help
hey aaron....I have a 2011 f150 EcoBoost, can I put 2013 turbos on it? I notice the front part of the housing is completely different. can those housings be pulled off my 2011 turbos and put on the 2013 I have?
I’m having blue smoke upon startup and was thinking of replacing the oil supply tube for the driver side turbo.
Did you replace the turbo with new or was this a service only job that you performed in this video?
Purchased 2 brand new turbos wanted to verify the waistgate was working on my original turbos and neither one of them moved one side held vacuum but the lever never moved the other did not hold vacuum. I got 2 new turbos in an i tried to verify waistgate lever action on them and neither one moved they both hold vacuum any ideas its a 2016 F150 3.5. Just curious...
Do you replace the coolant line itself or just the fittings inside the turbo
You mentioned puting the clip on the coolant line before you put line back on. Does the line just snap in place?
FORD F150 IS THE BEST SELLING TRUCK FOR MANY MANY YEARS AND BUILT EXTREMELY TOUGH TODAY
42 years !!
Based on this video it doesn't seem to be tough.
@@ericmucha8950 Based on a single truck, eh?
Towards the end of the video you say change the oil…are you talking about the engine oil? If so are you supposed to drain that as well like the coolant before starting?
Does anyone know of a video showing this being done on the driver side turbo?
My 2015 ecoturd has 111,000 miles with 5400+ engine idol hours I am having to change the drivers side turbo due to a bearing whistle sound. your video is super helpful. I did not know about the coolant drain part had I not watched this video. GOt any tips for the 4x4 vacuum system and the wheel bearing noise it makes, mine always has a wawawa sound then when i shift into 4x4 it goes away.
can I ask what your oil change habits are for this 2015 ecoboost, as well as oil type ? Just curious.
I had that 4x4 issue on my 2015... there was a vacuum leak in the hub assembly so the hub had to be replaced. Took it to the dealer 5 times about the issue before they fixed it.
Dorman has an IWE permanent fix I used on my truck after multiple IWE replacements. I would recommend you look into this. I’ve had no further issues.
Daniel Hucklebridge hello. My oil change regiment is 5k and I use mobile 1. Also found out it wasn’t the turbos it was an exhaust manifold and it’s not completely fixed. Had to take it to the dealership.
My dealership charge is $175 per hr, quote 5 hour repair drivers side coolant leak.
90%of the time those coolant lines will leak at the other ends , I always replace them and it requires a lot more labor and skills. As always people just show the easiest repairs when it takes way more effort than what I’m seeing.
How much are turbos?
$1,400 Canadian dollars
I’m having a hard time trying to get the oil feed gasket and o ring to seal any tips?