2011+ Ford F-150 3.5L GTDI Ecoboost Engine P0299 Turbo Underboost Quick Diagnostics
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- In this video we show you what to check before replacing expensive Turbos.
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This is the Vacuum/Pressure Tester I Recommend:
amzn.to/33P5JkG
Latest Ford Blow Off Valve (2013+)-
amzn.to/3yv0GCy
Forscan is free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software:
Download Here-
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ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend-
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As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
thanks i will order the mityvac today
Teacher can you do a video please for a diagnostic in a ford f150 3.5 whit code.p0035.
Its 2019
Is there an software/app that allows me to use my Smartphone as My code Reader? Either APK or IOS? I’ve seen some Diesel stuff like this, but nothing “Forscan” specific.?
The intercooler i would repair with high strength long cure epoxy once i had cleaned with brake cleaner washed with dish detergent / hot water dried and sanded prepped correctly it would last . Its is used in hvac repairs were welding cant be done easly . In Canada the intercooler would be double + the price for sure . The key to epoxy is propper prep
Nothing like a mechanic who knows how to diagnose a problem rather than a mechanic who only knows how to replace parts.Great video as usual Brian.Thank you Sir.
When I did service work we called them shotgunners replace enough parts and you will fix the problem,not very talent but eventually you might get it fixed and they still didn’t understand how they fixed it
@@stephenthompson1319 We call it the parts cannon at work. Just blow enough parts at it until it finally works.
"Mechanics" are most of your parts throwers and tire/brake/oil change jockeys. A good 'Technician" is what this guy is. Actually diagnoses thoroughly and properly and then makes his repair.
Ya i wish i brought my ecoboost f150 to this guy instead of ford 3 times for the timing chain rattle. Just found out Im only 30 minutes away from his shop
This is the issue i had a ford dealer i took to changer mechanic rather than a mechanic that fixs
Awesome video Brian…really helped me in fix my 2013 F150 3.5L that had P0299 code!
Just as you suggested…my blow off valve had a hole in the diaphragm!
For other DIYers...when I replaced the blow off valve on my truck, I did some extra steps that helped me:
1) I removed the underbody wind deflector to give me more room to maneuver under the truck
2) I removed the resonator mounting screw allowing me to rotate the resonator up counterclockwise
while still attached to get better tool clearance to remove the blow off valve screws
Like Brian predicted…I broke the left side screw in process of removing my old blow off valve. The screw I used for replacement
was Ford part number W507065-S437 ... get quantity 2 to mount your new blow off valve with new screws.
Took me 25 minutes to complete the job including removal and replacement of the wind deflector.
I cleared my code and started the truck….no check engine light and had turbos again!
I know very little about working on cars but when my under boost code came up I came to UA-cam before going to the dealership. $50 and 10 minutes later, my 2015 F-150 ecoboost is like new again and no check engine light. Thank you for the video!
What did you find wrong and how many things if any did you replace?
Monty, there was a hole in the blow off valve. Prior to this, I changed spark plugs, cleaned fuel injectors, cleaned all the maps sensors.
@@adammccullough218 Thank you do much for your help in guiding us novices. Did you use CVC/CRC (sp?) for sensor cleaning?
What is the name of the harness that connects to the pressure valve?
Aren't we lucky to have Brian on are side...thx Brian...
He’s amazing and I will never get tired to watch his videos
@@JuanBMedina so true...i'm. Retired mecha nic and still learn from his experience...
I would adopt him.
@@TherealTony_Chin lol...
I have been able to work on issues on my 2004 F 150, if not for Brian, I would never have attempted!
You are a true talented mechanic hard to find nowadays. I wish I could have you working on all my vehicles
I had the same code in my 2014 3.5 ecoboost. All the hoses and connectors checked out fine. I pulled out the pressure relief valve and didn’t see any noticeable tears in the diaphragm, but I ended up replacing it anyways. After clearing the codes, the problem never came back and I have the turbo boost back. Moral of the story is just because you don’t see a tear in the diaphragm, doesn’t mean the valve hasn’t failed :)
I appreciate this comment This is very reassuring since this has been my thought for a little while now... I too did not see a tear in the diaphragm and I'm about to change my BOV out we'll see
Did yours fix it?@@andrewmock75
Thank you for saving me thousands of dollars!! Never been so happy to see a little tear in my life 😂. Went to the dealer for the P0299 code and of course they didn’t actually diagnose anything and just wanted to immediately replace the expensive turbos 🙄 asked them to explain how they knew they were bad and they made up some lie about “the wastegate being so loose he could move it with his fingers”. Obviously, not true. And even then, I asked well why not just replace the wastegates themselves then? “We can only replace the whole turbo assembly” …gimme a break!! Appreciate your videos a lot! Can’t trust anyone these days… might as well learn to do things myself
I'm a ford dealer tech. I 2nd this video. This guy is spot on. I only do driveability issues. Seen this several times. I dont even follow the pinpoint test anymore.
Pinpoint testing is a waste of time for ford warranty to waste time and get the customer frustrated.
follow makuloco instead 🛌💤👀
This video just saved me a bunch of money. The large hose for the air inlet coming out of the turbo had popped off. Check engine light came on during a 400 mile trip, and the truck was running like crap. Put the hose back on, tightened the hose clamp, and it’s the best the truck has run since I bought it 9 months ago. I think it was working itself loose for a while.
Thank you very much for this video. I got a CEL for low turbo boost pressure while traveling in the Rockies recently. Went through all your steps and found that my blow off valve had a hole in the diaphragm. Luckily I was able to get a new one at a local dealer, throw it in and enjoy the rest of our vacation with plenty of boost in the mountains. This was most likely what I was hearing previously (mooing sound while accelerating) and the thin air in the mountains made it more apparent. Thanks again for the help.
My check engine light came on the other day so I took it to a repair shop to have it checked out today and was told my turbos needed replaced glad I found this video I am going to do some troubleshooting myself before I decide to replace my turbos
Kudos to you Brian for pointing this out. Makes you wonder why Ford or the aftermarket doesn't offer a stone guard for our coolers!?
Wonder if you could line x that aha
Man I have seen a lot of Automotive Repair Video's on UA-cam, Your Videos are the BEST, Very Clear and your instructions are Super Clear also ! Thanks
Thanks Brian your the best! You're making it a little less painful to own an Eco-suck. Have had to make 7 turbo system repairs in under 80,0000 miles. Guys...never buy an Ecoboost. "EVER"!
Twice the hoses, twice the clamps, twice the wastegate diaphragms, twice the oil lines, and a big ol' intercooler mounted up front, down low, with nothing shielding it from road debris. What could go wrong? Then there's this gimpy blow-off valve mounted on the back of that. With bolts that rust solid. Thank you again for your videos. You're saving people's sanity, not just their money. Very methodical which is key on a complex beast like this one.
I found this repair applicable to a 2017 expedition with the 3.5, pulled the blow off valve from the intercooler and found a small tear in the orange seal was causing only an under boost code with no noticeable loss of power, great info for sure.
I don't own an Ecoboost, and would not want to , but I love watching Brian explain this stuff!
This was the exact problem I just had, found the issue in under 5 mins thanks to you and this video, bought the part and now to wait for a few days for it to get in. Saved a trip to the dealership and the ungodly amount of money they would’ve charged to troubleshoot and then to mark up the part 100% on top of that. Ordered through your link on Amazon and was a touch under $50 and will be about 20 mins total of my time. Thanks again! 2014 with 59k miles
My 2016 expedition just started throwing the under boost code at low rpm/high throttle. Thank you for the checklist to look at.
Ebov is the primary culprit
@@RadDadisRad Ebov?
Ramble on Brian...I’ve learned so much watching you to help me maintain my own 2012 EB.
Great Video. And Thanks. I went straight to the Blow Off Valve and had the same issue. Hole in the Seal. I would not have spotted the small hole without knowing it was a common failure. First inspection it looked ok, then I pulled on it to reveal the hole. Thanks again for the valuable post.
Thank you for all the in depth videos. Very helpful. I spent all day yesterday changing out all the fluids under my F150 it has 88,000 miles on it. I couldn't believe how black and nasty the fluids were. So thank you for the heads up on not going by the manual intervals of when to change fluids. Thanks for saving me lots of money down the road. Have a great day Sir.
Just saying that I'm so glad I found your videos. I've said it many times that I hate my 2012 FX4, but I'm stuck with it, and these videos are the best by far I've seen. Thanks! You've saved me $$ and time!
Shuttering again, 35 mph or more if give it gas, loses power, CEL flashes, I've had it before. Changed throttle body. This time cleaned it, sensors, new MAP installed, improved for about 15 minutes....changing plugs next. Cheap...to expensive. Heck, I've even changed out the 'brain' in my tranny before.
That is very good explained. Will see if I ever get that code in my shop, but if I'll do, I'll now what to do. Thanks
Thank you so much for uploading this video. You have not only saved me money but you also allowed me to keep my sanity. I was sure my turbo's were on their way out. But now that I saw this video I immediately pulled that valve out and replaced it and my truck is back to it's snappy elf again 🙂 Cheers!
Me too! I've been following him since he was working for the dealers and this kid is one top notch auto technician!!!
Very thorough! Good stuff to check, especially if you aren't experienced with turbocharger systems... Some cheap easy fixes can be misdiagnosed as an expensive repair.
Or intentionally misdiagnosed . it's hard to give anyone benefit of the doubt.
If you do the VTA mod you can hear if the EBOV starts bypassing. Makes diagnosing so much easier.
THANK YOU for posting this video! I've had an intermittent CEL which then became a steady light recently. I've noticed power has been down, especially when towing. I was dreading an expensive turbo repair, but using your video, I was able to start checking for leaks and quickly found a torn valve. It was an easy an inexpensive fix - actually surprised how power is fully restored now!
Lucky you, I was told to replace turbos
Was it easy to do.? Just bought a 2016 and after getting on the gas the check engine light comes on and lack of power.. code says turbo under pressure so I'm assuming it's same thing. Or hope it's only that
@@marckirby7356 Yes, the job isn't difficult. This video shows exactly how to do it. My local Ford dealer had the part in stock so that was also nice.
@@yandia8336 ty
Thank you my man!!! That valve must have had a twin... Mine was torn same place. I did job without pulling anything out but it took some patience to remove the bolt on left as you look up. A flex neck and 8mm on 3/8 drive, an extension and lots of prayers and patience got it out. I did notice the screws are alluminum so I can see why they twist and break. Thanks again!!!!!
Brian is doing the Lords work..
I'm a new technician and I had this code on 17 ford expedition 3.5L ecoboost almost 100k miles. I wanted to know some of the things that caused this code and a lot of the confirmed fixes on identafix is replacing the turbos, but im not the one who likes throwing parts on a vehicle and crossing my fingers. I found this video, checked the various items you did, and wouldn't yah know it. There was a tear in the Bypass Control Valve just like this one. Thanks for your help, and definitely subscribed 👍
Thank you! As usual, a great detailed how to video. You are a blessing to F-150 owners.
Wow I’ve learned so much watching this! I have a 2012 Ford F-150 Fx4 ecoboost with 186k and I want to go over everything! This helped so much! Thank you!
Did you ever see a performance improvement by chance? A buddy of mine has a 13 eco boost and really blows mine out of the water
12:58 To remove that broken bolt with a tig welder. Deposit one drop of .045 - 1/16 filler rod to the top of the broken stud/bolt and let it cool for a minute or so. Repeat that process to build a spire with drops of filler rod until the spire is tall enough to grab with pliers. I have removed as small as a broken 6-32 tap using this technique. No need for the cool down between tig drops if not in a plastic part.
Great timing on releasing this video. Had a 14 Escape with 1.6 .with p0299 . Pulled TCBY off of turbo and found it stuck in . Parts department says only comes with $1100 turbo.
@behexen250 Should be another way to replace that part without purchasing the whole unit. Ripoff!
Actually just here to see the different parts of the turbo system and the hoses that goes to them. Absolutely love my 3.5 ecoboost. Great video on explaining things
awesome video. I just replaced that part on my '13 F150 (140k miles) a few weeks ago. I typically get that code when I tow my travel trailer. knock on wood, that takes care of it. I used some stainless steel bolts instead of screws on that valve. I find it funny that they provided a second set of holes to use. keep up the great work.
Same issue for me under same condition, but at ~70k. The second set of holes is for when the rusty screws break in half when attempting to remove them. And yes replacing this valve solves the problem seeing as the old one will have a hole in the diaphragm that is visible to even a blind mechanic!
Also during this part install I did a flush of my CAC and woah did it have lots of oily crap in it. Runs better, mpgs went up a bit, overall good fix.
Now the cold idle is another story....Brian please do a video investigating that.
Great video! I had a p0299 on my 2015 Ford Expedition at 78k miles due to a hole in the blow-off valve diaphragm (looked exactly like the one in your video). Much cheaper repair than turbos!
How do you do a smoke test?
Thanks for all the videos. This one was the blow off valve. $59 from the dealer now no more 299 code. You make some of the best videos. Thanks again.
The same exact thing happened to mine. The dealer replaced one of my turbos (under warranty). Still had the leak. Ended up being the $50 blow off valve. Haven’t had the code since it was replaced.
Did the code keep coming back until it was fixed? I'm wondering if I had a weird event happen that caused the code. I cleared my code and it hasn't come back for over 2 weeks
Wow, I finally know what’s under the hood of my F150! Thanks for the thorough walkthrough.
Thank you so much for doing this video. Your pre check suggestions saved me some big coin. The hose on my cooler out was off.
Awesome video, nice to watch someone that knows how to diagnose AND shoot a nice video without any BS. Thank you
I have found a new Source of Knowledge!
Thanks Brian! I have a 2013 Ford F-150 Ecoboost with 71K miles. I'll be looking for this problem thanks to you.
Does it have a carburetor?
My 2013 f150 had the same hole in the blowoff valve at around 80k miles. Good call checking this before buying new turbos.
Just like to say that I watch your videos all the time and was excited to see one on the 2013. I've had mine sense 2013 and I have not had any trouble at at out of mine. I change my oil and filter and air filter every time it's needed. I just rolled 200,000 miles and i have changed spark plugs four times now. Other than that I have not done anything to it. It's been a great truck and when it's time I will get another one.
My 2016 Expedition just threw this code but it went away after a few days. The fact that ine of the reviewers said he replaced his without dropping the cooler gives me hope. Temperatures have finally cooled down which is good because I didn’t want to sit under the Expedition on the street in 90 degree weather.
I'm Rogelio Robles from Albuquerque New Mexico.. I've been working on my F150 2013 and you video was very helpful to me thank you
I recently joined your channel have learned a lot and really appreciate many of your videos & just realized yesterday that we have the opportunity to subscribe & get actual benefits in the form of ideas & feedback... I have a 2013 F-150 screw XTR 3.5 EcoBoost. Started intermittently losing boost a couple months ago Way under powered But seems to have at least partial boost in the mornings & random times throughout the day. The first two codes I pulled when it started was p0299 and p054A or B the cam/crank correlation code is no longer active & I can't find where I wrote it down & don't remember if it was A or B. Today it throws p0299 and p0016. I had a shop that I trust Do the full timing and cam phaser replacement ~2 years ago. No cam phaser rattle only pass side turbo wastegate rattle. Both wastegate diaphragms work smoothly & no linkage slop. Actuator solenoid tests ok. Initial look @ BOV appeared ok. Cleaned all 3 MAF sensors. Replaced bank 1 cam sensor A (intake?). No leaks. The change in codes from the start to now leads me to believe the issue might be in the VVT's But what also threw me off is after changing that cam sensor & cleaning the 3 intake air sensors it ran with more power than I think it ever has + no boost loss for full day of driving & then started the intermittent loss of boost the next day again. I then replaced the MAP cuz it was the only one of the 3 sensors that didn't look good and I thought maybe cleaning it improved the issue temporarily... No fix. The P0016 and previous P054A? led me to believe the noisy pass wastegate wasn't the cause and had to be in the electrical or valve train. Any thoughts besides Holy Sh*t this guy can ramble? Lol thanks for your time.
I just went through this with a customer that had a timing job done with aftermarket parts and 6 months later p0016 p0299. If you are getting a p0016 code it is causing your p0299 intermittent boost loss issue. A p0016 requires a timing job plain and simple. The Ford stuff last much longer. I am sure the shop used aftermarket. The 54 code is the VCT solenoids every time.
You are a true asset to ford owners.
Very informative, recommended for anyone with this code. Nothing like tightening up a boot or doing a simple sensor or valve cleaning/fix instead of a spendy shop diagnostic fee.
This solves my problem with our 2016 F150 2.7. Thanks for the helpful guidance!
Fixed! 2015 F-150 2.7 code P0299 going into limp with wrench light and low power/ no boost. Replaced the "EBOV" valve with Ford PN: AA5Z9U465A $81.33 list. Also available as Standard PN TBV1007. Don't get too hung up on torn diaphragms, leaks etc. This one looked good but was still causing the fault intermittently. Just replace it!
Don't have a ecoboost but definitely quilty info 👌🏽
Very appreciate your knowledge exactly the same problem a tear on My valve on a f150 3.5 2017.
Thanks for the awesome video. Followed along and found my loss of power issue in less than 15 minutes it was fixed.
Great video! I wish my local dealer would watch all of your videos. I am currently in the "warranty process" for new turbos. I've checked everything you have gone over and the dealer has looked at the truck twice. After a call to the tech line, I have been approved and will be scheduled as soon as parts come in. End conclusion, the dealer said it was carbon build up on the wastegate.
Keep em coming...
Dealers don't care about these videos because it lowers their "service monies"
Yeah, I know. Wishful thinking...
Update, both turbos have been replaced as well as the solenoid valve. 3 trips to the dealer. I got it back and I can still hear boost bleeding off.
Ouch,!!
Unfortunately had one of the bolts snap so gotta buy another part luckily it’s not expensive but sure enough had a rip in the diaphragm. Thanks for the helpful video!
Imagine spending all that money for new turbos and it doesn't fix the problem.............
My worse fear.
Wow... Brian, I found some clamps loose. At least three were fairly loose. Also, found the air deflectors (for lack of the proper name) that keep the air directed to the radiator that are on the left and right sides of the radiator in between the headlights torn at the point the plastic push tabs hold it to the radiator shroud. Thank you for the advice!!! Next I’ll check the sensors to be sure they are free of dirt/ oil buildup.
Man what a great video. Ima honda master tech, but moving to an independent shop. Want to familiarize myself with some other brands, how they do stuff, what common issues there might be, how to most efficiently tackle some things on other brands. This video. Top notch info. 👌
Thanks, always learn something watching your no nonsense videos
Your knowledge is amazing. Thank you for inspiring confidence by making us understand these failure points.
Isn't it a crying shame how that air cooler is exposed to the hazards of the road. Gravel. Flying sticks and other debris. There ought to be a two-level diversion screen baffle to stop hard objects but allow air to go through. Or maybe a very stiff wire mesh like a copper chore boy but made out of steel. Or 2 thin ones. That air cooler looks like a big ongoing problem and the engineering thus far is obviously far too minimal. There's nothing robust about it. I would expect more from Ford.
Hello from Canada.
Thank you!!!
Having a new 2021 Ford T350 Van with 3.5 Eco, your advice and videos give us great insight.
Thank you!
First rate video. Great introduction to troublehooting this system. Thank you.
I’m working on one of these f150’s (used car inspection) I have that under boost code. I performed a smoke test on the charge side of the intercooler pipes didn’t see any leaks I also used shop air to move both turbo wastegates & the both move, I didn’t know about that bov. Thx for the info 👍
How do you do a smoke test?
Exactly what was wrong with my 2013 3.5L eco boost, thanks for the video.
What were your symptoms and codes?
Thanks for making this video. I have a 2014 with similar mileage. So far so good, but if I encounter this code I will know where to look first. 👍
Seen lots of photos of the BOV (AA5Z-9U465-A) with torn diaphragm all otears seem to look identical - I would say it's a design flaw personally.
Your video was AWESOME and helped me find, remove and replace my BOV., with ease and confidence
Jacked up the front of my 2013 F150 FX4 and removed the screen that is below the intercooler. Then pop off the wire retainer for the Outlet Duct on the drivers side, then carefully push up the duct, watching out for any oil. If you don't move the duct up you will not be able to get to the left bolt.
BE CAREFUL undoing the bolts, lots of articles about them breaking off, so be gentle and take your time, plus they only screw into plastic. Snap them off and you may need to replace the adapter (DL3Z-9V456-A). Again, awesome video and much appreciated!!!
All good now and no more error P0299 :o)
Nice. Some folks work for money others are enthusiastic to get it done.
Thank you for the video! My 2013 was giving me that exact code and since i already had the front end apart to change the water pump i took off that bypass valve and sure enough it had a hole. It seems allot of people in the comment section have similar issues. Is that valve a dealer only item? I've been looking online and cant find other sellers having it for sale. Edit: here is the part number for the turbocharger diverter, air bypass valve, AA5Z-9U465-A If you search by the part number you will find sites that have it for half off the dealer price, if you are not in a hurry to replace it.
Hello, thanks for this great video. I believe it is helping people around the world. Mine is an ecoboost f150 3.5l from 2011 and downs have this blow off valve and I have this issue. Turbo underboosting and then engine being in a safe mode. 6 months ago I can't solve the issue
Hey did you ever figure out your issue? I'm having a similar issue on my 2013 f150
Thankyou very much for this video . This video can be applied to any vehicle big or small any manufacturer that fits turbos to their engines
My 2014 Ecoboost F150 blew up coming off throttle. I was pulling a heavy-ish trailer and I was merging onto the highway, as soon as I let off the throttle I heard an awful thud then a major clunk followed by a lot of rattling. The cylinder 5 injector was stuck open and when I let off it hydro locked the motor. It was at 60,860.3 miles. Got a new engine and sold the truck and bought a 2015 Hemi Ram.
Awesome video and really detail on the diagnosis couldn't find any video that really diagnosed the problem and you went on and beyond to explain it . This is why I became a subscriber on your channel Brian ! Keep doing the good work my man...😁🕵
Good Afternoon. THANK YOU SO MUCH for posting these videos.
I am having a problem on my 2011 F150 Eco boost. It started with the exhaust leak on the driver's side manifold. I have a buddy who is a mechanic and I was in a previous era. We replaced the manifolds and all included gaskets and rings. Also did the timing chains as the truck has 149,829 miles. After work was don, truck fired right up and idles like a dream however driving is very wavy and threw a P0299 code. I've checked all the tubes and lines and can't seem to see a problem. Since this is a 2011, it doesn't have that blow-off valve in the charge air cooler.
We are at a loss. Do you have any video's of "older" Eco boost diagnostics???
Have you gotten it figured out?
@@NASAxDRAGZ nope. Just towed the camper 1300 miles. Every time we got a long grade or steep hill, 2nd gear pulsing. Gonna replace the turbos when we get home. I don't know what else to do.
@@cookdonald so odd… I found a disconnected hose form the intake to the throttle body seems to have somewhat fixed the issue, but I’m not 100% sure yet. I wish you luck man!
@@NASAxDRAGZ I'll check that in the morning. I'll let you know what happens in the way back
@@cookdonald goodluck!!
This is so helpful...thanks Brian. I enjoy learning from your videos.
Top mechanics know system Description, how everything works and know to isolate, You are Sir , Not a parts Changer/Shotgunning Parts , which most mechanics are, Great Information
Awesome, awesome job with the video and the explanation/tutorial of the turbo pressure system. I need the blowoff valve, I'm ordering now and have more confidence to do it myself! I'm a fan now. I'm hitting the Like, and Subscribe
Love watching your videos to understand the different aspects of Ford design and what to watch out for. I’ll keep that in mind for my 2015 F150. Glad you still have some of the old Triton 5.4 2V content on here, too for my 2003 F150.
Great tutorial, I just watched and hopefully this will work. 13 low power and smoking oil. Thanks Brian
Terrific video! You have excellent explanation skills!!
YOUR VIDEOS ARE AMAZING!!!! Thank you so much. Another code resolved.
I had this after doing a full timing job. Turned out I had just not fully connected the intercooler outlet quick disconnect. Popped that fully in and problem went away! Was scary since blue scan tool only reported turbo replacement as a common fix 😳
Thank you for making this video cuz this is exactly what's going on with my truck I appreciate it
Just replaced the BOV on my 2013 3.5. Had a similar ruptured diaphragm. Hoper, won’t be seeing that code anymore, thanks!
Huh weird? I’ve got 315,000 miles on my 2012 f150 ecoboost (original turbos)never been replaced !. Over 200k of those miles are towing miles 🤷♂️
Yup some are troublesome and some have no issues I know what you are talking about.
FordTechMakuloco I think that goes with everything and I’m sure there are a lot of different factors if they go bad
Shed Hunting Worldwide just bought a 2020 F-150 with the 2.7 ecoboost. I hope I have the same luck as you sir 🙏🏻
Tim Schultes I hope you do too !
Top notch video as always and glad to see the PRO confirm what us shadetree dudes were seeing. Not going to go on a tangent about Ford not at least doing a TSB on this (they should have) but at least the updated part seems to have a more robust diaphragm than the old one. BTW only used the motorcraft one and think its a bit pricey for what it does but at least its OEM.
Brian I hope you do a video showing the crappy cold idle on these engines and what you recommend to fix them. At this point, have done plugs, coil boots, and map/maf clean but still have garbage idle at cold start until about 5 minutes in. Going to try the wastegate test but thinking this is something to do with an idle control outside the turbocharging system. Also on my truck it seems like you can hear an audible click right before the idle settles down. Only reason this is bothering me is that wife was driving the truck the other day and said it idled badly all throughout her drive.
Really trying to avoid a timing job on this engine!
Not sure if this is like your problem, but my 15 3.5ev had a bad idle for about a year, 60-75k miles time frame. Then it started going into limp mode, codes pointed at throttle control valve. Replaced that with OEM and cleaned the sensors while in there. Idle problem went away for the most part, no more hunting.
If your vehicle is high mileaged you may carbon build on intake valves. When it's cold the carbon is hard and doesn't like to seal the valves all the way till it's warm.
@@JasonW. no codes yet but will look at this. Thanks for the advice
@@wilwiener yes I have been thinking of that. Had a Hyundai with the lemon 2.4l in it and the valves were carbon coated at 110k. There is a video on YT where a mechanic dumped gasoline into the top end of the 3.5 and let it eat thru the carbon and varnish. Then did an oil change and it ran good. May not go that backyard but maybe it's seafoam time
@@aaronturner1072 my throttle didn't kick out codes until it went into limp mode with wrench flashing and 2mph top speed (restart truck fixed this sometimes). And even then that code went away after about 50 miles, so I ended up bringing a Bluetooth scanner with me to find out what was failing
Brian, can you speak to 11-12's that have boost solenoids at each turbo, and the vacuum tubes to each port? How those fail and how they work with the WG solenoid on the manifold, and also speak to the failure rate of the BOV diaphragms on the 11-12's?
I've been getting hesitation under a load, towing, etc, then got the P0299 code.
How about where we can get parts during the pandemic since most places are back ordered? Thanks you
Salvage parts off a low mileage wrecked vehicle might be the best bet
Ok so those are on the compressor housings and have the same style rubber diaphragm. There's a hose that comes off that bypass valve port to the CAC tube. Use pinch off pliers on the big rubber hose to block it off 1 bank at a time. Usually there's a weird noise associated with a diaphragm failure on these. You can power brake and build boost as well without driving. Whichever side you pinch off and the noise goes away, bingo! Easy to replace too. 3 screws and a triangular plate comes off and the diaphragm will come out with the spring too. Good luck to you.
And we have them at the dealer.
@@MrImportcartechthank you 🙏
Hey Brian I have a 2011 3.5 EB I have a afe stage 3 cold air intake that came with the truck.I have gotten the truck looked at and one turbo is bad on the passengers side is leaking oil but I hear a howling or suction noise coming from the intake. I have check the actuators of the turbos and both hold pressure I even checked the diaphrams from the side of the turbos and they are both in tact no cracks or cuts. But I still can’t find where the howling is coming from. After a cold start you can hear it howling then is gets to normal idle and it’s gone until I put it in gear and accelerate or when I let off the gas.
Do you have a video on waste gate flutter on what it could be. Wastegates open and close in moderate throttle No codes and how to sync the 2 wastegates.
I had an underboost code awhile back, and this was indeed the case. Now that I'm turning up the boost I wonder how much pressure this stock valve will take. I didn't want to go full out on a Turbosmart mechanical BOV, but now they make an EBOV, so I'm very tempted to try that. Have you seen those in person by chance?
EBOVs like to go bad. Easiest way to determine that is cross check command boost vs actual. One thing I did on my ecoboost was replace the turbos for quality BW units, performance turbos not production vehicle turbos, and replace the EBOV with a quality turbosmart unit.
Such a great video I really appreciate it my question is when you’re cleaning off the sensors do you like to use brake clean or a different spray solution let me know if you get to this and thank you so much you might’ve saved me from the shop.
Edit!!!!!!
Jackpot it was that valve I have a tear in the diaphragm and almost the same spot I’m going to get that ordered and replaced and we will see how that works out I will clean all the sensors out but after watching this video 20 minutes later under my truck I had that sensor out and that’s the problem I can see for now let’s hope that’s the only one.
Great video as usual! You mentioned cleaning the boost pressure sensor, what product do you recommend for cleaning it?
I believe it's CRC or CVC cleaner. Red/white can.
@@mont5584 CRC mass air flow cleaner .. do not use throttle body cleaner it will ruin your sensors!
Yesterday I heard a loud boom and lost power. The driver side lower intercooler pipe (outlet) blew off damaging the connection. I am interested to know why this happened. To blow that clean off requires a lot of pressure building up in the system. So what causes this? You mention the boost pressure and mass sensors and waste gate control solenoid need cleaning, anything else? Thanks for these videos, you help a lot of people with their Ford problems.
Just had this code come up today, checked the EBOV and did not see any rips or tears in the membrane, drilled the weep hole as well, also have dual catch cans. no mods other than a boost gauge
Those blow off mufflers are such a kill joy. I wanna hear my turbo’s if I’m gonna have them!
Thank you so much !!! my truck has the same broken bypass valve !!! very helpfull