How I Heat Treat My Knives In A Forge
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- Опубліковано 27 вер 2024
- The second video in my maker series I talk about how I heat treat in a forge. Theres a couple things I've learned along the way, a few "dos" and "don'ts" that have helped me reduce my chances of warping and get the best results out of my steel. A bit of practice and testing with your steel and your set up can go a long way when heat treating out of a forge, so hopefully some of the things I have to say help!
instagram @saccoknives
www.saccoknives.com
thanks for taking the time to make this video. It really helped. god bless.
My pleasure!
First off I wanted to say that your videos are great. The quality is top notch, you speak clearly and thoughtfully and your work backs ups everything you have to say.
One question i have is about your forge. I’m starting out in my knife making journey (just stock removal for now) did you build your forge yourself? If so can you point me in a good direction for the instructions to build it?
Also in the future, as your UA-cam audience grows it would be nice to have a way to support you outside of just likes and subs. The knives are too expensive but small things super simple kiridashis or “merch” would be nice 👍🏽
Thanks I'm glad your enjoying the videos!
The forge I actually built myself but I didn't follow any plans. I bought all the materials (burners, soft fire brick, sheet metal) and then I basically just assembled it on my own and had a friend weld the pieces together.
And thanks I appreciate that you want to support me. I will be hopefully working on some merch in the new year, I'll make an announcement when its coming.
@@saccoknives Of course, keep ‘em coming.
You probably don’t have any direct experience with them but I’m sure you did the research before hand, do you think the $100-$150 Amazon forges (like Mr Volcano) would be adequate? I’m mostly just looking for something I can use to heat treat kitchen knives. Or is it worth to just go the extra mile and diy it. From what I see they end up just around the same price
@@ExternalCrib sometimes buying it for roughly the same price or maybe even a bit more is worth saving your time. I don't have any experience with any other forges than my own, but those should be good for heat treating no problem. Just be careful with the ceramic fibre insulation, I hear it's very bad to breathe in. Make sure to do your due diligence.
@@saccoknives Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it!
Great Video, helpful
Thanks!
Well spoken very informative I always question whether I could heatreat 52100 now I know I can Thanks for the info, I have one ? how thick
Was your steel...👍🤙👏
I find 52100 to be quite forgiving! The thickness on this steel was 5/32” or .156”
Amazing video thanks for the info,How do you normalize the steel before heat treat?
Thanks! This was a stock removeal blade so I didn’t do any normalizing cycles on it. I buy all my steel from manufacturers who send it out normalized and ready to be heat treated.
Excellent advice! The only thing I do differently is I immediately place my blade in a vice after quench (as it cools) to straighten out any possible warps before full hardness is achieved.
Also a great way to keep it straight! Just make sure you’ve given the steel enough time to harden in the oil first
@@saccoknives At what temp would you take it out before going to the vice?
Thank you ❤
Are you going to grind your bevels before or after you temper the blade
I’ll do all my grinding after tempering. The steel would be a bit too hard and prone to cracking before tempering
would a microwave work?
I was thinking the same thing, i think so but im not a professional
Set to “popcorn”
My grain structure was super large, after doing some research I’m guessing I overheated the steel. Is it possible to ‘reset’ steel back to normal and then try heat treating it again?
Yep. Each steel essentially has a “recipe” that you can use to reset the grain structure. Usually holding at 1500F for 10 minutes and doing that three times. But it depends on what steel you’re using
Using O2. I guess I’m looking to ‘normalise’ the steel, right?
@@Koffetar yep exactly! I’m not familiar with the steel but it might be worth while annealing it too
@@saccoknives did some reading, made adjustments, and it really improved. Structure is much, much tighter. I think I can still improve it, but at least I’m going into right direction.
@@Koffetar Nice! also if you're forging the steel that might be another contributing factor.
Do you normalize before you heat treat?
Not on my stock removeal knives. I buy the steel normalized and annealed
@@saccoknives thank you.
Would you mind if I ask where you purchase your steel from?
I mostly get mine from New Jersey Steel Baron. I usually use 1084, but I’m very interested in moving into 52100.
I haven’t done that in the past because most everything you see says you really need an oven.
I think you’ve shown that you really don’t.
Thanks again!
@@dougclarke4540 I've found 52100 to be quite forgiving and a fairly easy steel to heat treat out of a forge so long as you're not forging it. If you are forging then yes I would recommend putting it through proper cycles in a HT oven. I'd also recommend parks 50 quench oil for the best and most consistent results.
I get my 52100 from NJSB as well, with each steel on their website they have data sheets for heat treating which is always a nice little touch
👏👏👏👏🤜🤛
💃😉
Great vid, whats the next video part??
Bevel grinding