PLEASE READ! There are various techniques used to heat treat steel. The method outlined in this video is a "Basic" method which has always worked fine for me. You don't have to use "cold" water, "cool" water is just fine. Many people prefer motor oil instead of water because it reduces inner soft spots as well as the chance of cracking the steel. Many also prefer to allow the steel to be slowly air cool after the tempering process, instead of quenching in cool water. Thanks for watching
electronicsNmore The medium used to cool or quench shouldn’t merely be a preference. What is used is dictated by the type of tool steel you are treating. W1 would be quenched in water as you illustrate. And who knows what a screwdriver is made of on any given brand right? O1 which is what I typically make punches from, would be quenched in oil. I use hydraulic fluid as it doesn’t stink as bad or scale as much. Not trying to be critical, just offering a little info. Excellent video by the way.
Tim is correct. There are water hardening, oil hardening and air hardening steels. Using the wrong method results in not only sub-optimal treating, but possibly a damaged crystal structure, which could result in cracks. If you use oil hardening steel, you shouldn’t use motor oil, because the additives can cause various problems. Use quenching oil, which also has the proper qualities. You don’t have to (usually shouldn’t) quench after tempering, but the temperature should be brought down slowly.
@@awashburn6944: my (lay) understanding (so take this with a grain of salt) is basically that the ideal is to heat slowly and to a (relative to the next option) lower temperature, and cool slowly (no quenching). But because it may be difficult to do a carefully-controlled heat (especially with comparatively primitive methods), another option is to "over"-heat the metal (for the given amount of tempering desired), but cool it quickly, to avoid other side effects of being at that heat. For tools without the (as shown here) plastic (or wooden) handles, that are comprised only of the steel, a modern option is often to heat in a (toaster or regular) oven, which can (sometimes) give relatively controlled heating, and thus not require quenching. Other methods of slowing the heating (e.g. heating in a bed of brass shavings, by heating the container the shavings are in, rather than heating the tool directly) would presumably also not require quenching. Check out the Clickspring channel for some beautiful examples of that (warning: he takes all this to a whole other level; be prepared for some awe), including using a very careful process to get beautiful aesthetic tempering. For practical use, of course, this isn't required... and another common method is to over-heat one part of the tool to let heat slowly seep into the actual tooling surface(s), thus giving greater control where it's needed, even while using relatively crude heat sources (edit: as shown in this video, as well; see 9:17 and 10:17). A nice example of that (from Clickspring) is here: ua-cam.com/video/FFWSaffwZOo/v-deo.html ... and here's the aesthetic version: ua-cam.com/video/NhjiIPohUyw/v-deo.html You might also find this video about case hardening to be of interest: ua-cam.com/video/V_Mp1fNzIT8/v-deo.html And/or find useful information in some or all of the following: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempering_(metallurgy) en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardening_(metallurgy) en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quenching
@@awashburn6944 oh, and I just realized I kinda didn't actually answer your direct question: the reason one "shouldn't" quench is because that quenching creates stresses, and the a significant portion of the point of tempering is to reduce stress.
Aaron Washburn: interesting stuff; thanks! On that last point, it could also come from folks conflating the behavior of glass??!? With less-than-perfect annealing, glass can (I'm told, anyway) spontaneously shatter even years later just from the thermal gradients of daily life. I suppose especially if left near a window. I don't expect steels would be likely to do this, though perhaps if they were especially brittle???!? -- certainly the not quenched long enough scenario creates a plausible avenue for it, though that would still be within a short time, rather than spontaneous cracking later... I guess? :)
🔥 cracking video...! Takes me 50yrs back in time, when our Metalwork teacher showed us this method. As a kid it was so inspirational. Bring back woodworking and metalworking to school curriculums.!!!!!
I learned it from my father in 1988. I did some firing pins, extractors and cylinder stops for my guns in the 90's. I had an idea int those days: what about to temper diping the steel on tin as soon as it becomes liquid? Just to keep the steel under tempering temperature for a longer time. I am an accountant now and I don't do these things anymore, just curious. I have a manual where it's written something like (to temper reamers and drills bits) "boil in water for 90 minutes".
I wanted to temper a Shovel, so I got it red hot and dunked it into the toilet. The toilet then shattered and we had a small flood. Thanks ElectronicsNmore!
Hi Great video That is exactly has I was taught at Mather & Platt , Manchester ,England ,in my apprenticeship . The chisel I made was the only one that didn't break when the instructor tested them They also taught me to case harden low carbon steel by heating to cherry red then sprinkling case hardening compound on the area to be hardened then quench. Other carbon source's options are bone, horse hoof clippings and even human nail clippings , any source of carbon . No tempering is needed because the steel is soft where no carbon has been diposited
I've used that case hardening compound in the past. :-) Glad you enjoyed the video. Be sure to check out my extensive video playlists, rate thumbs up, share my channel with others, and subscribe. Thank You!
I'm not trying to be a know it all, or anything, just a suggestion. The most heat from fire, torches, oxi-acetylene, map-gas etc. Is at the tip of any open flame, so a half in above the tip will heat up any object so much quicker, and will save you a lot of fuel, and hard earned money over a life time. Try it you'll never go back to jamming it into the blue part of the flame again. Time is money especially in business. Thanks for sharing, done nice and simple. The old kiss method. Again Thanks for the knowledge and sharing it. Andy T Barrie Ontario, 🇨🇦
I enjoyed every second of the video. Your explanation was wel detailed and very clear. I can now repair my 48 year old Craftsman tools to which I am very attached! Thank you for that!
Great video! Thank you. This advice aided me in making a little tool I needed and saved me about $45 VS buying one. The tool I made withstood the job no problem.
Glad it helped Chris! Be sure to rate thumbs up, consider subscribing if you like a wide range of helpful and informative videos, and look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. Taking one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites would be greatly appreciated. Thanks ua-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
I've spent the last three hours trying to find a video teaching how to heat treat knives, but everything has been gibberish until now, this video was awesome so thankyou
Ethan Elzinga don’t heat treat your knives this way unless you are ABSOLUTELY SURE that it’s a water quenching steel. If it’s not you will introduce micro fractures to the steel and will destroy them.
Sir Dewd each steel you buy, or find for that matter has a specific way to heat treat it. Some are oil quench, some water, and some air. There’s a lot of information out there if you look for it. There’s even an app for it called Heat treat that gives all the information on just about every steel you could ever think of.
How did he find that out? I don’t know how he knows it, but if people stop being lazy, they could, you know, look it up! Find a publication, or Wikipedia, or a channel on you Tube from a company that does this, or a web site from one. Or someone who is really an expert, such as the Essential Craftsman. There are a lot of guys on You Tube who are over their heads in a number of things. They may know some things, but not others. Just look up heat treating steel.
The tempering requires a SLOW cooling! You NEVER quench in oil, water, or anything else during the TEMPERING process. for the hardening process, which is before tempering, YES, cool O1 tool steel quickly in OIL! the "O" of O1 tells you that the steel is to be OIL quenched.
Nice clear and easy to follow explanation. I have watched several videos where the various colors are explained but this video is the only on that makes sense. Thank you for sharing.
If I wanted to make stainless steel screws blue/purple for the ~aesthetic~ could I just use a heat gun at a steady 550°F until they turn that color then quench them? Would tempering them like this affect their structural integrity? Any advice or tips would be appreciated!
quenching liquid is determined by the manufacturer , some metals quenched in water ans some others oil and others require cool blowing air ,, tempering is 700c times the volume of the tool ,, heat treatment is 3 years training for diploma and reliability of workers ...for instance , 4terpilar 200t truck after welding chassis he spent 24hours in 756c to harden welding giving the truck the ability to haul 200 tones....if bits are made by chromvanadium or chrommoly it's already chemically treated and hardened...thank you for your tutorial...i did your method years ago on cheap Chinese bit , it didn't work , the bit broke after 5sec under screwdriver ... thanks again... more success
A quick question... isn't it best practice to anneal the material before it is hardened again to make sure that martensite forms in sufficient quantities? I'm self-teaching myself on this topic and have read about the idea stated above. Any insight would be greatly appreciate!! Very informative and to the point on your video though. Thanks!
Hi Phil! I like to shape the tool first(like an old screwdriver tip), then harden, then sharpen AFTER tempering(especially for a knife blade). Thanks for watching! Please check out my video playlists and most importantly share my channel with others.
Thanks for the video! Really useful to know these things! It would be nice if you added a list of the colours, the corresponding temperatures and the applications for tempering! Then the lazy folk could take a screenshot and save it for quick reference! Thanks again!
Glad you thought so! Please share the video link with others, and look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. Thank you ua-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
Great fast to the point video! Awesome job!! Only thing I see an issue with is not letting the temper process cool down slowly instead of dunking it in the water. But other than that Great video man! Keep it up!!
I've done further searching, air cooling and quenching are both correct, depending on desired outcome. Used engine oil got an honourable mention for its carbon content.
I was taught at school to allow steel to air cool after tempering. Is quenching after bringing to tempering temperature a normal process? Doesn't that reintroduce stresses back into the steel?
The temperature isn't high enough to make new Martensite when quenching. Only above a higher temperature the grain would change the cristalline structure to contain the carbon in a different way, which is then creating Martensite (This is the inital hardening process), but this doesn't happen at tempering temperatrue. Essentially, you are only changing some of the Martensite back to the less hard, normal grain structure of the given carbon content steel. There are always more or less residual stresses in steel, even when cooled slowly. The brittle fracture observed in a hardened, untempered steel with high Martensite is a different problem from residual stress, which do not necessarily have to be a problem for the application.
@@steveforth4469 Well, learning myself (It never ends in this metallurgy so happy to correct me when I'm wrong). Reading questions on a topic is the best test of own understanding. I couldn't immediately answer your question and had to think about it for a minute so thanks for the brain starter :)
Each steel have it's own way of being treated. Yes, heating it to a point, rapid cooling it and then tempering ... BUT here is where it becomes useless and dangerous. First, warer is rarelly proper for most tool steels, is rather a rare proper coolant. Most need oil and there are few reasons for that, speed of cooling being one of them( water can be faster but also water evaporate, a film of steam will be created between water and hot steel and heat transfer will be poor...so water can be also too slow...). Anyway, for most tool steels cooling liquid need to be rather warm,sometimes 60 degrees... Celsius...not ice cold. Some steels may become improper just by heating them, not to mention bad cooling and tempering. The essential point is, by wrongly treating a piece steel that tool CAN become VERY DANGEROUS. A piece of steel can broke while using the tool and beyond any form of accident, that piece will become shrapnel. A stray,sharp edged piece of steel CAN be deadly, one may loose an eye and so on... There is no tool( cheap as it needs such a dramatic reconditioning) worth such a risk...throw the damn screwdriver and pay another 5$ for a new piece of junk. IF anyone wants to experiment heat treating various pieces of steel, which is fine and rewarding way of spending time for some, please be careful, use protection gear and after treatment you ABUSE that tool in various tests to ensure it will not brake in flying pieces in the future when you or worst, another user, will not be aware and prepared for anything wrong possibly happening. Modern tools are made from complex steels which are far more complicate to heat treat at home in order to make a good and safe tool out of them. 50-70 years ago ..yeah,simple steels could be treated like this with less risks, not today.
Hey if you don't like what you seen don't watch it simple as that don't sit there and talk shit on what this man is showing us offering a free service to broke people like me I actually did this to many of my tools and it works GREAT better then it was factory I "re" did several of my tools this is a lifesaver thank you for taking the time to put together this awesome video sir may you have a great evening don't let people like this get to ya cheers mate
Buddy Thomas he’s not hating he’s trying to keep people safe go watch outdoor55’s video he explains heat treating in greater detail and you should do extensive research before you try to heat treat anything
Very correct on the fact that each steel, depending on alloy (if any) and carbon percentage has its own "best" heat treatment. But this video is about basic DIY treatment, that will work fine for 90% of the cases (but the video should have mentioned that one cannot harden non-carbon steel!). As a general rule, cooling with water gives a higher SURFACE hardness (what is most-times required with DIY tools), than cooling with oil . Oil is also making an insulating gas film! As a general rule: dip your tool with high speed and shake it well in the coolant to reduce the steam or gas film layer. You safety remarks are an overkill: One can make tools too brittle by wrong hardening, but the risk for any accident caused by that in a DIY world are very very very little! Professionals who harden planer blades know very well they can create dangerous shrapnel.
I am planning to make a couple of shovel for metal detecting at my job. I will design them with Delta cad, then plasma cut them. Do you have any videos on how to heat treat & temper shovel blades. I need them to last. Thanks.
Very good I learned much on my quest. "Reminds me of Conan " Ahh the rule of steel, THAT you can trust and nothing else" LOL. seriously, Thank you much!
Thanks for watching Pat! Be sure to rate thumbs up, consider subscribing if you like a wide range of helpful and informative videos, and look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. Taking one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites would be greatly appreciated. ua-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
Hi. I lost various steel and cast iron hand tools in the 2018 Paradise "Camp Fire". I saved some that were totally burned and then rusted in the ensuing rains. The little handles on my vises, which tighten the bases, are really bendable. Can these be rehardened via your process? Also some of the machine screws on my vise jaws are soft now. And the main jaw threading screw needs to be softened to straighten it and then rehardened - can this be done? Thank you for your help
Hi, I heard those were caused by emp, so the metal actually heated up and caused the fires. At first I thought that sounded crazy, but I saw many bizarre things like nails underwater that had charred the wood they were driven into on a dock, bridges with holes melted through them miles from anything else burning, and rows of bombed out cars on the beach, also miles from any external fire source. Did you see any evidence of this kind of foul play in your area?
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try cold tap water quench with .08%carbon steel then drop iton theconcrete.trythe same with a piece of leaf spring.if the .08 carbon steel doesn't crack in thecold water itll surely break when it hits the floor.carbon content determines all buddy
.08% carbon isn't hardenable, that starts around .2% and most springs are around .6% carbon O1 the steel mentioned in this video is around .9% carbon. I check my knives for stress cracks by dropping them tip first onto concrete after hardening and they are normally made of 1095 which is roughly .9% carbon you can significantly change the property's of a steel without changing its chemical composition.
You're welcome Keith! Be sure to look over my video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thanks for watching ua-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
Hi, I'm making locksmith tension bars outta thin pieces of steel and after I heated them up to curve them into a more fitting shape I hardened them post orange glow and was surpriced to find out that they got soft as heck. Is that because the were too hot and because I didn't temper the pieces of steel?
Might be a silly question, but if I re-temper the wire cutters of my leatherman, it could cut harder wire that by now doesn’t cut? (lets say fishing hooks)
Nice work. I'd like to do something like this, I'm a first timer though. I'm making a set of pin punches and center punches but all I have is a mapp torch. Would that work fine or is it too hot?
Wouldent it be great if you also had a minimum of clue how to properly heat treat steel before you start trying to teach your misconceptions to others. You can start with looking op the meaning of O in O1 tool steel. Then learn how to properly temper steal. Hint: you can't quench steel when tempering. Rather you let it cool slowly at room temperature.
@@awashburn6944 Because in steel quenching is locking in the chrystals that is hardening the steel, making it more brittle. In copper or silver you can quench it when tempering. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempering_%28metallurgy%29
@@awashburn6944 You are not forming martensite when you temper, but tempering is actualy removing it. Heating to tempering temperatures does nothing, but slowling cooling at room temperature, will remove some. If you quench you have done nothing, and the steel will remain britle.
nicely done. I wonder if an infrared thermometer could be used to be more precise with the temperature ranges. I know it's not needed, but being a novice, it would assist. My aldi one won't go that hot for readings as it tops out at 380 celsius, wait a minute, you're talking Farenheit, so yes the Aldi one will work !
Glad you liked the video! Be sure to check out my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and share my channel with others. Thank you ua-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
Have you tried doing hollow ground edges (like gunsmith screwdrivers) for flat head drivers? They seat deeper and do less damage to the screw face in my experience, I've never heat treated them as since I started doing that all my tools have that non conductive sheathing on the shaft, might try to roll it back though and give this a whirl, I use them too often as a chisel for lock nuts.
Cool- then maybe I have a nice little tip for you for once :) You basically want to grind down the profile of the angled edges into concave faces, just about the only trade that uses them are gun smiths since they are so protective of the screws.
Thanks for watching Max! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others. ua-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
@@SOLDOZER The Brown Bear society has evolved in a way which cannot be comprehended simply due to the fact that they are using 8G LTE broadband to connect/interact with eachother via the popular social media app Viber in order to transfer data at extremely fast speeds
Don't heat new router bits. Try sharpening them without creating too much heat. Keep dipping them in cool water as you sharpen them so the bits don't lose their temper. When you're done, apply a thin film of motor oil to the bit's surfaces before storing.
You do not quench again after tempering.... Harden then temper to heart and allow to cool a preferred method is to allow slow cooling by placing in hot sand..... To quench again you have rehardened making brittle
Good instruction however the last step where you draw back your steel. Your color is good ,but let it cool slowly no water just stick in some heated sand and let it cool slowly. Better results regards Ken
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Correct! I have a lot of excellent videos on my channel that cover many different subjects, so be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for other videos of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and most importantly share my channel with others.Thanks for watching
Nikola Zivkovic could still get a low carbon steel to have more carbon. Heat it up as he says in the video (no magnetism) quench in the blackest used engine oil you can get ahold of. Repeat this process 3 times only to assure you have fully placed carbon in the steel. I did this method the other day on a pair of pliers I got. I also bought a second pair that I didn’t treat for control. As we should know carbon steel is fairly easy to make sparks with (say with a survival knife or when grinding) I placed each pair on a motorized wire wheel and the control made little to no spark, the one I treated was like a firework.
@@positivenegative6525 if you actually look at the carbon diffusion rate in steel, you will find that this isn't going to measurably increase the carbon content any increase in hardness from this process is probably from the carbon already in the steel(when at a critical temperature in a carbon rich environment it can take over 10 hours for 1/16 of an inch of penetration)
I guess my question has been answered. I bought some harbor freight (cheap) Allen socket wrenches and snapped the first one I used off. I intended to harden and heat treat the remainder sockets but it sounds like that wont happen as I assume them to be low carbon.
@@rtp3962 depends on how it snapped, if it looks like it deformed significantly before breaking it is probably not hardenable, if it seems to have broke with little plastic deformation simmilar to glass it is probably hardenable.
this is great, but why are you tempering it to blue and then cooling off immediately, shouldn't tempering require the part being tempered is cooled nauturally with air?
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Thanks for clarifying questions I had about this process with this in-depth video. I see you don't mention anything about annealing the metal after tempering. Is it not important?
What I showed was a "Basic" process. Thanks for watching! Be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for other great videos of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and share.
PLEASE READ!
There are various techniques used to heat treat steel. The method outlined in this video is a "Basic" method which has always worked fine for me. You don't have to use "cold" water, "cool" water is just fine. Many people prefer motor oil instead of water because it reduces inner soft spots as well as the chance of cracking the steel. Many also prefer to allow the steel to be slowly air cool after the tempering process, instead of quenching in cool water.
Thanks for watching
electronicsNmore The medium used to cool or quench shouldn’t merely be a preference. What is used is dictated by the type of tool steel you are treating. W1 would be quenched in water as you illustrate. And who knows what a screwdriver is made of on any given brand right? O1 which is what I typically make punches from, would be quenched in oil. I use hydraulic fluid as it doesn’t stink as bad or scale as much. Not trying to be critical, just offering a little info. Excellent video by the way.
Tim is correct. There are water hardening, oil hardening and air hardening steels. Using the wrong method results in not only sub-optimal treating, but possibly a damaged crystal structure, which could result in cracks. If you use oil hardening steel, you shouldn’t use motor oil, because the additives can cause various problems. Use quenching oil, which also has the proper qualities.
You don’t have to (usually shouldn’t) quench after tempering, but the temperature should be brought down slowly.
@@awashburn6944: my (lay) understanding (so take this with a grain of salt) is basically that the ideal is to heat slowly and to a (relative to the next option) lower temperature, and cool slowly (no quenching). But because it may be difficult to do a carefully-controlled heat (especially with comparatively primitive methods), another option is to "over"-heat the metal (for the given amount of tempering desired), but cool it quickly, to avoid other side effects of being at that heat. For tools without the (as shown here) plastic (or wooden) handles, that are comprised only of the steel, a modern option is often to heat in a (toaster or regular) oven, which can (sometimes) give relatively controlled heating, and thus not require quenching. Other methods of slowing the heating (e.g. heating in a bed of brass shavings, by heating the container the shavings are in, rather than heating the tool directly) would presumably also not require quenching. Check out the Clickspring channel for some beautiful examples of that (warning: he takes all this to a whole other level; be prepared for some awe), including using a very careful process to get beautiful aesthetic tempering. For practical use, of course, this isn't required... and another common method is to over-heat one part of the tool to let heat slowly seep into the actual tooling surface(s), thus giving greater control where it's needed, even while using relatively crude heat sources (edit: as shown in this video, as well; see 9:17 and 10:17). A nice example of that (from Clickspring) is here: ua-cam.com/video/FFWSaffwZOo/v-deo.html ... and here's the aesthetic version: ua-cam.com/video/NhjiIPohUyw/v-deo.html
You might also find this video about case hardening to be of interest: ua-cam.com/video/V_Mp1fNzIT8/v-deo.html
And/or find useful information in some or all of the following:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempering_(metallurgy)
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardening_(metallurgy)
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quenching
@@awashburn6944 oh, and I just realized I kinda didn't actually answer your direct question: the reason one "shouldn't" quench is because that quenching creates stresses, and the a significant portion of the point of tempering is to reduce stress.
Aaron Washburn: interesting stuff; thanks!
On that last point, it could also come from folks conflating the behavior of glass??!? With less-than-perfect annealing, glass can (I'm told, anyway) spontaneously shatter even years later just from the thermal gradients of daily life. I suppose especially if left near a window. I don't expect steels would be likely to do this, though perhaps if they were especially brittle???!? -- certainly the not quenched long enough scenario creates a plausible avenue for it, though that would still be within a short time, rather than spontaneous cracking later... I guess? :)
🔥 cracking video...! Takes me 50yrs back in time, when our Metalwork teacher showed us this method. As a kid it was so inspirational. Bring back woodworking and metalworking to school curriculums.!!!!!
Hi woo. Is it necessary start out using that specific type of steel?
Too dangerous 😮
I learned it from my father in 1988. I did some firing pins, extractors and cylinder stops for my guns in the 90's. I had an idea int those days: what about to temper diping the steel on tin as soon as it becomes liquid? Just to keep the steel under tempering temperature for a longer time.
I am an accountant now and I don't do these things anymore, just curious.
I have a manual where it's written something like (to temper reamers and drills bits) "boil in water for 90 minutes".
I wanted to temper a Shovel, so I got it red hot and dunked it into the toilet. The toilet then shattered and we had a small flood. Thanks ElectronicsNmore!
Dumbass....
I like the way this guy talks. Very professional and clear to me. If you don't like it kick rocks.
Thank you! Nice to see that there are viewers out there that stick up for me. The guy is a troll and a moron.
I think he's teacher.
I had to listen a bunch of annoying weenies to get to this video, finally a a dude without a vag getting to the point. It’s appreciated brother!
Congratulations on the marriage 💑
@@pemulungrosok2832 damn!... I've never met teacher! ....Who's teacher by the way?
What a great demonstration. I finally understand this process. Thank you so much
Hi Great video
That is exactly has I was taught at Mather & Platt , Manchester ,England ,in my apprenticeship . The chisel I made was the only one that didn't break when the instructor tested them They also taught me to case harden low carbon steel by heating to cherry red then sprinkling case hardening compound on the area to be hardened then quench. Other carbon source's options are bone, horse hoof clippings and even human nail clippings , any source of carbon . No tempering is needed because the steel is soft where no carbon has been diposited
I've used that case hardening compound in the past. :-) Glad you enjoyed the video. Be sure to check out my extensive video playlists, rate thumbs up, share my channel with others, and subscribe. Thank You!
I'm not trying to be a know it all, or anything, just a suggestion. The most heat from fire, torches, oxi-acetylene, map-gas etc. Is at the tip of any open flame, so a half in above the tip will heat up any object so much quicker, and will save you a lot of fuel, and hard earned money over a life time. Try it you'll never go back to jamming it into the blue part of the flame again. Time is money especially in business. Thanks for sharing, done nice and simple. The old kiss method. Again Thanks for the knowledge and sharing it. Andy T Barrie Ontario, 🇨🇦
Very nice tutorial. Something I have always wanted to try. Now I feel confident I can do it. Thank You.
Thank you indeed .I learned soft soldring stainless steel from one of your videos .what an interesting time we live in .thanks again.🙏
Impressively good explanation - as unadorned and crystal clear as anyone could wish for, thank you 🙂
I enjoyed every second of the video. Your explanation was wel detailed and very clear. I can now repair my 48 year old Craftsman tools to which I am very attached! Thank you for that!
Great video! Thank you. This advice aided me in making a little tool I needed and saved me about $45 VS buying one. The tool I made withstood the job no problem.
Glad it helped Chris! Be sure to rate thumbs up, consider subscribing if you like a wide range of helpful and informative videos, and look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. Taking one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
ua-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
thanks a million! i had to do my D&T homework and you saved me! plus i like the way you talk, its quite concise and satisfying
Wow! You've responded to so many comments!
Much appreciated!
Great videos!
Glad you enjoy them Bryan!
I never quenched a blade at tempering just let it air cool. Is quenching better? Does it differ from air cooling?
Yes, it is different.
I've spent the last three hours trying to find a video teaching how to heat treat knives, but everything has been gibberish until now, this video was awesome so thankyou
Ethan Elzinga don’t heat treat your knives this way unless you are ABSOLUTELY SURE that it’s a water quenching steel. If it’s not you will introduce micro fractures to the steel and will destroy them.
Giggidygiggidy interesting... and how do you find that out?
Sir Dewd each steel you buy, or find for that matter has a specific way to heat treat it. Some are oil quench, some water, and some air. There’s a lot of information out there if you look for it. There’s even an app for it called Heat treat that gives all the information on just about every steel you could ever think of.
How did he find that out? I don’t know how he knows it, but if people stop being lazy, they could, you know, look it up! Find a publication, or Wikipedia, or a channel on you Tube from a company that does this, or a web site from one. Or someone who is really an expert, such as the Essential Craftsman.
There are a lot of guys on You Tube who are over their heads in a number of things. They may know some things, but not others. Just look up heat treating steel.
thanks for the tip, im trying to make bits for my dremel and the tips i made are like made out of dough
Owe dam ive been doing wrong for 20 years, iv been heat the ends up straight away
Time to change my method, such a great bit of knowledge cheers
Great Job! Nice SIMPLE video on Harding.
Glad you liked it Pete!
The tempering requires a SLOW cooling! You NEVER quench in oil, water, or anything else during the TEMPERING process. for the hardening process, which is before tempering, YES, cool O1 tool steel quickly in OIL! the "O" of O1 tells you that the steel is to be OIL quenched.
Great video .
Sir , thank you so much for sharing your knowledge .
I am from Sri Lanka .
Nice clear and easy to follow explanation. I have watched several videos where the various colors are explained but this video is the only on that makes sense. Thank you for sharing.
emadigan523 makes sense, but has a number of major errors.
@@melgross Like what?
Awesome video but I’m having trouble can you use this technique on partially painted blades? And with map gas torch
Looks so easy, but I think it needs some practice. Very good to follow the overall process and you pointing out the important facts.
Yes, practice makes perfect. Thanks for watching! Please check out my other videos and share.
If I wanted to make stainless steel screws blue/purple for the ~aesthetic~ could I just use a heat gun at a steady 550°F until they turn that color then quench them? Would tempering them like this affect their structural integrity? Any advice or tips would be appreciated!
quenching liquid is determined by the manufacturer , some metals quenched in water ans some others oil and others require cool blowing air ,, tempering is 700c times the volume of the tool ,, heat treatment is 3 years training for diploma and reliability of workers ...for instance , 4terpilar 200t truck after welding chassis he spent 24hours in 756c to harden welding giving the truck the ability to haul 200 tones....if bits are made by chromvanadium or chrommoly it's already chemically treated and hardened...thank you for your tutorial...i did your method years ago on cheap Chinese bit , it didn't work , the bit broke after 5sec under screwdriver ... thanks again... more success
The bits treated should ONLY be "High Speed Steel" type. Thanks for watching!
@@electronicsNmore my pleasure ,, n thank you too
A quick question... isn't it best practice to anneal the material before it is hardened again to make sure that martensite forms in sufficient quantities? I'm self-teaching myself on this topic and have read about the idea stated above. Any insight would be greatly appreciate!! Very informative and to the point on your video though. Thanks!
Please read my pinned comment. :-) Thanks for watching!
He's far too important to answer your question. Sorry for your inconvenience! But the bitch is still busy. B.i.s.b.
So you sharpen, then temper? Does the heating process not dull the edge?
Hi Phil! I like to shape the tool first(like an old screwdriver tip), then harden, then sharpen AFTER tempering(especially for a knife blade). Thanks for watching! Please check out my video playlists and most importantly share my channel with others.
You're awesomely informative and I appreciate that more than you know! Subscribed, my new UA-cam teacher
Great to hear Cody! Be sure to look over my 650+ videos for many other videos of interest to you. Thanks
Cleaver video. Thank you so much, - you explained that so clearly.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Simple IS better! Great video 👍
Yes! Thank you!
Excellent explanation.
When tempering you should hold it at that color for 120-180 seconds, and you shouldn't dunk in water the second time, ideally. Otherwise spot on!
otherwise it become soft?
4:20 Hardening
Hi dear. Very good video and useful. I did it and see how much is it work ❤
Will this work on a cheap garden spade edge?
Thanks for the video!
Really useful to know these things!
It would be nice if you added a list of the colours, the corresponding temperatures and the applications for tempering!
Then the lazy folk could take a screenshot and save it for quick reference!
Thanks again!
Hi, do you file test these tools to check the hardness afterwards or is the colour scale always correct?
Thanks
Thanks for explaining and making this video.
You're welcome! Glad you liked the video! Be sure to check out my wide range of videos and share. Thank you
thanks for that, really needed it and you've explained it perfectly
Can you use used motor oil
Can you temper if previously hardened such as that big screwdriver there?
Very professional and clear. Keep that way.
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What a great video!
Great fast to the point video! Awesome job!! Only thing I see an issue with is not letting the temper process cool down slowly instead of dunking it in the water. But other than that Great video man! Keep it up!!
Yes, some recommend placing the item inside a small toaster oven to cool very slowly. Thanks for watching!
I've done further searching, air cooling and quenching are both correct, depending on desired outcome. Used engine oil got an honourable mention for its carbon content.
Can we teharden a bar of steel which has been hardened before
I was taught at school to allow steel to air cool after tempering. Is quenching after bringing to tempering temperature a normal process? Doesn't that reintroduce stresses back into the steel?
The temperature isn't high enough to make new Martensite when quenching. Only above a higher temperature the grain would change the cristalline structure to contain the carbon in a different way, which is then creating Martensite (This is the inital hardening process), but this doesn't happen at tempering temperatrue. Essentially, you are only changing some of the Martensite back to the less hard, normal grain structure of the given carbon content steel.
There are always more or less residual stresses in steel, even when cooled slowly. The brittle fracture observed in a hardened, untempered steel with high Martensite is a different problem from residual stress, which do not necessarily have to be a problem for the application.
@@computername Thank you for the response
@@steveforth4469 Well, learning myself (It never ends in this metallurgy so happy to correct me when I'm wrong). Reading questions on a topic is the best test of own understanding. I couldn't immediately answer your question and had to think about it for a minute so thanks for the brain starter :)
Each steel have it's own way of being treated.
Yes, heating it to a point, rapid cooling it and then tempering ...
BUT here is where it becomes useless and dangerous.
First, warer is rarelly proper for most tool steels, is rather a rare proper coolant. Most need oil and there are few reasons for that, speed of cooling being one of them( water can be faster but also water evaporate, a film of steam will be created between water and hot steel and heat transfer will be poor...so water can be also too slow...).
Anyway, for most tool steels cooling liquid need to be rather warm,sometimes 60 degrees... Celsius...not ice cold.
Some steels may become improper just by heating them, not to mention bad cooling and tempering.
The essential point is, by wrongly treating a piece steel that tool CAN become VERY DANGEROUS. A piece of steel can broke while using the tool and beyond any form of accident, that piece will become shrapnel.
A stray,sharp edged piece of steel CAN be deadly, one may loose an eye and so on...
There is no tool( cheap as it needs such a dramatic reconditioning) worth such a risk...throw the damn screwdriver and pay another 5$ for a new piece of junk.
IF anyone wants to experiment heat treating various pieces of steel, which is fine and rewarding way of spending time for some, please be careful, use protection gear and after treatment you ABUSE that tool in various tests to ensure it will not brake in flying pieces in the future when you or worst, another user, will not be aware and prepared for anything wrong possibly happening.
Modern tools are made from complex steels which are far more complicate to heat treat at home in order to make a good and safe tool out of them.
50-70 years ago ..yeah,simple steels could be treated like this with less risks, not today.
The method still works fine. You're forgetting that this is a "Basic" method.
@@electronicsNmore Ok. I have no intention convincing you, it just needed to be said. There is no thing as "basic" when working with unknown steels.
Hey if you don't like what you seen don't watch it simple as that don't sit there and talk shit on what this man is showing us offering a free service to broke people like me I actually did this to many of my tools and it works GREAT better then it was factory I "re" did several of my tools this is a lifesaver thank you for taking the time to put together this awesome video sir may you have a great evening don't let people like this get to ya cheers mate
Buddy Thomas he’s not hating he’s trying to keep people safe go watch outdoor55’s video he explains heat treating in greater detail and you should do extensive research before you try to heat treat anything
Very correct on the fact that each steel, depending on alloy (if any) and carbon percentage has its own "best" heat treatment. But this video is about basic DIY treatment, that will work fine for 90% of the cases (but the video should have mentioned that one cannot harden non-carbon steel!).
As a general rule, cooling with water gives a higher SURFACE hardness (what is most-times required with DIY tools), than cooling with oil . Oil is also making an insulating gas film! As a general rule: dip your tool with high speed and shake it well in the coolant to reduce the steam or gas film layer.
You safety remarks are an overkill: One can make tools too brittle by wrong hardening, but the risk for any accident caused by that in a DIY world are very very very little! Professionals who harden planer blades know very well they can create dangerous shrapnel.
I am planning to make a couple of shovel for metal detecting at my job. I will design them with Delta cad, then plasma cut them. Do you have any videos on how to heat treat & temper shovel blades. I need them to last. Thanks.
Unfortunately I don't have any videos for that. Thanks for watching!
Thanks. Im gona try doing this to cheap throwing knives
Very good I learned much on my quest. "Reminds me of Conan " Ahh the rule of steel, THAT you can trust and nothing else" LOL. seriously, Thank you much!
Thanks for watching Pat! Be sure to rate thumbs up, consider subscribing if you like a wide range of helpful and informative videos, and look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. Taking one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites would be greatly appreciated.
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Hi. I lost various steel and cast iron hand tools in the 2018 Paradise "Camp Fire". I saved some that were totally burned and then rusted in the ensuing rains. The little handles on my vises, which tighten the bases, are really bendable. Can these be rehardened via your process? Also some of the machine screws on my vise jaws are soft now. And the main jaw threading screw needs to be softened to straighten it and then rehardened - can this be done? Thank you for your help
Hi, I heard those were caused by emp, so the metal actually heated up and caused the fires. At first I thought that sounded crazy, but I saw many bizarre things like nails underwater that had charred the wood they were driven into on a dock, bridges with holes melted through them miles from anything else burning, and rows of bombed out cars on the beach, also miles from any external fire source. Did you see any evidence of this kind of foul play in your area?
Awesome, thanks you have a new sub here now 😁
Question, is the final sanding/cleaning up purely for aesthetics?
Great to hear! Yes, just for looks.
Great video just what i was looking for thank you
Glad to hear it!
VERY good video,very detailed and explained.
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Helpful video. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you liked it Sean! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, use supplied Amazon links to support my channel when making purchases(No additional cost to you), and most importantly take one minute to share links to my videos with others on social networking sites. Thank you!
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congrats for your new subscribers. 👍
I'm Inn
hello just a quick question - can I use a butane torch instead of a propane torch or will it not be hot enough? thank you
For small metal objects, butane should work fine.
try cold tap water quench with .08%carbon steel then drop iton theconcrete.trythe same with a piece of leaf spring.if the .08 carbon steel doesn't crack in thecold water itll surely break when it hits the floor.carbon content determines all buddy
.08% carbon isn't hardenable, that starts around .2% and most springs are around .6% carbon O1 the steel mentioned in this video is around .9% carbon. I check my knives for stress cracks by dropping them tip first onto concrete after hardening and they are normally made of 1095 which is roughly .9% carbon you can significantly change the property's of a steel without changing its chemical composition.
nice it worked i heat treated my hex keys now they are indestructible
That was perfect! This video was a great investment, thank you for making such a unique and informative instructional/ educational video
Love that blue color...
Aquamarine, other shades of blue, and canary yellow are my favorite colors.
Thanks for this. It always intimidated me before
You're welcome Keith! Be sure to look over my video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thanks for watching
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Very Nice............ Thanks for info
Which is the hardest color?
That was spot on, thank you !
As it be good to use radiation thermometer for temperature check?
Hi.. Is it cold water also when you temper it?
I used cold, but some people prefer room temperature to cool.
Very interesting and resourceful channel. Thanks
Thank you! I have many excellent videos on this channel. Be sure to check out my video playlists, rate thumbs up, and share.
I keep denting store bought cutters on fishing cable and wire i want to do this on the blades of my side cutter what colour would i quench that at?
Use higher quality tools with hardened cutters.
Hi, I'm making locksmith tension bars outta thin pieces of steel and after I heated them up to curve them into a more fitting shape I hardened them post orange glow and was surpriced to find out that they got soft as heck. Is that because the were too hot and because I didn't temper the pieces of steel?
What type of steel?
He gets so excited about the color changes
Might be a silly question, but if I re-temper the wire cutters of my leatherman, it could cut harder wire that by now doesn’t cut? (lets say fishing hooks)
I wouldn't re-temper. The alloy used can only be made so hard. Thanks for watching!
Nice work. I'd like to do something like this, I'm a first timer though. I'm making a set of pin punches and center punches but all I have is a mapp torch. Would that work fine or is it too hot?
Thank you. Well explained.
Can we do that with drill bits?
Tnx
I would just resharpen them.
Nice info on the tempering colours. I've a question though. Aren't you supposed to air cool it for tempering?
Actually, oven tempering is the best. :-) Thanks for watching!
Wouldent it be great if you also had a minimum of clue how to properly heat treat steel before you start trying to teach your misconceptions to others. You can start with looking op the meaning of O in O1 tool steel. Then learn how to properly temper steal. Hint: you can't quench steel when tempering. Rather you let it cool slowly at room temperature.
@@awashburn6944 Because in steel quenching is locking in the chrystals that is hardening the steel, making it more brittle. In copper or silver you can quench it when tempering. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempering_%28metallurgy%29
@@awashburn6944 You are not forming martensite when you temper, but tempering is actualy removing it. Heating to tempering temperatures does nothing, but slowling cooling at room temperature, will remove some. If you quench you have done nothing, and the steel will remain britle.
Thank you, as soon as i saw this guy quench after tempering i knew he didnt know much
Yeah i was also thinking the same if he dips in oil agin it would be be hardened again
Most steels require rapid cooling (quenching) to harden, what are you talking about? It seems you have the misconceptions
Hello, could I use this same process to harden screw heads to make them more durable?
You should look into "case hardening" compound.
nicely done. I wonder if an infrared thermometer could be used to be more precise with the temperature ranges. I know it's not needed, but being a novice, it would assist. My aldi one won't go that hot for readings as it tops out at 380 celsius, wait a minute, you're talking Farenheit, so yes the Aldi one will work !
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I need to heat treat a threaded rod. Do I thread it before or after treatment?
Thread first.
Have you tried doing hollow ground edges (like gunsmith screwdrivers) for flat head drivers? They seat deeper and do less damage to the screw face in my experience, I've never heat treated them as since I started doing that all my tools have that non conductive sheathing on the shaft, might try to roll it back though and give this a whirl, I use them too often as a chisel for lock nuts.
No I haven't. Thanks for watching!
Cool- then maybe I have a nice little tip for you for once :) You basically want to grind down the profile of the angled edges into concave faces, just about the only trade that uses them are gun smiths since they are so protective of the screws.
@@EgadsNo ni in
Good stuff, straight forward to the point and very informative.
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sorry if i have missed something in the video i havent watched it all but does this strengthen the metal
No, its just all for fun and laughs.
@@SOLDOZER The Brown Bear society has evolved in a way which cannot be comprehended simply due to the fact that they are using 8G LTE broadband to connect/interact with eachother via the popular social media app Viber in order to transfer data at extremely fast speeds
Will this work also on brand new router bits? So there's no need to re-sharpen them, right?
Don't heat new router bits. Try sharpening them without creating too much heat. Keep dipping them in cool water as you sharpen them so the bits don't lose their temper. When you're done, apply a thin film of motor oil to the bit's surfaces before storing.
@@electronicsNmore thank you
Well... it's the first info to me about the connection btwen magnet and tempering...
Thank you this was a very good tutorial!
You're welcome!
No it wasnt. He is so incorrect at this it makes my stomach hurt. Blind leading the blind here
@@danpinnell7502 Well what's wrong with it then? It worked on my couple of tools that I tested
@@danpinnell7502 Get a life buddy, and take some Tums for your stomach ailment.
You do not quench again after tempering.... Harden then temper to heart and allow to cool a preferred method is to allow slow cooling by placing in hot sand..... To quench again you have rehardened making brittle
A simple Google search for "tempering steel" will prove you wrong.
All what matters is, does it work as intended? And once it does, all criticism fades away. Thanks for the effort. I shall test it sometime
It's worked fine for me over the years. Thanks for watching!
Thks for a keep it simple video. Instead of the color of hot metal, ?can I just use an infrared laser thermometer?
Color is better, for me at least.
@@electronicsNmore Thks for the reply. ?Could you put this wiki heat treating link in your video description?
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_treating
Good instruction however the last step where you draw back your steel. Your color is good ,but let it cool slowly no water just stick in some heated sand and let it cool slowly. Better results regards Ken
first video of yours I have seen, earned my sub. awesome. thanks.
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Some tools, cheap tools, cant be tempered or hardenned. Because they are made from extremely low carbon steel. No carbon no hardenning.
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Nikola Zivkovic could still get a low carbon steel to have more carbon. Heat it up as he says in the video (no magnetism) quench in the blackest used engine oil you can get ahold of. Repeat this process 3 times only to assure you have fully placed carbon in the steel. I did this method the other day on a pair of pliers I got. I also bought a second pair that I didn’t treat for control. As we should know carbon steel is fairly easy to make sparks with (say with a survival knife or when grinding) I placed each pair on a motorized wire wheel and the control made little to no spark, the one I treated was like a firework.
@@positivenegative6525 if you actually look at the carbon diffusion rate in steel, you will find that this isn't going to measurably increase the carbon content any increase in hardness from this process is probably from the carbon already in the steel(when at a critical temperature in a carbon rich environment it can take over 10 hours for 1/16 of an inch of penetration)
I guess my question has been answered. I bought some harbor freight (cheap) Allen socket wrenches and snapped the first one I used off. I intended to harden and heat treat the remainder sockets but it sounds like that wont happen as I assume them to be low carbon.
@@rtp3962 depends on how it snapped, if it looks like it deformed significantly before breaking it is probably not hardenable, if it seems to have broke with little plastic deformation simmilar to glass it is probably hardenable.
Is the process same for knife?
Yes, refer to the chart.
because of this video, I'll ganna try to DIY it at home...
this is great, but why are you tempering it to blue and then cooling off immediately, shouldn't tempering require the part being tempered is cooled nauturally with air?
Just showing a method I was taught back in the 80's, there may be better methods. Thanks for watching!
Can I use transformer oil to harden the steel?.
Yes, an induction heater. I show one on my channel. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. You said this apply to tool steel. Can this method be used for a stainless steel kitchen knife?
No, the process is different. Thanks for watching!
@@electronicsNmore OK. Thanks for your reply.
Excellent demonstration, particularly the tempering. Thank you very much.
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Thanks for clarifying questions I had about this process with this in-depth video. I see you don't mention anything about annealing the metal after tempering. Is it not important?
What I showed was a "Basic" process. Thanks for watching! Be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for other great videos of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and share.