O, how many time has my wife come into the house with the strong pungent smell of Chevy Orange paint that’s baking in the kitchens oven on a set of 202 high flow, double hump heads for a Chevy 350!! Lol Great video Eli!!!💪🏼
Grain looks really good! Sandblasting and staging the paint like you said would probably help hold it on there. On some header paints you have to cure them with lower temperatures and let the rest before they are ready for prime time. Really great idea and a lot cheaper than most antiscale compounds.
Like the video. Very interesting. So I use a high temp paint on my forge. Even next to the opening it has never blistered or chipped. It's header part for motors. Ots called VHT flame proof. And it says ceramic coating. Pick it up at any auto parts store
I typically use Nuclayer 2000 as a anti scale, it’s a natural water based clay and is super easy to apply and can be dried in seconds with a heat gun. It’s also what I use in conjunction with a thicker clay for hamons.
I have some 2,000* anti-seize spray I use for punch lube. Been wanting to try it out for anti scale. Never thought of using paint for some reason. Although the best option for this would be stainless foil. But I’ve always been a fan of trying new things, which seems your the same way.
I've tried a couple of things over the years- ATP-641 and Condursal Z1100 anti-scale surface treatments and they do work ok at the lower temps (700-900C) if you follow the instructions. They still blast off in the oil filling it with particulates of whatever industrial goop they're made up of which I'm not a fan of. Mostly I was looking at them because I use a lot of stainless and was looking to save a bit on the foil sheet, so they don't tend to work at the very high temps (1000-1100C) and manage to burn off some carbon in randomly splotchy areas kind of like how we saw with the paint. (in either case- its a heck of a time trying to get that surface gunk off the knife later on) Might be worth trying to leave the paint dry overnight on a test piece and see how you do
The tip bending is always a better outcome then puncturing the bottom of the quench tank. But very interesting test, something I noticed is that those "soft" spots are mostly on the finish ground part and not as much on the tang. Maybe the paint didnt have enough bite due to a higher grit sanding?
Your wife didn’t give you a razor for Christmas??? 🤣 Love the beard mate, she’s a ripper!! Also like the video 👍. Hope you and your family had a great Christmas and the new year proves to be a better deal than last year. Regards from Down Under.
It is never a failure if you learn something. I would say this would be worth trying again. Maybe let the paint cure more and see if that makes a difference
Will be cool to see what comes of it all. I swear,when the video popped up I said to myself, " Wtf is Borat doing in a blacksmith/knife making channel! Lmao!
Forgot to mention, I’ve worn a beard myself for nearly 40 years, mainly to protect my fair skin from the harsh Aussie sun, but mate my growth sure looks insignificant compared to your valiant effort!!! Top job, I’m feeling a little jealous 😜
Idea: Could you use the paint for the hardening process in a similar fashion to satanite? Maybe a thicker application could create a differential hardening / hamon scenario.
Always try to learn from personal experience, someone else's mistakes are preferable to learn from. Slowing down and not trying to turn the oil into a whipped topping.
Thanks for watching! Agitation is important to defeat the vapor jacket, and introduce a continual supply of cooler oil to the surface of the steel... Although in thin cross sections like this it's probably less relevant.
Yep, I've been busy making knives.. youtube took a downturn this last fall for reasons I don't understand and can't control, so I've spent more time working on the part of my business that I do have control over, and that is making and selling product. Thanks for watching!
Why don’t you just get an Argon tank and regulator and run Argon into your Kiln? Many kiln manufacturers actually have options for that although they are not standard but the Argon actually displaces the oxygen and other atmospheric gases with the heavier but inert Argon gas working much the same way as it does for Tig Welding.
@@FireCreekForge I’m not so sure about what a kiln conversion kit from the manufacturer would cost but I had a friend who rigged up his own version for a few hundred dollars and that included buying a full 125 Argon tank and a regulator and the line to run into his kiln from a local welding gas supplier. Now the line he ran from the regulator to the kiln wasn’t a prefabricated kit, it was a handful of fittings and gas line. Each time he refills his Argon it’s like $45-$50 but that tank lasts quite a while because the argon doesn’t burn up like propane, you close the kiln and turn on the argon for a few minutes until it displaces the air inside and it’s good until you open the door again if you are doing something small like knives but if you are heat treating something big and thick like tooling where the kiln is running much longer then you might need to add argon some time midway through the heat treatment process
Depending on the steel and the thickness there’s no problem with it. I do it all the time. Not in just tap water but a brine heated to 150*. But definitely would never water quench 52100 lol.
@@erikcourtney1834 Right, but I was thinking that with 8 mils of paint on it, it would slow the cooling enough, or could anyway. The blade was already an experiment.
I reckon he’s invented some secret formula that he’s using to fertilise it and make it grow !!!😂🤣 The mans a genius, he’s just solved the problem of baldness!
O, how many time has my wife come into the house with the strong pungent smell of Chevy Orange paint that’s baking in the kitchens oven on a set of 202 high flow, double hump heads for a Chevy 350!! Lol
Great video Eli!!!💪🏼
Haha! Thanks for watching!
Grain looks really good! Sandblasting and staging the paint like you said would probably help hold it on there. On some header paints you have to cure them with lower temperatures and let the rest before they are ready for prime time. Really great idea and a lot cheaper than most antiscale compounds.
Good points! Thanks for watching!
Like the video. Very interesting. So I use a high temp paint on my forge. Even next to the opening it has never blistered or chipped. It's header part for motors. Ots called VHT flame proof. And it says ceramic coating. Pick it up at any auto parts store
cool, good to know
I typically use Nuclayer 2000 as a anti scale, it’s a natural water based clay and is super easy to apply and can be dried in seconds with a heat gun. It’s also what I use in conjunction with a thicker clay for hamons.
Cool, I've heard about using that but wondered about the atmosphere protection
I have some 2,000* anti-seize spray I use for punch lube. Been wanting to try it out for anti scale. Never thought of using paint for some reason. Although the best option for this would be stainless foil. But I’ve always been a fan of trying new things, which seems your the same way.
Nice! Yes I like to to try out different ideas. I wouldn't try to use the paint on stainless blades, but otherwise it seems adequate.
Thank you
I've tried a couple of things over the years- ATP-641 and Condursal Z1100 anti-scale surface treatments and they do work ok at the lower temps (700-900C) if you follow the instructions. They still blast off in the oil filling it with particulates of whatever industrial goop they're made up of which I'm not a fan of. Mostly I was looking at them because I use a lot of stainless and was looking to save a bit on the foil sheet, so they don't tend to work at the very high temps (1000-1100C) and manage to burn off some carbon in randomly splotchy areas kind of like how we saw with the paint.
(in either case- its a heck of a time trying to get that surface gunk off the knife later on)
Might be worth trying to leave the paint dry overnight on a test piece and see how you do
Nice, thanks for watching. Yeah, I use foil for stainless steel blades.
The tip bending is always a better outcome then puncturing the bottom of the quench tank.
But very interesting test, something I noticed is that those "soft" spots are mostly on the finish ground part and not as much on the tang.
Maybe the paint didnt have enough bite due to a higher grit sanding?
That is possible, thanks for watching!
Cool video
Your wife didn’t give you a razor for Christmas??? 🤣 Love the beard mate, she’s a ripper!! Also like the video 👍. Hope you and your family had a great Christmas and the new year proves to be a better deal than last year. Regards from Down Under.
Thanks! We had a good Christmas, looking forward to this year
I love experimenting I wonder if that spray would work on a hamon
Thank for watching! No, it wouldn't have near the insulation value needed to create a hamon
It is never a failure if you learn something. I would say this would be worth trying again. Maybe let the paint cure more and see if that makes a difference
Will be cool to see what comes of it all. I swear,when the video popped up I said to myself, " Wtf is Borat doing in a blacksmith/knife making channel! Lmao!
Thanks for watching. No, I don't think it has near the insulation value needed to create a hamon
Forgot to mention, I’ve worn a beard myself for nearly 40 years, mainly to protect my fair skin from the harsh Aussie sun, but mate my growth sure looks insignificant compared to your valiant effort!!! Top job, I’m feeling a little jealous 😜
Haha well thanks
Rust oleum white marking spray paint works for this I use it in the kiln every time
Interesting!
The titanium dioxide in it acts as a shield same as white out in a can
@@ohiovalleyforge5383 so just the white marking paint instead of the orange or red ?
Yep
I wonder how that high temp paint would work, on an air hardening steel, instead of the foil?
That might be iffy since the austenizing temps would be right at or just below 2000F
Maybe the paint would stick better to warmed steel?
I wonder if in situations like this if cryo hardening in liquid nitrogen would do. Works great for drill bits.
That beard is tremendous, hope you and the family are doing well!
Haha, thanks man. We're doing well, hope you guys are doing well up there!
interesting
Idea: Could you use the paint for the hardening process in a similar fashion to satanite? Maybe a thicker application could create a differential hardening / hamon scenario.
I don't think it has the insulative value for that..
@@FireCreekForge well that's a bummer :(
I live in South Houston and would like to own the 1st Fire Creek Forge hook-tip knife! (Even if you've re-grinded it)
A noble experiment, sir! I'm sure you'd have rather not had to conduct it.
Thanks!
Ammo quench tank. Badass
i mean for a 4 inch knife he still smashed curled the tip so how good is it really :P
Man your beard looks so manly that it almost looks fake! I'm jealous!
Haha
Try Cerakote glacier high temp Good to 1800f and won’t come off in the quench, tho it does take 5 days to fully cure. But could save a blade!
Always try to learn from personal experience, someone else's mistakes are preferable to learn from. Slowing down and not trying to turn the oil into a whipped topping.
Thanks for watching! Agitation is important to defeat the vapor jacket, and introduce a continual supply of cooler oil to the surface of the steel... Although in thin cross sections like this it's probably less relevant.
The second you put it in the oil I said to my self he just hit the bottom, this will get interesting.
Santa Claus would be proud of you 👍
With all the beard comments I'm half expecting a beard product company to ask to be a sponsor before long...
@@FireCreekForge 😂👍
Where have you been? No uploads in a while.
Yep, I've been busy making knives.. youtube took a downturn this last fall for reasons I don't understand and can't control, so I've spent more time working on the part of my business that I do have control over, and that is making and selling product. Thanks for watching!
@@FireCreekForge thank you for responding so fast. I think we as subscribers just miss the content
Why don’t you just get an Argon tank and regulator and run Argon into your Kiln? Many kiln manufacturers actually have options for that although they are not standard but the Argon actually displaces the oxygen and other atmospheric gases with the heavier but inert Argon gas working much the same way as it does for Tig Welding.
I wonder what that would cost.?
@@FireCreekForge I’m not so sure about what a kiln conversion kit from the manufacturer would cost but I had a friend who rigged up his own version for a few hundred dollars and that included buying a full 125 Argon tank and a regulator and the line to run into his kiln from a local welding gas supplier. Now the line he ran from the regulator to the kiln wasn’t a prefabricated kit, it was a handful of fittings and gas line. Each time he refills his Argon it’s like $45-$50 but that tank lasts quite a while because the argon doesn’t burn up like propane, you close the kiln and turn on the argon for a few minutes until it displaces the air inside and it’s good until you open the door again if you are doing something small like knives but if you are heat treating something big and thick like tooling where the kiln is running much longer then you might need to add argon some time midway through the heat treatment process
Wow ABSOLUTELY FANTASTIC content as always
I'd be half tempted to water quench with the paint on it
Depending on the steel and the thickness there’s no problem with it. I do it all the time. Not in just tap water but a brine heated to 150*. But definitely would never water quench 52100 lol.
@@erikcourtney1834 Right, but I was thinking that with 8 mils of paint on it, it would slow the cooling enough, or could anyway. The blade was already an experiment.
@@kiplambel4052 I’m not real sure if it would work like that. The quench speed is still the same. It be worth trying anyway.
Ha ha! Safety 3rd!!
The beard is so thick and lush that it looks fake. Color me jealous.
I reckon he’s invented some secret formula that he’s using to fertilise it and make it grow !!!😂🤣 The mans a genius, he’s just solved the problem of baldness!
Haha!
Damn the luck
Oh, just a safety warning, make sure you don’t get it caught in the power hammer, could be disastrous !!! (sorry ,I just couldn’t help myself , LoL )