How to Easily Heat Treat 1095 High Carbon Steel for Knife Making
Вставка
- Опубліковано 14 жов 2018
- How to Easily Heat Treat 1095 High Carbon Steel for Knife Making. This video is part of The Complete Online Guide to Knife Making. In this video we demonstrate how to heat treat a variety of 1095 high carbon steel knife blanks. Pre heating the quench oil, digital thermometers and a variety of little tricks of the trade are covered.
The Complete Online Guide to Knife Making
www.diyeasycrafts.com/knives.html
Berg Knifemaking www.etsy.com/shop/DIYeasycraf...
Devil Forge www.Devil-Forge.com
Please check us out on the web for knife blanks and a variety of How-to knife making videos.
www.diyeasycrafts.com/
DIY Knife Making www.diyeasycrafts.com/knives.html
Please join us on:
FACEBOOK group Knives and Knife Making and share images of your own knife making projects. / 324546941320593
PINTEREST / . . #DIYeasycrafts
I have watched numerous videos and read many descriptions of how to heat treat and yours is by far the best I’ve seen. Very clear and concise with good explanations of each step. Thanks and keep up the great work!
Hands down....the most helpful vid I found.Just starting to learn the process and you explained and showed what to do very well.Thanks
Awesome vid man..super informative. Many thanks!
I heat treated three 1095 steel knives this week. It was a learning process for sure. First knife I did tried propane torches. It didn’t work. Then I tried a charcoal chimney and charcoal. That works awesome. I also tried a campfire with a leaf blower to increase the heat. That also worked awesome.
I used a mix of motor oil and peanut oil for quenching. At first I thought the heat treating failed because they had carbon on the surface, and a file would bite into the carbon. But after I got the carbon cleaned off a file skates right across them.
The more you do it the easier it is. Trick is to get it to next shade of orange after non magnetic and hold it at that temp for a few minutes before quenching
Informative video and to the point. Knifemaking is something i will be trying real soon.Thanks for sharing..Cheers from Australia
Super helpful Thanks so much !
Thank you sir for your video.
Well explained.
I appreciate this vid!
Very informative thank you from down under
Nice video diy!
Great little vid packed full of ideas thanks
Glad you enjoyed!
Very informative. Thank you.
You are welcome!
Thanks for the video! I have that 2 burner Dragon forge. That thing works so well.
Do you mean devil forge
excellent
Great video-thanks.
Glad it helped
Great info!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the video! I just got a piece of 1095 hc from rmp for my Asian inspired chef knife and I had no idea how to properly treat and temper the blade , you are very thorough in your explanation and I’m looking forward to seeing if I can make this blade harder than a sack of ripe blueberries lol , what kind of oil should I use in my quench tank ?
Thank you.
You're welcome!
this very simple to do
heh for the small knives Ive made my quench tank is an old Frydaddy deep fryer that no longer works.
would you do 5160 the same way? Also when you but it in the oven for 2 hours, then let it cool over night or let it cool for how long and then, heat for 2 hours again and let cool over night. Thanks
I live in Arizona. I just leave the oil outside and mother nature heats it to 120 degrees +.
what do you think about vaccuum heat treating?
nice!
'
Thank you! Cheers!
I read that to properly heat treat the blank you need to keep it just inside the non-magnetic range for 4-6 minutes per millimeter of thickness.This gives the particles in the metal time to align properly for maximum harness. Do you do that?
What rivets are you using to hold there handle on? And do you completely sharpen the knife before heat treatment or get the final edge on it afterward?
I would not sharpen the knife before the heat treat, you will warp your edge if you do.
Love your channel thank you for sharing your knowledge!!!!.... When you mentioned tempering the blades for 2 hours , is that 2hrs straight or one hour increments??? Thanks again!
I do 2 hrs straight and then let it cool in oven overnight
@@DIYeasycrafts awesome thank you really appreciate it!!!!
Very, very informative and presented educationally. One thing I don't agree with is that if you decide to soak the blade in vinegar water overnight to remove the scale, this will result in a "weak" temper which could allow some of the brittleness to remain in the blade. Trick with tempering, do it as soon as the blade returns to ambient temperature after the quench. Aside from that, this guy is spot on!
I think you mean BEFORE it returns to ambient temperature after the quench. Ideally the blade should go directly from the finished quench into a warm oven without dropping to room temp.
I worked in a shop where we used transmission fluid for to quench mag ejector springs. Would that be appropriate for a knife?
Only if you enjoy breathing toxic fumes from the transmission fluid burning.
@@danunger3240 you don't just sit there burning fluid. You dunk the part. There's a moment of flame, as it goes in, but that's it. If you don't dunk the part, the quench isn't even.
@@calebjohnson7592 it's a horrible thing to quench in, when there's much better, professionally designed quench oils.
Is the temperature in centigrade scale or Fahrenheit scale ..? And how many cycles of tempering is necessary?
Fahrenheit and usually two tempering cycles.
So do I sand off the black carbon before putting it into the oven?
I dont but no reason you should not
Nice video
The reason why you move the blade around in the oil is because if you dont, it could be that hot gas bubbles form at the blade
You prolly dont care at all but does anyone know a method to get back into an Instagram account?
I was dumb lost the password. I love any tricks you can offer me
@Jack Justice Instablaster ;)
@Rodney Patrick I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process now.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
You are analyzing the color in daylight and they look prettt bright orange to me which appears too hot. I HT my carbon steels in the near dark garage and touch a magnet to the blade. As soon as the magnet sticks, I pull it off and put the blank back in the forge and heat it back up just a little bit until I get that dark red color and it's nonmagnetic again, then quench. Of course, getting a file to skate is a good test you got a blade heat treated. When I first started and got blanks too hot / too orange, I had bad results with the steel turning out too soft. Let me know what you think. Good video, though.
I have a chiefs knive im making, its a cross between german and japanese. But i made it from flat 1095 carbin spring steel. Is it worth me risking destorying never having tempering before or is there really no need to temper it
Very important to temper the blade after heat treating. Otherwise a simple drop on the floor could cause the blade to break
@@DIYeasycrafts thank you but what if I don't heat treated at all do you think the knife would be durable enough to last
@@jblazeangel6969 no
@@bfries555 thanks
Do you grind the blade before heat treatment while the metal is soft or after the total heat treating process and annealing?
I do rough bevels before heat treating and then just clean them up after
can you do this same process on 1095 swords? Thanks for this video btw.
YES just have to watch for warping
@@DIYeasycrafts How can i prevent it from warping. Something in particular?
Can you re-use the oil after quenching the knife in it? Like can I have one container with oil in it and just use it for a year without having to change the oil?
Yes
@@DIYeasycrafts thanks!
@@DIYeasycrafts What kind of oil do you recommend for 1095 quenching?
@@jimi1291 kinda late but invest in parks 50. Its expensive but its the most adequate oil for 1095. Canola works somewhat but parks 50 is best
Can you put a chunk of tube steel in the forge and heat the knife inside that to make it heat more even?
No. There's no benefit to inserting a steel tube inside your forges' refractory. As far as heating more evenly, one could try applying multiple burners (A single burner inlet and burner on either side of your forge) or, if when heating a double edged item (dagger, arming sword, etc,) just get really good at recognizing signature colors whilst rotating your pinchers (tongs.) But remember, you only want to "focus" the quench on the edge....In other words, don't try to harden the flats or spines of your blades. One burner/2 inline burners are sufficient for knives and most single edged swords. I hope this helps a bit...given it's a bit late. ;-)
@@marcburkett9834 there absolutely IS a benefit to creating a baffle in the forge to get more even heat. A MAJOR benefit. Unless you're using a ribbon burner, any propane forge will be improved by it, no matter how nice of a swirling flame you have. Get a LONG thermal probe and check the temp every few inches of depth in your forge and you'll be shocked at how much variance there is... and that causes big differences across the length of your work when you HT in a forge. But making a baffle *mostly* mitigates that difference.
At approximately 6:44, after tempering, I noticed you cleaning the blade on the belt sander by holding it with a magnet. If the blade was de-magnetized in the heating process, why does the magnet work to hold the blade??
,
,
Blade will only stay de magnetized while at critical temp. As soon as it cools even a little bit its magnetic again
On the final shot of that hunter with the blue in the handle, how are you getting the "mottled" finish on the unground part of the blade? Thanks for sharing your videos, I enjoy your posts!
That is a Electro metal etched finish. Basically like the background texture from metal etching
Can it be done with a blow torch?
Absolutely, just make sure you heat the blade evenly and reach critical temp (non magnetic)
I got a slow quenching oil 28 sec can I use that for 1095?
no
Have you tried Nitro-V SS yet?
No my first venture into stainless steel is with AEB-L. Already cut out and beveled the blanks. Friend is heat treating them for me. Should have the video finished by next wk. Going to be very interesting how it holds an edge
source on those long tongs?
My friend is a blacksmith. He gave them to me. Sorry
Would love to see some refractory cement on the k wool...
My fire cement is lime and fiberglass. Able to withstand a real fire.
it's not about the lining withstanding the flame @@luciusirving5926 ... it's about your lungs
what unit do you use for temperatures?
It's all in Fahrenheit
@@bobcatethan8919 thanks
i was told to HT 1095, i needed 3 HT's, and then on the 4th, i quench. it seems you did just once, no? i was told to also hold them at those temps, for about 15 mins. and the oven part, was twice at 450, for 2 hours. too much?
If you have a heat treating oven you can hold temp for ten to 15 min. With a forge its not realistic. You just need to get it to critical temp (non magnetic) hold for a bit and then quench. I have always tempered 2 cycles at 395 fot two hours and then let it cool slow without opening oven door.
@@DIYeasycrafts hows your edge retention, what's the hardness after your process? thank you!
@@cankeco After this video I moved into a Devils Forge propane forge so its easier to reach and hold critical temp. On hardness files usually right around 60 on rockwell C scale. Never had a problem with edge retention but I do not mess with a bunch of steels. I use 1095 for my high carbon blades and AEBL for stainless blades
you say heat until non magnetic....then you use a magnet to clean up on the belt sander ?
The steel is only non magnetic when its heated to critical temp. As soon as it cools down a little it returns to its magnetic state. Check out book Introduction to Knifemaking by Berg and Northgard. Its available on amazon.com
I was Kinda Hoping the video would say, How to treat 1095 with a forge?...Don't! go buy some 1084 and save up for an evenheat. lol still a good video, you might try using a pipe as a baffle to allow you to soak and hold at temp in a forge.
I have and evenheat and still kind of like to heat treat 1095 in the forge. Most beginner and novice knife makers have not invested in an expensive heat treating oven. This video was for them. Sorry could have made the title better . Pipe is a great idea. Have used rectangular stock for some larger blades but should have included that tip in the video. Thanks for the feedback
@@DIYeasycrafts I understand, but as I'm sure you are aware, 1095 heat treated less than optimally is much worse than 1084. It needs 5-10 minute soak for optimal results, but even , more crucial is to stay close to 1475 or grain growth starts. Just Bringing 1095 up to non magnetic and then quenching is not going to have all the carbon in solution. 1095 is only a better steel than 1080 or 1084 if everything is done correctly. Most people think if it got hard they did it right, well, Maybe, but probably not. Anyway, people are going to do it regardless cause 1095 is the king of the 10xx series. lol and if thats the case your video will help them out.
I agree completely but also understand that for most its had to keep it at critical temperature for that long with a forge or torches.Having said that I usually get somewhere in the 58 to 60 range on the Rockwell C scale with a forge. Most are very happy with that
What kind of oil is being used
Rapeseed oil
I tried it and it works great
Soybean oil works too.
These temperatures were given in Fahrenheit correct?
Yes
i dont think you can get up to 66HRC 1095 gets when you quench in oil.
Probably not. If that's critical to you, then O1 is probably a better choice. If you can quench 1095 above where you want the tempered result, though, my experience with it and other steels is that you can still get a good result. I have read that if you get a suboptimal but acceptable quench, then tempering colors may be misleading (as in light straw may be slightly less hard than it would've been from max hardness. No experience, but I have accidentally underquenched a plane iron of O1 such that it only landed around 61. I have never tempered it, and it has worked well (plane irons don't really test toughness of the steel too much, but chisels and some heavy planing would damage full hardness untempered material, and my experience with some higher carbon steels like white 1 is that if they are nearly untempered, they can sustain damage from coarse aggressive sharpening stones and then crumble).
David W That’s why I use only Brine with dish soap with 1095. I’ve gotten near 67RC. The issue with canola oil is it’s too slow for 1095, lots of retained austenite, which reduces final hardness.
If you use this stuff (W1 more so) and want make use of the 1% carbon content, you need the quenchant to drop you to Martensite Start (~450F) from Austenitizing temp is 2-3 seconds max. At this speed there is almost no RA, tempering gets care of the minuscule amounts remaining.
O1 is a great steel, however it is not as easy to heat treat. More alloying elements to fully get into solution.
Best way to quench steel to 66 HRC is to circulate the oil like car manufacturers do with springs. You need to cool the oil with pipes holding water. It's a hydraulic process.
I accidentally bought a fair bit of this. I’ll be putting this to the test. If I don’t come and reply to this bitching you can assume it all went well :)
I forgot to ask how do you stop them from rusting
If you're talking about blanks before heat treat, one maker I know sprays them down with WD-40 after grinding bevels and keeps them in plastic until heat treat time, then he cleans them up with degreaser. If you're talking about after heat treat / after they're finished knives, use whatever lubricant you prefer (plenty of products and opinions out there) and wipe down the blade to protect.
I thought 1095 requires a 10 minute “soak” at temp.
I make no claims at being an expert. Only showing what I do and how I do it. However, I do not know anyone that soaks 1095 for 10 minutes in a forge. Maybe if you had an even heat oven you could get away with it but I would be afraid of growing grain and overheating. Most guys do not even go the extra step in pre heating the oil.
If you google the metal stat chart on 1095 is says a 30min soak, . I've heard 10 different ways
You kinda sound like The Fonz lol
Sorry to be that guy but annealing is very slowly cooling something in vermiculite or sand or if you want a complete annealing you have to cool it over several hours in a kiln.
You can also just let it cool in the forge. Works well for me
When you talk about temperatures, you have heard about different names for temperatures Celsius, Fahrenheit etc. why don’t you mention what do you mean
If you are using the CORRECT oil for 1095, you don't need or want to heat it. 1095 is NOT an "easy" steel to heat treat. If you want to use a thermocouple, it shoudl be used in your FORGE if you insist on austenizing in a forge.
Many people have told me the same thing but I have always had good luck with 1095 and Im only using motor oil! As long as you get it to critical temp and keep it there for a couple minutes.
@@DIYeasycrafts I hate to be the one to tell you this, but you probably don’t have a good idea of what a “good result” is were 1095. Motor oil is not anywhere fast enough to harden 1095.