Oiling the Southbend lathe (or any lathe for that matter) Southbend specified A,B,and C type oils explained along with proper oiling locations. NOW IN HD!
I loved the bit 7 minutes in on cleaning the lathe. You are absolutely correct; equipment maintenance is the most important rule in the shop following safety. A well maintained machine is a more efficient machine that doesn't break down and produces the highest quality parts. Cheers! Thanks for a fantastic video! My Heavy 10 and I applaud you.
Like many others, I really like how nice and clean your lathe is. It reminds me that mine is overdue for an overhaul and cosmetic clean-up, which I've done many times in the past. Thanks for shooting and posting the video! Here's a short video (in HD) I shot of my 9A: "Threads" ...1946 9" Southbend Lathe Montage (in HD)
Well done! You inspired me to go out and clean and lube my 9A at 3AM lol. I noticed my saddle was a little stiff while cranking down the ways, so I removed it and cleaned all the crud from the saddle ways and wipers - much smoother now. I don't think you mentioned this, but it is a good idea to drain and flush the headstock spindle oil reservoirs and apron sump every few months.
love the dedication to maintain your tools i maintain vintage ratchets excessively..i just cant stand the idea of dry gears lol when i have enough room for one ill get a lathe..
Thanks for going over this. I oiled almost everywhere before I turned on my new used 1928 South Bend, but there were a couple places I missed. I think my counter shaft needs a little work after seeing yours, didn't know there was a felt pad I can see my shaft. The counter shaft also has about .250 side to side play, is that normal or is there some sort of collar between the pulley and the bearing?
Great series of videos. Any chance of making videos for the replacement of all wicks on the SB 9 machines? Also, I'd appreciate a short one about how you chose the belt on your machine. If you've already covered these subjects, could you point me to the episodes? Again, entertaining and educational. Thanks.
"Its your lathe....you have nobody to blame but yourself". I love that line. I wish the young kids at work could understand that. We have a brand new $85k marvel cnc saw that looks like its been there for 10 years
Nice camara, on my model A, my weekly practice is to rub in on my ways silver never size then rub in with paper towel then buff with a paper towel, then the way oil and this is done on all my machines so they always look new.
First rate lathe maintenance video. With your kind of care, your SB will last at lease another 100 years! I"m a new sub, so pardon me for asking; which SB lathe is this? It looks like new, did I miss a restoration series? Thanks for al the time and effort you put into sharing you knowledge and skill with your viewers. Roy Buffalo, NY
I'd recommend using type A spindle oil on the spindle threads instead of way oil. It's nice and thin and makes removing the chuck significantly easier. The thinner the better for the spindle threads.
I just got a Model B. I'm in the process of tearing it down to clean it up, install new wicks, and paint it. I'm trying to find the best source of these lubricants, and so far, McMaster Carr seems to be the best place. But no one is selling the Cling Open Gear and Wire Rope Oil. Got any suggestions for a suitable replacement?
"Flossing the lead screw". Love that! You might want to see if your camera: A. Has a macro setting--that'll let you zoom in all real close like to any objects that are either fairly small or you'd want to show in greater detail. B. Has manual white balance. While you can spend a small fortune on a dedicated white balance card, a sheet of ordinary copy paper works just as well. The footage from the Panasonic looks fantastic, by the way. It's YOUR lathe. You treat it as you see fit. While I'd expect you're supposed to get it dirty, that doesn't mean you need to leave it that way. And if you've spent so much time in its restoration, abuse and neglect seems idiotic to inflict on it.
It has a macro setting that's a pain to get to. Buried in the settings and I have to stop the camera to use it. I've had it work ok a couple of times. Not the most full featured thing in the world, but then again I didn't spend a whole lot on it. Yep it's got some paint wear and chips in it now, but I try to keep it clean. Just a force of habit and everytime I go down the cellar and see it covered in chips when I'm not planning on using it for a while just annoys me :-)
We've got a South Bend just like this one at my place of work, albeit not quite as clean due to everyday use. They hold up very well and will last a lifetime if properly maintained. Where'd you manage to find that one?
Very good video thanks for doing it. I just obtained a pre 1947 South Bend 10", this is a very complete machine with everything there, including a complete set of 5c collets and the holder for them Stole it for $175.00 what do you use for lube in those little brass nubs like you have on the upper left of the tailstock on your lathe? My lathe has these in most of the oil holes that do not have a capped cup on them. My lathe is extremely dirty I have been cleaning it as I investigate it. I hope to have it half as nice looking as yours is.
Nice find. The brass piece on the tailstock is a dauber. It was used to lubricate the center hole of a work piece when using a dead center. The well that it sits in usually contained white lead lubricant. Bet you'll dig all kinds of crud out of it. It's not necessary anymore and most lathes you'll find are missing that dauber. I had to make mine. As far as the rest of them go someone probably added them at some point to keep gunk out of the unprotected oil holes.
I just bought a Southbend 9B. Im new to metal lathes. It looks in fair condition, it has all the parts ext.. I ran it for about 5 minutes and the lathe just stopped, the head stock wouldn't budge!! About 10 minutes later, it would move again...I'm assuming of course it needs oil, but should seize up so quickly without it? Thank you SO much for this video, now i know where to oil my lathe! Which oil spot would i attend to for the head stock?
Absolutely! The spindle needs an oil film to lift it off the cast iron bore. if it's dry then you get metal on metal contact. The spindle oil ports are on the side of the headstock facing you. One on each bearing front and rear.
Very clean lathe! I've just started rebuilding a very old rusty C model and noticed your cross slide ans compound handle micrometers are quite larger than mine, are these original ones ? They must be much better than the tiny ones I have.
can the oil gits get plugged up? If i run my 9B for a ferw minutes it will totally seize, so it is very dificult to manually turn the head. After 10 mins or so, it starts to loosen up and will eb fine again. Is it the gits that is my problem? btw, when the lathe did this i discontinued using it.
any advice on where to get proper replacement belts? Just inherited one of these old beauties, aside from a good cleaning and lubing it badly needs belts!
The motor to countershaft belt is a standard B series belt. the countershaft to lathe belt was originally a leather belt that was either glued, laced, or clipper laced together. A more modern option is using a continuous serpentine belt in place of the leather belt. All 3 are available from McMaster-Carr
can you do a video please on how to lock the cross slide and compound slide please, my tool keeps moving back when it gets pressure from the workpiece :/ all the little things to lock up and adjust would be awesome :D
You can lock the compound and crosslide by tightening 1 Gibb screw, but you shouldn't have to. You probably just have to adjust your Gibbs. Look up adjusting gibb on UA-cam. Tublecain has a good video on it. Of they are too loose there will be excessive play in both. Also you may be fighting backlash. If you wind your crosslide out as you're cutting you have to move it beyond the backlash before you move your feed back in.
it's basically a great reduction system for slower speeds. To engage it flip up the cover directly behind the spindle threads. Rotate the spindle until you see a pin. Pull the pin out. this disengages the bull gear from the flat belt pulley. Look to the outboard end of the spindle. There is a handle that moves the back gear in and out. Pull the handle toward you to mesh that shaft to the two gears on either side of the flat pulley. To disengage back gear do the same process in reverse.
I have a 12 x 36 atlas and against all I know enough to know gears rattling mean wear,,,I use lucas red n tacky on my open gears and quick change gear box,,, now I don't hear anymore rattling,,, and it's all under cover,,,and I always vacuum and never use compressed air
I seen you've discovered that its much easier to keep something clean than it is to try to clean something after it is completely filthy. I've wiped my lathe down from tip to tail and I still think its covered in old brown oil, it's kind of overwhelming to clean one.
great info for a new lathe owner. actually got myself a southbend b9w aswell. the apron is a little sticky and the felt wipers look disgusting. i was an idiot and was playing with the apron wheel and ive noticed its sticking. how can i best fix this?
@@Halligan142 the carriage hand wheel. I think I just got some old oil gunk under the carrier. I sprayed wd40 and it got much smoother but I probly should remove the carrier and clean under that. It looks like we both have a b9w is that right? I'm new to this machine and would desperately love to learn some more. Btw I'm located in CT and I love the ny accent lol. It looks like we do indeed have the same lathe. I would love to talk to you and maybe pick your brain a bit if you dont mind?
@@Halligan142 I need to learn better about the controls on the lathe I cant seem to find a manual anywhere. I also need to learn how to set up the lathe square and level and "tram" whatever that means.
Ryan Inq Type “southbend how to run a lathe” in your search browser and you can find an older PDF copy. You can also buy a print version from Grizzley or eBay. Also I highly recommend getting the rebuild book and felts from eBay if you’re planning on pulling the machine apart. Just search for southbend rebuild kit on eBay and choose your lathe. Full kit comes with the book and all the felt you’ll need for the oilers. You can always shoot me an email halligan142@gmail.com or send me a message via FB messenger. P.S. Boston not New York. Those are fighting words.
@@Halligan142 ah Boston, well I'm from ct so I'm stuck in the middle lol I will most certainly reach out to you sometime. I'm still in the process of setting up a new permanent home for my b9w. Do you happen to have an extra tooling or parts/gears you would part with by any chance? (Always worth the ask lol) I will be watching more of your videos and have subbed so I hope to learn more soon!
A classic machine that has been thoughtfully restored deserves the attention. You've got a great looking machine there.
I loved the bit 7 minutes in on cleaning the lathe. You are absolutely correct; equipment maintenance is the most important rule in the shop following safety. A well maintained machine is a more efficient machine that doesn't break down and produces the highest quality parts. Cheers! Thanks for a fantastic video! My Heavy 10 and I applaud you.
Just bought a Southbend 9 this week, learned allot from your video.
Keep the videos coming.
Glad I could help. Good luck with your purchase!
Thanks for the video!! Great info!! I loved your close-ups and your attention to detail!
Great video. I just purchased the model A and this video has helped me out a great deal! Thanks for posting!
Like many others, I really like how nice and clean your lathe is. It reminds me that mine is overdue for an overhaul and cosmetic clean-up, which
I've done many times in the past. Thanks for shooting and posting the video!
Here's a short video (in HD) I shot of my 9A: "Threads" ...1946 9" Southbend Lathe Montage (in HD)
Thank you and nice lathe and video !
Well done! You inspired me to go out and clean and lube my 9A at 3AM lol. I noticed my saddle was a little stiff while cranking down the ways, so I removed it and cleaned all the crud from the saddle ways and wipers - much smoother now. I don't think you mentioned this, but it is a good idea to drain and flush the headstock spindle oil reservoirs and apron sump every few months.
I just got a lathe like this one thanks for the videos. Also dig the ABA basketball in the background.
Your videos will come in handy. I just picked up a SB 9A today. Almost no wear.
love the dedication to maintain your tools
i maintain vintage ratchets excessively..i just cant stand the idea of dry gears lol
when i have enough room for one ill get a lathe..
Thanks. I have a 1953 9" Model A. It's in pretty good shape, but needs to have the attention that yours has had...Thanks for the video.
Thanks for going over this. I oiled almost everywhere before I turned on my new used 1928 South Bend, but there were a couple places I missed. I think my counter shaft needs a little work after seeing yours, didn't know there was a felt pad I can see my shaft. The counter shaft also has about .250 side to side play, is that normal or is there some sort of collar between the pulley and the bearing?
That is a beautiful looking lathe.
As always, thanks’ for taking the time to make this video! And I support this site. ~M~
Great series of videos. Any chance of making videos for the replacement of all wicks on the SB 9 machines? Also, I'd appreciate a short one about how you chose the belt on your machine. If you've already covered these subjects, could you point me to the episodes? Again, entertaining and educational. Thanks.
so beautiful lathe
"Its your lathe....you have nobody to blame but yourself". I love that line. I wish the young kids at work could understand that. We have a brand new $85k marvel cnc saw that looks like its been there for 10 years
Nice camara, on my model A, my weekly practice is to rub in on my ways silver
never size then rub in with paper towel then buff with a paper towel, then the
way oil and this is done on all my machines so they always look new.
Dude where do you get this chip tray pan under the lathe?? Its perfect and simple i want!!!
great camera,much improvement over the old one. does it come with a remote? nice lathe job to. keep up the good work.
I'm rebuilding a c 1941 Mod A. Where did you get your belt and what material is it made out of ?
First rate lathe maintenance video. With your kind of care, your SB will last at lease another 100 years!
I"m a new sub, so pardon me for asking; which SB lathe is this? It looks like new, did I miss a restoration series?
Thanks for al the time and effort you put into sharing you knowledge and skill with your viewers.
Roy Buffalo, NY
I'd recommend using type A spindle oil on the spindle threads instead of way oil. It's nice and thin and makes removing the chuck significantly easier. The thinner the better for the spindle threads.
Can you or someone tell me where i can get wicks for my 9B? Excelent vidoe, thank you for making it. it will be my go to vid for cleaning my lathe.
I just got a Model B. I'm in the process of tearing it down to clean it up, install new wicks, and paint it. I'm trying to find the best source of these lubricants, and so far, McMaster Carr seems to be the best place. But no one is selling the Cling Open Gear and Wire Rope Oil. Got any suggestions for a suitable replacement?
Basically anything thick that won't sling off. An alternative any automotive supply will have is Motorcycle Chain oil
"Flossing the lead screw". Love that!
You might want to see if your camera:
A. Has a macro setting--that'll let you zoom in all real close like to any objects that are either fairly small or you'd want to show in greater detail.
B. Has manual white balance. While you can spend a small fortune on a dedicated white balance card, a sheet of ordinary copy paper works just as well.
The footage from the Panasonic looks fantastic, by the way.
It's YOUR lathe. You treat it as you see fit. While I'd expect you're supposed to get it dirty, that doesn't mean you need to leave it that way. And if you've spent so much time in its restoration, abuse and neglect seems idiotic to inflict on it.
It has a macro setting that's a pain to get to. Buried in the settings and I have to stop the camera to use it. I've had it work ok a couple of times. Not the most full featured thing in the world, but then again I didn't spend a whole lot on it. Yep it's got some paint wear and chips in it now, but I try to keep it clean. Just a force of habit and everytime I go down the cellar and see it covered in chips when I'm not planning on using it for a while just annoys me :-)
Hey there buddy where do I go to get the large dial upgrade please thanks buddy
We've got a South Bend just like this one at my place of work, albeit not quite as clean due to everyday use. They hold up very well and will last a lifetime if properly maintained. Where'd you manage to find that one?
This one came from a guy on Craigslist up in NH
Very good video thanks for doing it. I just obtained a pre 1947 South Bend 10", this is a very complete machine with everything there, including a complete set of 5c collets and the holder for them Stole it for $175.00 what do you use for lube in those little brass nubs like you have on the upper left of the tailstock on your lathe? My lathe has these in most of the oil holes that do not have a capped cup on them. My lathe is extremely dirty I have been cleaning it as I investigate it. I hope to have it half as nice looking as yours is.
Nice find. The brass piece on the tailstock is a dauber. It was used to lubricate the center hole of a work piece when using a dead center. The well that it sits in usually contained white lead lubricant. Bet you'll dig all kinds of crud out of it. It's not necessary anymore and most lathes you'll find are missing that dauber. I had to make mine. As far as the rest of them go someone probably added them at some point to keep gunk out of the unprotected oil holes.
Maybe you can fabricate some kind of felt wiper to close up that gap for ya - drill and tap to mount.
I just bought a Southbend 9B. Im new to metal lathes. It looks in fair condition, it has all the parts ext.. I ran it for about 5 minutes and the lathe just stopped, the head stock wouldn't budge!! About 10 minutes later, it would move again...I'm assuming of course it needs oil, but should seize up so quickly without it? Thank you SO much for this video, now i know where to oil my lathe! Which oil spot would i attend to for the head stock?
Absolutely! The spindle needs an oil film to lift it off the cast iron bore. if it's dry then you get metal on metal contact. The spindle oil ports are on the side of the headstock facing you. One on each bearing front and rear.
Very clean lathe! I've just started rebuilding a very old rusty C model and noticed your cross slide ans compound handle micrometers are quite larger than mine, are these original ones ? They must be much better than the tiny ones I have.
They are replacements, but they are Southbend parts. Large dials were an option on newer lathes and on the 10K
Thank you.
What paint did you use on your lathe?
can the oil gits get plugged up? If i run my 9B for a ferw minutes it will totally seize, so it is very dificult to manually turn the head. After 10 mins or so, it starts to loosen up and will eb fine again. Is it the gits that is my problem? btw, when the lathe did this i discontinued using it.
Theres no doubt clean machines last longer, and that sure is one clean machine. :)
any advice on where to get proper replacement belts? Just inherited one of these old beauties, aside from a good cleaning and lubing it badly needs belts!
The motor to countershaft belt is a standard B series belt. the countershaft to lathe belt was originally a leather belt that was either glued, laced, or clipper laced together. A more modern option is using a continuous serpentine belt in place of the leather belt. All 3 are available from McMaster-Carr
can you do a video please on how to lock the cross slide and compound slide please, my tool keeps moving back when it gets pressure from the workpiece :/
all the little things to lock up and adjust would be awesome :D
You can lock the compound and crosslide by tightening 1 Gibb screw, but you shouldn't have to. You probably just have to adjust your Gibbs. Look up adjusting gibb on UA-cam. Tublecain has a good video on it. Of they are too loose there will be excessive play in both. Also you may be fighting backlash. If you wind your crosslide out as you're cutting you have to move it beyond the backlash before you move your feed back in.
nice, clean makes you proud
At 4:45 on the right of the sled there is some kind of clock, what does it do?
What exactly is the back gear? When and how do you engage the back gear? Just got a southbend 9a and learning
it's basically a great reduction system for slower speeds. To engage it flip up the cover directly behind the spindle threads. Rotate the spindle until you see a pin. Pull the pin out. this disengages the bull gear from the flat belt pulley. Look to the outboard end of the spindle. There is a handle that moves the back gear in and out. Pull the handle toward you to mesh that shaft to the two gears on either side of the flat pulley. To disengage back gear do the same process in reverse.
Where in the Boston area are you from? ;)
@ 3:16 can i ask what is the two hole on the side of the saddle facing the tail stock? is it for taper attachment? thanks very nice and informative
I'm new with this but Im pretty sure it's for the chasing or fallowing rest
I have a 12 x 36 atlas and against all I know enough to know gears rattling mean wear,,,I use lucas red n tacky on my open gears and quick change gear box,,, now I don't hear anymore rattling,,, and it's all under cover,,,and I always vacuum and never use compressed air
I'm with ya bro. A clean machine will last longer and perform better. Take pride in your machine and treat it well. Good video!
Refurbishing an identical lathe, thanks for the info :)
I guess I have a model c because I don’t have those other handles, It looks like your lathe but my belts are v belts.
I seen you've discovered that its much easier to keep something clean than it is to try to clean something after it is completely filthy. I've wiped my lathe down from tip to tail and I still think its covered in old brown oil, it's kind of overwhelming to clean one.
Where can I buy one can of "cling surface open gear and wire rope oil 11030", they all sell it by case????
I got mine from Mcmaster-carr
***** Thank you, by-the-way, great video, helped me a lot.
damn that is a clean machine....
anyone with give anyone crap about anything. do what you want to do. it's your lathe
great info for a new lathe owner. actually got myself a southbend b9w aswell. the apron is a little sticky and the felt wipers look disgusting. i was an idiot and was playing with the apron wheel and ive noticed its sticking. how can i best fix this?
Which apron wheel? The carriage hand wheel that moves that carriage or the star wheel that engages the clutch for the feeds?
@@Halligan142 the carriage hand wheel. I think I just got some old oil gunk under the carrier. I sprayed wd40 and it got much smoother but I probly should remove the carrier and clean under that. It looks like we both have a b9w is that right? I'm new to this machine and would desperately love to learn some more. Btw I'm located in CT and I love the ny accent lol. It looks like we do indeed have the same lathe. I would love to talk to you and maybe pick your brain a bit if you dont mind?
@@Halligan142 I need to learn better about the controls on the lathe I cant seem to find a manual anywhere. I also need to learn how to set up the lathe square and level and "tram" whatever that means.
Ryan Inq
Type “southbend how to run a lathe” in your search browser and you can find an older PDF copy. You can also buy a print version from Grizzley or eBay. Also I highly recommend getting the rebuild book and felts from eBay if you’re planning on pulling the machine apart. Just search for southbend rebuild kit on eBay and choose your lathe. Full kit comes with the book and all the felt you’ll need for the oilers. You can always shoot me an email halligan142@gmail.com or send me a message via FB messenger.
P.S. Boston not New York. Those are fighting words.
@@Halligan142 ah Boston, well I'm from ct so I'm stuck in the middle lol I will most certainly reach out to you sometime. I'm still in the process of setting up a new permanent home for my b9w. Do you happen to have an extra tooling or parts/gears you would part with by any chance? (Always worth the ask lol) I will be watching more of your videos and have subbed so I hope to learn more soon!
Good information. Could probably cut 7 minutes out of unnecessary Content. Scan in to 7 min.