Love watching guys put it on wrong in all these videos. It must wrap onto fascia. Imagine a gutter on fascia that freezes. Where is the water behind the ice going to travel???? Right up under the drip into the BARE wood and leak. It instructs you in the directions on the package. 4" minimum ONTO fascia. Then install drip. Feel free to put a strip on top of dripedge sealing everything
Malarky, who is the biggest seller in Alaska, wraps their ice shield (peel and stick) 1.5 to 2 inches onto the eve. Then, they button nail the wrapped area (plastic) buttons into the face of eve. Then the metal drip edge is nailed. Metal drip edge covers button nails at this stage. In alaska especially, another layer of peel and stick above the metal drip edge on the roof side. Metal drip edge on roof side nailed in a stagger pattern, and nails when penetrating below ice and shield are waterproofed. The rubberized material grips the nail.
i've seen the ice/water shield and drip edge done 1st and 2nd respectively and the reverse as well. what makes sense to me is the ice barrier 1st (not below the bottom and the drip edge. to me it provides a better barrier between the decking and the fascia than just the drip edge alone. But as I said, a personal preference.
That should have been installed before the eave apron and wrapped it around on top the fasica board itself..... then you put apron... then an underlayment such as tar paper, etc. over that on top the apron. When you have a gutter...ice forms below the apron, then gets behind the apron, then goes upwards onto the roof or where ever it can find a way into the wood, etc. Owens Corning may not show that in it's rule book, but that doesn't make them right. They aren't considering the issue I just described... and my way also covers their rulebook because you still have additional underlayment on top the apron. Heck, even Tom Silva covered this on an episode of This Old House a long time ago.
Passed this comment along to Sean and he understands what you're saying. We install per OC guidelines to pass along warranties to our homeowners. We operate mainly in the Virginia area where the OC guidelines fall within Virginia and surrounding areas' weather.
What in the hillbilly hell are you saying... its ice not a termite... thus there has to be moisture under the water/ice barrier in order for ice to form. Most building codes require ice water barrier 12" past exterior wall on roof. Never heard of wrapping it around the fascia board specially with drip edge.
Exactly. I thought the same thing as he pulled that out. Three day ago I was on a roof and it was a bitch pulling that lower strip out while being on the roof.
Your video is simple and very helpful. I have 1 question before I tackle my roof. Is there a reason why you didn’t installed the drip edge going up the roof before putting on the ice shield.
Rule is eave drip edge, then barrier (intuitively shingled over), then rake drip edge going up. Water that blows in between shingles and rake drip edge will make its way down the barrier. Nice that it also helps hold down the barrier.
We had ice and water shield installed during 50 degree day. Then it rained and water leaked through at OSB seams. Do you think it's an ice and water shield issue? Did it not adhere? Can it re adhere on some warmer days? Or does it have to be replaced?
If you used osb with wax finish on one side, it may not adhere fully. That said, it should not leak if properly installed. Must be an issue higher up the slope.
Put the ice and water on the deck to slightly lower than the edge of the sheet. Then put on drip edge. And if you want lay some more ice and water to sandwich the drip edge. Who wants any sheathing exposed to water?
If you didn't sandwich the drip edge with another layer of ice barrier the drip edge would not quite perform as intended. Water (on high exposure wall) can get blown underneath the asphalt roof and get behind the drip edge. Buildingredients code out here in Commiforia requires drip edge then ice shield on gutter ends on gable side drip can be on top of the underlayment or ice barrier as long as it's 2"×4" drip edge.
That's another method roofers will use. We follow Owen's Corning specs. "Metal Drip Edge: Apply directly to deck along eave unless otherwise specified by local codes." The same information in our response to David Lysohirka's comment.
That doesn't appear to be Ice & Water Shield, but rather peel and stick base for flat roofs. Ice and Water Shield does not have any granules on its top surface.
General I&W does not. You're correct. However, there are specific variations that do have a granular surface to withstand higher temperatures and provide a better grip.
Wrong....in case of ice dam and backup caused by eavesstrough.....you need to cover all sheeting with membrane.....then drip.....then synthetic over membrane and drip👍
Hi David. According to Owen's Corning's Roofer's Guide To Roof Installation, page 9 - section 2: "On Eaves: 1: All underlayment goes on top of drip edge unless otherwise specified by local codes.". You'll notice in later videos that on the rake, the drip edge goes on top of the underlayment like you're talking about. Other shingle manufacturer guidelines say the same thing. At Cenvar, we are an Owen's Corning Platinum Preferred Contractor, and we install according to their guidelines.
@@CenvarRoofingandSolar don't give 2 shits about guidelines....that's made up by some guy like yourself who never spent 25+ years in the field..... And BTW: I am a red seal in water and damproofing.....my methods and ticket says I surpass 'manufacturer specs'.
Love watching guys put it on wrong in all these videos. It must wrap onto fascia. Imagine a gutter on fascia that freezes. Where is the water behind the ice going to travel???? Right up under the drip into the BARE wood and leak. It instructs you in the directions on the package. 4" minimum ONTO fascia. Then install drip. Feel free to put a strip on top of dripedge sealing everything
Malarky, who is the biggest seller in Alaska, wraps their ice shield (peel and stick) 1.5 to 2 inches onto the eve. Then, they button nail the wrapped area (plastic) buttons into the face of eve. Then the metal drip edge is nailed. Metal drip edge covers button nails at this stage. In alaska especially, another layer of peel and stick above the metal drip edge on the roof side. Metal drip edge on roof side nailed in a stagger pattern, and nails when penetrating below ice and shield are waterproofed. The rubberized material grips the nail.
i've seen the ice/water shield and drip edge done 1st and 2nd respectively and the reverse as well. what makes sense to me is the ice barrier 1st (not below the bottom and the drip edge. to me it provides a better barrier between the decking and the fascia than just the drip edge alone. But as I said, a personal preference.
Read Grace's manufacturers instructions on how to install it
Thanks for the concise, clear presentation.
That should have been installed before the eave apron and wrapped it around on top the fasica board itself..... then you put apron... then an underlayment such as tar paper, etc. over that on top the apron. When you have a gutter...ice forms below the apron, then gets behind the apron, then goes upwards onto the roof or where ever it can find a way into the wood, etc. Owens Corning may not show that in it's rule book, but that doesn't make them right. They aren't considering the issue I just described... and my way also covers their rulebook because you still have additional underlayment on top the apron. Heck, even Tom Silva covered this on an episode of This Old House a long time ago.
Passed this comment along to Sean and he understands what you're saying. We install per OC guidelines to pass along warranties to our homeowners. We operate mainly in the Virginia area where the OC guidelines fall within Virginia and surrounding areas' weather.
You mean put the ice and water shield under the flashing/drip edge?
What in the hillbilly hell are you saying... its ice not a termite... thus there has to be moisture under the water/ice barrier in order for ice to form. Most building codes require ice water barrier 12" past exterior wall on roof. Never heard of wrapping it around the fascia board specially with drip edge.
@@gb-jg1ud I hope that's not what he's saying cause that's the antithesis of how to water proof roof. Guess you gotta be smarter than water though.
@@CenvarRoofingandSolar did fine in my opinion... our building code in Donner Ca is far more uptight I'm sure and this would pass inspection.
Awesome video man i enjoyed it more then others 💪
Do you install ice and water shield under a metal roof for an unheated garage?
Ice and water on rakes--laps OVER the deck protection or felt to prevent wind driven rain from getting under deck protection.
How do you pull the plastic wrapping out, in reality, when on an actual roof that is more than three to eight feet off the ground?
Exactly. I thought the same thing as he pulled that out. Three day ago I was on a roof and it was a bitch pulling that lower strip out while being on the roof.
Your video is simple and very helpful. I have 1 question before I tackle my roof.
Is there a reason why you didn’t installed the drip edge going up the roof before putting on the ice shield.
Rule is eave drip edge, then barrier (intuitively shingled over), then rake drip edge going up. Water that blows in between shingles and rake drip edge will make its way down the barrier. Nice that it also helps hold down the barrier.
First time installer.. So why do I see some guys peel off half the backing as they unroll the Ice and Water? Thanks
Good job
2:39 haha just do it correctly and like I said ain’t got no time for all that 😂
We had ice and water shield installed during 50 degree day. Then it rained and water leaked through at OSB seams. Do you think it's an ice and water shield issue? Did it not adhere? Can it re adhere on some warmer days? Or does it have to be replaced?
Or does it need to be reinstalled?
How could anyone answer that with no context or pictures?
If you used osb with wax finish on one side, it may not adhere fully. That said, it should not leak if properly installed. Must be an issue higher up the slope.
Makes more sense to me to put the drip edge BETWEEN the ice water shield and the starter strip, not under.
Lead roofing company in Lake Tahoe says ice shield first than drip edge.
Ain’t got time for all that. This should have already been done.
Put the ice and water on the deck to slightly lower than the edge of the sheet. Then put on drip edge. And if you want lay some more ice and water to sandwich the drip edge. Who wants any sheathing exposed to water?
If you didn't sandwich the drip edge with another layer of ice barrier the drip edge would not quite perform as intended. Water (on high exposure wall) can get blown underneath the asphalt roof and get behind the drip edge. Buildingredients code out here in Commiforia requires drip edge then ice shield on gutter ends on gable side drip can be on top of the underlayment or ice barrier as long as it's 2"×4" drip edge.
The backing on mine wants to peel off in multiple pieces and is really a PITA to peel off on the roof
You may want to go back and read Grace manufacturers instructions for installation
All I have to do now is be 12 feet tall so I can do the roof like you and not worry about falling off.
thanx
The ice and water debate over under or both is just as bad as putting a roll of toilet paper on the toilet paper dispenser over or under
Sandwich the metal ,install 12 " strip then metal per manufacturer's specs but always sandwich the metal
That's another method roofers will use. We follow Owen's Corning specs. "Metal Drip Edge: Apply directly to deck along eave unless otherwise specified by local codes." The same information in our response to David Lysohirka's comment.
I am rusty ty.
That was easy now try doing it standing on the actual roof
You got that right!
iced s modes
This is like OSHA showing us how to wear harness on flat ground! Get up on the roof and show them!
That doesn't appear to be Ice & Water Shield, but rather peel and stick base for flat roofs. Ice and Water Shield does not have any granules on its top surface.
General I&W does not. You're correct. However, there are specific variations that do have a granular surface to withstand higher temperatures and provide a better grip.
once you have ice& water shield on the roof, you will never be able to take it off
In summer time only !
Dude I saw a guy get wrapped up in ice & water shield on a windy day, we saved him.
@@dannystratton7712🤣 I think I worked with that guy before...
@@joetuktyyuktuk8635
I think he must get around quite a bit due to him constantly broadening his employment horizons.
You should have been standing on the roof the whole time.
teach them properly, Major!
Wrong....in case of ice dam and backup caused by eavesstrough.....you need to cover all sheeting with membrane.....then drip.....then synthetic over membrane and drip👍
Hi David. According to Owen's Corning's Roofer's Guide To Roof Installation, page 9 - section 2: "On Eaves: 1: All underlayment goes on top of drip edge unless otherwise specified by local codes.".
You'll notice in later videos that on the rake, the drip edge goes on top of the underlayment like you're talking about. Other shingle manufacturer guidelines say the same thing. At Cenvar, we are an Owen's Corning Platinum Preferred Contractor, and we install according to their guidelines.
Here is a PDF of the guidelines - it's stated on page 6 here.
inspectapedia.com/roof/Roofers-Guide-to-Roof-Installation-Owens-Corning.pdf
@@CenvarRoofingandSolar don't give 2 shits about guidelines....that's made up by some guy like yourself who never spent 25+ years in the field.....
And BTW: I am a red seal in water and damproofing.....my methods and ticket says I surpass 'manufacturer specs'.
Do it on an actual roof!
Not a real roofer
🤦♂
Not a real roofer
🤦♂