Thanks Retro Tech, I live in Qatar where there is probably no one knows anything about pvm/bvm or even knows how to repair them, through your videos i managed to repair few . Thank you !
Thanks for documenting that monitor again, very much appreciated. I have this one and might need to service it in the future so this'll be handy. I love this thing, great monitor for gaming.
Hey Steve, I have the same LCR meter. Love that thing. I decapped my pvm 20M2U and tested the ESR and capacitance of every single cap. Maybe 5% we're out of spec and it was mostly the smaller caps. The end result just made the picture brighter. So I agree with you, no need to replace every single cap on the main board. I would just do the convergence area, power supply, and the ones by heatsinks. Oddly enough my KV-K29MF1 consumer model looks very similar to this one on the inside.
WOW! a rare pro CRT. I just came in and watching it right now Steve. This will be a real treat to see. I really need it. Just being really hectic on where I live as of late with the heat and the Coronavirus still out of control her in NYC. 8^( Anthony..
Dang I hear you bro. It's going to be alright. I'm hoping good people can unite behind a common good and make things better. It's definitely hot 🔥 out right now.
Hey Retro Tech! I own one of these and i want to run the 240p test suite on it via a GameCube but am having no luck locating a tutorial or any directions on how to actually get it to work. Would you be able to point me in the right direction?
Great stuff! I bought one for $300 that has an issue with sync on the RGB input. Composite and S-video work fine. I'm going to try a full recap when I have time. If that doesn't fix the sync issue I bought the sync signal processor IC spare part. Maybe someone damaged the input with TTL sync.
Question I just recently bought a Sony pvm 1341 in amazing condition with the box and inserts no manuals tho, I was wondering why my image doesn't appear? Do I need to connect something to it or would the TV automatically light up after turning on? The power light is on and you can hear it turn on but I see no image, Currently don't ha e anything to connect to it but eventually buying the rbg cables
I'm just waiting on delivery of my capacitors before starting a recap on a Bang & Olufsen MX4000. Sadly three capacitors are weird. 3 legs on the circumference marked as positive and 1 in the centre I assume is negative. I'm gonna probably have to order some testing equipment to learn how it functioned and to see how compatible a 2 legged replacement will be.
@@RetroTechUSA I suspect it is a type of Can Capacitor, I've seen people create replacements for them by soldering multiple radial caps in parallel to recreate their output. I'm quite concerned about attempting to replace them.
@@JaeliusFairmout I saw pics of that monitor displaying games in RGB the other day on a forum I frequent, and I gotta say : it's got a very beautiful picture. Killer casing and looks too.
@@RetroTechUSA found them! They're called "soldering Star capacitors" or sometimes "star leg capacitors" I actually found some the match the specifications for my TV but I fear they are really old (I think they were made in 'West Germany' so pre 1990) and aged capacitors can be as deadly as any out of spec one.
hello @Retro Tech, I also have a 2950qm, when I turn on the monitor the image is shifted a few centimeters to the right, you have to wait for it to heat up for the image to come back correctly in front, and with small geometry problems, I therefore changed the capacitors of the board >"G" >"V">"C", but unfortunately i still have the same problem 😐Which card do you think the problem comes from? VC board?, DX board? 🤔
Hey Steve. I required a bunch of these monitors recently. Do you have a list of caps that commonly go wrong with this model? I really want to future proof mine.
What are you using to check caps in-line? I bought an MESR-100 and its decent but the supplied leads are very short and stubby and I'm hearing that the more expensive testers are more accurate.
The yoke and sub boards attached to the neck would make it a painful job, its certainly more advanced than most commercial units. Outside of that I would target the tube model and search for commercial units with the same tube. Last I checked it wasn't easy to find one close to the same dimensions to fit the front shell. I managed to snag two whole units when I bought mine. One with a clean tube, one with Houston Airport flight schedules burned in. The clean one had a broken power switch and the burned one seemed to have a bad gun. I Frankensteined them together to get me a working unit, still need to recap it for geometry issues. I keep the spare unit for parts should a board or component die in the good one.
It's hard to say because even the best brands and models could still suffer from problems due to age and use. I'd look for any Sony, Toshiba or JVC branded CRT that's 4:3 with component input. Personally I'd also avoid flat screen crts too. So if you find one that meets this criteria, then you can test it to see if it works well.
Hey there! I live in Australia and I own a Sony 2950QM. What’s the difference between the Q and the QM model? I paid $150 for it almost ten years ago when most people didn’t appreciate quality CRT’s. Back then people couldn’t wait to dump their CRT TV’s.
Hey. I was curious so I checked the manual. there's only 1 instance where I see a difference mentionned between the two, and I think it gives us our answer : ''Operate the unit on 100 -120 V AC (PVM-2950Q) or 220 - 240 V (PVM-2950QM)''. So voltage appears to be only difference between the two.
Perfect TV for retrogames
Thanks Retro Tech, I live in Qatar where there is probably no one knows anything about pvm/bvm or even knows how to repair them, through your videos i managed to repair few . Thank you !
I love how you document your repairs on the videos!! Thanks
Thanks for documenting that monitor again, very much appreciated. I have this one and might need to service it in the future so this'll be handy. I love this thing, great monitor for gaming.
Thaanks. It's the best analog monitor all around. Wonderful machine really.
Thank you very much for the documentation! Thinking about recapping my 2950 as well, now that I have a desolering gun.
Good luck
Hey Steve, I have the same LCR meter. Love that thing. I decapped my pvm 20M2U and tested the ESR and capacitance of every single cap. Maybe 5% we're out of spec and it was mostly the smaller caps. The end result just made the picture brighter. So I agree with you, no need to replace every single cap on the main board. I would just do the convergence area, power supply, and the ones by heatsinks.
Oddly enough my KV-K29MF1 consumer model looks very similar to this one on the inside.
Awesome, thanks for the info!
Hi, I'm going to be recapping a 2950QM. Do you happen to have a list of the caps you replaced in your 2950Q?
WOW! a rare pro CRT. I just came in and watching it right now Steve. This will be a real treat to see. I really need it. Just being really hectic on where I live as of late with the heat and the Coronavirus still out of control her in NYC. 8^(
Anthony..
Dang I hear you bro. It's going to be alright. I'm hoping good people can unite behind a common good and make things better. It's definitely hot 🔥 out right now.
Have this monitor and LOVE it, probably needs a recap sometime though....
It's one of the best! Definitely worth restoring and keeping as long as possible
Hey Retro Tech! I own one of these and i want to run the 240p test suite on it via a GameCube but am having no luck locating a tutorial or any directions on how to actually get it to work. Would you be able to point me in the right direction?
How to correct the bumpy effect at the middle top? It creates a wavy effect on the scrolling
Great stuff! I bought one for $300 that has an issue with sync on the RGB input. Composite and S-video work fine. I'm going to try a full recap when I have time. If that doesn't fix the sync issue I bought the sync signal processor IC spare part. Maybe someone damaged the input with TTL sync.
That monitor is rated for 5vpp on the sync line, so don't think that should damage it.
It does require C Sync I believe
Thank you
@@RetroTechUSA It'll do RGsB and component as well, and on that note, maybe Ross should try RGsB first.
@@jamon1567 forgot to mention ypbpr/component has sync issues too. Thats why i suspect the sync signal processor IC is damaged.
Freaking amazing restoration!
Can pincushioning for this unit (at the top & bottom) be fixed via the service menu? I don't have a remote to test with, and they are hard to find.
Question I just recently bought a Sony pvm 1341 in amazing condition with the box and inserts no manuals tho, I was wondering why my image doesn't appear? Do I need to connect something to it or would the TV automatically light up after turning on? The power light is on and you can hear it turn on but I see no image, Currently don't ha e anything to connect to it but eventually buying the rbg cables
I'm just waiting on delivery of my capacitors before starting a recap on a Bang & Olufsen MX4000.
Sadly three capacitors are weird. 3 legs on the circumference marked as positive and 1 in the centre I assume is negative. I'm gonna probably have to order some testing equipment to learn how it functioned and to see how compatible a 2 legged replacement will be.
Yeah, ive seen a few of those. They are crazy. Ill try to find out what those are technically called.
@@RetroTechUSA I suspect it is a type of Can Capacitor, I've seen people create replacements for them by soldering multiple radial caps in parallel to recreate their output.
I'm quite concerned about attempting to replace them.
@@JaeliusFairmout I saw pics of that monitor displaying games in RGB the other day on a forum I frequent, and I gotta say : it's got a very beautiful picture. Killer casing and looks too.
@@RetroTechUSA found them! They're called "soldering Star capacitors" or sometimes "star leg capacitors"
I actually found some the match the specifications for my TV but I fear they are really old (I think they were made in 'West Germany' so pre 1990) and aged capacitors can be as deadly as any out of spec one.
hello @Retro Tech, I also have a 2950qm, when I turn on the monitor the image is shifted a few centimeters to the right, you have to wait for it to heat up for the image to come back correctly in front, and with small geometry problems, I therefore changed the capacitors of the board >"G" >"V">"C", but unfortunately i still have the same problem 😐Which card do you think the problem comes from? VC board?, DX board? 🤔
Client wants a recap of his Sony PVM-2950QM. Going to do the Powersupply, neckboard and deflection.
Anything else?
Hey Steve. I required a bunch of these monitors recently. Do you have a list of caps that commonly go wrong with this model? I really want to future proof mine.
where can i get a remote for my PVM-2950QM?
My favorite monitor too !
She's a beauty
What are you using to check caps in-line? I bought an MESR-100 and its decent but the supplied leads are very short and stubby and I'm hearing that the more expensive testers are more accurate.
I snagged one of these with bad screen burn.... If I found a commercial Trinitron the same size could I possibly swap the tubes?
The yoke and sub boards attached to the neck would make it a painful job, its certainly more advanced than most commercial units. Outside of that I would target the tube model and search for commercial units with the same tube. Last I checked it wasn't easy to find one close to the same dimensions to fit the front shell. I managed to snag two whole units when I bought mine. One with a clean tube, one with Houston Airport flight schedules burned in. The clean one had a broken power switch and the burned one seemed to have a bad gun. I Frankensteined them together to get me a working unit, still need to recap it for geometry issues. I keep the spare unit for parts should a board or component die in the good one.
What temperature would you suggest? Im working towards a recap but still working out the final details
Can you recommend me a consumer grade CRT that accepts at a mininum, RF, and YPbPr and actually has a service menu that works?
It's hard to say because even the best brands and models could still suffer from problems due to age and use. I'd look for any Sony, Toshiba or JVC branded CRT that's 4:3 with component input. Personally I'd also avoid flat screen crts too. So if you find one that meets this criteria, then you can test it to see if it works well.
@@RetroTechUSA how come you dont like flat screens
@@dudeguy7347 focus, even with dynamic focus compensation circuitry, is just not as good as on a curved screen
Hey there! I live in Australia and I own a Sony 2950QM. What’s the difference between the Q and the QM model? I paid $150 for it almost ten years ago when most people didn’t appreciate quality CRT’s. Back then people couldn’t wait to dump their CRT TV’s.
Hey. I was curious so I checked the manual. there's only 1 instance where I see a difference mentionned between the two, and I think it gives us our answer : ''Operate the unit on 100 -120 V AC (PVM-2950Q) or 220 - 240 V (PVM-2950QM)''.
So voltage appears to be only difference between the two.
.Also, I heard that the ‘M’ on Sony professional monitors stands for Medical 🏥
Nice