Thanks for this great video, very informative! I've got a Olympus OEV 203 that works great so far. If I remember correctly it was manufactured 2002 so hopefully the capacitors still got some health left a little while longer. Bought it from an private Ophthalmologist for around 200 euro whereas he had bought it from a hospital where it was used during operations. According to him it was almost immediately put in storage and didn't see much use since they opted for LCD. I will most certainly have a go at the capacitors in a near future for preventative measures. Again, great content, keep up the good work!
This is exactly why I’m thankful people like you know how and are willing to help. I also have the three RGB lines at the top, I think adjusted off my screen by my vertical hold or something (sorry for poor vocab). Now I know I need it serviced ASAP
This is amazing! I just scored one of these for super cheap, but was bummed when I fired it up for the first time and saw these lines. After watching this video, I'm certain I can easily do the repair myself! Thanks!
I got mine working! Replaced 8 caps that are closest to this heat sink and it looks beautiful. So stoked! Thanks for this. The fact that I got mine for $0.00 I might go ahead and recap the all of the boards. Next is to rewatch your PVM 2030 video re: line folding issues since I have that monitor and that same issue.
Hey, your video production has gotten really good, the camera work and lighting is fantastic now. Really appreciate all the videos, since I have a 20M4U.
Hey Steve catching up on some content I missed. Awesome job with this video, reminds me that I have a Sony 14M4U with the same problem just not that bad.
When mine is in underscan mode I can see the 3 lines, but the blue line gradually slopes up (from right to left) and intersects with the top red line on the far left. This is causing a slight blue tinge to the white cross-hatch pattern in the top left area of the screen (about 4 horizonal squares from left to right from corner). If I look through a magnifying glass I can clearly see that the blue beam is ever so slightly too high/misaligned in that small area of the screen. I've done the recap and adjusted the geometry, but the blue line still intersects/merges with the red line? Other than that the monitor is perfect. Any ideas?... Convergence rings or yoke pots perhaps? Thanks
11:40 I had the IC issue on my 20M4E and I don't think it's related to the RGB lines - I've never had issues with them and I didn't replace any caps when I replaced the three ICs.
I have a 2053MD and my red green blue line are kinda bent at one end, also the line is not level it s slightly tilted down on the left side. Don t know if it s just caps or the all tube is miss align. I also have a older model PVM-1443MD that don t show picture but turns on. I was messing with the pots inside to adjust the picture, with a screw driver (i didnt have a plastic rode at the time) and i touch something and the picture disappear. I don t know if i can get it to work again.
Hi! I have this same pvm, year 2003. Do you know which IC I need to replace to fix a vertical collapse issue (horizotal line right in the middle) the monitor was working very well until recently. My guess is that a cqpacitor failed, which caused the IC to fail. 😢
Hello friend great video. Can you help me. I have a Sony Trinitron KV-29CL11E TV and would like to factory reset it. I want to leave it from the factory to restore the service menu. Thanks and greetings from Spain.
I have a OEV-203 and a 20M2, neither have this foldover issue. Do you think it's possible that both of them had the fix applied in the past, since Sony sent out a memo about it?
Hey man! Love your channel. I own a 2530 and I plugged my Sega Saturn in via Scart to D25. The picture is leaning left, is that something I can fix with the potentiometer pins?
Hello @RetroTech, I would like to ask the cause that makes, after sometime image starts trying to slide from up to down and with more time, the whole image starts doing the same with more frecuency. If I shut-down the CRT and power-on again, this is fixed until sometime again. Can be fixed? it is better to buy another CRT? Thanks!
How do you rotate the yoke on these? I got a 20M2E and I'm struggling at it, I'm also quite unsure about what it's safe to touch during this operation. Thank you!
A pencil? To poke around a very high voltage circuit?!? You do know that pencil leads are quite conductive (on account of being mostly graphite), right?
@@RetroTechUSA As you clearly know, given that you (correctly) went on to demonstrate discharging it, various parts of CRT displays can hold a charge after unplugging, for varying amounts of time depending on the design. You were showing the pencil _before_ discharging it… I’m not saying using a pencil is _highly_ likely to result in shock, just that it’s… not smart, given the ample availability of far less conductive things, like spudgers, plastic straws, bamboo skewers, chopsticks, dowels, etc. At the voltages that could be present in the worst-case scenario, a pencil lead’s resistance is low enough as to be just as dangerous as a piece of metal.
The dog at 5:00 is cracking me up😂
Didn’t even notice him til you went outta frame lol.
Gotta love the reflection in the monitor of Brutus completely passed out !
I have this monitor, I love it :)
2 RGBs and an easy service menu.
And 600 TVL is pretty sharp.
Thanks for this great video, very informative! I've got a Olympus OEV 203 that works great so far. If I remember correctly it was manufactured 2002 so hopefully the capacitors still got some health left a little while longer. Bought it from an private Ophthalmologist for around 200 euro whereas he had bought it from a hospital where it was used during operations. According to him it was almost immediately put in storage and didn't see much use since they opted for LCD. I will most certainly have a go at the capacitors in a near future for preventative measures. Again, great content, keep up the good work!
Thanks, yeah a lot of medical PVMs where just stuffed into storage later once LCDs starting gaining a presence. Olympus CRTs are great!
More great content from the CRT whisperer!
Thanks you
This is exactly why I’m thankful people like you know how and are willing to help. I also have the three RGB lines at the top, I think adjusted off my screen by my vertical hold or something (sorry for poor vocab). Now I know I need it serviced ASAP
0:20 they never spark, the bleed off resistor is really good on that era trinitron.
This is amazing! I just scored one of these for super cheap, but was bummed when I fired it up for the first time and saw these lines. After watching this video, I'm certain I can easily do the repair myself! Thanks!
I got mine working! Replaced 8 caps that are closest to this heat sink and it looks beautiful. So stoked! Thanks for this. The fact that I got mine for $0.00 I might go ahead and recap the all of the boards. Next is to rewatch your PVM 2030 video re: line folding issues since I have that monitor and that same issue.
Hey, your video production has gotten really good, the camera work and lighting is fantastic now. Really appreciate all the videos, since I have a 20M4U.
Thank you very much!
Thanks for this video, I'm about to re cap my 20m2mdu to hopefully fix some of my geometry issues!
That bunkbed corner does seem nostalgically cozy.
Hey Steve catching up on some content I missed. Awesome job with this video, reminds me that I have a Sony 14M4U with the same problem just not that bad.
Watching while playing some Solar Jetman in my own nostalgic room. Good times.
When mine is in underscan mode I can see the 3 lines, but the blue line gradually slopes up (from right to left) and intersects with the top red line on the far left. This is causing a slight blue tinge to the white cross-hatch pattern in the top left area of the screen (about 4 horizonal squares from left to right from corner). If I look through a magnifying glass I can clearly see that the blue beam is ever so slightly too high/misaligned in that small area of the screen. I've done the recap and adjusted the geometry, but the blue line still intersects/merges with the red line? Other than that the monitor is perfect. Any ideas?... Convergence rings or yoke pots perhaps? Thanks
11:40 I had the IC issue on my 20M4E and I don't think it's related to the RGB lines - I've never had issues with them and I didn't replace any caps when I replaced the three ICs.
Picked up a Sony PVM 20M2U a few days ago. I just bought the replacement capacitors.
I see the RGB lines when I have it in 16:9 and underscan.
Hi, on my pvm14n5e, I have the image moving slightly. Can I send a video for a diagnosic?
The last few seconds seeing Brutus turned out to be the highlight of my day Steve. Love that guy. 8^)
Anthony..
Thanks Anthony!
I have a working OEV203. Will be saving this video for future reference. Can you post a cap kit for this monitor if one doesn’t exist? Thank you!
Great video as always, thx for sharing !
Thanks for watching!
Hello. At 1:04 is that a Anvil AN25M14 Hard Transit Monitor Case? Im trying to look for one on ebay but cant find it..
I have a 2053MD and my red green blue line are kinda bent at one end, also the line is not level it s slightly tilted down on the left side. Don t know if it s just caps or the all tube is miss align.
I also have a older model PVM-1443MD that don t show picture but turns on. I was messing with the pots inside to adjust the picture, with a screw driver (i didnt have a plastic rode at the time) and i touch something and the picture disappear. I don t know if i can get it to work again.
Great work as always. I wonder if there would be an automotive equivalent to those plastic rivets you mentioned which are rare.
Hey, where can I buy 11:00 inductor coil horizontal linearity (the orange one) on aliexpress or something because I'm not from the US
i have issues like that in my barco monitor.
i will try to cap it.
i assume it's the same solution like you.
thanks
Can your recommend flybacks that can be used for PVMs??. Can a standard CRT flyback be used???
Which 2 capacitors are for the dropped rgb line issue?
Hi! I have this same pvm, year 2003. Do you know which IC I need to replace to fix a vertical collapse issue (horizotal line right in the middle) the monitor was working very well until recently. My guess is that a cqpacitor failed, which caused the IC to fail. 😢
How did you determine it was those two capacitors specifically that were causing the issue? Best wishes.
Sony has an official service bulletin about it
Hey, awesome video ! I have a similar issue on a 2054QM unit. It looks very similar, will the same
repair be applicable to it?
Cheers
Hello friend great video.
Can you help me.
I have a Sony Trinitron KV-29CL11E TV and would like to factory reset it.
I want to leave it from the factory to restore the service menu.
Thanks and greetings from Spain.
Do you have a capacitor list?
I have a OEV-203 and a 20M2, neither have this foldover issue.
Do you think it's possible that both of them had the fix applied in the past, since Sony sent out a memo about it?
This is something that can develop over time. Just keep watch or do it as a preventative measure.
I have a PVM-14L5 that doesn’t have an image when using the the sync cables. How could I get mine repaired in the Bay Area?
Savon Pat is in Huntington Beach
@@RetroTechUSA it was initially repaired by him but now it doesn’t work.
Hey man! Love your channel. I own a 2530 and I plugged my Sega Saturn in via Scart to D25. The picture is leaning left, is that something I can fix with the potentiometer pins?
bad awayi i have Barco its great monitor.
unfortunately there's no documentation in the internet
in consumer tvs when you see these lines its usually the B+ line too high
Hello @RetroTech, I would like to ask the cause that makes, after sometime image starts trying to slide from up to down and with more time, the whole image starts doing the same with more frecuency. If I shut-down the CRT and power-on again, this is fixed until sometime again. Can be fixed? it is better to buy another CRT? Thanks!
How do you rotate the yoke on these? I got a 20M2E and I'm struggling at it, I'm also quite unsure about what it's safe to touch during this operation. Thank you!
Search my channel for "yoke tilt fix" I have a couple videos available on the subject. Thanks
i got a nos kv32fs120
Hi.Where did you buy red capacitors?
www.we-online.com/web/en/wuerth_elektronik/start.php
I also like the bed at the top. That is for when you come home with an new CRT. To hide from the wife.
I wish I had a CRT bunker :(
4:35
Looks like this is a task for....
my 3D printer :P
The RGB lines are intentionally generated, the monitor uses them to self adjust beam current to allow for aging of the CRT
I can see you performing open heart surgery in your spare time for practice.
Killer Video 🏆
Thanks Dude
most PVM's have a self discharge built in.
6:55
Thunderstrike 🤘
A pencil? To poke around a very high voltage circuit?!? You do know that pencil leads are quite conductive (on account of being mostly graphite), right?
Did you notice the monitor was unplugged?
@@RetroTechUSA As you clearly know, given that you (correctly) went on to demonstrate discharging it, various parts of CRT displays can hold a charge after unplugging, for varying amounts of time depending on the design. You were showing the pencil _before_ discharging it…
I’m not saying using a pencil is _highly_ likely to result in shock, just that it’s… not smart, given the ample availability of far less conductive things, like spudgers, plastic straws, bamboo skewers, chopsticks, dowels, etc. At the voltages that could be present in the worst-case scenario, a pencil lead’s resistance is low enough as to be just as dangerous as a piece of metal.
👍🏻
Hi Steve, I've written you both via email and Twitter DM, hoping to get some help. (Paid, of course)
No reply so far... :-(
Sorry, I'm currently booked up into November by Patrons.