I've searched everywhere trying to figure out the difference, and explain how and why. You're video was straight forward, and answered ALL my questions! Thank you!
Every expensive cold-air intake company claims that HP will increase from installing a cold air system. To get more HP do you have to adjust the mixture? I have never seen an actual application that increases HP. Sure, the air coming through is a few degrees cooler, which isn't ever a bad thing. But when a company has dyno graphs on the side of the box, it shows 25-50 extra HP on some of them. What are these companies doing to get these gains? If you look closely, some of the graphs have a "*results may vary **results are based on simulator" and stuff like that. Is there any company that offer your money back if you dont increase HP?
I want both. Just install a short ram filter and custom build a heat shield around it, then pipe in cold air from the outside like they do with brake ducts.
Yes it does, Angel! Don't believe those other videos that claim that they don't - subscribe and stay tuned for an upcoming video that will prove it once and for all!
Believe me I had both for my integra. One was $180 fujita intake with the whole pipe down to the bottom, and the other was at cheap short ram from advanced auto. I felt like the long 1 had a nicer cleaner sound but a 10% power gain. However, the short ram had a 25% power gain and made it sound louder. Not uncomfortable loud, but when I got on it, it sounded like a beast.
Bought an aem cold air intake for my 01 vw golf 1.8 turbo. 15 whp increase as I watched on the dyno from another stock one getting the same mod. Aem did say up to 18 whp and hell yes It made a difference. This was several years ago but I will say that on a naturally aspirated engine no, it's not much power but you do gain a little. Remember, for every 10 degrees cooler you gain 1 horsepower and also, 1 gallon of gas weighs about 10 lbs. Happy tuning!
If your car sees a lot of damp weather, a short ram intake would definitely be recommended, although you could always install an air bypass valve to cut off air flow to your engine if your filter becomes submerged in water.
only if it goes too low and in front of the car. i towed a jetta one day with a real low cai and the car was slammed. the guy went over a puddle and the engien hydrolocked pretty much instantly. best to go with a fender draw setup...
i guess he didnt. it also happened to my friend with a RSX type S , his didnt lock up though. engien shut off but cranked back up, it threw 2 rods a week later!!!!
Only if you submerge it or decent splash directly in the intake. Water wont hurt the engine unless too much enters the cylinder which the engine cannot compress and then parts can break/bend.
I put a stage II intake system from Corksport on my 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 and the power gains were huge! Around 40hp on the dyno with the short ram and turbo inlet pipe. I don't know what people are talking about. Some of your best gains with a mod like this is on turbocharged vehicles.
You are correct but that is only if your car is turbocharged. If you have a naturally aspirated engine that is stock you will notice that Cold Air intakes or Short Ram both don't increase horsepower and can sometimes even make you have lease horse's. It's all about marketing and that is why you MUST know what your doing to your...."Honda Civic" before you upgrade to either of these choices.
Activ8 Stage 2 is your intake PLUS a turbo inlet pipe. It's the highest you can go for this car while remaining street legal. Typically a stage I is simply the intake and filter.
We're sure you already noticed that we have Injen, AEM, and K&N air filter kits for your Ion. You really can't go wrong with any of them, but the Injen intake seems to be a customer favorite.
It all depends on the vehicle and overall setup. In most cases you won't get much if not any horsepower out of aftermarket intakes. That and the filters on cold air intakes often get dirty so fast that ideally they should be changed weekly. It's better just to save up for a turbo or a supercharger rather than spend money on such a minuscule performance upgrade. If you're still thinking about getting an aftermarket intake, make sure it's mandrel tubing and has the least number of bends in the tubing as possible for best airflow.
On a stock ecu yes it will make power but the power made isnt at peak its in the lower rpm range so the mcm dynos only showed peak power they did not show the power bands in the rpm range so theses intake kits and filters will give you power only if you have a chipped ecu will you see the power at the peak level on stock ecu the power is applied in the lower rev range so there is more power just not at peak rpms
My 96 Tahoe with a 5.7 make 255hp with the stock air filter. They say the stock air filter is restrictive. Guess what, Chevy use the same FILTER for the BIG BLOCK 454/7.4 liter to make 290hp.
Cai isn't worth the extra 2 HP vs short ram.what was not mentioned was that ur actual intake manifold to cylinder head is cooking hot.so no matter if u pull 80 degree air from the fender,by the time it hits that hot cylinder head,your it's are probably identical for both
Here's a simple answer for some of you. Short rams tend to have more High End power, becauset their tubing is shorter. But they are more useful for short bursts of power due to the fact that your engine heat makes the air even hotter. (better for drag racing) Cold air intakes tend to give your car a bit more torque than a short ram, but a little less top end. This is due to the length of the tubing. It also maintains its power advantage even through long periods, because of the outside air.
Option number 3 is the best as far as best goes. In the other two options you allow air to flow over the filter too, and that air is actually trying to pull the air out that's going in. Another downside to option number 2 is dirt. The more you bring it to the outside, the more dirt it will catch, and some of that dirt might do damage to your filter. Don't expect miracles from only this modification.
Gotta remember too, on top of all the points AASTV already made, lots of them utilize engineered screen filters to stabilize the airflow before it gets to the MAF ;)
We actually carry lots of good options for your car, including AEM, K&N, Volant. You can't go wrong with any of the well-known brands, but we have plenty of more budget-minded intakes as well that will give you more flow than stock.
The material of the tubing also makes a difference because some materials insulate better than others keeping the air colder as it passes the engine, but this doesn't make a noticeable difference with ram air intakes because the air travels such a short difference.
Andy my man, you said nothing about weather and climate. You do NOT want to recommend a cold air if you live in a rainy climates like say, Seattle for instance. Doing so may actually result in decreased horsepower and engine damage.
On my 2009 Subaru Forester XT (and most newer cars) the best upgrade is a high quality panel filter, in my case the factory airbox has been flow tested and is not restrictive until around 300-350kw.
What i did with my car is I ran a tube tunnel from the front bumper to the intake. Using the piping they use on dryers to release the heat and some pumping ends. When i drive the cold air travels threw this tube to the intake. I can feel the difference in the air flow not to mention the temp. of the car is lower. Plus i notice a difference in gas millage.
another good thing about the k&n system is that it's just about as easy as a short ram to install.. once you assemble the tube, heat shield,velocity stack and filter you attach you're maf and slide it right into place. bolt it down, attach the breather hoses and you're good to go. A full cold air system, at least in my civic si, requires removing your bumper and relocating your battery
There are actually many differences, among them being quality and engineering. The cheaper intakes use inferior filters which might fall apart over time, possibly entering your intake manifold, and they generally haven't been engineered to make power. The bigger companies spend a lot of time and money in R&D to make sure that their products actually produce usable dyno-proven power. Also, if you need a C.A.R.B.-approved intake, those cost more as well because of the certification costs.
Problem I see with all 3 mentioned kits is that they require you to take the MAF sensor out the MAF housing and bolt it straight into the tube. I have done this my self and car will act like its got a bad MAF because the sensor goes nuts. Requiring you to unplug MAF to keep your motor running. MAFsensors are calibrated to there housing so you need the housing for it to work correctly. I used a MAF adapter and worked awesome for me. no check engine light and was able to actually keep my sensor.
you can make a custom intake from the turbo to outside. And as long as it doesn't restrict the air flow on the turbo it is better. I seen people loose power by adding one. And others add power by adding it. It honestly all depends on the placement of it.
The increase in horsepower and torque all depends on the quality and performance of the stock intake. some high end cars are already fitted with OEM performance intakes and thus installing such aftermarket parts will offer little to no performance increase, but if it s a lower-end car with a cheap simple airbox, it can easily gain you 10-15 whp. It did on my Corolla for sure as I dyno tested it before and after.
In our experience, air intake kits can actually help your MPGs a bit, although it does depend on the vehicle. Check out what we have from Injen and K&N. Thanks!
One thing you forgot to mention, even though there is probably someone who has said this, is the environment your in. My Injen Intake has been both CAI & SRI. It's SRI now because where I am it rains heavily. keep in my your enviornment: Lot Of Rain: SRI Sunny alot or not much rain: CAI Both of SRI & CAI have Pros and Cons, so choose wisely and think of the possibilities and scenarios that might happen.
I haven't seen their test but I can tell you from being at the dyno that filters make difference. No filter on my car is good for around 20 hp vs a high flow model.
Some kits offer the option of having piping for both setups, or you can just buy two different kits. You'll have to make sure that if you're switching around piping that all of your sensors are in the right spot.
I bought an Air Raid CAI mainly for the sound and because it was an easy to do myself type mod... Im going to the track tonight for the first time with it, and my new wheels on. Ran 13.7@103.1 will see if I can run faster with the Air Raid and new wheel and tire mods...
definitely not a stupid question, K&N states that you should probably check your CAI during the winter months because of the possibility of slush/water getting in your air intake, just check/clean every so often during the winter months. Very rare occurrence, but has happened, I have a CAI on my durango and seems to be fine still.
I run a CAI in my Lightning and a SRI on my focus. Focus is low and can suck in rain if I were running a CAI because the filters are located behind the bumper. With the SRI I dont worry about rain
A ram air intake will add bottom end power by forcing more air through the inatke because the is almost no resistance slowing the air through such a short tube. Cold air intakes bring colder denser air into the engine that gives more power through mid to high rpms.
I don't really see where people are coming from with these negative reviews of SRI's. I have a 2015 Mazda 3 with the 2.0 which makes 155 HP and 150 lb-ft stock at the crank. With drivetrain loss, It made 132 HP and 128 lb-ft at the wheels. After installing a SRI from Corksport, I ran it again on the dyno and it was making 136 HP and 134 lb-ft at the wheels. While not a huge increase, it was still an increase nonetheless and I also feel slightly improved throttle response. On top of that, it was only 1 HP less then they claimed it would make and the lb-ft rating was spot on. Sometimes it just depends on if your buying a quality intake designed for the car, or a cheap Ebay intake that's "one size fits all." Do your research before you buy.
Unless it's a significant amount of snow, you shouldn't be too worried. Besides, the filter is there for a reason (which helps avoid sucking up large amounts of snow) A little water spatter won't matter, since it will just likely stick to the sides of the tubing or your intake manifold anyway.
CAI are nice to have but you most be aware of things like deep puddles of water or heavy rain b/c there is choice with a CAI do to the fact that the air filter is on the outside that water enter into you engine via the intake system and cause what is called hydrolock
That's trueee I had bought a Aem Cold Air intake for my Del Sol and dyno tuned it with all the other performance parts that I put onto it and then someone told me to put a K&n intake and I took it to the dyno it made the samee power
More power more fuel, it's that simple. My rotary making say 400 HP uses about the same ratio as any other 400 hp engine. Sure turbo engines use some of the fuel to cool the charge but it's still inline.
In my opinion, based on what I understand about air/fuel-delivery, cold-air intakes (really just cold-air air-cleaners) would only make a significant difference on a road-racing car where at peak temperatures the incoming air-charge is a little more dense do to being cooler than without it. It's never bad to have cool air coming in, but don't expect to improve E.T.'s simply because of the addition of such a product.
Some, but not all factory intakes are restrictive. Many modern cars have very efficient intake systems. For example discarding a stock Helmholtz resonator chamber will cause a loss in low end torque.
Stop fighting over hp, on paper cars don't always add up. Easier air flow means quicker response. Colder air moving (since the air gets 'sucked' in like a wind while the car moves) may pass easier into the cylinder and even push the combustion force out quicker. People say it works, just cause one equation doesn't change doesn't mean it cant work.
Ive been tinkering with cars for the past 10 years and whoever says SRI and CAI don't increase any power is full of shit. They both do. Also remember during dyno test the car is stationary and is not subjected to ram effect. Results may vary on road vs dyno. However like the man said, both has advantages and disadvantages. Short ram intakes generally give you alot better response during low rpm acceleration but can be a real bitch during hot and humid weather and afternoons, but during the night, when the temperature drops, they really start to perform and significant increases have been proven especially for turbo charged engines fitted with front mounted intercoolers. Cold air intakes on the other hand provide better power on the higher side of the rpm range, this is due to the length of the intake tubing but you must find a correctly tuned length and diameter intake tubing for your motor. Excessive intake tube length will cause massive lag in response during low rpms.
To summarise all comments: 1. CAI should give you a little more bang for buck especially over the top end. SRI don't do a hell of a lot because air is still same temp going in as it is with the OEM setup. 2. If a SRI was really that much better the Manufacturer would have put it in to begin with. The stock intake has been specifically designed by engineers for that vehicle so unless you're gonna go big with a CAI kit don't bother.... 3. One thing SRI does do is produce a pretty sexy little engine sound aaand it'll look cool to your non-car mates when you pop the hood and they see a big shiny filter staring back at them. 4. Oh and if you do install a CAI, no more gunning it through the puddles on rainy days unless you want water in the engine. Got it.
Cold hair has better combustion. Its science. More combustion = better power output. Higher octane fuel also has better combustion, that's why they use it in race cars or jets, its made for engines that can or need to run it. Both of them together make for a pretty good increase in horsepower. Also having them may increase your fuel economy due to the fact your engine doesn't have to work as hard to get the power it needs for someone that has a heavy foot. Its all just really healthy for your engine in general.
Essentially, short ram intake is a short "less restrictive" pipe, compared to stock airboxes that sits under the hood, near by the engine *in fact, warm air intakes (SRI) give you more MPG...fact*. A Cold air intake's pipe runs down to the fender well (runs towards the bottom of the car) to suck in colder outside air as opposed to engine-warmed air. And yes, it's cheaper to get an SRI.
CAI is so much better for your engine, keep in mind if you plan to drive your car hard a CAI can help stop your engine from overheating.... the key word there is help. As a final note you will see a much more noticable difference in power where as a SRI might not even give you an increase
I've had K&N short ram 69 series and Mopar CAI on my Charger R/T. K&N has been the better of 2 when it comes to looks, sound and power. Its Heat shield and aluminum pipe more than make up for any advantage CAI might've otherwise had.
@peacerob12345 if the cold air intake system sucks up water, it will hydrolock the engine. Seeing as Honda has been making the engine bays in Civics a lot smaller than the 90s civics, you'd probably want a cold air intake. What I recommend is install your cold air intake system, but throw a hydro shield over the filter to prevent water from being sucked up. Hope this helps.
that's true but a cold air system will give you greater potential gains than a short ram, a SRI is just less restrictive, a CAI is less restrictive and delivers even more air due to it being more dense.
Air filters(and their configuration) will never increase performance. Just change your stock filter as often as you should and invest in something more useful.
the difference is where you decide to mount the filter. you could just buy a filter and some piping and do it yourself for a lot cheaper than getting a kit.
We actually have a lot of great options for your car, such as AEM, Injen, K&N, DC Sports, and even more. Take a look at our site and check out what we have, and we're sure you'll find something that meets your needs, style, and budget!
What about a dual cone filter? In South Africa we usually go for the dual cone filter of even a replacement filter from K&N that fits in your standard air box
Hello Mr Andy. I am a fan of yours and I really paying my whole attention to your infos.. Iam from the middle east specifically from Oman.. as u know in summer time it is so hot. Temps reach 50c, and most of the summer days reach 38-48c.. I own an INFINITI G37 sedan 2010, I already installed Stillen Gen3 cold intakes.. what's ur expert opinion regarding the stillen intakes in such hot climate.. thank you so much
Generally speaking, most cars stock intake is engineered great (well, in the past decade or so). CAI draws and stabilizes the air (most do), which is far superior to a short ram which draws in hot air from the engine bay. It all depends on the car, but for a large amount of the situations, a short ram only produces more noise, but not any performance gain. CAI's are much better.
Yes but one disadvantage. Like mine is its a daily. I live where it rains if that intake sucks in a puddle of water. Hydro locks your motor and it will need to be swapped
the cold air intakes are always going to be better... it comes down to simple physics, since air molecules condense under colder conditions by putting on a Cold air intake you are essentially feeding more air into the engine as opposed to a short ram... cant say there is a tremendous difference but hey, every bit of power helps... right?
So the main difference is just the SRI doesnt really bring in cold air but the CAI has special tubing to bring in that cold air? If so im just gonna buy the short ram. cheaper/
I noticed that throughout this video you keep claiming that different filter set up/cold air intakes actually produce more horsepower, however they don't. Mightycarmods have done 2 videos on it, one about pod filters and one about cold air intakes. The pod filter made less horsepower and the cold air intake made no difference.
Thanks! We will be doing videos on exhausts and headers in the not-too-distant future, so please subscribe to our channel to be alerted when those videos are uploaded.
awesome... i don't mean to bash but which do you think would be best. I've heard the rumors of cai maybe bring in water on rainy seasons. i live in texas so weather isn't predictable.
I don't see what the point of running a CAI in my boosted car since the air just gets hot again once it hits the turbo and cools again when it runs through the intercoolers, i just run a short ram and have noticed a slight gain in power,straight pipe helped too
is it possible to show some testing data, with the stock filter and the cold air intake, because I am not sure about the power gains that the kits tell. you are just telling that the system gives more power, but i am not seeing any proof.
Well if your car has a MASS AIR FLOW censor and you install any of these that means more air will go to your engine, and the sensor will read the amount it goes through, and according to that it will ad more fuel, which gives you more power and less miles to the gallon, but its worth it xD
The sound that you get is worth the money😏😏
Short ram = mid range power, cold air = top end power.
I've searched everywhere trying to figure out the difference, and explain how and why. You're video was straight forward, and answered ALL my questions! Thank you!
Every expensive cold-air intake company claims that HP will increase from installing a cold air system. To get more HP do you have to adjust the mixture? I have never seen an actual application that increases HP. Sure, the air coming through is a few degrees cooler, which isn't ever a bad thing. But when a company has dyno graphs on the side of the box, it shows 25-50 extra HP on some of them. What are these companies doing to get these gains? If you look closely, some of the graphs have a "*results may vary **results are based on simulator" and stuff like that. Is there any company that offer your money back if you dont increase HP?
It can, depending on how you drive. With the throaty sound and extra power, however, a lot of people end up mashing the pedal. :)
I want both. Just install a short ram filter and custom build a heat shield around it, then pipe in cold air from the outside like they do with brake ducts.
Is that Heisenberg?!?
SRI for turbos and CAI for NA.
Yes it does, Angel! Don't believe those other videos that claim that they don't - subscribe and stay tuned for an upcoming video that will prove it once and for all!
Believe me I had both for my integra. One was $180 fujita intake with the whole pipe down to the bottom, and the other was at cheap short ram from advanced auto. I felt like the long 1 had a nicer cleaner sound but a 10% power gain. However, the short ram had a 25% power gain and made it sound louder. Not uncomfortable loud, but when I got on it, it sounded like a beast.
Bought an aem cold air intake for my 01 vw golf 1.8 turbo. 15 whp increase as I watched on the dyno from another stock one getting the same mod. Aem did say up to 18 whp and hell yes It made a difference. This was several years ago but I will say that on a naturally aspirated engine no, it's not much power but you do gain a little. Remember, for every 10 degrees cooler you gain 1 horsepower and also, 1 gallon of gas weighs about 10 lbs. Happy tuning!
If your car sees a lot of damp weather, a short ram intake would definitely be recommended, although you could always install an air bypass valve to cut off air flow to your engine if your filter becomes submerged in water.
CAI = risk of water in the engine. Happened to me.
only if it goes too low and in front of the car. i towed a jetta one day with a real low cai and the car was slammed. the guy went over a puddle and the engien hydrolocked pretty much instantly. best to go with a fender draw setup...
did u have an air bypass valve?
i guess he didnt. it also happened to my friend with a RSX type S , his didnt lock up though. engien shut off but cranked back up, it threw 2 rods a week later!!!!
i try to stick with stock air boxes and use a drop in K&N but with better tubing,,
Only if you submerge it or decent splash directly in the intake. Water wont hurt the engine unless too much enters the cylinder which the engine cannot compress and then parts can break/bend.
I put a stage II intake system from Corksport on my 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 and the power gains were huge! Around 40hp on the dyno with the short ram and turbo inlet pipe. I don't know what people are talking about. Some of your best gains with a mod like this is on turbocharged vehicles.
damn thats a good gain. someone told me that on the mazdas the blow off valve is realy flawed and realy bennefits from a upgrade.
You are correct but that is only if your car is turbocharged. If you have a naturally aspirated engine that is stock you will notice that Cold Air intakes or Short Ram both don't increase horsepower and can sometimes even make you have lease horse's. It's all about marketing and that is why you MUST know what your doing to your...."Honda Civic" before you upgrade to either of these choices.
Activ8 What is a "stage I"?
Activ8 Stage 2 is your intake PLUS a turbo inlet pipe. It's the highest you can go for this car while remaining street legal. Typically a stage I is simply the intake and filter.
Andys autosport tv is awesome... so straight to the point easy to understand and everything is crystal clear... ! :) wish u guys were here in malaysia
We're sure you already noticed that we have Injen, AEM, and K&N air filter kits for your Ion. You really can't go wrong with any of them, but the Injen intake seems to be a customer favorite.
The ones we mentioned above would be great on your car - AEM, Injen, K&N, and DC Sports intakes all add power and are made by reputable companies.
It all depends on the vehicle and overall setup. In most cases you won't get much if not any horsepower out of aftermarket intakes. That and the filters on cold air intakes often get dirty so fast that ideally they should be changed weekly. It's better just to save up for a turbo or a supercharger rather than spend money on such a minuscule performance upgrade. If you're still thinking about getting an aftermarket intake, make sure it's mandrel tubing and has the least number of bends in the tubing as possible for best airflow.
On a stock ecu yes it will make power but the power made isnt at peak its in the lower rpm range so the mcm dynos only showed peak power they did not show the power bands in the rpm range so theses intake kits and filters will give you power only if you have a chipped ecu will you see the power at the peak level on stock ecu the power is applied in the lower rev range so there is more power just not at peak rpms
My 96 Tahoe with a 5.7 make 255hp with the stock air filter. They say the stock air filter is restrictive. Guess what, Chevy use the same FILTER for the BIG BLOCK 454/7.4 liter to make 290hp.
Cai isn't worth the extra 2 HP vs short ram.what was not mentioned was that ur actual intake manifold to cylinder head is cooking hot.so no matter if u pull 80 degree air from the fender,by the time it hits that hot cylinder head,your it's are probably identical for both
Here's a simple answer for some of you. Short rams tend to have more High End power, becauset their tubing is shorter. But they are more useful for short bursts of power due to the fact that your engine heat makes the air even hotter. (better for drag racing)
Cold air intakes tend to give your car a bit more torque than a short ram, but a little less top end. This is due to the length of the tubing. It also maintains its power advantage even through long periods, because of the outside air.
Option number 3 is the best as far as best goes. In the other two options you allow air to flow over the filter too, and that air is actually trying to pull the air out that's going in.
Another downside to option number 2 is dirt. The more you bring it to the outside, the more dirt it will catch, and some of that dirt might do damage to your filter.
Don't expect miracles from only this modification.
Gotta remember too, on top of all the points AASTV already made, lots of them utilize engineered screen filters to stabilize the airflow before it gets to the MAF ;)
We actually carry lots of good options for your car, including AEM, K&N, Volant. You can't go wrong with any of the well-known brands, but we have plenty of more budget-minded intakes as well that will give you more flow than stock.
The material of the tubing also makes a difference because some materials insulate better than others keeping the air colder as it passes the engine, but this doesn't make a noticeable difference with ram air intakes because the air travels such a short difference.
THAT BMW IN THE INTRO ALWAYS GETS ME!!!!
Option 3 is still a SRI, but that heat shield really helps keep out the warm air
Andy my man, you said nothing about weather and climate.
You do NOT want to recommend a cold air if you live in a rainy climates like say, Seattle for instance. Doing so may actually result in decreased horsepower and engine damage.
On my 2009 Subaru Forester XT (and most newer cars) the best upgrade is a high quality panel filter, in my case the factory airbox has been flow tested and is not restrictive until around 300-350kw.
This video should make your decision a bit easier, so check it out again to catch anything you might have missed the first time around.
What i did with my car is I ran a tube tunnel from the front bumper to the intake. Using the piping they use on dryers to release the heat and some pumping ends. When i drive the cold air travels threw this tube to the intake. I can feel the difference in the air flow not to mention the temp. of the car is lower. Plus i notice a difference in gas millage.
another good thing about the k&n system is that it's just about as easy as a short ram to install.. once you assemble the tube, heat shield,velocity stack and filter you attach you're maf and slide it right into place. bolt it down, attach the breather hoses and you're good to go. A full cold air system, at least in my civic si, requires removing your bumper and relocating your battery
Great video, this really did help me in making my choice for which Air intake System for my 2005 BMW 325CI Coupe. Thanks
There are actually many differences, among them being quality and engineering. The cheaper intakes use inferior filters which might fall apart over time, possibly entering your intake manifold, and they generally haven't been engineered to make power. The bigger companies spend a lot of time and money in R&D to make sure that their products actually produce usable dyno-proven power. Also, if you need a C.A.R.B.-approved intake, those cost more as well because of the certification costs.
Problem I see with all 3 mentioned kits is that they require you to take the MAF sensor out the MAF housing and bolt it straight into the tube. I have done this my self and car will act like its got a bad MAF because the sensor goes nuts. Requiring you to unplug MAF to keep your motor running. MAFsensors are calibrated to there housing so you need the housing for it to work correctly. I used a MAF adapter and worked awesome for me. no check engine light and was able to actually keep my sensor.
If you're in CA and the intake does not have a C.A.R.B. sticker, then yes your car will fail the visual inspection. Thanks for watching!
you can make a custom intake from the turbo to outside. And as long as it doesn't restrict the air flow on the turbo it is better. I seen people loose power by adding one. And others add power by adding it. It honestly all depends on the placement of it.
The increase in horsepower and torque all depends on the quality and performance of the stock intake. some high end cars are already fitted with OEM performance intakes and thus installing such aftermarket parts will offer little to no performance increase, but if it s a lower-end car with a cheap simple airbox, it can easily gain you 10-15 whp. It did on my Corolla for sure as I dyno tested it before and after.
In our experience, air intake kits can actually help your MPGs a bit, although it does depend on the vehicle. Check out what we have from Injen and K&N. Thanks!
We really like the Injen intakes for the 1.6L Sentras. Thanks for watching!
One thing you forgot to mention, even though there is probably someone who has said this, is the environment your in. My Injen Intake has been both CAI & SRI. It's SRI now because where I am it rains heavily. keep in my your enviornment:
Lot Of Rain: SRI
Sunny alot or not much rain: CAI
Both of SRI & CAI have Pros and Cons, so choose wisely and think of the possibilities and scenarios that might happen.
I haven't seen their test but I can tell you from being at the dyno that filters make difference. No filter on my car is good for around 20 hp vs a high flow model.
Some kits offer the option of having piping for both setups, or you can just buy two different kits. You'll have to make sure that if you're switching around piping that all of your sensors are in the right spot.
love those intake because it gives a nice sound to the car..life is too short to drive boring cars..
I bought an Air Raid CAI mainly for the sound and because it was an easy to do myself type mod... Im going to the track tonight for the first time with it, and my new wheels on. Ran 13.7@103.1 will see if I can run faster with the Air Raid and new wheel and tire mods...
definitely not a stupid question, K&N states that you should probably check your CAI during the winter months because of the possibility of slush/water getting in your air intake, just check/clean every so often during the winter months. Very rare occurrence, but has happened, I have a CAI on my durango and seems to be fine still.
would a cai even make a difference in places that are 100+ degrees outside? all of that work just to bring hot air in seems expensive for no reason.
So, if I want better MPG would it be advantageous to have warm air intake? Hmm
I run a CAI in my Lightning and a SRI on my focus. Focus is low and can suck in rain if I were running a CAI because the filters are located behind the bumper. With the SRI I dont worry about rain
Very nice explanations. Thanks a bunch.
Really really great vidoes! Would be really good if you could make a video for turbos, and maybe even an install? I love it
A ram air intake will add bottom end power by forcing more air through the inatke because the is almost no resistance slowing the air through such a short tube. Cold air intakes bring colder denser air into the engine that gives more power through mid to high rpms.
Stay tuned.
What about short ram intakes with a heat shield better than just expsed to engine right?
I got a short ram and then created my own air ducting to provide it with a direct air feed, a simple solution to save you money.
I don't really see where people are coming from with these negative reviews of SRI's. I have a 2015 Mazda 3 with the 2.0 which makes 155 HP and 150 lb-ft stock at the crank. With drivetrain loss, It made 132 HP and 128 lb-ft at the wheels. After installing a SRI from Corksport, I ran it again on the dyno and it was making 136 HP and 134 lb-ft at the wheels. While not a huge increase, it was still an increase nonetheless and I also feel slightly improved throttle response. On top of that, it was only 1 HP less then they claimed it would make and the lb-ft rating was spot on. Sometimes it just depends on if your buying a quality intake designed for the car, or a cheap Ebay intake that's "one size fits all." Do your research before you buy.
Short ram with an air duct through the bumper🤫 benefits of both, but better
Unless it's a significant amount of snow, you shouldn't be too worried. Besides, the filter is there for a reason (which helps avoid sucking up large amounts of snow) A little water spatter won't matter, since it will just likely stick to the sides of the tubing or your intake manifold anyway.
But is a short ram intake still better than the stock air filter?
CAI are nice to have but you most be aware of things like deep puddles of water or heavy rain b/c there is choice with a CAI do to the fact that the air filter is on the outside that water enter into you engine via the intake system and cause what is called hydrolock
That's trueee I had bought a Aem Cold Air intake for my Del Sol and dyno tuned it with all the other performance parts that I put onto it and then someone told me to put a K&n intake and I took it to the dyno it made the samee power
More power more fuel, it's that simple. My rotary making say 400 HP uses about the same ratio as any other 400 hp engine. Sure turbo engines use some of the fuel to cool the charge but it's still inline.
In my opinion, based on what I understand about air/fuel-delivery, cold-air intakes (really just cold-air air-cleaners) would only make a significant difference on a road-racing car where at peak temperatures the incoming air-charge is a little more dense do to being cooler than without it. It's never bad to have cool air coming in, but don't expect to improve E.T.'s simply because of the addition of such a product.
Very nice clean video keep it up... Im checking your website now, might do some shopping lol
Some, but not all factory intakes are restrictive.
Many modern cars have very efficient intake systems.
For example discarding a stock Helmholtz resonator chamber will cause a loss in low end torque.
Stop fighting over hp, on paper cars don't always add up. Easier air flow means quicker response. Colder air moving (since the air gets 'sucked' in like a wind while the car moves) may pass easier into the cylinder and even push the combustion force out quicker. People say it works, just cause one equation doesn't change doesn't mean it cant work.
Ive been tinkering with cars for the past 10 years and whoever says SRI and CAI don't increase any power is full of shit. They both do. Also remember during dyno test the car is stationary and is not subjected to ram effect. Results may vary on road vs dyno. However like the man said, both has advantages and disadvantages. Short ram intakes generally give you alot better response during low rpm acceleration but can be a real bitch during hot and humid weather and afternoons, but during the night, when the temperature drops, they really start to perform and significant increases have been proven especially for turbo charged engines fitted with front mounted intercoolers. Cold air intakes on the other hand provide better power on the higher side of the rpm range, this is due to the length of the intake tubing but you must find a correctly tuned length and diameter intake tubing for your motor. Excessive intake tube length will cause massive lag in response during low rpms.
To summarise all comments:
1. CAI should give you a little more bang for buck especially over the top end. SRI don't do a hell of a lot because air is still same temp going in as it is with the OEM setup.
2. If a SRI was really that much better the Manufacturer would have put it in to begin with. The stock intake has been specifically designed by engineers for that vehicle so unless you're gonna go big with a CAI kit don't bother....
3. One thing SRI does do is produce a pretty sexy little engine sound aaand it'll look cool to your non-car mates when you pop the hood and they see a big shiny filter staring back at them.
4. Oh and if you do install a CAI, no more gunning it through the puddles on rainy days unless you want water in the engine.
Got it.
Cold hair has better combustion. Its science. More combustion = better power output. Higher octane fuel also has better combustion, that's why they use it in race cars or jets, its made for engines that can or need to run it. Both of them together make for a pretty good increase in horsepower. Also having them may increase your fuel economy due to the fact your engine doesn't have to work as hard to get the power it needs for someone that has a heavy foot. Its all just really healthy for your engine in general.
Essentially, short ram intake is a short "less restrictive" pipe, compared to stock airboxes that sits under the hood, near by the engine *in fact, warm air intakes (SRI) give you more MPG...fact*.
A Cold air intake's pipe runs down to the fender well (runs towards the bottom of the car) to suck in colder outside air as opposed to engine-warmed air.
And yes, it's cheaper to get an SRI.
Interesting, but you forgot to mention the fuel-economy penalty which can occur from adding more air into they system with a less restrictive filter.
Where is this guy getting at that they're cheaper? I can't even find a SRI and when I do it's the same price if not more expensive than a CAI.
CAI is so much better for your engine, keep in mind if you plan to drive your car hard a CAI can help stop your engine from overheating.... the key word there is help. As a final note you will see a much more noticable difference in power where as a SRI might not even give you an increase
I've had K&N short ram 69 series and Mopar CAI on my Charger R/T. K&N has been the better of 2 when it comes to looks, sound and power. Its Heat shield and aluminum pipe more than make up for any advantage CAI might've otherwise had.
@peacerob12345 if the cold air intake system sucks up water, it will hydrolock the engine. Seeing as Honda has been making the engine bays in Civics a lot smaller than the 90s civics, you'd probably want a cold air intake. What I recommend is install your cold air intake system, but throw a hydro shield over the filter to prevent water from being sucked up. Hope this helps.
I built a cold air kit for my 2010 Ford Fusion for $80 including filter
that's true but a cold air system will give you greater potential gains than a short ram, a SRI is just less restrictive, a CAI is less restrictive and delivers even more air due to it being more dense.
Air filters(and their configuration) will never increase performance.
Just change your stock filter as often as you should and invest in something more useful.
the difference is where you decide to mount the filter. you could just buy a filter and some piping and do it yourself for a lot cheaper than getting a kit.
We actually have a lot of great options for your car, such as AEM, Injen, K&N, DC Sports, and even more. Take a look at our site and check out what we have, and we're sure you'll find something that meets your needs, style, and budget!
What about a dual cone filter? In South Africa we usually go for the dual cone filter of even a replacement filter from K&N that fits in your standard air box
I been used kn intake filter for my car about 2 years Igot great performance + Eco fuel
How much horse power are we talking about? I have a 2006 Mazda 6 4cl... Thanks great video!
Hello Mr Andy. I am a fan of yours and I really paying my whole attention to your infos..
Iam from the middle east specifically from Oman.. as u know in summer time it is so hot. Temps reach 50c, and most of the summer days reach 38-48c..
I own an INFINITI G37 sedan 2010, I already installed Stillen Gen3 cold intakes..
what's ur expert opinion regarding the stillen intakes in such hot climate..
thank you so much
Its the same am out of Hp neither is "Greater" than the other. Just make sure you install the Ram or Intake correctly in order for it to be effective.
Could you make a video on the installation on one of the intake systems?
Generally speaking, most cars stock intake is engineered great (well, in the past decade or so). CAI draws and stabilizes the air (most do), which is far superior to a short ram which draws in hot air from the engine bay. It all depends on the car, but for a large amount of the situations, a short ram only produces more noise, but not any performance gain. CAI's are much better.
Yes but one disadvantage. Like mine is its a daily. I live where it rains if that intake sucks in a puddle of water. Hydro locks your motor and it will need to be swapped
the cold air intakes are always going to be better... it comes down to simple physics, since air molecules condense under colder conditions by putting on a Cold air intake you are essentially feeding more air into the engine as opposed to a short ram... cant say there is a tremendous difference but hey, every bit of power helps... right?
So the main difference is just the SRI doesnt really bring in cold air but the CAI has special tubing to bring in that cold air? If so im just gonna buy the short ram. cheaper/
I noticed that throughout this video you keep claiming that different filter set up/cold air intakes actually produce more horsepower, however they don't. Mightycarmods have done 2 videos on it, one about pod filters and one about cold air intakes. The pod filter made less horsepower and the cold air intake made no difference.
Thanks! We will be doing videos on exhausts and headers in the not-too-distant future, so please subscribe to our channel to be alerted when those videos are uploaded.
awesome... i don't mean to bash but which do you think would be best. I've heard the rumors of cai maybe bring in water on rainy seasons. i live in texas so weather isn't predictable.
I don't see what the point of running a CAI in my boosted car since the air just gets hot again once it hits the turbo and cools again when it runs through the intercoolers, i just run a short ram and have noticed a slight gain in power,straight pipe helped too
The way be explains CAI, sounds like you lose MPG
My MPG increased.
is it possible to show some testing data, with the stock filter and the cold air intake, because I am not sure about the power gains that the kits tell. you are just telling that the system gives more power, but i am not seeing any proof.
Well if your car has a MASS AIR FLOW censor and you install any of these that means more air will go to your engine, and the sensor will read the amount it goes through, and according to that it will ad more fuel, which gives you more power and less miles to the gallon, but its worth it xD
MightyCarMods showed on dyno that you even lose HP using these intakes on NA engine.
Which will give a better MPG?