Excellent troubleshooting technique and clean delivery/presentation. Like you said, most people would think that it is the Power board. However, you tested the power board by explaining the pins and their voltage table printed on the board. Also pointed out to the LED lit up once I/O board was disconnected from the Power board confirming that the Power board is OK. Not only that you showed what numbers to look for when ordering the I/O or Main board, which is very important to me. Thank you very much for your time in recording, presenting and sharing. I liked it. Congratulations!!! I will look forward for your other videos.
Just had the same problem with my 43” Samsung. Standby light on but no image or sound. Ordered both the I/O and power supply board. Turned out to be the power supply board. Back in commission. Thanks for the upload!
Great video! speaks clearly, explains how to check the voltage, and most importantly doesn't give a 30 min introduction or "unboxing" of the product like so many other videos out there. Thanks!
Just bought a Samsung 65" .. 7100 series .. possibly as old as 2013. Bought at auction for less than $100 .. got it home and plugged in .. black screen. Standby light is on, blinking. Watched 3 different videos this evening on how to possibly troubleshoot and fix. Your video right here may get me to where I want to be. Will try removing back cover and 'testing' the board(s) tomorrow. Will come back and report here if successful using your methodology. Thank you for your video to help me get started.
Thank you so much! I was following along and when I went to check the power side my meter would fluctuate and the lights for screen would flicker on and off. Turns out it was the power board. $34 later TV was fixed, got my part ShopJimmy. Thanks again.
What are the odds, the first video and it's my exact tv and super easy fix. Thank you for making this video, I've fixed old school hd tvs where the caps on the power side were usually the culprit so it's nice to have someone who knows what they are doing make it easier.
I have the same TV too. After watching, following the troubleshooting process and finding the same results... A new circuit board (after waiting several months for one to be in stock) has fixed my problem. Thanks for the great video!
My less than 2 y.o. Samsung started flashing the actual screen as well as the red light. And so I don't have the tools you have but since you were able to purchase both components together inexpensively, couldn't I simply replace both with minimal toolage and hope for the best? Although you didn't show how easy or difficult the "power" component would be to replace.🤔😃 The thought of buying another tv only to have it do this again, while also adding more electronic crap to a landfill is not making me smile 😶
My LG 55 Curve OLED has same issue. It works for approx 30 secs then switches off. After watching this informative video I have a much better understanding. Thank you!
Thanks for posting this video. Its just helped me in repairing my own Samsung 55" Curve, UE55MU6500U, Costing me £50 for a refurbished PCB in the UK. Kind Regards
I have the same TV only a smaller size, bought at the same time (about 5 years old) with the same problem (solid red light.) And got the same quote to fix it - $500. Haven't opened it yet to analyze. Not sure how reliable Samsung is with so many people with the same problem. Thanks for uploading.
I don't think it is a Samsung thing per se as the same thing could happen to any TV. Looking at the board design, I don't see anything that I would consider a bad design. Hot components had heatsinks, I didn't see stuff clustered together, routing looked fine. Basically it looked like a normal PCB and I'm betting that an LG, Phillips and other brands would look similar if I tore into one.
This is exactly what my TV did. I don't know if I had sound or not. I can see the power indicator light or red stand by light. Turned off all lights in my room with the TV on and I'm not seeing any lights threw any holes or anything in the back of the TV. So it sounds like a bad power board. I'll know more when I get it apart. Thank you for your video. You made it all look pretty easy.
Richard, was it the Power Supply board? Did you ever end up getting it fixed. I too dont see any backlighting but I get an intermittent standby light flashing when powering on.
@@portugeeguy25 I junked it. Was the power board but there are 3 or 4 numbers you need to match up to get the right board. Every board I found did not match up. Mine had 2 small compasitors and 1 large one. The other boards replaced that large one with 2 smaller ones. ???
@@richardclark9609 I believe my issue too is the power board, i ordered the same model number board so I should be good, but we'll see. if not the power board it might be the actual LED strips, if thats the case I too will junk my old unit due to not wanting to deal with the aggravation of fixing it.
Good video. My 5 year old Samsung 55 inch shows the red power light on but black screen persists. If I play with the remote long enough (sometimes pushing the on button, unplugging the set for 5 minutes or so, plugging back in and pushing remote on button many many times) it will eventually power up and the tv works just fine, until I turn it off and the whole process starts over again. It's not a smart tv so it may not be worth spending $100 on to fix when I can get a new Hisence (may not be spelled right) smart tv for under $500 bucks . Hate to throw this tv out when I know it works though.
Nicely and clearly done video. My TV dead few days ago and it's has the same symptoms like yours. I'm hoping I can fix it. Thanks for the very informative video.
Our year old 75 inch Samsung and our WiFi box quit after lightening hit our house in Switzerland. Easily replaced the WiFi but think our TV is toast. I could try doing your fix but would probably ground myself in the process:) Excellent video though.
All would do well to see how a most informative and articulate video can be provided. I fix all that breaks, because of Post 2008 finances, that force me. Really, I love doing all types of Repairs, But this is not my forte. Now, I:m confident, with your fine tutelage, that my 65" Samsung will recover By my hands!. Take Care! Lee, FL
I have the samsung qled 8k purchased three years ago purchased the 5 year warranty. Last week was watching The View abruptly there was several q squared pixelation then turned off. Tried the little troubleshooting steps to no avail. However, I would say I still have power to the tv but won't turn on. By watching your video enlightened me to believe its the same issue at the IO board went bad considering that my power board is on electrical currently passes through the tv since the standby light is on.
Thanks for the troubleshooting steps, it surely helped. Had the same on a 24" samsung monitor with a solid red. After spending time diagnosing, it pointed to the main board. Ordered one and installed it, now the red light keeps flashing, does not power on. Time to keep troubleshooting...
Best of luck. Please share your findings if you figure out what the problem is. Sounds like you made some progress though moving from a solid to blinking light.
Yes I have a question. Can you come to my house? I bought a 50 inch TV for $10 at a garage sale and it doesn’t work red light comes on but that’s it. Straightforward video! I learned something today! Thanks
Glad you enjoyed the video. Hope it helps you fix your TV. As for the house call, unfortunately you are out of my service area (aka, my kitchen counter). LOL
5:44 My TV will also turn on the LEDs when I unplug the main board from the Power supply - but I can see one capacitor on the powersupply blown out. Should I replace only the Power supply or both Power supply and Main board ?
I bought a kid with both boards so I had that option if needed. Were it me, I would start with the power board and see if that fixes it. If not, then swap the mainboard as well.
Keep in mind Capacitors don't always blow out when they go bad, they can just develop high resistance and dry out but not blow out. The VISUAL INSPECTION thing is both a necessary thing to do but is also a beginner step and even though it is used by pro's it should never be your only method of troubleshooting capacitors. You want to be using and ESR meter to work it out properly In your case, you don't need to worry about the Power Board. You see When you have it all plugged in, YOU HAVE NO POWER AND NO BACKLIGHT then you unplug the connecting cable from the Power board to the Logic board THE RESULT IS... YOUR BACKLIGHTS COME ON That means the logic board has a short circuit on the power rails preventing the power from turning on. Simply Put... Faulty Logic Board If you work the statistics, it's highly likely , Only your Logic board is faulty, I would be replacing only that first. as for your capacitors. You should get an ESR tester and test all the capacitors in that area or... if you don't have one Replace all the capacitors in that area just for good measure. See if you get the backlight again, with Only the power supply on With Only the cable going to the LED Panel connected BUT NOT THE CABLE TO THE LOGIC BOARD, Keep that unplugged if still you get backlight but not picture on the TV and you still get no backlight when you plug in the logic board .... Replace the logic board
Are you responding to questions on this video still? I have a 75 inch Visio that went out last night. Half of the screen turned A pinkish white color or whatever color and the other half of the screen remained working. I turned it off and then back on but the screen never came back on. The audio continue to work but not the video. Any suggestions?
Hi I have a LED 40'' Bush TV with built in DVD player. The standby light comes on but when you go to switch it on the blue power light comes on then quickly goes off again and goes back to red standby so TV does not come on. There is a lead from a white socket connector from the board that runs to the standby switch mount then across to the standby light with another connector. So could this be a problem again with AV- board as it looks like the only board it has besides the DVD board. I'm looking to replace the whole board for a new one, I'm only looking for a brief outline of a probable cause, so any advice will be very much appreciated, . . thanks
Sorry, I've not run into that before so I've not tried that repair. Basically, I work on my own stuff that breaks and if it seems like an interesting video idea, I turn it into a YT tutorial.
This was a very good video, on how to DIY, an electronic repair, using basic electrical and troubleshooting skills to arrive at a possible determination. That being the computer board, and finding by researching a good value on both the power in and power out boards. Kudos for the good video!
Great video.....I have a Samsung 75" Q70R and it went black screen while watching a movie, it flashed blue every 20 seconds, I have some knowledge in electronics so I opened it to see if it had bad capacitors. With the TV energized, I disconnected the ribon cable that goes to the main board and the screen turned blue, so I assumed it was not the damaged screen, I have been looking on ebay and I have found the original power supply parts, do you think that replacing the board will solve the problem?...thanks
Great work and you fixed it! We live in a disposable society these days and because of that more waste and garbage is produced. I am one who'd rather fix things than throw it away. 👍👍
I am getting the same voltage reading as you did but the led light do not turn on when I disconnect the cable from the main board. Is there a way to check if the led lights are functional? My power supply board seems fine as it gives the right voltage and not visual damage
That could be the T-conn board as the drivers for the LED should be part of that board. I did not disassemble the TV enough to show that board but it should be near the bottom center of the TV. You might need to dig a bit further to get to that board. That is where I would look next.
I have an LG TV 55UK5600aua I can't find any information on any videos on UA-cam I have a standby lite, white screen when I turn it on. TV shuts off after about 20 minutes. I also cannot find T-com board, where would it be located?
I'm not familiar with that specific TV so I couldn't be positive. However, the design and layout is probably similar to how mine is...if you look at the ribbon cables, you will probably have one that runs from the power board to the I/O board and then another that runs from the I/O board to the T Con board.
EXCELLENT video ! Only one question, wear rubber gloves, or not...too bulky ?! Of course stay away from incoming cord un reduced by board or capasitors that could hold charge ... but otherwise rest is low voltage. And you mentioned you grounded the tv prior to testing...grounded to WHAT ?! Have a samsung 50 inch going blue to black, got it going by draining power for over two minutes, but weeks after she did it again just watching it !! 3 years old, Have a Sony 25 inch tube 35 years old still running !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hello, thank you for the video it is pretty straightforward. my Samsung ue48h5273ss is not loading. Once I put it on, I can see the backlight come on but it is not loading to show me the start up menu. kindly help?
Excellent video! I am having almost the exact same issues with my Panasonic TC-39AS530U. TV turns on, screen flickers 3 times (I can see the LED lights flickering in the back), then I get a blank screen with 1 LED flicker (error code 1 I assume) then just a slowly blinking red LED. There is no sound and I can't turn it off with the remote. I have to press and hold the power button on the side of the unit or unplug it to turn it off. I have tested my power supply board. ALL 3 test points (standby, LED driver, and main board) maintain voltage when it goes from power on to blinking light. However, the pins on the connector for the main board and driver board go from 16V and 24V respectively down to 0 when the light starts to blink. There are 3 test points on the main board, 5.3V, 12V, and 15V. The 5.3V (standby) maintains voltage when it goes from power on to blinking light, the other two do not, they go to 0. Would that, along with voltages being maintained on the power supply board, indicate that this main board is bad? I really hope that is the case as I do not want to get into replacing LED strips. Thanks and keep up the great work! P.S. I have put in new power supply and T-con boards and the problem continues.
are there any error codes online that might corelate to the blinking LED? I am wondering if they are blinking a pattern that it might be an error code.
@@RoughRidersTV After it flickers 3 times trying to turn on it blinks once...error code 1, then after a couple of seconds just a slow steady continuous blinking. I've replaced the power supply, main, and T-con boards so it looks as if I have some burnt out LED's. Your thoughts?
What’s makes the IO board go out? We bought a brand new Samsun tv 11 days ago. Wont power on. We tried all the troubleshooting we could find online. Indicator light is on but nothing happens when I press the power button on the tv or the remote.
If you bought it brand new and it failed after 11 days, I would take it back as it is still under warranty. As for what could make it fail, could be a lot of different things. Power surge, dust (which carries a lot of static electricity by the way), bad resistor or capacitor on the board, faulty connections on the board, excessive heat something could have happened during shipping that cracked solder connection. It really could be a number of different possibilities. Some times, stuff just happens...it's very rare for something to fail that fast but not impossible as you found out.
Awesome, sir. I just replaced the tv with a monitor, although now I'm wondering if I should seek to do what you did. But after seeing how much you paid for the extra board...I might as well just get another TV for about the same price! The TV I'm watching this video on is the same model you just fixed.🤣Nice video anyway.
The cost of TVs continue to drop so it is approaching a point where that is a good question to ask. A 65" display in my area is still $400+ dollars vs the $90 I spent on the kit. So for me, it still made sense to swap the boards vs buy new. But I hear ya, sometimes it's just not worth the effort.
I was surprised you didn't record the voltages on the bad board before you replaced it. That way you could T/S the bad board and possibly repair it. Just my thoughts on having a spare board.
ON MY POWER SUPPLY UNDER IT IT HAS NON CONDUCTIVE PAPER THAT HAS PLASTIC RIVET HOLDING IT UNDER THE CIRCUIT BOARD IS THERE ANY SPECIAL WAY TO REMOVE THE PLASTIC RIVETS OR HAVE SEEN THEM THANK YOU
I haven't seen them. I would expect if they are riveted that you would need to snap the rivet and replace it when re-installing. However, do you need to remove the paper as part of the repair? Can you work around it?
You are welcome. Mine failed just over a year and out of warranty. Too expensive to not do something about it but too expensive to have a repair guy come out so figured I would take a crack at it.
Hi Rough, I opened my TV and inspected the power board for burn marks, bulged capacitors etc. and everything looks OK, I unplugged the connector like you did but on the power board side (not the logic/main board like you did) and the LEDs lit up so nothing wrong with the LEDs and power is getting to them. However, I don't have a multimeter to test output to the logic board. Nothing looks wrong with the logic/main board (no burn marks). Should I go ahead and order a new logic/main board ($92) and try that first and then order a power board ($20-38) if that doesn't solve it? Just curious, do you have any idea what might have caused your problem in the first place? I'm not sure but there's a chance adding a new HDMI connected Amazon Firestick 4K Max a month ago might have screwed things up on my main board because when I briefly got it to work for a second the screen went on and displayed on top "HDMI not connected" even though it was.
You can get a basic multimeter from Home Depot or Lowes for about $15. I don't know if they offer them as tool rentals but might be worth asking. It really helps avoid random swaps to find the problem. I did order both boards as a kit so that if one didn't work I could try the other. As to what could cause it? Heat and dust are 2 big issues for electronics. Dust carries static electricity that can cause components to short out. Heat can damage ICs over time...As it is, the TV already gets warm so adding heat from say an enclosed cabinet or mounting over a fireplace makes it that much harder to keep components cool. However, sometimes, components just fail with no real external cause. Hope that helps.
@@RoughRidersTV Hi, so I went ahead and ordered the main board without testing with a multimeter (BTW, I heard some libraries rent out multimeters and watt usage monitors). I installed it today, just like you did - the hardest part was getting all the cables out, and my TV is back!!! Now, upon inspecting the old board once removed from the TV I noticed what could possibly be the problem which wasn't apparent when it was installed. I realized the 2 bolted pins on the left (where the A/V connections are) that fasten the black metal heat sink plate to the processor were completely loose and not making contact with the processor (at least a 2 mm gap) or the 3 "n" shaped possibly sensors/contacts/spacers(?) near the bolts. This could be the culprit. The only way to find out is to fix it, reinstall and test. But it would require a shop as I don't have the tools. But it would've been a cheaper option than ordering a new board ($83). Unfortunately, my internet search gave me no clue that this could be something to check. Maybe somebody reading this might consider checking this. If it is the problem, it's a simple fix - the spring loaded bolts need to be refastened securely. Anyway, thanks a lot for your help, really appreciate it.
@@nGAhGENVH0Ul If the heatsink was not making contact with the chip, that could very well be the source. The chip overheated and most likely failed. Prolonged overheating on the chip will kill it so reinstalling the heatsink would probably not do anything. Glad your TV is back up though, congrats.
@@RoughRidersTV I hadn't considered the processor might have fried. Could be I suppose. Could it be poor design that the pins came loose? The rivets on the back don't look wide enough. I took photos but I can't post them here. Thanks again Rough.
i have question my tv comes on only after i unplug and plug it becomes very annoying. i do get led light i have try other plugs same condition what you recommend
hard to say but sounds like a chip went bad on the I/O board. It's almost like it gets stuck in a logic state that is not clearing until power is completely removed...sorta like being stuck in standby. Removing the plug, removes all power so it is no longer in a low power state and ready to come back on quickly...removing that power forces it to reboot and clear all previous states. Were it me, I would try to find an i/o board for cheap and swap it and see if that clears the issue.
Samsung UN75H7150AFXZA stopped working after a power anomaly. no standby light, does not come on with power button or remote. power supply board output voltages seem to be okay When I disconnect the power to main board cable, back light comes on. very similar to this video. interested in hearing your thoughts/suggestions?
I have a Sony Bravia D It blinks red 6 times each cycle...a shop tells me Sony does not make the parts any more.....The set was purchases new 8/28/16, Any suggestions. Thank you. Les
I would go through the steps to see if you can determine whether the power board or i/o board is out. Once you know that, search online for the part number of the board. You can probably find boards out of reclaimed sets that will work. That is what I bought at Shop Jimmy's.
I thought the other pins besides your standby would be zero until the tv was told to turn on? On my tv all of my pins are reading zero besides standby voltage, and they all go to the correct voltage when I jumper the standby to the on/off pin. I’m not sure if I am thinking of this wrong. Thanks for any info you could provide.
Once you apply power to the system, the chip driving those pins will go to their known starting state. Without the datasheet, I don't know what that state is. The voltages should be on that table printed on the board but I don't recall what they are. However, most are don't care because there are only a couple that you care about when determining if the board is getting power.
Thanks for the vídeo. I think my tv has same issue. I measure the power delivery from the power board and everything looks good. (Also LEDs goes on without the i/o card as yours) Searching for I/O card replacement. Saludos desde México.
At the 8:50 mark, I show where I found the part number on my board. Then I just searched for that part number online. From there, I just verify that the boards appear the same and that is what I ordered.
The cost of TVs are coming down and you can land some great deals on a black friday or big sale. But for $90.00, figured it was worth a shot and trying to fix.
I have a tv that the standby light blinks 7 times. Indication that the PS board was good so I replaced the Main board and it still does the same thing? Suggestions appreciated.
could possibly be the T Comm board but not sure. Without schematics and/or datasheets and the set in front of me, not sure where the exact issue might be. While I am an electronic engineer, I am not a TV repair guy...I just dug in and started measuring stuff in an effort to troubleshoot the issue.
I have the same issue with my oled c8 and its been checked by lg technician and I'm asked to go for screen replacement which cost 1000 dollars' feel like they just wanna take the money cuz I don't see any sign of burn in tho,any suggestion?thank you
Probably the faulty parts in the main board are the mosfets or smd capacitors, using your dmm in the continuity mode would do the work. Thanks for sharing the video.
My Samsung 55" flat screen stop working. I have a standby light,but want do anything else. I replaced the power board still nothing. No back lights or picture. I removed the ribbon from the other board and back lights come on. IS THAT BOARD BAD?
Did you go through the troubleshooting steps that I outlined in the video? It should help you determine if it is the main I/O board or the power board. I thought mine was going to be the power board but it turned out to be the I/O board that failed.
Very brief and complete. Awsome . When i plug in my tv (after being un plugged for few minutes) a white led light blinks on for a couple of seconds and then nothing happens. Ive checked everything like remote control batteries and all is fine. Tried to power on from the tv box too, nothing happens. The tv is directly connected to wall. Please help me understand the problem and how to solve it. Many thanks!
ΣDM LӨVΣЯ whenever you are dealing with digital circuits like this, you always measure the DC voltage, not AC. AC is strictly when dealing with power outlets, etc. I know it was quick but I showed the setting right about the 6min mark in the video.
@@RoughRidersTV Thank you very much for replying and I've just find out mine power cable pin(on the power board)(2 pin 13v) that should have 13v but instead it's just maxed out to 5.3v and the other one is 4.7 also there are 3 pin that should be 5v but all 3 of them instead getting less than 2v. Could this mean that my power board is faulty and I should replace the power board? Mine TV problem is exactly like yours and it's 8 years old TV.
@@OJtheOZ Sounds like your power board is bad then as it does not appear to be delivering enough voltage. It could be something as simple as a loose resistor or cap or something like a bad voltage regulator. However, you can replace the entire board for about $100.00.
What if Your screen is just dark but you can see tv programming. I checked the settings and everything is set correctly. I can hear and see the picture everything is dark. What could it be the LED strips?
It could be as simple as a connector or more complex like the T-Con board went bad or the panel LED went out. If the entire screen is dark, my first thought is that the LEDs are not getting power to them because if they were, at least some of the LEDs would light up. It's just one of those, work your way back from the LEDs to see where the problem is coming in.
GM sir, my LED 32" tv no picture no sound no back light. just standby light blink once and off there is no working any parts. But my tv combo board current flow any components correctly. What is a proble
Could be a number of things. I would suggest starting with checking the power rails as I did in the video. If the power board is good, then it is probably the I/O board or the T-Con board.
In theory, their troubleshooting experience should be worth it, but if the price to just replace the power & controller board is cheap enough and DIY-able... but the screen itself or other stuff could be broken... decisions, decisions
Hard to say what the repair cost will be. It all depends on the shop, what they find and the parts/labor involved to fix. Flat panel TVs are not all that complex and actually quite a bit easier than the old CRT/Tube TVs to repair as they are much more modular. Swapping out a failing PCB is simple, it's diagnosing the problem that can be tricky. It could be as easy as a cable or board or something a bit deeper into the panel. That combined with the falling prices of flat panels themselves sometimes makes it easier to just replace the TV.
I don't know. Have you checked the board markings to see if it tells you what voltage you should be measuring. Mine had a box that stated the correct voltage on each pin. In my case, the voltages measured were very close the voltages stated on the board.
@@vitopiro447 That is a pretty low swing. If it were I, I would look over the rest of the board and see if there are any obvious components that failed (capacitors, voltage regulators, resistors, etc.). If so, then you could try to replace the failing component. If that might be too much, then replacing the entire board would be the next option.
@@RoughRidersTV all looks good but I will try to replace the board I found one cheep. Thank you so much for your help and I learned a lot on your video.
HELP once in a while, my TOSHIBA 37AV502U would not coming on and make a loud screeching ,beeping, code like sounds. i would unplug it and plug it in a few times and it would work fine. but this started happening a lot so i just left it on. this was fine for months and months, but we lost power and it was off for days and i couldn't get it back on. yesterday i took it apart, vacuumed it out to look for obvious thing i could fix.[ i fix a lot of things and other TV's that way] i did the power button and the plug thing and it came on after many tries with just the loud noises. i thought maybe it was loss wire syndrome,LOL, but now it's just screeching. any idea's?
I can't think of anything that would be causing screeching sounds from the PCB. I suppose a blown cap or something might make a noise but those tend to pop and smoke and then go out, not make screeching noises. However, I would start looking at the power rails first and to see if they are in spec, just as I did in the video.
now its back on. lol. seems like if i leave it on for a while, after the screeching modem sounds . i can turn it off ,then on , and get it to come on. I'll take the boards out and inspect a little closer. thanks. oh. one more thing. the green light comes on, but does not have the red light after off and still plugged in.
@@immrnoidall Toshiba may be doing something different for standby than Samsung. My TV does not have any green LED on it. So, not really sure what, if anything that means since I don't have that TV.
I have a 32' TCL tv the power light comes on but i have to press the power button a few times to get anything on the screen, i don't have a remote, is there anything i can do to solve this problem.
I have a 55"TCL Roku TV I can see the screen is on but I can hardly see what what's on the screen.it flashes for a second then it goes dark..I don't have the remote so I can't reset it... what would you do in this situation
Could be a few things. Could be the T-Con board, LED driver chip, bad cable, failing power board not driving enough power to the LEDs, etc. Hard to say without schematics and the proper troubleshooting tools.
I know it’s been 2 years but this is what’s happening to my daughter tv 65”. My question is what’s the name of the device you used to test the voltage. So i can buy one.
I have a TCL 49 TV with similar symptoms. Thanks for the break down on measuring voltages from power board to main board to decide what is bad.That is the step I am at now. PS I would stay away from TCL tvs terrible customer support. TV had almost no use but was out of warranty.
Greetings, Thanks for the Vid. I have a HiSense 55" Roku TV It shut off the other day and would not turn back on. The standby light turns on when plugged in then dims and flashes once goes black for a couple seconds this sequence repeats continuously. I replaced the power board. Same issue. I measured the power from the USB port and the USB power seems to cycle with the light sequence. as if the TV is rebooting. Any ideas ?
Sounds like a short somewhere. In a completely unrelated product, I ran into a reboot issue...not saying this is what is happening with you but it just came to mind. I had a customer once that had a PC connected to the same outlet they had a refrigerator plugged into. Whenever the fridge compressor kicked on, the PC would reboot because the fridge was pulling too much current from the line. Took me a while to figure that one out. Reboots can happen with the power line swings low and drops below 5V DC triggering a reboot. Similarly in an AC system, if the power slips out of phase (like in a brown out) or Vrms drops, you could get a reboot. However, that doesn't sound like what is going on with your system. If your I/O board is experiencing a short, some chips (like your USB) may still be getting power but other logic circuits may not be. This is all just a guess because I would really need the board and the proper tools and documentation to really diagnose the problem.
I’m having a problem with a Samsung DLP HLT-T6189S. If I keep turning power on, it flashes green, then it stops, but the screen won’t light up. Repeat this a dozen times and I can finally get it to light up. It’s taking longer and longer for that trick to work. I may be doing what you just showed me
I have an issue with my 49 inch Samsung LCD...when I plug it in, it only flash a red light and turn completely off. May I ask what could be the specific board in question?
Very good........simple and understanding. Can I order parts for flat tv screen from you if I provide you all information like brand name, model number and extra ?
Sorry, can't help you. I'm not a shop or repair center. I'm just a guy that had a TV that broke so I tore it apart to try and figure out what was wrong. I recorded the video to show what I did to fix my TV.
@@boraingtabe5237 If you exchange the whole pcb , just look for numbers on the pcb, stamped on the side of a pcb, with ie number and V1.2 or the like.Many tv's have the same or different pcb's even from same brands. So looking at the brand of tv or type is often not enough. Look via search engine, repairing the components or resistors is often udoable,because they are so small,chances are slim it will work.
What if the standby light isn’t on and the tv doesn’t power up? The only thing I’m getting is a static sound coming from the back letting me know it’s plugged in
I would suggest still following the steps. It's more than likely 1 of the 2 boards that is the problem. With schematics and an O Scope, you could dive in deeper to find the exact failing component but it's easier just to swap out a board that is failing as that is pretty much what a tech would do when they show up at your house.
If you get the blinking light but the tv won’t start then try a hard factory reset first. For Sharp brand tvs you unplug the tv and then hold down the vol - and input button while plugging tv power plug back in to wall. Hold the two buttons until you get a fuzzy screen. Then unplug tv again and hold down power and input button at same time while plugging back into wall. Now you will be in factory reset menu. Fill out and then save and restart tv. You might be able to skip the last step after you get snowy screen by turning off and then turning on tv and going to channel 3.
I think it depends on how old the TV is. A repair shop would probably charge 500 and up. However, as we are in the midst of holiday shopping, there are some really good deals right now on new TVs.
@@chocolatedomi7983 Tough call. 3 years on a TV is not very long. Mine failed just over a year after buying so it was out of warranty and I spent about $1K on it so I decided to try to fix.
@@RoughRidersTV I ended up purchasing a new tv, but I didn't get rid of the broken one and I plan to give the repair a try. I just didn't want the pressure of not having a tv in the family room this close to the holidays...lol
@@chocolatedomi7983 Makes sense. Cool thing is now you can try the repair and it's low risk. Whether you fix it or not, you can take pride that you tackled this yourself. Good luck.
Good basic trouble shooting techniques except for when handling circuit boards a wrist grounding strap as an additional Safety step to protect the electronic components.
I don't disagree except I didn't have any grounding straps at home so I tried to make sure I discharged any static electricity buildup before handling components and make sure the environment was relatively clean from any dust, etc. But yes, grounding strap would have been better.
I'm not sure reflow would be the best option for an individual IC. But even so, you would need access to a reflow box and know which IC or component was failing. Without a datasheet and an O Scope, it would be hard to find the failing component.
Excellent troubleshooting technique and clean delivery/presentation. Like you said, most people would think that it is the Power board. However, you tested the power board by explaining the pins and their voltage table printed on the board. Also pointed out to the LED lit up once I/O board was disconnected from the Power board confirming that the Power board is OK. Not only that you showed what numbers to look for when ordering the I/O or Main board, which is very important to me. Thank you very much for your time in recording, presenting and sharing. I liked it. Congratulations!!! I will look forward for your other videos.
Just had the same problem with my 43” Samsung. Standby light on but no image or sound. Ordered both the I/O and power supply board. Turned out to be the power supply board. Back in commission. Thanks for the upload!
Great video! speaks clearly, explains how to check the voltage, and most importantly doesn't give a 30 min introduction or "unboxing" of the product like so many other videos out there. Thanks!
Thanks for watching.
Just bought a Samsung 65" .. 7100 series .. possibly as old as 2013. Bought at auction for less than $100 .. got it home and plugged in .. black screen. Standby light is on, blinking. Watched 3 different videos this evening on how to possibly troubleshoot and fix. Your video right here may get me to where I want to be. Will try removing back cover and 'testing' the board(s) tomorrow. Will come back and report here if successful using your methodology. Thank you for your video to help me get started.
Good luck. Hope it works out for you.
Thank you so much! I was following along and when I went to check the power side my meter would fluctuate and the lights for screen would flicker on and off. Turns out it was the power board. $34 later TV was fixed, got my part ShopJimmy. Thanks again.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
What are the odds, the first video and it's my exact tv and super easy fix. Thank you for making this video, I've fixed old school hd tvs where the caps on the power side were usually the culprit so it's nice to have someone who knows what they are doing make it easier.
Thanks for watching.
I have the same TV too. After watching, following the troubleshooting process and finding the same results... A new circuit board (after waiting several months for one to be in stock) has fixed my problem. Thanks for the great video!
@@garrettb1134 Glad it helped.
Unplug it and changed the batteries and got the picture back to normal. Thank you.
😅
My less than 2 y.o. Samsung started flashing the actual screen as well as the red light. And so I don't have the tools you have but since you were able to purchase both components together inexpensively, couldn't I simply replace both with minimal toolage and hope for the best? Although you didn't show how easy or difficult the "power" component would be to replace.🤔😃
The thought of buying another tv only to have it do this again, while also adding more electronic crap to a landfill is not making me smile 😶
My LG 55 Curve OLED has same issue. It works for approx 30 secs then switches off. After watching this informative video I have a much better understanding. Thank you!
Glad it helped.
Thanks for posting this video. Its just helped me in repairing my own Samsung 55" Curve, UE55MU6500U, Costing me £50 for a refurbished PCB in the UK. Kind Regards
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment.
I have the same TV only a smaller size, bought at the same time (about 5 years old) with the same problem (solid red light.) And got the same quote to fix it - $500. Haven't opened it yet to analyze. Not sure how reliable Samsung is with so many people with the same problem. Thanks for uploading.
I don't think it is a Samsung thing per se as the same thing could happen to any TV. Looking at the board design, I don't see anything that I would consider a bad design. Hot components had heatsinks, I didn't see stuff clustered together, routing looked fine. Basically it looked like a normal PCB and I'm betting that an LG, Phillips and other brands would look similar if I tore into one.
I'm so happy I found this video. I would have paid much more to have it fixed by a repair shop. Thank you!!!
You are very welcome. Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts.
I won't try to fix it myself, but just getting the proper info is simply Precious!
Excellent teaching method of showing each step, level of difficulty and final result!
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it.
This is exactly what my TV did. I don't know if I had sound or not. I can see the power indicator light or red stand by light. Turned off all lights in my room with the TV on and I'm not seeing any lights threw any holes or anything in the back of the TV. So it sounds like a bad power board. I'll know more when I get it apart. Thank you for your video. You made it all look pretty easy.
Glad it helped. Hope it all works out for you. Thanks for watching.
Richard, was it the Power Supply board? Did you ever end up getting it fixed. I too dont see any backlighting but I get an intermittent standby light flashing when powering on.
@@portugeeguy25 I junked it. Was the power board but there are 3 or 4 numbers you need to match up to get the right board. Every board I found did not match up. Mine had 2 small compasitors and 1 large one. The other boards replaced that large one with 2 smaller ones. ???
@@richardclark9609 I believe my issue too is the power board, i ordered the same model number board so I should be good, but we'll see. if not the power board it might be the actual LED strips, if thats the case I too will junk my old unit due to not wanting to deal with the aggravation of fixing it.
Good video. My 5 year old Samsung 55 inch shows the red power light on but black screen persists. If I play with the remote long enough (sometimes pushing the on button, unplugging the set for 5 minutes or so, plugging back in and pushing remote on button many many times) it will eventually power up and the tv works just fine, until I turn it off and the whole process starts over again. It's not a smart tv so it may not be worth spending $100 on to fix when I can get a new Hisence (may not be spelled right) smart tv for under $500 bucks . Hate to throw this tv out when I know it works though.
Did you ever figure it out
Nicely and clearly done video. My TV dead few days ago and it's has the same symptoms like yours. I'm hoping I can fix it. Thanks for the very informative video.
You are welcome. Thanks for coming by.
Our year old 75 inch Samsung and our WiFi box quit after lightening hit our house in Switzerland. Easily replaced the WiFi but think our TV is toast. I could try doing your fix but would probably ground myself in the process:) Excellent video though.
All would do well to see how a most informative and articulate video can be provided. I fix all that breaks, because of Post 2008 finances, that force me. Really, I love doing all types of Repairs, But this is not my forte. Now, I:m confident, with your fine tutelage, that my 65" Samsung will recover By my hands!. Take Care! Lee, FL
Thanks for the comment. Hope it helps you fix your TV.
I have the samsung qled 8k purchased three years ago purchased the 5 year warranty. Last week was watching The View abruptly there was several q
squared pixelation then turned off. Tried the little troubleshooting steps to no avail. However, I would say I still have power to the tv but won't turn on.
By watching your video enlightened me to believe its the same issue at the IO board went bad considering that my power board is on electrical currently passes through the tv since the standby light is on.
Thanks for the troubleshooting steps, it surely helped. Had the same on a 24" samsung monitor with a solid red. After spending time diagnosing, it pointed to the main board. Ordered one and installed it, now the red light keeps flashing, does not power on. Time to keep troubleshooting...
Best of luck. Please share your findings if you figure out what the problem is. Sounds like you made some progress though moving from a solid to blinking light.
Any luck ?
If he hasn't answered by now it usually means it didn't work, threw it out and bought a new one.
Yes I have a question. Can you come to my house? I bought a 50 inch TV for $10 at a garage sale and it doesn’t work red light comes on but that’s it. Straightforward video! I learned something today! Thanks
Glad you enjoyed the video. Hope it helps you fix your TV. As for the house call, unfortunately you are out of my service area (aka, my kitchen counter). LOL
YOU ARE THE MAN!!! I AM A RESELLER AND GET NERVOUS ABOUT ELECTRONICS THAT ARE NOT INITIALLY WORKING. THE WORLD IS NOW MY OYSTER! 😂😂😂
Thanks for watching. Glad it helped
5:44
My TV will also turn on the LEDs when I unplug the main board from the Power supply - but I can see one capacitor on the powersupply blown out.
Should I replace only the Power supply or both Power supply and Main board ?
I bought a kid with both boards so I had that option if needed. Were it me, I would start with the power board and see if that fixes it. If not, then swap the mainboard as well.
Keep in mind Capacitors don't always blow out when they go bad, they can just develop high resistance and dry out but not blow out.
The VISUAL INSPECTION thing is both a necessary thing to do but is also a beginner step and even though it is used by pro's it should never be your only method of troubleshooting capacitors.
You want to be using and ESR meter to work it out properly
In your case, you don't need to worry about the Power Board.
You see
When you have it all plugged in, YOU HAVE NO POWER AND NO BACKLIGHT
then you unplug the connecting cable from the Power board to the Logic board
THE RESULT IS... YOUR BACKLIGHTS COME ON
That means the logic board has a short circuit on the power rails preventing the power from turning on.
Simply Put... Faulty Logic Board
If you work the statistics, it's highly likely , Only your Logic board is faulty, I would be replacing only that first.
as for your capacitors.
You should get an ESR tester and test all the capacitors in that area
or... if you don't have one
Replace all the capacitors in that area just for good measure.
See if you get the backlight again, with
Only the power supply on
With Only the cable going to the LED Panel connected
BUT NOT THE CABLE TO THE LOGIC BOARD, Keep that unplugged
if still you get backlight but not picture on the TV
and you still get no backlight when you plug in the logic board
.... Replace the logic board
@@martinkuliza I replaced both for around $150 and now my TV works :) wasn't easy finding the parts
wow salute u mr rough rider very clear and fully detail all i need is there 10stars for u many many thanks
Thanks for watching
Are you responding to questions on this video still? I have a 75 inch Visio that went out last night. Half of the screen turned A pinkish white color or whatever color and the other half of the screen remained working. I turned it off and then back on but the screen never came back on. The audio continue to work but not the video. Any suggestions?
Hi I have a LED 40'' Bush TV with built in DVD player. The standby light comes on but when you go to switch it on the blue power light comes on then quickly goes off again and goes back to red standby so TV does not come on. There is a lead from a white socket connector from the board that runs to the standby switch mount then across to the standby light with another connector. So could this be a problem again with AV- board as it looks like the only board it has besides the DVD board. I'm looking to replace the whole board for a new one, I'm only looking for a brief outline of a probable cause, so any advice will be very much appreciated, . . thanks
Thanks for this video! Was able to bring my tv back to life for $40!
Glad it helped.
You are SO lucky, it will cost me more to have it done. Dang it. GREAT video.
I see a lot of videos that show the led lights are burned out. Not the board. Any ideas on the led lights, testing , replacing ?
Sorry, I've not run into that before so I've not tried that repair. Basically, I work on my own stuff that breaks and if it seems like an interesting video idea, I turn it into a YT tutorial.
This was a very good video, on how to DIY, an electronic repair, using basic electrical and troubleshooting skills to arrive at a possible determination. That being the computer board, and finding by researching a good value on both the power in and power out boards.
Kudos for the good video!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video.....I have a Samsung 75" Q70R and it went black screen while watching a movie, it flashed blue every 20 seconds, I have some knowledge in electronics so I opened it to see if it had bad capacitors. With the TV energized, I disconnected the ribon cable that goes to the main board and the screen turned blue, so I assumed it was not the damaged screen, I have been looking on ebay and I have found the original power supply parts, do you think that replacing the board will solve the problem?...thanks
Great work and you fixed it! We live in a disposable society these days and because of that more waste and garbage is produced. I am one who'd rather fix things than throw it away. 👍👍
Well said!
I am getting the same voltage reading as you did but the led light do not turn on when I disconnect the cable from the main board. Is there a way to check if the led lights are functional? My power supply board seems fine as it gives the right voltage and not visual damage
That could be the T-conn board as the drivers for the LED should be part of that board. I did not disassemble the TV enough to show that board but it should be near the bottom center of the TV. You might need to dig a bit further to get to that board. That is where I would look next.
Thanks ny brother. I have a degree in electronics too. I feel good fixing my tv now.
Glad to help
Thank you for your time and clear explanation. Now to fix my Hisense TV which is not powering up at the moment.
You are welcome. Thanks for checking out the video and leaving a comment. Good luck on your repair.
I have an LG TV 55UK5600aua I can't find any information on any videos on UA-cam I have a standby lite, white screen when I turn it on. TV shuts off after about 20 minutes. I also cannot find T-com board, where would it be located?
I'm not familiar with that specific TV so I couldn't be positive. However, the design and layout is probably similar to how mine is...if you look at the ribbon cables, you will probably have one that runs from the power board to the I/O board and then another that runs from the I/O board to the T Con board.
EXCELLENT video ! Only one question, wear rubber gloves, or not...too bulky ?! Of course stay away from incoming cord un reduced by board or capasitors that could hold charge ... but otherwise rest is low voltage. And you mentioned you grounded the tv prior to testing...grounded to WHAT ?! Have a samsung 50 inch going blue to black, got it going by draining power
for over two minutes, but weeks after she did it again just watching it !! 3 years old, Have a Sony 25 inch tube 35 years old still running !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hello, thank you for the video it is pretty straightforward. my Samsung ue48h5273ss is not loading. Once I put it on, I can see the backlight come on but it is not loading to show me the start up menu. kindly help?
Did you walk through the troubleshooting as I did in the video? I would start there and see what happens.
Very good video. These TVs in reality are easy to fix most of the time. This video clearly show that. 👍
Excellent video! I am having almost the exact same issues with my Panasonic TC-39AS530U. TV turns on, screen flickers 3 times (I can see the LED lights flickering in the back), then I get a blank screen with 1 LED flicker (error code 1 I assume) then just a slowly blinking red LED. There is no sound and I can't turn it off with the remote. I have to press and hold the power button on the side of the unit or unplug it to turn it off. I have tested my power supply board. ALL 3 test points (standby, LED driver, and main board) maintain voltage when it goes from power on to blinking light. However, the pins on the connector for the main board and driver board go from 16V and 24V respectively down to 0 when the light starts to blink.
There are 3 test points on the main board, 5.3V, 12V, and 15V. The 5.3V (standby) maintains voltage when it goes from power on to blinking light, the other two do not, they go to 0. Would that, along with voltages being maintained on the power supply board, indicate that this main board is bad? I really hope that is the case as I do not want to get into replacing LED strips. Thanks and keep up the great work! P.S. I have put in new power supply and T-con boards and the problem continues.
are there any error codes online that might corelate to the blinking LED? I am wondering if they are blinking a pattern that it might be an error code.
@@RoughRidersTV After it flickers 3 times trying to turn on it blinks once...error code 1, then after a couple of seconds just a slow steady continuous blinking. I've replaced the power supply, main, and T-con boards so it looks as if I have some burnt out LED's. Your thoughts?
What’s makes the IO board go out? We bought a brand new Samsun tv 11 days ago. Wont power on. We tried all the troubleshooting we could find online. Indicator light is on but nothing happens when I press the power button on the tv or the remote.
If you bought it brand new and it failed after 11 days, I would take it back as it is still under warranty. As for what could make it fail, could be a lot of different things. Power surge, dust (which carries a lot of static electricity by the way), bad resistor or capacitor on the board, faulty connections on the board, excessive heat something could have happened during shipping that cracked solder connection. It really could be a number of different possibilities. Some times, stuff just happens...it's very rare for something to fail that fast but not impossible as you found out.
Awesome, sir. I just replaced the tv with a monitor, although now I'm wondering if I should seek to do what you did. But after seeing how much you paid for the extra board...I might as well just get another TV for about the same price! The TV I'm watching this video on is the same model you just fixed.🤣Nice video anyway.
The cost of TVs continue to drop so it is approaching a point where that is a good question to ask. A 65" display in my area is still $400+ dollars vs the $90 I spent on the kit. So for me, it still made sense to swap the boards vs buy new. But I hear ya, sometimes it's just not worth the effort.
Get to it and you didn’t make it complicated for people who don’t have that knowledge thank you
No problem. Glad you liked the video.
I was surprised you didn't record the voltages on the bad board before you replaced it. That way you could T/S the bad board and possibly repair it. Just my thoughts on having a spare board.
ON MY POWER SUPPLY UNDER IT IT HAS NON CONDUCTIVE PAPER THAT HAS PLASTIC RIVET HOLDING IT UNDER THE CIRCUIT BOARD IS THERE ANY SPECIAL WAY TO REMOVE THE PLASTIC RIVETS OR HAVE SEEN THEM THANK YOU
I haven't seen them. I would expect if they are riveted that you would need to snap the rivet and replace it when re-installing. However, do you need to remove the paper as part of the repair? Can you work around it?
Thank you for the vid, it helped me to fix mine that had the very same problem after 2 years of use.
You are welcome. Mine failed just over a year and out of warranty. Too expensive to not do something about it but too expensive to have a repair guy come out so figured I would take a crack at it.
Hi Rough, I opened my TV and inspected the power board for burn marks, bulged capacitors etc. and everything looks OK, I unplugged the connector like you did but on the power board side (not the logic/main board like you did) and the LEDs lit up so nothing wrong with the LEDs and power is getting to them. However, I don't have a multimeter to test output to the logic board. Nothing looks wrong with the logic/main board (no burn marks). Should I go ahead and order a new logic/main board ($92) and try that first and then order a power board ($20-38) if that doesn't solve it?
Just curious, do you have any idea what might have caused your problem in the first place? I'm not sure but there's a chance adding a new HDMI connected Amazon Firestick 4K Max a month ago might have screwed things up on my main board because when I briefly got it to work for a second the screen went on and displayed on top "HDMI not connected" even though it was.
You can get a basic multimeter from Home Depot or Lowes for about $15. I don't know if they offer them as tool rentals but might be worth asking. It really helps avoid random swaps to find the problem. I did order both boards as a kit so that if one didn't work I could try the other.
As to what could cause it? Heat and dust are 2 big issues for electronics. Dust carries static electricity that can cause components to short out. Heat can damage ICs over time...As it is, the TV already gets warm so adding heat from say an enclosed cabinet or mounting over a fireplace makes it that much harder to keep components cool. However, sometimes, components just fail with no real external cause.
Hope that helps.
@@RoughRidersTV Hi, so I went ahead and ordered the main board without testing with a multimeter (BTW, I heard some libraries rent out multimeters and watt usage monitors). I installed it today, just like you did - the hardest part was getting all the cables out, and my TV is back!!! Now, upon inspecting the old board once removed from the TV I noticed what could possibly be the problem which wasn't apparent when it was installed. I realized the 2 bolted pins on the left (where the A/V connections are) that fasten the black metal heat sink plate to the processor were completely loose and not making contact with the processor (at least a 2 mm gap) or the 3 "n" shaped possibly sensors/contacts/spacers(?) near the bolts. This could be the culprit. The only way to find out is to fix it, reinstall and test. But it would require a shop as I don't have the tools. But it would've been a cheaper option than ordering a new board ($83). Unfortunately, my internet search gave me no clue that this could be something to check. Maybe somebody reading this might consider checking this. If it is the problem, it's a simple fix - the spring loaded bolts need to be refastened securely. Anyway, thanks a lot for your help, really appreciate it.
@@nGAhGENVH0Ul If the heatsink was not making contact with the chip, that could very well be the source. The chip overheated and most likely failed. Prolonged overheating on the chip will kill it so reinstalling the heatsink would probably not do anything. Glad your TV is back up though, congrats.
@@RoughRidersTV I hadn't considered the processor might have fried. Could be I suppose. Could it be poor design that the pins came loose? The rivets on the back don't look wide enough. I took photos but I can't post them here. Thanks again Rough.
i have question my tv comes on only after i unplug and plug it becomes very annoying. i do get led light i have try other plugs same condition what you recommend
hard to say but sounds like a chip went bad on the I/O board. It's almost like it gets stuck in a logic state that is not clearing until power is completely removed...sorta like being stuck in standby. Removing the plug, removes all power so it is no longer in a low power state and ready to come back on quickly...removing that power forces it to reboot and clear all previous states. Were it me, I would try to find an i/o board for cheap and swap it and see if that clears the issue.
@@RoughRidersTV thank you very much
Any chance you could tell me what voltage reader you use?
Mine is a Fluke but any volt meter will work.
Hi there I have a jvc the light of the standby on but is not turning tv on by remote or by the standby switch any ideas
Well, that is exactly what I covered in the video. Please watch the video and you will see what I did to solve the issue with my TV.
Samsung UN75H7150AFXZA
stopped working after a power anomaly.
no standby light, does not come on with power button or remote.
power supply board output voltages seem to be okay
When I disconnect the power to main board cable, back light comes on.
very similar to this video.
interested in hearing your thoughts/suggestions?
Sounds like your powerboard is probably ok. I would then look at the I/O board and the T/Con board.
Thanks for a nice and clear video, as this gives me the confidence to take the back off my 50" LG that also is not powering up at the moment.
You are welcome. Thanks for stopping by.
Jamie Thompson, - Any Luck with the LG??
I have a Sony Bravia D It blinks red 6 times each cycle...a shop tells me Sony does not make the parts any more.....The set was purchases new 8/28/16, Any suggestions. Thank you. Les
I would go through the steps to see if you can determine whether the power board or i/o board is out. Once you know that, search online for the part number of the board. You can probably find boards out of reclaimed sets that will work. That is what I bought at Shop Jimmy's.
I thought the other pins besides your standby would be zero until the tv was told to turn on? On my tv all of my pins are reading zero besides standby voltage, and they all go to the correct voltage when I jumper the standby to the on/off pin. I’m not sure if I am thinking of this wrong. Thanks for any info you could provide.
Once you apply power to the system, the chip driving those pins will go to their known starting state. Without the datasheet, I don't know what that state is. The voltages should be on that table printed on the board but I don't recall what they are. However, most are don't care because there are only a couple that you care about when determining if the board is getting power.
My Led 43uk6300pvb it's red light of when switch on but after 30 second display shows.
Not rebooting and not doing hard reset. Solution pleased
My first thought too would be the power board! Thanks for your input!
No problem. That was my initial thought as well but turned out to be the I/O board. Good luck on your repair and thanks for watching.
Thanks for the vídeo. I think my tv has same issue. I measure the power delivery from the power board and everything looks good.
(Also LEDs goes on without the i/o card as yours)
Searching for I/O card replacement.
Saludos desde México.
Gracias.
where do you find a part number, or how do you find your exact match?
At the 8:50 mark, I show where I found the part number on my board. Then I just searched for that part number online. From there, I just verify that the boards appear the same and that is what I ordered.
Well done enjoyed watching, not sure if I will go that far to order a new one.
The cost of TVs are coming down and you can land some great deals on a black friday or big sale. But for $90.00, figured it was worth a shot and trying to fix.
I have a tv that the standby light blinks 7 times. Indication that the PS board was good so I replaced the Main board and it still does the same thing? Suggestions appreciated.
could possibly be the T Comm board but not sure. Without schematics and/or datasheets and the set in front of me, not sure where the exact issue might be. While I am an electronic engineer, I am not a TV repair guy...I just dug in and started measuring stuff in an effort to troubleshoot the issue.
Please, where can I find the mother card for the LG 65oled C6V-Z
I don't know specifically. However, I show how I found mine...just start searching for parts using the board number printed on the PCB.
I have the same issue with my oled c8 and its been checked by lg technician and I'm asked to go for screen replacement which cost 1000 dollars' feel like they just wanna take the money cuz I don't see any sign of burn in tho,any suggestion?thank you
I would do some quick testing and see what measurements you get. At 1K, I would just get a new TV.
@@RoughRidersTV appreciate your quick reply, you have been really helpful
Excellent fix & Explaining as you went along, Glad it worked for You! Hope it will work for me too lol
Glad it helped
Probably the faulty parts in the main board are the mosfets or smd capacitors, using your dmm in the continuity mode would do the work. Thanks for sharing the video.
Could be. I didn't have the tools to de-solder and re-solder new components down to the board anyway so it was easier to just replace the board.
My Samsung 55" flat screen stop working. I have a standby light,but want do anything else. I replaced the power board still nothing. No back lights or picture. I removed the ribbon from the other board and back lights come on. IS THAT BOARD BAD?
Did you go through the troubleshooting steps that I outlined in the video? It should help you determine if it is the main I/O board or the power board. I thought mine was going to be the power board but it turned out to be the I/O board that failed.
@@RoughRidersTV hey boss, I replaced both boards. What else can it be?
@@joshdelaney7506 I think about the only other board in there would be the Tcom board. Did you verify the switch itself is OK?
Straighforward indeed and worthwhile only if below 100$ for an >= $500 TV. Thanks for posting.
Very brief and complete. Awsome . When i plug in my tv (after being un plugged for few minutes) a white led light blinks on for a couple of seconds and then nothing happens. Ive checked everything like remote control batteries and all is fine. Tried to power on from the tv box too, nothing happens. The tv is directly connected to wall. Please help me understand the problem and how to solve it. Many thanks!
I would suggest following the steps outlined in the video.
@@RoughRidersTV to be honest your video is really helpful. Ill watch it once again. All the best
You gave me the Best Info, after so many videos. Tks a lot!!
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
Hello sir when you check the voltage on the power cable pin do you use acv or dvc mode on the multimeter?
ΣDM LӨVΣЯ whenever you are dealing with digital circuits like this, you always measure the DC voltage, not AC. AC is strictly when dealing with power outlets, etc. I know it was quick but I showed the setting right about the 6min mark in the video.
@@RoughRidersTV Thank you very much for replying and I've just find out mine power cable pin(on the power board)(2 pin 13v) that should have 13v but instead it's just maxed out to 5.3v and the other one is 4.7 also there are 3 pin that should be 5v but all 3 of them instead getting less than 2v. Could this mean that my power board is faulty and I should replace the power board? Mine TV problem is exactly like yours and it's 8 years old TV.
@@OJtheOZ Sounds like your power board is bad then as it does not appear to be delivering enough voltage. It could be something as simple as a loose resistor or cap or something like a bad voltage regulator. However, you can replace the entire board for about $100.00.
Thank you for making this video....gives me some confidence to do more troubleshooting with our TV.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching.
When i press the power button, the standby button doesn't blink. Could this be a power switch problem?
What if Your screen is just dark but you can see tv programming. I checked the settings and everything is set correctly. I can hear and see the picture everything is dark. What could it be the LED strips?
It could be as simple as a connector or more complex like the T-Con board went bad or the panel LED went out. If the entire screen is dark, my first thought is that the LEDs are not getting power to them because if they were, at least some of the LEDs would light up. It's just one of those, work your way back from the LEDs to see where the problem is coming in.
GM sir, my LED 32" tv no picture no sound no back light. just standby light blink once and off there is no working any parts. But my tv combo board current flow any components correctly. What is a proble
Could be a number of things. I would suggest starting with checking the power rails as I did in the video. If the power board is good, then it is probably the I/O board or the T-Con board.
wish i would of seen your video before i brought my tv to the repair shop ! its there now so it will cost me a few 100$ ?
In theory, their troubleshooting experience should be worth it, but if the price to just replace the power & controller board is cheap enough and DIY-able... but the screen itself or other stuff could be broken... decisions, decisions
Hard to say what the repair cost will be. It all depends on the shop, what they find and the parts/labor involved to fix. Flat panel TVs are not all that complex and actually quite a bit easier than the old CRT/Tube TVs to repair as they are much more modular. Swapping out a failing PCB is simple, it's diagnosing the problem that can be tricky. It could be as easy as a cable or board or something a bit deeper into the panel. That combined with the falling prices of flat panels themselves sometimes makes it easier to just replace the TV.
I changed both the main board and power board, standby light is but no tv. Any suggestions. Thanks
Might be the T-con panel. Are you seeing lights powerup when you first plug in?
Shop Jimmy is a really good and honest place.
They seemed good to me as well. No complaints.
I don't have a Samsung, but this is great general info that could apply to my TV as well.
Hi my voltage is coming out 11v on all the pins, is that good or it means that is not good anymore ? Thank you
I don't know. Have you checked the board markings to see if it tells you what voltage you should be measuring. Mine had a box that stated the correct voltage on each pin. In my case, the voltages measured were very close the voltages stated on the board.
@@RoughRidersTV Hi thanks for replying my message and yes it say 13v on each pin but testing it comes out 11v
@@vitopiro447 That is a pretty low swing. If it were I, I would look over the rest of the board and see if there are any obvious components that failed (capacitors, voltage regulators, resistors, etc.). If so, then you could try to replace the failing component. If that might be too much, then replacing the entire board would be the next option.
@@RoughRidersTV all looks good but I will try to replace the board I found one cheep. Thank you so much for your help and I learned a lot on your video.
@@vitopiro447 You are welcome. Good luck on fixing your TV.
I am glad I found this video I have the exact same unit, popped in a new pb and still same results
James Metalarc I was thinking it was going to be the power board but once I measured the voltages it was clear that wasn’t the issue.
HELP once in a while, my TOSHIBA 37AV502U would not coming on and make a loud screeching ,beeping, code like sounds. i would unplug it and plug it in a few times and it would work fine. but this started happening a lot so i just left it on. this was fine for months and months, but we lost power and it was off for days and i couldn't get it back on. yesterday i took it apart, vacuumed it out to look for obvious thing i could fix.[ i fix a lot of things and other TV's that way] i did the power button and the plug thing and it came on after many tries with just the loud noises. i thought maybe it was loss wire syndrome,LOL, but now it's just screeching. any idea's?
I can't think of anything that would be causing screeching sounds from the PCB. I suppose a blown cap or something might make a noise but those tend to pop and smoke and then go out, not make screeching noises. However, I would start looking at the power rails first and to see if they are in spec, just as I did in the video.
now its back on. lol. seems like if i leave it on for a while, after the screeching modem sounds . i can turn it off ,then on , and get it to come on. I'll take the boards out and inspect a little closer. thanks. oh. one more thing. the green light comes on, but does not have the red light after off and still plugged in.
@@immrnoidall Toshiba may be doing something different for standby than Samsung. My TV does not have any green LED on it. So, not really sure what, if anything that means since I don't have that TV.
thanks. i really appreciate the help i get here and from others.
I have a 32' TCL tv the power light comes on but i have to press the power button a few times to get anything on the screen, i don't have a remote, is there anything i can do to solve this problem.
Sounds like it may be a switch problem. I would test with a multimeter.
I have a 55"TCL Roku TV I can see the screen is on but I can hardly see what what's on the screen.it flashes for a second then it goes dark..I don't have the remote so I can't reset it... what would you do in this situation
Could be a few things. Could be the T-Con board, LED driver chip, bad cable, failing power board not driving enough power to the LEDs, etc. Hard to say without schematics and the proper troubleshooting tools.
I know it’s been 2 years but this is what’s happening to my daughter tv 65”. My question is what’s the name of the device you used to test the voltage. So i can buy one.
It's a volt meter. You can find them at any hardware store or big box chain like lowes or home depot.
I have a TCL 49 TV with similar symptoms. Thanks for the break down on measuring voltages from power board to main board to decide what is bad.That is the step I am at now. PS I would stay away from TCL tvs terrible customer support. TV had almost no use but was out of warranty.
Thanks for stopping by. Hope you were able to get your TV back up.
Usually its those microprocessor BGA chips under the heat sinks that fail, either broken solder or just failed.
Greetings, Thanks for the Vid. I have a HiSense 55" Roku TV It shut off the other day and would not turn back on. The standby light turns on when plugged in then dims and flashes once goes black for a couple seconds this sequence repeats continuously. I replaced the power board. Same issue. I measured the power from the USB port and the USB power seems to cycle with the light sequence. as if the TV is rebooting. Any ideas ?
Sounds like a short somewhere. In a completely unrelated product, I ran into a reboot issue...not saying this is what is happening with you but it just came to mind. I had a customer once that had a PC connected to the same outlet they had a refrigerator plugged into. Whenever the fridge compressor kicked on, the PC would reboot because the fridge was pulling too much current from the line. Took me a while to figure that one out. Reboots can happen with the power line swings low and drops below 5V DC triggering a reboot. Similarly in an AC system, if the power slips out of phase (like in a brown out) or Vrms drops, you could get a reboot. However, that doesn't sound like what is going on with your system. If your I/O board is experiencing a short, some chips (like your USB) may still be getting power but other logic circuits may not be. This is all just a guess because I would really need the board and the proper tools and documentation to really diagnose the problem.
@@RoughRidersTV thanks for the information. Cheers
I’m having a problem with a Samsung DLP HLT-T6189S.
If I keep turning power on, it flashes green, then it stops, but the screen won’t light up.
Repeat this a dozen times and I can finally get it to light up.
It’s taking longer and longer for that trick to work.
I may be doing what you just showed me
I have an issue with my 49 inch Samsung LCD...when I plug it in, it only flash a red light and turn completely off. May I ask what could be the specific board in question?
Sounds like a similar problem to mine. You might try following the steps in the video to find out if your power board or I/O board is the issue.
Super video. and very good explantion while gooing trough the search for the falult. Good job. i will try myself now on my TV :)
Do you have a link to the place you got your boards from. TIA
I don't have the exact link but I do call out the place I got it from (shop Jimmy's) so it should be easy to find online.
I have a 65inch onn Roku tv when I plug my tv in the screen is black and the power light just blinks red what should I do
The 15 second power button hold worked for me on my nano cell. Thanks!
Very good........simple and understanding. Can I order parts for flat tv screen from you if I provide you all information like brand name, model number and extra ?
Sorry, can't help you. I'm not a shop or repair center. I'm just a guy that had a TV that broke so I tore it apart to try and figure out what was wrong. I recorded the video to show what I did to fix my TV.
@@RoughRidersTV No worries. Your video show really helpful to me but the problem is spare part. Thank you very much.
@@boraingtabe5237 If you exchange the whole pcb , just look for numbers on the pcb, stamped on the side of a pcb, with ie number and V1.2 or the like.Many tv's have the same or different pcb's even from same brands. So looking at the brand of tv or type is often not enough. Look via search engine, repairing the components or resistors is often udoable,because they are so small,chances are slim it will work.
What if the standby light isn’t on and the tv doesn’t power up? The only thing I’m getting is a static sound coming from the back letting me know it’s plugged in
I would suggest still following the steps. It's more than likely 1 of the 2 boards that is the problem. With schematics and an O Scope, you could dive in deeper to find the exact failing component but it's easier just to swap out a board that is failing as that is pretty much what a tech would do when they show up at your house.
Its nice the way you explain things good work my friend
If you get the blinking light but the tv won’t start then try a hard factory reset first. For Sharp brand tvs you unplug the tv and then hold down the vol - and input button while plugging tv power plug back in to wall. Hold the two buttons until you get a fuzzy screen. Then unplug tv again and hold down power and input button at same time while plugging back into wall. Now you will be in factory reset menu. Fill out and then save and restart tv. You might be able to skip the last step after you get snowy screen by turning off and then turning on tv and going to channel 3.
Hello, is it worth taking it into a shop for repair? I followed the video but I don’t think I will be able to do the actually repair.
I think it depends on how old the TV is. A repair shop would probably charge 500 and up. However, as we are in the midst of holiday shopping, there are some really good deals right now on new TVs.
@@RoughRidersTV That’s what I was thinking. I brought it in 2017. Thank you for responding.
@@chocolatedomi7983 Tough call. 3 years on a TV is not very long. Mine failed just over a year after buying so it was out of warranty and I spent about $1K on it so I decided to try to fix.
@@RoughRidersTV I ended up purchasing a new tv, but I didn't get rid of the broken one and I plan to give the repair a try. I just didn't want the pressure of not having a tv in the family room this close to the holidays...lol
@@chocolatedomi7983 Makes sense. Cool thing is now you can try the repair and it's low risk. Whether you fix it or not, you can take pride that you tackled this yourself. Good luck.
Good basic trouble shooting techniques except for when handling circuit boards a wrist grounding strap as an additional Safety step to protect the electronic components.
I don't disagree except I didn't have any grounding straps at home so I tried to make sure I discharged any static electricity buildup before handling components and make sure the environment was relatively clean from any dust, etc. But yes, grounding strap would have been better.
Sir, you save me a trip to Best Buy. Thank you very much 😊
How much is a replacement bored?
I show you were I purchased the board and how much I paid in the video. It's probably around the 1/2 mark somewhere.
Maybe it is possible to reflow the big ic on the defect i/O board.
I'm not sure reflow would be the best option for an individual IC. But even so, you would need access to a reflow box and know which IC or component was failing. Without a datasheet and an O Scope, it would be hard to find the failing component.
Great DIY video. Detailed and straight forward.
Thanks for watching.