I liked the part where you threw away the stud finder so you could use the far superior method of hammering a nail into the drywall sixteen times to find the edge of the stud.
Hey so...problem it seems like you didn't consider. Those threaded rods are going WAY deep into the stud. More than enough to have you drilling into pipes or wiring that is run through the stud center. This can only be used in walls where you know 100% that there is nothing going through the studs in that location.
Personally, if I wanted a high load bearing floating wall shelf, I would just cut the drywall, double the studs, and use a torsion based steel T bracket for the shelf.
@@barryallen5507 I was going to comment the same thing. Cutting drywall would have been easier, and safer. And if it needs to hold more of a load, put more load bearing support... Smh
You teach us about a new great charging option, two different ways to locate studs, two different styles of floating shelves, two different finish options, and test both styles with results and review and do it ALL in only 6 1/2 minutes! Great video! So many other channels could / should learn from you.
Man, you get in there, make your points, and don't waste time! So many videos have lengthy preambles or bog down in the middle or take forever to explain something. Bravo, dude.
When drilling more than 1-1/2" into a stud, be careful, there might be wiring or plumbing going through the center of the stud. If the house was built correctly and inspected before the drywall went up, there should be metal plates covering all wiring or plumbing going through the studs. Unfortunately a lot of DIYers do some crazy stuff and skip the required steps to be up to code.
In my jurisdiction you only need protective plates if the wire or pipe is less than 1 inch from the edge of the stud. Drill deeper than that and there's never any protection.
I did not know there were stud finders capable of detecting live wire and pipes, that's super useful. I had some really old stud finders as a kid and have always used the knocking technique instead because they were finicky and annoying to use. You can clearly feel/hear the stud behind the drywall with a light tap from your knuckles.@@jeffreyvanzeijst7932
@@SpectrumOfChange Look at the schematic of the house, you can see all the spots with cables or plumbing, dont be dumb and drill into wires & death, be smart and just look at the piece of paper (or ask the landlord if you dont have it, idk)
Nice ideas for the shelves. One tip I have learned when staining the end grain of timber. Spend a bit of time sanding it super fine down to 400+ grit with random orbital sander. It stops it soaking up too much extra stain and looking darker than the rest of the side grain timber.
DIYers, when drilling into walls watch out for wires and pipes, water and gas. Know where your shutoffs for everything are. Usually good construction will put metal plates so you can’t drill through. And there’s convention where they are embedded halfway in the stud so the depth is known. But research this and DIY safely
This is a very important precaution as the time and cost to repair could be very high. The good news is you have maybe 2 or 3 things going through a stud on average at various heights, usually close to floor or ceiling or the height of a wall switch, so you'll probably be lucky and find nothing in the way. But still check!
@Quack The wires should be following code, which means they're going through the center of the stud and give 1 3/8 inches on both sides of the wood. This is done so drywall screws (1 1/4 in.) can safely go into the studs since drywall is 1/2 in. thick + the 1 3/8 in given by the stud. So use the appropriate length screws when going into studs and you should be fine. Pipes on the other hand, you can indeed hit if you mistake one for a stud.
I'm in Ontario, Canada. Ontario Building code and ESA code mandates that steel protector plates are only installed whenever there's wires or pipes less than 1-1/4" from the face of any stud or 1-3/4" from the face of 1/2" drywall. This guy is doing excellent work compared to most but one thing he didn't mention is one needs to be cognizant of potential wires/pipes before drilling that deep into studs.
I use a stud finder from time to time but I have used your methods for finding studs for years. Very accurate, and to be honest, if you get just the right sunlight in a room or use a flashlight at night, you can find all of the studs easily just by looking for screws. I know people will claim that excellent drywallers will not make mistakes that will make this obvious, but I guess I have never seen excellent drywallers. If you use a small powerful magnet with a thin piece of cloth to keep you from making marks on your walls, you can also find the nail or screw heads very easily.
Man this is real good stuph. I just discovered your channel and just by watching this first video, I hereby declare that it is de best DIY/craft channel I’ve ever come by. Everything about it: content, production, quirks, style. I especially appreciate the quick and “natural” way to find studs. Thank you, sir!
If the construction crew knew their craft, there would be no dimples over the stud fasteners, the mudding and sanding should have eliminated the dimples.
I totally agree. And if the drywalls are pro grade, they will have mud all over the wall because that's the only sure way to have no seams of any kind visible through the paint. The wall will have visible imperfections only if it's not sanded after mudding.
100% agree... This part of the video is so wrong... The way he finds stud center by nailing through the wall over and over...*facepalm* Just use a stud finder and that way you'll know if there's nearby electrical wires too. Oh and you won't have to nail 700 holes in your wall.
@@cugsy lmao you must not work with carpenters. For one, the nails he put on the wall are placed so that when yhe shelf goes in, you'll never see it. For 2, ever cabinet guy I know uses that same technique. Pull down some of your cabinets and I'm sure you'll find quite a few holes my friend
@@cugsy I doubt that lol these guys hang perfect kitchens with 15 or so cabinets in 3 hours. Plumb, level, flush stiles, and crown all installed. Hbu? Botched work lmao what a joke
This comparison of two ways to do floating shelves is super insightful! It's fascinating to see the different methods and their strengths tested side by side. Your attention to detail and thoroughness in testing make this video really informative for anyone considering floating shelf projects. Thanks for shedding light on the best techniques-it's sure to save us time and effort! 🛠📚👍
Anker are the best cables I have ever seen. it's sad, but in recent years they cost like original apples, but they are much better in quality and do not peel off and do not get dirty. Good job dude! Best regards from Russia!
I love this method. I use maple 1” dowel to do this all the time. A trick I use to place it on the stud is to just cut the drywall out in a small area within the shelfs footprint.
For sure, I agree those yellow stud finders are GARBAAAGGEEEE. I see them and I don't even bother grabbing them to find a stud. I do however like the franklin pro sensors they do okay at finding studs. Often for sale at costco. usually found at other big box stores. Magnet method works great in most cases.
1:30 The use of magnet instead of stud finder is pretty clever indeed! In addition to finding the studs, you also find the locations of the screws which is important because you don't want to attach anything too close to existing screw.
its clever if whoever taped the wall is awful at their job. you could also just use a studfinder instead of using a fridge magnet and a nail. This is a pretty classic "work hard not smart" example
@@ThatGuyMata Studfinders rarely have accuracy in millimeters. A magnet can locate screwheads much more accurately and the nail can find the edge of the stud with submillimeter accuracy. That said, drilling holes with diameter close to 50% of the stud may still be a bad idea for structural integrity of the stud.
@@MikkoRantalainen my studfinder has millimeter accuracy and while a pin magnet might be more accurate, this is quite literally just going to great lengths to over complicate something. Coming from someone marketing themselves as a "pro", I couldn't find you a single working carpenter right now that would use a magnet and a nail to find studs and trust me I know a shit load of carpenters
Hey, have watched and rewatched yo see how far exactly did you drill through on the shelf itself. You say you’re using an 8in rod, but how much did you insert into the shelf?? Thanks
good job! i wonder how it works on brick walls, probably not that great on hollow type bricks and soft type insulation bricks (i don't know the term for those)..
7 місяців тому
I love the little model to show how the interior of an (American!) wall looks like. They look very different from all the parts of the world I lived in. We usually use brick or reinforced concrete.
beam strength is defined by the cross sectional area (area moment of inertia), so the round rods are "vertically thicker" than the flat brackets. (the reason for the shape of an I beam). Study hollow beams and cantilevers to solid ones, for those interested
Also determined by the material. All-thread has very little shear strength and the threads are for metal not wood. His results would have been different if he used the same diameter lag bolts or thicker brackets.
I love the threaded rod idea! Very clean, I might try it myself. Driving nails to find the stud edge is effective but time consuming. I recommend investing in a Franklin Precision stud finder. They show you the entire stud so you can find the center in seconds. Game changer.
New to your channel. I was enjoying how your videos are so concise and without any waffle, but then joke about the stud finder did make me chuckle. Look forward to seeing more content, great video so far.
Grade 8.8 bolts: Also known as structural grade bolts, they are typically made of steel and plated with several coatings. Grade 10.9 bolts: As these bolts are most often used in the automotive industry, they are also referred to as ‘car bolts’. They are made of boron or carbon steel and have high tensile strength (1040 MPa). Grade 12.9 bolts: Known for their strength, these bolts are most often used in the manufacturing and construction industries to join medium or heavy industrial parts such as an automotive engine. Grade 14.9 bolts: It's simple: these are the most durable bolts you can use in your application. Perfect to join large structural elements to each other, the grade 14.9 bolt has a whopping maximum tensile strength of 1400 MPa. igh tensile rods.
Thanks. I want shelves my cats can jump up on and run around for years. Watched s video person didn't put brackets into studs. Looked awesome! Lol for a few weeks. I don't want to do that error!!
I really liked this! I’ve seen a lot of videos on doing floating shelves and I appreciate your forward straight to the point! Rebar might be cheaper and maybe stronger. From what I’ve seen. Thanks for the video!
The fire retardant in XPS dust is not safe to breathe. It's safe to cut with a utility knife (as with normal insulation jobs), but you might want to find another material to protect your workbench (e.g., plywood) from a circular saw. I like the shelf method though, especially for wall areas that aren't likely to have plumbing or electrical running through them.
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IMPORTANT: if you’re thinking about attempting the second method, please watch my follow up video ua-cam.com/video/Wyx2V68fFHs/v-deo.html
Ok cool, but where’d you get them boots?
I liked the part where you threw away the stud finder so you could use the far superior method of hammering a nail into the drywall sixteen times to find the edge of the stud.
Work smarter not....never mind.
Alan Asplund you are loved that is awesome lol lol
@@jakerazmataz852 🤣
It would have been nice to see if the stud finder actually works on the wall. Never used one or will buy one, so don't know.
@@jtoker9758 yes they work well and that one in particular throws up a red arrow exactly on the stud.
Hey so...problem it seems like you didn't consider. Those threaded rods are going WAY deep into the stud. More than enough to have you drilling into pipes or wiring that is run through the stud center. This can only be used in walls where you know 100% that there is nothing going through the studs in that location.
Damn right.
Personally, if I wanted a high load bearing floating wall shelf, I would just cut the drywall, double the studs, and use a torsion based steel T bracket for the shelf.
@@barryallen5507 I was going to comment the same thing. Cutting drywall would have been easier, and safer. And if it needs to hold more of a load, put more load bearing support... Smh
its not very difficult to know if there is or not. Is why it says Pro version :D
Stud guards?
Thanks! I had built floating shelves while putting up a wall in the first place. With your techniques I can do it the other walls in the room
You teach us about a new great charging option, two different ways to locate studs, two different styles of floating shelves, two different finish options, and test both styles with results and review and do it ALL in only 6 1/2 minutes! Great video! So many other channels could / should learn from you.
2 ways to drill at 90 degrees straight
Bro 💥👊🏾
Man, you get in there, make your points, and don't waste time! So many videos have lengthy preambles or bog down in the middle or take forever to explain something. Bravo, dude.
Thank you! Thank you so much for testing them to the breaking point. I really appreciate it. That is what I want to see. I want to see when they break
I like the alien face on the wood 0:53
When drilling more than 1-1/2" into a stud, be careful, there might be wiring or plumbing going through the center of the stud. If the house was built correctly and inspected before the drywall went up, there should be metal plates covering all wiring or plumbing going through the studs. Unfortunately a lot of DIYers do some crazy stuff and skip the required steps to be up to code.
In my jurisdiction you only need protective plates if the wire or pipe is less than 1 inch from the edge of the stud. Drill deeper than that and there's never any protection.
Be careful how, drill 1.5 inches in, then shine a light and if something shines back - go somewhere else?
Isn't that the whole reason for using the studfinder..since some of them are actually also powercord and copper pipe detectors?
I did not know there were stud finders capable of detecting live wire and pipes, that's super useful. I had some really old stud finders as a kid and have always used the knocking technique instead because they were finicky and annoying to use. You can clearly feel/hear the stud behind the drywall with a light tap from your knuckles.@@jeffreyvanzeijst7932
@@SpectrumOfChange Look at the schematic of the house, you can see all the spots with cables or plumbing, dont be dumb and drill into wires & death, be smart and just look at the piece of paper (or ask the landlord if you dont have it, idk)
If you can find a stud in your wall by looking for “dimples” using your cellphones flashlight…… you got a second rate drywall guy.
He probably put up the wall himself.
Even with top drywall finishing, give it enough time and kids bouncing off the walls, you'll dimple it up.
This is one of the best edited and presented videos in the diy/woodworker sphere. Respect on a great job here!
Nice ideas for the shelves. One tip I have learned when staining the end grain of timber. Spend a bit of time sanding it super fine down to 400+ grit with random orbital sander. It stops it soaking up too much extra stain and looking darker than the rest of the side grain timber.
Wow. Super in depth and well executed. Very impressed. I watch so many diys. This really impressed me.
DIYers, when drilling into walls watch out for wires and pipes, water and gas. Know where your shutoffs for everything are. Usually good construction will put metal plates so you can’t drill through. And there’s convention where they are embedded halfway in the stud so the depth is known. But research this and DIY safely
This is a very important precaution as the time and cost to repair could be very high. The good news is you have maybe 2 or 3 things going through a stud on average at various heights, usually close to floor or ceiling or the height of a wall switch, so you'll probably be lucky and find nothing in the way. But still check!
@Quack The wires should be following code, which means they're going through the center of the stud and give 1 3/8 inches on both sides of the wood. This is done so drywall screws (1 1/4 in.) can safely go into the studs since drywall is 1/2 in. thick + the 1 3/8 in given by the stud. So use the appropriate length screws when going into studs and you should be fine. Pipes on the other hand, you can indeed hit if you mistake one for a stud.
@@OnlyBlix never assume the guy before you knew what they were doing.
I'm in Ontario, Canada. Ontario Building code and ESA code mandates that steel protector plates are only installed whenever there's wires or pipes less than 1-1/4" from the face of any stud or 1-3/4" from the face of 1/2" drywall. This guy is doing excellent work compared to most but one thing he didn't mention is one needs to be cognizant of potential wires/pipes before drilling that deep into studs.
First UA-camr I came across who didn't say "Like the video / Subscribe to the channel" crap in the end of the video! That's Mere Creative I must say 💯
I use a stud finder from time to time but I have used your methods for finding studs for years.
Very accurate, and to be honest, if you get just the right sunlight in a room or use a flashlight at night, you can find all of the studs easily just by looking for screws.
I know people will claim that excellent drywallers will not make mistakes that will make this obvious, but I guess I have never seen excellent drywallers.
If you use a small powerful magnet with a thin piece of cloth to keep you from making marks on your walls, you can also find the nail or screw heads very easily.
Well wish I’d found this a year ago! I did use very similar brackets, when I hung my shelves, but they have a shorter back piece. Great information!!
Great info at a fast pace. No silliness or fluff.
Great demo on showing how strong the sold wood and the shelf brackets amd Rod can be.
Love the testing side of things. You should try a coat of white stain then the walnut stain. It will make a white oak typa color which will look sick.
Is there an example of this in another video? I'd like to see what you're talking about-- sounds awesome.
I think what you’re describing is the very trendy Restoration Hardware a type of wood I’m looking for I wish to see in real life example though!
I need a image reference
Man this is real good stuph. I just discovered your channel and just by watching this first video, I hereby declare that it is de best DIY/craft channel I’ve ever come by. Everything about it: content, production, quirks, style.
I especially appreciate the quick and “natural” way to find studs. Thank you, sir!
If the construction crew knew their craft, there would be no dimples over the stud fasteners, the mudding and sanding should have eliminated the dimples.
I totally agree. And if the drywalls are pro grade, they will have mud all over the wall because that's the only sure way to have no seams of any kind visible through the paint. The wall will have visible imperfections only if it's not sanded after mudding.
100% agree... This part of the video is so wrong... The way he finds stud center by nailing through the wall over and over...*facepalm* Just use a stud finder and that way you'll know if there's nearby electrical wires too. Oh and you won't have to nail 700 holes in your wall.
@@cugsy lmao you must not work with carpenters. For one, the nails he put on the wall are placed so that when yhe shelf goes in, you'll never see it. For 2, ever cabinet guy I know uses that same technique. Pull down some of your cabinets and I'm sure you'll find quite a few holes my friend
@@kyleriesland7863 you're right I don't, I just fix all their botched and rushed work lol
@@cugsy I doubt that lol these guys hang perfect kitchens with 15 or so cabinets in 3 hours. Plumb, level, flush stiles, and crown all installed. Hbu? Botched work lmao what a joke
Architecture IS AMAZING!!! I'M IN LOVE WITH IT! kudos to the video!
This comparison of two ways to do floating shelves is super insightful! It's fascinating to see the different methods and their strengths tested side by side. Your attention to detail and thoroughness in testing make this video really informative for anyone considering floating shelf projects. Thanks for shedding light on the best techniques-it's sure to save us time and effort! 🛠📚👍
Anker are the best cables I have ever seen. it's sad, but in recent years they cost like original apples, but they are much better in quality and do not peel off and do not get dirty.
Good job dude! Best regards from Russia!
Thankkkks for this vidéo. First time that I moved alone and now it’s my time to do these thing
Horses for dummies, great book. I always have a copy at hand on my shelf too
DIY tips, relaxed geek ads, cats, my man has hit the YT creator trifecta
I love this method. I use maple 1” dowel to do this all the time.
A trick I use to place it on the stud is to just cut the drywall out in a small area within the shelfs footprint.
Cutting on the insulation board is very smart. Good tip
Omg, the way you found those studs was genius! Thanks for the new method! =D
the magnet technique for finding studs is so clever 😐
For sure, I agree those yellow stud finders are GARBAAAGGEEEE. I see them and I don't even bother grabbing them to find a stud. I do however like the franklin pro sensors they do okay at finding studs. Often for sale at costco. usually found at other big box stores. Magnet method works great in most cases.
Good stuff. Thanks for the video. Love the ending. Working on my Stormtrooper Star Wars themed bar shelves."Thanks for watching bye."
The re-purposed Sriracha bottle is a nice touch, very professional
@6:07 what boots do you have? They look really nice.
Dude i love the closeout. Thanksforwatchingbye.
1:30 The use of magnet instead of stud finder is pretty clever indeed! In addition to finding the studs, you also find the locations of the screws which is important because you don't want to attach anything too close to existing screw.
its clever if whoever taped the wall is awful at their job. you could also just use a studfinder instead of using a fridge magnet and a nail. This is a pretty classic "work hard not smart" example
@@ThatGuyMata Studfinders rarely have accuracy in millimeters. A magnet can locate screwheads much more accurately and the nail can find the edge of the stud with submillimeter accuracy.
That said, drilling holes with diameter close to 50% of the stud may still be a bad idea for structural integrity of the stud.
@@MikkoRantalainen my studfinder has millimeter accuracy and while a pin magnet might be more accurate, this is quite literally just going to great lengths to over complicate something.
Coming from someone marketing themselves as a "pro", I couldn't find you a single working carpenter right now that would use a magnet and a nail to find studs and trust me I know a shit load of carpenters
@@ThatGuyMata Sounds like I have to get a much better studfinder. Which studfinder do you use if you find that it has millimeter accuracy?
@@MikkoRantalainen my Bosch finder has 0.0625/1.5mm accuracy. I'm sure there are plenty of others in that range
I appreciate that you show your oopsies in your videos. None of this "perfect the first time" BS. :)
Very nice video. That "Thanks for watching bye" at the end as if his parents caught him doing something he wasn't supposd to :p
Hey, have watched and rewatched yo see how far exactly did you drill through on the shelf itself. You say you’re using an 8in rod, but how much did you insert into the shelf?? Thanks
good job! i wonder how it works on brick walls, probably not that great on hollow type bricks and soft type insulation bricks (i don't know the term for those)..
I love the little model to show how the interior of an (American!) wall looks like.
They look very different from all the parts of the world I lived in. We usually use brick or reinforced concrete.
Dude , that phone/magnet trick is genius
Best, simplest idea yet!
Thanks for doing a DIY & Professional Version...Nice Cat BTW. 🐈
I love that flashlight/phone trick.
Hahahahaha I was totally caught off guard by the hastiness in the very end! Great video, and nice, very doable beginner's project. :)
Brilliant... this is exactly what I needed to see. Thank you 😀
Very well explained and demonstrated. LESS THAN SEVEN MINUTES!
I will be putting these shelves in my house here very shortly thanks for a great video
Oh my gosh, thank you so much for saying "regardless" instead of "irregardless" (🤢🤮)
You have now become one of my favorite UA-camrs 🤪
Always love your vids...❤ keep it up
Thank you :)
Them some snazzy looking stronk shelves! Well done dude
How would you make sure you’re not hitting a utility
if you’re drilling deeper than 1.5 inches?
I wonder how wide you can make those shelves before they bend/break
I like the one with the bracket showing. It’s pretty.
Anker products rock! Great price and high quality...nice work !
The second option is so nice
How do the bolts stay in the stud? Simply hammering them in? Then say you want to take them out?
Question about using the threaded rod. Is that material superior to say, using rebar or steal rods? Just curious why you chose that material.
beam strength is defined by the cross sectional area (area moment of inertia), so the round rods are "vertically thicker" than the flat brackets. (the reason for the shape of an I beam). Study hollow beams and cantilevers to solid ones, for those interested
Also determined by the material. All-thread has very little shear strength and the threads are for metal not wood. His results would have been different if he used the same diameter lag bolts or thicker brackets.
I love the threaded rod idea! Very clean, I might try it myself.
Driving nails to find the stud edge is effective but time consuming. I recommend investing in a Franklin Precision stud finder. They show you the entire stud so you can find the center in seconds. Game changer.
love the Siracha bottle for the linseed oil.
The "thanksforwatchingbye" At the end made me laugh 🤣 anyway, you inspired me to mount a PRO shelf in my bathroom... cheers!
New to your channel. I was enjoying how your videos are so concise and without any waffle, but then joke about the stud finder did make me chuckle. Look forward to seeing more content, great video so far.
Great vid. Got me all hyped to build a shelf. Alltho i wont but ill save the vid.
Both these methods will definitely hold my Desktop PC on a wall
Why threaded rods vs just plain steel rods? Do you think the threads give some friction and therefore hold better? Thanks.
Thanks for the ideas!
I was thinking about floating shelves 3 hours ago. Now I see this video. What a coincidence.
hi this was very very helpful but where can I buy that wood and what size Is that? please
Hello, random question but what kind of boots are you wearing in this video? I have been looking for something like those. Thanks
Grade 8.8 bolts: Also known as structural grade bolts, they are typically made of steel and plated with several coatings.
Grade 10.9 bolts: As these bolts are most often used in the automotive industry, they are also referred to as ‘car bolts’. They are made of boron or carbon steel and have high tensile strength (1040 MPa).
Grade 12.9 bolts: Known for their strength, these bolts are most often used in the manufacturing and construction industries to join medium or heavy industrial parts such as an automotive engine.
Grade 14.9 bolts: It's simple: these are the most durable bolts you can use in your application. Perfect to join large structural elements to each other, the grade 14.9 bolt has a whopping maximum tensile strength of 1400 MPa. igh tensile rods.
Thanks. I want shelves my cats can jump up on and run around for years. Watched s video person didn't put brackets into studs. Looked awesome! Lol for a few weeks. I don't want to do that error!!
Allthread is fairly soft steel, give SS threaded or even better smooth SS 1/2" rod. Spring steel too. Thanks for the demonstration!
I really liked this! I’ve seen a lot of videos on doing floating shelves and I appreciate your forward straight to the point! Rebar might be cheaper and maybe stronger. From what I’ve seen. Thanks for the video!
just the video I needed to watch. thanks!
REAL TALK!!! Using a magnet to find the screw's... I just had a paradigm shift!! Both my stud finders fail me at times.
the best 👉🏻Crist Zon 👈🏻 on UA-cam
The fire retardant in XPS dust is not safe to breathe. It's safe to cut with a utility knife (as with normal insulation jobs), but you might want to find another material to protect your workbench (e.g., plywood) from a circular saw. I like the shelf method though, especially for wall areas that aren't likely to have plumbing or electrical running through them.
To be fair, wood dust isn't safe to breathe either. But insulation is far worse.
Anker cables last so long its amazing
Thank you. Hoping for more tutorials!
I agree with you, anker product is quality.
Cool vid bro, great work! Entertaining and useful! 😁🙌🏾👍🏾
Dude..great vid bro
Nice. But why did you chamfer the inside edge for the first shelve....
How far did you drill into the studs??? Anything over 1.25" is a no go. The middle of the stud is where pipes and wires are run during construction.
Very good work, man ! Keep it up !
Great job on this video. Bravo!
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In my country we make our houses out of concrete or bricks, so we just drill anywhere we want. and we're not afraid of linseed oil fires.
@@rafewheadon1963 Awesome, thanks for sharing :)
Hey drill bit sold out can you give me another link please
Assalamualaikum brother
Time for a fresh fade at the barbershop
how much did you weigh when you jumped on the shelf? Why not stack heavy objects until failure?
Imagine not living in europe with solid stone walls.
Nice vid, I had a lot of fun watching it
Awesome video man
What size drill bit did you use?
Whats the difference when using L brackets of mounting them up or down ie 7 or L? Which way is stronger and why?
nice and concise explanations - thank youuuu
I like how you showed the strength. Thanks
You could use a higher tensile strength steel rod to get even better results, or even rebar. Awesome vid by the way.
Fuck it. Just build a house around the shelf with rebar inside reinforced concrete.
I have used rebar, both into wood studs but also masonry. I then use a quality anchoring epoxy. Never had a problem
The power of actual drilling into studs instead of drywall anchors
Well done
Could those brackets hold a pc case that weighs ~40lbs to a concrete wall with wedge anchors?
Great video! Easy to understand, short and to the point!