Strong Floating Shelves - The Strongest Option
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- Опубліковано 31 тра 2024
- First video on Strong Floating Shelves:
• Strong Floating Shelves
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After experimenting with floating shelves for several years now, I've found ways to make them strong using lag bolts and wooden dowels. But the strongest option yet that I explore in this video uses 5/8 inch steel all thread rods as shelf supports for floating shelves. Wood works fine, but it doesn't really compare to the strength that you get with steel rods. - Навчання та стиль
Man after using a drill guide, laser level, and regular levels I still couldnt get my toilet paper dispenser to be perfectly level - off by a hair. This guy builds his own drill guide, uses the biggest drill bit I've seen, and gets those monster steel all thread rods dead on perfectly level. A true craftsman.
A little lucky on that one, dkny! Haven't nailed one like that since! Thanks for watching!
Props to the first person to install these in their garage. And then put tiny undersized L brackets on them just to mess with people. You KNOW you want to.
I was thinking the same thing. Plastic ones.
Haha There's a special place in hell for people like you! ;)
use card board to make the brackets and staple them in lol
LOL, genius :) Have one L bracket hanging askew from the shelf, where the wall screws tore out of the drywall.
that is totally hilarious!!! Never thought of doing that....2 snaps up and a bag of chips!!!!
Thanks for not editing out the first two attempts at drilling the holes. So much more relatable now to watch... ;)
Honestly! Before the scene cut, you can sorta hear him huff into a chuckle. Very relatable...
Yeah, my luck, EVERYTIME i start a project, I hit a nail/screw...
That's probably right before I said something a little too "relatable" that I couldn't leave in the video, Matthew!
Yep, Jelte! The more we work with tools, the more we understand that stuff like that is going to happen all the time!
Literally subscribed because of the truth.
Rumors have it he's still lowering the shelf to this day to avoid random screws and nails in the way.
He's beginning to irritate the nuclear mole people from the center of the earth as well.
Ha,ha,ha,ha,
This woodworking book is really detailed, t.co/SGIXIPXR0z ! With the aid of this plan, I was able to use words, drawings, real images and different diagrams. It is really an informative product. I am presently making furniture together with my brother and thanks to this product, I feel like helping him is possible.?
@@christopherking5076 Another Ted Link. The one who goes around the web stealing plans from other woodworkers. You need to realize, all true woodworkers don't like Ted. Just thought you might want to know.
Funny
I like how you show little mistakes or unexpected difficulties and how you then adapt.
Yep, there are always mistakes and challenges Duke! Sometimes it seems like all day long, all I do is adapt and improvise! Thanks for your comment!
A magnet will help tremendously when locating screws and nails. I've been using a telescopic and rare earth magnets for years. By locating the screws, you will, by default, locate the studs. Just move the mag vertically and horizontally.
That all works until the wife says can't you make it....
Formidable..
Oh... how quickly that frustration can grow. Lol
I've found many times, that a strong small magnet will help you avoid running into screws and nails under drywall.
Been using threaded rods for a long time to install shelves but especially floating mantles such as mesquite timbers. This makes very stout mountings. I usually after the rods are installed make a slight bend in them at an upward and outward angle so that it creates a tension on the holes in the mantle so that I don’t have to use epoxy in case it ever needs to be removed in the future. Then I use a small screw to contact the threads like a set screw to keep from slipping off.
Probably one of the most knowledgeable and experienced carpenters I’ve seen. He doesn’t just know about woodwork, but he has an idea about everything so he can work his way around all trades. This is how a real boss gets things done
Thanks for your comment, Timothy. I worked for a builder in Abilene, TX when I first got involved in construction in my early 20s named Noel Smith. He and his brothers were painters by trade. He and his sons framed every house he built, ran all the trim and could step in to any trade as needed to make sure the job kept moving. I set all of his tile, installed laminate on kitchen countertops and laid all his vinyl and wood flooring. These were the normal finish materials at that time in the 70s. I always viewed him as a mechanical genius and figured it was probably a good idea that I learn as much as I could from Noel and people like him. Most of the time it was me asking him questions about various trades, but there were also those few occasions that he asked me to explain something that I was doing and that always made me proud! One day he walked into a bathroom where I was setting tile and tossed me a key. In his gruff voice, he said that was a key to his shop at his home and that I could use it anytime I needed space or tools that I didn't have. Great guy that I learned a lot from. He was the real boss who knew how to get things done!
Showing the entire process including the errors convinced me to subscribe. I look forward to watching more.
Great to have you, Cloudy Eight! I rarely have any job that goes perfectly and my guess is few others do either! Thanks for your comment and for watching!
@@RustyDobbs My dad always said, and this is true today as it was 50 years ago, its not the mistake that makes you good or lack of but how you deal with one that makes you really good. if you do not show or talk about it and they can't find one your super good.
Your dad was right, Bob! It's very rare that everything goes right on a job. The really good craftsmen are the ones who can fix those mistakes so that no one can tell any difference.
“Honey, I got the shelves in the garage done!”
“Great! Now come in the kitchen and cut the ends of the bolts sticking out of the microwave.”
Seriously though, it looks good.
LOL
I love that you showed the issues with running the holes. I’m a Handyman and these little things happen often and you gotta make decisions and adjust the plan sometimes
Great idea! Looking forward to trying it out. I AM SO Happy to see that OTHER people also have issues with drilling into walls from time to time. I can now feel normal again. TY
I am glad you showed the frustrating process of drilling through sheetrock and into studs. Crap like that never go as planned.
You are right about that! Always good have a plan B in construction because you are probably going to need it!
My Dad loves to say "there's no such thing as over-engineered." And I am my father's son... I like that shelf! If a car crashes into that wall, you know that shelf is there to protect you. :-)
Bando Bando that may be taking it too far
@1234 chill.
I'm sure @1234 wrote that from a library computer. After the long arduous trek from his tent in the woods. Living without using over engineered things is not easy.
Nope! That wall it's been compromised.. The two studs are weak and probably shelve rod will impale you right on the head if you are seating close around! 😳🙄😁.. Just kidding! But truly we live in a universe of predetermined circumstances we just don't know it!
Hahaha...my wife calls me ‘Overkill Bill’! But I say ‘no-one ever died from overkill!!’
I love it when people admit they were wrong. Kudos!
We hang heavy solid wood mantels and large shelves in a similar manner... Instead of all-thread-rod we put large lag screws into the studs then cut off the head. Does the same thing as what you've done just faster and with more appropriate aggressive threads.
Yes, Chris, I have had a number of contractors comment that they do what you do or have some rendition of that idea that they use. No doubt switching to some sort of metal rods makes a huge difference in strength over other methods I have explored. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I am looking to install three 17" deep floating shelves on both sides of a fireplace/TV surround I built. When you drill holes in the studs for the lag screws, how do you ensure the lag screws are straight (90 degrees on all sides), so that the shelves are level and the screws go into shelf with ease? Please forgive my beginner ignorance. I am a weekend DIYer. Thank you.
@@joelflowers1361 typically just throw a short torpedo level on top of the drill to ensure its level just before drilling a hole. Once the lags are in to the appropriate depth we used a rubber mallet to tweak them if needed... An alternative is to use brackets from companies like RightOn Bracket or UltraShelf
Thanks so much for this video! Going straight into the studs is brilliant! And the solid wood shelf option will produce the exact look we want for our future kitchen remodel. We so enjoyed your down-to-earth presentation of the process and will definitely check out your other videos! We totally love to DIY not only for the cost savings but also for the fun of exercising our creativity. We're always on the lookout for handy tips and tricks. So glad we found your video!
Thanks so much for watching, Shelley! I'm glad you're finding this video helpful for your own kitchen remodel! I always enjoy hearing from people like you who take on projects of their own. And you are right, there is a lot of fun in exercising our creativity by doing projects like these! I appreciate your comments!
To help keep your last floating shelf from sliding out:
Your rods should be drilled at a slight angle down. That way the rods come out of the wall slightly tilting up. Then drill the shelf board at that same angle so it sits flush to the wall. Any weight on the shelf will push the shelf back towards the wall.
Bet after a year you are still trying to get all that to line up properly. Yeah your idea would work but good luck making that come out straight
I use these rods to set posts for stairs and hand rails, protect the threads with a bolt and with a hammer you can bend it slightly to make it plumb or level if it isnt to start with.
Great video, I did floating shelves the hard way, I opened up the wall and put 2" flat stock with rods welded to them, sheet rock over the metal and hole in shelf. My new house I'm going to use your all thread plan. Thank you.
Probably the correct way, boring out studs is a bit dicey, replacing a stud is no small task.
3/16" to 1/4" thick flat stock does a great job at supporting a floating shelf. Measure to the appropriate shelf length, add the depth of the shelf at both ends and either bend both ends to 90° or cut and weld. Drill counter sunk holes at the stud locations and install on wall. A traditional floating shelf will slip on over the whole issue but I like cutting solid wood to slip in between both ends for a more industrial look.
OMG I can picture myself in this situation throwing up my hands and yelling "COME ON!!!!" 😹
Yes, Shojo, off-camera I'm sure I said "Come on" and a few other choice words too!
Been there, done that.
@@fredbecker607 And you'll do it more later!
That last board at the end looks great. You could sink a washer and nut at the end, and then plug the hole with a wooden plug, or add a piece of trim to the front.
Or just glue it in ??
Rusty,
LOVE you explanation and your attention to detail. Fantastic video!!!! So helpful!
You are the only guy who shows problems and fixes that real life people run into, not to mention how well you explain everything. I am a 74 yo cool woman who appreciates a man who knows which end of the hammer to hold, thank you!!
Made my day, Country Barnert! I'll bet you are a character and are also very cool!
Great job on those floating shelves! I'm glad you left those mistakes you made on the video; that way we can also do what you did to fix them. I'm sure it'll happen to me.
Thanks for this idea and thanks for not editing out when things go awry. Some videos take this stuff out and gives a false impression. Great video.
As an architect. I love your passion and wish i worked with contractors like you everytime !!!!
Just there to make things easier and solve problems.
Love it great job
Thanks for your comment, Paul! Interestingly enough, I ended up having a good relationship with every architect I worked with, I think? We may have just gotten lucky, too!
Watched this to prep for my floating shelf. Knew all threads was the answer..just needed someone to put into practice. Thank you for taking the time and effort to make this video!!!
Thanks, how2q! I appreciate your comment! Looks like you also understand the time and effort involved in making videos. Good luck with your channel!
Yes UA-cam, I am interested in Strong Floating Shelves, The Strongest Option.
How did you know?
Yeah Cain 🍪
Who isn't?
Because solipsism
I’ve been building for 20 years and never had good results with zircon. Best results so far have been stud finders from Costco
@blogan1200 I just actually bought one from Sam's Club a couple of months ago and it works great, too! It's a Sapphire 7500 by Franklin Sensors. I share your opinion of Zircon.🙂
Very cool video and I learned a lot! I've hung storm water leaders in condominiums which literally weighs multiple tons, my journey man taught me to use concrete inserts which 1/2" and up threaded rod is threaded into, then to prevent the malleable steel rods from bending downward we slip a small diameter black steel pipe (same ones used for pipe threading) over the rod and use a appropriately sized nut and washer to keep it in place. The weaker malleable threaded rod becomes as strong as steel pipe. I've seen industrial pumps weighing God knows how much supported like that. This method would 100% screw up drywall though so whatever they steel pipe is incontact with must be able to take the sideways load and not crush the wall. You would probably need like a escutcheon plate to make it look clean on drywall, I've only done it into concrete but slipping steel pipe over the rods is WORTH CHECKING OUT TRUST ME!!!!!!!!!!!
Thankyou for teaching me a great way to diy a strong floating shelf! I really enjoyed the video, and i cant wait to get started!
Way to go Rusty! This is by far the best idea I have seen yet. I am grateful for the work you have put in for all of us!
Thanks, Nick! I appreciate you watching!
This is awesome rusty, I’ve done some like you’re standard design. I love the simplicity of the threaded rod!
Thanks, Trevor! Yeah, I was real pleased with the simplicity of how it all can work. If I weren't talking and explaining the process in the video, I could've installed the rods in just a few minutes.
I did a job where i installed a 3/4 x 10 x 18 foot floating shelf in a kitchen once. because i was doing the gut reno on the entire kitchen i installed 10x10 quarter inch steel angles on the studs before sheetrock. the shelf was scribed to the finished wall and morticed on to the brackets perfectly tight and level. it was so strong you could stand on it.
not my trick, i learned it from an old timer.
Great tutorial, Rusty! Great speaking voice/pace; cool design too.
The underlying principle is "torsion box" construction. If you'll research this principle via YT and Google, you'll see some amazing, light weight shelves and tables tops. It is how hollow core doors get their strength.
Thanks for the video.
ikea products
I subscribed when I saw your first floating shelf video and never expected you to create a stronger version!
Curiosity gets the better of me sometimes, John, and I have to try something new! Plus people suggest other design ideas that sometimes I like to try out. Always good to hear from you!
Hitting screws TWICE makes this a most real world video. Thank you! Be well.
Thanks, M! Yes, it was such a ridiculous coincidence to have that happen that people immediately relate to it. Something like that has happened them or they imagine that would be just their luck! Hey, thanks for watching!
OMGness . . . so helpful! Thank you for sharing your experience and leaving the bloopers in for us to learn from! Much appreciated!
Happy to do it, Amanda. Thanks for watching!
The part where you are trying to drill is absolutely what everyone runs into lol
Unless you use a Greenlee nail-eater auger.
You need to sell that threaded rod handle on line. I'd buy one. Also, with my luck, I would hit the electrical wiring on my first attempt and then the copper water line on my second. On the third attempt I would hit the gas line.
*my third and final attemp.. lol
Me too - Rusty, have your relative sell them - I'd pay for one today in 3/4", 1/2" and 3/8" (I make diff size shelves.) (I don't own the equipment to weld, nor want to mess around with figuring out how to weld.)
Same. I don't have the equipment to make the rod handle. If you decide to make some and sell me us know.
I’ll take one too!! I would like to try this method instead of hoping something off of Amazon will suffice.
And then hopefully you end up in heaven..😉
Well done! Very solid approach for shelving. Will be using this technique in the future for sure.
I have worked with wood & metal taps for 40 years, also althread. I never would have thought to use althread as self tapping screws.
Thanks, I will have to try this option myself.
First time ever watching one of your videos. I subbed. I will definitely use this approach in the future. I hate those stupid L brackets for holding shelves.
Hey, menchelke! Thanks for watching and I appreciate you subscribing! Hope this approach works out well for you!
i lost it when you said ''i couldve pulled the screw but i was getting irritated'' so relatable lol
Yep, we've all been there, Alexis!
Thanks Rusty! I built floating shelves for my wife's quilting studio using your basic ideas and wow is she impressed as well is her sew and sew club girls. Happy wife, happy life.
You are right about the “happy wife” comment, Crackerjack! I’m really glad to hear that you were able to make this basic approach work for your situation! Thanks for watching and for your comment!
Thank you for sharing your detailed findings for others to benefit.
This is very interesting! I have a location where I want to put up some floating shelves; but I have full access to the (bare) studs behind (a storage area that has flake board walls). I think using the threaded rods going all the way through the studs with a recessed nut behind it would take this idea to 11. Then I can do something like every other stud, threaded rod, lag bolt, threaded rod, etc. (Looking at an ~8' section.
I’ve always bought 12” lag screws and cut the hex heads off after. Same idea. I use a drill and a jig to keep them vertical.
Sounds like a good approach, Stoph! Thanks for your comment!
That's how I installed a floating mantel for a client! Used 5, 1/2" lags, and a cheap drill press attachment for my drill. Worked great!
Yup same here, I’ve used lags before to for mantels and shelves.
I like your approach better, I feel the coarser threads of a lag screw would be better suited for this application
With the lag bolt approach, the strength comes from it being threaded into the stud. With a floating shelf there is a lever action trying to pull the lag bolt out of the stud. With the all thread approach most of the strength comes from the threaded rod resisting being bent. The nuts only keep the shelf tight to the wall. I used a similar approach the fix down my stair railing end posts.
I experimented with this as well! My kitchen shelves are 2x3 brackets with a 2x3 frame that is covered in a 1/4" ply. love this and I may attempt the all-thread approach. Thanks!
That is some great deductive, adaptive thinking, resulting in a very durable product. I love shelves, and I especially love STRONG shelves. This is the strongest floating shelf design I have ever seen. Great work. Subscribed.
Hey thanks, 42lookc! I hope this works out well for you when you decide to try them! Yeah, I have experimented with lots of different approaches to floating shelves and have done a number of videos on different strength tests I've tried, but that was all with wood. Introducing the steel all threads changes the whole game completely. I haven't tried a three-quarter inch all thread, but I can only imagine the additional size adds another strength dimension to the mix. I appreciate you watching and thanks for your subscription, too!
I like the homemade tap & handle. Good stuff!
FYI I would have installed flat washers prior to the nuts to secure the shelving frame to the wall. Just a fan of flat washers. At the 12:38 minute of the video.
I've been watching a lot of video of tiny homes. The solid shelf at the end of this video made me think of stair steps. ❤🌅🌵
I feel your pain, your determination and your ingenuity. The unluck of that spot in the studs would be very frustrating. The "T" tool is great, add a hex nut to the top center. Then hand start and use a drill to speed that up. Great work, quite strong. Good job. You know how to finish drywall too. Minimal sanding!
I never pick up my stud finder anymore after buying a couple of 1/2" neodymium magnets. I wrap them in blue painters tape and leave them on my air compressor. They find nails/screws very easily and I can leave them on the wall without making a mark and I'll still know where the stud is.
It also helps me to know when there's a metal plate or screw where I'm trying to drill/fasten.
Actually, you'll know where the drywall guy just barely threaded into the stud. Try to put a larger fastener there, and the stud breaks.
@@unclebedhead9099 so true, though the stud finder can do that to you too. That's why if you're going to put a big rod/bolt in, you would need to verify the sides with a screw (it will all be hidden anyways).
It was good to see him open up the wall a bit to verify there was no electrical going through that stud, though a smaller hole would have been sufficient and no need to patch.
@@MyFortressConstruction - To add to your smaller hole would be sufficient, one would note the scope cameras that light up and can see all up inside a wall that some pros have acquired for their toolboxes.
Would also like to defend the stud detector he is using as well. I got the same one from Lowes and it does an excellent job of showing you the left and right sides of the stud. If you take your time, you can mark both sides and determine the center of the stud. Which, if you drill where you "think" is dead center, can't you take a tiny nail and test the left and right side of where your hole would be drilled to "verify" that in fact you are center? I'm not a pro, so please keep that in mind before you educate me! I don't verify much. I gamble and for the most part, I have better luck than if I were to go to Vegas! Other than tools and parts jumping out of my hand and I have to play fetch often during my projects, that is...
@@kennyhalsey961 Yep, you're definitely thinking in the right direction. A small boroscope off of eBay is cheap and could save you from electrocution or a plumbing leak, however, I find that I can see without one 99% of the time. Using a nail to find the sides of the studs would also work like a screw. And I wasn't saying a stud finder isn't a useful tool, it can just be mis-calibrated, run out of batteries and take longer than a simple rare earth magnet.
Sounds like you're thinking through things so keep on keeping on, and I'm sure those tools will stop jumping out of your hands eventually. 😉
Great idea, Fortress! And to keep them on an air compressor or some other metal piece that you have with you all the time out on jobs would keep them handy when needed. Thanks for passing on the idea!
On solid pieces of wood I’ve used long lag bolts. Cut the head off after installing them on the wall. Drill holes on the shelf. Fill holes with apoxy and slide it on
I don't enjoy any of my many subscribed pros more than you Mr Dobbs. I did a variant with 5/8" oak dowels but yours is the mountain top! Thank you sharing.
Thanks so much for the nice comment, Mark! Encouragement like yours helps make it worth the effort to do these videos! Yeah, I have done floating shelf strength test videos with 5/8" oak dowels and they work great as well. After trying the threaded steel rods, though, I think I am a convert to use them going forward. But, I still need to tweak my approaches for building and attaching the shelves. Thanks again for watching!
I like this idea. I will definitely be using this method for future projects, my own as well as for customers. Also will use for material storage shelves. Lumber, molding, ect. In the shop. Thanks for the great idea. You have just set a new standard in floating shelf install methods!👌
Thanks for your comment, Nicholas! I appreciate it! I definitely think it has good applications for storage shelves in the shop, too. Thanks for watching!
Instead of using a set screw, you could use an small diameter dowel pin, that way the original wood look isn't marred by a set screw. Also, a dowel pin enables you to simply drill out the pin if removal gets tricky years from now.
A more permanent solution is to simply glue the shelf into place, as the threads will act as perfect glue grips.
Good ideas, Domush! Thanks for passing them along and for watching!
Or add a drop of silicone to the hole before you slide the shelf to the wall. Then you could yank it off if you ever wanted to remove it.
I’ve built a few floating shelves over the years. The thread rod is a great idea. Myself I wouldn’t worry so much about getting them exact perfect. As the would be inside the self framing anyway.
As for sending the rod in. I’d pilot with a slightly smaller diameter drill bit, then use an impact drill with double nut and lock washer to implant into studs.
Thanks for the rod idea though. Makes total sense for max weight.
BBQchickenxlrg Is here great idea!
Are,your studs not behind drywall? Otherwise, can you explain how you get the lock nuts and washer past the drywall. Also, how do you use an impact wrench to put the threaded rod in? I cant visualize it. Thanks in advance.
@@mrkoolio8494 I think he's saying that the two nuts and lock washer are the end that he's using the impact drill on, so he has something to put in a socket fitting of some kind. They aren't going into the wall, just used to spin all thread into the wall.
Thanks for sharing Rusty,
Informative and methodical video,
Easy to watch.
Helpful, to hear your commentary on the processes leading to each stage of the project.
Finally! I found a guy who's got about as much bad luck as I do. But persistence prevails! Thank you for showing your challenges and their solutions. Learned sooooo freakin' much on this one video! You rock, my friend!
Hello Rusty, now that is a sweet job, my American neighbor. Great video thanks. Kind regards Danny UK
Great to hear from you, Danny! Regards to you as well! I appreciate you watching in the UK and thanks for your comment!
@@RustyDobbs Hey Rusty, your welcome 😉👍
To explore my walls and avoid wires, I've been using these $35 endoscopes you can get on Amazon and elsewhere. Your smartphone acts as the screen. You need to drill a 3/8" hole in the wall and insert the camera. With a bit of maneuvering, you can see most everything you need behind the wall. Repairing the wall is a snap.
You know, Brent, I have seen that sort of thing advertised a lot but have never thought about getting one, yet I have the need for it routinely. I think I’m going to follow your lead and check into it! Thanks for watching and for the suggestion!
You can also detect what' s behind walls using a thermal imaging camera. Blackview now make rugged phones with thermal detection! ...So relieved that I'm not the only one drilling 500 holes before securing stuff; only to discover it's a blinking dot n' dab wall with zero studs!!
@@MappingAmy Thermal imagers will only work with with locating things other than studs if they are also touching the drywall and have a sufficient heat differential to be detected, or are cold or hot enough to be significantly changing the temperature in the gap between the studs. Otherwise the endoscope is the way to go.
Great concept. Glad you are not shelfish and happy to share this with us. Very level headed and lateral thinking.
Screw anyone who complains about the extra holes. They should go and complain in a different thread all together.
Thanks for watching and I appreciate the comment!
Many thanks for sharing your expertise. Well done too for showing the unforeseen setbacks we find but rarely get informed about.
Thanks for your comment, Glenn! Yes, it was pretty hard to work around a couple of buried objects in the wall and not tell on you guys about it!
IKEA in Europe has something similar for brick and mortar installations. Also, if you use two bolts to tension the rod between the front and the back of the shelf you can improve the torsional properties of the shelf under heavy load. Additionally a threaded insert can be used instead of threading the wood beam but I understand it increases cost and complexity.
I mis understand how the wood is able to be threaded like that especially with machine threading on the rod? Just curious how that would even holdb
@@ethanschutz6092 the stud is a soft wood. The pilot hole is 1/16 inch smaller diameter than the all thread and the metal threads can thread into the soft wood with sufficient force while turning the handle
We use big lag bolts and cut the heads off after they are ran in.
817 MS damn, that’s genius!!!!
Redi rod is quite a bit cheaper than lag bolts.
@@mikeedmonton6841 really depends on where you buy. We have some online shops who sell them very cheaply here in the Netherlands. Threaded bars are quite hard to find unless you go to the professional stores (you have to be a business owner to shop there). And hardware stores similar to the homeless deathspot are crazy expensive here. So for the average consumer it's probably cheaper and easier to buy bolts
I remember suggesting the steel rods on another video about a year ago glad to see a follow up and application great video and content for those learning as always Rusty keep up the good work
Yeah, Zixq, I just tried to search for the comment you are referring to but unfortunately UA-cam's search functions on comments are not as robust an you might think they would be. I remember getting several comments from people in the general vein of this type of application and ultimately, to me, the heavier duty threaded rods like in this video make the most sense for floating shelves, so thanks for your input. When you stop to think about it, it's about as simple and straightforward an idea as one could come up with! You have to be a little more creative when it comes to designing shelves for the rods over brackets mounted to the wall, but the strength of the rods is much better. Good to hear from you, and thanks for the comment!
This is absolutely the real world and solution-THANKS FOR THIS VIDEO.
Thanks for your comment and for watching, Ray! I appreciate it!
Great idea. I highly suggest an impact gun. I imagine a 3/4 socket would fit.
This is perfect. I'd like to do something similar but on a steel framed house.
Rigg Amore cut away the material covering the supports and hire a guy to weld two threaded rods up. , or get a little welder and do it yourself.
Thanks, Rigg! I appreciate you watching! I wish working with steel framing was as easy as working with wood when installing floating shelves!
You gave a different viewpoint an open mind and then confidently said the word flip flop? Your my new hero, subbed
Great to have you, Steve! Yeah, exploring floating shelf ideas has been an eye opening experience for me!
Just wanted to stop in a say this video inspired my floating shelves. Me and the ole' lady went back and forth on ideas and my first attempt using dowels didn't pan out. I just finished drilling twelve 7/16" holes into studs for 1/2" x 10" hex bolts. They threaded in tight and current testing shows the shelf will take 50lbs no problem. Thanks Rusty for the idea!
Thanks for checking in, DP! I appreciate it. Yeah, lots of contractors have commented about using long lag bolts and cutting off the heads which also works. Thanks for sharing your experience!
@@RustyDobbs The only reason I used bolts was because finding allthread was not panning out for me. In the end it worked a treat and the wife is happy which makes me happy. Haha
Wish I could send ya some pics, I think you'd like them.
Post tensioning would really exploit the potential of all the elements here. His shelf framing would work perfectly in compression.
Those all thread rods are in bending...and they will always be in bending no matter how much you tension them. I don't see how post tensioning would benefit a cantilevered system.
What exactly did you have in mind that I'm not seeing?
@@internettoughguyCurrently only the top of the threaded rod is taking the stretch. Any time you bend some thing you have a stretching side and a crushing side. The thing about steel is it is springy so it gets more resistive to stretching the more you stretch it. So if you design in some nuts that can stretch the all thread against the frame and studs before you load the shelf then the shelf will hold more weight before it bends. The full diameter of the bolt will take the tension and the frame and drywall takes the compression load. As opposed to currently where the bolts just bend and slip out of their sockets. You will have to design a box to cover all of this, if you want to. And that is what we carpenters do to make things look like magic. Thanks for asking.
A similar phenomenon will happen to the wood and drywall. As you compress it it will compact and become harder so there is less deformation if you preload the contact surface. Therefore you will observe a stiffer cantilever.
@@markharmon4963 strong cantilever Anything is of interest to me. Thanks!
@@markharmon4963 With respect I disagree. That won't happen in this context. By applying tension to the rods you will reduce the compression stress on the bottom fibers but the total stress in the rod will increase. The deflection will not change. The shelf will be just stiff as if you never applied any tension. I'm ignoring the drywall and frame as they are soft materials.
If we assume a 100 lb downward load at the tip of one rod and the rod is cantilever from the frame 12"...it will see about 50000psi peak tension stress and about 47000 psi compression stress on the bottom fibers. Deflection is about .424in.
Applying 3000 lb of tension to the same rod with the same downward 100 lb load results in a peak tension stress of about 60000psi but the compression stress on the bottom fibers has been reduced to about 38000psi. Deflection remains at .424in
Since the deflection remains the same you will not observe any change in stiffness.
If you're interested see pics below:
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I'm more than just a pretty face. Cheers.
Good job! The shelves are very nice and creative!
Thanks so much for watching and for your comment, Do Go! I'm really impressed with your furniture designs as well! You do great work!
Thank you for sharing. It is a great ideal for a shelf without seeing the bottom supports. Very beautiful, my project this weekend
You may have already completed your project, VinnY H, before I got a chance to reply! Hope it turned out well! Thanks for the comment!
Love the use of CAD program graphics! Subscribed!
:)...It's tough being a trailblazer......:)...As a remodeling contractor for 30 years; I know the feeling of having to go to plan B, C, D - ZZ etc......:) - sometimes...
Use a really strong magnet to figure out if the place you wanted to drill on has a nail or screw.
signupisannoying absolutely, this method is tried and tested for drywall screws. That deeper screw though, might require either a trained touch or a very very strong magnet
Or steel wool.
@@HeyCesarA4 steel wool? How?
@@HeyCesarA4 how do u use the steel wool? Please.
Yes please, explain using steel wool
This method, along with "Easy DIY Jig for Drilling Floating Shelf Holes", made this job a breeze. by the third one I had refined the jigs and method. By the third shelf we were pros. Thanks man!
Glad you had a good experience with this approach, Tim! Thanks for your comment!
Thanks! Like the down to earth approach that includes all the problems we encounter -- including the frustration :D
I just want to say thank you I saw this video last ysar and since have installed floating shelves for several customers using this method. So far nothing but great feed back from them. Again thanks for this
Thanks so much for your comment, Jesus! I’m glad to see this method worked out so well for you. I’m sure you have found that once you get used to it, it’s really a very quick install process too. Best of luck to you in your business!
I tried this exact method of floating shelves in my kitchen about two years ago. Incredibly strong and incredibly frustrating to get everything to line up correctly.
You made it look easy, excellent tutorial with lots of excellent tips to handle the alignment issues I struggled with.
I had to have someone suggest it to me or I'm not sure I would have ever snapped to it on my own! But it really is a great setup for floating shelves. Thanks for your comment and for watching, Gordon!
I think overall strength would increase significantly if there were another nut on the allthread near the end, which would compress the wood structure and couple the two together better.
I had a similar thought - the shelf retention into the wall is limited by the strength of 3 1/2" of wooden threads. Just can't think of an elegant way to sneak a nut back there given there's probably another wall of some kind on the other side. The simplest might be some sort of adhesive so the metal is bonded to the full wood surface or treat tapped hole with some wood hardener to give the threads a better chance.
At some point all this becomes more effort than its worth and you just need a tapped insert...
@@TestSpaceMonkey oh I was thinking about the front edge, not inside the wall. But you do raise a good point. If one is willing to ruin their wall a little bit, they could embed a nut into the stud. I don't think there's a lot to be gained though.
@@TestSpaceMonkey Tapped rod insert in stud would defo be the ultimate approach. With recessed nut at the shelf edge tightened to introduce some torsional strength, covered with a wooden plug, glued and sanded in line with the grain. Pitty the fool who has to disassemble that in years to come, especially if painted!
Enjoyed reading the line of thinking, oobligah, that you and @PointLineBox were taking on this idea! All I would add is that I ultimately think about how much weight is going to be on one of the shelves, realistically. This method using the all thread rods probably gives me 3 to 4 times or more capacity of weight than I would ever consider even putting on a shelf. But the selling point for me is if I'm just drilling holes and installing the rods and not talking about what I'm doing, I can do that faster than pretty much any way I can think of otherwise. Thanks to both of you for watching and commenting!
Thanks for making it real and showing us how to deal with the issues that we never see on home improvement shows.
Thanks for watching, Clfdriven! Yeah, my issues on this video would have been pretty difficult to edit out, so I am glad you appreciate the reality of what happens in real life, every day!
Thanks for the update! I installed a few in my old house after your previous videos, they worked like a charm. I want to incorporate some in my new (old) home, will probably go the all-thread route after seeing you work through the issues. Since I'm going through plaster and lath, and haven't yet determined whether they were uniform in spacing the studs, it may be a project I tackle down the road after doing some exploration first. Anyways, Thanks for another informative video!
Thanks, Smidge, I appreciate the comment! Yeah, the previous methods work great as well, but if you can find the studs and miss the wiring, this method is really easy. I still have some work to do on the actual shelf construction to streamline that some, but I'm probably a convert to this in most cases. Thanks for watching!
Theoretically you could crank on the rods a little if they weren’t perfectly level too
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"WOW"
Whatsup judi? Which state u in? Mr.caribbean in nyc ( email:guitarpiano@aol.com
Going to use this approach in my garage., thanks for this outstanding option....
Thank you for sharing your experience with this great idea and the thorough explanation of your process. You have a great narrating voice!
I’ve also many times over been the lucky recipient of finding surprise screws in the drywall/stud. To at least avoid drywall screws, I began using a low-tech magnetic stud finder in addition to the digital stud finder to locate the drywall screws and make sure they’re not an obstacle where I’m drilling. It’s a simple practice I wish I thought of sooner to avoid unnecessary frustration. For deeper obstructions, I drill smaller pilot holes to see if I encounter anything and if I do, then can simply spackle the small hole rather than deal with a larger hole.
Thanks for watching and for your comments, ARC! Good thoughts all! I’ve had lots of guys suggest strong magnets for locating drywall screws which is a great idea too, so I have one stuck to my cup holder in my truck these days. I did clip a wire with my drill bit about a year ago which was the first time I have ever done that in my life. I was installing a mantle over a fireplace on a fake rock/sheetrock 2x6 wall that was 12 feet tall. It was a total fluke that I hit it and couldn’t do that again in a hundred years but I did this time. Had to open the wall up and put in a couple of junction boxes and new piece of wire. Probably 3 hours lost, but actually wasn’t that big of a job. Haven’t figured out how I would handle the rock face issue yet if I ever run into another one of those situation again, but it got my attention, as you can imagine! 😬
Much easier and faster just gluing in regular Rod instead of trying to tap the hole. They sell kits on amazon for this style of installation.
If you say so, Jason. But if I'm not explaining, I'm drilling a hole, running in the tap and screwing the rod into place. That's pretty easy also! Plus I can pull it if I ever need to.
@@RustyDobbs How would one go about this process without that metal contraption you created to twist the rod?
@@aheadatime you could probably get away with epoxying a nut (especially a cap nut) into a sturdy piece of wood as a tap handle.
@@aheadatime just put 2 nuts on the end of the rod and jam the together. Then put a socket on it and turn it in with a ratchet or impact screwgun.
The AWP recommends a depth of 4x the diameter of the lag, so in your case you hit a great depth. I'd guess you're getting any where from 800lbs to 1000lbs withdrawal strength!
Is that for wood or metal surrounding material?
@@ryleynoyes first proper comnent question here
that's what she said ;-)
Good to see the recalculations. Projects always require multiple attempts. Great to see the problem solving process!
You are right, Chubby! A big part of any construction process is learning how to deal with the unexpected because it is very often going to show up when it is most inconvenient! I appreciate you watching and your comment!
You are by far the most attentive Carpenter i have ever seen...hat is off to you sir
Drilling such a huge hole on the stud and applying torque to it (by applying weight on the completed shelf), is it a concern to the structural strength of the stud?
The vertical forces on the stud as it holds the second floor and roof up are massive compared to the additional forces imposed by the shelf - even though, as you rightly say, the lever mechanics are not ideal from the stud's point of view. But wood is much more resistant to bending than steel - the steel bar would bend before the stud cracks.
But it could be nice to pass the all-thread bar right through the stud and out the other side, making two shelves, one on either side of the wall. That would cancel out those lever forces, assuming the shelves were roughly the same weight.
You assume that it is a load bearing wall too.
Point load is down and therefore the rod occupied the space or hole
what about a floating seat/bench? Do you think this could handle 250lbs?
It looks like it should be able to support a carefully sat bum of #250. The problem is if someone flops down, creating a much larger force. A shelf has to handle enormous leverage as the farther from the wall the weight is placed, the greater the effect upon it. Sitting your bum on the very edge of your seat while flopping down quickly would be catastrophic. For a seat, I'd go with square metal tubing. I've seen beds free floating using I beams set in the wall. They look great, but there is a $$$ cost.
Probably pushing the limit. I've used steel tubing forming a "tee" within the wall attached to the studs and protruding through the sheetrock for a long floating countertop. I imagine it can work with a bench seat as well.
Paul, to help strengthen your bench, you could attach a vertical board sandwiched between the sheet rock and the bench. This would help spread the load and prevent the gypsum from crushing at the lower edge.
I’d also recommend a corner installation if possible and utilize a transverse anchor of the same method. That would increase strength considerably.
You would need a steel L bracket mounted to the studs to do that.
Hey, Paul! I would be more inclined to use a welded "L" bracket that's bolted to the studs for a seat, as some others have suggested.
Loved how you walked us through the whole process and showed the difficulties you encountered! Sometimes, UA-cam makes me feel like these scenarios only happen to me! Glad to see I'm still living in reality, though :) Thanks for the video
Thanks for watching, Daze, and for your comments! Yes, if you have problems like I had in this video, you are living in reality! Rarely does everything go right for me on projects. 😬
Rusty, this is a brilliant idea. Good job!