Hope you enjoyed this one! Let me know below if you did. For the more experienced DIYers out there about to tell me I'm an idiot for using a masonry drill bit on a wooden wall, I should have explained that these are installed on a solid brick wall. A brick wall that eats drill bits for breakfast. And yes I'm using a hammer drill, and one that's powered by 230 solid volts of power (+10%/-6% in accordance with UK Power distribution regulations - for all the electricians out there!).
Thank you for the information. To help you, you need to use the right drill bit for the job. The bits you showed were for drilling into concrete. The Dewalt drill bit you purchased is one of the types you should use to drill into sheetrock and wood. Plus get yourself a smaller drill! I have Dewalt 12V and 20V lithium battery drills. I use the 12v every day for work and it would work for your project. If you have a harder wood or metal to drill into, then use the 20V drill. Your hammer drill great for concrete, heavy for wood working.
Your drill speed is too high. Slow down alot and press harder on the drill. Every 15 sec or so release the press a bit , then back on. No more melted tips or bent bits from too much heat.
Its a different drill bit as I'm drilling in to a different material and my wall is made of bricks. To get the right hole in the wood I practiced with different sizes on a scrap piece
Finally....the video I was looking for. This is the most DIY friendly video I have come across till now for making floating shelves. All other videos come up with elaborate brackets which need to be made and then you gotta make the rectangular wooden box that slides over the bracket. It's very elaborate and time consuming. Your solution looks very sturdy and elegant. I know for a fact that these fasteners can hold tremendous amount of weight. In my country, we use these fasteners for lots of things like fixing wash basin to the wall.
A very rarely comment on any video I watch, but you were so thoughtful when you included the links you even included the US version of the links. Which is so helpful and amazing and almost unheard of that you did it. I truly appreciate you making my life easier thank you very much, I wish more people could be like you.
Thank you, your video was very helpful especially for a single lady that knows nothing but trys to do everything herself, needless to say I rely on a lot of you tube videos. Loved yours, keep on.
That is good news! I'm glad you liked them. I have good news for you too! I'm nearly finished on my next project and am starting another one which hopefully won't be too far behind it. Ive not yet mastered being able make videos very quickly.. I tend to take on projects that take far too long to complete! But subscribe and hit the bell and I'll hopefully have the next video wrapped up soon!
Hi Neil, I bought this kit followed your methodology, modified it for some corner shelving, with zero experience making floating shelving and just a newbie to DIY ... your video was definitely more appealing than the other designs.
This was absolutely amazing...and I've come here after going through at least 10 other DIY floating shelf videos, all quite good, and this one still compelled me to leave a comment, 'cause its that good!
EXACTLY what i needed to see before starting on a couple of these in my kitchen, thank you! Video was crisp, perfect moments of sarcasm, not too long, thanks again!
The video and comments are focused on the hole in the wall but actually the most difficult part is the holes in the wood. You will need a 12mm drill that can go in at least 16cm. This is very deep and you will likely need to buy an extra long drill bit to do it. If your shelf is long you will need more than 2 brackets for strength. 1 bracket every 40cm I think. I just used 2 per shelf, if you use more you should take time to think about how you will keep the shelf level. Drill the holes in the wall with 10mm masonry drill. Insert plugs and screw in brackets Put the wood on top of the brackets. Check with a level and adjust brackets to get them straight. Mark the position of the brackets on the wood so you know where the holes should go along the length of the shelf. Put a dab of paint on the face of the bracket. Line them up between your marks and press the shelf against it. This is so you know roughly wherr to drill into the wood. If the dot is too close to the top or bottom youll need to adjust the brackets. Keeping the drill straight over through the depth of the shelf is the really difficult part of the proces. Clamp the wood to the bench. Dont start till you do. You can drill pilot holes but they only help so much. I got steel plate with a 90 degree angle which had holes pre-drilled in it. I dont know what they are for, maybe welding. I looked for one with a 12mm hole by inserting the drill bit into it and picking the one with the best fit. Place the plate on top of your shelf (which is clamped to your bench). Line up the hole in the metal with your paint dot showing where the hole should be. If it doesnt line up, adjust by jacking it up with bits of cardboard. Clamp the metal onto the shelf or bench so it doesnt move. Drill through the hole in the metal plate into the wood. The platr will help you keep the drill straight but it isnt perfect because you are drilling so deep. Keep steady. Dont do it all in one go, pull out the wood shavings as you go. Dont get excited and rush. Have your drill battery charged to full each time. If you think you are angling up or down you can pause in place and firmly hold the drill where you want to correct. Move it in and out a bit and grind a different angle, then slowly continue. This activity is not nearly as quick as the video makes out but it ends up with nice shelves.
When the comment is more insightful than the video. lol Well done mate. Btw, I hate it when DIY videos skip the most difficult parts and conclude "well trust my word, you can't fail".
You just need to make a template out of a piece of scrap wood. Drill the holes in your template and line and level it on wall and on wood shelf. Takes 5 minutes and everything will line up and be level. Simple! If you are putting this in a cove area (with wall on each side) you can put a groove in front of shelf so front of shelf has support if putting heavy things on it. If the shelf is above eye level you can fill in groove on the bottom of shelf so it can’t be seen. But i will say someone needs to invent something that is adjustable if you get done and it’s not level by a hair but noticeable beside only being able to tap with a hammer. Anyone who has done this their first time and have been off level by a 1/8th of an inch knows how hard it can be to redrill a hole 1/8 above/below original hole. It’s a pain in azz unless you refill hole and start over. That’s where the template helps for this not to happen 99% of time.
if you really need to make one or two holes and don't want to spend the money, a masonry bit can be used manually by tapping it with a hammer and twisting. Takes a long time but it'll do it, though its up to you to keep things straight
I was looking for best glass mounting bracket ideas for my diy project. Seen your post and stopped to watch anyways just cause you're cute. ... I now want to build my own floating shelves. lol :D
Great video. Can anyone recommend good fixings to use on a brick wall that has dot and dab plasterboard for this sort of project? I tried the Corefix heavy duty dot and dab wall fixings for my floating shelves. The shelves are very solid but they still wobble a little up and down, which is a bit annoying. Would these fixings in the video be any good in dot and dab walls?
I have always stayed away from floating shelves because of the rigidity issues. I feel like you had one of the best solutions I have seen with the rod bots. Good work!
I found your video very helpful. I like the fact you can rotate the bolts to correct for slight alignment problems if necessary. I'll try to find that type of bolt near me. My favorite part of the video was when you discovered your drill bit was bent a bit. Sometimes, you think to yourself that only yourself would have that kind of problem. So it's nice to know things like that can happen to anyone. I'm glad you included it. I want to mount a long shelf to hold some models of old electric powered locomotives from around the world. I don't need nor want the board to be much thicker that 3/4 of an inch so I have to find bolts that don't require a 1/2 hole. I also have to lay a floating vinyl floor in our bathroom so I'll be checking the rest of your site for possible tips. Thanks for the education! Rob
Thanks for the feedback Rob. Glad you found it useful. I haven't seen a smaller bracket for thinner shelves but there are lots of options out there for shelves so I'm sure you'll find something that works 👍
I've found the very best way to fix a floating shelf that will be rock solid is to use 12mm threaded rod and fix in the wall with resin, making the hole in the wall 16mm. Just support it for 15 mins. The down side is that it's permanent but most shelves are. I've done many like that and they hold any weight.
This is really good, a great video, when you mounted the shelf on the wall, I thought, I wish he had shown, the actual drilled holes on the back of the shelf, before he slides the shelf on to the wall fixings, as I carnt recall seeing that part of the tutorial, but I did learn alot from this, and I didnt, know the tips you gave about the wood knots seepage, which is really good of you to mention that, I liked these fixing you used, this is very interesting, I subscribed and gave it thumbs up, thank you, Laura in uk
thanks much, i am planning to build my floating shelf, and was thinking of what to use to hold it. now i need to find it locally.. btw i always use dewalt bits, been using them for years. no complaints..
"It cannot be that easy, can it?" - and then he goes and shows an intricate process for which any regular person would need to buy 10 different things, resins, paints, etc not to mention the tools :) Its a good video, and you explain it really well. The process itself also is not "hard" so "easy" is accurate description of this, but the thing that I found most informative at this point is that there is a strud to buy off amazon... Then I will get a shelf ready bought from somewhere like B&Q :) You have my like, sir!
Hi, no the knotting solution only stops the oil from knots from staining light paint. If you're vanishing you'll see the knots anyway do you won't need to cover them. You don't have to varnish or stain, personal preference really. A finish will help protect the wood from getting dirty or marked. It can also help stop cracking in warmer months when it dries out. It depends on what look you're going for
Really appreciate you taking the time to link US equivalents. I am trying to find a solution to mounting a floating shelf, and think I just found it. Thank you!
Great video. If I would like to remove my floater shelf and I would like to install ones using the same bracket however I want them same length however going out instead of 6.7 inches I would like one that is 10 inches how do you remove them without breaking the wall and just get a new one that would be custom made exactly 6.7 inches by 10 inches. I now have 16 inches length. I would get same length however coming out 10 inches instead of 6.7 so I can fit bowls etc
At the end of your project, it looks like the shelf doesn't move at all. However, our application is inside a camper van, so there is quite a bit of vibration while driving and we go nuts if stuff in the camper vibrates and makes noises......do you think this bracket system will rattle a bit when in motion? Or are the shelves truly tight to fit? Also, thanks for the excellent presentation.
how would you go about installing them on plasterboard? Perhaps cut a rectangle the size of the back of the shelf, so that it can get flush to the wall?
Not too sure really. I wouldn't use the wall plugs that came with it. I'd look to use a fixing specifically for plasterboard.. or get and did the wooden studs
thanks for the video. i was wondering if the washers make the shelf sit out away from the wall and if you think i should chisel out bit so that they will be inset. thanks!
I was wondering the same thing. Has anyone installed these and found the washers prevent the shelf from sitting flush with the wall? I was thinking I might put a washer thickness recess into the back of the shelf first with a forstner bit before drilling the hole for the pin.
Just double checked.. they do stop it sitting flush. On the other hand, the gap isn't noticeable and might be useful if you ever need to get something behind the shelf to pull it off at a later date
@@NeilLovegrovemaker Thanks Neil. I appreciate your checking. I saw a drawing on one of the Amazon links you posted that actually shows the washer recessed into the back of the shelf, so the supplier must have contemplated the same thing. I think I'll recess the washer on mine so I can snug the shelf up to the wall. It'll be easy enough to do on my drill press.
Hi , Fantastic video show. Do yo think that could be use in Hollow concrete block wall? The wood that I have got is Carob so is quite heavy. Thank you for your time
Thats a tricky one. I wouldn't like to say one way or the other. If they are weak you can always add more for extra stability but then again if the wall blocks are hollow there wont be much for the bracket to hold on to so it may not work.
Hi Neil - I have a question which I am hoping you can help me with. Bear with me here . . . . I was already researching floating shelf fixings when I came across your video which was very helpful. I am planning to wall-mount a mantle (shelf) above a redundant fireplace, but my shelf will be only 4 inches deep (102 mm) - when measured from the wall to the front edge of the shelf. I can find online only one size of the floating shelf fixings that you used, which actually require sliding into the (drilled) shelf by 122 mm. (I do like the ones you used because of their level-adjustment feature which you demonstrated.) But I need shorter ones that would slide into a drilled shelf by (approx) only 76 mm. My question is this: Could I cut down (shorten) the ones that you have used without impairing their function? If so, how tough is the metal - could I cut them with a hacksaw or would I need to use an angle-grinder? Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks
Hi Gary, I would go for chopping the end off one to see if it works! I can't see how it would reduce functionality if you're putting in a smaller shelf. I think you would get through it with a hacksaw, give it a go at least. If not an angle grinder should do it
Thank you for sharing all that, I'm in the process of adding a counter over my pull out washing machine and I want shelves above it. This will work great! Love your accent too!
Great video. This gives me hope that Maybe I really can pull this project off by myself? Question: do I need to insert the brackets into the wall studs?
More bolts would hold more weight, if you feel its not stable enough it is pretty easy to pull the shelf off and add more brackets. Other than that I haven't experimented to find out the weight limit per bracket
I've experienced the same thing with my cheap kit masonary drill bits that are IMPOSSIBLE to get through brick. I went slow, fast, corded, uncorded, hammer setting, standard setting, with cooling, and without.. no difference. Very helpful to see you go through the same thing and find out that it's the darn drill bit itselt. Will check out the ones you recommend 👍 Thanks for the video!
Daft question but how did you measure where the holes for the raw plugs would go for the brackets and make it line up with the holes you had drilled into the wood? Im assuming you measured in from the edge of wood to the first hole, then just transferred that measurement to the wall?
It was a while ago now but think It was as you said with a tape measure. Another method is to put a strip on masking tape along the wood, Mark the holes, then sick it on your wall
Nice video. Consider these points 1. You bought pre-made shelves "off the shelf".... Hmm. 2. In most cases, it is more important that a shelf LOOK level rather than actually BE level. If the ceiling, floor, or other major nearby horizontal lines are not truly level, a level shelf will look out-of-level because it isn't parallel to them. In this case it is better to stand off at a distance and have a helper position the shelf so it looks level and mark the position. 3. When using a masonry bit it helps greatly to have a squirt bottle at hand to squirt water into the hole. This cools the bit, softens the masonry, and keeps down dust.
I wanted to see your failed attempts at drilling holes. Where you said it went red hot etc. So does the drill bit make a difference in the precision and ease of drilling hard walls? Thanks
This happened on a previous install and I wasn't filming. Drill bit makes a lot of difference, especially if you're drilling into a brick wall. You ideally need a hammer action drill, and a drill bit that won't blunt when it gets hot. Cheaper ones blunt very quickly and then start to.just get hitter as they get more blunt.. ending with burnt carpet!
Don't you mean a hammer drill? An Impact Driver is a small version of a drill for driving screws and bolts but not useful for drilling, a hammer drill is a drill that also reciprocates the drill back and forth as it spins (like a jackhammer).
Great instructions, must get that drill bit. I've got a floating oak mantlepiece that I want to replace with a wider one, and I can't work out how to get it off or how it's fixed on 🤯 any ideas?
I would have a look for any hidden screws or fittings. See if there are any areas where the wood grain is different where a screw head might have been covered. Otherwise you could try gently prying it off with a crow bar to see if you can peep behind to see how it's being held on.. if all.else fails you could go further and just rip it off with the crowbar and deal with the mess and damage to the walls after!
Exactly what I was looking for!!! YES! My ex boyfriend was boasting about making shelve this way in other people's kitchens and I want to put one or two up in my living room now that he is out of town. But I was having trouble locating the hardware he had described. Unfortunately for me, your link show prices in pounds and I am in the US.
It's a really standard and normal way to build houses not cheap at all. You'll just have to find studs in the wall. So when you drill your holes in the wood and wall they should be 16 inches apart to catch to studs
Do you have any advice for removing the brackets? We have the same for our floating shelves, but right now are moving house, and are really struggling to take them out the wall 😢
I've not had to take mine off yet. I'd probably start with trying to pry out from behind the shelf, or fitting a clamp to the shelf that can be gripped better
Thanks for a super wasy floating shelf, & easy to follow guide. Im new to the woodworking world and wanted to make a gew floating shelves, but all the videos Ive watched so far seemed to be a little overkill and overthinking. This is a simple video, with simple step by step instructions that anyone can follow, even me. I do have one question, if you or anyone can answer.... What are the mounting screws called? I didnt find the like for them, or the name of them. Keep doing what your doing, I know I will like and share.
If you drill the holes in the wood at one dimension.. and the screws in the wall are eccentric for leveling.. wont that change the distance to the holes you drilled in the wood??
If I looked again, you drilled the hole in one time, with the big one. Have you try-out drilling with a smaller bit first. It takes the stress of the big one, and doesn't break or burn.
had the same problems with those rotted spots. what I did was gouged those rotted spots, and I mixed glue with some sawdust and applied it to the gouged spots then sanded the wood even
High speed power drill is good but if drilling into masonry (brick, stone etc) a drill with a hammer function is best along with the masonry drill bit.
Any idea what to use to put up a very heavy and long shelf. Worried it may fall off as it’s very heavy as I said. Would like to use the gloating shelf method
It will depend on a lot of factors, like how heavy the shelf is, how deep it is, and what your wall is made up of. There are other methods out there thst might be worth researching
What is the weight of your shelf ? I have a live edge messmate timber- 1500x400 mm. I want to put it up as a floating shelf but it’s quite heavy and I am looking for some heavy duty brackets. It would be nice if you could let me know how many kilos these brackets can hold. TIA
I don't have that info in afraid. The good thing with them is that if it needs extra support you can remove the shelf and add more studs for strength without removing what you've already installed
Mate you need to use hammer drill, which not only rotates the bit but also reciprocates it (like a jackhammer). The rotation is used to clear material via the spiral flutes of the bit, but the hammer action works to smash the material, just like a small jackhammer. If you don't use a hammer drill then you will be generating immense friction but not performing much drilling.
I stupidly cut out the part where I spoke about drills and composition of walls in order to keep the video short... but made it look like I was doing it wrong. It was a hammer drill, a mains powered one (because my battery one couldn't handle it) it was just a real stubborn chimney breast wall with solid stone chunks in it and the cheap bits I ised first.of all were half blunt which also didnt help!
Great advice to buy more and more tools. Making own shelves etc is dying out due to the insane set up costs and growing demand getting more and more tools.Modern men deliver worse priducts but use at least 20times more tools than men 60years ago
Any idea how you'd get these out? 😂 Moved into a house with a couple of shelves with these brackets/fittings on it. Ridiculous trying to get the shelf off these brackets in order to wall paper the kids room 🤷🏻♂️ any help is appreciated
They're only held on with friction so in theory the shelf should pull off woth enough force. That said, if they weren't aligned very well when installed ans the shelf was bashed on I can see how it would be tricky ti remove. In terms ideas.. I'd try gently prying off with something like a claw hammer or crow bar. You'd need to work each end at the same time so they come off straight. You could also make some wooden wedges that you could tap in along the back edge to slowly pry it off.
Hi Neil, just happened to come across your videos yesterday and they are brilliant I’m gutted there aren’t more! During the lockdown I have been trying to find the “DIY” within myself, something I have never really done before. For my 26 my misses was wanting to get me a decent drill just for things around the house but I don’t know of any that are good for a beginner, any suggestions would be brilliant! Once again, great videos!
Hi Chris. Thanks for the feedback. I wish there were more videos too. Unfortunately with a day job and young family I still haven't mastered how to make a video in less than a few months. The process is getting faster though so stick around and hopefully I'll get them down to the weekly rate they people are demanding! With your drill it really depends on what you want to use it for. Read reviews before you buy and you should get a feel for if it's right for you. I'd recommend getting one with "hammer" function so you can also use it for drilling into walls. Also look for one with 2 batteries so you can always keep a spare charged - nothing worse than going to use it and it being flat. If it's battery the higher the voltage generally means the more power. Mines an 18v DeWalt. I've had it 10 years now and it's still going strong. Hope that helps
@@NeilLovegrovemaker It does mate thanks! My misses dad is an upholsterer and has been for a long time now and we are going to be moving in with each other soon (me and the misses, not her dad) and I would like to try and gain a useful skill that I know you can have loads of fun with.
Hi did you pin which brackets you used as there are so many on Amazon n they have mixed reviews, rather use some that someone has tried n liked 😊 by the way saved my hubby a big job me watching this 😉, as I want 4 long chunky shelves put up in our lounge n he was like... it'll take forever to make n put these up I've only got 1 day off n I've got the ceiling to paint too 😆ooops , bless so yes a big thanks from my hubby 😀
I'm pretty sure i linked the ones I used in the description, but from ive seen they all are of a similar construction. Most bad reviews come from people not installing properly or using them for something theyre not suitable for.
I'm looking to source some live wood (wavey front) and was thinking they'd look great floated, so really useful to see what you used and how it turned out, thanks. After struggling with a masonry drill drilling into engineering bricks up the side of an alcove I invested in an SDS drill - the right tool if you're finding even new bits don't make much impression.
Knots are ok. I would have left them. Looks more rustic... and natural. :) Thanks for this great vid since I neither have the patience, the space the tools nor the skills!
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Hope you enjoyed this one! Let me know below if you did.
For the more experienced DIYers out there about to tell me I'm an idiot for using a masonry drill bit on a wooden wall, I should have explained that these are installed on a solid brick wall. A brick wall that eats drill bits for breakfast. And yes I'm using a hammer drill, and one that's powered by 230 solid volts of power (+10%/-6% in accordance with UK Power distribution regulations - for all the electricians out there!).
Thank you for the information. To help you, you need to use the right drill bit for the job. The bits you showed were for drilling into concrete. The Dewalt drill bit you purchased is one of the types you should use to drill into sheetrock and wood. Plus get yourself a smaller drill! I have Dewalt 12V and 20V lithium battery drills. I use the 12v every day for work and it would work for your project. If you have a harder wood or metal to drill into, then use the 20V drill. Your hammer drill great for concrete, heavy for wood working.
Your drill speed is too high. Slow down alot and press harder on the drill. Every 15 sec or so release the press a bit , then back on. No more melted tips or bent bits from too much heat.
Hello! Thanks for the video. Did you use the same 10mm drill bit for the holes in the wood? What size is that?
Its a different drill bit as I'm drilling in to a different material and my wall is made of bricks. To get the right hole in the wood I practiced with different sizes on a scrap piece
That's the most useful tip on this thread! a decent sharp bit also helps 👍
Finally....the video I was looking for. This is the most DIY friendly video I have come across till now for making floating shelves. All other videos come up with elaborate brackets which need to be made and then you gotta make the rectangular wooden box that slides over the bracket. It's very elaborate and time consuming. Your solution looks very sturdy and elegant. I know for a fact that these fasteners can hold tremendous amount of weight. In my country, we use these fasteners for lots of things like fixing wash basin to the wall.
A very rarely comment on any video I watch, but you were so thoughtful when you included the links you even included the US version of the links. Which is so helpful and amazing and almost unheard of that you did it. I truly appreciate you making my life easier thank you very much, I wish more people could be like you.
Thank you for taking the time to ledge a comment! I'm glad the video helpful!
Thank you, your video was very helpful especially for a single lady that knows nothing but trys to do everything herself, needless to say I rely on a lot of you tube videos. Loved yours, keep on.
Yes it was a good watch and really helpful. Thankyou for showing the shelf supports I haven't seen them before.
I like your video you add a little bit of personality to it and a little bit of humor at the same time it's a good tutorial plus I like your accent.
Good news; I've watched all your videos and loved them. Bad news; I've watched ALL your videos! I hope you make more!
That is good news! I'm glad you liked them. I have good news for you too! I'm nearly finished on my next project and am starting another one which hopefully won't be too far behind it. Ive not yet mastered being able make videos very quickly.. I tend to take on projects that take far too long to complete! But subscribe and hit the bell and I'll hopefully have the next video wrapped up soon!
Hi Neil,
I bought this kit followed your methodology, modified it for some corner shelving, with zero experience making floating shelving and just a newbie to DIY ... your video was definitely more appealing than the other designs.
Thanks for the feedback. I'm glad you found it useful!
This was absolutely amazing...and I've come here after going through at least 10 other DIY floating shelf videos, all quite good, and this one still compelled me to leave a comment, 'cause its that good!
Thank you! I'm glad you found it useful 👍
EXACTLY what i needed to see before starting on a couple of these in my kitchen, thank you! Video was crisp, perfect moments of sarcasm, not too long, thanks again!
'Perfect moments of sarcasm' would make a great name for a channel 😂
I could watch this guy all day. Great job.
Totally
The video and comments are focused on the hole in the wall but actually the most difficult part is the holes in the wood. You will need a 12mm drill that can go in at least 16cm. This is very deep and you will likely need to buy an extra long drill bit to do it.
If your shelf is long you will need more than 2 brackets for strength. 1 bracket every 40cm I think.
I just used 2 per shelf, if you use more you should take time to think about how you will keep the shelf level.
Drill the holes in the wall with 10mm masonry drill. Insert plugs and screw in brackets
Put the wood on top of the brackets. Check with a level and adjust brackets to get them straight.
Mark the position of the brackets on the wood so you know where the holes should go along the length of the shelf.
Put a dab of paint on the face of the bracket. Line them up between your marks and press the shelf against it. This is so you know roughly wherr to drill into the wood. If the dot is too close to the top or bottom youll need to adjust the brackets.
Keeping the drill straight over through the depth of the shelf is the really difficult part of the proces. Clamp the wood to the bench. Dont start till you do.
You can drill pilot holes but they only help so much. I got steel plate with a 90 degree angle which had holes pre-drilled in it. I dont know what they are for, maybe welding. I looked for one with a 12mm hole by inserting the drill bit into it and picking the one with the best fit.
Place the plate on top of your shelf (which is clamped to your bench). Line up the hole in the metal with your paint dot showing where the hole should be. If it doesnt line up, adjust by jacking it up with bits of cardboard. Clamp the metal onto the shelf or bench so it doesnt move.
Drill through the hole in the metal plate into the wood. The platr will help you keep the drill straight but it isnt perfect because you are drilling so deep. Keep steady. Dont do it all in one go, pull out the wood shavings as you go. Dont get excited and rush. Have your drill battery charged to full each time.
If you think you are angling up or down you can pause in place and firmly hold the drill where you want to correct. Move it in and out a bit and grind a different angle, then slowly continue.
This activity is not nearly as quick as the video makes out but it ends up with nice shelves.
When the comment is more insightful than the video. lol Well done mate. Btw, I hate it when DIY videos skip the most difficult parts and conclude "well trust my word, you can't fail".
You just need to make a template out of a piece of scrap wood. Drill the holes in your template and line and level it on wall and on wood shelf. Takes 5 minutes and everything will line up and be level. Simple! If you are putting this in a cove area (with wall on each side) you can put a groove in front of shelf so front of shelf has support if putting heavy things on it. If the shelf is above eye level you can fill in groove on the bottom of shelf so it can’t be seen. But i will say someone needs to invent something that is adjustable if you get done and it’s not level by a hair but noticeable beside only being able to tap with a hammer. Anyone who has done this their first time and have been off level by a 1/8th of an inch knows how hard it can be to redrill a hole 1/8 above/below original hole. It’s a pain in azz unless you refill hole and start over. That’s where the template helps for this not to happen 99% of time.
Omg I can’t tell you how happy I am to have found this video!!!!! Thank you!!!
Me too
He called it a "Wrench"!!! Woooohoooo!!! Bravo!!!!!👍👍👍👍👍
The secret to drilling with concrete drill bits is to use a hammer drill! It's sooo much easier!
Good video btw!
Not only easier but also the correct way. Without sounding like a know it all! Great video
if you really need to make one or two holes and don't want to spend the money, a masonry bit can be used manually by tapping it with a hammer and twisting. Takes a long time but it'll do it, though its up to you to keep things straight
what is the size of the pre hole drill on the wood . It is a very informative video
I was looking for best glass mounting bracket ideas for my diy project. Seen your post and stopped to watch anyways just cause you're cute. ... I now want to build my own floating shelves. lol :D
Great video. Can anyone recommend good fixings to use on a brick wall that has dot and dab plasterboard for this sort of project? I tried the Corefix heavy duty dot and dab wall fixings for my floating shelves. The shelves are very solid but they still wobble a little up and down, which is a bit annoying. Would these fixings in the video be any good in dot and dab walls?
This is exactly what I was looking for, only I'll be attaching the shelves to wooden studs through plasterboard. Thanks! 👍
Good drill bits makes the world of difference, great tips
I already knew you knew exactly what i was thinking from the first 10 seconds.. Subscribed
I have always stayed away from floating shelves because of the rigidity issues.
I feel like you had one of the best solutions I have seen with the rod bots.
Good work!
99
Thank you for the detailed illustration. I want to put up a few floating shelves in my home office.
I found your video very helpful. I like the fact you can rotate the bolts to correct for slight alignment problems if necessary. I'll try to find that type of bolt near me.
My favorite part of the video was when you discovered your drill bit was bent a bit. Sometimes, you think to yourself that only yourself would have that kind of problem. So it's nice to know things like that can happen to anyone. I'm glad you included it. I want to mount a long shelf to hold some models of old electric powered locomotives from around the world. I don't need nor want the board to be much thicker that 3/4 of an inch so I have to find bolts that don't require a 1/2 hole. I also have to lay a floating vinyl floor in our bathroom so I'll be checking the rest of your site for possible tips. Thanks for the education! Rob
Thanks for the feedback Rob. Glad you found it useful. I haven't seen a smaller bracket for thinner shelves but there are lots of options out there for shelves so I'm sure you'll find something that works 👍
Neil, in case no one has mentioned it, thank you so much, for including and separating international
ordering links, for the materials. 😁😍
No one else has mentioned it but you're most welcome 😉
I've found the very best way to fix a floating shelf that will be rock solid is to use 12mm threaded rod and fix in the wall with resin, making the hole in the wall 16mm. Just support it for 15 mins. The down side is that it's permanent but most shelves are. I've done many like that and they hold any weight.
This is really good, a great video, when you mounted the shelf on the wall, I thought, I wish he had shown, the actual drilled holes on the back of the shelf, before he slides the shelf on to the wall fixings, as I carnt recall seeing that part of the tutorial, but I did learn alot from this, and I didnt, know the tips you gave about the wood knots seepage, which is really good of you to mention that, I liked these fixing you used, this is very interesting, I subscribed and gave it thumbs up, thank you, Laura in uk
Thanks Laura. Glad you found it useful!
You make a good, a great point there.
thanks much, i am planning to build my floating shelf, and was thinking of what to use to hold it. now i need to find it locally.. btw i always use dewalt bits, been using them for years. no complaints..
I think you should make more videos just about you daily life because you are really fun to watch
What size drill bit you use for the hole in the wall and the wood ?
"It cannot be that easy, can it?" - and then he goes and shows an intricate process for which any regular person would need to buy 10 different things, resins, paints, etc not to mention the tools :)
Its a good video, and you explain it really well. The process itself also is not "hard" so "easy" is accurate description of this, but the thing that I found most informative at this point is that there is a strud to buy off amazon...
Then I will get a shelf ready bought from somewhere like B&Q :)
You have my like, sir!
The tools he has are literally basic DIY tools anyway? So if you're looking to do any sort of DIY you should have them as a bare minimum
Hey Neil, do I need to use a knotting solution if not painting? Also, if not painting, should I varnish/stain instead?
Hi, no the knotting solution only stops the oil from knots from staining light paint. If you're vanishing you'll see the knots anyway do you won't need to cover them. You don't have to varnish or stain, personal preference really. A finish will help protect the wood from getting dirty or marked. It can also help stop cracking in warmer months when it dries out. It depends on what look you're going for
Only just saw this 😅 thanks Neil!
Dont worry, your reply time is about on par with my average 😂
You just saved me $800. Thank you for this awesome video!
Really appreciate you taking the time to link US equivalents. I am trying to find a solution to mounting a floating shelf, and think I just found it. Thank you!
You're welcome!
Great video. If I would like to remove my floater shelf and I would like to install ones using the same bracket however I want them same length however going out instead of 6.7 inches I would like one that is 10 inches how do you remove them without breaking the wall and just get a new one that would be custom made exactly 6.7 inches by 10 inches. I now have 16 inches length. I would get same length however coming out 10 inches instead of 6.7 so I can fit bowls etc
At the end of your project, it looks like the shelf doesn't move at all. However, our application is inside a camper van, so there is quite a bit of vibration while driving and we go nuts if stuff in the camper vibrates and makes noises......do you think this bracket system will rattle a bit when in motion? Or are the shelves truly tight to fit? Also, thanks for the excellent presentation.
I don't think I'd trust them in a campervan.. they could vibrate off if not on tight
That knot filler though. Ill have to check that out for sure. Hope it works outdoors
very informative. never heard of those mounting screws
how would you go about installing them on plasterboard? Perhaps cut a rectangle the size of the back of the shelf, so that it can get flush to the wall?
Not too sure really. I wouldn't use the wall plugs that came with it. I'd look to use a fixing specifically for plasterboard.. or get and did the wooden studs
What did you insert into the hole after the rawlplug, and how does the spanner work if there isn't any thread on the bolt?
thanks for the video. i was wondering if the washers make the shelf sit out away from the wall and if you think i should chisel out bit so that they will be inset. thanks!
I was wondering the same thing. Has anyone installed these and found the washers prevent the shelf from sitting flush with the wall? I was thinking I might put a washer thickness recess into the back of the shelf first with a forstner bit before drilling the hole for the pin.
Just double checked.. they do stop it sitting flush. On the other hand, the gap isn't noticeable and might be useful if you ever need to get something behind the shelf to pull it off at a later date
@@NeilLovegrovemaker Thanks Neil. I appreciate your checking. I saw a drawing on one of the Amazon links you posted that actually shows the washer recessed into the back of the shelf, so the supplier must have contemplated the same thing. I think I'll recess the washer on mine so I can snug the shelf up to the wall. It'll be easy enough to do on my drill press.
Its was all good, but i was looking for exactly how you did it in wood, what length of bit did you use, rest was perfect, super 😊😊😊
Can't remember! The bit used is linked in the description if it helps
Hi , Fantastic video show. Do yo think that could be use in Hollow concrete block wall? The wood that I have got is Carob so is quite heavy. Thank you for your time
Thats a tricky one. I wouldn't like to say one way or the other.
If they are weak you can always add more for extra stability but then again if the wall blocks are hollow there wont be much for the bracket to hold on to so it may not work.
Hi Neil - I have a question which I am hoping you can help me with. Bear with me here . . . . I was already researching floating shelf fixings when I came across your video which was very helpful. I am planning to wall-mount a mantle (shelf) above a redundant fireplace, but my shelf will be only 4 inches deep (102 mm) - when measured from the wall to the front edge of the shelf. I can find online only one size of the floating shelf fixings that you used, which actually require sliding into the (drilled) shelf by 122 mm. (I do like the ones you used because of their level-adjustment feature which you demonstrated.) But I need shorter ones that would slide into a drilled shelf by (approx) only 76 mm. My question is this: Could I cut down (shorten) the ones that you have used without impairing their function? If so, how tough is the metal - could I cut them with a hacksaw or would I need to use an angle-grinder? Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks
Hi Gary, I would go for chopping the end off one to see if it works! I can't see how it would reduce functionality if you're putting in a smaller shelf. I think you would get through it with a hacksaw, give it a go at least. If not an angle grinder should do it
Great video Neil! Very helpful
Thank you for sharing all that, I'm in the process of adding a counter over my pull out washing machine and I want shelves above it. This will work great! Love your accent too!
The size of the shaft is .47" which is basically 15/32. The drill size in the link is 3/8? Good video.
Great video. This gives me hope that Maybe I really can pull this project off by myself?
Question: do I need to insert the brackets into the wall studs?
This was a brick wall so I didn't have studs. But yes I'd aim for the studs if that's what your walls have
How deep are does . Im planina to build 38cm and 150cm wide ...wonder will it hold that same holders . Also planing to glue two bords to make it 10cm
Hey Neil! Thanks for the tutorial. About how thick is that board? Thanks!
It's around 35 or 40mm
Good video! is there any guidance on the weight you can place on the shelf using these bolts, i assume more bolts would equal more weight?
More bolts would hold more weight, if you feel its not stable enough it is pretty easy to pull the shelf off and add more brackets. Other than that I haven't experimented to find out the weight limit per bracket
@@NeilLovegrovemaker thanks for the response
Exactly what I was looking for and I had fun watching! Subscribed
I've experienced the same thing with my cheap kit masonary drill bits that are IMPOSSIBLE to get through brick. I went slow, fast, corded, uncorded, hammer setting, standard setting, with cooling, and without.. no difference.
Very helpful to see you go through the same thing and find out that it's the darn drill bit itselt. Will check out the ones you recommend 👍 Thanks for the video!
Excelente video estaba buscando un video sobre estos soportes, saludos desde 🇲🇽
Thanks Neil, do you reckon these would be sturdy enough for books?
Yeah it'd say so
How much weight to these support?
Daft question but how did you measure where the holes for the raw plugs would go for the brackets and make it line up with the holes you had drilled into the wood? Im assuming you measured in from the edge of wood to the first hole, then just transferred that measurement to the wall?
It was a while ago now but think It was as you said with a tape measure. Another method is to put a strip on masking tape along the wood, Mark the holes, then sick it on your wall
Did you have to cut a channel in the back to get them flush? The description for this anchors /brackets on Amazon says you need to?
No! I'm not sure what that means. The whole process I did is shown in this video
Nice video. Consider these points
1. You bought pre-made shelves "off the shelf".... Hmm.
2. In most cases, it is more important that a shelf LOOK level rather than actually BE level. If the ceiling, floor, or other major nearby horizontal lines are not truly level, a level shelf will look out-of-level because it isn't parallel to them. In this case it is better to stand off at a distance and have a helper position the shelf so it looks level and mark the position.
3. When using a masonry bit it helps greatly to have a squirt bottle at hand to squirt water into the hole. This cools the bit, softens the masonry, and keeps down dust.
Nice shelves, what's with the box
How many pound load are the shelf’s I have heavy items to put on the shelves.
I wanted to see your failed attempts at drilling holes. Where you said it went red hot etc.
So does the drill bit make a difference in the precision and ease of drilling hard walls?
Thanks
This happened on a previous install and I wasn't filming. Drill bit makes a lot of difference, especially if you're drilling into a brick wall.
You ideally need a hammer action drill, and a drill bit that won't blunt when it gets hot. Cheaper ones blunt very quickly and then start to.just get hitter as they get more blunt.. ending with burnt carpet!
Yes I liked it alot. Im going to use the metal lag bolts, I never thought they'd be so strong. On your way to Hollywood!
This is so good. No waffle, gold-dust!
Great tutorial. I've found an impact drill works best in concrete.
Don't you mean a hammer drill? An Impact Driver is a small version of a drill for driving screws and bolts but not useful for drilling, a hammer drill is a drill that also reciprocates the drill back and forth as it spins (like a jackhammer).
Great instructions, must get that drill bit. I've got a floating oak mantlepiece that I want to replace with a wider one, and I can't work out how to get it off or how it's fixed on 🤯 any ideas?
I would have a look for any hidden screws or fittings. See if there are any areas where the wood grain is different where a screw head might have been covered. Otherwise you could try gently prying it off with a crow bar to see if you can peep behind to see how it's being held on.. if all.else fails you could go further and just rip it off with the crowbar and deal with the mess and damage to the walls after!
@@NeilLovegrovemaker thanks for replying, I'll do that ☺
Exactly what I was looking for!!! YES!
My ex boyfriend was boasting about making shelve this way in other people's kitchens and I want to put one or two up in my living room now that he is out of town. But I was having trouble locating the hardware he had described. Unfortunately for me, your link show prices in pounds and I am in the US.
There are US links in the description too! Scroll down further 👍
Thanks, you've made this look like I might be able to do it.
Great video. Wish we had solid walls here like you do. All we have is these cheap dry wall/sheet rock walls.
It's a really standard and normal way to build houses not cheap at all. You'll just have to find studs in the wall. So when you drill your holes in the wood and wall they should be 16 inches apart to catch to studs
Thanks for the links!
I love this chilled out delivery. Informative and easy to watch. I’ll definitely be giving this a try.
Do you have any advice for removing the brackets? We have the same for our floating shelves, but right now are moving house, and are really struggling to take them out the wall 😢
I've not had to take mine off yet. I'd probably start with trying to pry out from behind the shelf, or fitting a clamp to the shelf that can be gripped better
How does the fixing bracket tighten on the wood when you placed the shelf?????
It's held in place by a friction fit.
@@NeilLovegrovemaker ill be trying this soon. I’ll let you know how it goes
Would these wall plugs provided be good for drywall? They seem like they are the equivalent to dry wall mounts but I wanted to ask first
I've not used them in dry wall. I guess you could always use a drywall plug instead of those that come with it
Great vid, with some simply put, useful tips. I am to DIY, what an ashtray is to a motorbike, so this was very useful. Cheers mate!👍
Thanks for a super wasy floating shelf, & easy to follow guide.
Im new to the woodworking world and wanted to make a gew floating shelves, but all the videos Ive watched so far seemed to be a little overkill and overthinking.
This is a simple video, with simple step by step instructions that anyone can follow, even me.
I do have one question, if you or anyone can answer.... What are the mounting screws called?
I didnt find the like for them, or the name of them.
Keep doing what your doing, I know I will like and share.
There should be links in the video description for UK, USA, and Canada where you should find the name.
What size drill bit do you need to make the hole in the wood?
The bit used should be linked in the description
If you drill the holes in the wood at one dimension.. and the screws in the wall are eccentric for leveling.. wont that change the distance to the holes you drilled in the wood??
I believe the screws are eccentric for adjustment should you not have drilled your holes at the perfect distance.
Love the dad grunts lol
Should a 2.5 cm thick shelf be able to withstand those screws?
If it's solid wood it could work. You won't have much room for error in your drilling though!
@@NeilLovegrovemaker I really want to make IKEA's "BERGSHULT" shelf float, but can't seem to find suitable ways.
If I looked again, you drilled the hole in one time, with the big one. Have you try-out drilling with a smaller bit first. It takes the stress of the big one, and doesn't break or burn.
had the same problems with those rotted spots. what I did was gouged those rotted spots, and I mixed glue with some sawdust and applied it to the gouged spots then sanded the wood even
I bought these brackets with the intention of hanging a six-foot long bookshelf -- do you think they're strong enough for that? Thanks for the video!
It's tricky to say. The good thing about them is that if you put a shelf up and it's too wobbly you can take it off and add more brackets
What size drill bit did you use?
High speed power drill is good but if drilling into masonry (brick, stone etc) a drill with a hammer function is best along with the masonry drill bit.
Any idea what to use to put up a very heavy and long shelf. Worried it may fall off as it’s very heavy as I said. Would like to use the gloating shelf method
It will depend on a lot of factors, like how heavy the shelf is, how deep it is, and what your wall is made up of. There are other methods out there thst might be worth researching
@@NeilLovegrovemaker thank you
What is the weight of your shelf ?
I have a live edge messmate timber- 1500x400 mm. I want to put it up as a floating shelf but it’s quite heavy and I am looking for some heavy duty brackets. It would be nice if you could let me know how many kilos these brackets can hold.
TIA
I don't have that info in afraid. The good thing with them is that if it needs extra support you can remove the shelf and add more studs for strength without removing what you've already installed
Mate you need to use hammer drill, which not only rotates the bit but also reciprocates it (like a jackhammer). The rotation is used to clear material via the spiral flutes of the bit, but the hammer action works to smash the material, just like a small jackhammer. If you don't use a hammer drill then you will be generating immense friction but not performing much drilling.
I stupidly cut out the part where I spoke about drills and composition of walls in order to keep the video short... but made it look like I was doing it wrong. It was a hammer drill, a mains powered one (because my battery one couldn't handle it) it was just a real stubborn chimney breast wall with solid stone chunks in it and the cheap bits I ised first.of all were half blunt which also didnt help!
Great advice to buy more and more tools.
Making own shelves etc is dying out due to the insane set up costs and growing demand getting more and more tools.Modern men deliver worse priducts but use at least 20times more tools than men 60years ago
Amazing Neil thanks ❤
What are those metal shelf supports called and would I be able to use those for a cat floating shelve?
Nail brackets.
Exactly what I was looking for!! Thank you!!
did i miss the bit where you measured the hole in the wall to match exactly where the hole in teh wood shelf goes..?
Any idea how you'd get these out? 😂 Moved into a house with a couple of shelves with these brackets/fittings on it. Ridiculous trying to get the shelf off these brackets in order to wall paper the kids room 🤷🏻♂️ any help is appreciated
They're only held on with friction so in theory the shelf should pull off woth enough force. That said, if they weren't aligned very well when installed ans the shelf was bashed on I can see how it would be tricky ti remove.
In terms ideas.. I'd try gently prying off with something like a claw hammer or crow bar. You'd need to work each end at the same time so they come off straight.
You could also make some wooden wedges that you could tap in along the back edge to slowly pry it off.
Hi Neil, just happened to come across your videos yesterday and they are brilliant I’m gutted there aren’t more! During the lockdown I have been trying to find the “DIY” within myself, something I have never really done before. For my 26 my misses was wanting to get me a decent drill just for things around the house but I don’t know of any that are good for a beginner, any suggestions would be brilliant! Once again, great videos!
Hi Chris. Thanks for the feedback. I wish there were more videos too. Unfortunately with a day job and young family I still haven't mastered how to make a video in less than a few months. The process is getting faster though so stick around and hopefully I'll get them down to the weekly rate they people are demanding!
With your drill it really depends on what you want to use it for. Read reviews before you buy and you should get a feel for if it's right for you.
I'd recommend getting one with "hammer" function so you can also use it for drilling into walls. Also look for one with 2 batteries so you can always keep a spare charged - nothing worse than going to use it and it being flat. If it's battery the higher the voltage generally means the more power. Mines an 18v DeWalt. I've had it 10 years now and it's still going strong. Hope that helps
@@NeilLovegrovemaker It does mate thanks! My misses dad is an upholsterer and has been for a long time now and we are going to be moving in with each other soon (me and the misses, not her dad) and I would like to try and gain a useful skill that I know you can have loads of fun with.
Hello , so the diameter of the wood drill bit should be the same as the bracket's ?
Yes!
Did you drill into a stud? Or is that not necessary?
For my wall it was a brick wall so didn't have any studs. There are some third party plug options out there if you can't align with a stud
So you are using a concrete bit to drill into wood?
It's not wood. It's a brick wall 😉
Hi did you pin which brackets you used as there are so many on Amazon n they have mixed reviews, rather use some that someone has tried n liked 😊 by the way saved my hubby a big job me watching this 😉, as I want 4 long chunky shelves put up in our lounge n he was like... it'll take forever to make n put these up I've only got 1 day off n I've got the ceiling to paint too 😆ooops , bless so yes a big thanks from my hubby 😀
I'm pretty sure i linked the ones I used in the description, but from ive seen they all are of a similar construction. Most bad reviews come from people not installing properly or using them for something theyre not suitable for.
I'm looking to source some live wood (wavey front) and was thinking they'd look great floated, so really useful to see what you used and how it turned out, thanks. After struggling with a masonry drill drilling into engineering bricks up the side of an alcove I invested in an SDS drill - the right tool if you're finding even new bits don't make much impression.
Knots are ok. I would have left them. Looks more rustic... and natural. :)
Thanks for this great vid since I neither have the patience, the space the tools nor the skills!