Most of these comments are either "Will it work for me?" or "This product line is overrated." I had very good experience with the 6AL that was installed in my Ranchero in the '90s. The improvement in idle quality of the mildly modified 302 with single-point distributor was immediately noticeable, and probably attributable to the multi-spark discharge technology, In theory, it ensures that if the first spark fails to fire the cylinder, then the second or third spark might do the job. This would also tend to lower emissions, which is why some Ford Ranger 2.3 liter engines had dual spark plugs. I didn't try measuring changes in spark plug voltage or plug life, although those can also be factors. As a few commenters noted, this isn't for everyone, but it works for some of us.
@@tonychavez239 thanks. I thought maybe I missed one of those Ford engines. People talk sh!t about the 360. But they are a good solid reliable running engine. I just rebuilt one last month. Had my favorite cam grinders, Delta Cam in Tacoma, polish up a fresh stock 428 cj cam and am going to try it in this engine. Two important things for that engine. Deep six the poor exhaust manifolds and use a Ford duraspark and distributor.
Good afternoon, very good explanation, I have a question: I would like to install the MSD 6AL and the coil (s) for a Silverado 2005 V8 Vortec 5.3lts. Stock, and I doubt that it is needed in total for the installation of the 6AL. If only with the 6AL or also the coils or what else do I need? Similarly if it is only one coil or is it one per cylinder (8 in total)? Since I can't find a video to explain to me about that model and what I need, I would really appreciate your answer, thanks in advance.
Which MSD would I need for a fox with a Vortech supercharger? What does the boost control in the box do? What if the timing is already set? Do I still need the control?
hey guys, i have the 6al digital, with the msd billit dis, and im having trouble with the timing. for some reason my timing retards at low rpm then advances making it hard to set advanced timing, any advice?
2024 here. And daaaaaamn look at how far things have come. Talking about imagining vehicles hitting 8k rpm while vehicles now a days get off at 10k rpm
I have the street fire cdi on my 383 stroker that's making around 700rwhp and I wanted to know what the gap should be set at cause I'm getting some funky ass plug colors since I installed this cdi box
I can't look up the tach I use, but I have one that works with MSD 6AL. There are two issues that the autometer might have. One they may be simply telling you to not use the feed off the MSD box. Two, more than likely the autometer won't work with the noise that an electronic iginition generates. You typically hear it in the radio. I had this issue with my radio and some sequential rear lights in by 69 mustang. there is a noise filter that you can buy that might fix the issue with the autometer tach. www.summitracing.com/tx/parts/msd-8830/overview/?cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-msd-ignition
Hey guys I wanna buy the Pro-Billet Tach Drive Distributor (8572) but I wanted the MSD 6al digital will it fit? I have a 400ci sb Chevy if not witch kit is available with tach for Rev counter? Thanks in advance
I wanna take an engine that uses coil packs with no previous carb versions made and make my own intake and swap it to carbureted but keep the coil packs, which box should I run? I don't want an ecu on it, just want coil packs and a carb
“More than you need” but not more than I want. I INSTANTLY noticed a power increase the second I crunk my truck up with the 6al. Like impossible to tell me it didn’t gain at least 30/40 hp
@@lotus_8773 It is all in your head. The stock ignition system was lighting off your engine enough to keep the computer from giving you a misfire code. Firing your plugs twice only wear them out sooner.
What load? As the RPM’s go up, cylinder pressure drops. It’s called volumetric efficiency. Unless you have a power adder that changes cylinder pressure, the coil only produces as much secondary voltage as needed. After decades of looking at an engine analyzer for inconsistency between cylinders to ensure the equal opportunity is there, I see no reason for this system. For GM, over two decades use plug wires with a wire wrapped around an aramid fiber core measuring at 8 to 12 ohms per foot, instead of 40 - 50 ohms per foot like the ones sold by “MSD”. The coil if one per cylinder or a single coil can have lower primary resistance which leads to high voltage when turned off, via mutual induction (Step-up transformer) but other than lower amperage and using circuitry that switches 3 mosfets per micro-second, just increases the length of duration. Battery available is used on the primary side of the coil, otherwise the leakage thru the insulation would be horrible. The voltage in the secondary is limited by ohms law and produces only voltage needed to jump the spark plugs gap. Using one coil per cylinder allows for longer magnetic saturation, resulting in more potential for voltage induced into the secondary of the coil, but not used. Have multiple sparks per event in the air gap of a spark plug outside a running engine looks impressive but can’t justify the expense! That is if you see, if looking at the scope of an engine analyzer or any secondary display. Otherwise, this is an expensive dog & pony show for everyone who knows nothing about ignition, cylinder pressures, A/F ratio and how electricity works in a step-up transformer, painted red. I can’t find anyone to justify the expense or benefits unless you are a full blown race car the each injector can provide zip to 1 liter per second to a single cylinder. This is my experience wanting to know what makes this system better than factory. Otherwise they would use it to reduce emissions while increasing HP. At $40 - 50k, what is the additional expense in the manufacturing process to spend an extra $38.12? Compared to their current ignition system, I don’t see any advantage from a technical point. ASE Master Tech + L1 Since 1978 - Retired
Dean, may I ask your advice based on your experience and education? I have a 1981 GMC C3500 with a 350 4 bbl, th400, 14 bolt with 4.56:1. The head gaskets blew last year and the job was performed at a friend's shop. His new tech lost my distributor so they installed an aftermarket fancy cheapo HEI. The problem is the power has never been the same. This truck has a diamond plate bed floor, roof rack, and hydraulic lift gate. It is always loaded heavy and this is the truck I use for towing when my newer 2004 Dodge diesel isn't available. I don't expect the GMC to compete with the Cummins... I just want the GMC to perform how I know a properly tuned small block can. When the truck was empty it used to be able to do a burn out and it would accelerate fast enough to hurt a few better cars at the stop lights. It towed beautifully. I know the centrifugal weight springs are probably incorrect for my application and this distributor also came with an adjustable vacuum advance diaphragm that is set with an allen key down the hose barb. How do I make this right? Do you have some general guidelines? Does my tow vehicle require lighter springs or heavier springs in there? I can no longer get the "correct" vacuum advance diaphragm so I'm forced to tune this one to my needs and I'm not sure which way to play with it. Please and thank you.
@@xmo552 Please try to get a dial-advance timing light. Clean and ensure “0” is TDC. Check with spark tester first for strength. ACDelco P/N ST125 is spark tester 25,000 volts or 25Kv. Unplug vacuum timing advance & plug. Run and set to 10 or 12 degrees before TDC (If under hood spec label, follow it) Vacuum check advance with pump or simple hose check. Make sure it works. Spring on good weights lubed on good bushings could have same or mix of colored springs. If HEI, #1 think lost or left out is metal ground strap from coil screw to cap connector. I have 3 extras in drawer! Key B+, Ground connect on bottom, third is tach! With engine warm to idle, set base timing at 10, 12, or 14 degrees BDC. Springs add 21 degrees advance as springs open smoothly. Vacuum advance plugs into carb at Venturi port, meaning no vacuum at idle. As air speed increases across Venturi, vacuum increases. The vacuum advance adds to total advance adding 21 degrees of advance until WOT. So let’s review, say 12* at crank, 1/2 of 21* of springs (Dist 1/2 speed of crank) + 12* 1/2 of 21* of springs = 12* crank 12* springs 12* vacuum Total at 3k RPM = 48-52 degrees BTDC advance. Good strong 25Kv spark. Good distributor coil / base housing ground. Set base timing, watch spring & vacuum advance with advance timing light (Set to 52*, run engine until zero = 52*) With timing set, use needle nose pliers and pinch off large hose from carbon canister. If RPM’s drop, bad purge valve, change or plug as long as vacuum lines to thermal vacuum switch good unless electric solenoid. (Varies on newer years say 89 & up) Carbureted, engine off, run screws in until seated, back off 3 1/2 turns. Start, run screws 1/2 turn in until idle drops, stop at even turns and back out until engine runs smooth. Should ok as long as carb & other ok like vacuum leaks. Done this hundreds of time as removing distributor and checking settings on sun machine as part of tune up. We rebuilt carbs, starters, alternators as parts in box meant new from dealer. Could have been reman parts but never saw them! Best of luck! DK, Omaha. ASE Master retired.
@@jesse75 grounding the engine is a complex adventure. The alternator has to be grounded to the block, the frame, chassis, cab (On Trucks) and bed. But to complete any circuit back to the battery has to be completed. Other wise you have a voltage drop on painted engines with no wire & star washer into the back of the alternator to block. These star washers cut into metal to complete the return circuit. With a digital Volt-Ohm Meter (Fluke 87 type 5) run with current in a working circuit test across the wire to battery ground or B+ to see loss. It should be less than 0.030 volts! This measurement is a standard check. Like a parasitic drain on GM's after 2003. So, shut off, remove key, place a high amperage switch between the battery and vehicle's electrical system. (Note; New Ultra Low Emissions Vehicles) have systems come active to check "Engine Off, Natural Vacuum" in the EVAP software. But older vehicles don't. But electrical load shedding has been common on GM's since 2012. The systems shut down as the same as powered up in reverse. This comes down to higher MPG, as the government imposes penalties on car companies that exceed CAFE numbers. (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) numbers as they sell higher numbers of fuel efficient vehicles as compared to Corvette's. Google "The big three engine grounds" Best of luck on your project! DK, ASE Master since 78.
Look at that, a young David Freiburger.
Most of these comments are either "Will it work for me?" or "This product line is overrated." I had very good experience with the 6AL that was installed in my Ranchero in the '90s. The improvement in idle quality of the mildly modified 302 with single-point distributor was immediately noticeable, and probably attributable to the multi-spark discharge technology, In theory, it ensures that if the first spark fails to fire the cylinder, then the second or third spark might do the job. This would also tend to lower emissions, which is why some Ford Ranger 2.3 liter engines had dual spark plugs.
I didn't try measuring changes in spark plug voltage or plug life, although those can also be factors. As a few commenters noted, this isn't for everyone, but it works for some of us.
We've added the MSD site and tech line info in the description. That's your best resource for troubleshooting the issue!
Can i just change an old round style coil and put a newer99 or 98 coil for more spark on gm u think that will work
Next time I need a 3/8" spark plug gap, I'm definitely getting one of those boxes.
😂
Can I use this box in my 1970 f100 with 370? And let me know if I need to change the distributor
What's a 370 ?
360 Engine Sorry phone correct it!
@@tonychavez239 thanks. I thought maybe I missed one of those Ford engines.
People talk sh!t about the 360. But they are a good solid reliable running engine.
I just rebuilt one last month. Had my favorite cam grinders, Delta Cam in Tacoma, polish up a fresh stock 428 cj cam and am going to try it in this engine.
Two important things for that engine. Deep six the poor exhaust manifolds and use a Ford duraspark and distributor.
Could this be used on 2006 Jeep Liberty Sport and or 2006-2007 Dodge Durango.
David had hair?
Ouch! lol
Do MSD do an ignition that makes it so you don't need coil packs and or a module on your car?
Good afternoon, very good explanation, I have a question: I would like to install the MSD 6AL and the coil (s) for a Silverado 2005 V8 Vortec 5.3lts. Stock, and I doubt that it is needed in total for the installation of the 6AL. If only with the 6AL or also the coils or what else do I need? Similarly if it is only one coil or is it one per cylinder (8 in total)? Since I can't find a video to explain to me about that model and what I need, I would really appreciate your answer, thanks in advance.
Big fan of roadkill!
David looks so fucking hippy Here 😂😂
can a 6700 box be uesd in place of a 6200 box , on a chevy v8??
Which MSD would I need for a fox with a Vortech supercharger? What does the boost control in the box do? What if the timing is already set? Do I still need the control?
Wow look so young amazing what 10yrs does to you.
hey guys, i have the 6al digital, with the msd billit dis, and im having trouble with the timing. for some reason my timing retards at low rpm then advances making it hard to set advanced timing, any advice?
PIZMORIDERS figure this out? i have the same problem
2024 here. And daaaaaamn look at how far things have come. Talking about imagining vehicles hitting 8k rpm while vehicles now a days get off at 10k rpm
Can I use this with my stock distributor? Got a 87 Cutlass, V8 307 Stock. And which box would be best for my setup?
yes use a 6a or 6al
Can you give me tips on installing a msd 6al on a 22 r efi I can’t get it to start
If you Google MSD for 22r / 22re it will show you a diagram on how too. I am stuck on the same boat trying to figure it all out. I too have a 22re.
I have the street fire cdi on my 383 stroker that's making around 700rwhp and I wanted to know what the gap should be set at cause I'm getting some funky ass plug colors since I installed this cdi box
700 hp.... you wish lol
@@MichelLinschoten how does that sound impossible
You guys are great. Love y'all's channel.
hi, which do you recommend for a 1976 corvette l82 350? thanks
Too bad those boxes are now made in China and break constantly. I’ve gone through 4 in 7 years.
I'm on my second 6btm . Plus they went up a lot in price
my automter tach says not to use an msd box, will it kill my tach?
I can't look up the tach I use, but I have one that works with MSD 6AL. There are two issues that the autometer might have. One they may be simply telling you to not use the feed off the MSD box. Two, more than likely the autometer won't work with the noise that an electronic iginition generates. You typically hear it in the radio. I had this issue with my radio and some sequential rear lights in by 69 mustang. there is a noise filter that you can buy that might fix the issue with the autometer tach. www.summitracing.com/tx/parts/msd-8830/overview/?cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-msd-ignition
Hey guys I wanna buy the Pro-Billet Tach Drive Distributor (8572) but I wanted the MSD 6al digital will it fit? I have a 400ci sb Chevy if not witch kit is available with tach for Rev counter? Thanks in advance
Running nitrous how much is this
I wanna take an engine that uses coil packs with no previous carb versions made and make my own intake and swap it to carbureted but keep the coil packs, which box should I run? I don't want an ecu on it, just want coil packs and a carb
killer120 lol going back to the stone age !
lol found it, gotta get the lsx coil packs, msd distributorless box, setup a crank and cam trigger and good to go, fuck yeahhhh man
Doesn't GM's HEI deliver 40,000 volts??????????
You just sold a 6A BTM, thanks I'm off to Summit. Seriously
1:00 Show me a spark plug with a gap that wide. Your stock ignition is more than you need.
“More than you need” but not more than I want. I INSTANTLY noticed a power increase the second I crunk my truck up with the 6al. Like impossible to tell me it didn’t gain at least 30/40 hp
@@lotus_8773 It is all in your head. The stock ignition system was lighting off your engine enough to keep the computer from giving you a misfire code. Firing your plugs twice only wear them out sooner.
The FAt boy at street outlaws😂👍
BAM !!
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cant wait to hook up my programmable ;)
I need for bmw e46 .. ?
@:45 who the hell is gapping the spark plugs at half and inch!? Hahaha
Roob Burg
Walker Cynthia Martin Thomas Rodriguez Ronald
I just want a button on my dashboard that says “boost retard” 🥴
David looks like the white easy-e
love the tech ..but this soundtrack is wack .. you guys need a audio editor guy !
500 volts to the coil? Mad u have bumped your head.
..Yes...I built a Heath-Kit CDI way back in the 1970's...supplied around 400 volts to coil...
Doug Ankrum Name one car that come from the factory with MSD.
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What load? As the RPM’s go up, cylinder pressure drops. It’s called volumetric efficiency. Unless you have a power adder that changes cylinder pressure, the coil only produces as much secondary voltage as needed. After decades of looking at an engine analyzer for inconsistency between cylinders to ensure the equal opportunity is there, I see no reason for this system. For GM, over two decades use plug wires with a wire wrapped around an aramid fiber core measuring at 8 to 12 ohms per foot, instead of 40 - 50 ohms per foot like the ones sold by “MSD”. The coil if one per cylinder or a single coil can have lower primary resistance which leads to high voltage when turned off, via mutual induction (Step-up transformer) but other than lower amperage and using circuitry that switches 3 mosfets per micro-second, just increases the length of duration. Battery available is used on the primary side of the coil, otherwise the leakage thru the insulation would be horrible. The voltage in the secondary is limited by ohms law and produces only voltage needed to jump the spark plugs gap. Using one coil per cylinder allows for longer magnetic saturation, resulting in more potential for voltage induced into the secondary of the coil, but not used.
Have multiple sparks per event in the air gap of a spark plug outside a running engine looks impressive but can’t justify the expense! That is if you see, if looking at the scope of an engine analyzer or any secondary display. Otherwise, this is an expensive dog & pony show for everyone who knows nothing about ignition, cylinder pressures, A/F ratio and how electricity works in a step-up transformer, painted red. I can’t find anyone to justify the expense or benefits unless you are a full blown race car the each injector can provide zip to 1 liter per second to a single cylinder.
This is my experience wanting to know what makes this system better than factory. Otherwise they would use it to reduce emissions while increasing HP. At $40 - 50k, what is the additional expense in the manufacturing process to spend an extra $38.12? Compared to their current ignition system, I don’t see any advantage from a technical point.
ASE Master Tech + L1 Since 1978 - Retired
Dean, may I ask your advice based on your experience and education? I have a 1981 GMC C3500 with a 350 4 bbl, th400, 14 bolt with 4.56:1. The head gaskets blew last year and the job was performed at a friend's shop. His new tech lost my distributor so they installed an aftermarket fancy cheapo HEI.
The problem is the power has never been the same. This truck has a diamond plate bed floor, roof rack, and hydraulic lift gate. It is always loaded heavy and this is the truck I use for towing when my newer 2004 Dodge diesel isn't available. I don't expect the GMC to compete with the Cummins... I just want the GMC to perform how I know a properly tuned small block can. When the truck was empty it used to be able to do a burn out and it would accelerate fast enough to hurt a few better cars at the stop lights. It towed beautifully.
I know the centrifugal weight springs are probably incorrect for my application and this distributor also came with an adjustable vacuum advance diaphragm that is set with an allen key down the hose barb.
How do I make this right?
Do you have some general guidelines? Does my tow vehicle require lighter springs or heavier springs in there?
I can no longer get the "correct" vacuum advance diaphragm so I'm forced to tune this one to my needs and I'm not sure which way to play with it.
Please and thank you.
@@xmo552 Please try to get a dial-advance timing light. Clean and ensure “0” is TDC. Check with spark tester first for strength. ACDelco P/N ST125 is spark tester 25,000 volts or 25Kv. Unplug vacuum timing advance & plug. Run and set to 10 or 12 degrees before TDC (If under hood spec label, follow it) Vacuum check advance with pump or simple hose check. Make sure it works. Spring on good weights lubed on good bushings could have same or mix of colored springs. If HEI, #1 think lost or left out is metal ground strap from coil screw to cap connector. I have 3 extras in drawer! Key B+, Ground connect on bottom, third is tach!
With engine warm to idle, set base timing at 10, 12, or 14 degrees BDC. Springs add 21 degrees advance as springs open smoothly. Vacuum advance plugs into carb at Venturi port, meaning no vacuum at idle. As air speed increases across Venturi, vacuum increases. The vacuum advance adds to total advance adding 21 degrees of advance until WOT.
So let’s review, say 12* at crank, 1/2 of 21* of springs (Dist 1/2 speed of crank) + 12* 1/2 of 21* of springs =
12* crank
12* springs
12* vacuum
Total at 3k RPM = 48-52 degrees BTDC advance.
Good strong 25Kv spark.
Good distributor coil / base housing ground.
Set base timing, watch spring & vacuum advance with advance timing light (Set to 52*, run engine until zero = 52*)
With timing set, use needle nose pliers and pinch off large hose from carbon canister. If RPM’s drop, bad purge valve, change or plug as long as vacuum lines to thermal vacuum switch good unless electric solenoid. (Varies on newer years say 89 & up)
Carbureted, engine off, run screws in until seated, back off 3 1/2 turns.
Start, run screws 1/2 turn in until idle drops, stop at even turns and back out until engine runs smooth. Should ok as long as carb & other ok like vacuum leaks. Done this hundreds of time as removing distributor and checking settings on sun machine as part of tune up. We rebuilt carbs, starters, alternators as parts in box meant new from dealer. Could have been reman parts but never saw them!
Best of luck! DK, Omaha. ASE Master retired.
@@deankay4434great explanation. But you went over his head.
Hope it was just a ground strap.
@@jesse75 grounding the engine is a complex adventure. The alternator has to be grounded to the block, the frame, chassis, cab (On Trucks) and bed. But to complete any circuit back to the battery has to be completed. Other wise you have a voltage drop on painted engines with no wire & star washer into the back of the alternator to block. These star washers cut into metal to complete the return circuit. With a digital Volt-Ohm Meter (Fluke 87 type 5) run with current in a working circuit test across the wire to battery ground or B+ to see loss. It should be less than 0.030 volts! This measurement is a standard check. Like a parasitic drain on GM's after 2003. So, shut off, remove key, place a high amperage switch between the battery and vehicle's electrical system. (Note; New Ultra Low Emissions Vehicles) have systems come active to check "Engine Off, Natural Vacuum" in the EVAP software. But older vehicles don't. But electrical load shedding has been common on GM's since 2012. The systems shut down as the same as powered up in reverse. This comes down to higher MPG, as the government imposes penalties on car companies that exceed CAFE numbers.
(Corporate Average Fuel Economy) numbers as they sell higher numbers of fuel efficient vehicles as compared to Corvette's.
Google "The big three engine grounds"
Best of luck on your project! DK, ASE Master since 78.
Conn Lakes
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Just found this video omg fryberger has hair
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I wouldn't dwell on it. Lol
Lol finnegan copy fail.....
Can I use this box in my 1970 f100 with 370? And let me know if I need to change the distributor