Well, it’s good Ava is coming. If you guys can tolerate one another aboard Athena while work continues, sailing around the world with one another should be a cinch, LOL. The boat is really coming together. You are just an amazing Jack-of-all trades.
Mads: "I really want to simplify the head as much as possible so there are as few points of failure as possible" Also Mads: *adds freaking Bluetooth to the head*
Mads, just a suggestion... You may want to add a pump out feature. Once you are in the US you need to be a long way offshore to dump your blackwater tank. Most boats pump out while inshore.
It might actually be a requirement to have a pump out capability. In the Great Lakes, diverted valves for dumping in the water must be secured in a fashion that makes them unusable e.g. wired stationary.
I just started watching your channel. Wow, your skills are unbelievable. You are very handy with tools. You have done so many things to your old boat. She is so high tech, I would be worried about things going wrong. I circumnavigated in a very simple boat. No Bluetooth head, no Gen. set, no radar, no electric windless, no water maker, no SSB Radio, no hot/cold pressure water, no, chart plotter, no iPad, no AIS transceiver, no solar panels, no autopilot, no LED lights I had paper charts, a sextant ( later a hand held GPS) a VHF radio, and A wind vane.
You must be so excited to see Ava in person. It must have been such a trying time! I for one won't mind if you have other priorities on your mind other than producing a video next week.
If there's no deck level pump-out, your boat doesn't qualify as a having a holding tank. The toilet will have to be sealed while in the states. Also while using gravity to clear the holding tank is a good idea, it will clear just to the waterline and no further. You don't have any means that I can see to clear the rest of the discharge line with water. Good luck, I don't miss a Sunday episode and I'm anxious to get sailing.
I think you're right. When we bought our boat in Seattle we were informed the handle to operate the over board discharge of the holding tank must be removed. It could be on the boat somewhere, but not on the valve.
I've been following along regularly since before you moved aboard Obelix. I live in Edinburgh Scotland and happy to provide any local knowledge or run something in a car while you are here. Feel free to reach out.
Buy a handful of the lip seals between the motor and macerator at your local bearing supply store. Replace the steel spring with an o-ring. Any time you have the head apart for any reason change this seal. Then you will never need the spare motor. The Elegance with both fresh and raw water switch is the best marine head we have owned. Enjoy.
How about a copper flat bar extension for the terminals on the winch? Copper should be easy enough to bend in a vise and it looks like you'd have a lot more options to negotiate the tight space.
I am getting quite excited about Ava arriving - so you must be beside yourself with anticipation. Good luck to you both and I am trusting all will go well. Phil
Thanks for entertaining me for the last 5 years Mads, im looking foward to seeing how the channel grows with the new "including Ava" format. Its been an amazing journey so far.
Hey Mads, I know you're pressed for time, but give this idea some thought...... maybe you can extend the motor cover of the winch with fiberglass or use the existing cover as a mould to create a longer cover.
Can you rotate the motor 120 deg so the terminals come off the side instead of on top? This would allow the wires to not have to loop over the end of the motor.
I accidentally set fire to my boat because I went with smaller gauge wire on my windlass. After removing a melted mass of wires, I went with bigger than recommended to avoid that nightmare again. Strongly recommend modifying the housing before going with smaller wire.
I cannot believe it's been over 5 years. On one hand I'm so excited for you, almost to the end and actually getting back to cruising. Although on the other hand I've come to really enjoy the DIY Mads. The Mads I knew in 2016 is a very different fella than the Mads of 2021, and thats not a bad thing! I'm proud of you and thank you for taking us on this journey over the years. I'm a little sad one chapter of this story is closing but the book is far from over. :)
I think there is some flat cable out there for the windlass. That stuff should be more bendable without risking to melt the cable during anchor operations.
Mads, did you just say you plan to replace the last 40cm of windlass wire with a smaller gauge (18:00 into the video)?? If you do that, your entire line will be equivalent to the smallest gauge wire in the loop! If that gauge is sufficient, there's no point in running the thicker (much more expensive) gauge wire at all, you should just stick to the smaller gauge. Otherwise, don't use the smaller gauge unless you like starting fires in your boat.
Sending best wishes seeing your room mate soon arrives. You are a better man than I living in a small space in the middle of the ocean with someone you have not lived with before. You seem to be a patient fellow and I truly send sincere Best Wishes to both of you.
Great, as ever. You might want to add a valve directly below the holding tank to stop 'things' compressing in the pipe between there and the valve on the hull.
Windless Wiring thought for you: I'm short on details about the distance from source and amperage draw of the windless but my guess is the up-sized wiring is needed to compensate for voltage drop over the distance between source (battery) and windless. That in mind, have you considered a short run of the minimum sized wiring to get you to the interior of the boat and then transition to the larger sized wiring to compensate for drop?. As long as your fusing (breaker) is sized for the over-current protection of the smaller conductor size, you'll have overcome all of your wiring challenges (voltage drop and conductor protection, physical size issues). Good luck and safe travels to the USA.
For venting the black water tank just stick a charcoal filter on top of the tank so you don’t have to drill any holes in the hull or deck, also I cant remember if you have a sewage pump out on the deck
When using contact adhesive it usually helps if you sand both surfaces before applying the glue. I build Ribs and not sanding is definitely the most common reason for contact adhesive not working properly.
Foam tapes are available with adhesive tape ready on them . The tapes with VHB adhesives are bullet proof and would serve you way better than contact glue which will fail in the not so distant future .
It does sadly make sense, to adjust flushing and log motor hours by bt is going to be way cheaper than doing it in hardware. Still, the mere thought of calling a help desk because the toilet won't flush...He's a braver man than I. (G)
That's it the next time we seee yoou it will be as a team. Your smile seemed a bit bigger than usual and for a good reason. Looking forward to your next video.
I am SO excited for Mads & Ava to finally be working and living on Athena TOGETHER!!! It's been a long journey from when Athena sailed over from Scotland. Sooooo much fiberglass work. To see the improvements made to Athena has been very interesting and educational. Thanks to Sail Life, I actually understand what Parlay Revival are doing right now to their boat. Both Sail Life and Parlay seem to have to repair and improve deficiencies from the manufacturer. They could talk shop all night I'm sure.
Started watching about mid 2018, or early 2019? Give or take. Really enjoying all the content you've produced. Your passion is like that of a car or truck guy, and I admire your drive and all stuff that keeps you on track. I'm Always having hard time waiting for next week to show up. So I returned to when you purchased Athena and marathon all videos to date. What a assume trip it's been. I'm glad you have a first mate now. Journey on!! Keep producing videos I'll keep watching. 👍👍
Things I never thought I would hear on this channel: "diagnostics for the toilet...we can change the timing of the different phases". Do not forget to bring a back-up: very large plastic funnel and a good length of polypropylene line.
Would want to be miles (or kilometers) away when the electronics fail and Ava has to hold it. Give me the old analog system for reliability, please. Wifey will be happier with less chance of failure.
Go time! It took us weeks to clear out our condo and get it up for sale when we moved onto our boat before we cut the lines. You are way ahead having ditched the dirt house years ago. I hope Ava likes Athena and everything goes well with her joining the crew. I think going without a y-valve will be a good thing. Here in the USA they are really finicky about the Y-valve and having it locked off in some areas. In others, such as the Great Lakes, just having it is against the rules. It would have to be disconnected just to enter those areas. The Great Lakes is an awesome place to cruise, you will want to check it out when you come here.
For the windlass wires, can’t you turn the cable connections, on the motor, 180°, so the cables go forward, over the motor, and not back behind the motor?
I find it curious that you are planning on draining the holding tank by gravity. I’m thinking that the contents which will be much chunkier than water, might not drain so well. Also, while offshore, there’s no need to use the holding tank, but you will need the vented loop. Great video Mads!
Good episode Mads. I am not sure where in Ireland you are planning to spend some of the winter. If at any stage you will want to work on the boat yourself while it is on the hard it is worth knowing that not every marina/yard allows this. Thankfully in Malahide (North Dublin) marina they do allow owners to work on their boats while on the hard. I believe that the owners can also remain living aboard while they do so. If there is anything I can do to help while you are here just let me know.
I swear this is the fastest 20 minutes ever.My Kona coffee ☕ didn't even get cold. Ooo will I'll just have to watch it again. Ooo and I would have gone with option A on the head. The less you have to use the holding tank the better. And you may want to put a mercerator on the tank. Because the solids tend to build up if you don't. Something I learned the hard way. It is Way easier to do that Now Before you start using it. Thank you so much for the video and tell next Sunday Morning 🌄 Aloha and Mahalo from the Big Island 🏝of Hawaii 🏝
As soon as you are 15 miles off Inverness wee Sturgeon will send up a couple of her-biplanes and a Zeppelin to ward you off Mads hahaha!! Hope to see you and Ava in the Clyde big guy !!X
I wonder if that chain counter sensor could be mounted under the deck. It might be a lot safer there. Maybe? Great video Mads! Amazing work, really top notch.
Mad's your putting to much pressure on yourself. Your gonna work till you drop. I understand the weather in the North Sea a couple of weeks or more is not going to hurt. Plus you need some shake down time. Love your energy!!!!
A comment on the windless wiring...a thought would be to put a wire block bar with the heavier gauge cable in the cabin space, then just run an appropriate gauge wire from the block to the the windless.....no need to run all new cable to the power source..... John
Great progress! Is it worth epoxying a strip of wood on the wall just above the tech room hatch so that at least any water running down that wall diverts away from the seal?
I think you are on to something. Put a pitch on it to drain the water off to the side you prefer. If you need to dress it up turn it into a small shower self. Might be a good weekend project while in Scotland.
Is it possible to 180 the motor in the windlass, and mount the wires facing forwards. That would also angle the wires in the correct place to go into the sole.
I don't mean to add to your to-do list, but you're going to need a macerator to empty your holding tank. Toilet paper has a way of clogging any kind of piping. As a test, you might fill the tank with slurry of toilet paper, water, and, say, oatmeal. Then open the drain and see how long it takes for the tank to empty. Also, you might consider installing a much larger holding tank. In the US, overboard discharge is prohibited, while at the same time pump-out stations can be few and far between or functionally inaccessible. (In some areas, discharge from Lectra-San units is permitted, but that, too, can be sketchy. Best of luck!
Mads, you need the vented loop on the simple version too. It keeps the poop from siphoning back out of the poop tank (which is what I now call a holding tank every chance I get) and overflowing your head. Ick.
Best practice is to determine how much water your hose holds and make sure you flush at least that much through the system.. the hose will start to stink if you leave waste in it at all. Look at Peggy Hall’s extensive stuff on marine holding tank stuff. Especially the drain hose below the tank. Best put an additional valve right at the tank bottom.
In my Catalina 310, I am in the process of totally replacing the plumbing. I added an electric flush toilet for my wife. It has a macerator pump built in as does yours. The toilet connects directly to the holding tank as in your "plan B". The low point of the holding tank exits to a "Tee". One side of the "tee" goes to a second macerator pump then to the through hull valve. The other side goes to a pump-out tube. I did not see a pump-out tube in today's video. I am happy to have two macerator pumps to better slice up the solid materials. The post-holding tank pump will assist in drawing out the settled out solids. I too am trying to eliminate any of the "head odor" sources. It is important to empty the holding tank often AND flush it at least once before using it again.
Watch out heading for Scotland. The wicked witch of the North stopped a cruise ship from docking here the other week. I also have a hatred of contact glue. I think it only works on bike tyres and then you have to seriously rough up the 2 faces with sandpaper. Ambient heat and humidity are another factor in making it work. I know it is useless in the tropics.
How about going with B and use B for Bucket as a bypass if ever needed :-) After all the only thing that does not break on a boat is that what you don‘t have. Keep up the good work Mads
I built in a vent and discharge line on my main head during a refit 3 years ago. I sail coastal pretty often so I thought it would be an advantage. I think I have used it twice. I either forget to use it, or its just not necessary. Adding in a bypass and vent realistically is a 2 hour job once the system is in place. I would wait until you know you need it, rather than pre-empt a potentially problematic system you might not need. I would be more inclined to build in an inspection port into the holding tank, also make sure your shower head can reach the inspection port so you can make a really bad job at least a quick job.
I like the direction Teal (with Onboard Lifestyle) went with. He put in standard, bare bones, manual pump flush heads. His thought process was simplicity, easy to maintain and repair, and easy access to parts worldwide.
Show the rubber seals some rough sandpaper before applying the contact glue and it will stick. I have a normal small SS thru hull as an air went for the holding tank.
If you have a macerate before the holding tank, no problem with the single circuit option. If you do not, then have the option to by-pass. I’ve had both setups, and the former is the better.
The seawater intake line to the head can also be a source of noxious odors when seawater remains inside for a significant period of time. The microscopic sea life dies inside the stagnant water and creates a pungent aroma.
When I refitted my Ericson, I installed a macerator pump in between the head and tank. With a convenient switch within reach. It turned a manual head into an electric one, and ensure everything was properly liquified before making it to the tank. Make it easier to drain and rinse. Enough poop talk.
I can't believe Ava is going to be there on Friday...the boat is looking amazing Mads, I am certain she will be thrilled with all you have done. I can't wait until you are sailing together 😊👍 Godspeed and safe travels Ava 😊🙏
Lofrans also uses a glue to keep the contacts inside the motor together , putting pressure on the terminals will break them. Luckily a good electric rebuild shop can fix this major design flaw. Ask me how I know....
I would use the Y valve, we have that set up and it is nice to be able to bypass the holding tank. We keep the seacock shut and only open it when needed to use the toilet. After all you have tossed the lack of complexity out the window with the head you put in..
I would go for option C in the plumbing: Put the diverter valve between the holding tank and the sea valve. This will flush the outlet of the holding tank from below every time you use it and will help to prevent clogging the outlet. Hallberg Rassy is doing this with two ball valves instead of a three way valve and it seems to work well.
Love that you went with the simpler plumbing on your Bluetooth enabled toilet. You wouldn't want it to be complicated : ) Seriously, why do you need to flush your toilet from the nav station? I can forsee something leaning on the button, holding tank overflowing...
Love your videos always having orders and buying gagets. Love all the controls and the beautiful work you have done. You are a very clever man. Extremely talented! Sending regards from Australia. Xxx
Thanks Mads so excited for you with Eva coming over really hope everything works a OK🤞 You both deserve it. Have loved all the diy work but I am looking forward to see you crusing and see how the boat and systems really perform when used in anger. Just know your sailing chanel won't be one of the generic ones😁 I am going down to kirkcudbright in two weeks time, my better half (wife) doesn't get it when i say this where Mads got Athena....? 😅 would be great if we could do a 🏴 Scottish Sail Life meet when you come back over I am sure they would be other Scottish followers happy to share a drink and chat. Obviously in a covid safe way. Good luck👍🏻
Might need a deck fitting for pump out if you sail to the US, many areas are no discharge zones...maybe it is there but not in the hose diagram,..these are a vacuum pump system on the dock or pump out boat....
Holding tank: In USA and most part of Canada, in no-discharge zones (usually within three miles from shore), you must have a holding tank and you must "secure the device to prevent overboard discharge". That mean closing the seacock and remove the handle or adding a padlock. If you get a visit from authorities onboard, the fine is around 2000USD if not compliant... I suggest you install a "pump out" option to your plumbing diagram. Ref.: www.epa.gov/vessels-marinas-and-ports/vessel-sewage-frequently-asked-questions
I am assuming you will have to get the boat surveyed/inspected to insure it. It’ll be very interesting to learn what an inspection dude is going to say about Athena
I was just wondering if you could make some custom lugs for your windless so the wire doesn't have to bend around like they are and maybe use heat shrink to insulate them?
Definitely go for the diverter to bypass the holding tank. You do not want to be filling it up with water which is fine to go straight over the side in a marina environment.
Well, it’s good Ava is coming. If you guys can tolerate one another aboard Athena while work continues, sailing around the world with one another should be a cinch, LOL. The boat is really coming together. You are just an amazing Jack-of-all trades.
"pooping using v.2.8 like some kind of peasant" was the big winner on the internet today
priceless
5:20 Cement Boat is looking pretty good
Mads: "I really want to simplify the head as much as possible so there are as few points of failure as possible"
Also Mads: *adds freaking Bluetooth to the head*
I had same thoughts
Mads, just a suggestion... You may want to add a pump out feature. Once you are in the US you need to be a long way offshore to dump your blackwater tank. Most boats pump out while inshore.
It might actually be a requirement to have a pump out capability. In the Great Lakes, diverted valves for dumping in the water must be secured in a fashion that makes them unusable e.g. wired stationary.
For aircraft seals we hand scuff the rubber and the door its mounting to with scotchbrite pads before applying adhesive, gives it more to bond to.
Heat shrink over the threaded rods will prevent those cables chaffing.
I hope you and Ava have a lovely reunion❤️
"Grab the windlass remote and pull up the anchor" Toilet flushes.
I just started watching your channel. Wow, your skills are unbelievable. You are very handy with tools. You have done so many things to your old boat. She is so high tech, I would be worried about things going wrong. I circumnavigated in a very simple boat. No Bluetooth head, no Gen. set, no radar, no electric windless, no water maker, no SSB Radio, no hot/cold pressure water, no, chart plotter, no iPad, no AIS transceiver, no solar panels, no autopilot, no LED lights I had paper charts, a sextant ( later a hand held GPS) a VHF radio, and A wind vane.
Ive had option B for 15 years. Very happy. Simple works.
You must be so excited to see Ava in person. It must have been such a trying time! I for one won't mind if you have other priorities on your mind other than producing a video next week.
If there's no deck level pump-out, your boat doesn't qualify as a having a holding tank. The toilet will have to be sealed while in the states. Also while using gravity to clear the holding tank is a good idea, it will clear just to the waterline and no further. You don't have any means that I can see to clear the rest of the discharge line with water. Good luck, I don't miss a Sunday episode and I'm anxious to get sailing.
I think you're right. When we bought our boat in Seattle we were informed the handle to operate the over board discharge of the holding tank must be removed. It could be on the boat somewhere, but not on the valve.
I've been following along regularly since before you moved aboard Obelix. I live in Edinburgh Scotland and happy to provide any local knowledge or run something in a car while you are here. Feel free to reach out.
"Not magnetic". LOL, Still sane Mads!
Keep pipes simple, keep pipes simple, keep pipes simple! Can't wait to see your girl!
A Blue Tooth tidy bowl flusher? AWESOME!!! As always, great work!
Blue tooth toilet, I've seen it all now !!
Buy a handful of the lip seals between the motor and macerator at your local bearing supply store. Replace the steel spring with an o-ring. Any time you have the head apart for any reason change this seal. Then you will never need the spare motor. The Elegance with both fresh and raw water switch is the best marine head we have owned. Enjoy.
How about a copper flat bar extension for the terminals on the winch?
Copper should be easy enough to bend in a vise and it looks like you'd have a lot more options to negotiate the tight space.
Me thinks that you and Ava will have different definitions of Tidy.. Cheers 🥂
I am getting quite excited about Ava arriving - so you must be beside yourself with anticipation. Good luck to you both and I am trusting all will go well. Phil
I always enjoy updating my toilet's firmware
When "Just off to the head to do a download." isn't a euphemism.
Thanks for entertaining me for the last 5 years Mads, im looking foward to seeing how the channel grows with the new "including Ava" format. Its been an amazing journey so far.
Hey Mads, I know you're pressed for time, but give this idea some thought...... maybe you can extend the motor cover of the winch with fiberglass or use the existing cover as a mould to create a longer cover.
At 18:09 you can see the gap he has between cover and main unit. I like your idea of making a fiberglass extension to cover the gap.
You say you've already voided the warranty. Keep the big wire make a whole new cover if necessary.
@@WaterFaucet24 agreed; making a spacer and replacing bolts to secure cover vs. Changing wire gage.
Can you rotate the motor 120 deg so the terminals come off the side instead of on top? This would allow the wires to not have to loop over the end of the motor.
I accidentally set fire to my boat because I went with smaller gauge wire on my windlass. After removing a melted mass of wires, I went with bigger than recommended to avoid that nightmare again. Strongly recommend modifying the housing before going with smaller wire.
I can’t believe she is almost there! Hello Ava!! You are a brilliant guy and I can’t wait to watch you use this amazing boat and it’s systems. She
Fresh water makes the smell better !for the head
"Pooping like a peasant" - pissed myself laughing at that one!
I cannot believe it's been over 5 years. On one hand I'm so excited for you, almost to the end and actually getting back to cruising. Although on the other hand I've come to really enjoy the DIY Mads. The Mads I knew in 2016 is a very different fella than the Mads of 2021, and thats not a bad thing! I'm proud of you and thank you for taking us on this journey over the years. I'm a little sad one chapter of this story is closing but the book is far from over. :)
I think there is some flat cable out there for the windlass. That stuff should be more bendable without risking to melt the cable during anchor operations.
Remember to build a charcoal filter for your vent. Build it so it can be refillable. Lots of ways to build them
Excellent idea!
Mads, did you just say you plan to replace the last 40cm of windlass wire with a smaller gauge (18:00 into the video)?? If you do that, your entire line will be equivalent to the smallest gauge wire in the loop! If that gauge is sufficient, there's no point in running the thicker (much more expensive) gauge wire at all, you should just stick to the smaller gauge. Otherwise, don't use the smaller gauge unless you like starting fires in your boat.
Sending best wishes seeing your room mate soon arrives. You are a better man than I living in a small space in the middle of the ocean with someone you have not lived with before. You seem to be a patient fellow and I truly send sincere Best Wishes to both of you.
Great, as ever. You might want to add a valve directly below the holding tank to stop 'things' compressing in the pipe between there and the valve on the hull.
Windless Wiring thought for you: I'm short on details about the distance from source and amperage draw of the windless but my guess is the up-sized wiring is needed to compensate for voltage drop over the distance between source (battery) and windless. That in mind, have you considered a short run of the minimum sized wiring to get you to the interior of the boat and then transition to the larger sized wiring to compensate for drop?. As long as your fusing (breaker) is sized for the over-current protection of the smaller conductor size, you'll have overcome all of your wiring challenges (voltage drop and conductor protection, physical size issues). Good luck and safe travels to the USA.
For venting the black water tank just stick a charcoal filter on top of the tank so you don’t have to drill any holes in the hull or deck, also I cant remember if you have a sewage pump out on the deck
When using contact adhesive it usually helps if you sand both surfaces before applying the glue. I build Ribs and not sanding is definitely the most common reason for contact adhesive not working properly.
Foam tapes are available with adhesive tape ready on them . The tapes with VHB adhesives are bullet proof and would serve you way better than contact glue which will fail in the not so distant future .
As a former US Navy plumber. I can tell you, you want a simple plumbing system. Very best of luck and thank you for sharing.
As a former merchant mechanic. With electronics and seawater on board, you get never bored . 😴😜
@@jochemspillebeen3551 hell yeah.
Absolutely. A simple Bluetooth toilet is definitely the way to go :)
Simple is out the window when he's talking of diagnostics for the blue tooth toilet.
Mads: * takes a poop and wants to flush *
Toilet: "Unable to flush due to firmware update - 83% remaining."
Then "Update failed due to firmware corruption, please restore from last backup"
It does sadly make sense, to adjust flushing and log motor hours by bt is going to be way cheaper than doing it in hardware. Still, the mere thought of calling a help desk because the toilet won't flush...He's a braver man than I. (G)
When ava gets there you can be assured that things will get done in a timely manner, there will be some wip cracking for sure 😅
He wishes LOL
Stewie would never had said "coool hhhhwip" if that spelling was correct.
That's it the next time we seee yoou it will be as a team. Your smile seemed a bit bigger than usual and for a good reason. Looking forward to your next video.
Can't wait until next week. A long time coming.
Wow, after 5 yrs I think your channel is about to be altogether different
Keep up the good work!
I am SO excited for Mads & Ava to finally be working and living on Athena TOGETHER!!! It's been a long journey from when Athena sailed over from Scotland. Sooooo much fiberglass work. To see the improvements made to Athena has been very interesting and educational. Thanks to Sail Life, I actually understand what Parlay Revival are doing right now to their boat. Both Sail Life and Parlay seem to have to repair and improve deficiencies from the manufacturer. They could talk shop all night I'm sure.
Started watching about mid 2018, or early 2019? Give or take. Really enjoying all the content you've produced. Your passion is like that of a car or truck guy, and I admire your drive and all stuff that keeps you on track. I'm Always having hard time waiting for next week to show up.
So I returned to when you purchased Athena and marathon all videos to date. What a assume trip it's been. I'm glad you have a first mate now. Journey on!! Keep producing videos I'll keep watching. 👍👍
So, a Y valve introduces unwanted complexity to the plumbing solution for your BLUETOOTH ENABLED TOILET?
These tech guys!?!
Peasant!! Too funny. Maybe the software update will fix way it flushes.
Things I never thought I would hear on this channel: "diagnostics for the toilet...we can change the timing of the different phases". Do not forget to bring a back-up: very large plastic funnel and a good length of polypropylene line.
IKR haha
Would want to be miles (or kilometers) away when the electronics fail and Ava has to hold it. Give me the old analog system for reliability, please. Wifey will be happier with less chance of failure.
Go time!
It took us weeks to clear out our condo and get it up for sale when we moved onto our boat before we cut the lines. You are way ahead having ditched the dirt house years ago. I hope Ava likes Athena and everything goes well with her joining the crew.
I think going without a y-valve will be a good thing. Here in the USA they are really finicky about the Y-valve and having it locked off in some areas. In others, such as the Great Lakes, just having it is against the rules. It would have to be disconnected just to enter those areas. The Great Lakes is an awesome place to cruise, you will want to check it out when you come here.
For the windlass wires, can’t you turn the cable connections, on the motor, 180°, so the cables go forward, over the motor, and not back behind the motor?
I find it curious that you are planning on draining the holding tank by gravity. I’m thinking that the contents which will be much chunkier than water, might not drain so well. Also, while offshore, there’s no need to use the holding tank, but you will need the vented loop. Great video Mads!
Have a great weekend off, I bet your both looking forward to seeing each other as its been so long.
Good episode Mads. I am not sure where in Ireland you are planning to spend some of the winter. If at any stage you will want to work on the boat yourself while it is on the hard it is worth knowing that not every marina/yard allows this. Thankfully in Malahide (North Dublin) marina they do allow owners to work on their boats while on the hard. I believe that the owners can also remain living aboard while they do so.
If there is anything I can do to help while you are here just let me know.
I swear this is the fastest 20 minutes ever.My Kona coffee ☕ didn't even get cold. Ooo will I'll just have to watch it again. Ooo and I would have gone with option A on the head. The less you have to use the holding tank the better. And you may want to put a mercerator on the tank. Because the solids tend to build up if you don't. Something I learned the hard way. It is Way easier to do that Now Before you start using it.
Thank you so much for the video and tell next Sunday Morning 🌄
Aloha and Mahalo from the Big Island 🏝of Hawaii 🏝
Bravo on the magnetic joke! Love it.
Tick tick tick... Dang clock⏰... Excited for you an be4 you 2 Kno it you will be sailing towards your destination... ✌🏻💗😊❣️
As soon as you are 15 miles off Inverness wee Sturgeon will send up a couple of her-biplanes and a Zeppelin to ward you off Mads hahaha!! Hope to see you and Ava in the Clyde big guy !!X
I wonder if that chain counter sensor could be mounted under the deck. It might be a lot safer there. Maybe? Great video Mads! Amazing work, really top notch.
Mad's your putting to much pressure on yourself. Your gonna work till you drop. I understand the weather in the North Sea a couple of weeks or more is not going to hurt. Plus you need some shake down time. Love your energy!!!!
A comment on the windless wiring...a thought would be to put a wire block bar with the heavier gauge cable in the cabin space, then just run an appropriate gauge wire from the block to the the windless.....no need to run all new cable to the power source..... John
Great progress! Is it worth epoxying a strip of wood on the wall just above the tech room hatch so that at least any water running down that wall diverts away from the seal?
I think you are on to something. Put a pitch on it to drain the water off to the side you prefer. If you need to dress it up turn it into a small shower self. Might be a good weekend project while in Scotland.
Is it possible to 180 the motor in the windlass, and mount the wires facing forwards. That would also angle the wires in the correct place to go into the sole.
I don't mean to add to your to-do list, but you're going to need a macerator to empty your holding tank. Toilet paper has a way of clogging any kind of piping. As a test, you might fill the tank with slurry of toilet paper, water, and, say, oatmeal. Then open the drain and see how long it takes for the tank to empty.
Also, you might consider installing a much larger holding tank. In the US, overboard discharge is prohibited, while at the same time pump-out stations can be few and far between or functionally inaccessible. (In some areas, discharge from Lectra-San units is permitted, but that, too, can be sketchy.
Best of luck!
Mads, you need the vented loop on the simple version too. It keeps the poop from siphoning back out of the poop tank (which is what I now call a holding tank every chance I get) and overflowing your head. Ick.
Best practice is to determine how much water your hose holds and make sure you flush at least that much through the system.. the hose will start to stink if you leave waste in it at all. Look at Peggy Hall’s extensive stuff on marine holding tank stuff.
Especially the drain hose below the tank. Best put an additional valve right at the tank bottom.
In my Catalina 310, I am in the process of totally replacing the plumbing. I added an electric flush toilet for my wife. It has a macerator pump built in as does yours. The toilet connects directly to the holding tank as in your "plan B". The low point of the holding tank exits to a "Tee".
One side of the "tee" goes to a second macerator pump then to the through hull valve. The other side goes to a pump-out tube. I did not see a pump-out tube in today's video.
I am happy to have two macerator pumps to better slice up the solid materials. The post-holding tank pump will assist in drawing out the settled out solids.
I too am trying to eliminate any of the "head odor" sources. It is important to empty the holding tank often AND flush it at least once before using it again.
Watch out heading for Scotland. The wicked witch of the North stopped a cruise ship from docking here the other week. I also have a hatred of contact glue. I think it only works on bike tyres and then you have to seriously rough up the 2 faces with sandpaper. Ambient heat and humidity are another factor in making it work. I know it is useless in the tropics.
How about going with B and use B for Bucket as a bypass if ever needed :-) After all the only thing that does not break on a boat is that what you don‘t have. Keep up the good work Mads
I built in a vent and discharge line on my main head during a refit 3 years ago. I sail coastal pretty often so I thought it would be an advantage. I think I have used it twice. I either forget to use it, or its just not necessary. Adding in a bypass and vent realistically is a 2 hour job once the system is in place. I would wait until you know you need it, rather than pre-empt a potentially problematic system you might not need. I would be more inclined to build in an inspection port into the holding tank, also make sure your shower head can reach the inspection port so you can make a really bad job at least a quick job.
Bluetooth enabled toilet? This is the one where Mads went completely mad : D
Kiss keep it simple stupid
@@anthonygillesse7242 yeah, he clearly hasn't learned his lesson from Battlestar Galactica
I like the direction Teal (with Onboard Lifestyle) went with. He put in standard, bare bones, manual pump flush heads. His thought process was simplicity, easy to maintain and repair, and easy access to parts worldwide.
Integration of the toilet Bluetooth with his internet leads to all sorts of fun functions.
There is only one use I can think of for the Bluetooth toilet. Flushing while friends are on it for a laugh.
Way to go stainless guy!
wow 11 days so close now, fantastic
Everything is coming along nicely. Time just seems to be flying by.
Show the rubber seals some rough sandpaper before applying the contact glue and it will stick.
I have a normal small SS thru hull as an air went for the holding tank.
I have been watching for years and must say this is by far the best video in this entire series.
Thanks for sharing Mads! Can't wait for this next chapter. 😃
Thank you so much :)
If you have a macerate before the holding tank, no problem with the single circuit option. If you do not, then have the option to by-pass. I’ve had both setups, and the former is the better.
Welcome back.
It's great that she is going to be there with you, another set of hands for one.
The seawater intake line to the head can also be a source of noxious odors when seawater remains inside for a significant period of time. The microscopic sea life dies inside the stagnant water and creates a pungent aroma.
Should have a macerator hooked up to the holding tank for those long voyages!
It looked like there was one built in to the pump. You could see it when he showed us the spare.
@@ianwalker4740 I saw the pump and was wondering about it. I have one but it’s after the tank before the the through hull ball valve
When I refitted my Ericson, I installed a macerator pump in between the head and tank. With a convenient switch within reach. It turned a manual head into an electric one, and ensure everything was properly liquified before making it to the tank. Make it easier to drain and rinse.
Enough poop talk.
Looking forward to the Mads & Ava show!!!
I can't believe Ava is going to be there on Friday...the boat is looking amazing Mads, I am certain she will be thrilled with all you have done. I can't wait until you are sailing together 😊👍
Godspeed and safe travels Ava 😊🙏
It still amazes me that he can all of that straight.
And, it’s the second dose that gives you the electromagnetic properties. 😉
Lofrans also uses a glue to keep the contacts inside the motor together , putting pressure on the terminals will break them. Luckily a good electric rebuild shop can fix this major design flaw. Ask me how I know....
I would use the Y valve, we have that set up and it is nice to be able to bypass the holding tank. We keep the seacock shut and only open it when needed to use the toilet. After all you have tossed the lack of complexity out the window with the head you put in..
I would go for option C in the plumbing: Put the diverter valve between the holding tank and the sea valve. This will flush the outlet of the holding tank from below every time you use it and will help to prevent clogging the outlet. Hallberg Rassy is doing this with two ball valves instead of a three way valve and it seems to work well.
Love that you went with the simpler plumbing on your Bluetooth enabled toilet. You wouldn't want it to be complicated : )
Seriously, why do you need to flush your toilet from the nav station? I can forsee something leaning on the button, holding tank overflowing...
Love your videos always having orders and buying gagets. Love all the controls and the beautiful work you have done. You are a very clever man. Extremely talented! Sending regards from Australia. Xxx
I am surprised you will have any time for a video next week .... :)
Thanks Mads so excited for you with Eva coming over really hope everything works a OK🤞 You both deserve it. Have loved all the diy work but I am looking forward to see you crusing and see how the boat and systems really perform when used in anger. Just know your sailing chanel won't be one of the generic ones😁 I am going down to kirkcudbright in two weeks time, my better half (wife) doesn't get it when i say this where Mads got Athena....? 😅 would be great if we could do a 🏴 Scottish Sail Life meet when you come back over I am sure they would be other Scottish followers happy to share a drink and chat. Obviously in a covid safe way. Good luck👍🏻
pooping like a peasant at 0.28. you are funny Mads, that did give me a giggle :)
Might need a deck fitting for pump out if you sail to the US, many areas are no discharge zones...maybe it is there but not in the hose diagram,..these are a vacuum pump system on the dock or pump out boat....
Holding tank: In USA and most part of Canada, in no-discharge zones (usually within three miles from shore), you must have a holding tank and you must "secure the device to prevent overboard discharge". That mean closing the seacock and remove the handle or adding a padlock. If you get a visit from authorities onboard, the fine is around 2000USD if not compliant... I suggest you install a "pump out" option to your plumbing diagram.
Ref.: www.epa.gov/vessels-marinas-and-ports/vessel-sewage-frequently-asked-questions
I am assuming you will have to get the boat surveyed/inspected to insure it. It’ll be very interesting to learn what an inspection dude is going to say about Athena
I imagine Mads will be able to provide more paperwork then any boat surveyor has seen anywhere at anytime.
I was just wondering if you could make some custom lugs for your windless so the wire doesn't have to bend around like they are and maybe use heat shrink to insulate them?
Definitely go for the diverter to bypass the holding tank. You do not want to be filling it up with water which is fine to go straight over the side in a marina environment.
Next week starts another new chapter in the history of Sail Life. Looking forward to having Ava on the weekly videos!
Hey! Could you perhaps do an update video in regards to the material you’ve been using throughout your project? Plywood/Fiberglass etc
looking good Mads, Ava will be there soon, yay, get ready to relinquish captaincy and become 1st mate!!
Looking forward to meeting Eva!