Here I am again back on YT looking for some information and you have exactly what I needed. Countless videos have been used over the years. I simply refused to pay 350$ per side in parts + labor, when I know it can be done in the driveway :)
Thank you so much for this video. I used it to assist in replacing my upper control arms and it made the job that much easier. Many many thanks. I'm not sure if other Titan owners will find this, but I found that the right side bolt on the driver side control arm was an absolute PITA to remove. Having the brake lines there made it even more difficult. Impact and extensions and universal joints couldn't get there and those bolts are torqued down heavy. I ended up linking together open ended wrenchs to get enough leverage and torque to bust it (the other bolts were easy). And I had even pre-soaked all the bolts in penetrating fluid the night before. I'm using your other videos to soon address very similar Titan problems (valve cover replacement, door handles, power steering, rear dif vent). Your videos are the best thing on UA-cam for the 04-15 Titans!
I know Im asking the wrong place but does any of you know a trick to log back into an Instagram account? I stupidly lost my password. I would love any tricks you can offer me.
@Leonardo Damian Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im in the hacking process atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
Thx my new Control arms arrived today and I was gonna pay 100 bucks per side but why right! I mean even the caliper and rotor stays on. Seems very straight forward! I’ll do both tomorrow, really appreciate all your videos, suspension is not that difficult to do!
@@4orty9ine you said it brother ! I had to use a 18" break over bar with a 3 foot cheater pipe, I called him out on this, I will cut him slack as he mentioned that he was replacing and aftermarket , could be the guy before him did a piss poor job.
Pretty good video. How did you get around the brake lines and steering shaft on the drivers side rear bolt? It don't look like much room to maneuver tools in
Thank you! Yes the drivers side rear bolt is the hardest one to get at. On my truck, the brake lines needed to be moved just slightly to clear the bolt. You can bend the lines just touch so the bolt will clear.
Truck novice here. Do I need to replace these if the upper ball joint bushing has a tear , it also looks depressed of grease, like it doesn’t have any in it. There is old black grease around the bushing . It’s the factory sealed upper arm , 2006 with 106,000 miles. Thanks
Not a bad video. As amateur i need to see all the small details that you cut out. Nit picky but those small details make me feel like I won't be surprised doing the job.
thanks bud, ya surprises are never a good thing when working on your own vehicle. if you have any questions or if any issues arise feel free to ask! im normally pretty good about answering quickly. cheers!
All you are missing in this video is the grunting..cussing..slip wrenching, knuckle busting part..separating the spindle from control arm is the hardest part. Unless you have the fancy tools...no two come apart with the same effort..its usually pry,bang,cuss,spray,airhammer.hit somemore....then finally it comes loose..
No this is a stock replacement. General rule of thumb is if you’re going with a 3 inch lift or higher you should go with an aftermarket upper control arm to it advoid coil bucket contact. PRG products make some good extended sway bar links. You won’t need those and less you are lifting the truck over 3 inches.
My mada after change the upper control arms , front shocks absorbers , sways bars the front is like 2 inchs too high my cuestión is , how can adjust something to lower to original level if somebody know
Bought new bushings and ball joints for mine. Ended up sending them back and buying the complete arms. These bushings are not easy to to press out do to the design!
hello good day I buy a pair for my 2004 titan on ebay but the small piece does not come to inject the fat, it will be ready or I have to put them ??????
Thank you for that information and the quick reply. Very helpful as i was just about to order rough country upper comtrol arrms www.roughcountry.com/nissan-upper-control-arms-83401.html And i just subscribed to your channel.
Aaron, I need to replace lower ball joints and have 140k on my titan. Have already replaced struts but wanted to know what other front suspension parts I should replace since the cost of the parts isn't that significant.
i would look at your sway bar end links and bar bushings while there. you will need to remove one end of your sway bar link that attaches to your lower control arm anyway. if the otter tie rod is leaking grease out of its boot then i would do that too. make sure to get an alignment after!
Hey man I got a 07 armada that squats every time I go over bump I’m thinking about just replacing the control arm do you think that will help with the problem?
Yes I had the same issue. Look under the armada at the Control arms. Both upper and lower. If you see the boot of the ball joint is broke and a lot of grease has escaped. It most likely needs replacement. If your still unsure. A lot of shops can do an alignment check and they will tell you what is loose.
Oh! Well that changes things. Check your sway bar to frame bushings. They might need some grease if they aren’t torn. Had the same exact issue on my Titan. You can see them by laying down in front of the armada and the are on the front frame crossmember. On for the left and one for the right. 2 bolts hold them in. And a metal strap secures them to the frame. Your sway bar goes through the middle of them
Necessary no, but if u lift 3” or more you will have coil bucket contact with the upper control arms. Then you will need aftermarket control arms so the won’t hit the coil bucket when going over bumps
im sorry im not to familiar with a 08 pathfinder, does the bolt hit the steering shaft? if you turn the seeting wheel, the bolt might have a little more space.
What i noticed is you didn't talk about the shroud surrounding the area near the upper control arm. The mud guard if you will. Whatever it is called. Mine has this "blocking" the access to the upper arm bolts/nuts. How does that shroud come off? Is it easy to remove without destroying the material? Your video is showing that you don't have any shroud. Of course it makes it easier to get to, and looks easier than the video shows compared to what mine looks like. Did you pre-remove this?
the shroud comes off very easily. you can acually bend the plastic out of the way to loosen the bolts, the truck that was shown in the video was about to have an exhaust manifold replaced so i removed the shroud before the video was shown. removal is simple and the only thing you can break are the plastic rivets that hold it in, they can become brittle after many years. but most oreilly, napa,carquest, ect... carry them in stock.
Thanks for the video, but the hardest part getting the bolt off the side with the brake lines is really what I’m after….and you don’t show it…the bolts are just magically off…oh well thanks for doing this
500-700 is what most shops will charge including an alignment after. If you go to O’Reillys or Napa and buy the part yourself will be spending around 200.00
This video is helpful but doesn't tell the entire story. It is NOT fast and easy. I will cut Aaron some slack as he mentioned he is replacing an aftermarket control arm, which means someone had already replaced the original. Number one ,the bolts were not torqued to factory specs of 125 ft, lbs. Unless you are an oversize gorilla you will not break these with a couple of combo wrenches and a claw hammer. In my case I replaced the original and it required a 1/2" break over bar with a 3 foot cheater. No room for an impact even with swivel sockets. Aaron mentions a pickle fork, you had better have one on hand for the ball joint , and something larger than a claw hammer. As far as " fast and easy" ? Maybe so, if someone has already replacement the original and did a piss poor job. Also he failed to mentioned that the fender well must be removed in order to access the bolts. Not a difficult job but it does add time. I noticed he had already removed these , or someone else did not replace them. His description of tools required is not accurate. For example, where is the torque wrench for replacing the bolts? He gives a torque spec but does not do include this step in his video. This is also time consuming. I did repair on my 2005 yesterday , but , It was not as easy or fast as this video illustrates. You had better have more tools in you box and more time on your hands. .
Here I am again back on YT looking for some information and you have exactly what I needed. Countless videos have been used over the years. I simply refused to pay 350$ per side in parts + labor, when I know it can be done in the driveway :)
Love your videos, I have a 2008 Titan and I have basically learned how to work on it from you. Thank you!
I appreciate the vids bud. I'm car savvy, but it always helps to see a rundown when doing unfamiliar fixes.
Thanks bud, hope they help
Exactly, dude!!
I do all my own stuff. I still watch videos for unfamiliar repairs, just in case there's anything I might miss.
Love your titan videos, i dont know much about how to work on my truck, and these vids are awesome
Wow thanks man! Let me know if you need any help. I appreciate the encouragement. Cheers!
I also have a 2008 Nissan Titan. Love the truck, but needs a lot of work. I'll continue to check out your videos for assistance. Thank You!
Your videos work for my Armada, thanks bro
Beautiful... about to tackle mine today, both sides... thanks for a short informative video
How did you manage to remove the driver's side? I can't remove anything with these brake lines in the way
Well done! Thank you for the detailed instructions.
Thank you so much for this video. I used it to assist in replacing my upper control arms and it made the job that much easier. Many many thanks. I'm not sure if other Titan owners will find this, but I found that the right side bolt on the driver side control arm was an absolute PITA to remove. Having the brake lines there made it even more difficult. Impact and extensions and universal joints couldn't get there and those bolts are torqued down heavy. I ended up linking together open ended wrenchs to get enough leverage and torque to bust it (the other bolts were easy). And I had even pre-soaked all the bolts in penetrating fluid the night before.
I'm using your other videos to soon address very similar Titan problems (valve cover replacement, door handles, power steering, rear dif vent). Your videos are the best thing on UA-cam for the 04-15 Titans!
I know Im asking the wrong place but does any of you know a trick to log back into an Instagram account?
I stupidly lost my password. I would love any tricks you can offer me.
@Jon Randall instablaster ;)
@Leonardo Damian Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im in the hacking process atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Leonardo Damian it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my account :D
@Jon Randall No problem xD
Very helpful. I was gonna fork over $600 for the job, now I’ll do it myself.
you sir a the best! thanks for all the titan love!
Great video, thanks for your time and effort.
thank you for the support!!
Thx my new Control arms arrived today and I was gonna pay 100 bucks per side but why right! I mean even the caliper and rotor stays on. Seems very straight forward! I’ll do both tomorrow, really appreciate all your videos, suspension is not that difficult to do!
Mark Chance hey how did it go when you did you by yourself?
great video, thank you
Good stuff bro verry easy to replace on my 2009 pathfinder
Thank you!!
I enjoy your video. it will help me to put on my control arm. q56 save me money thx
it help me a lot thanks for the video keep the good work thanks
Glad to hear! Cheers!
AINT NO WAAAAAY you got that bolt off with a ratchet wrench
Lmao. I was thinking the same.
Yeah exactly man I'm having trouble , and there's no clearance for a breaker bar on the right side
@@4orty9ine you said it brother ! I had to use a 18" break over bar with a 3 foot cheater pipe, I called him out on this, I will cut him slack as he mentioned that he was replacing and aftermarket , could be the guy before him did a piss poor job.
I just did this 5 minutes ago and it took at least 15 min to get every bolt out
Pretty good video. How did you get around the brake lines and steering shaft on the drivers side rear bolt? It don't look like much room to maneuver tools in
Thank you! Yes the drivers side rear bolt is the hardest one to get at. On my truck, the brake lines needed to be moved just slightly to clear the bolt. You can bend the lines just touch so the bolt will clear.
Thank you very much
Awesome, thanks
Thanks for the video! Do you need to get an alignment after replacing just the upper front driver side?
Yes. I would recommend an alignment after replacing any suspension component.
How exactly did you move the screw on the brake line? I can't seem to move them far enough
What brand and where did you buy these UCAS with the zero fitting ?
Truck novice here. Do I need to replace these if the upper ball joint bushing has a tear , it also looks depressed of grease, like it doesn’t have any in it. There is old black grease around the bushing . It’s the factory sealed upper arm , 2006 with 106,000 miles. Thanks
What kind of time rod ends did you put on your truck
Did you have to put tension before you tighten the upper control arms bolts
How do you know when these need to be replaced? Mine has some play left to right. I'm not sure if this is normal.
Hell yea, easier than I thought..
Not a bad video. As amateur i need to see all the small details that you cut out. Nit picky but those small details make me feel like I won't be surprised doing the job.
thanks bud, ya surprises are never a good thing when working on your own vehicle. if you have any questions or if any issues arise feel free to ask! im normally pretty good about answering quickly. cheers!
All you are missing in this video is the grunting..cussing..slip wrenching, knuckle busting part..separating the spindle from control arm is the hardest part. Unless you have the fancy tools...no two come apart with the same effort..its usually pry,bang,cuss,spray,airhammer.hit somemore....then finally it comes loose..
Good video
Thanks!
Is this the same for a frontier? Looks exactly the same so I'm going to assume so
Did you use a pipe over your wrench as a breaker bar?
Hi Thanks for the video, were you able to get a torque wrench on the nuts for the control arm to get it to 125ft/lbs?
Yes but it’s tight. to make it easier I took off the inner wheel well to make it easier to see in the video. Thank you!
Aaron Hines my thoughts as well! Inner wheel wells will come off first!
The torque is 107 ftlb and 58 ftlb on the spindle
Do you lubricate the bushings? If so what do you use? 4:35
Is this a extended uca? If so...did you replace the sway bar links?..I'm getting mixed input on if its required or just recommended
No this is a stock replacement. General rule of thumb is if you’re going with a 3 inch lift or higher you should go with an aftermarket upper control arm to it advoid coil bucket contact. PRG products make some good extended sway bar links. You won’t need those and less you are lifting the truck over 3 inches.
What front shocks are on this Titan?
What size pickle fork do I need to use to separate the ball joint? You do not say in your video.
My mada after change the upper control arms , front shocks absorbers , sways bars the front is like 2 inchs too high my cuestión is , how can adjust something to lower to original level if somebody know
Bought new bushings and ball joints for mine. Ended up sending them back and buying the complete arms. These bushings are not easy to to press out do to the design!
What kind of rims or those
According to my 2005 Titan fsm upper bolts should be torqued to 107ft lbs and castle nut is 58ft lbs
Would have been helpful to seed the bolts removed. The steering column and brake lines are limiting in using any kind of leverage.
hello good day I buy a pair for my 2004 titan on ebay but the small piece does not come to inject the fat, it will be ready or I have to put them ??????
no those are sealed ball joints that came with the control arm, they are good to go and never need grease.
Will the upper control arm that you showed on your video if i installed a 2 inch leveling kit on top of strut.
Yes it will work, if you go 3” or more you will need an aftermarket control arm
Thank you for that information and the quick reply. Very helpful as i was just about to order rough country upper comtrol arrms www.roughcountry.com/nissan-upper-control-arms-83401.html
And i just subscribed to your channel.
Aaron, I need to replace lower ball joints and have 140k on my titan. Have already replaced struts but wanted to know what other front suspension parts I should replace since the cost of the parts isn't that significant.
i would look at your sway bar end links and bar bushings while there. you will need to remove one end of your sway bar link that attaches to your lower control arm anyway. if the otter tie rod is leaking grease out of its boot then i would do that too. make sure to get an alignment after!
@@AaronHinesAuto Thanks Aaron for the reply and for the videos. I have referred to several of them to keep my Titan on the road
@@jacklick im happy to hear that! if you have any suggestions for future videos let me know! thanks!
Hey man I got a 07 armada that squats every time I go over bump I’m thinking about just replacing the control arm do you think that will help with the problem?
Yes I had the same issue. Look under the armada at the Control arms. Both upper and lower. If you see the boot of the ball joint is broke and a lot of grease has escaped. It most likely needs replacement. If your still unsure. A lot of shops can do an alignment check and they will tell you what is loose.
Aaron Hines sorry not squat I meant to say SQUEAK
Oh! Well that changes things. Check your sway bar to frame bushings. They might need some grease if they aren’t torn. Had the same exact issue on my Titan. You can see them by laying down in front of the armada and the are on the front frame crossmember. On for the left and one for the right. 2 bolts hold them in. And a metal strap secures them to the frame. Your sway bar goes through the middle of them
is it necessary to replace the upper arm (depending the high on the spacer) when you instal a lift spacer on the strut? thanks.
Necessary no, but if u lift 3” or more you will have coil bucket contact with the upper control arms. Then you will need aftermarket control arms so the won’t hit the coil bucket when going over bumps
Aaron Hines I just want to level my truck...Ill try it then,thanks for your help!
How did you remove back bolt with that steering thing in the way mines won’t come out all of the way 08 pathfinder.
im sorry im not to familiar with a 08 pathfinder, does the bolt hit the steering shaft? if you turn the seeting wheel, the bolt might have a little more space.
The threads on the bolt may be catching in the inside of the hole..sometimes wiggling the wheels let's the uca move a lil and allow u to remove bolt
❤❤❤❤
What i noticed is you didn't talk about the shroud surrounding the area near the upper control arm. The mud guard if you will. Whatever it is called. Mine has this "blocking" the access to the upper arm bolts/nuts. How does that shroud come off? Is it easy to remove without destroying the material? Your video is showing that you don't have any shroud. Of course it makes it easier to get to, and looks easier than the video shows compared to what mine looks like. Did you pre-remove this?
the shroud comes off very easily. you can acually bend the plastic out of the way to loosen the bolts, the truck that was shown in the video was about to have an exhaust manifold replaced so i removed the shroud before the video was shown. removal is simple and the only thing you can break are the plastic rivets that hold it in, they can become brittle after many years. but most oreilly, napa,carquest, ect... carry them in stock.
Thanks. We figured it out, before your reply. That's what we ended up doing. Much easier with two people.
Thanks for the video, but the hardest part getting the bolt off the side with the brake lines is really what I’m after….and you don’t show it…the bolts are just magically off…oh well thanks for doing this
you save me 650 the shop want charge me , which brand aftermarket u can recommend me ?
Try Autozone dawg. I bought upper control arm for 08 armada.
I never do alignments after just ball joints.
Why didn't you get kryptonite or cognito
What is a good price to charge to replace both
500-700 is what most shops will charge including an alignment after. If you go to O’Reillys or Napa and buy the part yourself will be spending around 200.00
79.99 on eBay
If you side jobbing it..75 to 100 bux hr...
17mm, 19/ 3/4, and a what??
Nissan Armada 2011 is same
This driver side is being trash and the nut and bolt won’t break loose on the right side of the control arm
This video is helpful but doesn't tell the entire story. It is NOT fast and easy. I will cut Aaron some slack as he mentioned he is replacing an aftermarket control arm, which means someone had already replaced the original.
Number one ,the bolts were not torqued to factory specs of 125 ft, lbs. Unless you are an oversize gorilla you will not break these with a couple of combo wrenches and a claw hammer.
In my case I replaced the original and it required a 1/2" break over bar with a 3 foot cheater.
No room for an impact even with swivel sockets. Aaron mentions a pickle fork, you had better have one on hand for the ball joint , and something larger than a claw hammer.
As far as " fast and easy" ? Maybe so, if someone has already replacement the original and did a piss poor job. Also he failed to mentioned that the fender well must be removed in order to access the bolts.
Not a difficult job but it does add time. I noticed he had already removed these , or someone else did not replace them. His description of tools required is not accurate. For example, where is the torque wrench for replacing the bolts? He gives a torque spec but does not do include this step in his video. This is also time consuming.
I did repair on my 2005 yesterday , but , It was not as easy or fast as this video illustrates. You had better have more tools in you box and more time on your hands.
.