Thank you so much, was working on a Hyster Forklift with a 4.3L Vortec that would not start, starter wasn't fully engaging and it had no shims. You sir are amazing, thank you for sharing this!
I’ve been looking for some pointers for shimming starters on here for about 2 hours - you’re the only guy who seemed to know more than “hey, here’s WHY you shim, good luck!” I’ve gotta shim an old buddy’s starter on a ‘49 Chevy 3500, and boy howdy I’m glad I found this video.
The most informational and detail video I’ve see on starter installation an shimming I’ve replaced my starter on my Chevy van I know 8 times in the last two years. With this new flex plate an ne2 warranty start hopefully I won’t have to mess with the starter again for years
Im gonna have some fun with a 73 chevy pickup that i have been fixing hackery on for days now and finally im in the home stretch. Just have to get a new starter in to replace the one that has no shims and just runs into the flywheel for 20 crank attempts then finally starts. Lovely when you have to start from absolute scratch with no reference point. Thanks for the video though man.
Un pregunta cuando enciendo suena mucho y lo puse nuevo por que será lo compre nuevo económico será por eso lo que vi cuando me llego que estaba roto el conector donde va el positivo del encendido en el motor de aranque que seria no se que pasa o no es original no entiendo
I have a 66 Chevelle, and I did not want headers, I believe when the pipes are that close to the starter that helps also shorten the life of a starter specially when you have no heat shield on the starter , with that said I do now feel more informed about shims on the starter,
He doesn’t drive this much, just wants it to start when he does get it out. We might be putting a flywheel in it at some point due to the damage that was caused by the old starter.
I have had trouble on my 350 small block It is a '71 Camaro engine in a '68 Nova. The starter gear is not reaching the flywheel properly. I will try this. I think that will work. Thanks for the video.
We have a 1966 Chevy Impala 2 Door Hardtop that won't start. It won't even crank. There's no power to the ignition. The VOLTAGE REGULATOR has been changed out as well as the HORN RELAY because prior to losing power on it, both items were very HOT! Then everything just SHUT DOWN. If anyone has experienced this issue and could help, I would really really appreciate it!
Hi Mate i been having a nightmare trying to set my starter SBC with headers i needed to shim the outside bolt to get closed to the flywheel i put 1/16 shim but i just bend the shim a 90 degree about 1 inch on the open side of the shim and put to the outside between the block and the starter on the outer bolt to hard to drop starter looks good hope will stay there great video easy to follow thanks
I did this to one of my starters and not long after doing so the whole head of the starter blew right off so i had to get a new one. Does shimming one side make the starter vulnerable to breaking?
Not if it’s done correctly, I’ve never had an issue with one after I did it unless there was another problem like timing making the engine kick back while cranking
Hey Bulldog. I have a 1954 Dodge Fargo 1/2 ton with a SBC engine in it. I am new to playing with the classic trucks, so I am learning every time I do something. Sometimes when I try to start my truck I hear a loud bang noise. and the started stops turning. After seeing this video, I think the Bendix isn't close enough to the flex plate. Do you think the same thing, or do I have a different problem? Thanks for sharing.
If it was too far away it shouldn’t make a bang and quit cranking, it would make a screeching sound and the starter would continue to spin but not crank the engine. If everything stops and goes quiet then I would suspect a timing issue like the weights stuck in the distributor, that would cause what we refer to as a “lope” where the engine almost stops turning or sometimes stops completely.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 Well, from one Dog To another, thank you for your advice. I will check it out. I did shim the starter the way that you showed and guys jumped on me and said that I should be gapping the teeth with a wire gage, but they didn't tell me or show me what they are talking about.👍👍🍁
Several things I would do with that install considering the headers are clearly heat soaking that starter. First I would put a Ford solenoid on the firewall. Second I put would put an aluminum heat shield or wrap on the starter. Third I would insist to the owner he wraps his headers with thermal wrap if he expects his starter to last.
I remember you from your old video about shims i could of swear you said putting cut off shims only on the outside bolt tilts it in a freckle now you saying put a cutoff shim on the inside bolt tilt it in if you have too much gap in confused
It’s correct, what most places carry is a small field starter used on the small block which WILL bolt up and work…for a while, then you’re replacing it again.
There's a difference is chevy blocks a 70 block from a truck takes a different starter than say a 75 block, I think this is were the problem lies so a 70-75 block needs 3627 starter @bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387
We have a 1966 Chevy Impala 2 Door Hardtop that won't start. It won't even crank. There's no power to the ignition. The VOLTAGE REGULATOR has been changed out as well as the HORN RELAY because prior to losing power on it, both items were very HOT! Then everything just SHUT DOWN. If anyone has experienced this issue and could help,
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 We installed the turn signal switch, and a week later, the car would not start or even crank, but the battery did not have enough power to start the vehicle after charging the battery. The horn went off and the horn relay and the voltage regulator got very hot, and everything shut down, lost power.
Always use the same shim pack on both bolts or you can crack the housing. Pinion gear engagement depth isn't checked by listening to it! Touch the starter cable to solenoid terminal and pinion will engage but starter wont spin. Use a round wire rod with 90° end to check clearance. This is how it's actually done. .030" is usually perfect. I'm gonna guess you might not be a mechanic?
I’ve been doing this for over thirty years…and while shimming one side is a risk that’s the most cost effective way to close the gap. I just did one today the same way. Today’s parts do not fit, nearly every starter has to wide of a gap with no shims when it comes to the older blocks.
Excellent video. The best explanation that I’ve seen regarding GM starter installation….👍
Thank you, I have watched a few videos about shimming, this is the one that explains how it is done.
Best one I have seen about this task....PERFECT!!!!
Great video, explains things very well with good visual. Best video I’ve seen on this and I’ve watched a lot. Thank you
Great video bud pretty straight forward to the point. You boosted my confidence on changing my starter and shimming it the correct way 👍
Thank you so much, was working on a Hyster Forklift with a 4.3L Vortec that would not start, starter wasn't fully engaging and it had no shims. You sir are amazing, thank you for sharing this!
This is the best shim video i could find thank you sir. Now I understand how to do it.
I’ve been looking for some pointers for shimming starters on here for about 2 hours - you’re the only guy who seemed to know more than “hey, here’s WHY you shim, good luck!”
I’ve gotta shim an old buddy’s starter on a ‘49 Chevy 3500, and boy howdy I’m glad I found this video.
The most informational and detail video I’ve see on starter installation an shimming I’ve replaced my starter on my Chevy van I know 8 times in the last two years. With this new flex plate an ne2 warranty start hopefully I won’t have to mess with the starter again for years
Thank you for the compliment
Excellent video !! Easy to follow very well explained step by step. Thank you for sharing such a precise how to video.
This video is so much more informative than the others on here.
Good explanation of splitting shims to tilt starter.
Hope I haven't wrecked my new flex plate. Thx
great vid, saved my butt, its in my c10 1974, built 350 isky cam
Thanks mate. Just what I was looking for. Our starter was sticking in the teeth of the flex plate. Was too tight.
Great. Video… simple and easy to understand explanation
Fifinaly a person that helped me with my starter
Im gonna have some fun with a 73 chevy pickup that i have been fixing hackery on for days now and finally im in the home stretch. Just have to get a new starter in to replace the one that has no shims and just runs into the flywheel for 20 crank attempts then finally starts. Lovely when you have to start from absolute scratch with no reference point. Thanks for the video though man.
Un pregunta cuando enciendo suena mucho y lo puse nuevo por que será lo compre nuevo económico será por eso lo que vi cuando me llego que estaba roto el conector donde va el positivo del encendido en el motor de aranque que seria no se que pasa o no es original no entiendo
Great video you show which side to shim to bring it out or bring it in for proper adjustment.Thanks so very much.
Thanks a lot for this - just fixed my issue with shimming!!
I have a 66 Chevelle, and I did not want headers, I believe when the pipes are that close to the starter that helps also shorten the life of a starter specially when you have no heat shield on the starter , with that said I do now feel more informed about shims on the starter,
He doesn’t drive this much, just wants it to start when he does get it out. We might be putting a flywheel in it at some point due to the damage that was caused by the old starter.
I have had trouble on my 350 small block It is a '71 Camaro engine in a '68 Nova. The starter gear is not reaching the flywheel properly. I will try this. I think that will work. Thanks for the video.
I was a mechanic 38 years and replaced grundles of GM starters and hardly any ford's....Hmmmm anyway I'd use a long 3mm allen wrench worked well.
We have a 1966 Chevy Impala 2 Door Hardtop that won't start. It won't even crank.
There's no power to the ignition. The VOLTAGE REGULATOR has been changed out as well as the HORN RELAY because prior to losing power on it, both items were very HOT! Then everything just SHUT DOWN.
If anyone has experienced this issue and could help, I would really really appreciate it!
Hi Mate i been having a nightmare trying to set my starter SBC with headers i needed to shim the outside bolt to get closed to the flywheel i put 1/16 shim but i just bend the shim a 90 degree about 1 inch on the open side of the shim and put to the outside between the block and the starter on the outer bolt to hard to drop starter looks good hope will stay there great video easy to follow thanks
Thank you for the video It’s really helpful and informative
So I have a 91 Chevy Silverado with a big block and the starter is too close to the flywheel. Does that mean I put a complete shim from side to side?
Yes, complete shim to move the starter straight down
My 1998 GMC V6 eats starters noisy ? I put shims was worse. Getting gear reduction starter will try shim on one side move closer.
I did this to one of my starters and not long after doing so the whole head of the starter blew right off so i had to get a new one. Does shimming one side make the starter vulnerable to breaking?
Not if it’s done correctly, I’ve never had an issue with one after I did it unless there was another problem like timing making the engine kick back while cranking
Love it, explain my problems
Hey Bulldog. I have a 1954 Dodge Fargo 1/2 ton with a SBC engine in it. I am new to playing with the classic trucks, so I am learning every time I do something. Sometimes when I try to start my truck I hear a loud bang noise. and the started stops turning. After seeing this video, I think the Bendix isn't close enough to the flex plate. Do you think the same thing, or do I have a different problem? Thanks for sharing.
If it was too far away it shouldn’t make a bang and quit cranking, it would make a screeching sound and the starter would continue to spin but not crank the engine. If everything stops and goes quiet then I would suspect a timing issue like the weights stuck in the distributor, that would cause what we refer to as a “lope” where the engine almost stops turning or sometimes stops completely.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 Well, from one Dog To another, thank you for your advice. I will check it out.
I did shim the starter the way that you showed and guys jumped on me and said that I should be gapping the teeth with a wire gage, but they didn't tell me or show me what they are talking about.👍👍🍁
Best shimming video on You Tube. Thanks.
Thank you great explanation 🙏☮️🇺🇸
Great video it helped me, but the Gap I have is a 1/4 not and 1/8😢 can I realistically shim that far?
If you’ve got that much of a gap then I would guess you either have the wrong starter or flywheel.
i have a buick 403, do these same principles apply?
Yes, might double check the tooth depth but I haven’t seen an older GM different.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 it seems similar but the starter is on the driver side. It gets stuck engaged im thinking it’s too tight.
Thanks man! Wish I watched this before my flexplate got tosted lol.
Thanks for this. Great video.
Perfect video,good information 👍
Excellent video, well explained.
Several things I would do with that install considering the headers are clearly heat soaking that starter. First I would put a Ford solenoid on the firewall. Second I put would put an aluminum heat shield or wrap on the starter. Third I would insist to the owner he wraps his headers with thermal wrap if he expects his starter to last.
I remember you from your old video about shims i could of swear you said putting cut off shims only on the outside bolt tilts it in a freckle now you saying put a cutoff shim on the inside bolt tilt it in if you have too much gap in confused
I said you can shim the inside if it’s exceptionally tight, not something I have ever had to do though
Can you just use a thick washer instead of a shim ????)
I would worry about keeping the mounting surface level but theoretically yes, it’s just more difficult to get it into place.
Thanks from Venezuela
so the 3510 is wrong, or correct?
It’s correct, what most places carry is a small field starter used on the small block which WILL bolt up and work…for a while, then you’re replacing it again.
There's a difference is chevy blocks a 70 block from a truck takes a different starter than say a 75 block, I think this is were the problem lies so a 70-75 block needs 3627 starter @bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387
Will too far away like that give a quick squeak after crank and running. Has new flywheel and starter installed same day.
Yes, I think so. Look for glitter stuck to the bendix gear, it might be from jumping teeth.
Great video! Thank you!
Excelent video for how too. Well said
It looks like a gravy job with biscuit wheels to me 😂
Best explanation,👍
great teaching
Thank you
bro you saved my food ttruck business, this starter manufacturing shit is pissing me off.. someone needs a lawsuit
We have a 1966 Chevy Impala 2 Door Hardtop that won't start. It won't even crank.
There's no power to the ignition. The VOLTAGE REGULATOR has been changed out as well as the HORN RELAY because prior to losing power on it, both items were very HOT! Then everything just SHUT DOWN.
If anyone has experienced this issue and could help,
@@denisebarragan9993 what happened prior to the no-start? Anything get changed or messed with?
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387
We installed the turn signal switch, and a week later, the car would not start or even crank, but the battery did not have enough power to start the vehicle after charging the battery. The horn went off and the horn relay and the voltage regulator got very hot, and everything shut down, lost power.
@@denisebarragan9993 I think something shortened out and it probably burned a fuse link
Thnx alot
Just what i wanted to know...thanks
Thank you!!
thanks bud!
Always use the same shim pack on both bolts or you can crack the housing. Pinion gear engagement depth isn't checked by listening to it! Touch the starter cable to solenoid terminal and pinion will engage but starter wont spin. Use a round wire rod with 90° end to check clearance. This is how it's actually done. .030" is usually perfect. I'm gonna guess you might not be a mechanic?
I’ve been doing this for over thirty years…and while shimming one side is a risk that’s the most cost effective way to close the gap. I just did one today the same way. Today’s parts do not fit, nearly every starter has to wide of a gap with no shims when it comes to the older blocks.
Good video. But the offset shims are available. Otherwise u about nailed it
It actually came with straight shims, they used to come with offsets and I have a pile of them in my box but it was too far away anyways.
Man,it sucks putting a starter in with long ube headers on. No freaking room for your hand to put the wires on.
Nice
Wow i never knew chevy named that car "uhchevelle" WTF
Lmao the shims do the same job. SHIM THE STARTER does no effect if they are angled or straight or upside-down.
I hate headers