They played mixie-matchie with 1 piece rear main seal blocks but with flat tappet cams (and standard rockers, not self-aligning type) back in the day. Lot of truck engines and the Goodwrench engines of the day were set up that way. There were even blocks cast for roller cam gear but never machined for that hardware. They just dropped flat tappet lifters into the (much deeper) roller lifter bores.
Ive always ended up with a bunch of 4 bolts for whatever reason. The only 2 Bolt out of 6 small Block 350s I own is the Budget Build. But yes the 2 vs 4 bolt will be argued till the end of time. I personally don’t care, long as it runs and makes cool noises it’s alright by me.
Id run either without worrying about it, but I've also blown up both versions so i disagree with people who try to convince me that you can't hurt a 4 bolt main, and i think i prefer the one piece rear main seal motors 2 or 4 bolt main they are balanced better but as i said I'd run any of them, although i won't power any 3/4 ton 2 or 4x4 with any 305's because I've destroyed 3 really good runners trying to pull around 3/4 ton trucks because i needed a motor and those were the deals available, and pretty much destroyed the bottom end on 3 h.o 305's with 601 and 416 casting heads i felt bad about that
@@BoneyardRevivals Hello, your videos are excellent. I greet you from VENEZUELA! How could you help me to buy some spare parts for a 1979 Malibu? I'm Armando. Where could I send you a message to show you the photos of my Malibu so I can ask you for help to buy some spare parts to get it working. Regards, Argenis Enrique.
check the transmission oil cooler in the radiator, rare but not impossible to leak ATF into the coolant. an intake leaking coolant usually puts the antifreeze IN the oil and less oil in the antifreeze.
That is an interesting thought. Thanks for the tip. I saw the issue from the radiator as we added water in a previous video and it would continuously push water out of the radiator. To me that says that combustion is making its way into the cooling system hence the blown head gasket. But maybe there were multiple issues like the oil cooler leaking into the radiator. Either way all the issues will be resolved when the engine goes into another vehicle. Thanks for commenting!
Not sure if you let the air out of the tires or not but that helps to lower the vehicle. Gives a couple inches of clearance which can make the difference. Great video ✊🏽
993 heads are great flowing heads. Both the original 993 heads and the Hecho en Mexico heads are good flowing smog heads. Goodwrench and Targetmaster used the mexican versions. This is normal to find on a crate engine
@@dadatschool that’s true, I misspoke there but doesn’t it also depend on the density of the oil as well? Just because I had another engine that mixed coolant and oil and when I drained the pan the milk shake came first then the coolant which I why I said what I said here.
@@BoneyardRevivals No, density/viscosity won't make any difference, however, if an engine is run such that the oil pump picks up water and oil, it will combine them to turn them to milkshake color. My reply had to do with an engine that has sat for a time where the oil and water separate out or if there is not enough water for the pump to pick it up off the bottom of the pan. 👍
On the two bolt vs four bolt mains, I was told by the best mechanic I ever knew that the only real need for a 4-bolt setup is in a blown motor that is expected to exceed 400 HP and turn very high revs. I'm a belt-and -suspenders type so I'd go with the 4-bolt if possible just for peace of mind. Btw, too much verbiage in your vids. Don't talk about it, be about it
@@RalphTempleton-vr6xs I understand what you mean by don’t talk about it be about but I promise you I am definitely about it. The reason I talk to much is to try to explain to less experienced people so they have a better understanding. I’d rather be yelled at for “talking too much” rather than leaving the less experienced guys without enough context. But I will try to pay more attention, there is always room for improvement. Thanks for your input.
Also, since you brought it up, what areas in this video do you think I could improve? If it’s not too much to ask give me some time stamps from the video so I know what to look at.
You gotta clean the heck out of all those coolant passages. It looks to me like somebody at some point mixed old school green and orange coolant together. I had a 98 I LOVED. Had a shop service the truck and even though I caught him before he put too much green coolant in, that truck had issues from that moment on. I flushed it over and over but I had to put a water pump on it every 10 to 15 thousand miles. It filled the system with a silty floury sludge. I got to where i could put a water pump and thermostat on in about an hour. Might not be your issue but that motor is from the "dexcool" era. Could be why the head gasket blew.
@@natelofties8533 When we pressure washed the block I pulled the drain plugs and sprayed through as many of the cooling passages as possible. And I understand to well about the dexcool era. I got a 98 Buick Regal and had a bunch of issues with that. What a nightmare. Definitely a face palm moment for GM.
@@randomguy1807 This truck was an actually a New York truck. As far as going rate I really don’t know, I’ve never been one to wheel and deal. I know how much stuff is worth on average and I hate low balling people.
ya mine came from factory already machine to take a roller set up , im not willing to spend a extra 2 grand to do what a great flat tappet can do also , the lifter pockets are a 1/4 inch deeper but doesnt effect push rod travel . crazy thing fellas in 1976 it cost 200 bucks for a rebuild master kit all new parts and a hard earned 65 bucks for machine work
Well, I can't hear the valve tick. Does it have a bit of an exhaust leak? (joking) The 350 workhorse, improved greatly by fuel injection, electronic ig, and the 4 speed.
@@Hillbillygarage1215 I pulled one cap off and was satisfied. I really need to start showing that on video though. I always find myself in too much of a hurry when trying to get these engines together. And there’s things that I thought I recorded but when I edit the video I find out that I didn’t have the clip, or I find it a few months later after the video is already posted. Thank you for the input.
@BoneyardRevivals okay, makes me feel a bit better. I like your channel and the one man show aspect. If you get a minute how about hop on in to Hillbilly Garage and see what we are up to. Thanks
I hope you're going to pull the rod and main caps to at least take a look? maybe check it with plastigauge - not a bad idea and would only take an hour or less and could save you hundreds plus time..
86 to 95 are tbi heads the 993 heads are also to that engine , someone has swapped intake for a carb ..if you plan on building that engine at the very least mag the block
@aintskairtolskol9520 I don’t think this engine was ever touched. There was zero evidence of anyone being inside of it since it was assembled in Mexico in 86. Maging the block isn’t a bad idea but I feel confident that I’ve seen enough of these and know to look for the most common crack spots. I felt confident in what I saw and knew that I didn’t necessarily have to get it maged.
Although i personally didn't know what the 993 heads were original to they were on a 1995 gm Goodwrench target 350 forged crank 4bolt main 260hp crate motor it was in a 82 c15 GMC High Sierra factory 4spd th350 swapped GMC jimmy from Tennessee that id got ahold of years ago id had a rebuilt set of 991 heads and made the mistake of putting in new arp but factory style press in rocker arm studs and two of them got pulled out of the head and shattered 3 competition cams magnum pressed end pushrods like glass completely trashing them
They had gm performance replacement steel stamped rocker arm fulcrum and adjusting nuts, and Manley stainless steel street master valves and i ended up selling the heads for what the valves were worth a buddy of my younger brother wanted the new Manley valves
@@davide339 I’ve actually thought about that but then I don’t have a really good way to pull the engine forward or backwards. But maybe there’s something that I am not thinking about.
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They played mixie-matchie with 1 piece rear main seal blocks but with flat tappet cams (and standard rockers, not self-aligning type) back in the day. Lot of truck engines and the Goodwrench engines of the day were set up that way. There were even blocks cast for roller cam gear but never machined for that hardware. They just dropped flat tappet lifters into the (much deeper) roller lifter bores.
just ran into the same thing threaded centers for the web but flat tappet cam two threaded holes up by the cam for a retainer
2 bolt vs 4 bolt. That debate will go to the end of time😅
Ive always ended up with a bunch of 4 bolts for whatever reason. The only 2 Bolt out of 6 small Block 350s I own is the Budget Build. But yes the 2 vs 4 bolt will be argued till the end of time. I personally don’t care, long as it runs and makes cool noises it’s alright by me.
Id run either without worrying about it, but I've also blown up both versions so i disagree with people who try to convince me that you can't hurt a 4 bolt main, and i think i prefer the one piece rear main seal motors 2 or 4 bolt main they are balanced better but as i said I'd run any of them, although i won't power any 3/4 ton 2 or 4x4 with any 305's because I've destroyed 3 really good runners trying to pull around 3/4 ton trucks because i needed a motor and those were the deals available, and pretty much destroyed the bottom end on 3 h.o 305's with 601 and 416 casting heads i felt bad about that
Most of the 2 bolts main where in cars
Can you explain 2 bolts vs 4 bolts
@@BoneyardRevivals Hello, your videos are excellent. I greet you from VENEZUELA! How could you help me to buy some spare parts for a 1979 Malibu? I'm Armando. Where could I send you a message to show you the photos of my Malibu so I can ask you for help to buy some spare parts to get it working. Regards, Argenis Enrique.
check the transmission oil cooler in the radiator, rare but not impossible to leak ATF into the coolant. an intake leaking coolant usually puts the antifreeze IN the oil and less oil in the antifreeze.
That is an interesting thought. Thanks for the tip. I saw the issue from the radiator as we added water in a previous video and it would continuously push water out of the radiator. To me that says that combustion is making its way into the cooling system hence the blown head gasket. But maybe there were multiple issues like the oil cooler leaking into the radiator. Either way all the issues will be resolved when the engine goes into another vehicle. Thanks for commenting!
Not sure if you let the air out of the tires or not but that helps to lower the vehicle. Gives a couple inches of clearance which can make the difference. Great video ✊🏽
350 CHEVY!!!!! I LOVE IT!!!! OLD SCHOOL ALL THE WAY!!!!
Put a goodwrench 350 in my 86 K10, still going strong 12 years later!!!
7.6:1 actual compression ratio, low HP, low MPG...
Say a little trick when you have a cherry picker, maxed out, let some air out of the front tires. It has saved me in a pinch a timer to.
Good idea! Thanks!
I LOVE BUDGET 350 BUILDS!!!!
993 heads are great flowing heads. Both the original 993 heads and the Hecho en Mexico heads are good flowing smog heads. Goodwrench and Targetmaster used the mexican versions. This is normal to find on a crate engine
Water would drain from the pan first since oil floats above water.
haha i was saying the same.
@@dadatschool that’s true, I misspoke there but doesn’t it also depend on the density of the oil as well? Just because I had another engine that mixed coolant and oil and when I drained the pan the milk shake came first then the coolant which I why I said what I said here.
@@BoneyardRevivals No, density/viscosity won't make any difference, however, if an engine is run such that the oil pump picks up water and oil, it will combine them to turn them to milkshake color. My reply had to do with an engine that has sat for a time where the oil and water separate out or if there is not enough water for the pump to pick it up off the bottom of the pan. 👍
@@dadatschool Thanks for the info and correction. I appreciate it!
Density definitely makes a difference, but oil is always less dense than water, so it always floats. @@dadatschool
All Goodwrench 350s came out of Mexico. I think they are still are doing remans down there.
GREAT VIDEO!!!! A MUST WATCH!!!
On the two bolt vs four bolt mains, I was told by the best mechanic I ever knew that the only real need for a 4-bolt setup is in a blown motor that is expected to exceed 400 HP and turn very high revs. I'm a belt-and -suspenders type so I'd go with the 4-bolt if possible just for peace of mind. Btw, too much verbiage in your vids. Don't talk about it, be about it
@@RalphTempleton-vr6xs I understand what you mean by don’t talk about it be about but I promise you I am definitely about it. The reason I talk to much is to try to explain to less experienced people so they have a better understanding. I’d rather be yelled at for “talking too much” rather than leaving the less experienced guys without enough context.
But I will try to pay more attention, there is always room for improvement. Thanks for your input.
Also, since you brought it up, what areas in this video do you think I could improve? If it’s not too much to ask give me some time stamps from the video so I know what to look at.
You gotta clean the heck out of all those coolant passages. It looks to me like somebody at some point mixed old school green and orange coolant together. I had a 98 I LOVED. Had a shop service the truck and even though I caught him before he put too much green coolant in, that truck had issues from that moment on. I flushed it over and over but I had to put a water pump on it every 10 to 15 thousand miles. It filled the system with a silty floury sludge. I got to where i could put a water pump and thermostat on in about an hour.
Might not be your issue but that motor is from the "dexcool" era. Could be why the head gasket blew.
@@natelofties8533 When we pressure washed the block I pulled the drain plugs and sprayed through as many of the cooling passages as possible.
And I understand to well about the dexcool era. I got a 98 Buick Regal and had a bunch of issues with that. What a nightmare. Definitely a face palm moment for GM.
Great video
Cool video, when you don't want something there it is, but when you want it you can't find it 😂😂
@@joebourke1018 that’s the story of my life! 🤣 thanks for watching
Hope you do a big block Chevy 350 in the future.
@@greghansard357 Big block Chevy 350? There is no such thing.
@BoneyardRevivals Then why call a 350 a small block? We know it is, right? 😉
What’s the average goin rate in old junky vehicles in PA? Also those 86+ blocks are awesome for roller cams
@@randomguy1807 This truck was an actually a New York truck. As far as going rate I really don’t know, I’ve never been one to wheel and deal. I know how much stuff is worth on average and I hate low balling people.
ya mine came from factory already machine to take a roller set up , im not willing to spend a extra 2 grand to do what a great flat tappet can do also , the lifter pockets are a 1/4 inch deeper but doesnt effect push rod travel . crazy thing fellas in 1976 it cost 200 bucks for a rebuild master kit all new parts and a hard earned 65 bucks for machine work
My Mexico block had 882 heads on it
PLEASE KEEP US UPDATED ON YOUR SBC LOW BUCK PROJECT!!!
That was my first engine. I pulled out in 1980 easy pull
Oil could be trans cooler band on rad
Well, I can't hear the valve tick. Does it have a bit of an exhaust leak? (joking)
The 350 workhorse, improved greatly by fuel injection, electronic ig, and the 4 speed.
🤣
Does that sticker make it better?
Adds 50hp automatically 🤣
THANK YOU SO MUCH.
You are gonna check the bearings, right?
@@Hillbillygarage1215 I pulled one cap off and was satisfied. I really need to start showing that on video though. I always find myself in too much of a hurry when trying to get these engines together. And there’s things that I thought I recorded but when I edit the video I find out that I didn’t have the clip, or I find it a few months later after the video is already posted. Thank you for the input.
@BoneyardRevivals okay, makes me feel a bit better. I like your channel and the one man show aspect. If you get a minute how about hop on in to Hillbilly Garage and see what we are up to. Thanks
Will do bud! Thank you!
I hope you're going to pull the rod and main caps to at least take a look? maybe check it with plastigauge - not a bad idea and would only take an hour or less and could save you hundreds plus time..
I did look at them off camera and was super happy with what I saw. Hence why I just slapped the engine together
86 to 95 are tbi heads the 993 heads are also to that engine , someone has swapped intake for a carb ..if you plan on building that engine at the very least mag the block
@aintskairtolskol9520 I don’t think this engine was ever touched. There was zero evidence of anyone being inside of it since it was assembled in Mexico in 86.
Maging the block isn’t a bad idea but I feel confident that I’ve seen enough of these and know to look for the most common crack spots. I felt confident in what I saw and knew that I didn’t necessarily have to get it maged.
I was thinking 187 and 991 heads were tbi heads not the 993?!
@If I am not mistaken 187s were the 305s and the 191 and 193s where TBI heads. The 993s were a 70s smog head for 350s and 400s.
Although i personally didn't know what the 993 heads were original to they were on a 1995 gm Goodwrench target 350 forged crank 4bolt main 260hp crate motor it was in a 82 c15 GMC High Sierra factory 4spd th350 swapped GMC jimmy from Tennessee that id got ahold of years ago id had a rebuilt set of 991 heads and made the mistake of putting in new arp but factory style press in rocker arm studs and two of them got pulled out of the head and shattered 3 competition cams magnum pressed end pushrods like glass completely trashing them
They had gm performance replacement steel stamped rocker arm fulcrum and adjusting nuts, and Manley stainless steel street master valves and i ended up selling the heads for what the valves were worth a buddy of my younger brother wanted the new Manley valves
Oil floats water will come out first
If you cannot find stuff in yourself box, apparently sometime or another I was in there and misplaced every thing.
Why don’t you rig a chainfall from that big ol beam instead of wrestling with an engine hoist
@@davide339 I’ve actually thought about that but then I don’t have a really good way to pull the engine forward or backwards. But maybe there’s something that I am not thinking about.
New here but i like it
Water and coolant will never be above oil. It’s just not possible.
Shouldntve hacked that carb to pump line. That helps keeps your fuel from vaporizing.
I wouldn’t have but the line broke on the pump side, so it was already junk.
❤Taking your Car to BUBBA'S For Repairs? You Bring your Car here.. BUBBA'S have all satisfied customers.😂
Water heavier oil cooler broke inside radiator
Too much talk, not enough work. Let's get to work.
@@anthonycphillips2430 What?
bravoo
😂😂 i do same thing i loose shit all time i loose it befor i get out the store.
The amount of money I’ve spent on rebuying stuff is sickening… I don’t even want to know the number! 🤣
I prefer the 350 over the LS myself way easier and more torque.
In my opinion it’s arguably cheaper too
@@BoneyardRevivals Agree, way less money.
Particularly from trucks. High nickel content blocks, nitrided cranks and hd "pink" rods in some of them. Really tough stuff.
I will take all I can get for $200
A shame it was made in Mexico.