Love your work mate! Just rebuilt a 3.2 px1 and it’s a big job, but people like you make it easier. I primed the oil pump by refilling via the oil filter housing - squeezed a few litres through and put the rest in the top. Left the the cap off to watch for oil pumping and it worked fine. Very quick and easy but I’m NOT a mechanic!! I might have just got lucky so please DYOR :)
Useful! had a sudden problem when driving last year april, power loss, engine oil light, weird noises..had to get towed, but left the engine running (for powersteering), biggest mistake ever...engine locked up, and many parts had to be changed. Thanks for your awesome videos. Owning a T6 in Myanmar, a country where there is not much professional skill, I often have to do things myself...your videos are a great help.
I found it hard to find info on this. I just replaced the oil pump on a 3.2l px1 4WD (tricky but doable with the engine in) and here’s how I primed a standard pump replacement (Upgraded gear pumps don’t need priming, just don’t forget to block off that oil line with bolt) For standard pumps replacement: - attach pickup tube and feed line to pump first, hold it level and pour a little oil into the pump until it drips out the pickup. Give the sprocket a few turns each way. - Hold level and carefully while installing, and it will remain partially filled. - Reinstall oil pan, let seal dry, and fill with about 12L (don’t need 15L+ as some say) - Remove oil filter cap + filter and add oil until brimmed (only approx 300ml) then reinstall. - Wait a few hrs, then give it several short 1 second cranks (turn key fast and fuel pump/glow plugs can’t prime). - Start engine and allow to idle. Oil pressure light should disappear in seconds. Bring idle lightly up to 2000rpm to be sure she’s bananas. - Drop out the extra couple litres of oil and test drive I can write out the procedure for the whole job if anyone is stuck. Thanks again for sharing this stuff mate - was very helpful
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and great hands on video. Ford made a bad decision going with the vane type oil pump and had multi opportunities to upgrade to a geared pump. Cheers mate.
Good video. I’d only point out that they do a tool that you use to ensure that the pump is perfectly aligned with the sprockets to prevent excess chain wear. It only costs like £10. I did the job with the engine still in the car (Land Rover Defender) so it was a bit more difficult aligning without the tool. I wish my sump came off as easy as yours haha!
I think the first proper requirement to own a vehicle like this is for the owner to know the basics of taking the engine on and off the engine bay. A remarkable skill but not for any ordinary joe.
All other gear type oil pumps i have seen in other videos on youtube do not have the smaller oil drain tube re connected...they just remive completely and fit a bolt to block it off instead. What the differences? Between the 2 different styles of geared pumps. ?
I have to replace mine & I was just wondering with what you said at the end about having to prime the oil pump, if I put a geared oil pump in do I have to then prime it?
Great vid, looks like I have to change mine. How hard is it to do with the engine in? Also what is the best way to reprime oil pump as I purchased a new one from Ford (for a 2013 bt50) 👍
Hi there awesome video. A problem that I have is I can’t get a mechanical pump here in NZ I was wondering if you have a link to that website that you got yours
I've followed your videos on the PX series. Very educative and gives an idea of what goes on in the service bays. If you do ever own the new ranger V6 please do tutorial videos of that one too. 🛻🤝🏾
Thank you for your video. Is that for sure that ford have a new upgraded revision of oil pump after may 2013? Is that the same part number as original one (as I know 2.2 and 3.2 use the same oil pump)? My ford Ranger was manufactured in 2013, and I'm not sure about my oil pump. I gonna replace it in next 7500km.
It would seem as though you have a 4x2 version ranger. Otherwise it’s a bit trickier doing this on the 4x4 ranger due to the front diff and axle assembly. I believe its possible by lowering the diff/axle slightly to allow enough clearance for the sump. You will probably have to undo the steering rack and lower it to gain extra clearance too.
That's just what I did this friday and it works if you cut out the welds on the crossbeam and remove it the welds on the outside are easy to cut those on the inside not so had to grind them down.
No not at all. My ranger is a px1 and isn’t welded anyway. So mine has 4 bolts rather than welded. If yours is welded just grind it out and bolt it back up afterwards.
Love your work , I have read that you need to be sure the chain is aligned straight using the small amount of adjustment in the 4 oil pump bolt holes and i have seen some new gear driven oil pumps provide a tool to re postion the new pump , did you find this to be necessary ie was there excessive slots in the oil pump bolt holes to allow for this adjustment?
Many thanks for the great video. How difficult would it be to replace the oil pump, with the engine in situ? I Heard it requires the engine to be lifted, in order to gain the necessary access. Would you be able to elaborate on that, please?
Hello mate, great videos! Helped me out alot! I'm going to do a timing chain replacement. Just wondering if you would recommend replacing the oil pump and oil pump chain at the same time? Thanks, Josh
Good video, if you use a geared oil pump do you still have to do oil changes wihitn 10 minutes range or that is no longer a necesity just like any other vehicle?
Congrats for the video. I’m considering instal an oil pressure sensor to foresee the failure or pump wear. Have you gone to something like that? Any suggestions or advice?
@@abdautomotive yes! But my intention is to have a continuos reading of the pressure, and see if it starts to drop, so I can replace the pump before it breaks damaging the engine. Any ideias for something like that ? On Brazil is extremely costly to rebuild an engine like this.
I’ve been told when fitting the new geared oil pump a few things need to be done like a extra bolt put in a oil passage and something to do with a piece not going back on cause it’s not used on the upgrade can you confirm any of this please ?
Totally off subject, but do U do a ECU relearn with FORscan after U do your repairs at all, and if so can U post a video on how to do it? On my Navara I used to pull of the negative battery lead and run a smaller jumper cable from positive to isolated negative and leave it for a hour to drain all the power out of the capacitors.. but haven't been game to do it on the ranger..
Not easy to access while on the car at all.. lol.. I got excited until I seen the motor on the ground.. I just upgraded the cog style pump now.. good video anyways 👍🏼
Hi, I'm buying a 2014 3.2l supacab ranger with 230000km on the clock, what would be things to look out for (motorwise)? Also what would you suggest upgrading/replacing on the motor to give me optimal mileage?
at 230k your injectors are coming towards the end of their service life, i wouldn't push them past 300k , 250k is a optimum milage to replace them ,if money is tight go to 300k but no later. besides that get a EGR cable to keep the EGR valve shut & stop the build up in your intake, don't fit a catch can the oil will flush your intake for you , i think that preety much covers it.
Hello, I’ve a question. Is IT possible to change it without takeing off the engine or front axle? My ranger has 100 th km turns. Do you think that should I change it? Ranger 3,2 2013y. BR from Poland
Love your work mate! Just rebuilt a 3.2 px1 and it’s a big job, but people like you make it easier.
I primed the oil pump by refilling via the oil filter housing - squeezed a few litres through and put the rest in the top. Left the the cap off to watch for oil pumping and it worked fine. Very quick and easy but I’m NOT a mechanic!! I might have just got lucky so please DYOR :)
Useful! had a sudden problem when driving last year april, power loss, engine oil light, weird noises..had to get towed, but left the engine running (for powersteering), biggest mistake ever...engine locked up, and many parts had to be changed. Thanks for your awesome videos. Owning a T6 in Myanmar, a country where there is not much professional skill, I often have to do things myself...your videos are a great help.
When your Ranger was manufactured? And what was the odometer when it had happened?
Epic video . All the details you would need. Seems pretty easy to access in the vehicle as well .
You do the best videos dude, did my injectors following your advice... Your a life saver
You vlogs are awesome to the point with tips that are very handy to know, thanks for your effort together this out to us all👍👏👏👏
I found it hard to find info on this. I just replaced the oil pump on a 3.2l px1 4WD (tricky but doable with the engine in) and here’s how I primed a standard pump replacement
(Upgraded gear pumps don’t need priming, just don’t forget to block off that oil line with bolt)
For standard pumps replacement:
- attach pickup tube and feed line to pump first, hold it level and pour a little oil into the pump until it drips out the pickup. Give the sprocket a few turns each way.
- Hold level and carefully while installing, and it will remain partially filled.
- Reinstall oil pan, let seal dry, and fill with about 12L (don’t need 15L+ as some say)
- Remove oil filter cap + filter and add oil until brimmed (only approx 300ml) then reinstall.
- Wait a few hrs, then give it several short 1 second cranks (turn key fast and fuel pump/glow plugs can’t prime).
- Start engine and allow to idle. Oil pressure light should disappear in seconds. Bring idle lightly up to 2000rpm to be sure she’s bananas.
- Drop out the extra couple litres of oil and test drive
I can write out the procedure for the whole job if anyone is stuck. Thanks again for sharing this stuff mate - was very helpful
thanks for the info
thanks, for share your experience service of ford ranger
Awesome tutorial mate
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and great hands on video. Ford made a bad decision going with the vane type oil pump and had multi opportunities to upgrade to a geared pump. Cheers mate.
yeh i agree, the key is too keep your oil clean, from what i've heard they fail due to wear , oil mixed with EGR gasses gets dirty very quickly.
The videos very helpful thank you so much CHEERS 👏👍
Thanks to my brother for making it clear, I am finding a way to replace the oil pump.
Good video. I’d only point out that they do a tool that you use to ensure that the pump is perfectly aligned with the sprockets to prevent excess chain wear. It only costs like £10.
I did the job with the engine still in the car (Land Rover Defender) so it was a bit more difficult aligning without the tool.
I wish my sump came off as easy as yours haha!
I think the first proper requirement to own a vehicle like this is for the owner to know the basics of taking the engine on and off the engine bay. A remarkable skill but not for any ordinary joe.
Genial amigo muchísimas gracias
Much appreciated mate!!!
Thank you so much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
All other gear type oil pumps i have seen in other videos on youtube do not have the smaller oil drain tube re connected...they just remive completely and fit a bolt to block it off instead.
What the differences? Between the 2 different styles of geared pumps. ?
I have to replace mine & I was just wondering with what you said at the end about having to prime the oil pump, if I put a geared oil pump in do I have to then prime it?
Great vid, looks like I have to change mine. How hard is it to do with the engine in?
Also what is the best way to reprime oil pump as I purchased a new one from Ford (for a 2013 bt50) 👍
Thank you!!!!
Do you crank the motor over for oil pump prime before starting ?
Hi there awesome video. A problem that I have is I can’t get a mechanical pump here in NZ I was wondering if you have a link to that website that you got yours
thank you
I've followed your videos on the PX series. Very educative and gives an idea of what goes on in the service bays.
If you do ever own the new ranger V6 please do tutorial videos of that one too. 🛻🤝🏾
Thank you for your video. Is that for sure that ford have a new upgraded revision of oil pump after may 2013? Is that the same part number as original one (as I know 2.2 and 3.2 use the same oil pump)? My ford Ranger was manufactured in 2013, and I'm not sure about my oil pump. I gonna replace it in next 7500km.
How did ford fix this vane problem if they changed it AGIAN with another vane oil pump ?
So what’s the go with the oil service??? i’ve heard people say that leaving your sump empty for more then 10 minutes will kill ur engine?
It would seem as though you have a 4x2 version ranger. Otherwise it’s a bit trickier doing this on the 4x4 ranger due to the front diff and axle assembly. I believe its possible by lowering the diff/axle slightly to allow enough clearance for the sump. You will probably have to undo the steering rack and lower it to gain extra clearance too.
That's just what I did this friday and it works if you cut out the welds on the crossbeam and remove it the welds on the outside are easy to cut those on the inside not so had to grind them down.
Does the cut affect the structural integrity of anything?
No not at all. My ranger is a px1 and isn’t welded anyway. So mine has 4 bolts rather than welded. If yours is welded just grind it out and bolt it back up afterwards.
What's the torque settings for the oil pump & pick up line
Love your work , I have read that you need to be sure the chain is aligned straight using the small amount of adjustment in the 4 oil pump bolt holes and i have seen some new gear driven oil pumps provide a tool to re postion the new pump , did you find this to be necessary ie was there excessive slots in the oil pump bolt holes to allow for this adjustment?
there was not much play when all the bolts were in, i guess for perfection an alignment tool would be handy.
does anyone have the link for the oil pump ?
Many thanks for the great video. How difficult would it be to replace the oil pump, with the engine in situ? I Heard it requires the engine to be lifted, in order to gain the necessary access. Would you be able to elaborate on that, please?
on a 4x4 you have to remove a few things associated with the front Diff, so yes it is a bit harder , a 2x4 it's preety easy, no front diff
As eh owner of a 2012 Ranger I find this interesting/disturbing. Looks easy with the motor out although i suspect a pain in situ.
Thanks for all your clips very helpful. I have a question 2017 ranger 3.2 150K do you think better to remove engine to do oil pump, EGR replacement?
No way. Leave the engine in the car for those tasks
Hello mate, great videos! Helped me out alot! I'm going to do a timing chain replacement. Just wondering if you would recommend replacing the oil pump and oil pump chain at the same time?
Thanks, Josh
i'm still on the original chain & pump @ 350k
Good video, if you use a geared oil pump do you still have to do oil changes wihitn 10 minutes range or that is no longer a necesity just like any other vehicle?
no need for 10 minute changes
Top!
Congrats for the video.
I’m considering instal an oil pressure sensor to foresee the failure or pump wear. Have you gone to something like that?
Any suggestions or advice?
your oil light will come on if it fails , it will give you a warning
@@abdautomotive yes!
But my intention is to have a continuos reading of the pressure, and see if it starts to drop, so I can replace the pump before it breaks damaging the engine.
Any ideias for something like that ?
On Brazil is extremely costly to rebuild an engine like this.
I’ve been told when fitting the new geared oil pump a few things need to be done like a extra bolt put in a oil passage and something to do with a piece not going back on cause it’s not used on the upgrade can you confirm any of this please ?
yes that would be the banjo bolt & oil line at 4:02 , this is removed for the gear type pump & banjo bolt replaced with a normal bolt.
So that alignment tool the other guy had is not that important then?
Totally off subject, but do U do a ECU relearn with FORscan after U do your repairs at all, and if so can U post a video on how to do it? On my Navara I used to pull of the negative battery lead and run a smaller jumper cable from positive to isolated negative and leave it for a hour to drain all the power out of the capacitors.. but haven't been game to do it on the ranger..
no ecu relearn, i usually just disconnect the battery when working on electrical parts
Not easy to access while on the car at all.. lol.. I got excited until I seen the motor on the ground.. I just upgraded the cog style pump now.. good video anyways 👍🏼
What do you think about the after market oil catch can upgrade?
i ended up removing mine completely , it attracted too much dust , the oil it caught was very minimal, about 100ml over 50 000kms
Hi, I'm buying a 2014 3.2l supacab ranger with 230000km on the clock, what would be things to look out for (motorwise)? Also what would you suggest upgrading/replacing on the motor to give me optimal mileage?
Thank you again for all your videos and professional advise
at 230k your injectors are coming towards the end of their service life, i wouldn't push them past 300k , 250k is a optimum milage to replace them ,if money is tight go to 300k but no later. besides that get a EGR cable to keep the EGR valve shut & stop the build up in your intake, don't fit a catch can the oil will flush your intake for you , i think that preety much covers it.
@@abdautomotive thank you very much for your response and will definitely follow your advise, thank you once again and be safe
Hello, I’ve a question. Is IT possible to change it without takeing off the engine or front axle? My ranger has 100 th km turns. Do you think that should I change it? Ranger 3,2 2013y. BR from Poland
personally i wouldn't, keep the oil changes regular , if it does fail you will get a warning light come up, change it then
Well if it fails you would be looking at a very expensive repair if you don’t switch the engine off in time.
Hey man. Any part number for the updated oil pump? Cheers
not sure just make sure it's the gear type if your buying one
Anyone know if the 10minute limit applies to the 2.2 litre engine ?
yes they still run a variable vain pump
Thanks legend. Midway thru replacement ATM letting th silicone skin-up.
Thx for the vid
@@abdautomotive
500k on my 2.2 peugeot boxer need to change it
No need align tool or ......
you can get a alignment tool but it's not a necessity.
Dude, we don't need a 1 minute opening cinematic.
lol no idea why i put that in
@@abdautomotive LOL, I had a wee too many drinks when I wrote that. You took my snide comment like a champ. My sincere apologies for being rude.
thanks, for share your experience service of ford ranger